LASTING

LASTING AND BOTTOM MAKING

INSOLE

PREPARATION (hand welted).

The selection & preparation of the insole depends upon the type of shoe to be made.
Welted insoles should have a tough fiber soles to hold the seam and must be firm & solid so
as act to spread in wear. The minimum thickness of insole should be 2.2mm.

PURPOSE OF INSOLE:

On the insole upper & welt are fastened together and is responsible for keeping the
welted shoe together.

PURPOSE OF INSOLE CHANNELING:

The hold-fast obtained by channeling the insole receives the welt seam and guides
the course of welt round the insole and makes it to set into the channel of insole and also
protects the thread of inside groove.

SPECIFICATION FOR MARKETING THE INSOLE FOR CHANNELING;

The width of the cutter lip of the insole channel varies to make allowances for
stiffeners, toe puff and the particular style of the shoe to be made. The specification for
making insole, therefore, depends on factors which are variable for instance a thicker leather
requires a wider distance from the edge the thickness of other leather lining, reinforcement,
stiffener, toe puff, the type of the construction made are taken into account. The ability to
draw correct specification, therefore, can be required through exercise & experience. for the
ordinary welted shoe the following specification may suffice.

MARKING OUTSIDE FEATHER LINE.

Mark the length of heel as ¼ of insole length minus 12 mm across the insole. The 12
mm allowance is entered for horse shoe joint. Start the edge mark for insole channeling
from there as below:-

1. Make a mark of 8mm at inside waiste; continue the distance gradually reducing it
to 4mm at inside ball from the edge.
2. Continue the above line gradually increasing to 5mm at the cut side waist.

CHANNELLING THE OUT SIDE LINE ;

 A short pointed knife is held between thumb & fingers like a pencil and a cut is
made approx to ½ of the depth of the thickness of insole. The cut is then open wide with a
channel opener. After this an open channel is formed by remove the material up to the
depth of the cut by insole ranging knife.

MARKING THE INNER LINE:

Adjust a distance of 8mm on a divider and guide the divider along the cut step to
result in a 8mm line parallel to the outside feather line. Make a cut up to 1/3 of the
thickness of the insole. The cut is opened wide with a channel opener and channel is made
in the same manner as in the outside. Care should be exercised not to have a deep cut
which will result as otherwise in the subsequent operation of welt stitching and may tear
off the hold fast (the ridge which is formed as a result of channeling on both the side is
termed as hold fast).

STICH MARKING ON HOLD FAST:

Usually 3 stitches are made per 2.54cm for gent’s welted work. First the distance of
stitches is marked on the hold fast. The direction of stitches is of great importance here. A
correct direction result in stronger welt stitching. The marking for stitching should be made
5 to 6 degree ahead at right angle to the hold fast. The awl is then held in right hand and the
cutting edge is aimed at the bottom of the inside channel of the hold fast. The right hand is
then lifted and the awl is pushed through into the outside of the hold fast without twisting
it. For this reason the edge of the awl should always be kept starp so that it can pierce
easily and does not result in the big holes.

LASTING:

Lasting is the process by which the upper is stretched and molded on the last
with a series of pulls taken in such a way that uniform tension is setup and the molding is
so balanced that when eventually the last is slipped of the shoe it retains the shape given to
it during the entire period of its life.

Lasting now-a-days is mostly done by machine. Lasting by machine is essential

where the daily production is high. The principles of lasting for hand or machine is the
same besides knowledge of hand drafting and lasting would help the machine operator
considerably to obtain better result. In our country most of small and average
manufacturers adopt hand lasting.

PRINCIPLES OF LASTING:

The art of lasting lies in reproducing the shape and characteristic of last in a finished
shoe in such a way that the shape is also retained while being worn. This is obtained by
suitably stretching and molding the material over the last. A material can not be lasted
unless among other things the material stretches sufficiently.
 Materials like leather, rubber etc. Have sufficient type of stretches in them. So it
would be worth while to know about these stretches. e.g. If a strip of 15.25cm of such
material is taken and one end is tacked a table and the other and then pulled it would be
seen that the original length has been exceeded by say 1.97cm but this extended portion
would not stay long after the pulling force has been released.

It will be notice that after some time the extension is only 1.27cm or so and this
would stay permanent. This little experiment shows that there are two different type of
stretch is that which recovered its original shape or length i.e. 0.64cm this is known as
elastic stretch. The other stretch is the portion which did not recover its original shape or
length i.e. 1.27cm portion and this stretch is known as plastic stretch or rather known as
“set” portion.

It is desirable that foot wear should always retain the manufactured shape for this
reason, it is necessary that the upper should be lasted beyond its elastic limit so that as
long as it remains on the last it may slowly assume the shape of the last due to its elastic
nature.

It will be seen that if the last is removed from a lasted upper within a few minutes of
the lasting, the upper will return to its un-lasted shape except over the toe and counter
where the leather has been stretched most and also the toe puff and stiffener help these
portion to retain the shape i.e. Over most of the upper it did not have time to take up the
shape of the last and that is the reason why it is always best to keep the shoes on the last as
long as possible, the lowest limit of this time being the time taken for the toe puff and
stiffener to dry hard.
After the shoe has dried completely and a permanent set has been assumed the
upper will not loose its shape when temporarily deformed i.e. when worn due to elastic
nature.

In other words the process of lasting takes the stretch out of the leather but the
stretches here only refer to the elastic stretches the material of a completed shoe should be
elastic in nature but during manufacture plasticity is required i.e. Once formed into the
shape of shoe the material is required to possess the vary opposite property i.e. Elasticity.

AMOUNT OF STRAIN FOR DIFFERENT UPPER MATERIALS:

The amount of strain to which and upper should be subjected while giving lasting
pulls depends upon the materials as well as the design of the upper.

There are many different type of leather used for making upper, each differ from the
other either in nature, quality, substance or characteristics. This implies that in lasting
each material should be given particular attention so that under straining or over straining
does not result and also that the peculiarity or the characteristics of particular leather not
lost.
 Leather is composed of fibers closely interlocked together. The more closer and
dense these fibers are the more strain they will generally stand if insufficient strain is
applied in lasting the fibers of the leather remain uninfluenced and will very quickly
loose its shape and over strained the fibers will be less durable besides distorting the
design of the upper. It is actually the removable of surplus stretch that imparts a life or
elasticity into the material. The following considerations should therefore, be made for
the following types of leathers:

1. PATENT LEATHER OR FACED LEATHERS:

These types of leathers are dressed or coated with enamel or linseed oil finished and
therefore, has a hard shiny surface. This surface would tend to crack if the leather is
stretched unduly obviously because the coated surface is less stretchy then the leather.

2. GLACE KID:

It stands a fair amount of strain but if strained too severely it becomes

distorted and the pores get opened.

3. PRINTED OR EMBOSSED LEATHER:

Printed or embossed leather which are made in imitation of natural grained leather should
not be severely or over strained as under serve strained these materials are likely to loose
the pattern of grain given to it.

4. MATERIALS LIKE BUCK SKIN:

They are very soft and stretchy such material itself stand a great amount of
pulling and are strong in wear owing to their elastic nature though this materials stand a
great amount of pulling yet it needs a careful handling in lasting as any undue strain will
cause distortion both to material as well as to the design of the upper. As a general rule, a
stout unyielding material requires more strain on the lighter material comparatively.

