Carlos Hilado Memorial State College
Talisay City, Negros Occidental
College of Education
GRADUATES STUDIES
Student Name : ROXANNE L. DORONILA
Course : MAT-TLE
Subject : Advanced Cosmetology (TLE 508)
Instructor : PROF. ERNELINDA R. EBALDE
UNIT VII
COLD WAVING
INTRODUCTION
Many people tend to get bored of their hairstyles very frequently. Perms are a boon for people
who are ready to experience such bold changes in their hair texture. It adds volume to one’s
limp and flat hair. In order to let go of the non industrious and boring hair and substitute it
with the luscious, curly and dramatic one, cold wave perm has been unearthed.
WHAT IS A COLD WAVE PERM
Cold wave perm is a perming technique that does not undergo heating treatment.
Cold Wave Perm is a hair perming technique whereby the dry hair is sectioned, wrapped and
curled around a plastic rod.
Cold wave perm is a hair perming technique that has been reputed in the salons of Philippines
and many other countries. This solution is different from that used in the process of hot wave
perms.
In case of cold wave perm, the rods used are plastic curlers that produce kinky curls that are
more defined in wet hair. Cold wave perm is comparatively cheaper than digital perm and the
curls produced are smaller and natural.
Cold wave perm rods are quite different from the hot perm rods. Cold wave rods elongate
one’s hair with limited access to heat. The choice of the rod is absolutely at the owner’s
discretion. It depends upon the size and the texture of the curls, which size of the rod has to
be used.
Carlos Hilado Memorial State College
Talisay City, Negros Occidental
College of Education
GRADUATES STUDIES
COLD WAVE HAIR VS DIGITAL PERM
Lets see which is better between Digital Perm and Cold Wave Perm. Digital perming technique
is a procedure of curling where both chemical restructuring and heating treatment is
performed.
The process begins with the sectioning of hair followed by application of the perm solution, it
breaking the chemical structure of the hair.
Each segment is to be rolled and wrapped around curlers set to a machine. It is left to be set
at various lengths and kinds. The second set of chemicals are applied and the rods are
removed.
Digital perming results in soft and big curls that are more defined when the hair is dry unlike
cold wave perm. Digital perms use extreme heat which is a reason why not all kinds of perms
can be performed following this procedure.
They are more expensive than cold wave perm and take longer time as well. Producing more
natural curls, the hair becomes soft and shiny as well. Digital perms are ideal for Asian hair.
On the contrary, cold wave perms do not include any heating treatment in their procedure.
They are not as expensive as digital perms and are more defined in wet hair. The rods are
quite different from the hot perm rods.
HISTORY
It's thought that the first person to produce a practical thermal perming method was Marcel
Grateau back in 1872. German hairdresser Karl Nessler took the process further with a curling
hair method that reportedly used cow urine and water. Also involved in the process were
heavy brass rollers and caustic soda applied straight on to the hair.
By 1930, the process of permanent waves was well established, with many middle-class
women in the UK having their hair 'set' every few months. In 1938, the cold wave - essentially
the precursor to the modern wave we are familiar with - was invented by Arnold F Willatt in
1938. In an innovative development, no machines or heat were used, although a 'reduction
lotion' broke down the polypeptide bonds in the hair.
In the 1970s, acid perms were invented. These ammonia-free perms, sometimes called
buffered waves, use glyceryl monothioglycolate instead of ammonia.
Carlos Hilado Memorial State College
Talisay City, Negros Occidental
College of Education
GRADUATES STUDIES
London, October 8, 1906. German hairdresser Karl Ludwig Nessler, best known as Charles
Nestlè (in those days a pinch of Parisian charm was indispensable for success in the field of
coiffure), performs the first "official" perm in his beauty salon on Oxford Street in front of a
crowd of colleagues. The exceptional model was the wife of the inventor himself Katharina
Laible, a courageous woman obviously in love with her husband and a lover "at all costs,"
since she had come out of previous experiments with burnt hair and skin.
Cold wave was invented by Arnold F. Willatt in the year 1938. The hair was to be wrapped
around rods followed by the application of a reduction lotion containing ammonium
thioglycolate.
