CHAPTER 24.
GROUND TACKLE AND WARPS
Types of anchors. Selecting chain and line. Anchor winches. Snubbing devices. Mooring bits
or cleats. The bitter end. Dock lines and warps. Fenders. Anchor lockers. Hawse pipes.
Recommended anchor weights and chain sizes.
The owners of most cruising boats will be unable to afford or unwilling to pay the high insurance
premiums required when long distance cruising is planned. Most long distance cruising people
find that the yearly cost of insurance premiums would keep them in cruising funds for the
same period. If you are presently cruising locally, then your boat will most likely be covered by
a comprehensive insurance policy. Unfortunately you are in for a severe shock when you start
to enquire about purchasing cover for your boat which includes a long distance cruise. Armed
with the knowledge that very few cruising boats are lost at sea and those that come to grief are
mostly lost when at anchor; you should pay serious attention to the entire subject of anchoring
and associated gear. Even if you can afford to fully insure your boat (and yourself and crew)
you will still desire the feeling of security afforded by adequate anchor(s), chain and line all
collectively known as the ground tackle. Do not underestimate the seriousness of this subject;
it is all too easy to be complacent when sitting in a marina or lying in a snug anchorage.
Apart from the times where you are forced to anchor off a lee shore in a open harbour, a
howling gale and a strong contrary tide; there will be other times when you are ashore and you
can not even get back to your boat to improve the situation. If you vessel can not be left on it’s
own in all but the most threatening and inclement weather, then you will never feel free to
accept many invitations
ashore and you will miss
out on may of the most
enjoyable aspects of the
cruising lifestyle. So let us
consider just what
equipment you will need
to be able to safely anchor
your boat in the
conditions you are likely to
encounter once you
venture offshore.
Your anchor has to be
good. As experienced
cruising adventurer Alan
Lucas put it ‘When you
drop anchor you must be
able to say, I have arrived
and not, I am here as
long as the anchor holds.
HOW MANY ANCHORS
Two bower anchors, one
main and one spare, both
can be of the plough type or you may choose one plough and one ‘Bruce’; if your boat is over
40 ft (12.19m) then you may wish to add a heavy admiralty or fisherman type. You will also
need a dinghy anchor, a coral pick and a grapnel for retrieving fouled chain and line.
ADMIRALTY PATTERN
This is the style of anchor that comes to mind to non boating people when the word anchor is
used. This type has fallen out of favour with the cruising fraternity; it does have some desirable
features but many see it as old fashioned and select their ground tackle without giving this
type a thought. This anchor will hold in almost any bottom but it does have some drawbacks.
The fact that one fluke projects above the ground makes it subject to fouling when the vessel
swings due to a change in wind or tide. As a stern anchor, the admiralty pattern has a lot of
merit and under these conditions the head of the vessel will be secured by your main anchor.
In conditions where lack of space or other factors make it desirable to moor the vessel fore
and aft, then you may find the admiralty pattern anchor very much to your liking. As this anchor
needs to be collapsed for convenient stowing, it will have to be ‘made up’ before it can be
reset.
CQR OR THE PLOUGH TYPE
These are the anchors that were until recently the most commonly seen devices gracing the
bows of many cruising boats. Several new and redesigned types have in part usurped the
CQR as the most popular cruising anchor. If you have limited knowledge in this field than you
could choose this pattern for you main anchor, safe in the knowledge that it has been a well
proven friend to thousands of cruising yachtsmen in the past.
This anchor is easy to stow either on a specially short bowsprit/anchor roller or on deck. It
even stows readily into a reasonably sized anchor or chain locker. If you could only carry one
anchor then the CQR or plough type would be the one to choose. (Make no mistake, never
carry only one anchor; even the smallest cruising boat will need a back up anchor and
accompanying chain and or line.) Faults in this type of anchor are rare, however very
occasionally a weakness will show up by way of a crack in the casting where the shank meets
the bow; make sure you inspect this area on a regular basis. To summarise the attributes of
the CQR, it holds well in mud and sand, needs care when setting it in weed, and should be
seriously considered when selecting your number one anchor.
DANFORTH AND DANFORTH TYPES
Danforth type anchors are a good choice for your number two anchoring system; they hold
well in mud or sand. These Danforth types have only one main weakness and that is in the
size and strength of the shank. I have seen several which sported very distorted shanks while
the rest of the anchor remained intact. It is possible to obtain this type made entirely of high
tensile or stainless steel.
This anchor stows flat but does have a number of corners to catch lines at awkward moments;
it you stow your Danforth type anchor on deck, make sure it is secured in proper chocks and
is out of the way where it is unlikely to catch sheets etc. Most cruising people agree that they
would choose the Danforth type as their second anchor.
