CT-MMB.
189
BUTTONS & BUTTONHOLES
BUTTONS Selection
Button selection depends on the type and style
Buttons can be fascinating, functional, and of the garment. Buttons should be selected
fashionable. They are fascinating because of their BEFORE making buttonholes or button loops.
many sizes, shapes, colors, and designs. They are Consider the following when making your
functional because they are one of the major selection:
methods of opening and closing garments. Buttons
are fashionable because they also decorate and $ The pattern will have a suggested size which
enhance apparel & other items. was determined as the pattern was being
made. If the button size is changed, so must
the size of the button and buttonhole placket.
$ Weight of fabric B Heavy fabric needs
heavier and larger buttons; lighter fabric
needs lighter and smaller buttons.
$ Fabric design B Buttons can blend with the
History fabric OR they can call attention to the area.
The term is from the French word, bouton, To call attention to the area use solid colored
meaning a round object. Since the 13th century, buttons on prints and patterned buttons on
buttons have been used as fasteners. Before that, solid color fabrics.
they were used more for their decorative and
symbolic value.
Today, buttons continue to be used as decoration,
but their placement once served a useful purpose.
For instance buttons on the back of men’s coats
served as a way to fasten coat tails up out of the $ Use a smooth, flat-textured button on smooth
way when riding on horseback. During Frederick textured fabrics. Shiny buttons are best on
the Great=s reign, it was customary for three decorative, shiny fabrics.
buttons to be used on the sleeve of a coat; some $ Garment style B Buttons should compliment
say this was to keep sentries from rubbing their the garment style and design lines of the
cuff across their nose. King Edward VII started pattern.
the custom of unbuttoning the last vest button after
a large meal.
Traditionally, men=s garments button left over
right. However, at one time, both men’s and
women’s wear had buttons on the left. During the
Middle Ages, men’s buttons were changed to the
right to enable one to open the coat with the left
hand and draw their sword from across the left hip
with the right hand.
$ Care B if washable or drycleanable, select Standards
buttons that require the same care as the
completed garment. Well constructed buttons and buttonholes
$ Coordinate buttons with the type of fabric. should:
For example, pick up a color or theme from
$ Be neat in appearance on the right and
the fabric (flower with flower, heart with
heart).
wrong side of the garment.
$ Hold the garment securely and properly
closed without strain or stress.
Buttons should:
$ Fit the purpose for which they are
$ Match or contrast buttons to the fabric. You intended B functional or decorative.
can be creative by selecting contrasting $ Be securely fastened with double thread
buttons. and neat stitches.
$ If at all possible, use an odd number since
$ Have a shank (thread and/or as part of the
this is more interesting than an even number.
$ Generally speaking, if you cannot match the
button) to accommodate the fabric
button color, select a slightly darker color. thickness when closure is fastened. The
button should rest just above the
Styles buttonhole when fastened.
There are a variety of button styles such as:
$ see-though
$ fabric covered
$ ball and half ball dome
$ irregular shapes and sizes $ Be reinforced, according to their use and
the fabric type, with interfacing and/or
another button.
Buttons can be made of plastic, metal, wood,
leather, glass, and other natural materials. They
can have designs that are stamped into the surface
or onto the button. Buttons designed to be $ Be spaced, in good proportion, between
covered with fabric to match the garment are the two ends of the opening.
generally made of metal or plastic. They may need $ Be spaced in good proportion and in
to be lined when a sheer fabric is used. Some relationship to the other buttons.
fabrics may be backed with a fusible interfacing to $ Be positioned on the center opening line
control raveling. and in correct relationship to the placket.
$ Be the appropriate size and style for
garment design and the fabric.
$ Have no rough edges.
$ Be smooth when covered with fabric and
have Ano-shine@ or off-color visible from
the base.
2
The placket should be smooth and flat; no $ Smaller buttons are generally placed
gaping or pulling when buttons are secured in closer together while larger buttons may
the buttonholes. be spaced further apart.
Covering Buttons
In certain situations, a covered button is the
button of choice. Covered buttons lend a very
tailored and/or expensive look to a suit, dress Sewing
or gown. Sometimes the right button color or Buttons are one of the last items to be sewn to
texture cannot be found. Thus, covered the garment. They are applied after the
buttons can and do fit the closure need. buttonholes or loops have been made or
attached. Here are some other considerations:
When covering buttons, they must be neat and
$ Pulling the hand sewing thread through
well constructed. Kits are available with
beeswax before starting helps prevent
directions. However, here are some hints:
tangles when hand sewing.