Perming Product
Products required for a cold wave perm include chemical solution, neutralizer and other
necessary products to perform the perm.
Heating rods are not required in the process due to which it is comparatively safer for one’s
hair.
Perming Tools
1. Perming rods- Sometimes referred to as perm rollers or cold wave rod sets, perm rods
are hair curlers that come in a variety of sizes as well as in different colors that make it easier
to distinguish one size from the next. Basic perm rods are made with durable plastic. Each rod
has a fastener – usually soft but durable elastic – to keep it in place once hair has been
wrapped around the plastic portion.
2. Flexi Rods - are the key to getting flawless curls on natural hair. ... (Although if you need to
dry fast, you can sit under a hood dryer, which is less harsh on the hair.) The
bendable rods come in different sizes that you can select based on the results you're seeking:
the thinner the rod, the tighter the curl.
3. Hair roller or hair curler - is a small tube that is rolled into a person's hair in order to curl it,
or to straighten curly hair, making a new hairstyle. The diameter of a roller varies from
approximately 0.8 inches (20 mm) to 1.5 inches (38 mm).
4. Applicator bottle - an angled nozzle for easy application and graduations on the side up to
260 ml for easy measurement.
5. Neutralizing sponges - suitable for perming and tinting applications.
6. Neck - shaped tray for collecting fixing lotion.
Carlos Hilado Memorial State College
Talisay City, Negros Occidental
College of Education
GRADUATES STUDIES
How to do a Cold Wave Perm
In the olden days, women used to set their perms with the help of wooden curlers. In the
present era, there are no less tools to add perms to one’s hair. Cold wave perm differs from
the modern perm in heating treatment.
In case of cold wave perm, no heat is provided to one’s hair. This is one of the reasons people
find it easy to perform cold wave perm at home.
1. Rinse: Hair has to be washed applying adequate amount of shampoo in order to let go of
any dirt, greasiness or oil present in the hair. Performing the perm on clean hair helps to get
the perm in the best way.
2. Winding: The hair has to be pinned around the heat rods. Hair has to be secured around
the curlers. It must be ensured that all the segments of hair has been curled and secured in a
proper direction.
3. Perm Solution: It is time for the application of the thioglycolic acid lotion (perm solution) to
the hair for enabling the hair to take the shape of the curlers. The function of the
perm solution is to break the protein chains of the hair as a consequence of which, the hair
undergoes changes in shape.
4. Rest: Adequate time has to be provided to the hair to absorb the shape of the curls and the
chemicals from the lotion. After ten minutes of rest, it has to be rinsed making sure the proper
elimination of the perm solution.
5. Neutralizer: The second chemical that is the neutralizing lotion is to be applied that
functions as a cross link of the solution that helps hair take the shape of the curlers.
6. Removal of rods: The rods have to be removed after around five to six minutes and hair has
to be washed through cold water.
Hair Analysis
There are different ways to change the texture of hair and they usually include chemical
treatments. Perming and neutralizing are some of the common treatments available. Before
you apply any chemical on a client’s hair, it is important to carry out tests. These tests will
help to determine if the client’s hair can withstand the process and the results that can be
expected. You should be careful to explain to the client the importance of the tests and how
they will determine the desired results.
Carlos Hilado Memorial State College
Talisay City, Negros Occidental
College of Education
GRADUATES STUDIES
Porosity test
This test helps to determine the condition of the cuticle or the outer layer of the hair shaft.
Damaged cuticle becomes porous, as it has lost the natural protection. When the perming
chemicals are used on hair that is porous, the absorption is uneven and it can result in uneven
curls. There are special perming products for hair that has been tinted or highlighted. These
products are not as strong as those for natural hair, making them less likely to over-process
the hair.
The Float Test: Take a couple of strands of hair from your comb or brush and drop them into
a bowl of water. Let them sit for 2-4 minutes. If your hair floats, you have low porosity. If it
sinks, you have high porosity.
Hair with low porosity has a tightly bound cuticle layer with overlapping scales that lay flat.
This type of hair is usually considered healthy, and is often very shiny, especially when it's
dark in color.