BRUCE ANCHOR
This type is a more recent development and has gained a lot of admirers at the expense of
both the CQR and the Danforth patterns. The ‘Bruce’ has similar characteristics to the CQR
type however it is a one piece unit and offers some benefits in that regard. The Bruce sits well
on any well designed bow roller arrangement and should be considered for either your number
one or two anchor.
CORAL ANCHOR
The Coral pick as it is affectionately known, is an anchor that as it’s name suggests, has been
developed for anchoring in coral. With more attention being paid to conservation matters,
however it may be an offence to either deliberately anchor in or use this type of pick in any
coral outcrop. The idea behind this type, is that it will hold in the coral by the individual tangs.
The tangs will bend straight and release when you move over the anchor.
MUSHROOM ANCHOR
This is used for those occasions where you intend to stay for a long period and where no
satisfactory permanent moorings are otherwise available. The anchor would be most likely
made up on location and not carried on board. You may not trust the local moorings and as it
is usually impossible to inspect them thoroughly even by diving, you may decide to create your
own. If you do decide to lay your own mooring then make sure you have adequate very heavy
chain laid out from the mushroom anchor especially if you intend to turn this mooring into an
all weather haven. You must use a suitably sized swivel between the end of the heavy chain
and your regular mooring chain.
ANCHOR WEIGHTS
For your main anchors (non-specialised types) you can budget for units that weigh one pound
for each foot of you boat’s overall length [1.5 kg per meter of boat length]. If you are planning
extensive stays in foreign parts where you may have to rely exclusively on your ground tackle,
then you should carry at least one anchor that is double the 1 lb to 1 ft (or 2 lb per 1 ft of boat)
guideline. More accurate weight guidelines can be recommended by the manufactures of the
various types of anchors. Excellent performance figures have been published in recent years
ABOVE: Twin anchor winches are a nice touch as is shown on the Roberts 532.
of the extensive testing undertaken for and by the various boating magazines. As well as the
anchors already mentioned, you may require a selection of specialised types, depending on
where you intend to cruise.
ANCHOR CABLES
The serious offshore cruiser may carry the following inventory; main anchor 300 ft (90 m)
short link tested chain, matched to your winch gypsy and marked at regular intervals so you
can judge the amount you have laid. Two 50 ft (15 m) lengths of the same chain to act as
leaders for the anchors fitted with rope line or cable. Three by 300 ft (90 m) heavy nylon line
for use with second bow or stern anchors. You may want to consider having these lines on
spools to facilitate handling and stowage. For the coastal cruiser or one that is too small to
reasonably carry the inventory as suggested above, then you can modify this list to suit your
requirements.
Chain is not necessarily the strongest anchor cable available but it is the most widely used
and for many good reasons. Chain is very resistant to chafe where it lies over rocks and
whatever else is lurking on the bottom ready to cut, chafe or otherwise separate your boat from
your well set anchor. If you are intending to cruise far from home then it is recommended you
carry at least one set of all chain ground tackle. Make sure you select adequate size chain,
(see suggested sizes), inspect it regularly and replace it when it shows any sign of wear. All
shackles should be secured using soft stainless wire. As with anchors do not stint on the cost
of this item.
Rope line can be used in combination with chain to make up your second set of ground tackle.
As mentioned earlier two sets of all chain make for the best security, however if weight is a
problem or if you carry a third anchor, then a rope/chain combination is acceptable. The chain
should be about twenty five percent of the total length of the total. Again pay particular attention
to the arrangement of shackles, splices and other joining arrangements.
Recently woven nylon reel mounted lines have come on the market; the idea is to mount one of
these arrangements in or near the cockpit or stern. These and other similar arrangements can
be acceptable only
in addition to your
two main fore and
aft anchoring
arrangements as
discussed earlier.
THE BITTER
END
Unless you are
student of nautical
terms or an
experienced sailor
you have probably
heard this term
and wondered
what it meant. The
bitter end is the
inboard end of the
anchor chain which should be attached to a eye in the anchor locker or to another appropriate
location. The safest way to attach the bitter end to the strong point is to lash it on with several
turns of strong line; the lashing should be of sufficient strength to take the strain in the event
you accidentally let all of the chain run out of the locker. The reason for lashing and not bolting
or using a shackle is so in an emergency you can ‘slip’ the chain by cutting the lashing. As a
general guide, when choosing anchor chain you may use the following sizes as a guide only.
