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Peavey Tour 450/700 Triac Removal Guide

This document provides instructions for removing a problematic triac from Peavey Tour 450 and 700 amplifiers as part of an unofficial modification. The triac causes the power amp to cut out for a few seconds at higher volumes. Removing it takes an experienced technician about 10 minutes and involves cutting the triac leads, removing it from the circuit board, and reassembling the amplifier casing. Performing this modification voids the amplifier warranty and should only be attempted by experienced technicians, as it involves handling high voltage components inside the amplifier.

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Danielo Erré
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335 views4 pages

Peavey Tour 450/700 Triac Removal Guide

This document provides instructions for removing a problematic triac from Peavey Tour 450 and 700 amplifiers as part of an unofficial modification. The triac causes the power amp to cut out for a few seconds at higher volumes. Removing it takes an experienced technician about 10 minutes and involves cutting the triac leads, removing it from the circuit board, and reassembling the amplifier casing. Performing this modification voids the amplifier warranty and should only be attempted by experienced technicians, as it involves handling high voltage components inside the amplifier.

Uploaded by

Danielo Erré
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

NOTE: This is not an official Peavey document.

WARNING: Perform this procedure at your own risk.

Peavey Tour 450/700 Triac Removal


The Peavey Tour 450 and 700 amplifiers contain a backup protection circuit that is
problematic on some units. The circuit will trip prematurely at higher volumes and cause
the amp to reset itself resulting in the power amp cutting out for a few seconds. The mod
described here is what Peavey does to correct this problem. If you are uncomfortable
performing this mod yourself, simply take the amp back to the dealer where you
purchased the amp and they should perform this for free if they are a Peavey dealer, or
take these instructions to an amp tech to have the amp modified. This is a very simple
procedure that takes an experience tech about 10 minutes to perform.

TOOLS:

-#2 Phillips head screwdriver


-one pair of diagonal cutters
-one pair of needle nose pliers
-flathead screwdriver

1. Make sure the unit is unplugged.


2. Remove the fuse from the holder on the rear of the unit using the flathead
screwdriver to turn the holder counter-clockwise.
3. Using the Phillips screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on top, the 4 screws across
the top rear, and the 3 screws along the top on each side.
4. Using the flathead screwdriver, pry the lid up from one of the rear corners. The
lid locks at the front of the amp. Tilt the lid at about a 45 degree angle and slide it
back to unlock it. Be careful not to damage any wires connecting to the front
circuit board.
5. Locate the triac (TR3). Figure 1 shows the triac shaded in red. Figure 2 shows a
close-up of the triac shaded in yellow.
Figure 1: The main circuit board
Figure 2: The triac TR3

6. Using the diagonal cutters, cut the three leads of TR3. Try to cut the leads as
closely to the circuit board as possible so the loose ends don’t short together later
on. Take care not to damage any other parts during this part. Do not leave any
metal clippings on the inside of the amp! The triac may have a small dab of
hotglue holding the rear tab down. Once the leads are cut, grab the triac body on
each side using the needle nose pliers and pull straight up to break the glue. Once
the triac has been removed, the board should look like Figure 3.
Figure 3: No more triac

7. Making sure no wires or cables get trapped by the lid, angle the lid and slide the
locking tabs forward into the front of the chassis.
8. Slowly lower the lid to seal the chassis. The lid fits inside, so you may have to
use the flathead to pry the back so the lid will seat.
9. Replace all 12 screws that fasten the lid to the chassis. The rear part of the lid
may be difficult to line up with the screw holes. Use the flathead to help pry the
lid up to the point where the screw will go in and hold it there until you get the
first screw started. This will make the other three screws much easier to line up.
10. Using the flathead screwdriver, put the fuse back in by twisting it clockwise and
pushing gently to lock it in place.
11. Plug the amp in and test it.

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