0% found this document useful (0 votes)
80 views290 pages

Book Stowa Highresolution 2018 Cover

Uploaded by

hackmejl
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
0% found this document useful (0 votes)
80 views290 pages

Book Stowa Highresolution 2018 Cover

Uploaded by

hackmejl
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 290

Zukunft braucht Herkunft.

(future always needs a past) (Odo Marquard)

Page 1
STOWA Museum. 2018.

Page 2
Dear reader,

In 1927, Walter Storz founded a watch factory in Hornberg/Black Forest.


STOWA watches are sold in over 80 countries – without discontinuation – to this
day. This year we celebrate our 90th anniversary with some special events and
limited watch Editions. On the following pages, you can read about our history,
the present and an exciting future. Company founder Walter Storz built, inter alia,
several corporate buildings (Pforzheim and Rheinfelden) and passed the compa-
ny to his son Werner Storz in the sixties, who went on to successfully leading it
until 1996. In 1996, Werner Storz had a desire to go into well-earned retirement
and found a successor in me. I had to confirm in writing that I’ll continue the
good name of STOWA. Continuing this success story is a beautiful and exciting
task and has been my main goal since then. Since the acquisition, we have been
trying very carefully to reissue the STOWA classics. But in order to continue the
success story in the future, I believe that we have to try and dare something new
- with the necessary respect for one‘s own origins. Therefore, I have built a new
building in 2009, in which, inter alia, the STOWA Museum is located. Since 2006,
we also sell our watches at absolutely fair prices only directly to our worldwide
clientele. The new corporate slogan: beautiful. good. true. describes our pur-
suit to always do the best for you and your passion: the love for beautiful and
high-quality watches Made in Germany. New and innovative watch models that
enrich our collection also show the bold and ambitious step forward. Now enjoy
browsing through the story of STOWA and looking at our latest collection and
the new limited Editions. Feel the STOWA lifestyle!

Your

Jörg Schauer (owner and CEO of STOWA)

Page 3
6 The STOWA World
STOWA. Content.
Collection overview and Lifestyle.

36 Manufactury history and STOWA Building


Watches Made in Germany. Since 1927.

42 Phylosophy & Suistanability


beautiful. good. true.

44 Manufactory today
Watchmakers and Goldsmith. Workingplaces.

48 Awards
Many STOWA watches are internationally awarded.

52 Flieger Classic & Flieger Classic Sport


The STOWA classic. 36 mm - 43 mm cases available.

92 Flieger Contemporary
Modern Flieger watches. Technically optimized.

114 Antea Classic


Our Design line. Watches in the Bauhaus style.

132 Antea back to bauhaus


Bauhaus design refreshed. Modern and colorful.

146 Marine Classic


The elegant watch line.

166 Partitio
Beautiful and functional. With fine scaling.

172 Chronographs
Classical mechanical chronographs.

190 Sport
Robust sport watches. Tradition of STOWA.

212 Rana
Innovative and uncompromising. Since Fiction.

228 Jörg Schauer. Designer for STOWA


Schauer design and watches. Full of character.

258 Dial, the face of the watch


History of dial design. 1921 till today. Page 5
Offline is the new luxury...
I recently read this in an interview with the Salewa CEO Heiner
Oberrauch. How right he is!

What better way to take a timeout in the seclusion of the


mountains? A break from the hustle and bustle of everyday
life, getting away from the digital world where we are increas-
ingly trapped. Hardly a moment in which one is not caught up,
disturbed and taken back to our duties by our digital helpers.

Of course, all of this is voluntary; there still is a lot of pressure


that more and more people want to escape during their pre-
cious time off. Whether it is in the tranquility of the mountains,
experiencing a refreshing breeze at a lake or during a casual
get-together with your friends.

We offer the analogue timepieces that primarily emphasize


your personal style and are still meticulously crafted for you
in the Black Forest in Germany. With a mechanical watch from
STOWA, you accentuate your own individual style and also
consciously choose a sustainable quality product.

Not a flashy mass-produced luxury product, but an expressive


and handcrafted accessory. Our clean and timeless design will
help you leave the pressures of everyday life behind you.

On the following pages we have captured a few pleasant mo-


ments that you can experience with your STOWA watch.

Page 7
What type are you?
Even if many people have the same desire for serenity, we are
all different and unique.

In addition, there are continually changing life situations in


which we find ourselves: at our jobs, during our free time,
during sport activities and many more.

In recent years and for every situation, we have developed


watches in the typical clean STOWA style. On the follow-
ing pages we present you these styles (STOWA Lifestyles).
Boundaries may vanish, so our recommendations could still
help you visualize possible moments to carry a watch; either
through the design of the timepiece itself or simply through
the materials of the recommended watch.

Immerse yourself in the STOWA world. We would be delighted


if your personal taste and our passionately crafted watches
coincide.

Let yourself be inspired!

Page 8
Familie. Modell. Seite 9
ADVENTURE
Familie. Modell. Seite 11
ADVENTURE
The Flieger watch manufactured in the past mainly for pilots changed in the meantime
to a modern watch for adventurers. Most of us do not fly themselves but the design de-
tails of a Flieger watch are very helpful for our great and little adventures. With a STOWA
Flieger watch you wear anytime a robust, but highly legible and extremly reliable watch.
The purity of the design and the Vintage look fit very well to a casual and functional clo-
thing. Start your next adventure!
Picture: Flieger Chrono
Adventure watch. Flieger Chronograph. Page 13
CLASSIC

Familie. Modell. Seite 15


CLASSIC
For more noble occasions the classically elegant Marine watches suit very well.
With high-quality components as for example the solid silver dials and the blued hands,
which create a special high-quality value. Despite the precious components these watches
are an ideal everyday companion. Left picture: Marine Chrono, polished case, brown croco
strap. Right picture: Marine Chrono with a matt case and black croco strap.
Classic. Marine Chronograph. Page 17
DESIGN
Familie. Modell. Seite 19
Page 20
DESIGN
Bauhaus(-design), architecture, design watches are keywords, which are mentioned in
connection with these models. Primarily these simple and reduced watches are
beautiful to look and highly legible. The reduced design was in line with the context of a
creative revolution, which had a lasting effect on the design itself (Staatliches Bauhaus,
1919), and makes it furthermore authentic and interesting. Design lovers find in the
column Antea more historical facts to the look of these STOWA classics, which we have
been building since 1937. Or just enjoy simply the perfection and pureness of the design!
Picture: Antea Klassik 390

Page 21
RELAX. ENJOY.
Familie. Modell. Seite 23
Page 24
Familie. Modell. Seite 25

RELAX and ENJOY.


The STOWA Chronographs 1938 go with several looks. Relaxed and casual in the
leisure time or more elegant for everyday business. The high-quality dials in black or cream
can be combined with many outfits. Just try it!
Picture: Chrono 1938 in black, black croco strap and Chrono 1938 in bronze, grey croco.
LEISURE
Familie. Modell. Seite 27
LEISURE and SPORT
Colourful and cool – The STOWA leisure- and sports watches . The model Prodiver as extremely
robust but still light sports watch (titan case), and matching to it the colorful Antea watches
– for men and women (in 3 various sizes). Be courageous and let yourself be inspired by the
colours. These watches complete your casual leisure outfit and will reliably serve you during all
sport activities.
Pictures: Antea 390 back to bauhaus in green and Prodiver limette, rubber strap and titan case.
Familie. Modell. Seite 29
Page 30
SPORT

Familie. Modell. Seite 31


Seite 32
Page 33
Modern and functional
With our functional watches in titanium it is - for example - possible to have a view on a se-
cond time zone. So you always know the time in your home country if you are on a business
trip or on holiday. Phone calls with the family or business meetings can thus be coordinated
perfectly. Picture: Flieger GMT with date display and the second time zone. Titanium case.
Hands in the colours orange, red, green and blue available.
FUNCTION

Page 35
Year 2018

1927-2017. 90th Anniversary.

New building. Production/ We celebrate the 90th anniversary with


Museum. 2009 some special limited Editions.

In 2009, a new building for over 20


employees is established. The STOWA
Museum is integrated.

2005
STOWA. Takeover.

In 1996, Jörg Schauer buys the STOWA Antea. Goldene Unruh 2005.
brand from the son of the company 1996
founder, Werner Storz. For the first time, a STOWA watch wins
the election for the best watches in the
world: The Goldene Unruh 2005.
The smallest alarm clock in the world is 1970
presented by STOWA in Hannover.

1942

Deck watch. Marine. Original. STOWAs Pilot watch.


1940
Launch of the Original STOWA Deck Start of production of the large STOWA
watch, handwinded movement. pilot watch in 55 mm case.

1937

Antea. Bauhaus design.


1927 Ladies watch. STOWAs first.
Around 1937, the model Antea is
created. Today it is one of STOWA´ s The first STOWA watch in 1927 is this
worldwide bestsellers. small ladies watch with gold casing and
Founding black fabric bracelet.

Page 36 Manufactury. History.


Former STOWA booth visited by Germany´s Federal Chancellor Ludwig Erhard. Jörg Schauer, new owner since 1996.

Founding & Beginnings.


In 1927, STOWA is founded in Hornberg, Black Forest by Walter Storz. The com-
pany transfers to Pforzheim in 1935. After that, STOWA moves to its own newly
constructed building in 1938. That year, STOWA also presents some Bauhaus
watches, nowadays known as the Antea series. The Marine Beobachtungsuhr
(observation watch) as well as the large Flieger (pilot watch) with a diameter of
55 mm are produced in 1939 for the first time. Both watch models could be pur-
chased in different versions at the STOWA online store. On 23rd February 1945,
the company building at Bismarckstraße is destroyed during the bombing of
Pforzheim. That same year, STOWA watch production is relocated to Rheinfelden.

Wirtschaftswunder & Postmodernism.


In 1951, a new STOWA factory is built in Rheinfelden, it is expanded both in 1954
and in 1966. At the same time, the building in Pforzheim is reconstructed. Werner
Storz, son of the company’s founder, joins STOWA in 1960. In 1963, the name of
the product STOWA Seatime is copyright reserved. STOWAs smallest alarm watch
of the world is presented in 1970 at the Hannovermesse.

Jörg Schauer’s Company Take-Over.


In 1996, Jörg Schauer acquires STOWA from Werner Storz. STOWA’s company
building is newly constructed in 2009 and the STOWA museum is established. In
2005 (Antea) and 2012 (Flieger Chrono), STOWA wins the Goldene Unruh, an au-
dience prize presented by UHREN-MAGAZIN and Focus Online. In the year 2017
STOWA celebrates his 90th anniversary.

Manufactury. History. Page 37


Page 38
Geschichte

Former STOWA factory and Employees in the 1950th.

Page 39
Bilder vom Gebäude Hr. Friese

Page 40
Building. STOWA production und museum. Page 41
Page 42 STOWA. In 2017 STOWA has celebrate its 90th Anniversary
Philosophy & Sustainability. beautiful. good. true.
To find a perfect example for a traditional company with a long and uninterrupt-
ed history is not so easy. STOWA’s history belongs to men who had the same
dream: to take care of the past, the present AND the future. These visionaries
(there are three: Mr. Walter Storz as the founder, Mr. Werner Storz, his son, and
since 1996 Joerg Schauer, who took ownership of the brand from Werner Storz)
had, and still have their own character and ideas. However, all of them have the
same inspiration and goal - to make affordable, good, and authentic watches,
and sell them to watch aficionados around the globe. All the watches must be
based on a good design, real craftsmanship, and the best materials. This has
been a reality now for nearly 90 years. In 2017, STOWA celebrates the company’s
90th anniversary. There are only a handful of other German watch companies
which can claim such a long history without interruption. Present inspirations,
ideas for the new models, as well as the strategy come from Joerg Schauer and
his well-experienced team. Stowa team does his and her best in each department
to satisfy the customers around the world. In recent years, STOWA has reflected
profoundly to define its philosophy regarding the past, the present, and the
future. The result is a description of Stowa’s spirit in three simple, yet powerful
words: beautiful. good. true.

beautiful means that Stowa not only wants to design and produce attractive
watches, but also wants to support the cultural point of view as well. We like
to work in a nice environment with a beautiful architecture and ambience. We
also want to be sustainable in the way we create and build our new watches. We
appreciate all the beautiful and well-designed products around in our daily life.

good means more than just our watches ticking and lasting as long as possible.
It is much more than a marketing slogan about our good quality. It goes deeper
into the spirit of our business conduct. Since nearly 90 years, STOWA has always
had a profound impact on its suppliers. We have been a fair trading partner for all
our suppliers. STOWA consistently has a good reputation- even with some of the
biggest swiss suppliers. This has and continues to be a very important status in
the today´s watch industry.

true means that not only everything we say is true, but also our goal is to work on
every watch by hand. Our watch makers are performing several complex tasks on
every single watch. We do not produce in-house movements, a decision we are
willing to live by, since we provide best value for the money. What we do is much
more than just assembling watches. STOWA’s craftsmen, like our watch makers
and goldsmiths, take pride in their personal handwork, so you as our customer,
receive a perfect watch which could be serviced quickly and affordably - for at
least another 90 years!

STOWA. Philosophy. Page 43


Historische STOWA Fliegeruhr Baumuster B, ca. 1942.

Sapphire crystals & Casing.

