1

FBM15105
Brand Buying
&
Promotion
PART A:

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Pg 6

1. Product Sector & Size of Total

Market

Pg 14

2. Size of Area, Location & Ambience

Pg 22

3. Cross Section of Brands

& Options

Pg 28

4. Pricing Architecture of Brands

Pg 30

5. Pricing Policy of Brands

Pg 34

6. Comparative Chart of Brands

Pg 40

7. Psychographic Profile

Pg 42

8. Brand Identity Comparisons

Pg 80-5

9. Evaluation & Boston Matrix

Pg 86

11. Brand Proposal & Analysis

Pg 90

Mini Projects A, B, C and D

Individual 1,500 Word Comparative Report

MINI PROJECTS:
Mini Projects A, B, C and D
Linn van Leeuwen
Ravensbourne
BA (Hons) Fashion Buying and Brand Management
Carla Frith
2015-2016

PART A - INDIVIDUAL
COMPARATIVE REPORT

PRODUCT SECTOR &

SIZE OF TOTAL MARKET
Key Points From Office for National Statistics Retail Sales:
March 2016 (Released April 2016)
Compared to February 2016:

Quantity bought in the

retail industry
decreased by

- 1.3%

In March 2016:

AVG retail prices fell by

Online sales increased by

- 3.0%

+ 8.9%

Departmen Store Retailing UK, April 2016 (Mintel Academic)

2014

2015

15.2bn
GBP

15.4bn
GBP
1%
Growth

According to the Mintel report, department stores sales grew but conveyed a more slow
growth of just 1% in 2015. This was ultimately the worst performance so far since the 2011
recession. However, it is estimated that there will be a significant growth in the future.

Own-Brands Are Main Draw

Interest in Smart Fitting Rooms (Sorted) by Generation

Consumers who agree that improved

own-brands would encourage more
department store shopping, by age and
gender (Mintel 2016)

24%
20%

Not only have

Millennials grown
up in the digital age,
they also show more
interest in
innovation in terms
of technological
development.
Therefore, this survey
claims that
department stores
need to develop a
technological
expereince that can
enhance and also
help consumers with
day to day, common
issues such as fitting.

31%
Millennials

22%
All

1,492 Internet users aged 16+ surveyed who have purchased

from or browsed department stores in the last 6 months
while the remaining 47% are not interested in smart fitting
rooms

Department Store Retailing At A Glance, April 2016

(Mintel Academic)

All

Females aged 16-24

Leading Retailers Share of All Convenience Store Sales (2015)

3.9% Others

Types of Delivery Shoppers are Willing to Pay More For

25% Same
Delivery

1,492 Internet users

aged 16+ surveyed
who have purchased
from or browsed
department stores in
the last 6 months

13% Weekend
Delivery

30.1% M&S
(non-food)

9.3% Next 5
As e-commerce is
becoming more
popular.
Millennials (1635) have adapted
to the concept of
Instantlyas Millennials grew up
with
technological
existance and
development. Due
to this instant
demand,
department stores
have to exceed
customers
demand.

This graph to the left

indicates key players
within department stores.
Many of these are
extremely well known and
have distinct
characteristics. Marks &
Spencer being the most
leading retailer for sales,
and John Lewis coming
in second. Debenhams is
placed as the third
leading retailer to make
most sales. This graph
indicates a trend where
more expensive retailers
generate less sales.

6.1% Harrods

6.4% House of
Fraser

15.8%
Debenhams
28.3% John Lewis

Executive Summary: Department Stores UK, April 2016

(Mintel Academic)

Leading Department Stores, Sales Per SQ M (2015)

Attitude Towards and Usage of Selected Brands (November & December 2015)

Harrods - 8,280

There are multiple

ways success can be
measured. Harrods
for example is
successful due to
tourism that has
helped boost their
sales.

John Lewis - 7,560

Selfridges (Retail) - 5,765
M&S (Non food) - 3,888
House of Fraser - 3,013

80
70

Harrods

60

John Lewis

50

Selfridges

40

Debenhams - 2,350

30

10,000

Debenhams

20

Marks &
Spencer

House of
Fraser

10

0
10

0
Space Allocation in Leading Department Stores (January 2016)

20

30

40

50

60

Trust (%)
This graph on the right illustrates the different brand perceptions. Marks & Spencers
remain one of the most truster brand however they struggle on differentiation. Whereas
Harrods has more differentiation but less consumer trust. John Lewis on the other hand
depicts a perfect balance of both.

Beauty

Home

Debenhams

8.9

HoF

10.3

M&S
Selfridges

16.6

7.4

25.2

58.6

20% Improved
Own-Brands

11.9
33.0

(%)

#3

#1

25.8
58.6

22.0

TOP 3 REASONS: What Would Encourage Consumers To Shop More at a

Department Store (February 2016)

5.6
64.6

55.4

Restaurant/Food Hall

69.0

13.6

John Lewis

10

Clothing

6.6

100

#2

14% Drink
Services

11% More
Convenient
Collection Points
for Online
Orders

However, out of 2,000 Internet users surveyed aged 16 and above. 52% answered None
of these. The total options in the survey were: Improved own-brands, improved food and
drink services, more convinient collection points for online orders, in-store events, more
environmentally friendly products, improved photos and videos of products online, a more
personalized website, refurbished store, additional services, temporary brands,
collaborations with designers or none of the ones mentioned.