PREPERATION OF THE UPPER:

LACING THE TABS:

The first operation is “Tying over” or lacing the tabs. Though this is a minor
operation yet it is of major consequence. If the lacing is to loose it will cause the vamp line
to be lasted away in the waist and the bottom of the tabs will fall below the instep point
making the shoe smaller in fitting and the back of the shoe may also sink low then in
intended by the designer because the resistance is taken away from the instep. If on the other
hand the lacing is done too tight the result will be just reverse.

It is usual to leave some space while lacing between the tabs to allow the
wearer to lace tight over the instep and obtained a good fit round the ankle. But it is very
essential to maintain uniform distances between the tabs in all the uppers otherwise it will
result in different fittings in the same range or quality of production. The actual distance to
be left between the tabs is dependent upon the design. For an ordinary oxford shoe usually
4mm is left over and 10mm for a derby shoe.

STIFFENER INSERTION:

The next operation is stiffener insertion. A leather stiffener is generally used for
hand lasting. The operation commences by mellowed the skived stiffener and a paste is
applied over the stiffener on both the sides except on the edge which is to be lasted over.
The stiffener is then inserted in between the upper and lining keeping the grain side of the
stiffener towards the lining. The height of the stiffener is positioned about 2mm below the
edge of the upper. The lining is then cleared off the wrinkles.

The point considered in determining the height of the stiffener is that it would be
kept high enough to give all the necessary support to the seat portion of the shoe but not
high enough to prevent the top edge of the quarters from fittings snugly around the wall of
the last. In length, an ideal stiffener should extend far enough into the waist to reproduce in
a completed shoe the various lines, curves and characteristics of the back part of the last
being worked upon. In some cases the design and stitching of upper prevents a proper length
of the stiffener being used, in that case details sacrificed for fashion sake.

TOE PUFF:

The toe puff is either inserted at this stage and is then lasted together with the upper while
going doing toe lasting or is lasted separately after seat lasting of the shoe and when dried
and buffed the upper is lasted over it. In this method toe lasting becomes easier and results
in uniform & finer work.

Before insertion, the toe puff is mellowed and the paste is applied on both the sides. In a
capped shoe the toe puff insertion is easier, it should reinforce the whole of the cap without
any break between the edge of the toe puff and machine line of the cap. For a plain front
work the toe puff should be positioned to the shape of the last. Carried back for enough over
the toe to hide itself into the curvature of the last making it invisible from the out side, but
not so far as interfere with the bending of foot.
POSITIONING THE UPPER ON THE LAST AND DRAFTING:

A last to which a proper insole has been attached is taken and the laster commences by
imagining a central line on the last and positioning the upper in such a way that the sections
of the upper come to their corresponding parts on the last. This method is known as
“Hoisted method”.

The advantage of this method is that it results in snugly fitting of the top of quarter around
the wall of the last, while doing seat lasting. This method is also suitable for upper which
are tight in length or girth where the laster is compelled to get insufficient amount of lasting
material. But an excessive hoist should not be used as otherwise it may result in over
staining of material.

The next stage in lasting is “Drafting”: This means taking the initial stretch out of the upper
and to give it the nearest shape of the last in preparation to the lasting. Usually, twelve main
stretches are taken for drafting as below:-

FIRST DRAFTING PULL:

After the upper has been positioned on the last, it is turned upside down and is put on the
lasting jack. If the upper is lined, first the lining is cleared off the wrinkles by giving a light
pull with hand pincer then both the lining and the upper are held with pincer at a central
position of the toe and a first forward pull is taken.

While taking pull no sharp jack should be applied only a forward pull giving a rather
lengthy drawn out strain should be taken. Only that much of strain should be applied which
does not result either in distortion of the design or material of the upper?

After taking this pull the overlaid portion is held by left thumb, not allowing the material to
slip back and a tack is driven half way through the insole with the help of the hammer head
of the pincer.

B) SECOND & THIRD PULL:

These pulls are taken on both sides of the toe near the point where the edge of the cap or toe
puff comes. These pulls are given in lengthwise director as well as across the last, with a
view to conform the vamp portion to the shape of the last. The lengthwise strain should be
taken first then with a twist pincer movement” (with altering the portion of pincer) the upper
should be brought over the side of the last and secured with tacks. Care should be taken to
given an equal strain on both the side. If pulled harder on one side then the other, the upper
becomes twisted and distorted. The last at this stage is taken off the jack and if the upper is
found properly positioned, further pulls are continued.

C) FOURTH PULL:

It is taken at the back. Care should be exercised to maintain a suitable height of the quarter,
if too much is lasted over; the back of the shoe will be too low. If too little is taken over it
will result in a high quarter and the shoe will bite into the back of the heel in wear. It is
advisable to mark the height of the back on the entire last for the designs to be made over.
Then this results in uniform heights.

While taking over the pull it should be seen that the lining is cleared off the wrinkles and
then the portion laid over together with the upper should be secured with tack. The
advantage of the hoisted method is very much implicit here. When the upper is pulled over
the last. It will be noticed that it has resulted in an added pull to quarter top line allowing it
to fit on the wall of the last which ultimately gives a good fit on the foot.
D) FIFTH & SIXTH PULL:

The fifth and sixth pulls are given at the corner of the stiffeners. These pulls should not be
taken just upwards because otherwise the quarter top line will be pulled down the shoes will
lose its shape resulting in gaping quarter. These pulls are a little complex and the method
should be followed as follows:-

1. First the lining should be cleared of any looseness and the top edge of the quarter
should come tight along with sides of the last.

2. Next, take the stiffener with the pincer, giving it a pull first towards the joint, then
upward the around the curvature of the seat, to obtain the correct lasting stiffener and
quarter together and with a twist pincer movement pull around the curvature of the seat over
the further and secure it with tack.

E) SEVENTH AND EIGHT PULL:

The next pull is No. 7 and 8 which are taken generally near the joints. These pulls are taken
from the direction of the toe to take the surplus material away from the waist.

The above eight strains are the main drafting pulls on which depends the look of ultimate
shoe. Besides this, a few clearance pulls are taken in between the above strains to ensure
better results.

F) NINTH AND TENTH PULL:

These strains are taken between pull No. 2, 3 and 7 and 8 to ensure that the vamp bends
down to the wood of the last to give a better look and fit on the foot,

G) ELEVENTH AND TWELFTH PULL:

These two final strains are taken below the waist, to ensure that the upper here bends down
at the hollow portion of the last, but care should be taken to see that while doing this quarter
top line is not disturbed.
It is advisable at this stage to check the upper whether the cap line, the back strep etc. are all
central and straight, if not, they can be readjusted.

LASTING: after this follows the process of lasting which is generally sub-divided into three
operations:-

1) TOE LASTING
2) SEAT LASTING
3) SIDE LASTING.
 TOE LASTING:

The upper, toe puff and lining can be lasted together or individually for easiness of
operation and fineness of work. In the former method the toe puff is inserted while drafting
and in the latter at the time of the toe lasting. This method is described here:-

a) First in order insert toe puff, the drafting tacks no. 1, 2 and 3 are removed; the upper
along with the lining is lifted and turned back.

b) Than French chalk is applied on the last at toe portion; to obviate any chance for the toe
puff adhesive to penetrate, throw the lining. The lining is then pulled and no. 1, 2 and 3
tacks are again repositioned to secure the overlaid position of the lining and are lasted by
giving small pleats on either side of tack no. 1. after lasting the edge of the lasted material
is skived. The toe puff on which the paste has been applied on both the sides is correctly
inserted and a small hand tack is driven at the top of the toe puff to secure it. The toe puff
is first dratted by repositioning the drafting tack no. 1, 2 and 3 and the surplus no. 1 the toe
puff then dried is smoothened down by a wood rasp file and is brought into the shape. The
lasting tacks are taken out and the edge is skived and the upper is then lasted in the similar
manner in its correct position.

