PREPARATION AND EVALUATION OF HERBAL SOAP

[Link]

Cosmetology:

Cosmetology is Science and art of making women & men beautiful . Cosmetic is
derived from Greek word 'kosmeticos' which means to adorn (make more beautiful
or attractive)

According to D & C act 1940 and its rule 1945, "Cosmetic is defined as any article
intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, or introduced into or otherwise
applied to, the human body or any part therefore cleaning, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness or altering the appearance and includes any article intended for use as
a component of cosmetic".

Cosmetics are substances used to enhance or alter the appearance of the face or
fragrance & texture of the body.

1.1 STRUCTURE AND FUNCTIONS OF SKIN

Structure Of Skin :

The skin is a large organ, weighing an average of 4kg and covering an area of 2m2 . Its
major function is to act as a barrier against an inhospitable environment – to protect the
body from the influences of the outside world. The importance of the skin is well
illustrated by the high mortality rate associated with extensive loss of skin from burns.

Three Primary Layer of Skin

[Link]

[Link]

[Link]

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Fig. 1 : Structure of Skin

1. Epidermis

Epidermis is the outermost layer of skin.

It is composed of Keratinized Stratified Squamous Epithelium.

The epidermis has no blood vessels

The get nourished by diffusion of nutrients from underlying dermis layer.

2. Dermis
It is second deeper layer of skin. It contain blood vessels, glands, hairs follicles and
nerve endings. It consists of the dense network of structural protein fibers i.e. collagen,
reticulum and elastin, embedded in the semigel matrix of mucopolysaccaride.[25]. The
gel structure provides the elastic nature of the skin. The fibrous tissue opens up below
the dermis and merges with the fat containing subcutaneous tissue.

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[Link]/Subcutis
The subcutaneous tissue (also hypodermis and subcutis) is not part of skin, lies below
the dermis of the cutis. Its purpose is the attach the skin to underlying bone and muscles
as well as supplying it with blood vessels and nerves. It helps in storage of fat.[24]

Functions of skin:
The skin of human body has various functions. Some of this are given below:-
[Link] :- One of the main function of the skin protection from invasion by
microbes, chemicals, physical agent.
2. Sensory function :- Free nerve ending on the skin are sensitive to pain, touch, heat
& cold, resulting either voluntary or reflex activities.
[Link] - Skin excretes sodium chloride in sweat, urea when kidney function is
impaired, and aromatic substances (like Garlic and other spices).
4. Regulation of body temperature - Regulation of body temperature at about 36.9 *c
with variation of 0.5*c and 0.75*c is one of the important function of skin.
5. Formation of vitamin D :- Fatty substance present in skin, 7-dehydrocholesterol is
converted to vitamin D in present of UV light from sun.
6. Absorption:- It absorbs some drug with low molecular weight as well as toxic
chemicals like mercury.
7. Water resistance :- The skin acts as a water-resistant barrier so essential nutrients
are not washed out of the body.

1.2 DIFFERENT TYPES OF SKINS:

Different skin types cover as normal, oily, dry, combination, or sensitive skin types.

Normal Skin Type

Not too dry and not too oily, normal skin has:
• No or few imperfections
• No severe sensitivity
• Barely visible pores
• A radiant complexion

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Combination Skin Type

Skin can be dry or normal in some areas and oily in others, such as the T-zone (nose,
forehead, and chin). Many people have this type. It may need slightly different care in
different areas.
Combination skin can have:
▪ Pores that look larger than normal, because they‘re more open
▪ Blackheads
▪ Shiny skin

Dry Skin
Many persons have:
▪ Almost invisible pores
▪ Dull, rough complexion
▪ Red patches
▪ Skin is less elastic
▪ More visible lines

Oily Skin Type

Such persons may have:
▪ Enlarged pores
▪ Dull or shiny, thick complexion
▪ Blackheads, pimples, or other blemishes