Casing.
Every single watch is produced in our manufactury by one of the inhouse watchmakers who
are working in our atelier. For every watch plenty of steps have to be done, such as the casing,
which implies inserting the movement with the dial, the hands and the crown into the case.
Sapphire crystals have to be pressed into the bezels or complete cases. Due to the different
designs and requirements, as for example waterproofness, Joerg Schauer chooses between
several different constructions to create the most suitable case.

Page 44 Manufacture. Casing and crystals.


Handmade & Manufacture.
STOWA watches are handmade. Since 1927.

STOWAs craftsmen need really good eyes for the daily work they are doing.
The goldsmith and watchmakers are traditional professions having a very long
history in the area around Pforzheim and the Black Forest. Here we have a special
school where it is possible to learn all the skills you need to build watches or to
produce jewelry. This is the basis of our manufacture. On these pages we want to
introduce you to some of the specific procedures. We hope that you enjoy these
pictures and descriptions. All methods and employees you are watching are real
STOWA staff and professionals. beautiful. good. true.

Above you can see our Testaf bezels which are filled with a triangle made out
of superluminova. This material is the best for lightning at nighttime. Before we
can put in the triangle, we have to engrave the bezel with its typical scale. This
is done by a modern lasermachine - we call it laserengraving. The lasermachine
allows us to make a lot of customization. Today STOWA can individualize your
watch, the dial, a case or other parts with your personal ideas. This service is
unique in the market due to its deep variations.

If you have a special wish and if you are looking for an unique and timeless
watch, maybe as a gift or for an anniversary, please contact us. We will develop
your special watch. With your idea and our experience we can create something
which is able to keep your special event in mind - forever!

Manufacture. Handmade. Page 45


Historische STOWA Fliegeruhr Baumuster B, ca. 1942.

Rotor & Mechanic movement.

Movement. A lot of very small parts.


Most of the people cannot imagine the size and quantity of the very small parts used in a
mechanical movement. While there are around 40 parts in a manual wind movement there
could be also 200 parts in an automatic chronograph movement. STOWA´s watchmakers can
handle both and will take care of your watch and movement. Above you can see how we
mount the ball-bearing into the handmade and laserengraved Rotor.

Page 46 Manufacture. Rotor and movement.


Dial printing.
We do have good suppliers for our dials. But sometimes it is necessary to print
the logo on a non-logo dial. Or to print the serial number or the personal initials
of a customer. All of that is done as an additional service for our customers. Since
we often need drawing and a printing cliche which is only used once (typically
you can print hundreds), it is not cheap. Though, having this possibility we can
do unique pieces and we have customers all over the world who like to custom-
ize their dials as well. Above you can see the last step after printing. The tam-
ponstamp has to be carefully removed off the surface of the dial. The previous
working steps you can watch and read here:

Color on cliche. Take color. Printing.


At first we put color on the After cleaning, a silicon tam- The last step is to print the
cliche. Then we clean the ponstamp takes the color. dial with the color/typogra-
cliche with a scraper. This is a very delicate work. phy of the cliche.

Manufacture. Handmade. Page 47


German Award. Goldene Unruh.
Also called: Best watches in the world. One of the biggest watch contests in the world.

Page 48
International and national. Watch Awards.
STOWA watches won a few awards for which either the customers or special interest journalists
were allowed to vote for. However, they have the same meaning for us since we think both, the
customers and the journalists value our good price relation, our design and the philosophy. The
journalists show their respect to our innovation and inspiration in a huge market with a lot of
different brands.

Page 49
Visitors choice. Munichtime Watch Award.
Every year the biggest watchbrands meet in Munich for a very nice watch fair.
The visitors - watchcollectors from all around Germany vote their favorite watches.

Page 50
Japan. Watch Grand Prix.
Japans watch-magazines are famous. They have very enthusiastic collectors and journalists.
STOWA is a very popular brand in Japan and from time to time we get an award.

Page 51
Page 52
Flieger. Classic.
STOWA builds Flieger watches since 1940.
The remakes enjoy great popularity.

Page 53
Page 54 Flieger Classic. Today´s remake of the historical pilot watch.
Flieger Klassik 40

Historical STOWA pilot watch with Baumuster A dial, approx. 1940.

History & Inspiration.


From indispensable instrument to fashionable everyday watch.

One of the most successful watch types of all times, unquestionably, is the pilot
watch. Its popularity is due to its distinctive design, which is linked to its eventful
history: when men started to populate the sky, timekeepers became indispens-
able instruments. As a result, a distinctive type evolved - the pilot watch.

At the beginning of the 20th century, mad men in flying crates caused excite-
ment. Mobility became more and more important. Horse carriages were replaced
by fueled vehicles, railroads connected numerous urban centers and in the air,
pilots were flying with nerves of steel - at that time, aviation was dangerous.

Admittedly, the days of aircraft captains needing special watches to assist them
are over. Modern measuring tools and, if nothing else, global positioning system
GPS are today´s equipment. However, what lasts is the typical look of the pilot
watch: with its classic design, the watch is rated among the treasured favorites of
some watch collection.

Being one of the largest manufacturers for pilot watches, STOWA produces its
characteristic watches in various designs again since 1997. Featuring manual
wind, automatic movement or as a chronograph. Every watch fan may find the
right one for himself within this premium collection.

Flieger Classic. History. Page 55


Original Watches. Baumuster A and Baumuster B.

1997. Flieger Automatic. 2010. Flieger Baumuster B.


Right after Jörg Schauers takeover of the Besides the first version with numerals on
brand, STOWA presented its best known the rim, also known as Baumuster A, there is
classic: the Flieger watch with its 40 mm a version of the Flieger watch with numer-
stainless steel watch case and mechanical als on the inside, which was built since
movement. Almost unchanged in produc- approximately 1942: the so called Baumus-
tion to the present day. STOWA´s bestseller: ter B version. Finally, STOWA reissued this
the version without logo on its dial. historical classic watch with a 40 mm watch

Page 56 Flieger Classic. Development.


Historical STOWA pilot watch Baumuster B, approx. 1942.

The Baumuster B.
The original design of the original Flieger watch by STOWA (1940) was marked by
the usual arrangement of the hour numbers on the dial. They called this version
Baumuster A (see figure on the left). Around 1942, the Baumuster B was devel-
oped. This dial is characterized by the large external (numerical) minute-track
and the smaller inner hour circle. The large 55 mm watch in the Baumuster B
version of STOWA is one of the rarest large Flieger watches ever. There were
probably only 42 pieces built. Both original STOWA Flieger watches can be seen
in the museum in Engelsbrand.

Details of typical Flieger watches.

Luminous numbers. Blued hands. Triangle.


Optimal readability at night: Installed even today: Ther- Helps orientation at night:
luminous numbers on the mally blued steel hands with luminous triangle with two

Flieger Classic. Details. Page 57


The Collection.Various dials. Different sizes.
STOWA offers a bright range of different Pilot watches (Flieger watches). Normally, the design
is related to the STOWA originals, but sometimes we transfer them lightly to a more modern
look. We think this collection has many but not too much versions. Every single version has its
own place and standing. We have realized most of them after customers request!

Page 58 Flieger Classic 40. Flieger Baumuster B.


Flieger Classic 36. 36 mm case. Page 64-69. Flieger Classic 40. 40 mm case. Page 70-73.

Flieger Classic Unitas 6498. 41 mm case. Page 74-77. Flieger Classic Chrono. 41 mm case. Page 78-81.

Flieger Classic Sport. 43 mm case. Page 86-89. Flieger Testaf TO1. 46 mm case. Page 94-97.

Flieger Classic. Case sizes in relation. Page 59


NEW. 2018.

Page 60 VERUS. The new STOWA pilot watch in a pure and modern design.
Flieger VERUS. The new one.
A new pilot watch. Modern, pure and extremely functional. With the DNA of
the legendary STOWA pilot watches which we build since around 1940 without
interruption! Best luminosity of numbers and hands, an optional date display
and a Swiss automatic movement are the guarantee for an uncomplicated, even
at night easily readable Flieger watch.

Numbers. Hands. Afterglowing. Date. Functional.

Luminous numbers and hands. Best (blue!) For best functionality you can also choose
afterglow in the night is guaranteed! the date on 6 o´clock position.

VERUS. Features. Page 61


NEW. 2018.

Page 62 Flieger Classic 40 White. A new dial version in our 40 mm case.


Flieger Classic 40 White. With black or blue hands.
The new Flieger classic 40 white still uses the authentic pilot watch design from
our original watch which was produced around the year 1940. The size of this
watch is 40 mm. You can also choose real temperature blued steel hands, auto-
matic ETA 2824-2 in basic or top finish and a handwinding version with the well
known ETA 2804-2 movement.

Afterglowing. Blued steel hands. Date. Functional.

Luminous numbers and Best temperature blued For best functionality we


hands. Best afterglow in the hands are also available. You have add the date function
night is guaranteed! can choose instead of black. for best daily use.

Flieger Classic 40 White. Features. Page 63


Page 64
Flieger. Classic 36.
The 36 mm size is a so called unisex size.
It is perfect for an unspectacular every day use,
comfortable to wear and the big dial makes it easy
to read, of course also at night! On the following pages we
present the story and the versions of this model.

Page 65
Current collection. The Flieger Classic 40 mm and the new Flieger Classic 36 mm, both without Logo.

1997. Limited 36 mm watch in platinum.


We already produced the small 36 mm Fliegerwatch many years ago - in 1997.
Those first watches have been made of platinum and with a quantity of only 10
watches. They are all sold out, of course, we kept one piece for our STOWA Muse-
um. 2017 we relaunch the watch in stainless steel and with different dial versions.

Flieger Platinum. Rare. Limited. Unitas 187.


Only 10 pieces have been built. New old stock movement.

For our 70th anniversary. EUR 6.500,- (sold out) Unitas 187 with central second.

Page 66 Flieger Classic 36. Platinum. Limited.


The original 55 mm watch from 1940 and the new one in 36 mm. We know where we are coming from.

2018. Flieger Classic 36. Medium size.


To enlarge our Fliegerwatch collection to a smaller casesize, we developed the
Flieger in a 36 mm case. Now we can offer: 36, 40, 41 and 43 mm cases for the
classic Fliegerwatches. Our contemporary collection with the more modern watch-
es (Flieger GMT, Testaf TO 1 or Flieger DIN Professional) are 45/46 and 47 mm.

Flieger Classic 36. Flieger Classic 36.


Without Logo. With Logo.
Automatic. 36 mm case. From EUR 990,- ETA 2824-2, with a handmade rotor.

Flieger Classic 36. Dial versions. Page 67


Page 68 Flieger Classic 36. With Logo. Brown strap in old style.
Flieger Classic 36. Flieger Classic 36.
Without logo, with date. With logo and date.
Automatic. 36 mm case. From EUR 990,- Automatic. 36 mm case. From EUR 990,-

Handwinding movement. Automatic movement.


Best finish. Blued screws. With handmade rotor.
ETA 2804-2, makes the watch 1 mm thinner! ETA 2824-2, best swiss movement quality!

Flieger Classic 36. Current collection and movements. Page 69


Page 70
Flieger. Classic 40.
The 40 mm size is our most popular size.
Its design and proportions and also the perfect use at
night makes this watch so popular. The lume of all our pilot
watch dials and hands is legendary. The old style leather-
strap makes the design very authentic. We have a Baumus-
ter A dial which was launched in 1940 and a Baumuster B
dial, launched around 1942.

Page 71
Flieger Classic 40. Flieger Classic 40.
With logo. With logo and date.
The functional. From EUR 990,- The functional. From EUR 990,-

Handwinding movement. Automatic movement.


Best finish. Blued screws. With handmade rotor.
ETA 2804-2, makes the watch 1 mm thinner! ETA 2824-2, best swiss movement quality!

Page 72 Flieger Classic 40. Versions.


Flieger Classic 40. Flieger Classic 40.
Without logo. Without logo, with date.
Automatic. 40 mm case. From EUR 990,- Automatic. 40 mm case. From EUR 990,-

Flieger Classic 40. Flieger Classic 40. NEW!


Baumuster B. Baumuster B with date.
Automatic. 40 mm case. From EUR 990,- Automatic. 40 mm case. From EUR 990,-

Flieger Classic 40. Versions. Page 73


Page 74
Flieger. Classic Unitas 6498.
This model has a 41 mm case and it is only available with
the legendary handwinding movement Unitas 6498 which
was used in pocketwatches in earlier times. It is really im-
pressive to watch the pretty finished movement behind
the sapphire crystal caseback. We build this model with or
without small second.

Page 75
Page 76 Flieger Unitas 6498 with small second. 41 mm case.
Flieger Classic Unitas 6498. Flieger Classic Unitas 6498.
With subsidiary second. Without subsidiary second.
Manual wind Unitas 6498. From EUR 1.380,- Manual wind Unitas 6498. From EUR 1.380,-

Flieger Classic Unitas 6498. Flieger Classic Unitas 6498.


Movement. Handfinished wheels.
With Geneva stripes and blue screws. We deliver on request.

Flieger. Unitas 6498 with or without subsidiary second. Page 77


Page 78
Flieger. Chronograph.
The 41 mm STOWA chronograph was awarded in 2012.
The unique design by Jörg Schauer keeps the original pilot
watch design as good as possible. The goal for Schauer was
to hide the small second which allows to keep more num-
bers on the dial. This design feature makes our chrono-
graph so special in the complete market of chronographs.

Page 79
Page 80
Awarded. STOWA’s Flieger Chronograph.