11

Chosen Retailer, Sector & Product Group:

LUXURY
WOMENS
WEAR

DRESSES

52%

Female shoppers bought designer

fashion items as a tream for themselves

28%

Females 16-24 are more drawn to

purhcase designer fashion because
of a unique design
(Designer Fashion UK, November 2015, MINTEL)

12

13

SIZE OF AREA, LOCATION

& AMBIENCE

Sreenshot from Goole Maps of the department store location:

Liberty has only one location
in London. As seen in the map
above, Liberty is located in
central London close to high
shopping streets and tourist
spots, e.g. Bond Street and many
museums. This makes Liberty
quite a landmark due its
location. Because there is only
one department store,
whereas others brands have
multiple department stores in
different locations. Liberty has
become a must visit destination
because of its exclusivity and its
emphasis on the fact that this is
the ultimate store to shop at.

A bridge that has the name Liberty on

it. It gives people a sense of direction on
where the landmark is located and the
overall surrounding environment.

14

The entrance to Liberty, conveys a

medieval vibe and brings people a sense of
what England was like many decades ago.
(BOTH PICTURES ARE TAKEN MYSELF)

15

Screenshot of the Liberty Store Guide

(Taken from Official Website):

4. Home Collections

3. Lifestyle and Gift

2. Womenswear (Designers & Cafes)

1. Womenswear (Casual & Luxury)

G. Accessories

LG. Menswear

16

17

LIBERTY SECOND FLOOR SECTION

*PHOTOS TAKEN DURING MY VISIT

The Lanvin section in a corner

Entrance to the second floor by stairs,

at the start names of the designers are
printed on the floor because when we
walk up the stairs we look down and
once looked up, mannequins are
already presented

*Own photo

18

Looking across to the other side of the floor,

allows customers to get a peek at each floor and
whats around. This structure also creates a sense
of space and freedom

A pathway on the second floor, plenty

of space for consumers to walk. Gives
a sense of direction that consumers
have to walk by the clothing selections

19

The first displays you see when

entering the second floor.
Introducing the new brand,
Courreges

Product selection, very little sizes

on display as well as some brands
only having just one rack with a
tight collection of products

A large area dedicated to Acne

Studios, the Swedish brand.

Large selection from Kenzo,

adjusting to its quirkiness

Visual merchandizing of
The Row by the Olsen
twins and a corner
dedicated to Valentino

Product selection of Alexander

Wang, again very minimalistic

*PHOTOS TAKEN DURING MY

VISIT

20

21

CROSS SECTION OF
BRANDS & TOTAL
NUMBER OF OPTIONS
List of Brands (Luxury/Designer Dresses):
-

Lanvin
Courreges
Alexander Wang
Roksanda
Mary Katrantzou
Jonathan Saunders
Christopher Kane

Valentino
The Row
Rick Owens
Kenzo
ACNE
Peter Pilotto

Top 6 Brands With Most Variety:

3. PETER PILOTTO
48 products
5. ALEXANDER
WANG
27 products

2. ROKSANDA
57 products

22

5. CHRISTOPHER
KANE
33 products

4. KENZO
42 products

1. ACNE
81 products

23

FULL List of Brand and Variety (Dresses):

24

1. Acne

81

11. The Row

15

2. Roksanda

57

12. Mary Katrantzou

14

3. Peter Pilotto

48

13. Courreges

4. Kenzo

42

5. Christopher Kane

33

6. Alexander Wang

27

7. Valentino

24

8. Jonathan Saunders

21

9. Lanvin

19

10. Rick Owens

19

25

COMPARATIVE REPORT
Chosen Brands

Mary Katrantzou, Acne, Roksanda, Christopher Kane,

Alexander Wang and Kenzo

26

27

PRICING
ARCHITECTURE
Price Band Matrix:

660.00

75.00

1,350.00

306.46

650.00

137.99

975.96

1,895.00

949.66
291.00

140.00

7,020.00

1,925.31

406.36

551.81

2,400.00

755.00

595.00

100 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 900 1,000 2k

5k

7k

= Interquartile Range

Analysis:
- Mary Katrantzou has the most expensive price, however 660 GBP could arguably be
affordable for consumers who do shop premium items
- Acne, Christopher Kane, Kenzo and Alexander Wang are most affordable due to their cheapest price,
however some items can be extremely expensive varying in the thousandth place. E.g. Christopher Kane,
Roksanda and Acne
- Of all brands mentioned in the graph, Kenzo is the most affordable that offer premium products

28

29

PRICING
POLICY
Price/Style Matrix:

HIGH PRICE

CLASSIC

FASHION

LOW PRICE
Analysis:
- Acne and Alexander Wang are more affordable, however they are quite similiar in style as
they are known for their grunge-ish, minimalistic and tailored garments
- Kenzo however is also affordable, but has more crazier prints and also basics with
branded graphics or logos that is unique to the brand
- Mary Katrantzou is nearly same price as Roksanda and Christopher Kane but more costly.
Katrantzou has more fshion due to own personalized digital prints

30

31

Pricing Policy/Strategy:

PERFORMANCE (%)
RETAILER/
BRAND

POSITIONING
Product
Count

82
27
35
44
16
57
32

Option
Count

82

27

35

44

16

57

PRICE POINTS
(Min/ Med / Max)
= GBP

75.00
255.00
1,050.00

230.00
510.00
7550.00

137.99
770.00
2,400.00

130.01
352.49
590.00

660.00
1,052.50
70,020.00

349.98
890.00
1,895.00

Sellout

39.0

25.9

42.9

45.5

31.3

49.1

Replenished

1.2
0.0

2.9

2.3

0.0

7.0

Mean
Discount

39.0

25.9

42.9

45.5

31.3

49.1

Avg. Advertised as
Discounted

43.1

44.2

55.9

42.6

0.0

51.8

Price
Increased

0.0
3.7

0.0

6.8

0.0

3.5

Pricing
Policy
- Priced in whole
numbers in 10s or
5s
- Discount and
anchor pricing
- Priced in whole
numbers in 10s or
5s
- Discount and
anchor pricing
- Rounded to the
5th or whole (E.g.
35 or at 30)
- Anchor pricing
and discount
pricing
- Ends with a even
number in sales
- Original price
ends at odd number
- Discount and
anchor pricing
- Prices goes up or
down in 5s
- Psychological
pricing

- Psychological
pricing
- Odd pricing
- Discount pricing

33

COMPARATIVE CHART
OF BRANDS

34

35

Retailer
Category
Season
First Price

Directional
S/S2016
1,495
55% Cotton, 30% Polyester

Retailer
Category

Acne
Classic

Season

S/S2016

First Price

290.00

Fabric

100% Cotton

and 15% Polyamide

First Sell Out

Features
Description

3 June 2016
Rear zip fastening
Colorblock striped dress

with oversized frilled sleeves and round neck

Retailer
Category
Season
First Price
Fabric

Features
Description

Features
Description

19 March 2016
Centre front button fastening
White short sleeved shirt dress,

with cuffed, seersucker stripes and pointed collar

Mary Katrantzou
Directional
S/S2016
7,020.00
100 % Silk, Lining: 100% Silk,
Embelishments: 100% Polyester

First Sell Out

First Sell Out

Retailer
Category

Black mini dress with embroidery

and embellishments, sleeveless with round neck

Classic

Season

S/S2016

First Price

710.00

Fabric

65% Viscose, 32% Acetate,

and 3% Elastane

10 May 2016
Rear zip fastening

Alexander Wang

CLASSIC

DIRECTIONAL

Fabric

Roksanda

First Sell Out

Features

21 May 2016
Chain back

Description Long sleeved black tunic dress with

open cuffs, fully lined and silver chain in back

36

37

Retailer

Kenzo

Category
Season

S/S2016

First Price

350.00

Fabric

STANDARD TREND

Standard Trend

100% Polyester, Outer: 100% Viscose

First Sell Out

Features
Description

N/A
Zip back fastening
A-line silhouette shift dress with
with graphic cactus print

Retailer
Category

Christopher Kane
Standard Trend

Season

S/S2016

First Price

895.00

Fabric

54% Viscose, 43% Acetate,

and 3% Elastane

First Sell Out

Features
Description

N/A
Blue and green fringing
Black deep v-neck mini dress

with diagonal electric blue and green fringing

38

39

INNOVATORS 2.5%

PSYCHOGRAPHIC
PROFILE GRAPH

EARLY
ADOPTERS
13.5%

40

EARLY
MAJORITY
34%

LATE
MAJORITY
34%

LAGARDS
16%

41

BRAND IDENTITY
COMPARISONS

42

43

BRAND LOGO
- MARY KATRANTZOU

Very minimalistic like many other logos
below. However, the font is bold and signifies a
statement. The simplistic logo contrasts well with
Marys chaotic and colorful style.
- ALEXANDER WANG

The font is capitalized and bolded more
than Marys logo. It definitley makes the name
stand out as Wang creates contemporary and
minimalistic clothing.
- CHRISTOPHER KANE

Simply font with spacing inbetween each
letter, creates a contemporary look. Similiar to
Katrantzou, his designs are very colorful and
detailed. Therefore, the logo helps create
contradiction.
- ACNE

Similiar to Alexander Wang, Acne is
extremely bolded to create emphasis and also
grabs consumers attention due to its tailored and
minimalistic style. Theres a twist of femininity
from the curved font to create a new meaning
versus the actual meaning of Acne.
- KENZO

Logo has an artistic sense, which is
reflected in their clothing. The usage of lines to
form a symbol is dynamic and also unique as
contemporary consumers are interested in
challenging perspectives. The logo is also
different, which is what the brand hopes to
achieve for their consumers.
- ROKSANDA

Like Kane and Katrantzou, Roksanda also
utilizes minimalistic font with spacing.
However, the font letters are curved and thin to
make it seem contemporary and youthful as it
conveys child-like handwriting.