SEAT LASTING:

The next stage after drafting is to complete the lasting. In doing so, it is best to finish
it from one side. Generally seat is lasted first. The lasting is started from one side of tack
(pull No. 4) by first clearing the lining, than given a light pull to the upper and stiffener
respectively. All three are than held with the pincer, a light pull give and six twisted
sideways towards tack No. 4 from which a little pleat. The entire seat is complete in this
manner.

SIDE LASTING:

The lasting is now done on the sides and waist portion. The pulls applied here should
not have more strains than given in drafting.

After the lasting is over, the counter and too are hammered to bring the counter of
the last.

WELT STITCHING

Next comes the operation of welt stitching. There are certain pre-requisite for welt
stitching which are as follows:-
1) WAXING THE THREAD :-

The thread should be properly waxed; was mixed with resign (waxed thread) is very
ideal for the purpose. Proper application of wax keeps the cords together. Reduces friction
and splitting of thread while stitching and also insures that holes ate completely filled and
gives a positive adhesion between thread and leather.

2) WELT AWL :

The selection of proper awl for sewing welt is very important. The thickness of the
beck of awl should be less than double the thickness of the so as to pass through the hold
fast cozily and results in piercing the upper at right place. The width of the cutting edge
should also be in relation with the thickness of thread and material.

3) WELT STITCHING:

The welt is first beveled at an angle of 45, this is done on the flesh side downwards
on a wooden a tick and pulling it with left the right fore-finger acting as a guide. The end of
the welt is then skived to a width of 12 mm for horse shoe attachment.

Welt stitching :

The shoe is now positioned on the knees keeping the toe out wards and the leather
stirrup over the heel which is held tight under the foot.

Next the awl is pierced from the first whole of the holed fast at the feather edge of
the lasted upper on the left hand side. The thread is then hocked and drawn in to the inside,
of the hold fast.

After this the welt is placed with its beveled is edge close to the feather edge of the
lasted upper and the first stitch is made. Over lapping the welt and the next stitches
automatically is on the welt.

In this process, the awl passes through the hold first, upper and bevel of welt. It is
important the holed the welt close and tight to the upper with the left thumb and fingers
while awl is being passed through otherwise it is pushed away rather than being pierced.

Care should be taken that all the stitches come in the grooves of the welt. While
pulling the thread after loop formation it is advisable to use hand leather and haft to get
more pressure. Also at the time of formation of loop, the previous stitches should be
tightened. The knots should come in the centre of the holdfast.

In this way, the sewing is continued round the shoes, the welt being continually
pulled between thy left thumb and forefinger so as to prevent looseness. The shoe is
gradually turned when bearing toe, this means that the strip is alter from to time to time.

When the last stitch has been made the welt is tapped in to the feather with hammer.
The nails with which the insole has been attached are taken out and the un-necessary upper
leather extending inside the welt is trimmed off. The welt then smoothened flat with the
tapering and off the sleeking stick.
WELT TRIMMING:

The welt is now trimmed to the required finish shape leaving the little allowance for
trimming in finished department ordinarily the width of a gents welt shoe after furnishing is
about 5 to 6 mm. so at this stage it is kept about 7 mm and a little less at inside waist.

SHANK AND HORSE SHOE ATTACHING PURPOSE:

In a low heeled gents shoe it is just a moot point whether a shank is really necessary
except as a form of bottom filling but when the heal acquires height it is vary essential to
insert a shank for giving support to the arched curvature of the last and the narrowness of
the width of sole and insole at this part. Further by stiffening this part of the shoe the
flexible properties are known forwards to the joints where the foot bends in walking.

INSERTION OF SHANK :

The shank should extend just behind the heel to a point just behind the tread line.
The shank should be attached with two or three small hand tacks 7.937 mm as the bigger
tacks are likely to be driven in to the last (as because the welted lasts are without iron plate),
and may result in difficulty when taking out the last. It is vary essential to bevel the edge s
of shanks especially at the front so as to give prominence to tread of the shoe.
BOTTOM FILLING:
The shoes are generally made by lasting the upper and scouring it to an insole. This
cases some cavity owing to the thickness of upper leather, stiffener and toe puff. This cavity
is all the more prominent in welt construction owing to the thickness of welt. Various
materials such as waste leather pieces, cork sheets, saw dust and are used.
The purpose of bottom filling to fill up the cavity as well as to obtain a light convex
shape of the fore part is to represent the natural shape of the last so as to allow a rocking
movement to the foot. Thus, a proper bottom filling should clearly define the forepart, shank
portion of the shoe, in natural way as represented in the last. If the bottom filling is not
properly done or the cavity is left over, the shape of the sole will be damaged.

SOLE ATTACHING:

The sole is now prepared for attaching be first skiving out the waist on the flash side.
The amount to be skived depends upon the types of the sole and size ordinarily a 22mm
skiving from the edge of inside waist and about 20mm at the edge of the outside waist
suffices for the purpose. The skiving should converge to the edge toward the end. In this
way the shank and waist portion are clearly defined which adds to the beauty of the shoe.

SOLE CHANNELING AND STITCHING :

Prior to making channel a making maybe made to ensure to correct width of

the channel. This is based on the distance of stitches from the edge of the welt. Sometimes
the width of the channel is so adjusted that its shoulder is trimmed off in finishing leaving
no mark of channel in a finished shoe. But as the lip of channel comes vary close to the edge
it may entail the danger of splitting while walking special if the channel is deep. Ordinarily
an approximation to following.

SPECIFICATION MAY SUFFICE.

The lip of the channel should starts from 4 mm and should end at 6 mm in forepart
and for this purpose two lines are marked on at 4 mm and the other 6 mm.
In the outside waist the distance of lip should be increased from 5 to 7 mm at inside
waist the distance of lip should be increase from 7 to10 mm. This is necessitated on account
of the change in the portion of welt here. The channel making is started by positioning the
shoe on the knees with the toe towards the operator is started from the right hand side just
beyond the joint of horse shoe and as the making is continued right around to other side, the
shoe is slowly turned.

After this, the channeling is done by keeping the shoe in a similar position of the
point of the knife is pierced at an angle 45˚ at the marking to the deft of 1/3 of the substance
of the sole. It is important to do the channeling continues in one stroke and the knife should
not the taken out until the channeling is completed otherwise it entails the danger of double
cut of distortion of lip.

The channel is then opened by a channel opener or form the reverse or blunt edge of
the knife in a damp conditions and the stitching is started. Ordinarily for a gent's welted
shoe 10 stitches per inch are made and at the inside waist 6 stitches per inch. The knot of the
stitches should be formed right into the base of the channel otherwise the stitches leave
impression in a finished shoe.
After the stitching, the lip of the channel is closed while it is damped. The channel is
further set closed by rubbing the edge setter against the edge of the sole. It is advisable to
rub the edge setter slightly tilting over the edge so that the edges may not become bulky. For
this reason care should also be taken that the edges are not too damp.

BOTTOM LEVELLING:

Sole leveling is done to remove any distortion which might have occurred in the
level of sole while stitching. The sole while in slight damp condition is leveled to conform
to the characteristic of the bottom as obtained in the operation of bottom filling. The
forepart and the shank are closely defined. The forepart is made little convex to allow the
rocking movement of the foot. The edge of the inside waist is hammered down to the upper,
producing a beautiful light rounded waist.