Flieger Chrono.
Reduction. STOWA´s Flieger Chrono
deliberately goes without permanent
subsidiary second enabling to main-
tain the original pilot watch design.
No doubt, this design innovation helped
winning the Goldene Unruh 2012. Also
available with manual wind movement.
From EUR 1,890.-

Flieger Chronograph. Award. Page 81


Page 82
Flieger. Classic 40 Ikarus.
The 40 mm Ikarus is the more elegant pilot watch. The dial
is based on the same design as the original flieger watches.
The grey color makes it a bit more dressy for different cloth
styles. The Flieger Classic White design (our new model in
2018, Page 62) is also based on this legendary and timeless
typography. We have this grey dial available in our 40 mm
and 43 mm case. If you like the blued steel hands more
than the black ones, we change them on your request.
Handwinding or automatic movements are available.

Page 83
Page 84 Flieger Classic 40 Ikarus. 40 mm case
Flieger Classic 40 Ikarus. Flieger Classic Sport Ikarus.
Grey dial in Flieger style. Bigger case. 200 meter waterproof !

40 mm case. From EUR 680,- 43 mm case. From EUR 1.250,-

Flieger Classic 40 Ikarus. Flieger Classic Sport Ikarus.


Handwinding movement. Automatic movement.
ETA 2804-2 in Top finish with blued screws. ETA 2824-2 in Top finish. Handmade rotor.

Flieger Classic 40 Ikarus. Sizes and movements. Page 85


Page 86
Flieger. Classic Sport.
The most robust Flieger watch that STOWA has ever built.
43 mm case. 200 meter waterproof. We offer this model
with screw down or classic onion crown.

Flieger. Classic Sport. With logo. Page 87


1997. 40 mm case. 2015. 43 mm case.
Right after Jörg Schauers takeover of the The classic STOWA Flieger watch becomes
brand, STOWA presented its best known more modern and sporty. The 43 mm case
classic: the Flieger watch with its 40 mm and the extra thick sapphire glasses of the
stainless steel watch case and mechanical model Flieger Classic Sport enable 200-me-
movement. Almost unchanged in produc- ter watertightness and increased shock re-
tion to the present day. STOWA´s bestseller: sistance. The luminous intensity of the hands
the version without logo on its dial. and the dial is particularly strong, as with all
STOWA watches.

Page 88 Flieger Classic Sport. Development.


Flieger Classic Sport. Flieger Classic Sport.
With logo and date. Baumuster B.
Automatic. 43 mm case. From EUR 1.250,- Automatic. 43 mm Case. From EUR 1.250,-

Flieger Classic Sport. Automatic Movement.


Without logo, with date. ETA 2824-2, handmade rotor.
Automatic. 43 mm case. From EUR 1.250,- We also offer ETA 2804-2 handwinding!

Flieger Classic Sport. Dial versions. Page 89


Dimensions
Flieger Classic 36 36 mm case, 18 mm strap, height: 10.20 mm
Flieger Classic 40 40 mm case, 20 mm strap, height: 10.20 mm
Flieger Unitas 6498 41 mm case, 22 mm strap, height: 12.00 mm
Flieger Chrono 41 mm case, 22 mm strap, height: 13.70 mm - 14.70 mm
Flieger Classic Sport 43 mm case, 24 mm strap, height: 12.80 mm
NEW Flieger Verus 40 mm case, 20 mm strap, height: 10.50 mm

Movement
Flieger Classic 36+40 Automatic ETA 2824-2 or manual wind ETA 2804-2
Flieger Unitas 6498 Manual wind Unitas 6498
Flieger Chrono Automatic or manual wind Valjoux 7753
Flieger Classic Sport Automatic ETA 2824-2
NEW Flieger Verus Automatic ETA 2824-2 or manual wind ETA 2804-2

Materiality
Case Flieger Classic: Stainless steel, fine matt, ground by hand

Flieger Verus: fine matt glass bead blasted


Dial black matt lacquered
Digits Flieger Classic: Superluminova C3, Verus: Superluminova BGW 9

with or without STOWA logo, with or without date


Glasses Sapphire crystal on top and on the bottom

Hands Flieger Classic: Temperature-blued steel,

filled with Superluminova C3


Flieger Verus: coated with Superluminova BGW 9
Strap Leather strap or metal bracelet Milanaise

Crown Stainless steel onion crown

Individualising
individual rotor- and case engraving
Flieger Classic 36+40

individual wheel- and case engraving


Flieger Unitas 6498

Flieger Chrono individual rotor- and case engraving,


individual engraved chronograph bridge
Flieger Classic Sport individual rotor- and case engraving

NEW Flieger Verus individual rotor- and case engraving

Page 90 Flieger Classic and Flieger Verus. Technique.


Flieger Classic. Luminous hands and dial. Page 91
Page 92
Flieger. Contemporary.
The contemporary Flieger watches from STOWA.
Modernized in design and technically optimized.

Page 93
Page 94
History & Inspiration.
Security reserves through optimized technology and certification.

As one of the renowned manufacturers of Flieger watches, STOWA has a special


responsibility for this timeless watch line. Not only the relaunch of old historical
models is important to us. We are also striving for a modernization of the classic
design. Thus, we have developed a new and very stable casing. We call the
watches that arise from this: Our best (Flieger) watches that we’ve ever built. The
dial design of the models TO1, TO2 and GMT is very reduced. The function and
perfect readability at all times - one of the DNAs of STOWA - are always para-
mount.

In 2013, we bravely had a watch undergo the new and elaborate TESTAF tests.
Read more about this on the following pages. We have not only mastered the
test at once without complaint. Meanwhile, we also welcome the fact that we are
able to offer more models with the extremely robust case technology. The Flieger
Klassik Sport, for example, is built with the same technique and brings its wearers
much joy during daily wearing because of this extraordinary robustness - one
more STOWA DNA important for us: The absolute practicality.

The simple TO2 design chooses consciously not to have a rotating bezel. The
plain time display and the reduced case design shows how the modernization of
the classic Flieger watch can look. The GMT version, that complements the model
family as third watch, then ultimately combines a simple and extremely useful
function - displaying a second time zone - with our simple dial and casing design.

Flieger Contemporary. Inspiration. Page 95


TESTAF. Elaborate tests. Impact. Vibration. Fluids.
Complying with the Technical Standards for Pilot watches (TESTAF) gives the user the security
that such a pilot watch complies with the relevant functional, technical, physical and normative
requirements for timing devices in various aircraft classes; allows the pilot to plan and carry out
the time-dependent maneuvers necessary for the operation of the flight, and this way to re-
place equipment for time measurement that is required and existing in aircrafts in its entirety;
that its functionality is not influenced by the physical stresses of regular flight operations and
by unexpected disturbances, and that it is easy and safe to use and read in all conditions; that it
is not a risk potential for crew members, other instruments or the aircraft.

Requirements of the TESTAF.


1. Functionality:
Required functions for visual or instrument flight. Readability by day and night. Ensuring opera-
bility. Accuracy and power reserve.

2. Resistance to external loads:


Absolute and cyclically changing ambient pressure, operating temperature range and rapid
temperature changes, shock and impact resistance, G-loads and vibrations, watertightness,
resistance to typical liquid of flight operations and effects of magnetic fields on the watch.

3. Security and compatibility:


Impact of the magnetic signature of the watch on the emergency compass, avoiding reflec-
tions (glare effect), special shape and secure bracelet fastening.

Page 96 TESTAF. Test requirements.


The original, approx. 1940

Preserving Tradition - Yet Thinking Ahead.

2013. Flieger TESTAF TO1. 2015. Flieger TO2.


TESTAF (Technical Standard for pilot watch- The classic STOWA Flieger watch becomes
es), the standard for pilot watches since more modern and sporty. The 43 mm case
2012. Developed by the FH Aachen. For the and the extra thick sapphire glasses of the
first time, a clear technical and functional model Flieger TO2 enable a 200-meter wa-
requirement catalog is presented, which tertightness and increased shock resistance.
determines what requirements bracelet pilot The luminous intensity of the hands and the
watches must meet today. From EUR 1.470,- dial is particularly strong. From EUR 1.290,-

Flieger Contemporary. TESTAF TO1 and TO2. Page 97


Luminous hands and luminous markings. Best readability.

Dial by day. During twillight.


The graphic of the TO dials was very compli- During twilight or later in complete dark-
cated. The requirements of the Testaf criteria ness, the TESTAF shows one of its strengths.
are demanding: clear and easy to read dial The large hands and markings are very
design by day, but especially at night. To luminously intensive. Pure functionality! The
make the reading of the time even more models of the TO series light up in blue at
clear, the logo is printed in dark gray. night!, although the markings and hands are
white in daylight.

Page 98 Flieger Contemporary. Luminous intensity.


Flieger GMT. Useful function. A second time zone.

2014. Flieger GMT. GMT movement.


The complication of the second time zone, The automatic movement of our Flieger
widely referred to as GMT (Greenwitch GMT is based on the proven Valjoux 7750
Mean Time), is very useful for travelers. chronograph movement. The motherboard
Using the central hand, the time difference of the original caliber was enlarged to make
can be set to local time. After that, the the movement more optimal, especially for
time at home can be read on the bezel. large, sporty watches. A robust movement in
From EUR 1.750,- a beautiful appearance.

Flieger Contemporary. GMT. Page 99


Dimensions
Flieger TO1 Testaf 45/46 mm case, 24 mm strap, height: 12.90 mm
Flieger TO2 43 mm case, 24 mm strap, height: 12.30 mm
Flieger GMT 45/46 mm case, 24 mm strap, height: 12.90 mm

Movement
Flieger TO1 Testaf Automatic ETA 2824-2
Flieger TO2 Automatic ETA 2824-2
Flieger GMT Automatic ETA 07.171

Materiality
Case Titanium, sand blasted or stainless steel, fine matt, grinded by
hand
Dial black matt lacquered, Superluminova BGW9,

Versions: red and green (GMT printed, second and GMT hand
coloured red or green lacquered
Glasses Sapphire crystal on top and on the bottom

Hands coated with Superluminova BGW9

Strap Leather strap or rubber strap

Crown Titanium or stainless steel crown with STOWA logo

Individualising
Flieger TO1 Testaf individual rotor- and case engraving
Flieger TO2 individual rotor- and case engraving
Flieger GMT individual rotor- and case engraving

Page 100 Flieger Contemporary. Technique.


Antea

Page 101
Page 102
Flieger. Professional.
Retro-Futuristic Design by Hartmut Esslinger.
Hartmut Esslinger is the founder of frog design and inventor of the Apple design language.
He worked very successfully for Wega, Sony, Apple, Lufthansa, SAP, Louis Vuitton and many
others. He designed a pioneering innovative pilot watch for STOWA.

Flieger. Professional. Page 103


Page 104
Story & Inspiration.

THE FUTURE NEEDS THE PAST:


STOWA’S RETRO-FUTURISTIC FLIEGER WATCH.

“Besides modern products in new but often unexciting shapes, for example
smart phones, there are objects with a history in a traditional way, like ocean
liners, cars and of course pilot watches, which speak to us emotionally by their
visual familiarity. Apart from that, innovation and customer’s demands require
modernization and with that new ways of designing. The trick is to balance the
familiar with the new.

When I started working for Disney 20 years ago, designing innovative cruise ships
for families, we discovered that kids loved the futuristic Star Trek liner where-
as their parents liked the classical ocean liners Normandie and France better. I
combined both, classical lines and wide bows with a descending stern as well as
a navigating bridge in the style of a spaceship – and called the resulting design
retro-futuristic, an established term nowadays.

Regarding STOWA’s new Flieger watch, an uncompromising-professional time


measuring instrument, together with Jörg Schauer I combined a classical watch
case with a bionic shaped bezel: two spatial sine curves, combined at an angle
of 90 degrees, create perfectly ergonomic shaped transitions which meet the
high DIN standards concerning safe handling with gloves while capturing the
avant-garde style of a Boeing Dreamliner.

Yet, such a complex design would not be possible without computer-based


production. Moreover, the watch features an innovative dial: we replaced the
classical triangle on 12 o’clock with an open A, making the minute hand close
the triangle visually in its center precisely when it hits the 60 minutes mark.
In the sense of Odo Marquart’s future always needs a past (Zukunft braucht Her-
kunft) STOWAs new Flieger watch is a logical step forward.”

Hartmut Esslinger, March 2016

Flieger. Professional. Page 105


Page 106
Idea & Implementation.
Inspired by nature and realized with most modern technology.

When Mr. Esslinger and myself discussed in autumn 2014 about a new Flieger
watch for STOWA it was clear that this should be something completely new.
Mr. Esslinger asked me whether I could imagine a bionic design. A design derived
from nature and its structures. I was at once tempted by this idea to realize some-
thing completely new in watch design, though the design freedom was limited
by future DIN norms. However, the result of this design process now is a bionic
bezel, an innovative dial and a special crown.

Flieger. Professional. Page 107


Bionic bezel. Innovative dial.
A classical watch case is combined with a The classical triangle on 12 o’clock watch
bionic shaped bezel: two spatial sine curves, changed to an open A, making the minute
combined at an angle of 90 degrees, create hand close the triangle visually in its center
perfectly ergonomic shape. precisely when it hits the 60 minutes mark.

Page 108
Solid 925/000 silver prototype bezel. Page 109
TESTAF & DIN.
TESTAF becomes DIN:
The new standard for pilot watches DIN 8330.

