Installing Gyprock ®
plasterboard
HOW TO INSTALL GYPROCK® PLASTERBOARD
WALLS AND CEILINGS
There are some areas in a home that require special installation
procedures. These include wet areas, tiled areas, garages and
exterior ceilings.
For more detailed information, refer to the Gyprock DIY videos
and Gyprock Residential Installation Guide, available at
[Link]
Make sure you use appropriate safety equipment including
gloves, a dust mask, safety glasses and hearing protection.
SHOPPING LIST
• Gyprock plasterboard • Platform and ladder
• Gyprock Acrylic to reach the ceiling and
Stud Adhesive top of walls
• 38mm broadknife • Small offcuts of board
to apply adhesive to use as packers
• For a timber frame, 30mm • Metal corner bead
ring shank nails or Type • Tin snips
‘W’ 32mm coarse • Utility knife
thread screws
• Staple gun and staples
• For a steel frame, No.6 or hammer and nails
Type ‘S’ needle point or
• Straight edge, pencil
drill point screws
and measuring tape
• Hammer or cordless
• Plasterboard lifter
screw driver
for ceilings
• Fine tooth saw
For ceilings where more than three recessed joints are planned
and for all butt joints between framing members, back-blocking
is recommended. For this
you’ll need: Check frame
for squareness
• 200mm wide strips
of plasterboard
Set square
• Gyprock Back-Blocking
Cement
• Bucket and water Check frame
for mixing for alignment
• Laminating screws Straight
edge
• 6mm notched spreader
PREPARING THE FRAME
1. Make sure studs and ceiling framing are located at 600mm
maximum centres. Where there is a change of direction in
the ceiling frame, within a room, fit trimmers to fix to.
2. Check the studs, noggings and ceiling joists with a straight
edge to make sure they are aligned. Plane back or pack out
uneven members.
3. Remove or hammer down any protruding nails. Make sure
surfaces are dry and free of dirt, paint or grease.
INSTALLATION
If you are installing both the walls and ceiling of a room it’s
always best to start with the ceiling to reduce the possibility
of damage later on.
Fixing to ceilings
1. Starting 200mm from where the edge of the board will go,
apply walnut sized daubs of Gyprock Stud Adhesive to each
joist and then every 200 – 230mm, keeping the area 200mm
either side of the centre line free of adhesive.
2. Where the end of a sheet is at a joist, do not apply adhesive
as these will be fixed with nails or screws alone.
3. Install the sheets at right angles to the joists and nail or screw
the sheet to the joists around 10–16mm in from the edge
along the recess. Take care
to drive the fastener just
below the board surface
without breaking the face
paper. Make sure you don’t
drive the fixing through any
of the daubs of adhesive.
Adhesive daubs 200mm Adhesive daubs
min. from fasteners at at 230mm max.
edges and centres centres
Two nails 75mm apart or
one screw at sheet centre
in each frame member
Leave 200mm each
side of centre line
free of adhesive
Note: For a square set ceiling, the edge of the board along
the wall should ideally have the recess removed.
4. Press the sheet firmly against the adhesive and fix along
the opposite edge in the same way.
5. Fasten the sheet to each joist along the centre either using
two nails 75mm apart or a single screw.
6. At the ends of the sheet, nail or screw at maximum 300mm
spacings where there will be a cornice finish or 150mm if the
ceiling will be square set.
7. Fix the next sheet with the recessed edges butted against
each other with no gaps and push up against the back block
if it is being used (refer to back-blocking below).
8. Continue until you reach the last board.
9. Check the measurement and cut the last board to fit
ensuring the cut edge is at the wall side of the room.
Back-blocking
Back-blocks are strips of plasterboard that provide additional
support and ensure a smooth surface. Back-blocking is
recommended for all butt joints that are not at a joist or stud,
and when the ceiling installation involves three or more recessed
joints across.
1. Cut back-blocks at least 200mm wide and long enough
to fit loosely between the framing members.
2. Apply Gyprock Back-Blocking Cement to one side of the
back-block with the notched trowel at right angles to the
joint direction.
3. Place the back-block with the long edge along the sheet
joint edge with half the width of the back-block exposed
so the next sheet can be installed against it.
4. Attach back-blocks with a laminating screw through the
recess area around 10–16mm from the sheet edge.
Framing or battens
Plasterboard back-blocking
at least 200mm width and
centred over recess joint
Recess joint
Back-blocking cut to
fit loosely between
framing members
Fixing to walls
1. Starting 200mm from the bottom of the frame, apply walnut
sized daubs of Gyprock Stud Adhesive at maximum 300mm
spacings to each of the studs, keeping the area 200mm
either side of the sheet edge free of adhesive.
2. Where the end of a sheet is at a stud, do not apply adhesive
as these will be fixed with nails or screws alone.
200mm from
top of frame
Adhesive
daubs at
300mm
centres
Recessed edge
Temporary fasteners
through plasterboard blocks 300mm
centres
Adhesive
daubs at
300mm
centres
on studs
200mm
from bottom Recessed edge
of frame
Use plasterboard off-cut
to form gap between
sheet and floor
3. Place plasterboard offcuts on the floor against the frame
as packers to keep the bottom edge of the sheet raised.
4. L
ift the plasterboard sheet horizontally onto the packers and
nail or screw it to each of the studs around 10–16mm in from
the edge along the recess. Take care to drive the fastener just
below the board surface without breaking the face paper.
5. Press the sheet firmly against the adhesive and fix along
the opposite edge in the same way.
6. Nail or screw every 300mm around the ends of the sheet
and any openings, avoiding any of the daubs of adhesive.
7. Where the short ends of sheets meet at a stud, nail at 150mm
maximum centres or screw at 200mm maximum centres.
8. Drive temporary nails or screws through a small plasterboard
offcut into every second stud in the middle of the sheet to
help secure it against the studs while the adhesive dries.
9. Once the bottom sheet is in you can check the height of the
top sheet and cut it to fit making sure you keep one recessed
edge intact.
10. Fit the top sheet in the same way, making sure the
recessed edges butt together with no gaps.
11. For any butt joints that are not at a stud refer to
back-blocking above.
Note: If your top board has a square cut edge for a square
set ceiling, make sure this goes along the ceiling edge.
External corners
External corner beads are used to strengthen corners that
project into the room and protect against damage.
1. Make sure the sheets are aligned correctly at the corner
and trim any overhang with your utility knife.
2. Cut the external bead to length using tin snips.
3. Fit the bead to the corner and hold it in place with staples
ortemporary nails.
4. Check it is straight using the straight edge then staple or nail
the bead through both legs at each end and every 500mm
along the length.
Fix External
Corner Bead
PVC corner beads are also available but are a little more difficult
to install. They are generally more resilient than a metal bead
and less likely to dent on impact. They are also recommended
for use in wet areas.
PVC corner beads are installed by adhering them to the
plasterboard edges using Gyprock Base Coat before applying
the jointing system. Refer to the Gyprock Residential Installation
Guide for complete instructions.
Find more DIY guides at [Link]/DIY
and instructional videos at [Link]/videos
G206 APRIL 2016
Triniti 3, 39 Delhi Road, North Ryde, NSW 2113, Australia
CSR Building Products ABN 55 008 631 356