In this operation, the shoe is positioned on the lasting jack and the shape of the
sole is brought about by hammering and is smoothened down by the handle of the sleeking
stick. After the operation is over, the surplus leather which might have extended over the
welt is trimmed off.
SKIVING OF STIFFENER AND TOE PUFF.

For hand work leather stiffener are extensively used. A thickness of about 2 mm
for the purpose of a good stiffener is required but this may not be final by itself. The cement
or adhesive applied on it has lot to do with the determination of the thickness, because of
their different intrinsic quality which gives a certain amount of reinforcement to the
stiffener.

PURPOSE:

The purpose for the insertion of the stiffener is to give a support for maintaining
the back shape of the shoe and for keeping the joint in forward position while in walking
posture. Similarly toe puff is intended to reproduce the shape of the last and to keep the toe
away from de-shaping.

STIFFENER SKIVING:

The bottom edge as well as the top edge of the stiffener is skived. The purpose of
bottom edge skiving is to facilitate lasting while of the top edge is to hide the presence of
the stiffener in the upper and to obviate any discomfort to foot by sharp edge chafing etc. or
friction.

The top edge of the stiffener is skived in such a manner that it gradually comes to
a thin edge so as to invisible and smooth in a finished shoe.

It is important that the stiffener is skived to the very tip and so also that it
gradually merges into the lines along the side of the shoe without any abrupt termination.
Skiving is usually done on the flesh side unless it is a very hard gained stiffener that is liable
to cut through the quarters of the shoe in wear, and then both sides may be skived to
advantage. But the material should not be rendered weak. It should give all necessary
support to the heel portion of the shoe. It is also important that the width of bottom edge
skiving is such that while it is lasted the base line of the skiving is brought over to the
feather edge of the seat, leaving the skived material to be lasted over. There can be a certain
amount of variation in lying in design etc. but, the basic principles remain same .Below an
example of specification for gents work( handmade) is given.

1. The top edge of the stiffener is skived on the flesh approximately 2/3 of the
thickness of leather to a width of 8 mm and the grain side is very slightly skived to a width
of 5 mm. This renders the edge very thin. The purpose of skive of the grain side edge is that
to render (i) smooth unseen edge from upper (ii) bottom adhesion to prevent the grain side
from curling towards inside, which may damage the foot when the lining wears out.

2. The bottom edge of the stiffener is skived 1/3 of the thickness of leather to a width
of 10 mm.
3. The ends of the stiffener should be skived up to a width of 3 cm to result in a nice
side line of the shoe.
OUTSOLE CHANNELLING

The primary consideration in a channeling outsole is to provide projection for the

thread. A secondary reason is to provide protection for the thread. A secondary reason is to
improve the appearance. Its utility can be stated as below:

a) It protects the stitching from direct abrasive friction and prolongs the life of the
shoe.
b) It allows a more flexible seam as the substance of the bottom is reduced, resulting
in a smaller vertical seam.
c) It provides a direction and position for stitching.
d) Improves the appearance of the bottom.

SPECIFICATION FOR THE CHANNEL:

1. DEPTH: It depends upon the substance and quality of the sole and the method of
attachment. It is generally almost the channel should be made a as deep as possible to result
in a greater covering of the stitches but it should not be so deep as to materially weaken the
sole beneath the stitches. Therefore, lighter the sole the more shallow must be channeled. A
consideration for the type of the seam should also be made. For instance a Blake or Mc-key
seam is more bulky then a stitching seam and therefore, requires a deeper channel to hide
the seam.

TYPES OF CHANNEL:

The following types of channel are common:

This type of channel is termed at split edge. Almost a horizontal lip is cut from
the edge of the sole. It is suitable for light shoes as the lip is not cut very deep. The
advantage in this type of channel is that it gives a very clean finish and no channel line
remains visible. But it is not generally very deep, for fear of channel lips being open apart.

This type of channel generally stays 4-6 mm away from the edge depending upon
the type of construction and requirement. It can be safely made quite deep (with regard to
the quality of the material) as the channel lips are away from the edge of the sole. The
drawback is that the channel line generally remains visible even after finishing this channel
is also termed as 'Stitching Channel'.

It is incision type of channel. A vertical cut is made deep enough to hide the
seam. The example of this type so channel is the channel done by 'Rafflenbeul' M S 200 and
'Forbana' outsole stitches and also by some other outsole stitches fitted with a blade for
simultaneous channel making and stitching. This type of channel is also common in Kanpuri
chappals.

It is generally done in heavy field boots etc. or where the material is harsh or
cannot be easily channeled. The groove should be deep enough to afford protection to the
seam.

This type of channel is termed as screwing channel. It is done where rivets or

screws are required to be holding into the channel. This channel is made shallow and flat for
two reasons:

1. It should be shallow so as to leave a maximum substance for the grip of screw or

rivet.
2. It should be flat so as to allow the knives of screwing machine to cut off the screw
evenly with the surface of the substance of the sole.

The advantage of this channel as is obvious is that it hides screw and rivets and
thereby helps to obtain a better appearance and finish.

SEWING CHANNEL WITH GROOVE.

It is a combination of stitching channel and groove channel. This channel is

especially suitable for seams which are bulky and intended to be formed on a thick sole.
This channel is usually done by machine. It is difficult and cumbersome by hand.

INSOLE PREPARATION FOR LADIES STRAP SANDAL

For preparing the insole of ladies 'strap sandal, one old is generally first lasted to
obtain the positions of the straps which will be overland on insole while lasting. This is
done because the portions on which the straps are overlaid need skiving or some alternative
treatment to accommodate the thickness of the straps.

Procedure:

1. Trace the insole on a piece of paper to obtain the pattern.

2. Fix the insole on the last and last one odd and it and mark the position of the
straps then overlaid on insole.
3. Unlast the upper and transfer the marking on the insole from the insole pattern.
4. These marked positions of the insole should be so sufficiently to accommodate the
straps. Excessive skiving should be avoided as it tends to weaken the insole.
5. A binding on the insole edge of the ladies strap sandal is usually made in the
following way.

a) Apply the solution on the insole edge and on the flesh side of the binding. When
the solution becomes a little dry, the binding is pressed along the edge of the insole
according to the design.

It may, however, not be necessary to prepare the insole in the above manner, in
case the work of marking the pattern has already been done in Designing Section, where it is
appropriate to do as it would represent accurately the design intended by the designer.

b) It may also not be necessary when the straps have been stitched on the lining on
its correct position (in closing room) and the lining is not cut, which is done at a later stage
after completion.

LASTING OF LADIES STRAP SANDLES

As most of the lasts are tin plated lasts the insole is attached with two or three
19.05 mm nails. One at the toe, and the other at the shank and one at the seat. The insole
should be checked around for its accurate placing.

The lasting is started from the inside of the last and the front strap is held with
shoe pincer, and is laid over the insole (at the marked portion) with a slight twist pincer
movement .The same strap is secured at the outside in the same manner starting towards
marked on the insole for lasting.

LASTING OF VELDTSCHOEN

There is a lot of variation in this type of construction but mostly two types are
common:-

a) Seat lasted in (2) Seat out flanged. Taking the variation into account, this process
may be defined as that instead of upper is lasted in, it is turned out and stitched of upper
being lasted in, it is turned out and stitched on the sole.

A beveled edge last is used for this construction. The last for the seat lasted one is
beveled from seat corner to seat corner with a tin at seat, while the last for seat out fanged is
believed all round.