The German DIN standards in the watch sector enjoy the highest reputation in
Germany and internationally. For the first time in decades, a completely new
German watch standard DIN 8330: time measurement - pilot watches (part 1: re-
quirements and testing and part 2: evaluation of conformity), is issued. It defines
the functional requirements for safe and reliable pilot watches and proves the
innovative capacity of the German technology-based watch industry.

At the initiative of Sinn Spezialuhren GmbH, DIN decided to provide a standard


for pilot watches in the summer of 2013, for the first time. For this project, a work-
ing group named pilot watches was founded, in which the following well-known
companies and institutions participated: FH Aachen as engineering sciences
test institute, DNV GL (formerly Det Norske Veritas and Germanischer Lloyd) as
certification institution, Lufthansa Cargo and Airbus Helicopters as user and, as
manufacturer, Sinn Spezialuhren, Stowa and Glashütte Original. In October 2015,
the competent working committee for watches released both parts of the stan-
dard for publishing. Publishing is planned for spring 2016.

The basis for the new standard for pilot watches is the Technical Standard for Pilot
Watches (www.testaf.org), developed jointly by the Department of aerospace
engineering at FH Aachen and Sinn Spezialuhren GmbH, and publicly presented
in 2012. The TESTAF presented the first detailed and engineering science based
requirements and test catalog for pilot watches in the institutional, professional
and civilian air traffic.

TESTAF, and now the DIN 8330, transfer the uncompromisingly high demands
that are placed on the equipment of planes and helicopters to wrist watches. It
ensures that a pilot wirstwatch can replace the time measurement equipment
existing in the aircraft completely for the pilot, that it is not affected by the phys-
ical stresses of air traffic, that it represents no hazard potential and that it is com-
patible with other onboard instruments of the air craft. This way, the concept of
the pilot watch is supposed to be brought back to its origin as a watch equipped
with special functional and technical features.

The main differences between the requirements of DIN 8330-1 and TESTAF can
be summarized as follows:

Page 110
1) The DIN 8330-1 expands the circle of certifiable types of watches,
for example by considering quartz watches or more practical re-
quirements for the permitted magnetic signature of a pilot watch.
2) In numerous concrete requirements the DIN 8330-1 surpasses the TESTAF.
This particularly concerns the tightened test criteria for readability, vibrati-
on loads and resistance to air craft typical liquids. In addition, requirements
for compatibility with night vision equipment are defined for the first time.
(3) The DIN 8330-1 specifies, systematizes and updates the regulations applied
and developed for the TESTAF tests.

The new standard DIN 8330 Time Measurement - Pilot watches emphasizes the
international leading position of the German watch industry and their claim to
further promote the development of technologically sophisticated watches. Only
a neutral institution approved by the German Accreditation Body (DAkkS) can
certify that watches meet all the requirements of DIN 8330-1. These watches may
then be provided with the known DIN mark.

The core team of the work group Pilot watches


Specialists of any kind: test engineer, authorized officer, development manager,
flight officer, project manager, manager WG DIN 8330, chief test pilot, aerospace
engineering

Flieger. Professional. Page 111


Dimensions
Flieger Professional 47 mm case, 24 mm strap, height: 13.90 mm

Movement
Flieger Professional Automatic ETA 2824-2, TOP version, TOP finish

Materiality
Case Titanium, sand blasted
Dial black matt lacquered, coated with Superluminova BWG9
Glasses Sapphire crystal on top and on the bottom
Hands coated with Superluminova BGW9
Strap Leather strap or rubber strap
Crown Titanium crown

Individualising
Flieger Professional individual rotor and case engraving

Page 112 Flieger Professional. Technique.


Page 113
Page 114
Antea. Classic.
The STOWA design line. Since 1937.
Inspired by historical watches in the Bauhaus style.

Page 115
Page 116
Historical STOWA watches, produced around 1937.

History & Inspiration.


Since 1937, STOWA produces watches in the style of Bauhaus. The small number of watches
existing from that period prove that not many companies realized this, by the standards of
the time, new design. However, this plain and timeless design is well established today. Since
2000, STOWA produces its classic watch again with a modernized shape, in different sizes and
versions. More interesting watches from that period can be seen at STOWA museum in Engels-
brand. May it be a small, solid gold watch for women with Roman numbers or a rectangular
gold watch with Arabic ones. Collectors’ hearts leap for joy regarding the two watches depicted
above. The rectangular watch is made of a so called desk case (Pultgehäuse), which means the
watch case is thicker at 12 o’clock than at 6 o’clock – to better meet the eye of the beholder.
The round shaped watch features a rare color combination: a Roman dial made of copper in a
chromed watch case.

Antea Classic. Inspiration. Page 117


Original STOWA watch. The prototype of today´s Antea Serie, around 1937.

The Bauhaus & The Hochschule für Gestaltung. (1919-1933)

1937. Lange. 1937. STOWA.


The Lange watch from 1937 may have STOWA also bought dials at Weber & Baral.
been on of the first watches influenced Many different models - partly in real gold -
by the plain design vocabulary of the round or square, were built with it (see page
Bauhaus. Its dial was made in Pforzheim. 55). From the mid-thirties, the models of to-
Existing documents prove that Weber day’s Antea series are created. In the STOWA
& Baral (the largest dial company back Museum, some of the classics from that era
then) also supplied Lange & Söhne. can be seen.
Lange was customer No 1, STOWA No 3.

Page 118 Antea Classic. History.


Preserving Tradition - Yet Thinking Ahead.

2004. Reissue. 2015. Modernized.


In 2004, Jörg Schauer reissued STOWA’s Antea back to bauhaus. Jörg Schauer wants
original watch from 1937. The Antea Classic to modernize the classic Antea watch. To-
is produced unchanged and in different gether with world-famous designer Hartmut
watch case sizes since then. Manual wind Esslinger, the new Antea series develops.
or automatic movement. Polished stainless Hartmut Esslinger uses a font, which has its
steel watch case, silver-plated dial and blued origins at the era of Bauhaus. As a result, the
steel-watch-hands. watch appears more fresh and modern.

Antea Classic. History. Page 119


Antea Classic 365

Page 120 Antea Classic 365. Automatic movement, handmade rotor.


Antea Classic KS 41

Antea Classic KS 41. Handwinding Unitas 6498 movement. Page 121


Page 122 Antea Classic 390. Black leatherstrap with deployment buckle.
STOWA watchmaker sets the hands of a Antea watch..

A Classic Remake & Awards.

Antea creme.
2005, Antea Creme (preceding model
of nowadays Antea classic 390) wins the
Goldene Unruh, presented by German watch
magazine UHREN-MAGAZIN. Since then,
this model is produced almost unchanged.
Its value was increased steadily by adding
1st place Goldene Unruh 2005. blued steel-watch-hands, a silver dial and a
TOP movement.

Antea Classic. Award. Page 123


Page 124 Antea Classic KS black. With black handstitched leatherstrap.
Antea Classic KS. Silver. Antea Classic KS. Black.
Small second. Silver dial. Small second. Black dial.
Handwinding. 35.50 mm case. Euro 1020,- Handwinding. 35.50 mm case. Euro 950,-

Antea Classic KS. Roman Rosé. Handwinding movement.


Small second. Rosé gold dial. The Antea KS watch includes the established
Peseux 7001 handwinding movement by
Handwinding. 35.50 mm case. Euro 1020,- ETA. Best swiss made quality.

Antea Classic KS. Dial version. Page 125


Antea Classic 365. Antea Classic 390.
With date. With date.
Automatic. 36.50 mm case. Euro 1.020,- Automatic. 39 mm case. Euro 1.020,-

Antea 365 Movement. Antea 390 Movement.


The Antea Classic 365 also contains the swiss The ETA 2824-2 movement with our hand-
made ETA 2824-2 movement. made rotor. Special engraving is possible!

Page 126 Antea Classic. Models and movement.


Antea Classic KS 41. Silver. Antea Classic KS 41. Black.
Small second. Small second.
Manual wind. 41 mm Case. Euro 1.380,- Manual wind. 41 mm case. Euro 1.310,-

Antea KS 41 Movement. Special finished wheels.


Former pocket watch movement Unitas You can choose handfinished wheels for the
6498 with screw balance and Geneva stripes. Unitas 6498 on request.

Antea Classic KS 41. Models and movement. Page 127


NEW. Antea 1919.

Antea 1919. Black and white.


A simple dial design. Lines in the center. Without decoration. In black or white. This watch
marks the start of the 100 years anniversary of the Staatliche Bauhaus (1919-1933). Jörg
Schauer, as responsible designer, has not only tried to implement the reduction in graphics.
The reduction continues in the choice of the movement and the surface of the case. The
standard version is provided with a very good basic movement (ETA 2824-2). The case is finely
matted and thus allows a cost-effective revision after many years. The obligatory sapphire
glasses are of course also installed in this model. Ultimately, we do not save on the configura-
tion of the watch but offer the best set-up for the price. Swiss precision movement, unscratch-
able sapphire crystal, water-resistant case, easy to read. You can upgrade the watch with a top
finish automatic ETA 2824-2 or with a handwinding movement ETA 2804-2.

Page 128 Antea 1919. Story behind the design.


The Staatliche Bauhaus Idea. (1919-1933)
The Bauhaus only existed for 14 years: from 1919 to 1933. Despite this, it became the twentieth
century’s most important college of architecture, design and art. For political reasons, fresh
starts had to be made repeatedly in Weimar, Dessau and Berlin, but under its three directors
– Walter Gropius, Hannes Meyer and Ludwig Mies van der Rohe – the college continued to
develop further. The intention to rethink design from the bottom up and not to accept any
traditional certainties not only opened the way to a fresh start in modern art, but also enabled
the influence of the Bauhaus experiment to continue right down to the present day.

Architecture during Bauhaus. Weißenhofsiedlung. 1927.


Exactly in the year 1927, when STOWA was founded in the Black Forest, only 125 km away,
one of the most important and still existing architecture was built: The Weißenhofsiedlung
in Stuttgart. Weißenhofsiedlung represented a new type of building exhibition. For the first
time fully functional experimental buildings were erected that would later on serve as regular
lease apartments. At the time of the exhibition they were furnished in accordance with ideas
of Neues Bauen (Functionalism). Architect of the above shown building: J.J.P.Oud.

Bauhaus. The idea. Weißenhofsiedlung. Page 129


Dimensions
Antea Classic KS 35.50 mm case, 18 mm strap, height: 6.90 mm
Antea Classic 365 36.50 mm case, 18 mm strap, height: 9.20 mm
Antea Classic 390 39.00 mm case, 20 mm strap, height: 9.20 mm
Antea Classic KS 41 41.00 mm case, 22 mm strap, height: 9.70 mm

Movement
Antea Classic KS Manual wind Peseux 7001
Antea Classic 365 Automatic ETA 2824-2
Antea Classic 390 Automatic ETA 2824-2
Antea Classic KS 41 Manual wind Unitas 6498

Materiality
Stainless steel, polished
Case

black lacquered and printed in white or silver coated and


Dial

printed in black, with or without date


Glasses Sapphire crystal on top and on the bottom

Hands Temperature-blued steel

Strap Leather strap or metal bracelet Milanaise

Crown Stainless steel with STOWA logo

Individualising
Antea Classic KS individual wheel engraving
Antea Classic 365 individual rotor engraving
Antea Classic 390 individual rotor engraving
Antea Classic KS 41 individual wheel engraving

Page 130 Antea Classic. Technique.


Original dials from the 1930th. Page 131
Page 132
Antea. Back to bauhaus.
Bauhaus design refreshed.
New font. New colors. Modern look.

Page 133
Page 134
History & Inspiration.
STOWA’s desire for a modernization of the classic bauhaus watch,
(the model Antea Classic is built almost unchanged since 1937)
inspired the designer Hartmut Esslinger (founder of frog design) to
take a look back at the history of bauhaus.

He himself says about the Antea back to bauhaus design:

“It had to be a cool interpretation of both the original design of


Lange & Söhne (1937) and also the Antea by STOWA (1937). I kept
the stainless steel case of the Antea Classic. The dial with the mod-
ern Bauhaus STD type from Ed Benguiat and Victor Caruso, creates
a historical original with its sensitive aesthetics. The colors offered
by STOWA are a tribute to Josef Albers and Johannes Itten, because
bauhaus should not only be seen as black or white.”

The font of Antea back to bauhaus has its roots at the time of the
bauhaus (1919-1933). Herbert Bayer, a teacher at bauhaus, has
designed this font between 1925 - 1928. In 1975, Ed Benguit and
Victor Caruso have evolved the font in different cuts. It thus creates
a new original and could have decorated the model Antea back
then. Therefore, we called it back to bauhaus.

Antea back to bauhaus. Inspiration. Page 135


Page 136 Antea back to bauhaus 355. Black. Handwinded.
Antea back to bauhaus 355. Antea back to bauhaus 365.
The modern supplement of the Antea Classic The 36.50 mm version. Automatic move-
with 35.50 mm diameter. Manual wind. ment. With or without date display. Available
Available in 6 different colors. From EUR 950.- in 6 different colors. From EUR 950.-

Handwinding movement. Antea back to bauhaus 390.