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1.3 HISTORY OF SOAP

Ancient Egypt: The use of herbs for skincare dates back to ancient Egypt, where people
used a variety of plant-based ingredients to cleanse and moisturize their skin. They used
a mixture of animal fats and plant extracts, including olive oil, palm oil, and aromatic
herbs, to create soap-like substances for bathing.
Ancient India: Ayurveda, the traditional system of medicine in India, has a rich history
of using herbs for various health and wellness purposes, including skincare. Herbal
soaps made from plant-based ingredients such as neem, turmeric, and sandalwood were
used in India for their anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and skin-nourishing properties.
Medieval Europe: During the Middle Ages in Europe, soap-making became more
widespread, and herbal ingredients were often used in soap production. Herbs such as
lavender, rosemary, and chamomile were added to soap to impart fragrance and provide
skincare benefits.
Modern era: In the modern era, the popularity of herbal soaps has continued to grow,
with a renewed interest in natural and plant-based skincare products. Many people
today are seeking out herbal soaps made from organic, sustainably-sourced ingredients,
and formulated with various herbs and botanicals known for their skin-loving properties
such as aloe vera, calendula, and lavender.

1.4 CHEMISTRY OF HERBAL SOAP:

The chemistry of herbal soap involves saponification, which is the chemical reaction
that occurs when fats or oils are mixed with an alkali, typically sodium hydroxide
(NaOH) or potassium hydroxide (KOH), to produce soap.

Fats or Oils: Herbal soaps are typically made from fats or oils, such as coconut oil,
olive oil, palm oil, or shea butter. These fats or oils contain triglycerides, which are
composed of glycerol molecules and fatty acid chains.

Alkali: An alkali, usually sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or potassium hydroxide (KOH),

is used as a catalyst in the saponification process. The alkali reacts with the triglycerides
in the fats or oils to break them down into their constituent molecules

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Saponification: The saponification process involves the hydrolysis of the triglycerides

in the fats or oils by the alkali. The alkali molecule reacts with the ester linkage in the
triglycerides, resulting in the formation of glycerol and fatty acid salts, which are soap
molecules. This process is exothermic, meaning it generates heat.

Herbal Ingredients: Herbal soaps also contain herbal ingredients, such as dried herbs,
botanicals, or essential oils, which are added to provide fragrance, color, and potential
therapeutic properties.

Curing: Once the saponification process is complete, the soap is left to cure for several
weeks to allow excess water to evaporate and for the soap to harden. This process helps
to improve the lather, texture, and longevity of the soap.

pH: The pH of herbal soap is important for its effectiveness and mildness. Soap is
typically alkaline with a pH range of 8-10, which helps to emulsify oils and remove dirt
and impurities from the skin.

1.5 TYPES OF HERBAL SOAP

There are various types of herbal soaps available that are made using different herbal
ingredients. Some common types of herbal soaps include:
a) Lavender soap: Made using
lavender essential oil, this soap is
known for its calming and relaxing
properties. It may help soothe irritated
skin and promote a sense of well-being.

b) Tea tree oil soap: Tea tree oil is

known for its antibacterial and
antifungal properties, making this soap
ideal for acne-prone or oily skin. It may
help cleanse and purify the skin, while
also helping to address skin conditions
such as eczema or athlete's foot.

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c) Calendula soap: Calendula is a herb

known for its gentle and soothing calm
properties, making it suitable for
sensitive or irritated skin. It may help
redness, inflammation, and itching, and
promote skin healing.

d) Neem soap: Neem is a natural herb

with antibacterial and antifungal
properties, making it a popular
ingredient in herbal soaps. It may help
cleanse and purify the skin, while also
addressing skin conditions such as acne,
eczema, or psoriasis.

e) Aloe vera soap: Aloe vera is a well-

known herb for its moisturizing and
soothing properties. Aloe vera soap
may help hydrate the skin, soothe
sunburn, and promote skin healing.

f) Rosemary soap: Rosemary is an

herb known for its antioxidant and anti-
inflammatory properties. Rosemary
soap may help stimulate blood
circulation, promote a sense of
rejuvenation, and cleanse the skin.

