YSR 12-10

Everywear Tails
Design by lila_

PIECES
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15

Print Check
Front Left
Front Side Left
Back Side
Back
Under Collar
Upper Collar
Collar Band
Front Right
Bias Facing
Front Right Interlining
Front Side Right Interlining
Front Facing
Front Side Lining
Back Side Lining
Back Lining

1x
1x
2x
2x
2x
2x
2x
1x
1x
1x
1x
2x
2x
2x
2x

Fabric
Fabric
Fabric
Fabric
Fabric
Fabric
Fabric
Fabric
Fabric
Lining
Lining
Fabric
Lining
Lining
Lining

35" / 90cm Interfacing Sizes 34-44

What you need:

55" / 140cm

Fabric

Sizes 34-44

55" / 140cm Lining Sizes 34-44

Centimeters
SIZE
FABRIC
140 cm
LINING
140 cm
INT ERFACING
90 cm

34 36 38 40
Meter
2

42
2

1.4

1.4

1.45

1.45

44

Inches
SIZE
FABRIC
55.1 "
LINING
55.1 "
INTERFACING
35.4 "

10 12
Yards

14

2 1/5

2 1/5

1 1/2

1 1/2

1 3/5

1 3/5

16

Please read these instructions carefully before you start working. It's always a
good idea to sew a test garment first and try it on before starting the actual
Important:whenprintingyourpattern,makesurethatyouhavethefunctionFitto
pageswitchedoffinyourPDFreadersoftware.Alwaysprintat100%.Afterprinting,
checkthe5by5testsquareoneachpatternwithatapemeasuretomakesurethat
thedimensionsarecorrect.

YSR 12-10
Seamallowancesareincludedasindicatedonthepattern:
Dividingseamsinfrontandback=1cm(3/8")
Sideseamsandcenterbackseam=1,5cm(5/8")
Hem=4cm(11/2")
Allotherseams:1cm(3/8")
INTERFACING

Pieces 1, 2, 5, 6, 7,10
arecompletelycoveredwithInterfacing.
InPieces 3, 4, 12, 13, 14, 15dottedlinesmarktheInterfacingpatternpieces.Trace
Interfacingpatternsbyfollowingthesedottedlines.
Fuseinterfacingtowrongsideoffabricasindicatedonthepattern,following
manufacturer'sinstructions.
Tostabilizeneckholeandarmholeedges,addstripsofinterfacingalongtheseedges.
Useabiasstrip(notastableone!)oflightweightfusibleinterfacingabout1/3inch
wide.Donotstretchedgeswhilefusing
DIVIDING SEAMS IN FRONT AND BACK
Pieces 1 + 10:
Staystitchinseamallowancestoreinforcethecorner.
Clipseamallowanceclosetocornerofthatstitchingline.
Pin Front Left (1) and Front Side Left (2)withrightsidestogethermatchingnotches.
Stitchpreciceslyuptothecorner(stitchwiththestay-stitchedpieceuppermost,asthis
willmakesewingeasier).Keeptheneedledownatthecorner,liftthepresserfoot,
pivotthepiecesandstitchtherestofthelinefromthecornertotheedge.Pressseam
StitchFront Right Interlining (10)andFront Side Right Interlining (11)togetherin
thesameway.
WithrightsidestogetherpinBack (4)andBack Side (3)bymatchingnotches.Stitch
andpressopen.
WithrightsidestogetherpinBack (4)piecesatcenterbackendingatnotchforthe
slit.Stitchandpressseamopen.
RIGHT FRONT DRAPING
Front Right (8):Pinpleatsatfrontedgeasindicatedinthepattern,payingattentionto
orderandorientationofpleats!
PinpleatedpiecetoFrontRightInterlining(10)bymatchingedges.Drapepleated
pieceonFrontInterlining,smootheningthefabricoverinterliningtoachieveanicefall
ofthefolds.Dependingonyourfabricyoumighthavetoadjustthefolds.If,for
example,youhaveaverysoftfabricthatstretchesalotdiagonally,youmightneed
reducethetipsofthefoldsalittlebit.

Ithelpsalottohaveadressformtodrapethefoldson.Onceyourdrapinglooks
good,bastepleatedpiecetoInterliningattheedgesandcontinuetoworkwithitlikea
singlelayeroffabric.