44

45

DISPLAY
TECHNIQUES

46

Mary Katrantzou x Moncler M

collaboration. Black mannequin sitting
on a shelf wearing a monclet jacket with
Katrantzous print

Mary Katrantzou x Moncler M

collaboration. Individual jacket hung on
a minimalistic/simple and neutral colored
hanger to allow emphasis of the prints

Mary Katrantzou x Moncler M

collaboration. The whole merchandizing
space. Minimalistic, neutral (Black or
white) display furnitures to create balance
with Kantrantzous crazy prints

Mary Katrantzou x Longchamp bag

collection, individually displayed on a
black/glass shelf. One is only needed as
too many of the stock shows chaos and
creates too much distraction. Having only
one allows focus and creates attention
than a cluster of prints

47

Window display utilizing bold colors with

one singular mannequin reflection action
and almost in motion. Draws attention as
it is centered between two installations,
creates a sense of symmetry that appeals
to the eyes. The backdrop reflects
glamour and fun at the same time while
not taking away too much from the
pritned dress

Mary Katrantzou x Longchamp. Minimal

displays that are either black or white.
Plain background to allow the prints stand
out by itself. Bags accompanied to create
a outfit. The white mannequin allows the
print to stand out more and pairs well
with many colors

Visual merchandising (Above and right

side). Utilizing only 3 mannequins to
create appeal and allows enough preview
of her collection to create anticipating/excitement. Feminine and dynamic displays
such as the bike or circles with prints
within simple or one colored environment
to subtly allow the garments stand out yet
maintain Katrantzous feminine yet crazy
and colorful prints

48

Alexander Wang Tokyo flagship

store. Very minimalistic,
grayscale and monochromatic
style. Very little garment
display, more emphasis on
architecture and interior design.
Therefore, focuses more on
retail experience

Window display at Bergdorf

Goodman. Busy yet
minimalistic, using limited
colors. Red adds a pop of color.
Has a futuristic sense due the
mechanical items in display

Alexander Wang New York

flagship store. Playful with
texture, marble floor, puffy
metallic looking walls and
reflective surfaces in the
displays. Wang creates a
futuristic yet minimalistic
contemporary display with
minimal products shown

Flagship store in Beijing.

Again, very minimalistic yet
modern. Logo creates
contrast with the wall. Gold
as a pop of color that also
appeals to both genders

Alexander Wang/ Jeff

Letham installation of 3,000
suspended white
hydrangeas at Soho store
in New York. Minimalistic
yet feminine in empowering
ways through use of white
against hard textiles,
appeals to the younger
market

New York Soho store.

Creates a relaxed and
minimalistic environment.
Plays with texture, e.g.
hammock vs. soft rug vs.
tree branches in the
[Link] hung on
black racks

49

London store in Mayfair. Similiar to

Alexander Wang in terms of minimalism and
simplicity. However, Kanes displays are more
feminine due to the warmth of the white
colors and lighting. Garments hang on silver
racks or singularly on white mannequins to
blend in with the environment. Hangers are
attached to the physical store itself, allowing
garments to float above the store floors

Same store in London. Simply yet spacious

environment. Minimal clothes hung and products
displayed. Again, the rack is off the floor and hung
on to the walls. Gives garments a sense of space
and dynamic feel. Allows customers to see the
garment in 360 as details and silhouette are
important

50

Installation display utilizing only two

looks on white mannequins. Shows
women in action by manipulation of
the fringe in the backdrop.
Minimalistic, allows the details of
the garment to be seen for everyday
women

Window display of Acne Studios. Similiar

to Kane and Wang, very minimalistic and
modern. However, like Alexander Wang.
They also play with texture. More
emphasis on utilization of lighting. Again,
very little product on display. Its more
about the details and tailoring. Has a
modern and conceptual touch

Acne store in Paris. Singular garment

shown in glass box. Represents a
showcase making consumers feel like
their significant.

Pelham store, use of soft pinks to

create feminity. However, the shade
appeals to both genders. Utilization of
steel and silver to create a futuristic
look. Garments seem hung within the
physical environment. All colors are
neutral or in black to pair well with
whats stocked

Berlin store, also utilizing pastel

colors against steel/hard textiles.
Industrailized lighting reflecting
Studios

51

Printemps in Paris. Accompanied by

black and white stripes to create a crazy
effect and youthful sense

52

Display utilizing prints, black and white

to pair well with other colors. Black
mannequin to create modern look and
not taking attention away from clothes

Milan, Italy. Has a cool effect

utilizing glass and dark colors with
gray undertone. LED lighting to
appeal to masculinity and sport

Milan store with blue marble displays.

White walls and floors to create a
contemporary space, however
remains the cool boyish attitude

Roksanda at Selfridges. Crazy,

colorful and printed dress
hanging against a black backdrop
to create emphasis

Window display of Roksanda.

Again, only using three
mannequins. Accessorized with
butterflies to appeal to young and
feminine women. Reflects the
colorful backdrop

Three mannequins, similiarly to Katrantzous

display, creates a symbolic appeal. Mannequins
like Christopher Kanes in movement, appeals
to the eyes. Gestures are feminine that appeal to
the younger demographic

Glossy floor to represent its premium quality and

luxury consumer. Golden and copper stands to
appeal to women and minimalistic shape/lining
of the rack to make it seem contemporary. The
rack consists of garments where its color
combines well together

53

PACKAGING
& BAGS

54

55

56

57

ADVERTISING

Creative installations, window displays, collaborations with high street brands and artists, runway

Controversial and explicit ad campaigns, celebrity endorsements (Tyga above), cage installations

Runway designs, ad campaigns and collaborations regarding product development

58

59

Personal or cool celebrity endorsements, tailored/minimalistic campaigns, tumblr and pinterest pictures of packaging and their clothes, and runway designs