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1.6 PROPERTIES OF HERBAL SOAP:

• Natural Ingredients: Herbal soaps are typically made from natural ingredients
such as plant extracts, essential oils, and herbs. These natural ingredients are
often chosen for their skin-loving properties and are believed to provide various
benefits for the skin.
• Mild and Gentle: Herbal soaps are usually formulated to be mild and gentle on
the skin. They are typically free from harsh chemicals, sulfates, and synthetic
fragrances, which can be irritating to the skin. This makes herbal soaps suitable
for people with sensitive skin
• Moisturizing: Many herbal soaps contain moisturizing ingredients such as shea
butter, cocoa butter, and natural oils, which can help to hydrate the skin and
prevent dryness.
• Antioxidant-Rich: Herbal soaps often contain plant extracts that are rich in
antioxidants. Antioxidants help to neutralize free radicals, which are harmful
molecules that can damage the skin cells and cause premature aging.
• Nourishing: Herbal soaps are often formulated with nourishing ingredients
such as vitamins, minerals, and essential fatty acids that can provide nutrition
to the skin. These nutrients can help to support the skin's health and vitality,
promoting a radiant and healthy complexion.
• Aromatherapeutic: Herbal soaps often contain essential oils, which can
provide aromatherapeutic benefits. The natural scents of essential oils can help
relax the mind, uplift the mood, and provide a sensory experience during your
skincare routine.
• Eco-Friendly: Many herbal soaps are formulated with biodegradable
ingredients and are packaged in environmentally friendly materials, making
them a more sustainable choice for personal care products.
• Customizable: Herbal soaps can be made at home or purchased from artisans,
allowing for customization based on personal preferences or specific skin
needs..

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1.7 ADVANTAGES OF HERBAL SOAP:

• Natural Ingredients: Herbal soaps are typically made from natural plant-based
ingredients such as herbs, essential oils, and botanical extracts. These natural
ingredients are often gentle on the skin and may help to soothe and nourish the skin
without causing irritation or dryness.
• Hypoallergenic: Herbal soaps are often hypoallergenic, meaning they are less
likely to cause allergic reactions compared to synthetic soaps that may contain harsh
chemicals and artificial fragrances.
• Environmentally Friendly: Herbal soaps are generally considered to be more
environmental friendly compared to synthetic soaps, as they are often
biodegradable and do not contain harmful chemicals that may harm aquatic life or
pollute the environment.
• Aromatherapy Benefits: Many herbal soaps contain essential oils, which can
provide aromatherapy benefits. These essential oils may help to relax the mind,
uplift the mood, and provide a sense of well-being during the bathing process.

1.8 DISADVANTAGES OF HERBAL SOAP:

• Limited Lather: Herbal soaps may not lather as much as synthetic soaps due to
their natural ingredients. While lather is not necessarily an indicator of cleaning
efficacy, some people may prefer a rich lather during their bathing routine.
• Shorter Shelf Life: Herbal soaps may have a shorter shelf life compared to
synthetic soaps, as they do not typically contain preservatives. This means that they
may spoil or become less effective over time, especially if not used within a certain
period.
• Higher Cost: Herbal soaps may be more expensive compared to synthetic soaps,
as they often contain higher-quality natural ingredients. This can make them less
affordable for some consumers, especially those on a tight budget.

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SKIN RELATED ISSUES OF SOAP USERS:

▪ Contact Dermatitis
Soap bars containing a potent antiseptic, tetrachlorosalicylanilide (TCSA), can leave
with some fairly serious side effects. The parts of body exposed to an irritant, like TCSA
or even strong fragrances in harsh soap and cosmetics, can break out into a red, often
itchy rash accompanied by dry, cracking skin, oozing blisters, swelling and burning.

▪ pH Damage
Our skin needs to maintain a specific, fairly acidic pH to function properly. The acid
mantle, a thin, protective layer, is primarily composed of sebum; the skin‘s naturally
produced oil. Its integrity is susceptible to irregularities caused by internal and external
factors, like diet, pollutants and harsh soaps.

▪ Dryness
Dry skin looks about as good as it feels: tight, uncomfortable and, in some instances,
even painful. Surfactants in cleansers can damage proteins and lipids in skin, leading to
tightness, itching, dryness and barrier damage after washing, according to a study
published in Dermatologic Therapy.