High porosity can be either an inherent property of hair or the result of damage from chemical
processing, rough treatment or environmental damage.
Elasticity test
This test is carried out to check the strength of the hair or the cortex. If the hair has gone
through several chemical treatments, it is likely to have lost a lot of the natural strength.
Frequent chemical treatments damage the hair. It is important to carry out this test before
perming hair because weak hair can stretch and break off. If the hair is in good condition, it
will stretch but return to the original length.
Incompatibility test
It is important to note that some chemicals do not react well when used with others. Using a
product that is incompatible with another can result in a bad hair reaction. Some products
used for coloring hair contain metallic salts that do not work well with other chemicals. If the
client is not sure about the type of coloring products used, it is important to carry out this test
to find out if it will affect the results of the perming.
Pre-perm test curl
Before treating fragile or porous hair, it is important to carry out a strand test. It is a good
idea to process and neutralize a small section of the hair especially if the hair has been treated
previously. Testing this small section will help to determine the best product strength and rod
size to use, as well as establish the ideal processing time. The test will determine if the hair is
suitable for the process and give a good indication of the results of the perming process.
Carlos Hilado Memorial State College
Talisay City, Negros Occidental
College of Education
GRADUATES STUDIES
During the perming process, it is important to carry out a test curl to find out how the hair is
reacting. The testing will determine if the desired results have been reached. The process
requires inspecting a section of the hair by unwinding the curler to see the results. It is
important to wear gloves before touching the hair. Testing curls from different parts of the
head will help to ensure that you get a result that is even. Remember, perms tend to process
much faster on warm days and the temperature of the salon will also affect the results.
Cold Wave Perm for Black Hair
Perms are chosen based on the hair quality, texture and length. Black hair may be curly, kinky
or wavy or even a combination of so many textures.
People often try attempting cold wave perm when they want their hair to relax in order to
maintain a straight hairstyle. One must find out a hair stylist who is well versed in black hair.
Perms usually contribute to dryness and frizz of the hair naturally so in case of such hair, extra
moisturizing must be done. This step is taken before the application of neutralizer as the hair
shaft is open in order to receive moisture.
Precautions after Cold Wave Perm
Getting a perm may feel easier but maintaining it can be a difficult task. Certain factors must
be considered before and after receiving the cold wave perm. One must be ready for a lot
more investments on hair products including after perm serums and conditioners and sulfate
free shampoos.
Carlos Hilado Memorial State College
Talisay City, Negros Occidental
College of Education
GRADUATES STUDIES
1. The hair must not be washed through a shampoo before 48 hours after receiving the
perm.
2. A lot of moisturizing must be done in order to sustain the moisture presence in the hair.
Hydrating shampoos and moisturizers must be used.
3. It is advisable to wear a silk scarf to bed so as to avoid any sort of reshaping or
damage.
4. Cold wave perms are high maintenance perms.
5. Use of curlers and straighteners must be avoided.
6. The hair must not be brushed or combed hardly or very frequently specially in the
beginning days after the perm.
7. The hair must be left in its shape rather than wrapping it frequently in ponytail, braids
or buns. This will result in losing the shape.
8. Getting frequent perms will result in hair damage.
Carlos Hilado Memorial State College
Talisay City, Negros Occidental
College of Education
GRADUATES STUDIES
9. No alcohol products must be used for the hair in order to avoid frizz.
[Link] tips and product recommendations must be taken from the stylist.
[Link] shampoo to be used must be sulfate free.
If the perm has not been done in a proper way, it will result in extreme hair loss and fragile
hair. It is because of the breakage of the disulfide bonds through chemical reduction.
The hair shafts get fractured and may even lead to temporary hair loss. Therefore, one must
make sure that the entire process has been performed carefully.
Conclusion
Cold wave perms are comparatively safer than hot perms. Heating treatment results in frizz
and damaged cuticles followed by extremely delicate strands. Not only this, cold wave perm
require lesser time as compared to digital perm and is lesser expensive too. However, it may
last for around three to six months only and the solution employed in the process includes
chemical responsible for fractured and fragile hair.