(1) Seat lasted in:

a) A thin insole up to tread line of the last is attached. The insole is beveled at the
tread line and its correctness is checked as usual.

b) The stiffener and the Box toe is inserted between the upper and lining as usual.

c) The upper is positioned on the last and then turned upside down. The back is first
tacked 12.7 mm beyond the feather line and then upper is pulled over; the toe is temporally
secured by five tacks, one at the toe ,two on each side, just below the cap line.

d) The seat now lasted with tacks and riveted.

e) Next, two small cuts are made at the seat joints right and left in the upper for
flanging it out. The tacks are the toe is now removed.
 f) The upper is pulled over again, lasted end secured temporarily with tacks at the
beveled edge. A special pincer having a flat upper jaw with a protruding and flat bottom
jaw is used.

g) The solution is applied on portion of the upper forming lasting allowance and the
edge of the sole. The tacks are gradually removed and the upper is fixed all round n the edge
of the sole from seat corner to sea corner, observing that while using the " rubbing down
stick " all the wrinkles are removed and a wall defined feather line is obtained.

h) Next, the rand is sewn with the upper and sole.

2. Seat out-flanged:

The variation in this process is that instead of 'seat lasted in ' is out flanged all round
and stuck with sole as in forepart .As the seat is not lasted in, no insole is used.

3. The another variation of this construction, a full insole is used. The seat may be
lasted in. The lining and the toe puff are lasted on the insole and are secured on it with
solution. Bottom filling is done with saw dust or cork. The upper is out flanged and fixed
around the sole as in the above process. The hand is also stitched as given in the above
process.

ADHESIVES

An adhesive may be used either for providing a temporary bond for holding the
work pieces together prior to any mechanical fastening operation such as sole laying etc. or
for providing a permanent bond i.e. struck on a soles socks lining etc.

2. Many adhesive are used in shoe trade and the selection of a particular adhesive
depends upon the type of the job it has to do, the following factors should be taken into
consideration:-

a) Time taken for drying.

b) Effect of heat and moisture on the bond.
c) Amount of construction which will occur as the solvent tries out on the place of
the upper.
d) Effect on the rigidity or flexibility of the material.
e) Any deteriorating effect upon the material such as discoloring etc.

Time for setting of bend:

The time taken for forming a bond depends upon the solvent of the adhesive. For
example, an adhesive made with a quickly evaporating solvent will set quickly where water
has been used as a solvent as in flour paste etc. it takes long time to set as the water is slow
evaporating.
Strength of bond:

Different operations require varying strength of bonds immediate and final. Some
operations require a good immediate as well as a good final bond while in others a good
final strength may only be necessary. In some other cases a very strong immediate bond
may be required but a final strength may not be necessary. The following example illustrates
the different types of bond required.

i) Channel closing and lip cementing: A strong immediate stick is required which
should remain strong and durable.

ii) Sole laying: A stronger and immediate bend strength is required but there is no
need for strong adhesive once the sole is stitched in position.

Broadly speaking a good adhesive should have the following qualifications:-

a) Strength
b) Flexibility
c) Heat and moisture resistance and
d) Ease of application.

METHOD OF USE:

Wet stick or closed assembly:

when adhesive is applied in wet condition to one or both the surface and a joint is
immediate made. In such assembly it is necessary that one or both the surfaces should be of
porous substance so that the solvent may get penetrated from the cement and adhesive could
take place. Examples of wet assembly are glue, starch paste, gum etc. When dry they are not
tacky, hence they are applied while wet.

Dry stick or (open assembly :

In this method the adhesive is applied on both the surface and is left open to dry so
that the solvent could evaporate. Both the adhesive coated surface are brought together and
pressed immediately adhesion takes place which approximates to the final strength. This
does not happen in "wet stick methods". The examples of "dry stick methods" .the examples
of "dry stick methods" are Rubber solution, Latex etc. When after application their solvent
evaporates, they are just sickly, the surfaces are then put together and pressed, and adhesion
thus takes place.

In both the above methods a slight modification is also followed as under:-

1) Wet stuck or closed Assembly:

The original cement films are applied on both the surface and allowed to dry
completely, before making the bond one of the adhesive surface is reactivated with solvent
and a joint is then made immediately.
 2) Dry stick or open Assembly:

The adhesive coated surface are allowed to dry but are re-activated with beat;
usually from infra red lamps and a bond is made while the films are still hot.

Following are some of the variety of adhesive used in the footwear industry:-
a) Water paste:
i) These are made from flour and starch; or maize wheat etc. these are the cheapest
and most common adhesive and are applied by wet stick method. Those are suitable for
joining of fibrous and absorptive materials. Such adhesive are easy to use but heat and
moisture reduce their bond. They are non inflammable .Blue virtual (copper sulphate) is
added as preservative against insects such as rats etc.

ii) Dextrin’s: Dextrin is obtained when starch is roasted in the presence of an acid
material; a chemical action takes place resulting in more readily soluble product. Dextrin
can be easily dissolved in water and produces and solution of high concentration. Its
methods of use and draw backs are more or less same as of the other water pastes described
above.

b) Glues:
Glues are made from bone, fish and gelatin etc. Animal glues are cheap and
economical in use and yields good bond. Here also heat and moisture destroys the bond.
Their main value in shoe trade adhesive is activities to natural rubbing for stabilization and
improvement of tack and adhesion to non-ferrous surface.

c) Rubber solution:
This is prepared by dissolving pieces of crape in any one of the solvents Napta,
Benzene or Petrol. The solvents are highly inflammable. The solution is applied cold and
dries out quickly. It’s mode of application is 'dry stick' or open assembly. The adhesive
surface is pressed together when it is semi-dry. Heat and moisture does not affect readily. It
is costlier than water pastes and glues.

d) Latex:
This is made from rubber sap by mixture of liquid ammonia solution, the thicker the
solution, the greater the bond strength. It can join leather to leather.

e) Neoprene cement:
This cement is prepared by dissolving Neoprene in suitable solvent. This is a
synthetic rubber. This has high bond strength. It is reactivated (by heat) before the two
surfaces are put together under pressure for yielding a bond. Once it is stuck and dried, heat
and moisture has no effect on it.

f) Nitro-cellulose:
This is a synthetic solution which has a very strong bond strength and is widely used
in western countries for cemented shoes.
 THREADS

Purpose: (In bottom construction)

The thread is used in bottom construction to hold the layers of the upper, insole
or welts together or welt and soles together.

Origin: Threads differ in quality and physical properties according to their origin.
The origin of threads can be classified as below:-

NATURAL
|
_______________________________________________________
| |
_______________________
_ _____________________________
| | |
Seed Cotton Best Flax Hemp Jute Staple Filament Silk
|
_____________________________
| |
Wool Man made Camel Mehair Alpaca cashmere
|
______________________________________________________
| | |
Cellulose Synthetics Metallic Thread
| |
__________________ __________________________________________
| | | |
Regenerated Modified Organic Origin Inorganic Origin
(Royan) Cellulose | |
| Acetate | |
Viscos | Glass Tible Class
Cuper Ammonium |
|
_______________________________
| |
Nylon Terylene

Natural Vegetable:

Cotton is grown in moderately hot climate i.e. USA, Egypt, Sudan, Brazil and India. The
best quality is available from North America (Sea Island) and Egypt. The quality of cotton
is judged by length of staple, fiber, luster, colour and purity. The following qualities are
generally ascribed to cotton of the origin as mentioned against each.
Name of the place Staple Length Luster Colours Purity
In mm.
_______________________________________________________________
Sea Island 50 – 62 Very high White cream Very good
Egyptian 38 – 44 High Cream yellow Very good
Midding American 25.4 – 28.5 fairly good White cream Fair
Omadeam 12.70 – 25.50 Grey white Good
_______________________________________________________________

This cotton fiber is the cheapest one and is available in abundance.