Back of the watch with screwed bottom and The 39.00 mm large watch is available in a
sapphire glass. Handwinding movement more modern design. Automatic movement.
Peseux 7001 in the most beautiful finish. With or without date, 6 colors. From EUR 950.-

Antea back to bauhaus. Models. Page 137


Page 138 Antea back to bauhaus 355. Green. Handwinded.
Antea back to bauhaus 355. Brown. Handwinded. Page 139
Page 140 Antea
Antea
backback
to bauhaus
to bauhaus
355.390.
Green.
Blue.
Handwinded.
Automatic.
Antea back to bauhaus 390. Pink. Automatic. Page 141
STOWA. Watchmaker.
Dimensions
Antea b2b 355 35.50 mm case, 18 mm strap, height: 6.90 mm
Antea b2b 365 36.50 mm case, 18 mm strap, height: 9.20 mm
Antea b2b 390 39.00 mm case, 20 mm strap, height: 9.20 mm

Movement
Antea KS Manual wind ETA/Peseux 7001
Antea 365 Automatic ETA 2824-2
Antea 390 Automatic ETA 2824-2

Materiality
Stainless steel, polished
Case

black, brown, green, blue or pink lacquered and printed in


Dial

white or white lacquered and printed in black, with or without


date
Glasses Sapphire crystal on top and on the bottom

Hands white or black lacquered

Strap coloured leather straps

Crown Stainless steel with STOWA logo

Individualising
Antea b2b 355 individual wheel engraving
Antea b2b 365 individual rotor engraving
Antea b2b 390 individual rotor engraving

Page 144 Antea back to bauhaus. Technique.


Marine

Antea back to bauhaus 355. White dial. Page 145


Page 146
Marine. Classic.
Elegant, classic watches. Built since 1942.
With beautifully decorated movements and in
different case sizes. 40 mm and 41 mm.

Page 147
Page 148 Marine Original. White dial, 41 mm case. Unitas 6498 movement.
Historical STOWA pocket watch, produced approx. 1942.

History & Inspiration.


No orientation on the oceans without B-Watch (Marine watch).

B-Watches, also called deck watches or captains watches, could be traced back to the Royal
Navy.For determining the exact position of their many ships belonging to their worldwide fleet,
they needed instruments most precise in time tracking. It was famous British watch maker John
Harrison who constructed the first sea chronometers back at the beginning of the 18th century.
He built large clocks which were able to compensate swell on deck by special appliances. By
1753, Harrison made his first pocket watch, which worked quite precisely. 1790, Ferdinand
Berthoud constructed a special sea pocket watch, that was attached to a rack for compensating
swell. How- ever, during the following decades, not only the Navy but also upcoming natural
sciences required most precise instruments for time tracking. Only watches with an official
certificate were entitled to be called observation watch. For obvious reasons: after leaving the
harbor, the watches should be able to tell the time most precisely for as long as possible. The
only way to ensure the correct determination of one’s own location was by using a sextant and
a watch displaying exact Greenwich Mean Time – calculating the difference between the actual
time and Greenwich Mean Time enabled to define one’s longitude.

In 1939, one year after getting its own company building, STOWA starts production of Marine
observation watches. One feature of the classical observation watch is its very good readability.
Thereto, the dial was often completely covered in luminescent paint. To protect the watches,
STOWA used custom-built wooden boxes (regularly waterproof and shock-resistant). Only 288
items were made of the original STOWA observation watch. Inspired by these early pocket
watches, Jörg Schauer decided to produce new wrist watches, following the historical designs.
By now, they are available in various sizes and with different features.

Marine Classic. History. Page 149


Movement of the historical Marine pocket watch: Unitas 2812 caliber.

Observation Watches & Premium Quality Movements.

2002. Marine 6425. 2005. Marine Classic 40.


STOWA’s first limited Marine watch featured After the limited manual wind watch, STOWA
Unitas 6425 manual wind with subsidiary launched Marine Automatic with ETA 2824-2
second. The movement included Geneva movement in 2005. Since then, this version is
stripes and blued screws. The watch was produced almost unchanged. Due to its date
limited to 100 items (200 had been sched- display and excellent readability, Marine
uled, unfortunately another 100 movements Automatic is a very popular watch for every
which have been ordered could not deliv- day. Also available with solid 925/000 silver
ered from our supplier). dial. (from Page 83)

Page 150 Marine Classic. Development.


18 carat rose-gold watch case of Marine Original being complete finished by hand.

Preserving Tradition - Yet Thinking Ahead.

2006. Marine Original. 2013. Rosegold watch.


The observation watch’s typical display The infrastructure of Pforzheim had a
option is a subsidiary second at 6 o’clock po- strong influence on STOWA’s tradition
sition. 2006, STOWA presents Marine Original of manufacturing gold watches. A lot of
with its legendary pocket watch movement watch-case-manufacturers were located at
Unitas 6498. With its swan’s neck fine adjust- the so-called Gold City (Goldstadt) Pfor-
ment, the movement is completely visible zheim. For some years now, STOWA’s Marine
due to its sapphire glass bottom. Original is also available as a rosegold and
white-gold (750/000) edition.

Marine Original. Development. Page 151


Page 152
STOWA. Office staff. Page 153
Page 154 Marine Classic 40. White dial, 40 mm case. Top finish movement.
Marine Classic 40. Silver. Marine Classic 40. Silver. Date.
Silver without date. Silver with date.
Dial made of 925/000 silver. From EUR 1020,- Dial made of 925/000 silver. From EUR 1020,-

Marine Classic 40. White. Date. Marine Classic 40. Silver.


White laque with date. ETA 2824-2 movement.
Automatic. 40 mm case. From EUR 660,- With hand-made STOWA rotor.

Marine Classic. Models. Page 155


NEW. 2018.

Page 156 Marine Classic Automatic Roman. NEW in 2018.


Marine Classic 40 Roman. White.
The roman version of our legendary Marine design in our 40 mm case. We offer this model with
the ETA 2824-2 basic movement. Of course you can upgrade this watch with a top finish ETA
2824-2 movement or a handwinding version ETA 2804-2. It doesn´t matter which movement
you choose, the Marine classic 40 roman white is a perfect watch for daily use. We deliver the
watch with a black leatherstrap and you can choose between a dial with or without date.

Marine Classic 40. Roman. Date. Marine Classic 40. Roman.


White dial with date. White dial without date.
Automatic. 40 mm case. From EUR 660,- Automatic. 40 mm case. From EUR 660,-

Marine Classic 40 Roman White. Dial versions. Page 157


Marine Original. Marine Original.
White, Roman numerals. White, Arabic numerals.
Manual wind. 41 mm case. From EUR 1.380,- Manual wind. 41 mm case. From EUR 1.380,-

Marine Original. Movement Marine Original.


Black, Roman numerals. Unitas 6498, Swiss Made.
Manual wind. 41 mm case. From EUR 1.380,- With Geneva stripes and blue screws.

Page 158 Marine Original. Dial versions.


Marine Original. Silver. Marine Chrono.
Silver dial 925/000. Automatic or Manual wind.
High end finished dial. From EUR 1.530,- With blued steel-hands. From EUR 1.890,-

Movement, special wheels. Marine Chrono.


Unitas 6498, high end finish. Valjoux 7753 movement.
With hand-finished wheels. A classical chronograph movement.

Marine Original and Chronograph. Features. Page 159


STOWA watchmaker assembling the movement of a contemporary Marine watch.

A Classic Reissued & Awarded.

Marine Chrono.
2013, Marine Chrono wins the 2nd place
at the election for Goldene Unruh by
UHREN-MAGAZIN and Focus Online. STOWA
collectors worldwide favor its classical chro-
nograph look and the valuable components,
like blued steel-clock-hands or the silver dial.
2nd place Goldene Unruh 2013.

Page 160 Marine Chrono. Award.


Marine Chrono. Matt case, black crocostrap. Page 161
Dimensions
Marine Classic 40 40 mm case, 20 mm strap, height: 10.20 mm
Marine Original 41 mm case, 22 mm strap, height: 12.00 mm
Marine Chrono 41 mm case, 22 mm strap, height: 13.70 - 14.70 mm
Marine Original Gold 41 mm case, 22 mm strap, height: 12.00 mm

Movement
Marine Classic 40 Automatic ETA 2824-2
Marine Original Manual wind Unitas 6498
Marine Chrono Automatic or manual wind Valjoux 7753
Marine Original Gold Manual wind Durowe 7440, based on the Unitas 6498

Materiality
Case Stainless steel, polished or fine matt, grinded by hand,

750 rosègold or 750 whitegold (Marine Original)


Dial black lacquered and printed in white, silver coated and

printed in black or white lacquered and printed in black


Glasses Sapphire crystal on top and on the bottom

Hands Temperature-blued steel or polished steel

Strap Leather strap, croco strap or metal bracelet Milanaise

Crown Stainless steel with STOWA logo

Individualising
individual rotor engraving
Marine Classic

individual wheel engraving


Marine Original

Marine Chrono individual rotor- and case engraving,

individual engraved chronograph bridge


Marine Original Gold individual wheel engraving

Page 162 Marine Classic. Technique.


Page 163
Page 164
Partitio. Classic.
Finest scaling. Beauty and functionality combined.
Luminous hand and numbers based on historic models.

Page 165
Page 166 Partitio black handwinding. With serial polished silver second hand.
History & Inspiration.
At the request of the famous mail order company Manufactum, a
remake of another historic STOWA watch was created in 2008. The
special feature of this model from the 1930s is the fine dial scaling.
The model name Partitio (lat.: division) has been derived from that.

The original features luminous hands and numbers and a mechan-


ical hand-wound movement. Although we have modernized the
casing of the watch, the dial and the hands remained true to the
original.

For many years now, this model complements the assortment in


the catalog and in the shops of Manufactum throughout Germany.
True to the motto: They still exist, the good things the watch lovers
enjoy the simple yet very functional watch.

Starting this year, we offer this model with a new hand-wound


movement and sapphire glass bottom. Both dial versions, white
and black, are available with this. You can choose between the
serial polished silver second hand or a red colored one.

Partitio. Inspiration. Page 167


Page 160 Partitio White automatic. With serial polished silver second hand.
Partitio white. Red second. Partitio black. Red second.
Automatic or handwinding. Automatic or handwinding.
With a red second hand. From Euro 728,- With a red second hand. From EUR 728,-

Automatic. Solid bottom. Handwinding. Glass bottom.


Movement. ETA 2824-2. Movement. ETA 2804-2.
With solid bottom. Handwinding, swiss made in top finish.

Partitio Black. With red second hand. Page 169


Dimensions
Partitio Automatic 37 mm case, 18 mm strap, height: 10.80 mm
Partitio Manual Wind 37 mm case, 18 mm strap, height: 10.80 mm

Movement
Partitio Automatic Automatic ETA 2824-2
Partitio Manual Wind Manual wind SW 215-2

Materiality
Stainless steel, polished
Case

black matt lacquered and printed in white or white matt


Dial

lacquered and printed in black and coated with


Superluminova Old Radium
Glasses Sapphire crystal on top and on the bottom (Manual wind)

Hands polished, nickel-plated with Superluminova Old Radium

Strap Leather strap or metal bracelet Milanaise

Crown Stainless steel with STOWA logo

Individualising
Partitio Automatic individual case engraving
Partitio Manual Wind individual case or wheel engraving

Page 170 Partitio. Technique.


Seite 171

Historical Partitio, Produced around 1938. Actual watch. 2016.


Page 172
Chronographs. Classic.
With carefully designed features of historic STOWA
pocket or pilot watches. Awarded.

Page 173
Page 174
Historical STOWA chronographs, approx. 1968 and 1972.

The History of STOWA’s Chronographs.


STOWA looks back on a long and successful tradition regarding the construction of mechanical
chronographs. Its history reaches back to the 1960s and 1970s. There were plain chronographs
with classical watch cases as well as dainty ones with colorful designs in the 1970s. STOWA has
always been a part of it with its exceptional watches. Inside of these collectors’ items, many of
it displayed at STOWA museum, the watches feature mechanical movements of times past: Val-
joux movements, Landeron calibers and more. Even today, Swiss movements are used further
on, as in all STOWA watches – for example famous established Valjoux 7753 chronograph mo-
vement (reliable and solid). Generally, one of the best calibers. Over 25 years now, Jörg Schauer
and STOWA use this chrono movement very successfully for their watch production.

Chronographs. History. Page 175


Modification of the automatic chronograph movement to manual wind. Here: exchanging the barrel.

Based on Historical Designs. Marine Chrono.

Marine Chrono. Handwinding.


Marine Chrono is based on the pocket All of STOWA’s chronographs are also avail-
watch design of STOWA’s Beobachtungsuhr able with manual wind. For this, a special
(observation watch) from 1940 (see picture bridge for the movement is made and, if
on the right). A silver dial and blued steel- requested, embellished with an individual
clock-hands represent pure classic. Available engraving. Please feel free to contact us.
with automatic movement as well as manual Together, we develop a unique watch for
wind. From EUR 1,890.- you. Extra charge from EUR 300.-

Page 176 Chronograph. Marine.


Historical STOWA pocket watches, approx. 1940 and 1938.

Pocket Watch Design. Chrono 1938 in black and bronze.

Chrono 1938 Black. Chrono 1938 Bronze.


These two chronographs are based on a Chrono 1938 in bronze features engraved
pocket watch from 1938, which served as numerals which are turned down with a
model and guideline. As it used to be, the diamond on final work step to evoke its
dial is complexly eightfold printed. This is the rosegold glinting natural bronze. Cer-
only way to attain these fine numerals and tainly, the watch hands are coordinated
lettering. Chrono Black additionally features in colour. One of our noblest watches.
date display. From EUR 1,930.- From EUR 1,930.-

Chronograph. 1938. Page 177


Awarded. STOWA’s Flieger Chronograph.

