GARDEN PLANS
Cottage Garden
CAPTURE THE OLD-FASHIONED CHARM OF AN
ENGLISH COTTAGE GARDEN.
This border planting is lush, colorful, and full of familiar favorites, such as hollyhocks,
roses, daisies, and peonies. In true cottage-garden style, it mixes perennials, shrubs,
and bulbs. One section of the garden hugs the houses foundation, and a rosecovered arbor leads to the side yard. If you place this garden in a corner where there
is no need for a walk-through arbor, you may eliminate the arbor and flagstone path
and, in their place, plant another Annabelle hydrangea or a Miss Kim lilac. Plant this
garden where it receives at least six hours of sun daily.
Copyright Meredith Corporation
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Cottage Garden
PLANT LIST
A White Fringe Tree (Chionanthus virginicus) (1)
Zones 4-9. Small, slow-growing tree or large shrub. Fragrant white
blooms in spring, deep blue fruits, yellow fall color. 12-20 tall and wide.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
B Annabelle Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens
Annabelle) (1)
Zones 3-9. A shrub with huge, rounded flower heads that last through
the summer. Flowers start out white and mature to green. 4 tall and wide.
Donald Wyman Lilac (Syringa x prestoniae Donald Wyman)
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Zones 3-7. A shrub with reddish purple blooms in spring. 8-10 tall and
wide.
Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia)
Zones 3-9. A shrub with spikes of fragrant white flowers in summer. 4-6
tall and wide.
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Cottage Garden
PLANT LIST CONTINUED
C Mockorange (Philadelphus Snowgoose, Belle Etoile or
similar variety) (1)
Zones 4-8. A shrub with exceptionally fragrant, white blossoms in spring.
5-6 tall and wide.
J Woods Pink Aster (Aster novi-belgii Woods Pink) (3)
Zones 4-8. Clear pink flowers in fall. 12" tall.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Ornamental Onion (Allium senescens glaucum)
Diana Rose-of-Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus Diana)
Zones 3-7. Pink globes on 12" stalks, mid- to late summer. Twisted bluegreen foliage. 6"-12" tall.
Zones 5-8. A shrub with large white flowers from July through
September. 8-10 tall, 6-8 wide.
K Serbian Bellflower (Campanula poscharskyana) (8)
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Zones 3-9. Violet-blue star-like flowers in spring. 6" tall.
D Golden Showers Climbing Rose (Rosa Golden
Showers) (2)
Zones 5-9. Fragrant, ruffled yellow roses on long canes. Needs a trellis
or other support. Climbs up to 8 feet.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Ballerina Geranium (Geranium cinereum Ballerina)
Zones 5-7. Pale pink flowers with purple veins, deeply lobed leaves.
6" tall.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
New Dawn Climbing Rose (Rosa New Dawn)
L Snow-in-Summer (Cerastium tomentosum) (6)
Zones 5-9. Creamy roses blushed with pink. Blooms repeat from June to
frost. Needs a trellis or other support. Climbs up to 12 feet.
Zones 2-7. Wooly gray foliage, white flowers in early summer. 6" tall.
E Hunter Rose (Rosa Hunter) (1)
Zones 3-8. A hardy hybrid rugosa rose. Bright red flowers, shiny foliage.
Disease resistant. 5 tall and wide.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Carefree Delight Rose (Rosa Carefree Delight)
Zones 4-9. A shrub rose with single pink blossoms. Almost continuous
bloom through summer. Disease resistant. 3 tall, 5 wide.
F White Fairy Rose (Rosa White Fairy) (1)
Zones 4-9. Tiny white blossoms in generous clusters. Almost continuous
bloom through summer. 3 tall and wide.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Fringed Rock Cress (Arabis blepharophylla Spring Charm)
Zones 4-7. Soft rose flowers in early spring. 6"-8" tall.
M Mountain Mist Pinks (Dianthus Mountain Mist) (3)
Zones 3-8. Single pink blooms in spring, blue-green foliage. 12" tall.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Zestful Fernleaf Bleeding Heart (Dicentra Zestful)
Zones 3-9. Rose-pink flowers, blue-green foliage. 16" tall.
N Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea Bright Star) (3)
Zones 3-9. Rose-red flowers with domed centers. 30" tall.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Flower Carpet Rose (Rosa Flower Carpet)
Zones 5-9. Compact shrub rose with pink flowers. Disease-resistant.
3 tall and wide.
G Anthea Yarrow (Achillea Anthea) (1)
Zones 4-8. Flat-topped clusters of tiny butter-yellow flowers. Sturdy
stems. 18"-20" tall.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria Kelwayi)
Burgundy Blanket Flower (Gaillardia x grandiflora
Burgundy)
Zones 3-9. Rich wine red flowers. 24"-30" tall.