Boats LOA to 25 ft [7.62 M] 1/4 in [6 mm]
Boats 25 ft to 30 ft [ 9.14 M] 5/16 in [8 mm]
Boats 30 ft to 40 ft [12.19 M] 3/8 in [10 mm]
Boats 40 ft to 50 ft [15.24 M] 1/2 in [12 mm]
Boats 50 ft to 60 ft [18.29 M] 5/8 in [15 mm]
These sizes can only be a guide for preliminary estimation of weights and similar calculations.
The exact chain sizes will depend on you intended cruising grounds and the conditions you
are likely to encounter.
MOORING LINES
You will need a variety of mooring lines and warps. At least two of these lines should be two
and one half times the length of your boat, add another four lines that are one and a half times
you boats length and finally two that are about the same as your boat’s LOD. There are several
types of synthetic line available and each has its advantages and drawbacks. For myself I
prefer plaited lines similar to the ones used for sheets.
OTHER ANCHORING HARDWARE
Here are a few items that you will require to assist in safely anchoring your boat; an anchor
light, electric with a hurricane lamp as a back-up, and a good spot light for picking out hazards
in the dark. Make sure you carry a pair of polarised sun glasses; you will need these to see the
bottom in strong sunlight and they are great for picking out coral heads and other underwater
obstructions. Tested galvanised shackles for each anchor plus spares. One coil of soft sizing
wire. One large shackle for running weight of trip line down main chain cable. Two heavy duty
swivels, two heavy duty hooks one shackled to 1/2" [12 mm] rubber snubber. A suitable buoy
for marking the location of your anchor. Don’t forget a bucket and brushes for scrubbing down
the chain and anchor as it comes aboard. Anti chafe gear: A selection of anti chafe gear will
get plenty of use and should include, split heavy plastic pipe that will fit over chains, spare
rags and cord to secure anti-chafe material in place. There are many other items that are
associated with anchoring such as depth sounder, dinghy for laying kedge anchors etc., however
these items are covered in some detail elsewhere.
Choosing a place to anchor is one of the most important decisions you will have to make
each time you reach a new port. You may be tired, relieved to have reached this destination
and tempted to drop the hook at the first likely spot. Not a good idea, you must seek out a safe
spot that has reasonable access to the shore. You will most likely find the best spots are
already occupied by the locals!
When selecting a location to anchor you should consider the following: Availability of facilities
such as dinghy landing as well as negative factors such as the proximity of shipping movements
and obvious dangers such as wrecks and reefs. You should consider the direction of likely
adverse weather, and exposure to wave action, length of fetch, the depth of water and the tidal
range. You will need swinging room to avoid the shallows, other craft, fairways and wrecks.
Before you set your anchor in the spot that you hope will be your location until you are ready
to move, you must ascertain the type of bottom. Your choice may lie between mud, sand,
broken coral or less desirable heavy weed, general debris or old moorings.
ANCHOR WINCH
Now that you are equipped with the correct number and types of anchors you will need to turn
your attention to the methods used to lower and more importantly raise the entire set of ground
tackle. In my early days of sailing, the boats I owned were not equipped with anchor winches;
these were considered devices required by old men! Now that I am an older and hopefully a
wiser man, I pay a lot of attention to selecting the correct anchor winch and associated
equipment. My current attitudes make anchor handling, if not a pleasure, at least not too
onerous a chore.
Hand operated anchor winches come in a wide variety of types and sizes and it is impossible
to list the most suitable type for every type of ground tackle. If you select a well known brand
that has been proven over a number of years and seek the manufacturers advice you will be
well on the way to making the right choice. The two speed variety offer obvious advantages.
If your boat is over 40 ft (12.19 m) or if your crew is not physically strong or your pocket is
deep enough, then either an electric or hydraulic anchor winch is worth the investment. In any
case make sure that the winch can be operated both mechanically as well as in its powered
mode.
When setting up your anchor winch make sure the chain and gypsy are perfectly matched
otherwise you will be forever clearing jams and your gypsy will be subjected to undue wear.
Vetus Den Ouden and other winch manufacturers offer matching winch/chain combination
and these are worth your consideration.
Anchor handling should be as easy as possible. The leads between the winch and the
anchor roller must be arranged so that there is the minimum of friction caused by any unfair
leading of the chain. The bow rollers should be as large as practical and arranged so the chain
can not jump out when you are winding it in, or as it runs out. If you do not have an anchor
bowsprit (recommended) then make sure the anchor rollers project as far forward as possible,
this will avoid damage to your topsides.
ANCHOR CLEATS
It is most important to have an adequate anchor cleat, sampson post or other arrangement for
securing the anchor chain. Simply letting the winch take the strain is not good enough. Make
sure you have a method of securing the chain so it will not accidentally run out when put
under extreme stress in the event something goes amiss with your winch. In the event that you
vessel needs to be towed, then you will need to have a very strong cleat or other arrangement
for securing the tow line.