Runway designs, ad campaigns for magazines E.g. Triumph and Harpers Bazaar, and celebrity endoresements e.g. Michelle Obama, Duchess of Cambridge

Creative ad campaigns, runway designs, installations and pop-up stores and cafes in big cities

60

61

COLLABORATIONS

Mary Katrantzou x Adidas Originals Season 2

Mary Katrantzou x Adidas Originals

62

63

Mary Katrantzou x Swarovski Autumn/Winter 2014

Mary Katrantzou x Swarovski S/S 2014

Mary Katrantzou for Topshop Spring/Summer 2012

Swarovski S/S 2013

Swarovski A/W 2011

Swarovski S/S 2012

Mary Katrantzou for Moncler M

Mary Katrantzou for Longchamp

64

Mary Katrantzou x Lesage Autumn/Winter 2012

65

Alexander Wang for H&M 2014

Alexander Wang x The Weeknd

capsule collection WANGXO

66

Alexander Wang Do Something Campaign featuring All

Star Cast (Kanye West, Jhene Aiko, The Weeknd...)

Christopher Kane collaboration with Nars beauty collection Spring/Summer 2015

Christopher Kane for Topshop 2009

67

Acne x Lanvin 2008-11

KENZO x Disney collection 2016

Acne x Liberty London collaboration February 2014

Acne x Daniel Silver Spring/Summer 2012

68

KENZO x Evian

KENZO x Eastpak 2012

KENZO x New Era

69

Roksanda for Debenhams Autumn/Winter 2011

KENZO x Vans

Roksanda for Whistles 2010

KENZO x H&M up and coming collection releasing in November 2016

Roksanda x Smythson resort collection 2016

70

71

SOCIAL MEDIA
PROMOTION
- MARY KATRANTZOU

334k

Instagram
followers

74.4k
Twitter
followers

107.7k
Facebook
likes

- ALEXANDER WANG

2.1m

Instagram
followers

595k

Twitter
followers

790.2k
Facebook
likes

- CHRISTOPHER KANE

156k

Instagram
followers

4.5k

Twitter
followers

8.4k

(No tweets yet)

Facebook
likes

127k

554.8k

272k

796.3k

- ACNE

1.2m

Instagram
followers

Twitter
followers

Facebook
likes

- KENZO

1.2m

Instagram
followers

Twitter
followers

Facebook
likes

- ROKSANDA

96.4k

72

Instagram
followers

12.9k
Twitter
followers

44k

Facebook
likes

73

CONSUMER
PROFILE/ TARGET
MARKET FOR BRAND

Not afraid of prints & colors

International
Diverse,large,
cultural cities

Youthful

Working class woman

Confident & Trend

Setter

Artistic & Different

Unique &
Self-expression

Feminine

74

Stylish &
Fashionable

75

Trend
Follower

Working
Class
Woman

East London Origin

to International Wide
Audience

Big
cities
like
Paris

Minimalistic Chic
Pale
Grunge
Influence

Colorful
Comfort
Working class
women who
follow trends
Off-Duty
Look
Sporty Athleisure

Slouchy
Basics

Alternative Music

Architectural
Inspiration

Outgoing & busy

76

* REASON for the limited consumer profiles (Kane & Roksanda) due to small consumer
base not fully established.

77

Punk
Young
Attitude

Minimalistic Style
& Lifestyle

Japan
Influence

Oversized
Love

Hip Hop Culture

Flamboyant

Nordic
Origins

Big City Girl

Contemporary
Creatives
Fresh & Modern

Independent &
Empowered

Tumblr

78

Punk Grunge

Childlike

Cool Gang
Attitude

79

EVALUATION

80

81

EVALUATION
Which brands are performing best?

&

Which brands are losing/gaining market share?

Losing: Acne, with 82 products stocked, they only make about 40% sales, whereas about
40% is being discounted as well (EDITED)
Gaining: Mary Katrantzou, with only limited amount stocked. None has been discounted yet
and makes 31% sellout with just 16 dresses stocked (EDITED)

Are any brands doing exciting collaborations/opening new stand-alone stores?

Mary Katrantzou has done the most collaborations with known high street brands, she has
also collaborated with artists due to her creative style and personalized prints.
* Liberty also has plans in 2018 to expand to the US and Italy, Mary Katrantzou is already
stocked in 48 other countries, Katrantzou needs more international appeal and growth
Kenzo is releasing a new collection with H&M in fall 2016 and has collaborated with
known hip-hop stars such as The Weeknd, Pusha-T, Jhene Aiko, etc

In terms of DPP, would all of the brands in the

current portfolio be profitable?
Since Mary Katrantzous statistics have a positive indication, it might be a good idea to
expand the merchandizing space to fully meet DPP whereas Acne has taken up too much
space and isnt making the required profit
Kenzo has a large space of its own but it is located in its own corner so it is more of a
stand-alone area. Furthermore, it has a crazy style that can appeal to Libertys younger
consumers
Though both Mary Katrantzou and Roksanda do generally well and have less
merchandizing space. Mary Katrantzou can bring in the right kind of contemporary that
Liberty needs in their portfolio by bringing in digital prints