• Inflammatory Acne
It seems counterintuitive, but the cleanser you‘re using to rid your skin of dirt
and oils that clog pores could be contributing to the very acne you‘re trying to prevent
or clear up. Cleansing agents such as harsh soap with a higher pH may damage the acid
mantle‘s natural antimicrobial defences and lead to acne vulgaris, among other
conditions, according to a study published in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. The
study postulates that using a moisturising cleanser with a pH of about 5.5, the same
natural pH as your skin, could prevent and treat acne.

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2. LITERATURE REVIEW

1. Telange-Patil P.V et al ,2022 “Bacterial skin infection are most common

among people, requiring significant attention for treatment and also to
maintain healthy skin some herbal plant extract have antibacterial
activity.”[21]
2. [Link] Chandira et al, 2022 “Herbal soap has been used traditionally for
treating several epidermal dysfunctions, such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne
and helps to boost immune response in tissue of affected skin area.”[22]
3. Patel Anu et al , 2022 “Herbal soap was prepared using coconut oil, castor
oil, neem oil, lavender oil, rose oil, and NaOH (lye) and different extracts
were included into basic saponification reaction.”[20]
4. Bothe Saurav et al 2022“ Ayurvedic cosmetics are also known as the herbal
cosmetics the natural content in the herbs does not have any side effect on
the human body most herbal supplement are based on several botanical
ingredients with long histories of traditional or folk medicine usage. Among
the numerous botonical ingredients available in the market today.”[23]
5. Munde Govind Anant et al , 2021 “The herbal soap was formulated by using
leaf of neem , Aloe Vera, tulshi, vit-c, tocopheryl acetate ayurvedic
cosmetics is very helpful and does not give it side effects. Ayurvedic
cosmetics are also known as herbal cosmetics.”[19]
6. G. Sucharita et al , 2020 “The aim and objective of the present study is to
formulate antibacterial poly herbal bath soap using curcuma
longa[Turmeric],azadirachta indica [Neem oil],the anti bacterial soap
prepared against the organism staphylococcus aureus by using a cold
process method.”[18]
7. Pravin V ,Gomase et al , 2019 “Some herbal plant powders have
antibacterial activity. The present study aims to formulate antibacterial poly
herbal face soap using Neem powder, Fuller's earth, Lemon peel, Activated
Charcoal, Sandalwood powder, Tea Tree Essential Oil, and Tocopherol.”[17]
8. Afsar, Z et al , 2016 “Neem (Azadirachta indica) tree has attracted
worldwide prominence owing to its wide range of medicinal properties,
neem leaves and its constituents have been demonstrated to exhibit anti-

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inflammatory, antihyperglycemic, antiulcer antimalarial, antifungal,

antibacterial, antimutagenic and anticarcinogenic properties.”[16]
9. Ruckmani K et al 2014“The herbal plant extracts are known to possess
various potentials like antiinflammatory, antibacterial and antifungal
properties which are explored for ages and incorporated into various forms,
for human use.”[15]
10. Reddy, Y. R et al , 2013 “Screening of medicinal plants for bioactive
compounds leads to development of less expensive new antimicrobialagents
with improved safety and efficacy. Azadirachta Indica (neem) is a
multipurpose tree with multiple health benefits. Different parts of the plant
are shown to exhibit antimicrobial effects against a wide variety of
microorganisms. ”[14]
11. Pandey Shivanand et al , 2010“Herbal cosmetics like herbal facewash,
herbal conditioner, herbal soaps, herbal shampoo, and many more are highly
acclaimed by the masses. The best thing of the herbal cosmetics is that it is
purely made by the herbs and shrubs .The natural content in the herbs does
not have any side effects on the human body; instead enrich the body with
nutrients and other useful minerals”[13]
12. Jain Amit et al 2010 “Most herbal supplements are based on, or include,
several botanical ingredients with long histories of traditional or folk
medicine usage.”[12]
13. Riaz S. Ahmad A et al , 2009 “The most resistant bacterium to all the soaps
is Klebsiella pneumoniae and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. It is obvious that
antibacterial soaps have the antibacterial agents that can either kill or inhibit
the bacterial cells. It might be possible that some bacterial strains become
resistant which leads to their survival even at high concentrations of
soaps.”[11]
14. Kapoor, V. P. et al (2005) “The cosmetics, according to the Drugs and
Cosmetics Act is defined as articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled
or sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or
any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or
altering the appearance”[9]