$ If a washable fabric is being used,
$ Use topstitching, buttonhole thread, or
dampen the fabric slightly after it has
carpet thread to sew on buttons, especially
been cut from the pattern. The fabric will
on heavier fabrics.
be easier to handle and mold to the button
$ If the holes in flat buttons are large
form.
enough, tie the button to the garment
$ When using sheer or lightweight fabrics;
using narrow ribbon or cord. This is
fuse fabric to a lining before covering the
recommended if using buttons that must
button. This will give it a bit more body
be removed before cleaning.
and prevent the form from showing
$ Sew flat four-hole buttons in a decorative
through when covered.
stitching pattern such as X, 9, or tulip
formation.
Placement
$ All functional buttons must have a shank.
Patterns are designed for a specific button
The shank length (real and/or thread)
size
should measure the thickness of the fabric
that is stated on the back of the pattern
layers through which it will be buttoned.
envelope under “Notions”. The
The button sits above the fabric; a thin
button/buttonhole placket and the center line
shank can fit in the buttonhole. (Figure 1)
mark have been specifically designed with
this size in mind. If a different size button is
used, adjustments must be made to the placket
before the garment is cut in order to maintain
the proper fit of the garment. Unless you are
Figure 1
an experienced sewer and understand how
this in done, use the size button recommended When the button is for decoration only, sew it
on the pattern. to the garment flatBno shank.
Buttons are placed in accordance with the $ Catch only a thread or two of the facing.
buttonhole. Buttonholes must be made before Do not sew the button all the way through
buttons are attached to the garment. the facing.
$ Hide the knot and securing threads under
$ Buttons are sewn on the center line the button OR between the fabric layers.
marking (center front, center back, cuff, (Figure 2)
etc.) as indicated on the pattern.
3
shanks to prevent the built-on shanks from
stretching (springing) the buttonhole. The
purpose of a button shank is to raise the
button above and through the hole so that it
Figure 2
sits above the buttonhole. Button shanks
Bbuilt-on or threadBmust be small and thin.
By Hand - Buttons without built-on shank If a longer shank is needed, add an object or
Use a double strand of either all-purpose, provide some Agive@ in the thread as the
topstitching, or buttonhole thread. Begin on button is being stitched to the garment. Stitch
the center line marking. through the fabric, interfacing and button
Step 1 - Secure beginning thread with a knot shank 6 times. Secure as you do a button
or a couple of stitches between the folds of without a build-on shankBsee directions
fabric. Hide the knot or clip any loose above.
threads that may show.
Step 2 - Bring the thread up to the right side By Machine B Buttons without built-on
of the fabric and through a hole in the shank
button. Thread it back through an adjacent Some sewing machines may be equipped to
hole. sew on 2- or 4-hole buttons. Check the
Step 3 - Pull the thread allowing for a sewing machine manual for specific
sufficient thread shank (use toothpick, shank information and directions. Remember that
gauge, pin, or leave give) between the button functional buttons require a shank. Therefore,
and the fabric. make provisions to sew over Aan object@ to
Step 4 - Go into the first layer of fabric and make the needed shank.
the interfacing, picking up several threads of
the facing. Slant needle toward the same
general location where thread came up
through the fabric to the right side. (This will
help create a “thin” rather than thick thread
shank.)
Step 5 - Continue stitching in the same place
Figure 4
for approximately 6 stitches. (Figure 3)
Step 6 - If a toothpick, shank gauge, or pin
was used to form the thread shank, remove BUTTONHOLES
it, and pull the button to the top of the
thread. Wind thread around the stitches Buttonholes are companions to buttons when
under the button. (Figure 3) Secure thread at a button and buttonhole closure is the desired
the bottom of the thread stem. method to open and close a garment. Their
size, shape, and placement depend on the
button. Therefore, buttons must be purchased
before any consideration can be give to the
buttonholes.
Figure 3 Buttons must be purchased before buttonholes
can be made.
By Hand B Buttons with built-on shank
Buttons with a shank vary by size and
thickness of the shank. Buttons with thick or
large built-on shanks require additional thread
4
Standards buttonhole made on the sewing machine
In addition to the standards previously listed with a special attachment or a built-in
for both buttons and buttonholes, the pattern on the machine that must be
following apply. selected.
Hand-worked - a thread-lipped buttonhole
Well-constructed buttonholes should be: made by hand or first worked on the
$ Flat and attractive. machine and then finished with hand
$ Made with the grain of the fabric, unless a stitching.
bias-cut garment or unusual design In-seam - used when the garment design
dictates otherwise. has an appropriate seam that can be left
$ An equal distance from the garment edge open (unstitched) to accommodate the
and in conjunction with the center line or button.
lap line. Loops - cord or small fabric strips used
$ Sized according to the button size, button with buttons to connect garment pieces.
thickness and the fabric thickness. They are frequently used with ball and
$ The same length and width throughout the dome-shaped buttons.
area. Bound - a fabric-lipped buttonhole used
in tailored garments.