Flieger Chrono.
Reduction. STOWA´s Flieger Chrono deli-
berately goes without permanent subsidiary
second enabling to maintain the original
pilot watch design. No doubt, this design
innovation helped winning the Goldene Un-
ruh 2012. Also available with manual wind.
From EUR 1,890.-

Page 178 Flieger Chronograph. Award.


Chrono. Flieger.
Keeping the traditional Flieger design due to reduction.

Regarding this chrono, Jörg Schauer tried to keep as much of the typical pilot watch de-
sign as possible. Going without permanent subsidiary second at 9 o’clock position made
this possible. That way, numerals 8, 9 and 10 could be kept on the dial. Also in automatic.
From EUR 1,830.-

Flieger. Chronograph. Page 179


STOWA watchmaker assembling the movement of a contemporary Marine watch.

A Classic Reissued & Awarded.

Marine Chrono.
2013, Marine Chrono wins the 2nd place
at the election for Goldene Unruh by
UHREN-MAGAZIN and Focus Online. STOWA
collectors worldwide favor its classical chro-
nograph look and the valuable components,
like blued steel-clock-hands or the silver dial.
2nd place Goldene Unruh 2013.

Page 180 Marine Chrono. Award.


Chrono. Marine.
Blued Steel-Watch-Hands and a Silver Dial.

Like all of STOWA’s chronographs, Marine Chrono features a 41 mm watch case made of
stainless steel. Sapphire glass protects the silver dial on top and the automatic chronograph
movement Valjoux 7753 at the bottom. Also available as manual wind. From EUR 1,890.-

Chronograph. Marine. Page 181


Page 182
STOWA. Goldsmith.

Page 183
Page 184 Chronograph. 1938 Black with manual wind movement.
Chrono. 1938 Black.
Black dial, Engraved Numerals. Date.
The numbers of this black 1938 Chrono are made with elaborate embossing.
Available with or without date. From EUR 1.930.-

Chronograph. 1938 Black. Page 185


Page 186 Chronograph. 1938 Bronze with grey crocostrap.
Chrono. 1938 Bronze.
Bronze Dial with Elaborately Engraved Numerals.
The numerals of this chrono are complexly eightfold printed. This is the only way to realize
these extremely fine lines. At the end of the process, the silver-plated numerals are turned
down with a diamond. That way, the rosegold glinting bronze reappears. From EUR 1.930.-

Chronograph. 1938 Bronze. Page 187


Dimensions
Chrono 1938 41 mm case, 22 mm strap, height: 13.70 - 14.70 mm
Flieger Chrono 41 mm case, 22 mm strap, height: 13.70 - 14.70 mm
Marine Chrono 41 mm case, 22 mm strap, height: 13.70 - 14.70 mm

Movement
Chrono 1938 Automatic or manual wind Valjoux 7753
Flieger Chrono Automatic or manual wind Valjoux 7753
Marine Chrono Automatic or manual wind Valjoux 7753

Materiality
Case Stainless steel, fine matt, grinded by hand or stainless steel,

polished
Dial black matt lacquered or silver coated

Glasses Sapphire crystal on top and on the bottom

Hands polished and nickel-plated, temperature-blued steel, or

temperature-blued steel, filled with Superluminova C3


Strap Leather strap or metal bracelet Milanaise

Crown Stainless steel onion crown or with STOWA logo

Individualising
Chrono 1938 individual rotor and case engraving,

individual engraved chronograph bridge


Flieger Chrono individual rotor and case engraving,

individual engraved chronograph bridge


Marine Chrono individual rotor- and case engraving,
individual engraved chronograph bridge

Page 188 Chronographs. Technique.


Chronograph Marine. Matt case. Black croco strap. Page 189
Page 190
Seatime. Prodiver. Since 1963.
Robust sport watches. Tradition from STOWA.
With much reserve. 300 to 1000 meters waterproof.

Page 191
Page 192
Historical STOWA Seatime watches, 1963 - 1985.

History & Inspiration.


Since 1963, STOWA successfully produces professional sports and diving watches.
The resulting watches have been various over the last decades. Especially during
the 1970s, STOWA designers have been very active. Exceptional watches with cra-
zy colors were created. Since Jörg Schauer’s takeover of the brand, the company’s
aim is to continue tradition with care but also to modernize the watch models –
resulting in new sports watch Seatime (waterproof up to 300 meters) and diving
watch Prodiver (1000 meters waterproofness). Former design features have been
edited and adapted carefully without destroying the DNA of the watches.

Sport watches. History. Page 193


The first new Seatime with index dial (2004).

Reissue. Wanted by Watch Fans.

2004. Seatime Limited. 2005. Seatime Serie.


Together with a German internet board com- After the first limited series with index dial,
munity, a new Seatime dial is created and Jörg Schauer presents the serial watch which
produced as a limited edition. Most striking is produced almost unchanged until today.
features of this modern era sports watch The watch features a dial with luminescent
are the luminescent index lines and various numerals and date display. Since then, limit-
watch dial colors combined with it. ed colors (for example blue and pink) for the
dial have been realized.

Page 194 Sport watches. Actual model History.


Sheer engineering regarding the Prodiver. A straight forward design and best functionality through helium valve.

Technik pur bei der Prodiver. Geradlinigkeit im Design, Funktionalität durch Heliumventil.

Preserving Tradition - Yet Thinking Ahead.

2006. Prodiver. 2014. Black Forest Limited.


The wish for Seatime to become even more Inspired by the collaboration with Hartmut
excellent and to incorporate all features of a Esslinger regarding the Rana watch, Jörg
real diving watch in it, resulted in the devel- Schauer creates a feature called Dynadots
opment of Prodiver. A helium valve and wa- bezel. For the first time, the markings on the
terproofness of 1000 meters guarantee best bezel appear subtly visible. Ascending lumi-
functionality. This is why the watch is very nescent dots clearly show the course of time.
appreciated by sportsmen and collectors.

Sport watches. Actual model History. Page 195


Prodiver. New. Summer 2018.
A clear white dial. 3300 ft waterproof. Titanium case.
NEW. Prodiver white.

Prodiver white. Titanium case. 3300 ft waterproof. Page 197


Winner 2015.

Awarded. The Prodiver. Winner of the Year 2013, 2014 and 2015.

2013. Orange. 2014. Lime hands.


In 2013, orange colored Prodiver won hearts Lime for watch hands appears to be a
of watch collectors worldwide. The watch beautiful and striking spot of color. Again,
appears daring and brisk, and gets rewarded watchtime.net’s voters like it and, in the
for it. Currently, Prodiver is not only available category of under EUR 2,500.-, Prodiver Lime
in orange but also lime-colored, which rep- earns the majority of votes. For that matter,
resents Jörg Schauer’s favorite tint and the the lime green hands are also available with
watch he wears during every sports activity. rhodium and carbon watch dials.

Page 198 Sport watches. Awards.


Seatime. Seatime.
Black Forest Limited Edition. Serial.
200 pieces. Dynadots bezel. EUR 1.390,- Automatic. 42 mm case. From EUR 1.230,-

Seatime. Seatime.
Backside. Colored second hands.
ETA 2836-2 movement. Sapphire glass. Sports watch with spot of color. Red or lime.

Sport watches. Seatime. Page 199


Prodiver. Prodiver.
Rhodium black. Rhodium orange.
Automatic. 42 mm. From EUR 1.320,- Automatic. 42 mm. From EUR 1.320,-

Prodiver. Prodiver.
Black black. Black orange.
Automatic. 42 mm. From EUR 1.320,- Automatic. 42 mm. From EUR 1.320,-

Page 200 Sports watches. Prodiver.


Prodiver. Prodiver.
Rhodium lime. Orange.
Automatic. 42 mm. From EUR 1.320,- Automatic. 42 mm. From EUR 1.320,-

Prodiver. Prodiver.
Black lime. Lime.
Automatic. 42 mm. From EUR 1.320,- Automatic. 42 mm. From EUR 1.320,-

Sports watches. Prodiver. Page 201


Page 202 Prodiver. Blue Limited.
Prodiver. Blue Limited.
Limited to 200 pieces worldwide.
Beautiful blue dial, polished hands and titanium case.
2016 awarded by watchtime.net as the best divers watch
in the price category up to EUR 2.500.- !

Prodiver. Blue Limited. 200 pieces. Page 203


Page 204 Prodiver. Olymp. Goldinlay 750/000.
Prodiver. Olympic.
Real bronze, silver 925/000 and gold 750/000 bezels.
Emotional high quality material and colors.
In 2017 again awarded by watchtime.net as the best
divers watch in the price category up to EUR 2.500.- !

Prodiver. Olymp. Silverinlay 925/000. Bronze version was awarded! Page 205
Dimensions
Seatime 42 mm case, 22 mm strap, height: 13.50 mm
Seatime Black Forest Limited 42 mm case, 22 mm strap, height: 13.50 mm
Prodiver 42 mm case, 22 mm strap, height: 15.60 mm

Movement
Seatime Automatic ETA 2824-2
Seatime Black Forest Limited Automatic ETA 2824-2
Prodiver Automatic ETA 2824-2

Materiality
Case Titanium, fine matt, sandblasted, Prodiver with a helium valve
Dial matt lacquered and coated with Superluminova C3
Glasses Sapphire crystal on top and on the bottom
Hands lacquered and filled with Superluminova C3
Strap Leather strap or rubber strap
Crown Titanium, screw-down, with STOWA logo

Individualising
Seatime individual rotor engraving
Seatime Black Forest Limited individual rotor engraving
Prodiver individual bottom engraving

Page 206 Sport watches. Technique.


Rana

Prodiver. Solid Titanium bezel. Best afterglow performance in the market.


Page 208 Historical STOWA advertising. 1952.
Historical STOWA advertising. 1960. Page 209
Page 210 Historical STOWA advertising. 1968.
Historical STOWA advertising. 1973. Page 211
Page 212
Rana. Uncompromising.
Innovative design from Hartmut Esslinger.
Hartmut Esslinger is the founder of frog design and inventor of the Apple design language.
He worked very successfully for Wega, Sony, Apple, Lufthansa, SAP, Louis Vuitton and many
others. He designed a pioneering new STOWA watch. Innovative and uncompromising.

Page 213
Page 214
Inspiration.
Physically, almost all watches look like they did decades ago.
Styling watches are only modified visually. Experiments with me-
chanical gadgets are now the way of differentiation. When it comes
to dials, they are graphically overloaded – to the user’s confusion.
The reading of the time seems secondary. Conceptually, the
STOWA Rana is a watch in accordance with Bauhaus: technically
intelligent, culturally inspiring and simple.

Hartmut Esslinger’s design of the floating disc focused on the time


function. Other elements, such as clean designed bracelets etc.
are supportive, but not dominant. The lateral incisions are both
symbolic (flow) and functional. The crown, for example, is better
integrated into the circle.

Inspiration flowing time: classic dials are worn out visually. Since an
analog dial is to be read both quantitatively (position of the hand)
and qualitatively (numbers or markings), the Rana dial combines
both perceptions: the Dynadot dial of the Rana shows both
the time as hand position, as well as the hours with graphically
growing markings 1 to 12.

Rana. Inspiration. Page 215


Esslinger about symbolism: And about the name:
“The symbolism of innovative products is “For this, the clock should meet the highest
usually very historical: my first iPad proposal demands as STOWA’s flagship due to the
for Steve Jobs, from 1982, was inspired by elaborate craftsmanship and chronometer
a slate block, my Trinitron design for Akio test in Glashütte. When we were finally
Morita and Norio Ogha (Sony) was a picture satisfied after nearly two years - see moment
frame and already planned switching to flat of happiness - the watch was worthy to be
screens in 1978.” called Rana (lat. frog/frog design).”

Page 216 Rana. Symbolism.


The Rana is the most
elaborate watch that STOWA
has ever built .
Jörg Schauer

Chronometer certification. Glashütte. Woodpecker neck.


Each Rana watch is chronometer tested by must not exceed two seconds and the larg-
the German Calibration Service in Glashütte. est deviation five seconds. The fine regula-
A passed chronometer test confirms the high tion of the company Mühle/Glashütte is very
quality of the built-in movement. The strict useful for regulating the movements. The
criteria of DIN 8319 require a fifteen-day so-called woodpecker neck regulation. This
control. In the five positions crown left, crown regulation is an improved implementation of
up, crown down, dial up and dial down, the the swan neck regulation.
average daily range must be between -4 and
+6 seconds, while the average daily deviation

Rana. Precision. Page 217


Technique & Handcraft.
The Rana is the most elaborate model in our collection. We use, for example, the
metal sintering for the middle part of the casing. No other method would have
allowed us to implement the architecture of the casing so uncompromisingly.
After that, we sand and matt it entirely by hand. The patented woodpecker neck
regulation of the factory Mühle helps us to do a chronometer test on every watch
in Glashütte. The sandwich dial, with the innovative Dynadots luminous dots, is
made using advanced laser technology. The Rana shows what skilled craftsmen
and modern technology can do. The high complexity in production allows us to
make only very few watches per year.

Creation of the Rana in the STOWA manufacture.

Dial. Case. Engravings.


The lasered and painted deck dials STOWA’s goldsmiths care about the Several parts of Rana are high-qual-
are printed at the end of the process high-quality surfaces of the Rana ity laser engraved at STOWA. The
and then combined with the basic casing with their technical skills. bottom, for example, receives his
dials from sterling silver 925/000. The requirement: perfect cuts and individual, consecutive numbering,
matting. the bezel its characteristic triangle.