COLLAR
PinoneCollar Band (7)toeach Under Collar (5)andUpper Collar (6),matching
notches.Stitch,endingatseamallowance(seearrow),donotstitchallthewayupto
Pressseamsopen,clipseamallowanceswherenecessary.
Pineachupperandundercollartogetheratcenterbackwithrightsidestogether.
Stitchandpressseamopen.
Turninseamallowancesofremainingcollarbandsection.Press.
PinUpperCollartoUnderCollaratouteredgewithrightsidestogether,stitch.
Trimedgesofoutercollaredgeandcutcornerdiagonally,clipwherenecessary
Turncollartorightsideandpressedge.
FITTING
Pinsideseamswithrightsidestogether,matchingnotches,baste.
Pinbackcollarwithrightsidestogethertofrontneckholes,matchingnotches,baste.
Trywaistcoaton.
Checkdrapingandadjustpleatsifnecessary.
Aftertryingon,takebastedcollaroffagain.
SIDESEAM AND HEM
Pinsideseamswithrightsidestogether,matchingnotches.Stitchandpressseam
Presshemup,easinginfullnessifnecessary.Pressonlyuptotheseamcornersin
FACING AND LINING
Withrightsidestogetherpin Front Facing (12)and Front Side Lining (13)by
matchingnotches.Stitchandpresstowardside.
Back Lining (15): Staystitchinseamallowancestoreinforcethecorneratslitin
centerback.
Laterseamallowancewillbeclippedclosetothatstitchingline.
WithrightsidestogetherpinBack Lining (15) andBack Side Lining (14)by
matchingnotches.Stitchandpressopen.
WithrightsidestogetherpinBack Linings (15)atcenterbackendingatnotchforthe
slit.Stitchandpressseamandslitopen
Withrightsidestogetherpinsideseamsbymatchingnotches.Stitchandpressopen.
NECKHOLE, COLLAR, FRONT EDGE AND HEM
PinCollarandFront Piecesrightsidestogetherattheneckline,bastematching
PlaceFront Facings and Liningpreciselyonwaistcoat,withrightsidestogether.
PinFrontNeckhole,frontedgeandseamwithrightsidestogether,insertingthecollar
intheprocess.Stitch,stoppingexactlyattheCollarStand(seearrowinpattern).

Clipseamallowancesatfrontneckholeandfrontfacingdiagonallyuptothecollar

Trimfrontneckholeuptocollarandfrontedgeandturnpiecetorightside.
Pressfrontedgeandfrontneckhole.
Makeablindstitchhem.
FRONT ARMHOLE AND BACK NECKHOLE
WithwrongsidestogetherpinWaistcoatandLiningatfrontarmholeandcontinuingat
backneckhole,baste.
WithwrongsidestogetherfoldBias facing (9)alongrollline.Pinrawedgestogether
andpresslightly.
Pinfacingtoupperbackandfrontarmholeedges,stitchandtrim.
Turnfacingtoinside,press.Stitchclosetoouteredge.
FINISH COLLAR
WithrightsidestogetherpinCollar BandofUnder Collartoremainingneckholeof
frontandfrontfacing.Stitchpreciselyfromclippedseamallowance(arrowinpattern)
uptofrontarmhole.

Pressseamtowardcollarband.
Pinremainingpressededgeofcollarbandoverseam
Edgestitchcollarbandasshownonthephoto.

FINISH
PressLining:Atthehem,pressafoldintheliningthatiscreatedbytheadditional
lengthoffabric.
Turninseamallowanceonslitedgesoflining1,5cm(5/8")andpress.Clipseam
allowancetowardsedge.Alsoturninupperseamallowance1,5cm(5/8")andpress.
Pinpressededgestoslitfacings,slipstitch.
CLOSURE
Fastenthewaistcoatwithsnapsbecauseofthemultiplelayersoffabricatrightfront
Usemarkingsinfrontpatternsasguideforsnaps.
Sewtheballontheundersideoftheoverlap.Sewthesocketontheuppersideofleft
Stitchthroughalllayers.
Makedecorativehandstitchestofastenthesnaporcoverthestitcheswithdecorative
fakebuttonsontheoverlap.
Makeonebuttonholeinleftfrontasindicatedinthepattern.
Pinthewaistcoatclosedandmarkthepositionforunderbuttonatrightfront.Sewaflat
buttonontheundersideofrightfront.
BOW
Cutouttwostripsoffabrictothefollowingmeasurements
Bow-8"x3.5",Knot-3"x3"
Foldthebowstripinhalflengthways,stitchrightsidesoflongedgestogetherwitha
0.5"seamallowance.Trimseams,turnrightsideout.Positiontheseamtothecentre
oftheundersideandpress.
Foldintheedgestothecentreofthebow.overlap0.5".
Handbasteafewlongstitchesalongthiscentrelinethroughallthicknesses,leaving
somethreadlooseeitherend,thenpullthethreadtogatherthefabrictogetherabit,
andstitchagainbutthistimeabittightertoholdthegathersinplace.
Foldtheknotstripinhalf,stitchrightsidesoflongedgestogetherwitha0.5"seam
allowance.

Trimseamsandturnrightsideout.Positiontheseamtothecenteroftheunderside
andpress,thenarrangetheknotaroundthegatheredmiddleofthebowandstitchin
place,catchinginsomeofthebowfabric.
Handstitchthebowtocenterbackofthewaistcoatasshowninthephoto.

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