O Dwarf Iris (Iris Banbury Ruffles or similar variety) (1)
Zones 3-9. Blue flowers in May, fans of foliage. 15" tall.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Bridget Bloom Heucherella (x Heucherella alba Bridget
Bloom)
Zones 3-7. Bright yellow daisies in summer, ferny foliage. 24" tall.
Zones 3-7. Sprays of tiny pink flowers over silver-green foliage. Two
months of bloom in spring. 18" tall.
H Double Hollyhocks (Alcea rosea Chaters Double Hybrids
or similar variety) (5)
P Becky Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum x superbum
Becky) (1)
Zones 3-7. Ruffled flowers in a mix of colors on regal spires. 6 tall.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Culvers Root (Veronicastrum virginicum Album)
Zones 4-8. White flower spikes in late summer. 4-5 tall.
I Columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris, mixed colors) (4)
Zones 3-8. Nodding, spurred flowers in spring. 18"-24" tall.
Zones 4-9. Sturdy, classic white daisy. Blooms for up to 8 weeks in
summer. 36" tall.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Mary Todd Daylily (Hemerocallis Mary Todd or similar
variety)
Zones 3-9. Large golden flowers in summer, arching foliage. 36" tall.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Q Perennial Flax (Linum perenne) (3)
Balloon Flower (Platycodon grandiflorus Mariesii)
Zones 5-8. Profusion of blue flowers through most of summer. Delicate
foliage. 18" tall.
Zones 3-7. A dwarf form. Violet-blue star-shaped flowers in summer.
18"-24" tall.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Moonbeam Coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata Moonbeam)
Zones 5-9. Small, pale yellow daisies over fine-textured foliage. Blooms
all summer. 18"-24" tall.
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PLANT LIST CONTINUED
Cottage Garden
R Walkers Low Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii Walkers
Low) (5)
Zones 4-8. Short spikes of lavender-blue flowers through most of the
summer. Fragrant gray-green foliage. 10" tall.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Silver Mound Artemisia (Artemisia schmidtiana Silver
Mound or Nana)
Zones 3-7. Ferny silver foliage, mounded shape. 12" tall.
S Monsieur Jules Elie Peony (Paeonia Monsieur Jules
Elie) (1)
Zones 3-7. Large, fragrant, silvery pink flowers in spring. Bushy plant.
36" tall.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Honorine Jobert Japanese Anemone (Anemone x hybrida
Honorine Jobert)
Zones 5-7. Simple white flowers sway on wiry stems in fall. 48" tall.
T Eva Cullum Summer Phlox (Phlox paniculata Eva
Cullum) (3)
Zones 4-8. Dense clusters of clear pink florets in summer. 30" tall.
A LT E R N AT I V E P L A N T
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida Goldsturm)
Zones 3-8. Golden daisies with dark centers, late summer. 24" tall.
OPTIONAL PLANTS
Mixed Dutch Crocus (Crocus vernus) (30)
Zones 4-8. Goblet-shaped flowers in early spring. Colors include
purple, yellow, white. 4"-6" tall. Plant bulbs in groups of five.
Pink Impression Darwin Hybrid Tulip (Tulipa Pink
Impression or similar variety) (20)
Zones 3-8. Large pink flowers in mid-spring. Sturdy. 24" tall. Plant bulbs
in groups of five.
Trumpet Daffodil (Narcissus King Alfred, Golden
*Harvest,
or similar variety) (15)
Zones 3-7. Classic yellow trumpets in early spring. 16" tall. Plant bulbs in
groups of three.
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I N S TA L L I N G YO U R P R E - D E S I G N E D G A R D E N
Before You Begin. Preparation is the key to creating a garden that will
offer a lifetime of pleasure. Before you head to the nursery or lift a spade,
take the time to review all garden plan materials. Ask yourself the following questions:
Do I have a suitable location for this plan? The layout diagram shows
the dimensions for the plan as designed. In general, you can enlarge or
reduce the size of the garden by adding or eliminating plants, although
the character of the garden may change if you alter the size dramatically.
Does my yard offer the right conditions? Check the plant list carefully
to see whether the plan will do best in full sun, partial shade, or full
shade. Also make sure that the plants are suited to your USDA
Growing Zone. (In many cases, the alternative plants list includes varieties that will grow in other zones.)
Does my soil need improvement? Most plants will survive in a variety
of soil conditions, but well-drained, moist (but not soaked) soil is generally best. To test your soil, wet it thoroughly with a hose, wait 24 hours,
then squeeze a clump in your hand. If the soil forms a ball that holds
together, but breaks up easily when you poke it with your finger, your
soil is ideal. If the soil won't hold its shape when squeezed, it is probably
too sandy. If the clump doesn't break up easily, the soil may be too clay.
In either case, you can improve your soil by mixing in organic matter
like compost or peat moss.