82

83

QUICK SELLERS

BOSTON MATRIX

50%
Sellout

49%
Sellout

HIGH SHARE

LOW SHARE

Stars

Questions Marks

6.8%
Price
Increase

3.5%
Price
Increase

Fits within
Libertys
portfolio

7.0%

Stock
Replenished

Only
has 16
products
stocked

31%
Sellout

Stockists
in
48
countries

- Still not worldwide known yet (Refer

to primary research from Group
Presentation)
- However, Mary has the most
collaborations with high street brands
- Combines prints with digital
technology, could be a good link to
have Libertys prints with hers

SLOW SELLERS

43%
Sellout

Sell:Sales
Equal ratio
43:50

Appeals
more to
older/everyday women

26%
Sellout

of Stock
Discounted

Brand has a East London heritage,

therefore is more relevant to Liberty

39%
Sellout

LOW DISCOUNT

84

45%

40%

of Stock
Discounted

Has the
most stock
(82
products)

Both brands have a minimalistic style and both attract a very young consumer base as well. They may
be a bit too contemporary for
Libertys consumers

Cash Cows

HIGH DISCOUNT

85

ANALYSIS &
PROPOSAL

ANALYSIS

Through the extensive research and comparative charts of these six brands (That are
stocked in Liberty). Acne, Alexander Wang and Christopher Kane seem to perform the least
as compared to the other brands. However, as a Buying Director. Acne should be re-considered in regards to its DPP and merchandising space as well as its statistics. Though
other brands may perform a little less than Acne. We feel that Acne does not suit within
Libertys identity portfolio at all. This is because Christopher Kane adds a touch of feminity
to the portfolio as well as the fact that it is still a small brand. Also, Alexander Wang we
feel can reach out the cool and grunge consumers with attitude and wants to feel
empowered. Whereas Acne stands out to be too minimalistic. We find that Mary Katrantzou
has very little stock, and with its limited stock the results are quite succesfful. The
designer has more collaborations than others, and truly has a unique and different style.
Exactly what Liberty needs

To re-position Swedish brand, Acne,

by giving them less merchandizing
space. Therefore expand the brand,
Mary Katrantzou
KEY POINTS OF LAUNCH
- Give Mary Katrantzou more Merchandising space
- Perhaps have Acne 1-2 racks only with garments that suit their consumer base more than
its overall popularity
- Phygitial retail (Global retail trend), have the Theres Something About Mary by
SHOWStudio playing on loop in the background, features Karlie Kloss
- More physical, dynamic and bold visual merchandizing to attract consumers due to Marys
prints and unique world

86

87

JUSTIFICATION

Though Acne is more global, the table below indicates that Acne is under performing
for its product count. The ratio from Acnes stock to Mary indicates that Mary has a better
sell out rate than Acne. To add to this proposal, the pictures below depict the
merchandizing space. Acne has a large dedicated space with plain and minimalistic
clothing. This doesnt reflect Libertys brand portfolio as they are known to be creative and
quirky. Whereas Mary Katrantzou conveys differentiation and crazy prints. Not only that,
Mary combines Libertys heritage of prints and digital, contemporary technology.

RATIONALE

PERFORMANCE (%)
RETAILER/
BRAND

POSITIONING
Product
Count

82
16

PRICE POINTS

Option
Count

(Min/ Med / Max)

= GBP

Sellout

Replenished

Mean
Discount

Avg. Advertised as
Discounted

Price
Increased

82

75.00
255.00
1,050.00

39.0

1.2

39.0

43.1

0.0

16

660.00
1,052.50
70,020.00

31.3

0.0

31.3

0.0

0.0

Sells almost as much as Acne

Acne has discounted garments

Unproportionate

VS.
88

89

MINI PROJECTS
A, B, C & D

90

91

MINI PROJECT A:
ANSOFF MATRIX

NEW

MARKETS

EXISTING

POSITIONING

92

EXISTING

NEW

Market Penetration

Product Development

- Celebrity endorsements
that suit their target
market e.g. Loose Women

- More youthful products

Market Development

Diversification

- Adding more Arcadia

group brands into store
younger consumers
- Perhaps consider Miss
Selfridge/Topshop
- Bringing in student
discounts

- Bringing a beauty range

into stores for women

93

MINI PROJECT B:
BRAND DNA
CASESTUDY

Monki lives for fashion.

We are a brand full of personality, providing innovative clothing to the free spirited, fun
and funki consumer. Monki creates collections specifically for those who love to express
themselves while trying to save our beautiful planet and humanity. We make sure we use
the right amount of resources to produce our clothing. Part of our brand identity connects
our values of the environment and the care taken towards workers, you can see this with
the MONKI Cares tags which are attached to each garment, a representation of being the
best part of yourself within our brand.

94

95

MINI PROJECT C:
LUXURY GARMENT
CASE STUDY

Evaluation (All pictures taken myself):

Dries van Noten blazer jacket

Jacquard printing

Retailed at 655 GBP

- In terms of fabric composition, the brand combines both

natural and synthetic fibres to create a more affordable look as
its priced at 655 GBP
- However, the jacquard printing is extremely detailed and also is
partially on the inside, does not show the different sides but the
same side
- The additional finishes look cheap (The rings utilized for
buttons/fastening)
SUMMARY:

Though this tailored blazer is a relatively high quality
piece, the retail price is considerably too expensive due to its
fabric composition and lack of detailing in terms of finishes. The
print however accounts for its quality.