LINEN [FLAX]
The fiber under this group is taken out from the sting of the plant known as
flax. This plant grows in moderately hot climate having enough rainfall. It is mostly grown
in USSR Poland USA UK. The maximum length of fiber is up to 254 mm to 612 mm. Long
fibers are called line and short fibers are called two.

JUTE;
It is principally grown in India. It is much similar to flax. The length of fiber is up
to 1016mm

HEMP
The hemp fiber are little coarser than the above two. It does not rote in water and
hence is used for making wrapper and twin which are capable of withstanding wetting and
friction.

ANIMAL FIBER
The fiber is from the wool of animal or from the silk or silkworms. The
following types of animal fibers generally have the attributes as noted against each;

Type Source Length in mm colour luster

diameter Hand appearance
[Thousand of
As in mm]
________________________________________________________________

Medium sheep 152.40- yellow Straight in fiber

Long 304-79 lustrous lustrous and
Wool fairly soft greasy

Short sheep 25.40- white app.12.70 wavy in

Wool 152 fiber

Mohair Angera 101.60- lustrous 62-44 Straight in

254 Fiber. fairly Clean
Alpaca Alpaca 203.20- brown white 62-25.40 Fairly soft.
Goat 406.40 fawn black straight in fibre
Fairly Lustrous fairly clean

Camel camel 76.19- brown 127.25.40 -do-

Hair 177-80 yellow Grey

Cash - Tibetan 50.79- brown 82.54-50.79 very soft

mere goat 101.60 white grey

SILK silkworm white and Yellow 44.44- -do-

Indefinite Orange Very lustrous 12.70 cocoon
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MINERIAL FIBERS

[Link]; these fibers are prepared by rolling gold or silver wire to fine filament and
then mixed with some other fibers and thread are thus prepared
e. g zari

MANUFACTURED FIBERS

1. Viscose rayon; From the cellulose of wood pulp straw or cotton lustures, rayon
fibers are prepared.

2. Cup ammonium; Out of cotton lintures cellulose prepared and fibers are drawn.

MODIFIED FIBERS

Cellulose Acetate;

Cellulose acetate is prepared by transforming cotton lintures chemically with acetic acid.
The cellulose acetate is dissolve in acetic acid. The cellulose acetate is dissolve in acetine
and the solution spun into hot air. The acetone evaporate and the filament is used to make
fibers.

The fibers should not be used in the manufacture of such footwear where
acetone is used as a solvent for the operation of other components in which it is likely to
come into contact.
 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF FIBERS

Fibers strength;

The fibers have a tendency to stress when put into stress. Beyond the
certain amount of stress it breaks. The cracking strength of thread is expressed in grams of
fibers of which coarseness is 1 denier.
For a comparative study of the breaking strength of threads the threads of a
particular standard thickness are only studied.

COARSENESS

The fibers are very in coarseness according to their origin or type. The coarseness is
expressed in bank counts of denier. Some fibers are very coarse others are equally fine.

EXTENSIVITY

Practically all threads have a tendency to extend when put into stress. Extensibility is
expressed as a percentage of increase in the original length of the fiber at the breaking point

ELASTICITY AND PLASTICITY:

The threads are elastic as well as plastic. Elasticity represents the ability of a fiber to
recover its original dimension after removal of stress. Beyond a certain point of stress there
is a permanent extension of the fiber which is known as extensibility.

Plasticity may be defined as “The degree to which a fiber is permanently extended

after the removal of stress. For majority of fibers it varies considerably according to the
duration of stress and type of fibers.

RESISTANCE:

The fibers have a resistance to compression flexing and torsion. It varies

from fiber to fiber.

TENDENCY TO REGAIN MOISTURE:

Practically all the fibers have a tendency to gain moisture. This characteristic
of the fiber is of considerable importance in the manufacture of footwear. The tensile
strength of fiber is generally effected by the contents of moisture in the fiber. Cotton and
linen are stronger when met whereas Nylon, Silk, Wool and Rayon get weaker.
The standard moisture regain is the amount of moisture which is fully dried
fiber absorbs when exposed to air of a standard 65% relative humidity at 68° F.

QUALITY REQUIRED IN A GOOD THREAD:

1. Tensile Strength.
2. Ability to withstand dampness.
3. Ability to withstand abrasive fiction during stitching and wear.
4. Ability to withstand heat during stitching.
5. Uniform thickness.
6. Smoothness.
7. Absence of any tendency (to curl)
8. Softness and.
9. Good appearance.
10.
THICKNESS OF FIBERS

Fiber means twisted together make a yarn and yarn twisted together is termed as Thread.

YARN COUNTS:

The thickness of fiber is expressed in counts. This is known as yarn counts which
represent the size and diameter of the yarn. It can be more implicitly described as expression
of relationship between weight and length and thus a measurement of thickness. The yarn
count system differs according to the fiber.

For natural fiber the standard of length is termed as hank which measured as below
for different type of yarn.

1. Hank (Cotton) 768.096 meters

2. Hank (Linen) 274.32 meters
3. Hank (Woolen) 234.09 meters
4. Hank (Worsted) 512.06 meters

The standard of weight is one lb. the yarn count being the number of hanks
weighting in one lb. and therefore. A finer yarn means a greater length per lb and therefore
higher, the higher the count the finer the yarn.

MEASURING THICKNESS OF MANUFACTURED FIBERS:

The manufactured fibers are numbered by a system based on a fixed length but
variable weight. The standard length is 9000 meters and its weight in grams provided the
number which is called ‘Denier’. A yarn of 1 denier weighs one gram when weight in
9000meters length is 9 grams it will be termed as10 deniers.

Twist of the thread and cords;

The direction in which thread is twisted is of a non considerable importance in

stitching process. (The thread are available in two different twists, one is termed as right
twist or Saul twist and the other as left twist or reverse twist)
 A right twist thread means that the thread has been twisted in clockwise direction]. Left
twist means a thread has been twisted in anticlockwise direction. The twist of the thread can
also be known in another way, and if the thread winds towards outside it termed as right
twist and if towards inside it termed as left twist.

The selection of thread of a particular twist depends upon how the loop is
formed. The loop should be formed in the same direction in which the thread has been given
the twist. Left twist is suitable for hand stitching. For machine work, the twist of the thread
is recommended differently for various types of soles stitching machines by the
manufacturers of the machine. It is relative with how the machine formed loop

CORDS:

It denotes the thickness of the thread. A thread is twisted with various cords. Higher
the cords, thicker the thread.

SELECTION OF THREAD:

The selection of thread is made according to the operation, type of material and machine.

For hand work following specification are recommended;

1. Chappal stitching 6 or 7 cord hand awl 1.5 mm

2. Welting 8 to 10cord 1.7mm

3. Sole stitching 10to 12 cord 2 to 2.5mm

[Link] sole stitching 8 to 10 cord 1.5 to 1.75mm

AWL
Stitching awl, as is oblivious, comes under the category of essential hand tools for
the manufacture of footwear by hand. Its function is different than the
machine stitching. It is required to make a hole rather a suitable passage for the needle
which actually takes up the thread for stitch formation. But a hand stitching awl performs
both the operations. Its importance is known to every shoe maker and hence cannot be over
emphasized.

EFFECT OF AWL ON STITCHES:-

It is common with every test that a good result cannot be obtained with a bad tool
whatever the manipulation or skill the worker may possess. For that reason unless there is a
proper selection of the size and type of awl good stitches cannot be obtained.