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[Link] AND OBJECTIVE

• Herbal soap aims to provide a natural and sustainable alternative to conventional

soaps that may contain harsh chemicals, synthetic fragrances, and other potentially
harmful ingredients. The objective is to offer a soap that is made from natural and
plant-based ingredients, which are gentle on the skin and environmentally friendly.

• Nourishing and Moisturizing: Herbal soap may aim to nourish and moisturize the
skin, providing essential nutrients and hydration to promote healthy skin. The
objective is to create a soap that helps to maintain the skin's natural moisture
balance, leaving it soft, smooth, and supple.

• Therapeutic and Aromatherapeutic Benefits: Herbal soap may aim to provide

therapeutic and aromatherapeutic benefits through the use of specific herbs and
botanicals known for their healing properties.

• Mild and Gentle Cleansing: Herbal soap may aim to cleanse the skin without
stripping away its natural oils or disrupting the skin's pH balance. The objective is
to create a soap that effectively removes dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin while
maintaining its natural protective barrier, leaving the skin clean and refreshed.

• Environmentally Conscious: Herbal soap may aim to promote sustainability and

eco-friendliness by using natural and biodegradable ingredients, avoiding harmful
chemicals, and using minimal packaging. The objective is to create a soap that is
gentle on the environment and promotes responsible and sustainable skincare
practices.

• Support for Local Communities: Some herbal soap brands may aim to support
local communities by sourcing herbs and botanicals from local farmers or
indigenous communities, promoting fair trade practices, and giving back to the
community. The objective is to create a soap that has a positive social impact and
contributes to the well-being of local communities.[26]

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[Link] OF WORK:

1. Collection

2. Processing of raw materials

[Link] of raw materials:-

a. Organoleptic evaluation
b. Microscopical evaluation
c. Physicochemical evaluation
d. Phytochemical Screening

4. Development of Herbal Soap

a. Extraction of herbal
b. Formulation of soap

5. Standardization of Herbal Soap

a. Colour
b. Odour o pH determination
c. Determination of viscosity
d. Spreadability
e. Irritancy
f. Wash ability
g. Compatibility

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[Link] AND METHOD

Collection of Materials/Ingredients: -

Neem oil, Coconut oil, olive oil was purchased from the local market. Sodium
hydroxide and Distilled water was obtained from our college. Following table
represent the list of ingredients used for the formulation of herbal soap.

Formula For Neem Soap:

[Link]. Ingredients Quantity

1 Distilled water 32.92gm

2 Lye (sodium hydroxide) 14.72gm

3 Olive oil 70gm

4 Coconut oil 25gm

5 Neem oil 5gm

6 Green colour 2-3 drops

7 Neem leaf 1

Table 1 : Formula for Neem Soap

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Herbal soap making process: -

The reaction between an alkali (like Sodium Hydroxide) and any neutral fatty
acid is the basic saponification reaction. In this reaction neutral fatty acid used
was coconut oil, olive oil and alkali used sodium hydroxide (lye).[30]

Procedure for Neem Soap: -

a) Weighed amount of coconut oil, olive oil, neem oil was poured in a beaker.

b) In another beaker, prepare the basic saponification reaction by adding

NaOH in distilled water.
c) Add the oil mixture in the solution of lye and mixed well with the help
of magnetic stirrer without heating involving the cold process of soap
formation.
d) Green colour added gradually with continue measurement of pH to achieve
between 6 to 7.

e) The soap mixture was then allowed to solidify and kept at room temperature.

