Instructions (please read before printing)
Print the Pattern:
Print the pages of size you want to build:
Instructions: 1-2
Small: 3-6
Medium: 7-10
Large: 11-15
Preparing the pattern:
Some pieces are spread over two pages. You can use a window (or light table) to align the lines or trim the margins off
the paper and then tape them together before cutting out. After cutting all the pieces, use small V cuts or use a pattern
notcher [Link] (affiliate link) to remove the green registration marks.
Cutting the foam:
1. Trace pattern with registration marks onto your foam. Any piece with “cut two” should be traced normally once and
then flipped over to trace the second.
2. Make cuts with a snap off blade. Press firmly and move smoothly from your shoulder. Make sure to hold the blade
straight up and down to get nice 90-degree cuts. (Practice on scraps to get the hang of it!)
3. The golden lines on piece 2 are optional cuts. The nostrils are decorative, and the side of the face hole is useful for
vision and ventilation. “Top Jaw” and “Bottom Jaw” are also optional: if you intend on hinging the jaw for movement,
cut them out.
3. On the edges marked to be beveled on the back (blue edges) angle the blade 45 degrees in toward the middle of the
piece. Again, practice on scraps to get the hang of it! (If you do not have confidence to cut this way, please refer to the
“Beveling with a dremel” section.)
4. On the edges marked to be beveled on the front (red edges) angle the blade 45 degrees toward the outside of the
piece. Follow the red line with the part of your blade that you can see, the dotted line is a visualization of where tip of
the blade will be. Remember to practice on scraps! (If you do not have confidence to cut this way, cut a straight 90
degree cut along the dotted edge to and start on step 2 of the “Beveling with a dremel” section.)
5. Heads up: Some edges show a transition from 90-degree cuts to a beveled one. Pattern piece 1, 2 and the bottom jaw
show these transition areas by the thickness of the colored lines.
Beveling with a Dremel:
1. Cut all edges of the patterns with a 90-degree cut.
2. Measure the thickness of the foam and draw a line that that distance away from the edge on all edges marked
to be beveled. For the blue beveled edges, draw this line on the back of the foam piece. For red draw it on the
front.
3. Take your Dremel with a sanding drum bit and carefully sand away the corner until you reach your drawn line.
This creates a 45 degree angle on the foam.
Gluing:
Lay out your cut foam pieces like as shown, this will also guide you on how the pieces align:
How to use contact cement:
1. Paint on a thin layer of glue on both edges you intend to glue together and wait for it to dry. It will look matte
and be slightly tacky to the touch when it is ready.
2. Apply a second thin layer of glue. (while not necessary, I recommend it)
3. Line up the two edges and press them together for an instant bond Start from one side and bring the glued
edges together like a zipper, aligning the registration marks.
Tip: if you make a mistake, use heat gun to gently heat up the seam, the contact cement will soften, and
you can pull the two pieces apart.
1. Top of the head: Glue 9 to 1
2. Side of the face: Glue 5, 6 and 7, then glue 2 and 2b then those
groups together
3. Glue the top of the head to the side of the face.
4. The Jaw: Glue 4 to 10, then 8 to 3, then those groups together
5. Repeat all steps for the other half of the pattern.
6. Glue the two tops of heads and the two jaw groups together
down the middle seams.
7. You can glue the jaw to the head at this stage if you would like:
the seam between 8 and 3 will align with the seam between 7
and 2.
8. To add “Top Jaw” and “Bottom Jaw”, add glue to the interior
surface of the Jaw and head about ¼ to ½ inch from the mouth
line. Add glue to the edge of the Jaw pieces as usual. When you
glue these together be as careful as you can to keep it even as
this step will effect how well the jaw lines up
Approximate top and bottom jaw placement
(sm)
cut two
Bottom Jaw
4
t
Si
)
d
cu e J
a
3
(sm two w
Ba 10
c
cu k J
t a
(sm two w
)
Guide:
Bevel back
Bevel Front
Straight Cut
Registration mark
Optional Cut
7
Ch ut tw )
c
ee o
k
(sm
p Jaw
o
T t one
cu m)
(s
(sm)
cut two
heek
Lower C
8
2bRidge
Nose two
cut
(sm)
1
(sm)
cut two
Top Head
2
Side Face
cut two
(sm)
6er Eyoe
w w
Lo cut t m)
(s
)
(sm ne
o
cut m Jaw
to
Bot
9
Back Head
Uppe o
cut two
cut tw
5 Eye
(sm)
(sm)
r
(me
cut d)
Sid two
e Ja
w
3
4
Bottom Jaw
cut two
(med)
eek
er Ch
(med o
8
w
Cheek
cut two
)
(med)
cut t
7
Low
10
Back Jaw
cut two
(med)
Top Jaw
cut one
(med)
2bRidge
Nose two
cut )
(med
1
(med)
cut two
Top Head
2
Side Face
cut two
(med)
Guide:
Bevel back
Bevel Front
Straight Cut
Registration mark
Optional Cut
6er Eyoe
w w
Lo cut t ed)
(m
d)
(me ne
o
cut m Jaw
to
Bot
9
Back Head
Uppe wo
cut two
cut t
5 Eye
(med)
(med)
r
2
Side Face
cut two
(Lg)
3
Side Jaw
cut two
(Lg)
Guide:
Bevel back
Bevel Front
Straight Cut
Registration mark
Optional Cut
Bottom Jaw
cut one
(Lg)
Cheek
cut two
7
(Lg)
Jaw
10
ck
t
g) o
4m Jaw
Ba
cu
(L tw
to
Bot two
cut Lg)
(
Upp
5
erEy
cut
two e
(Lg)
(Lg)
cut one
Top Jaw
8 eek
e r Ch
Low two
cut g)
(L
1
Top Head
cut two
(Lg)
(Lg)
cut two
Back Head
9 2bRidge
Nose two
(Lg)
cut
Lo
w 6
cu er
t E
(L tw ye
g) o