Page 218 Rana. Handicraft.


Rana Dynadots. Rana Dynadots.
Black. White.
Automatic. 42 x 37mm. From EUR 4.200,- Automatic. 42 x 37mm. From EUR 4.200,-

Rana Numero. Rana Numero.


Black. White.
Automatic. 42 x 37mm. From EUR 3.800,- Automatic. 42 x 37mm. From EUR 3.800,-

Rana. Models. Page 219


Form Follows Emotion.
Hartmut Esslinger

Apple IIc. 1984.

Page 220
Hartmut Esslinger.

Page 221
Unique Piece for Hartmut Esslinger. Rosegold 750/000, black DLC coated.

Page 222
Hartmut Esslinger and Jörg Schauer discuss a detail.

Why with STOWA?


“The creative collaboration with Jörg Schauer is a good example of the Black
Forest mentality that ‘to make the best’ also means that you look hard, bring
almost everything into question, are never fully satisfied and handle moments of
happiness - when a design becomes reality, for example – with adequacy.

Jörg Schauer and I came together over his watches and, funnily, my books. Since
I collect mechanical watches since my youth, we quickly found a good dialogue.
First we talked about the DNA of STOWA and how we can create something new,
more forward, from history. Then we decided to develop a watch, which is still
missing in my collection: looking forward rather than the retro trap, innovative
form suitable for modern clothing of both sexes and a connection to the roots of
STOWA and the German Bauhaus style.

Now some will ask: how can you design for such extremes?

STOWA, a small fine manufacture and then global high-tech companies such as
Sony or Apple. Here, a few hundred watches per year and there, millions of smart
phones. In principle, in both cases it is about the people: as a designer you have
to make dreams come true, namely those that the people could dream if they
dared - and should be encouraged - to really demand them. Design is not an art
but requires responsible integration of science and technology, business and
ecology and especially of human culture.”

Hartmut Esslinger, March 2015

Rana. Inspiration. Page 223


Rana. 2015.
Yamaha. 1985.

Page 224
Antea back to bauhaus. 2015.

NeXT Cube. 1986.


Antea back to bauhaus. 2015.

Hartmut Esslinger. Products. Page 225


Dimensions
Rana 42 mm x 37 mm case, 22 mm strap, height: 9.20 mm

3 part case: bezel, middle casepart and screwed bottom,


5 ATM waterproof

Movement
Rana Automatic ETA 2824-2,chronometer certified, officially

tested by the German Calibration Service in Glashütte

Materiality
Case Stainless steel, fine matt, grinded by hand
Dial black matt lacquered or white matt lacquered
Digits dynadots or printed digits
Glasses Sapphire crystal on top and on the bottom
Hands black or white lacquered, second orange or individual
Strap Leather strap or rubber strap
Crown Stainless steel

Individualising
Rana individual rotor and case engraving,

rose gold or white gold bezel 750/000,


rose gold or white gold crown 750/000,
second hand in a colour of your choice

Page 226 Rana. Technique.


Page 227
Page 228
Schauer Watches. Individual.
Jörg Schauer builds special watches, full of character.
Since 1990, Jörg Schauer designs and builds wristwatches. In the beginning, these are
elaborate unique items in platinum, gold, silver or steel. Over 400 individual pieces are
created in the early years and go to collectors around the world. From this, he develops
his characteristic style: The twelvefold screwed bezel and a clear dial design. At the mo-
ment he stops to build his watches. The STOWA engagement takes most of his time. Jörg
Schauer is responsible for the actual STOWA design and he works very sensitive to bring
it to a new level. Anyway he decided to show his own handmade models and story in this
book. As soon as he has time left he will build his unique timepieces again.

Page 229
Page 230
“We owe all progress to those who do not adapt.“*
Since 1990, Jörg Schauer designs and produces his distinctive watches.
Thereby, Schauer prefers stainless steel for the watch cases, high quality mecha-
nical movements and a clean and unique design language.

His signature feature has become the 12-fold screwed bezel. Essential part is
the technical screwing of all hand-finished Schauer watch cases. Among other
things, this enables to restore mint condition even after years. Due to its perfect
surfaces, precision and a design reduced to its essentials, Schauer watches are
real collectibles for 25 years now. Many editions are sold out for years. As a result
of the strong growth of brand STOWA during the past few years (Schauer bought
the brand in 1996), he only was able to produce few of his distinctive watches.
His personal expectations regarding best quality and perfect surfaces, which
require absolutely focused working, were not compatible with the demands
related to STOWA’s growth. He lacked time and tranquilness.

However, Jörg Schauer now wants to invest more time again in the production of
his special watches. Thus, he dedicates himself to his brand STOWA. This is why
his watches are offered in small numbers exclusively and from now on under the
slogan Schauer for STOWA.

* (Martin Kessel. German writer, 1901-1990)

Schauer. Philosophy. Page 231


Page 232
Page 233
25 Years of Passionate Watch Production.
In 1990, at the age of 22, Jörg Schauer decided to become self-employed. As professional
goldsmith and specialist for handmade watch cases, he quickly gained a good reputation
among collectors worldwide. More than 400 watch cases and unique pieces of highest quality
were built in the first years, before he provided all his experience in his own collection. Since
then, many special watches, often limited and/or with special displays, were built – for example
the mechanical editions Digital 1 to Digital 3 and the chronograph QUARADA with chrono mo-
vement Valjoux 7753. Back then, in the year 2000, a true exception: uncompromising, square
and waterproof. Schauer still builds this model. By now, the watch is a real Schauer-classic.

Just in time for his 25th business anniversary, Jörg Schauer wants to produce some of his watch
editions more regularly again. Models like the typical chronograph Kulisse Edition 10 or also
the Kleine Schauer shall become available again in a limited number for collectors worldwide.
More- over, there will be a special edition on occasion of the 25th anniversary at the end of the
year. Schauer’s personal expectation regarding this watch is very high. True to his motto: „Pri-
marily, I produce every watch for myself, as I certainly prefer to have something new, innovative
and exceptional from time to time.“

He is only interested in actually realized concepts. The mere idea seems useless to him if it does
not become reality. Jörg Schauer accepts and respects the fact that this often can be exhaus-
ting and not every single watch model of the last 25 years became a classic. For him, this is
part of his philosophy he lives daily: to keep on designing, building, testing, even to fail with
an idea sometimes but by this to undergo a steady creative process of thinking and learning.
With his anniversary watch as part of his 25th company anniversary, he once more created and
developed an exceptional watch and presents it in Basel 2016 on the biggest fair for watches
and jewellery. The name of the watch: Analog Reminder.

Page 234
Handcraft. Unique Watches.
Jörg Schauer loves surfaces. Only after a In the first years of his self-employment, Jörg
stainless steel case got its typical Schauer-fi- Schauer built over 400 unique watches befo-
nishing, he is satisfied. Collectors appreciate re he created his own watch with the charac-
this visible and noticeable quality. For a per- teristic 12-fold screwed bezel. Among these,
fect matting, whether grounded or sanded, a there were very collectable movements like
lot of work is needed. However, the reward is a minute repetition from Patek Philippe in
a for the used metal typical, perfect look. a 750/000 rosegold case with guilloched
925/000 silver dial.

Schauer. Passion. Page 235


Limited Editions. Awards.
To ensure absolute exclusiveness, many Schauer was especially pleased when he
Schauer watches are limited editions. There made 3rd place with his Digital 2 watch in
have been series limited to 10 or 50 items, Japan in the year 2004. An independent ex-
but even a Schauer serial watch that hasn’t pert panel chose an, at that time, unknown
been produced 500 items of could be seen nobody. Further awards: 1st place Goldene
as very exclusive, considering the large Unruh for Kleine Schauer in 2000 and 1st
amount of watches of each series produced place Goldene Unruh for Edition 9 in 2002, 3rd
by big watch brands. Illustration: Digital 1 place Goldene Unruh for Edition 10 Silver in
watch of 1998. 2011.

Page 236
Handwinding chronograph. Individuality.
Schauer and STOWA offer modification of au- The opportunities that arise from the indi-
tomatic chronograph movement Valjoux 7753 vidualization of a hand-wound bridge are
to manual wind. For this, STOWA produces a diverse. Many personal engravings are possi-
so-called chronograph bridge in-house which ble: Whether it’s initials or data, we implement
can be engraved individually, according to your idea perfectly. In theory, differently
customer´s demands. This will contribute to colored bridges are possible: yellow gold, rose
the uniqueness of the movement which will gold or galvanized dark gray. Challenge us
emphasize the individuality of its wearer. with your own personal wish.
From EUR 300,-

Schauer. Features. Page 237


Page 238
Edition 9. Edition 10.
Many functions. From EUR 4.100,- The Schauer classic. From EUR 3.900,-

Edition 12. Quarada.


With cream dial. From EUR 4.000,- Most complicated Schauer. Ab EUR 5.800,-

Schauer. Chronographs. Page 239


Page 240
Page 241
Page 242
Kleine Schauer. Kleine Schauer.
Onehand black. White.
With steel hand. From EUR 1.600,- Automatic ETA 2824-2. From EUR 1.600,-

Onehand 44. Black. Durowe 7440. Handwind.


With Durowe movement. From EUR 3.400,- Handmade. Different options.

Schauer. Kleine Schauer. Page 243


Dimensions
Kleine Schauer 37 mm case, 18 mm strap, height: 9.30 mm
Chronographs 41/42/44 mm case, 22/24 mm strap, height: 15.70 mm
Einzeiger 44 44 mm case, 22 mm strap, height: 12.30 mm

Movement
Kleine Schauer Automatic ETA 2824-2
Chronographs Automatic or manual wind Valjoux 7753
Einzeiger 44 Manual wind Unitas 6498 or Durowe 7440

Materiality
Stainless steel, fine matt, grinded by hand
Case

black matt lacquered, white lacquered


Dial

Digits white or black printed, coated with Superluminova C3

Glasses Sapphire crystal on top and on the bottom

Hands temperature-blued steel, white or black lacquered,

Superluminova C3
Strap Leather strap or metal bracelet Artus or Kubus

Crown Stainless steel

Individualising
individual rotor and case engraving
Kleine Schauer

individual rotor and case engraving,


Chronographs

individual engraved chronograph bridge


Einzeiger 44 individual movement, wheel and case engraving

Page 244 Schauer. Technique.


Familie. Modell. Seite 245
Page 246
Analog Reminder. Innovative.
New function. Characterful design.
Whenever you have an event in the future, you will never forget it again!
Jörg Schauers new watch is the first in the world who reminds you visually on
all your important events. Completely individualized, handmade and unique.
Made for specialists and watch collectors who want to own the special thing.

Page 247
Function of the new Analog Reminder.

Basic display. Innovative functions.


Normal state of the watch. Luminous In operation, the bezel can be optically ad-
triangle on 12 o‘clock, exclamaition mark justed on a target time and a corresponding
on 6 o’clock. event with the crown on the dial.

Page 248
Analog Reminder. A special watch.
The inspiration for the anniversary model Analog Reminder is already 17 years old.
In 1999, Jörg Schauer had the idea for Memotimer, a watch on which one could
view different, customer-specific displays. The former concept watch that was
based on the chronograph movement Valjoux 7751 was never realized, because
the request was too complex at that time.

In the course of the expansion of electronic watches, the so-called smart watches,
Schauer reinterpreted its original idea and developed a conceptually revised ver-
sion: a centrally mounted, rotatable and lockable disk enables setting important
events. The contrasting digital display shows the event for which you can set a
target time on the rotatable bezel. If the hour hand, which is the same color, is at
the height of the outer triangle mark, you are visually reminded of the important
event. By highlighting the event pane with luminous material, readability is also
guaranteed at night. Everything, of course, mechanical analog ;). The events were
selected based on the individual needs of Jörg Schauer.

In addition to some important things like Meet (for meeting), Call (for calls), Doc
(for doctor,) leisure activities are also highlighted: Sport and Home. The sixth posi-
tion was reserved for an exclamation mark, in order to give an appropriate place
to all the other important things. The watch is made in a limited edition of 100
pieces with green color coding. Green is the favorite color of Jörg Schauer and
has once again been used as a colored accent point.

There will be also a series watch, which is offered with a more subtle color co-
ding. (white hands) The case measures 46 mm.

Schauer. Analog Reminder. Page 249


Nighttime function. Individualization.
The hands, index and also the reminder As the reminder disc is individually lasered
graphics of the Analog Reminder are lumin- and in our region some top specialists are
scent. As we use the white Superluminova located, it is also possible to build complete
BGW 9 (the best available in the market), we individualized unique watches. Gladly we
get a blue luminescent display. The double will give you an individualized offer. Think
index on the 12 o’clock position and the op- about which events are for you personally
posite reminder display facilitate the reading important, and we will realize it precisely
of time at night. and perfect in an unique watch for you.

Page 250 Analog. Reminder.


Once again, I wanted to build
an unusual and characterful
watch for myself.
Jörg Schauer

Hands. Crown.
The openings of the new designed hands Besides others the function of the Analog
were important for the model Analog Reminder can be adjusted by the central
Reminder. They ensure the reading of the reminder disc. By modifying the movement
single event also in case of overlapped hands. the crown becomes the operating element.
Absolute precisely manufactured in Switzer- Pulled in the first position, the optional date
land, these hands allow us a clear differenti- (clockwise) or the reminder disc (counter-
ation in design. The hour hands can also be clockwise) is changeable. The crown engrav-
produced in your desired colour. ing shows the correct rotation position.