BUOYING THE ANCHOR
Buoying your anchor is recommended when you drop the hook on a dubious bottom. If you
feel there may be debris, other anchor chain or when anchoring in coral it is recommended
that you buoy the anchor. Use a trip line so you can come up onto and over the anchor and
then trip it using the buoyed line. This may also have another use if you have to slip your
anchor in an emergency; you may be able to return and recover your anchor at a later date. It
is a good idea to mark your buoy ‘Anchor buoy only - do not touch’, hopefully this will stop
someone else from using your buoyed anchor arrangement as a mooring when you are asleep,
or temporarily away from your vessel.
CHAIN STOWAGE
Chain should be stowed as low as possible. As a designer I am aware of the problems of
getting the chain low versus not allowing the chain locker to intrude too far into the
accommodation. Perhaps it would be a good idea if the US Coastguard rule that there must be
a watertight bulkhead five percent aft of the forward end of the DWL, was a requirement for all
cruising boats; this would make for an adequate chain locker. I favour an arrangement where
the chain locker is divided by a fore and aft bulkhead, this could be an extra strength factor
while allowing you to stow two complete sets of ground tackle without them becoming entangled
as has happened to most of us on more than one occasion.
A deck mounted chain pipe is a good arrangement since it funnels the chain down to where
you want it and allows the opening to be closed off making an almost watertight arrangement.
On K*I*S*S there are twin chain pipes each with a screw down plastic cover that ensures
absolute watertightness.
If the
distance from
the deck
opening to
where the
chain enters its
stowage area
is an
appreciable
distance then
a sloped pipe
will be required to guide the chain to its stowage destination. The pipe should be set at an
angle and for quietness of operation, a strong plastic pipe is recommended.
MOORING BITTS
On my own boat I prefer mooring bitts to cleats. Cleats are fine for sail handling and control
but when you have the weight of the entire boat plus a surging action wanting to separate the
line from your boat, then a well built set of bitts is preferred. Six of these fittings should suffice
on boats up to 55 ft (16.76 m), one pair up near the
bow, one pair amidships and another near the stern.
These bitts make the best termination for your mooring
lines and will provide a perfect arrangement should you
decide to take your sailboat through some of the canals
and waterways of Europe, the USA and elsewhere.
ANCHOR LOCKER
The anchor locker is usually below decks so it has to be
considered along with the accommodation layout. You will
want to decide if you want the self draining variety, that is
one where the drains are at the bottom of the locker and
where the locker is sealed off from the rest of the boat. Water
can drain out; it can also flush in through the drain holes. I
prefer a locker that drains via a pipe down to the bilge to the
area where the bilge pump is located.
Many cruising boats carry two anchors in the forward anchor locker however very few are divided so
that the rope anchor line and or chains do not become mixed between the two anchors. Generally the
main anchor, plough or ‘Bruce’ (no relation) style is kept stowed on bow rollers or small bowsprit and
ready for use. The secondary anchor, usually a ‘Danforth type’ is stowed in the locker along with its
rope and/or chain. Some anchor lockers are arranged so that the chain runs through a tube down
towards the centre of the boat thus putting the weight where it can contribute to the stability of the
vessel. If you decide to arrange your anchor chain in this manner, make sure that you can gain access
to assist the chain to stow neatly and also ensure that it can not get loose in the event of a knockdown.
In the case of a third anchor, you may want to consider carrying this at or near the stern where it can be
useful in situations where you wish to anchor fore and aft.
FENDERS
If you are to protect your boat from external damage when you are in harbour or moving
through any of the worlds canals, then you will need a good supply of fenders. The most
sensible type are home made from small car tyres that are covered with a fabric to keep the
black off your topsides. If you prefer the bought variety then choose a dark colour. In any case
you will need at least five per side and if you are very protective towards your topsides you
could consider a ‘horse blanket’ type of cover that is slung between your topsides and the
fenders. Fender socks look great on boats that are seldom used but they soon become tatty
with everyday use.
BOARDING PLANK
While a boarding plank has nothing to do with anchoring it can be used as an ultimate fender.
When lying along side a wall where there are intermittent posts normal fenders will not do the
job. The plank, usually a builders scaffold plank is a good start, and is fitted with a hole each
end so it can take a line and be slung outside the fenders to keep your topsides away from
damage.
ABOVE and BELOW: The fold down section of the transom combined with a boarding plank
makes a nice arrangement especially if you are cruising in Europe where stern to moooring is
commmonplace.