For additional information and
publications, talk with your local county
agent.
Figure 5
$ Spaced according to the size of the button
and the garment design/function.
$ Applied to an area that has been properly Figure 6
interfaced. Buttonholes are not made until the buttons
$ Positioned so the button in a horizontal have been selected and carefully measured.
buttonhole can be secured and will ride
slightly toward the garment edge. Regardless of the type of buttonhole to be
$ Positioned so the button in a vertical used, it is a good idea to make one or more
buttonhole can be secured and will ride samples. Samples are made to check the:
toward the top of the buttonhole. $ Suitability to the fabric.
$ Neatly slashed and unsightly threads $ Suitability and color of the thread
removed. (machine-worked).
$ Made with secure stitching; and, $ Size of the buttonhole in relation to the
$ Have uniform Alips@ or edges throughout. button.
$ Skill of the sewer, and to perfect the
technique if necessary!
Types /Forms
Buttonholes can take many forms. The The sample buttonhole should always be
design of the garment and the fabric help made using the same fabric, interfacing fabric
determine the type of buttonhole to use. and thread that will be used on the garment.
Machine-worked B a thread-lipped
5
Duplicate the garment area as closely as
possible.
Hint: Save and use the sample test piece
used to determine the most suitable
interfacing fabric. Be sure to use the correct
sampleBas you may have tested several
Figure 9
interfacing fabrics before selecting the most
suitable one.
• Begin placement with the button/
Placement
buttonhole at the greatest amount of
There are several points to consider in the
stress; i.e., bustline, shoulder blade, etc.
placement of buttonholes.
(Figure 9)
• Try on the garment, with the belt to be
• The distance from the neckline to the
worn with it, and mark the placement of
buttonhole should equal the diameter of
the first three buttonholes (greatest
the button plus 3-inch.
amount of stress, top edge, and from the
• Space the buttonhole the same distance
waistline/belt).
from the waistline/top of the belt as the
• Use horizontal buttonholes when a
space between the other buttonholes.
garment fits closer to the body.
• For full-length button/buttonhole
Horizontal buttons withstand stress
plackets, refer to the pattern. Generally,
better than vertical buttonholes.
the bottom button should be at least 4 to
(Figure 7)
5 inches above the hemline.
• Vertical buttonholes are worked on the
center line marking.
Figure 7
• Buttonholes are usually placed on the
right front of women=s garments and the
left front of men=s. If buttons are placed
on the left back of the garment,
placement will vary according to the
Figure 10
design.
$ Horizontal buttonholes begin c-inch out
in the overlap beyond the center marking
and extend back into the body of the
garment.
$ The maximum distance for small buttons
and the minimum distance for large
buttons to the front edge of the garment is
Figure 8
¼-inch. Half of the diameter of the button
• Spacing is determined by stress points, is standard for medium and large buttons.
size of button, and the design of the (Figure 11)
fabric (such as plaid, stripe, or
flower).
Figure 11
6
Determining Size $ Basting stitches (hand or machine) to
The size of the buttonhole for most buttons is show where to begin, end, as well as the
determined by measuring the diameter of the placement of the buttonhole.
button, plus the button thickness, plus c-inch. $ Transparent tape to mark where to
begin, end, and where to place the
buttonhole.
$ Fabric marking pen (washable - be sure
to check on a fabric scrap).
$ Pins.
$ Soap slivers on washable fabric.
Be sure the markings are on-grain. Mark
Figure 12 appropriately for horizontal or vertical
Some exceptions to this formula are: buttonholes.
1. Very small buttons where less length is
needed. Making a sample is an important step to insure
2. Dome or round buttons. To determine the appropriate length of the buttonhole.
buttonhole size for a ball button, place a
string around the button, remove, and
fold in half. Sewing B Machine-worked Buttonholes
3. Fabric-covered buttons of heavy fabrics When making a machine or hand-worked
where more length is needed. To save buttonhole, the garment should be finished.
wear and tear on buttonholes, they need The last two steps are the buttonholes and
to be large enough for buttons to slip buttons.
through, but small enough to prevent
unbuttoning during wear. Refer to your sewing machine manual for
specific directions on how buttonholes can be
Interfacing made by your machine. It may be necessary to
Both the buttonhole and button areas of the protect the fabric when slipping it in and out
garment should be interfaced to stabilize the from under the presser foot or buttonhole
fabric and to prevent stretching. attachment.
In some situations it may be necessary to
further stabilize or protect the area where
buttonholes are to be placed. For example,
very stretchy fabrics need to be stabilized so
the fabric will not stretch when machine- Figure 14
worked buttonholes are required.