A good properly selected awl simplify and reduces the efforts for stitching as well
as impress the appearance.
SELECTION OF MATERIAL FOR AWL:-

In stitching operation the awl is subjected to considerate pressure when piercing

into the leather. An awl is also required to maintain a sharp edge for a fairly long time. It
should not also have a tendency to bend or become shaky otherwise the force applied while
piercing will not yield correct result. The angle or the pierced may not be obtainable easily
if the AWL is shaky.

Considering these points a true tempered carbon steel s very suitable. As this
material is easily and cheaply available from umbrella ribs and old steel files, they are
extensively used for making awl. Umbrella ribs are preferable to old files as it already has
the shape of the body.

SIZE AND AWL:-

Prior to the perpetration of awl its size should be determined. A completely prepared
awl should be approximately bigger by 12mm than the first finger of the worker from the
centre of the palm. An unduly long size will not enable the worker to apply proper force
while piercing.

EYE OF HOOK OF THE AWL:-

It should be determined in relation to with the thickness of thread. The eye should
not be unduly big to nighters unduly small it should just allow intended thickness of the
thread to be hooked easily and smoothly without splitting thread. A small eye will cause the
thread to split. Again while making it big it should /be done undue. It should be relation /not
with the width of cutting edge and thickness of thread has explained above.

CUTTING EDGE:-

It depends on the number of stitches to be obtained the nature of work to be done i.e.
out sole stitching / welt stitching etc.. And to some extend the thickness of thread because a
thicker thread requires a big eye for being hooked properly and a big eye cannot be
accommodated in a small width of a cutting edge for it may even cause awl to break.

PROCESS OF MAKING:-

1). Take an umbrella rib of 88.89 to 101.60 mm length. In most cases this length
suits for exact adjustment lobed on.

2) Fix the rib in the awl haft.

3) Gradually flatten down the end of rid about 2p mm. This is done by applying firm but
heavy blows by hammer while the end of the awl to be flattened is kept on a three legged
iron last or any other suitable substitute of metal.
(Precaution: Don’t allow the edge and sides of the rib to distort. It should be gently and
gradually tapered down to required width and length)

4). It may happen sometimes that the material at the flattened may be unduly thick even
through the required width has been obtain in such case the extra thickness of the material
should be taken off by applying that portion gently against oilstone (carborundum stone or
grinding stone).

5). Making eye or book: First the rib is kept horizontally on the table or some other base and
a slight vertical cut is made by half round file at a distance of about 3mm away from the
edge (goldsmith).

The awl is held in a slanting portion and the cut is further downward to provide enough
room for the thread.

The cut thus made is then slightly rounded at the end by a round goldsmith`s file till it
become sufficient for booking the thread.

(Hint 1) Smoothen the eye with the little oiled thread.

2). While using half round the file it is generally to the advantage to keep the half round side
of the file round side of the inwards.

Sharpen the edge of the awl on oilstone and after this finally adjust the length of awl from
the other end.

BOTTOM FILLING

A cavity is caused when the upper is secured (lasted) over the insole. The depth of
the cavity depends upon the method of construction. For example, in a welted shoe, a
considerable cavity is cased due to welt.

A filling serves the following purposes:

1. It accommodates the irregularities of the foot and thus provides comfort.

2. A little convex shape of the sole is obtained which allows a rocking and rolling
movement to the foot.
3. Some filler also act as insulation between the sole and insole and prevents dampness,
heat, cold etc.

The following materials are generally used for bottom filling:-

1. Saw dust with flour paste and rubber solution.

2. Leather scraps or leather.
3. Felt etc.
4. Sponge rubber
5. Thermoplastic granular mixture.
6. Cold setting granular mixture.

1. Saw dust with flour paste and rubber solution is extensively used as bottom filler. It is
very cheap but it has got its own drawback. When used with paste, it may tend to form
ridges on the insole, owning to the weakness of adhesion used with the rubber solution its
serves as a better filling.

2. Leather scraps or leather is also used in hand made shoe as filling, but it not very much
suitable, particularly for the reason that leather is unyielding and vegetable tanned ;leather
surfaces in contact tend to squeak. The other drawback is that it is difficult to insure the
correct thickness and shape of suit a particular cavity of each shoe.

3. Felt is also use as filler for handmade shoes. A peace is cut into the shape and is skived
around the edge to bring it to the level of the welt seam. The forepart is left fairly flat and
the waist is rounded.

The chief drawback with welt is that it is difficult to ensure a correct thickness and shape to
suit a particular cavity of each shoe.

4. Sponge rubber: It also serves as a bottom with the advantage that is renders the finished
shoe externally soft and flexible.

5. Thermoplastic granular mixture: The base of this material is granulated cork bonded
with resin or bitumen which softens under heat or through steam. Under great pressure and
heat filling material is spread evenly in the cavity. In case of welted shoe, the filling
material further forced under the welt seam, which makes the stitch holes waterproof. For
evenly spreading the material, a hydraulically or mechanically operated press is used.

6. Cold setting granular mixture: These types of filler consist of granulated cork, asbestos
and leather fibers and wood flour or combination of those bonded together with rubber or
cellulose solution. They are applied on the cavity by knife machine; pressure may also be
applied, so as to make them thermo set.

After drawing the cold filler renders firm but resilient and flexible layer which does
not bunch or break in wear.

They are particularly suitable for cemented shoes, as the bonding medium can be
similar in character to the soles cement.
 SHANKS

Purpose:
The waist of the last on account of its arch curvature and the slimness of the
construction of the sole and insole at the part requires an additional support. The object of
stiffening this part of the shoe is to preserve the form of the arch and to throw the flexible
properties of the shoe forward to the joints where the foot bends in walking. Besides, it also
keeps the heel and thread firmly together, which is of particular important in high heeled
shoe.

CHARACTERSTICS OF SHANK:

Various materials are used for shank; some are very rigid others
comparatively less and some are fairly flexible, each having a particular advantage for
particular type of shoe or construction.

1. RIGID SHANK:

In a high heeled sandal or shoe (over39.1 mm high heel), the waist of the foot becomes
more arched and the foot cannot be maintained in this arched portion bye muscles alone
for any length of time as this will soon become tired and strained. This necessitates that
the artificial support introduce through the medium of shank should be of rigid
character. A rigid shank is, therefore, necessary in such shoe. Also for the reason that it
holds the bearing points, that is heel and thread, firmly together.

2. SEMI-RIGID SHANK:

In a shoe where the heel varies from 25.40 to 39.1 mm and the foot remains much in
abnormal position, a semi-rigid shank may serve and purpose ideally.

3. FLEXIBLE SHANK:

For a shoe with a low heel around 19.05 mm or below, where the foot remains much in
normal position, a flexible shank (like bamboo shank etc.) may be quite suitable.

LENGTH AND SHAPE OF SHANK:

The length of the shank should be such that it should extend from the joint to appoint
well under the breast, the shape of shank should be such that it fits and follows the curvature
of arch of the last with insole and reinforcement, in some heavy duty shoes or corrective

Shoes, a wider shank (than is normally employed) is used, shaped and moulded in such a
way so as to form an additional arch support for the feet.
DIFFERENT MATERIALS FOR SHANK

1. Wood
2. Fiber board
3. Steel
4. Combined wood board or steel and board
5. Hard flexible plastic

WOOD

Wood shanks are generally used for low heeled gents and children shoes which have
little arch that obviates the chances of breakdown under the weight of the body-bamboo
shanks as compared to wooden shanks are susceptible to crack. Bamboo shanks are also
spongier.
Wooden shanks are skived at each end and along–sides, so as not to appear in a finished
shoe.