Analog. Reminder. Page 251


Laser the dial. Disc cut-out.
The dial of the Analog Reminder is man- After laser cutting is completed, a free sur-
ufactured almost entirely by Jörg Schau- face, on which the luminous zone of the re-
er/STOWA. The basic dial is processed minder disc will be, is turned. On a traditional
elaborately in two steps with a modern old Benzinger lathe, the bronze dial is cut out
laser machine. 1 - The deep engraving with an approximately 0.20 mm depth. This
for adding the luminous material later. zone is the space for the reminder disc (0,18
2 - The laser cutting of the free surface for mm thick), which will later be precisely lying
the Reminder disc. and turning over it.

Page 252 Analog. Reminder.


Cover with luminous paint. Assembling the dial.
After lasering the index depressions, the laser After filling the basic dial with luminous
cutting of the center hole and cutting out of paint, the sandwich dial is assembled. The
the reminder zone, the basic dial is painted previously painted black cover plate of
white. After painting, the luminous color the dial (also from 0.18 mm stainless steel)
Superluminova BGW 9 is mixed and carefully is congruently mounted on the dial. This
filled into the deepening by hand. Exactly produces an exact and precisely readable
finishing with the surface of the dial. Precision graphics. Now only the dial and reminder disc
work. need to be built on the movement.

Analog. Reminder. Page 253


Dimensions
Diameter 46 mm
Height 16 mm
Strap width 24 mm

Movement
Automatic, ETA/Valgranges A 07.171
in TOP finish, Geneva stripes, blued screws

Materiality
Case middle casepart: titanium matt, bezel: stainless steel

with a Superluminova BGW9 triangle


Dial black matt lacquered, sandwich dial

Reminder plate black matt lacquered, writing lasered

Digits/Indexes lasered bar indexes, highlighted with Superluminova BGW9

Glasses Sapphire crystal on top and on the bottom

Hands white and green lacquered, filled with Superluminova BGW9

Strap Leather strap or rubber strap

Crown Stainless steel

Individualising
individual rotor and case engraving
Engravings

individual production of the reminder plate with your wanted


Reminder plate

events, 4 or 6 events (surcharge)


hand colour hour hand is available in your colour wish (surcharge)

Limitation/Price
hour hand in green. price: 5.100,- EUR
100 pieces anniversary watch

hour hand in white. price: 4.900,- EUR


Serial

Individualised hour hand in a colour of your choice, event plate

individualised
you have entirely free choice. price: from 5.800,- EUR

Page 254 Analog Reminder. Technique.


I build the Analog Reminder
according to your wishes.
Jörg Schauer

Unique piece for the GT Racedriver Marc Basseng. Analog Reminder GT Sport. The discs shows: FPI, QUALY, WARMUP, RACE.

Schauer. Analog Reminder GT Sport. Page 255


Page 256
Page 257
Dial Design.
The dial is the face of the watch.
For Jörg Schauer, a beautiful dial design is the initial impulse for a further and deeper study of
a watch. The first emotional moment decides whether a watch finds its way to the wrist of the
watch lover in the end. Previously, the responsibility for the design was with the dial manufac-
turer. Today, many companies employ their own designers to design their watches and dials.
Based on one of the largest and most innovative dial manufacturer in the world, the factory
Weber & Baral (1921-1973), this chapter illustrates the history of the German dial design from
1921 till today.

Page 258
Weber & Baral. 1921-1973.
One of the largest dial factories in the world.
In 1971, the company Weber & Baral celebrated its 50th anniversary and designed five poster
motifs for the occasion. A poster for each decade, with the representative dials of that time.
These prints tell the story of the company in short. Read now all about this company, enriched
by watches of that time. STOWA bought its dials at Weber & Baral over many decades. STOWA
was customer No 3, Lange & Söhne customer No 1. The documents and pictures were kindly
provided by the son of the founder and longtime CEO, Mr. Karl D. Weber and his wife.

Dial. Design. Page 259


Page 260
1920-1930. Art Deco Typography.
The first metal dials develop.

Dial. 1920-1930. Page 261


Page 262
1920-1930. Art Deco font. Luminous paint.
In the 1920s, the beginning of the metal dials at Weber & Baral,
many dials were designed and manufactured with curved numbers.
These playful numbers were often covered with luminous material.
The components of the luminous material were still radioactive at
that time, but the amount on a single dial or the hands (today at
least!) is not sufficient to be a health hazard. In the early 90s, with
the beginning of the watch boom and the beginning of a great
passion for collecting of watch lovers, this phenomenon is repea-
tedly discussed and analyzed.

The first large dial order for the Weber & Baral factory were dials for
the so-called children‘s watches. These watches had a printed paper
dial and were available as a toy in retail stores (for children to learn
to tell time). One day a big order came from a foreign customer.
However, he wanted real hands to turn on the watch. With that, the
children’s watches became more realistic. To meet this require-
ment, the first metal dials were developed and manufactured by
Weber & Baral.

Dial. 1920-1930. Page 263


Page 264
1930-1940. Bauhaus.
Reduced dial design.

Dial. 1930-1940. Page 265


Page 266
1930-1940. Inspiration Bauhaus?
Jörg Schauer researched for many years whether the dials of the
1930s were inspired by Bauhaus. Especially if there was a direct
link between the Hochschule für Gestaltung (1919-1933) and
the design of the then existing watch companies. Since STOWA
was active at the time of Bauhaus (since 1927) and also produced
watches in the commonly called Bauhaus style, he tried repeatedly
to gather more information about it in recent years.

It is clear now that the watches, which are today described as


designed in the Bauhaus style, all date from the period from about
1937. The reports of witnesses and conclusive photo material (first
published here) show that only after the end of the Bauhaus peri-
od, a simpler dial design was implemented. But it seems reason-
able to suppose that the dial design of the 1930s was nevertheless
influenced by Bauhaus and its trends.

In answer to the question “Who designed the dials at the company


Weber & Baral”, there was very interesting information from the
son of the founder and longtime CEO, Mr. Karl D. Weber. At that
time, his father Arthur Weber took the inspiration for new models
from current fashion, new carpet and wallpaper patterns as well as
other everyday items that were subjugated to the time trend (such
as furniture, lamps, etc.). Based on that, he developed new dial
designs every day, together with his designers and printers. He was
therefore the initiator and creator of the original dials of the 1937
STOWA and 1937 Lange & Söhne watch.

Dial. 1930-1940. Page 267


Page 268
1940-1950. Precise.
Dials for military watches.

Dial. 1940-1950. Page 269


Page 270
1940-1950. Technical and functional.
The requirements for functional wrist and pocket watches for the
military determine the production of Weber & Baral since about
1940. Dials for service watches and the well-known large pilot
watches are produced for all prestigious watch brands: Lange &
Söhne, Wempe, IWC, Laco and STOWA.

After the war, machines were scarcely available and in order to ever
be able to produce something, one makes a virtue of necessity.
With the dial design know-how, a series of silver pendants was
developed, which could be sold very successfully and in large num-
bers. The customers‘ desire for something precious was big after
the war. Many have lost everything during the war. The beginning
of a functioning production was once again made, and many em-
ployees could continue to earn for a living at Weber & Baral. In the
beginning, the salary was paid in two ways, one part in cash (but
for which one could not buy many things for everyday life due to
lack of availability) and the other part in kind, which was an import-
ant reason for many to work at the company. Good contacts and
personal commitment enabled Arthur Weber repeatedly to provide
payment in kind as part of the salary.

In the late 1940s, about 2000 dials were produced for a series of
STOWA watches, the so-called Armee Francaise, amongst others.
Those watches were reparation payments to France.

Dial. 1940-1950. Page 271


Page 272
1950-1960. Applications.
Complex dials with genuine metal numbers.

Dial. 1950-1960. Page 273


Page 274
1950-1960. Applications and color.
In the 1950s, the design became more colorful and worked a lot
with applications. Applications are called numbers and indexes
made of real metal, which are pinned on the dial. They enable a
three-dimensional dial and thus very different effects than the
usual two-dimensional dials (most of which were simply painted or
galvanized and printed). Many dials were complexly painted with
three or even four colors and equipped with numbers and/or index
applications.

In combination with domed dials, it was now also possible to make


the watches appear visually more flat. The curvature enabled the
bezel of the housing to be produced more flat, and domed plastic
glass supported this optical trick. Such a high watch glass and a
domed dial, enabled the case maker to make the side view visually
flat.

Even unusual concepts such as skeletonized dials found their way


into the collections of watchmakers.

Dial. 1950-1960. Page 275


Page 276
1960-1970. Diamonding.
Simple and unpretentious dials with lines.

Dial. 1960-1970. Page 277


Page 278
1960-1970. Diamonding.
A second era of simplicity, or rather of simple design, began. While
in the 1930s there were rectilinear numbers and scales (in the
so-called Bauhaus style), now it was further reduced from a design
perspective. Many dials now only had a few lines for dividing time.
Diamonding came into fashion. Here, a linear or fantasy pattern
is diamonded into the metal dial with a diamond tool. Technical
explanation: if you polish the diamond blade of a tool (e.g. a graver
or a turning tool), this tool, when used properly, will make a highly
polished cut. The resulting gloss level can hardly be produced by
another method and diamonded surfaces require no further polis-
hing - they are absolutely perfect!

Today, this method is still gladly used, especially with domed dials.
The diamond cut is done exactly at the curvature of the dial, thus
it has visually a depth and width course. When the base material of
the dial has been galvanized previously, you get a two-tone dial as
a result.

Dial. 1960-1970. Page 279


Page 280
1970-1980. Embossing applications. Digital.
Unlike the patch applications of the 1950s, it was now increasingly
focused on the production related simpler embossing of numbers
and indexes. Contrary to the complex application of, for example,
twelve individual numbers (which previously had to be made
in a complex process), now all the 12 numbers or indexes were
embossed at once, in one work step. This resulted in enormous cost
savings.

Many of the 1970s dials were very colorful and sporty. Very often,
embossed luminous numbers and luminous indexes are found. An
indentation was partially already embossed in the numbers and
indexes (in order to, for example, fill them with luminous material).
An additional diamond cut on the indexes or numbers gave these
dials a very special effect.

The production of dials shows very clearly the technical develop-


ment over the decades. Step by step, all new techniques that exist
on the market were implemented. As soon as new innovative
technologies appeared in the jewelry industry, for example, efforts
were made to integrate them into the design, materiality and surfa-
ces of dials.

With the rise of the quartz boom, one tried to adapt the electrical
digital display to mechanical watches. For example, springing disk
mechanisms were constructed. Particularly PUW and Otero (ebau-
che manufacturer from Pforzheim) were active.

Dial. 1970-1980. Page 281


Page 282
1980-1990. Replaceable. Nothing new.
The 1980s were marked by electronic (quartz) watches. The watch
industry - especially the mechanical area - had problems. The dial
industry in Pforzheim made many affordable dials for local watch
companies, but continued production for worldwide export. Many
things were more important than the price. There were no brands
that developed, manufactured and protected individual and
distinct designs.

The gold town of Pforzheim continued to successfully produce gold


cases and gold bracelets, and was selling them worldwide. The
dials that were used were generated from various eras. It was more
or less recycled from the pool of the last decades.

Meanwhile, embossed dials with, for example, Guilloche or fabric


patterns were technically perfected and there was a lot of effort
to mimic quality dials (a real Guilloche dial can cost up to seve-
ral thousand Euros). The steel engraver, as a profession, was the
true artist in dial manufacturing at that time. In days of work, he
engraved these patterns in the Pfaff - that‘s the positive mould of
a pressing tool. After that, this Pfaff is embossed into the die – the
negative mould of the pressing tool. Then, you could quickly and
conveniently emboss large numbers that have a finished surface.

Dial. 1980-1990. Page 283


Page 284
1990-2018. Brand identity.
Already in 1990, when Jörg Schauer became independent with the
construction of unique watches, from time to time he also bought
dials from another Pforzheim dial manufacturer, the factory Bock
& Schupp. Amazing is the fact that, at that time, dials from big
brands could be bought openly and freely once a week in a factory
outlet. That means that the designs of the companies were not
reserved or protected then. But this should change soon. After
more and more brands realized that design can be an important
unique selling point and differentiator, all dial designs were from
now on used only exclusively. The subsequent years were marked
by remakes of old historical watches that any traditional company
has in its pool or museum. This trend now holds for nearly 25 years,
unchanged. A unique style, as it was developed every few years
from 1920 to 1980 and partially changed radically, does actually
not exist any longer. But there are some exceptions, such as Alain
Silberstein/France or the company Ikepod/Switzerland.

However, in 2015, STOWA presented a new innovative and intuiti-


ve-to-read dial for the model Rana. It was designed by the world
famous designer Hartmut Esslinger. For the first time, time is not
only presented qualitatively, but also quantitatively. Ascending dy-
namic points, the so-called Dynadots, develop and give the watch a
completely new face.

Dial. 1990-2018. Page 285


Page 286
Rana. Dynadots black. Page 287
We believe that precision
of time is paramount,
but everything else should
be simple.
Hartmut Esslinger and Jörg Schauer.

Important: All prices in the book include 19% German VAT.

STOWA GmbH & Co. KG


Gewerbepark 16
75331 Engelsbrand / Germany

Telefon: +49 7082-942630


www.stowa.com
[email protected]

Page 288

You might also like