Consider using tissue pattern on top of and/or
Figure 13 underneath the fabric. The tissue can be
easily torn away from the stitching area.
Thread-worked buttonholes can be one of
three shapes: rectangular, oval, or keyhole.
All three of these can be made by hand. Not
Marking all machines or machine attachments will
There are several methods of transferring offer all three shapes.
buttonhole markings to the garment. Use the
one most suited to the fabric.
7
Occasionally it will be necessary to remove or
rip out a buttonhole. Take your time and be
very careful not to damage the fabric. If at all
possible, work between the garment and
facing as much as possible. (Figure 17)
Figure 15
The keyhole makes provision for a larger
shank. However, this buttonhole is not
appropriate for all types of garments. It is
especially recommended for coats, jackets,
and heavy-duty use.
HINT: Stitching around the buttonhole twice Figure 17
may be necessary for strength and sufficient thread
coverage.
Always carefully trim away any excess
Corded Buttonholes threads from the opening. A small amount of
Sometimes raised lips on a buttonhole are liquid seam sealant around the lips will
desirable. The addition of a small cord (held prevent further raveling.
so the stitching covers the cord) provides
strength, durability, style, and prevents When finished, carefully steam/press the area
buttonhole lips from stretching out of shape. unless the fabric cannot be steamed/pressed.
Follow your sewing machine directions for
applying. Sewing B Hand-worked Buttonholes
Begin by stitching a small rectangle by
Slashing Open Machine-worked machine, using a very short machine stitch
Buttonholes (12 to 14 stitches per inch). The width of the
Machine-worked buttonholes must be cut rectangle should not be more than 3-inch
open after they have been stitched. Take a (each lip is c-inch wide). The buttonhole
great deal of care when cutting the buttonhole length is the same as for machine-worked
open. Use one of the following methods: buttonholes.
$ A special buttonhole cutting device.
$ A very sharp-pointed pair of small Carefully slash the opening through the
scissors. center. Use a double strand of all-purpose
thread or buttonhole thread for working the
It is further recommended that you do the buttonhole stitch. Start and end stitching in
following: one end of the buttonhole.
$ Place pins at both ends of the buttonhole,
when using a pair of sharp pointed To do the buttonhole stitch:
scissors, cut to each pin. 1. Hide thread ends between the layers of
$ Place a pin in the middle of the buttonhole fabric. Take a stitch and lock the thread.
then cut with a seam ripper from each end 2. Take a stitch in the lip, and wrap the thread
to the middle. Finish up with a pair of around and underneath the needle forming a
scissors in the middle if necessary. loop. (Figure 18)
3. Pull the stitch tight, making sure the tiny
loop rests at the edge of the lip opening.
4. Continue around the opening.
Figure 16 5. Make stitches as close together as possible.
8
When loops are used, the pattern provides for
an underlap extension, but there is no overlap
or extension beyond the center front line.
Loops are positioned along the center front
Figure 18 before the facing is attached to the garment.
The loops are caught in a seam and extend
For more information on the buttonhole stitch, over to the adjacent garment piece where the
refer to CT-MMB.002, Hand Stitches. buttons are positioned.
When positioning the cording it may be easier
to bend and form each loop with a continuous
Constructing Buttonhole Loops length of cord instead of cutting individual
Loop closures are functional and decorative. lengths for each loop. After pinning the loops
They may be of self-fabric cording, fabric- in place, stitch, and then add the facing.
covered cording, thread, trim, or purchased
cording. If fabric-covered cording is to be SUMMARY
made, follow these steps:
$ Cut a bias strip the necessary width to Buttons and buttonholes are easy fasteners to
cover the cording plus small seam construct when you take the time to measure
allowances (c-inch) and the desired and check yourself by making a sample.
length.
$ Cut cording twice the desired length.
$ Fold the right side of the fabric over the
cord and stitch close to the cording using
a zipper foot.
$ Pull the fabric back over the remaining
exposed cord.
$ If self-fabric tubes are used, place the
sewing machine thread or yarn close to
the fabric fold. Stitch and then use
thread/yarn to turn the fabric tube.
Prepared by Nadine Hackler, Associate Professor Extension Clothing Specialist. First Published: 1985 Revised December 1998.
Permission to use granted by the Institute of Food & Agriculture Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville, Florida.
Adapted for use in Kentucky by:
Linda Heaton, Ph.D., Extension Specialist for Clothing & Textiles
April 2004
Revised by:
Marjorie M. Baker, M.S.
Extension Associate for Clothing & Textiles
October 2006
Copyright © 2007 for materials developed by University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension. This publication may be reproduced in portions or its
entirety for educational or nonprofit purposes only. Permitted users shall give credit to the author(s) and include this copyright notice.
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