96

Fabric composition

Country of origin

Embellishments - buttons

97

MINI PROJECT D:
SOCIAL MEDIA
STATEGY
Screenshots from group presentation:

98

99

100

101

BIBLIOGRAPHY

102

103

BIBLIOGRAPHY
WEBSITES


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Richard, M., 2016. Statistical bulletin:Retail sales: March 2016. Retail sales - Office for
National Statistics. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 04/2016].


Monki | Puts the smile back in fashion! Monki | Puts the smile back in fashion! Available at:
[Link] [Accessed 05/2016].

LIST OF IMAGES
INTRODUCTORY PAGES

Danthony, T., 2015. Liberty. Behance. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 05/2016].

2015. Valentines Calligraphy at Liberty London - Betty Etiquette stationery. Betty Etiquette
Stationery for Storytellers RSS. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

PDF REPORTS

Mary Katrantzou Resort 2016 Collection Photos. Vogue. Available at: [Link]
fashion-shows/resort-2016/mary-katrantzou/slideshow/collection#10 [Accessed 06/2016].


Swarovski Crystal. Swarovski. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

Sender, T., 2016. DEPARTMENT STORES RETAILERS AT A GLANCE, APRIL 2016,
MINTEL [Accessed 05/2016].

Mary Katrantzou - Karlie Kloss. Mary Katrantzou. Available at: [Link]

[Link]/originals/0e/1b/ae/[Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

2016. EXECUTIVE SUMMARY: DEPARTMENT STORES UK, APRIL 2016, MINTEL

[Accessed 05/2016].

2015. Mary Katrantzou. STOREYSTUDIO. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

Mary Katrantzou Window Display. Pinterest. Available at: [Link]

pin/45176802491200648/ [Accessed 0

Sender, T., 2016. DEPARTMENT STORE RETAILING UK, APRIL 2016, MINTEL [Accessed
05/2016].

6/2016].

Mary Katrantzou X Adidas Originals Season - The Campaign - Mary Katrantzou. Mary Katrantzou X Adidas Originals Season - The Campaign - Mary Katrantzou. Available at: [Link]
[Link]/projects/mary-katrantzou-x-adidas-originals-season/the-campaign [Accessed
06/016].

Projects & Collaborations | Mary Katrantzou. Projects & Collaborations | Mary Katrantzou. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

104

105

LIBERTY PRINTS


Meadow Silhouette D Tana Lawn Cotton. Liberty Art Fabrics Meadow Silhouette Tana
Lawn Cotton. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 05/2016].

Meadow Silhouette A Tana Lawn Cotton. Liberty Art Fabrics Meadow Silhouette Tana

Lawn Cotton. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 05/2016].

FASHION ILLUSTRATIONS BY ANTONIO SOARES

Meadow Silhouette B Tana Lawn Cotton. Liberty Art Fabrics Meadow Silhouette Tana
Lawn Cotton. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 05/2016].

Junes Meadow A Tana Lawn Cotton. Liberty Art Fabrics Junes Meadow Tana Lawn Cotton.
Available at: [Link]
[Accessed 05/2016].

Junes Meadow E Tana Lawn Cotton. Liberty Art Fabrics Junes Meadow Tana Lawn Cotton.
Available at: [Link]
[Accessed 05/2016].

Junes Meadow F Tana Lawn Cotton. Liberty Art Fabrics Junes Meadow Tana Lawn Cotton.
Available at: [Link]
[Accessed 05/2016].


Tresco E Tana Lawn Cotton. Liberty Art Fabrics Tresco Tana Lawn Cotton. Available at:
[Link] [Accessed 05/2016].

Tresco A Tana Lawn Cotton. Liberty Art Fabrics Tresco Tana Lawn Cotton. Available at:

[Link] [Accessed 05/2016].

Archive Lilac D Tana Lawn Cotton. Liberty Art Fabrics Archive Lilac Tana Lawn Cotton.
Available at: [Link]
[Accessed June 05/2016].

Soares, A., Antnio soares on Behance. Behance. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 05/2016].
SECTIONS 1-3

AUTHORS OWN PHOTOGRAPHS

Liberty Illustration. Pinterest.

QUARE SCARF 140x140 | Mary Katrantzou. SQUARE SCARF 140x140 | Mary Katrantzou.
Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/016].

little white socks. little white socks. Available at: [Link]
post/107484519479 [Accessed 06/2016].

A., aclockworkpink. aclockworkpink. Available at: [Link]
post/19690672339 [Accessed 06/2016].
SECTIONS 4-7

Lapa, A., 2014. Mary Katrantzou for adidas Originals Launches Next Week - GlamAsia. GlamAsia. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/016].

EDITED. EDITED. [Accessed 05/2016].


Poppys Patchwork B Tana Lawn Cotton. Liberty Art Fabrics Poppys Patchwork Tana Lawn
Cotton. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

Pointillism E Tana Lawn Cotton. Liberty Art Fabrics Pointillism Tana Lawn Cotton. Available
at: [Link] [Accessed 06/
2016].

Mary Katrantzou Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Collection Photos. Vogue. Available at: http://
[Link]/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/mary-katrantzou/slideshow/collection
[Accessed 06/2016].