Is my soil's pH and fertility okay? Check at your local garden store for
a soil test kit, or inquire about testing at a local county extension service
office. Follow the recommendations that come with your test results if
you need to correct the soil's pH (how acid or alkaline the soil is) or
fertility.
Creating the Bed. To lay out your bed, use a garden hose to mark the
edges. When you are satisfied with the layout, use striping paint (available
at many home centers) to mark the outline. (Or, sprinkle flour along the
hose for a more temporary mark.). Using a sharp spade, dig along the
marked line to set the edge of your bed.
If the garden location is currently covered with lawn, you have a couple of
options. For smaller areas, you can strip the sod using a straight-edged
shovel. To make this easier, wet the area thoroughly, then use the shovel to
cut the lawn into strips that are the width of the shovel and about three
feet long. (Expert tip: Sharpen the edge of the shovel frequently with a
file.) Use the shovel to pry up and roll back the strips of sod. Once the
sod is removed, you can loosen the underlying soil with a shovel or a
power tiller.
For larger areas covered by lawn, consider using a heavy-duty garden
tiller to grind the sod into the underlying soil. This has the twin benefits of
adding organic matter to the soil and eliminating the need to discard or
compost sod.
Regardless of how you are preparing your bed, be sure to use this opportunity to mix in organic matter (such as compost, peat moss, or rotted
manure) and loosen the soil at least 6 inches deep, or even 8 to 12 inches
if you can. Don't mix in fertilizer unless your soil test shows a need; in general, excessive amounts of fertilizer will do more harm than good.
After your bed is prepared, water it thoroughly and wait a week. This will
allow some weed seeds to germinate. Remove these seedlings or dig
them back into the soil. If you choose to use chemicals to kill the weeds,
follow the instructions to the letter, including the time to wait after application before planting.
Edging. Most beds are easier to maintain if they have an edging that
keeps surrounding grass or vegetation from invading. Choose plastic,
metal, stone, or brick -- whatever you prefer. If you have lawn around your
bed, consider also including a mowing strip, a 6- to 12-inch-wide swath of
masonry or stone set even with the surrounding soil.
Planting. Now comes the fun part! If you have all of your plants on
hand, keep them in their pots and set them out on the planting bed. This
will give you a preview of how the bed will look and allow you to make
adjustments. Use the tags that come with the plants to ensure that the
spacing is correct. Don't worry that the bed looks sparse; the young
plants need room to grow.
When you're satisfied with the arrangement, plant your garden from
largest to smallest container (usually trees first, then shrubs, perennials,
and finally annuals). Each plant type does best with a specific planting
method:
Trees. Dig a hole that is slightly larger than the pot or root ball and
deep enough so the top of the root ball or pot is slightly higher than the
surrounding soil. For potted trees, remove the tree from the pot, loosen
the soil slightly around the roots, then place the tree into the planting
hole. For balled-and-burlapped trees, loosen the burlap after the tree is
in the hole, cutting away as much of the burlap as possible. When the
tree is in place and straight, fill the hole one-third with soil, tamp firmly
to make good contact between roots and soil, then water. Repeat twice
more until the hole is filled. Make a shallow collar of soil around the
hole to catch water and hold it near the root zone. Water the tree thoroughly by letting a hose run slowly for 30 minutes.
Shrubs. Plant shrubs in a hole that's about twice the diameter of the
root ball. The top of the root ball should be slightly above the surrounding soil level. Backfill with garden soil, tamping firmly to ensure a contact between soil and roots. Water immediately by slowly running a
hose at the shrub's base for about 20 minutes.
Perennials and Annuals. Set these plants in soil at the same level they
were growing in the pot. Firm the soil around each plant with your
hands, then water thoroughly.
Mulching. As you place each plant, it's a good idea to add mulch to
conserve moisture, cool the roots of plants, and protect the soil from
washing away in the rain. Organic mulches like shredded bark will require
periodic additions as the mulch decays. Mulches like crushed stone are
more permanent, but may not offer the character you prefer.
Aftercare. The first season of growth is the most critical for your garden. A good guideline is to water thoroughly every other day for the first
two weeks, then twice weekly for the remainder of the first season. The
following year, you can let nature take its course, supplementing dry periods with deep watering.
You should also be diligent about weeding your bed during the first year.
As the plants mature and fill in, there will be fewer opportunities for weeds
to gain a foothold. A thick layer of mulch will also help keep weeds in
check.
Ongoing Maintenance. Most plants will thrive with only minimal care.
Apply a general fertilizer according to package directions in the spring
after growth has started. If you need to prune trees or shrubs to maintain
their shape or size, do it in late winter before growth has started. The
exception to this general rule is spring-flowering shrubs like lilacs that
should be pruned immediately after flowering.
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