FIBER BOARD.

Fiber board shanks are also used in low heeled shoes. They substitute
advantageously shanks but are costlier. The advantages are that they spread very little under
pressure. Fiber shanks are sometimes combined with steel or wood to give additional
rigidity.

STEEL.

Steel shanks are very essential in high heeled shoes, especially ladies sandals and
shoes having a heel height around or above 39mm itself. An additional support is therefore,
required through the medium of shank. A high grade shank is therefore used for such type
of works. In a steel shank sometimes, a smaller rubber packet is used by chaffing.

COMBINED WOOD BOARD OR STEEL AND BOARD SHANKS;

Combined shanks, i.e. shank of one material reinforced by the other are also
frequently used to incorporate the quality of one material into the other for additional
reinforcement for providing filler, according to the nature and necessity of work.

PLATFORM MATERIALS-CORK,LEATHER BOARD ,CREPE AND RUBBER;

Plate form materials are mostly used in ladies, sandals in order to increase the
overall thickness of height of the sandal.

The following materials are commonly used

 i) Cork
ii) Laminated Cork
iii) Rubberized Cork (Moulded)
iv) Card Board or Leather Board
v) Crepe and rubber soles
vi) Felt

1. Cork; it is cut from the bark of the tree.

2. Laminated cork sheet;

Cork bended with latex or rubber solution is termed as laminated cork.

3. Rubberized Cork (Moulded)

Granulated cork pressed well and bonded with rubber solution is termed as rubberized cork
4. Sponge:

The latex is mixed with coagulated agent and vulcanizing compound and before it could set,
it is foamed so foamed so that the million tiny air bubbles are suspended in it and is poured
into the moulds. Here is allowed to coagulated and removed from the mould and heated to
complete the vulcanization. The result is a light material but it is non-absorbent as the pores
are not continuous but isolated from each other. Plastic sponge sheets are also similar in
appearance
.
5; Card board or leather board;

They are generally manufactured in rectangular dimension in different thicknesses and are
available in market as such.

[Link] sheets; are mostly available in the market in 914.37x304.79mm size in different
thickness.

[Link]; it is used for platform materials are firm felts made of wood, hair with small
quantities of vegetable fiber.

WOODEN HEELS

The following 3 types of wooden heels are very common;

1. CUBAN HEEL
2. LOIUS HEEL
3. WEDGE HEELS

1. “Cuban heel” has a top-piece which is shorter from back to front than that of a
military heel, it is also somewhat perpendicular. Its height varies from 29.1 to 57.14mm
 2. “The Louis heel” is different from Cuban heel. The top piece is kept very small to
provide considerable hollowness between top piece and seat. The heel part of the sole is
split and the flesh side is then continued to form a foundation for the heel

3. Wedge heels are too long in length in comparison to Cuban and Louis. It is not as
high as Cuban and Louis heels are.

OUTSOLE STICHING MACHINE [RAFFALENBEUL M S 200]

THEREAD AND ITS ADJUSTMENT;

This machine is designed to operate with right twist thread .a thread of 6to10 cords
is used; the thickness of the thread is relative to the thickness of needle awl and the awl is
represented by number. The smaller the no. is , the thicker the needle. For instance, needle
no 47 is thicker than need no 50 a relative chart of the thicker of awl needles and the
materials for which they are recommended is given below;

Material AwlNos. NeedleNO Needle Guide No Upper Thread Shuttle Thread

LIGHT 47 50 50 6CORDS 6CORDS

MEDIUM 45 47 47 8CORDS 6CORDS

HEAVY 43 45 45 10 CORDS 8CORDS

The tension of upper and shuttle thread should be kept well balanced. if the tension of the
upper thread is loose and shuttle thread is tight; the knots of look stitch will be formed on the
surface of sole of shoe and the shuttle thread is very loose and the upper one is tight; then
stitches will come on the surface of the welt. The thread tension is regulated through the
tension springs. The lighter the tension screw; the lighter becomes the thread in flow and vice
versa.

IMPORTANT PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTION

It leads the thread into a horizontal position with the help of a thread gripper and
releases one thread after it is taken by the hook needle. It is, therefore, very important that
the position of thread gripper is adjusted that it gives the thread lead by the thread gripper
and release the same in proper time after the hook needle has caught the thread

CHANLLING KNIFE

While stitching the channel knife makes a vertical cut into the bottom. The depth of
the channel is adjustable by an indicator provided in the machine, for regulating the channel
knife and to obtain a well cut channel knife and sharpen it vertically on a sharpening stone.
NEEDLE GUIDE

For each no. of needle a corresponding needle guide is necessary [as already shown in table]
The function of needle guide is to keep the movement of the needle in the correct
direction as it comes ups and downs [up to the point below pressure foot].it thus directs the
needle correctly to pass through the hole made by the awl to pick up thread. for changing
the needle guide the machine has to be brought into certain position as bellow;
1. Remove the needle
2. Remove the table
3. Remove the pressure foot
4. Turn flywheel until needle guide is in the highest position
5. Loosen the screw holding the needleguide which now easy to remove.

For changing the needle guide;

1. Turn flywheel unless the needle screw is visible through the side.2
2. Un-tighten the screw and take out the needle.
3. Put in the new needle and pass it through the needle guide and see that the needle guide is
of proper no.

THE PRESSURE FOOT

Its function is to keep the material in proper position on the table during the stitching
process. It has two screw one on the right and other on the left side. The left screw regulates
the position of the pressure foot on the table. Adjustment of the pressure on the pressure
foot.
The pressure on the material can be adjusted from the front bottom on the right hand
of the machine. When stitching crepe sole, it is advisable not to have too strong pressure
because the crepe does not move with the same ease as the other material move while being
stitched. It is also, therefore, advisable to attach thin pieces of paper to the crepe sole which
can be torn off, after stitching.

GUIDE FOR EDGE OF SOLE:

The guide is secured to the table and its position is adjustable by means of screw
which is provided for the purpose. The guide helps to maintain the desired line of distance
for stitches and the shoes while being stitched and held against the guide.

THE SHUTTLE:

It catches the thread with its nose to form a sort of loop which ultimately results in
the lockstitches. The nose of the shuttle has to be treated carefully and any damage will
result in breakage of the thread or not catching the thread to perform lockstitch. The bobbin
is located in middle of shuttle and the tension spring of the bottom thread is located in the
middle of the shuttle, which consist of a screw, whether and line tiny plates through which
the bobbin thread passes for regulating the tension.
LATERAL ADJUSTMENT OF ALL AND NEEDLE:

It most important that awl and needle are in correct alignment. The awl and needle
should be opposite to each other, and at any position of the flywheel, a very slight distance
of about ½ mm should remain between each other that is their points should not join or
clash together. The awl is positioned very slightly left from the point of the needle. This
position of the needle is about by loosening the screw of the eccentric and turning the same
to the right and left till needle and all are in correct alignment

To secure the proper running of the machine, the following points should be checked
and rectified.

1. See that the machine is properly lubricated.

2. That the shuttle and housing is clear and free from obstruction.

3. That the thread cord, the number of the needle and all are in proper relation.

4. Check the tension of the upper and the bottom thread.

5. See the number of the needle guide is correct in relation to the number of the needle.
6. See that the needle and awl are in correct alignment.

7. See that the point of the needle and awl has sharp edge and they are fixed properly in their
segments.

8. Check whether the need guide is wore out and loose.

9. Check that the upper thread is properly moistened.

10. See that the channel knife is properly adjusted and edge is sharp.