106

107

SECTION 8 - DISPLAY TECHNIQUES

THE PROVOKER | by Nathan Moy: Christopher Kane GIVEAWAY. THE PROVOKER | by
Nathan Moy: Christopher Kane GIVEAWAY. Available at: [Link]
[Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

Mary Katrantzou For Longchamp - Launch At Colette Paris - Mary Katrantzou. Mary Ka
trantzou For Longchamp - Launch At Colette Paris - Mary Katrantzou. Available at: [Link]
[Link]/projects/mary-katrantzou-for-longchamp/launch-at-colette-paris [Accessed
06/2016].

2014. Shoplog : Acne Studios Skinny Jeans (We Heart Fashion). Bloglovin. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

Marys World | Official Blog | Mary Katrantzou. Marys World | Official Blog | Mary Katrantzou. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

Lee, E.Y.J., 2013. See the Alexander Wang Tokyo Flagship in Aoyama. Highsnobiety See
the Alexander Wang Tokyo Flagship in Aoyama Comments. Available at: [Link]
com/2013/10/08/see-the-alexander-wang-tokyo-flagship-in-aoyama/ [Accessed 06/2016].

Blog. SORS. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

2015. #AWxBG: 5th/58th | 5th at 58th - The Bergdorf Goodman Blog. 5th at 58th The
Bergdorf Goodman Blog. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

Lim, A., 2015. John Pawsons Christopher Kane Store. Minimalissimo. Available at: http://
[Link]/john-pawsons-christopher-kane-store/ [Accessed 06/2016].


Acne Studios - Store Pelham Shop Ready to Wear, Accessories, Shoes and Denim for Men
and Women. Acne Studios - Store Pelham Shop Ready to Wear, Accessories, Shoes and Denim
for Men and Women. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/
2016].
2015. berlin: acne studios opening - superfuture. superfuture. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].


Kenzo Store Renewal by Carol Lim & Humberto Leon, Milan Italy Retail Design Blog.
Retail Design Blog RSS. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].
2014. Kenzo Takes Over Printemps in Paris. WWD. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].
SECTION 8 - PACKAGING & ADVERTISING


Retail Packaging. * Nirvana CPH. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

E-Commerce Packaging. * Nirvana CPH. Available at: [Link]
mary-katrantzou/ [Accessed 06/2016].
Alexander Wang shopping bag. Poshmark. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

Kenzo Packaging. Kenzo Packaging. Available at: [Link]
com/202983/5749057/works/kenzo-packaging [Accessed June 06/2016].

108

Mary Katrantzou For Moncler M - Instore - Mary Katrantzou. Mary Katrantzou For Moncler
M - Instore - Mary Katrantzou. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

Linn van Leeuwen (OurLifestyles). Pinterest. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 05/2016].

Mary Katrantzou Pre-Fall 2016 Collection Photos. Vogue. Available at: [Link]
com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2016/mary-katrantzou/slideshow/collection [Accessed 06/2016].

Christopher Kane S/S 16 (Christopher Kane). [Link]. Available at: [Link]
work/christopher-kane-christopher-kane-ss-16 [Accessed 06/2016].

Mower, S., 2011. Mary Katrantzou Fall 2011. Vogue. Available at: [Link]
fashion-week-review/863343/mary-katrantzou-fall-2011/#/collection/details/fall-2011/mary-katrantzou/61/ [Accessed 06/2016].

Alexander Wang x DoSomething (Campaign). Nx Magazine Alexander Wang x DoSome

thing Campaign Comments. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

SECTION 8 - COLLABORATIONS

Mary Katrantzou Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Collection Photos. Vogue. Available at: http://
[Link]/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/mary-katrantzou/slideshow/collection
[Accessed 06/2016].

Projects & Collaborations | Mary Katrantzou. Projects & Collaborations | Mary Katrantzou.

Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

Blalock, M., 2014. The Full Alexander Wang x H&M Lookbook Has Finally Arrived! WhoWhatWear UK. Available at: [Link]
[Accessed 06/2016].
2015. Alexander Wang Launches New Campaign With All-Star Cast of Kanye West, Jhene
Aiko, The Weeknd & More - Saint Heron. Saint Heron. Available at: [Link]

alexander-wang-launches-new-campaign-with-all-star-cast-of-kanye-west-jhene-aiko-the-weekndmore/ [Accessed 06/2016].

Christopher Kane For Nars Revealed. Vogue UK. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/ 2016].

2006: Christopher Kane x Topshop from Best Designer Collaborations of All Time.
E! Online. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

2014. 20 Best Designer Collaborations of 2014 - theFashionSpot. theFashionSpot. Available
at: [Link]
[Accessed 06 2016].

109

SECTION 8 - CONSUMER PROFILE/TARGET MARKETS

ALL FOUND IN THIS PINTEREST BOARD LINK BELOW
Brand Identity Comparison Pinterest Board. Pinterest. Available at: [Link]
com/ourlifestyles/fbm15105-brand-identity-comparison/ [Accessed 06/2016].
MINI PROJECTS

Monki | Puts the smile back in fashion! Monki | Puts the smile back in fashion! Available at:
[Link] [Accessed 05/2016].


Group H - Mini Project B (Monki). Pinterest. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 05/016].

Emma Greenhill. Emma Greenhill Online Shop Comments. Available at: [Link] [Accessed 06/2016].

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