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5.1EVALUATION PARAMETERS

• pH of the herbal soap: 10% of soap solution was prepared by dissolving

10 gm of soap in distilled water in a volumetric flask of 100 ml. For the
determination of pH, pH meter was used.
• Colour and clarity characterization: The soap was visualized against a
white background for the determination of its colour and to see the clarity
of the formulated herbal soap.
• Foam forming ability: For the determination of the herbal soap for its
ability to form foam about 1.0 gm of soap was taken and was dissolved in
distilled water (about 50ml) in a 100 ml graduated measuring cylinder. It
the measuring cylinder was then shaken for about 2- 3 minutes and it was
allowed to stand for about 10 min.
• Retention time of foam: Foam retention time refers to the time for which
the foam produced by the soap retains. The above procedure was repeated
and the foam interval was measured for about 5-10 minutes.
• Saponification value determination: The amount of Potassium
Hydroxide in milligrams which is required for the complete saponification
of fat or oil of 1 gm. For the determination of saponification value about 2
gm of the soap sample was taken in a conical flask and 0.5M KOH solution
was added to it. This mixture was heated to about 55 degree Celsius along
with stirring continuously on a hot water bath. Then the temperature was
further increased 100 degree Celsius and boiling was continued for 1hour
• Determination of TFM (total fatty matter): The procedure for the analysis of
total fatty matter present in the soap sample is carried out by the reaction of the
soap with an acid in association of hot water. In this procedure approximately
10g of the soap sample was taken and dissolved in 150 of water (distilled)
• Antimicrobial testing of the given sample: The given sample of the soap
was tested for its antimicrobial properties. By bore diffusion method. The
micro-organism used were E. coli. In this method soap solution was
prepared by dissolving 1g of soap in distilled water.

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DESCRIPTION OF SOAP:

NEEM SOAP:

Fig. 2. : Neem Soap

▪ Neem is an excellent skin care ingredient. The neem soap is known to relive a dry
skin and smooth the skin.

▪ It is rich in antifungal and antibacterial properties. It is protecting the skin from

bacteria and cleanses thoroughly from dirt and pollution. It can be used for all type
of skins.
▪ Being a natural handmade product there is bound to be variations in scent and
colour.

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[Link]

The herbal soap results of various evaluation parameters are shown in the table 2.
The tables depict that the pH of the herbal formation was between 6.5 to 7, which
was optimum for its utilization on the skin. Higher as well as lower pH refers to
the harmful effects on the skin.

The foaming index of the given herbal formulation as found to be 14.0ml while
the foam retention time was found to be 10-12 minutes for table 3. This means that
the lather producing ability of the soap was satisfactory and stable. The total fatty
matter determination was 72% for table 3. The quality of the soap is represented
by the total fatty matter. If the total fatty matter is lower, then it is not optimum for
the dry skin. Greater the fatty matter more it helps in moisturizing the skin. The
saponification value was found to be 163.2g/ml.

SR. Evaluation parameter Standard Observation

NO.

1 pH 7 6.7

2 Colour Green Yellowish Green

3 Form forming ability 15.0ml 14.0ml

4 Retention time of foam 10-15 10-12

Minutes Minutes

5 Saponification value determination 164.5g/ml 163.2g/ml

6 Total fatty matter 80% 72%

Table 2 : Evaluation of Soap

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[Link]

During this project work , we had finally achieved the desired results and
formulation to make the herbal soap which does not contain any harmful
chemicals. The pH is between 6.5 to 7. Herbal Soap was found to be skin friendly.
It was nice learning and a great achievement for us to prepare the herbal soap with
balanced pH. Further more, the prepared soap was evaluated by testing various
physicochemical properties such as pH appearance, colour, odour, antimicrobial,
TFM in which they exhibit satisfactory effect. It had excellent lathering as well as
cleansing power

All performed test are found to be satisfactory. The formulation has been
determined safe and can be used as promising alternative to commercial chemical
containing skin whitening soap.
Further research and awareness of herbal soaps can contribute to the growing interest
in using natural and eco-friendly skincare products.

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[Link]

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639.

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14. Reddy, Y. R. R., Kumari, C. K., Lokanatha, O., Mamatha, S., & Reddy, C. D.
(2013). Antimicrobial activity of Azadirachta Indica (neem) leaf, bark and seed
extracts. Int. J. Res. Phytochem. Pharmacol, 3(1), 1-4. 2.
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