Arbuckle Midrange Clays
Cone 5-
5-6 Clay Bodies
Cone 5 Cream/Gray Throwing Revised Steve==s White c6 Pete Pinnell Porcelain Cone 6
Body ST-3 *
KY ball clay 28.3 EPK 19.4 Tenn Ball Clay 25
TN ball clay 20.4 Tile 6 clay 19.4 #6 Tile Clay 25
EPK 31.0 GoldArt 14.6 Silica 25
Potash spar 3.1 XX Sagger 9.7 Custer Spar 25
Grog 60-80 mesh 10.0 A.P. Green 9.7 Total 100
Total 92.8 Custer feldspar 14.6 +Bentonite 1%
Shrinkage 10.8%, plasticity 9.5. Talc 2.9 Soak Bentonite before adding to clay
Cream in oxidation, cool tan-grey Flint 9.7
in reduction. Total 100
Black-Brown Throwing Cone 6 Brown Stoneware Throwing Cone 5- Off-White Throwing Body Cone 6-8 *
6 ST-4 *
Red earthenware 40 red clay 38 EPK 35
Kaolin 18 EPK 24 Neph Sy 25
KY OM 4 ball 15 Feldspar 13.5 Silica 20
RIO (Red Iron Ox.) 16 Cornwall Stone 10 Kaolin (GA) 15
Manganese diox. 6 Silica 12.5 Ball clay 10
Neph sy 2 Bentonite 2 Spar 5
Bentonite 3 Total 100 Total 110
Total 100 +Grog (60-80 mesh) 10
Black-brown in oxidation, metallic Shrinkage 10.5%, Plasticity 10.3. Shrinkage 12.5%, plasticity 9.3.
brown-black with iron spots in Light brown w/darker specks in Off-white in oxidation. Light gray
reduction. Wear gloves to use this oxidation. Rich dark brown in in reduction. We tested this at UF. The
clay due to Mn. DO NOT ingest or reduction. neph sy deflocculates the body and
inhale Mn dust. Mn also fumes in
☠
caused serious handling and cracking
firing – TOXIC! problems. Not recommended as is.
Throwing Body Cone 5-6 Orange Throwing Cone 6 Orange Throwing Cone 7-9 ST-27*
Goldart 14 Lizella 20 Jordan 28
Hawthorne (50 mesh) 26 A.P. Green FireClay 15 Monmouth fireclay 30
KY Old Mine 4 20 RedArt 10 Silica 28
RedArt 10 Ball 20 RedArt 28
Flint 10 Neph Sy 20 Total 114
Spar 15 Flint 15 + Barium carb 0.5
Pyrophyllite 5 Total 100 Grog (60 - 80 mesh) <10%
Total 100 Grog to taste
Rust Red cone 5 Casting White Paul Rozman c 2-4 EPK Porcelain Cone 6
RedArt 50 Talc 5 Nepheline Syenite 33
Fire clay 50 Nepheline syenite 30 EPK kaolin 24
Total 100 EPK 23 Silica 30
From Dale A. Neese Kentucky OM #4 22 OM#4 Ball Clay 14
[email protected] Flint 20 Wollastonite 3
Total 100 Total 104
+Barium carbonate 0.03 Bentonite 3
Sodium silicate 0.03 From: Dale A.
Soda ash 0.25 [email protected]
Start 38% water, then add more if
required. From Paul Rozman in CM.
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Arbuckle Midrange Clays
Cone 6 White Casting Adapted Michael Corney==s White Cone 6 Porcelain Casting
Casting cone 6 10,000 gm batch
Flint 23 water 3,500 OM4 Ball 12
Velvacast kaolin 15 soda ash 10 EPK 20
OM4 ballclay 26 sodium silicate 58 Tile 6 24
Neph. Syenite 21 keep mixing: Custer Spar 16
Custer feldspar 15 OM4 ball clay 2500 Frit 3110 9
Total 100 nepheline syenite 1250 Flint 16
Add this to about 37% water (% of Custer feldspar 2500 Total 97
dry weight material) and up to flint 1750 To deflocculate:
0.45% Darvan 7. Specific gravity EPK 2000 Sodiun Silicate 0.20
of around 1.78 works well for us. Mix slowly, sieve after mixing. Grey- Calgon 0.10
From: Dan / Joanne Taylor white in green state, slightly off- NOTE: Calgon is no longer made
[email protected] white fired to temperature. Bob w/soda ash and does not
Bruch [email protected] deflocculate. Test soda ash.
*Recipes from James Chappell@s book The Potter=s Complete Book of Clay and Glazes
Subject: Re: cone 6 clay
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 98 10:51:44 +0100 Fire clay 20
From: Peter Pinnell <
[email protected]> ball clay 20
tile #6 kaolin 25
I don't know a distinct recipe, just some general guidelines. For a cone 6 light flint 10
body you need about 20-25% flux with the rest being clay or a clay/filler Kona f-4 spar 25
combination. Neph sy can work but it will tend to deflocculate the clay unless bentonite 1
it is counteracted with either Epsom salts or calcium chloride. Soda spar or
G-200 will also work, but are not as active so the clay will tend to be a bit
more porous. You can also add just a small amount of talc and that will really tighten up the clay, but at a slightly
heightened risk of cristobalite. The strongest spar/talc eutectic is at a ratio of five or six parts spar to one part talc.
As for clay, it can be "to taste". It will stand up a lot better and crack a lot less if there is some fireclay, though very
much will push the color to buff. Similarly, a little ball clay goes a long way to promote plasticity. Kaolin will give
the whiteness, but you can't use it alone unless you also add some other filler such as flint or pyrophyllite.
If it were me I would start with the following:
This will be pretty off-white (cream to buff), so if they want whiter they will have to accept the lower workability of
a high- kaolin body. They may want to add grog, in which case you could use something like Ione Grain if they want
whiteness without the cost of Molochite. Kona can also cause deflocculation, so a little flocculent (one quarter
percent) might be a good idea. Have them dissolve it first in hot water.
This is just a starting point- they can adjust any of the components to fit their needs.
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