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Model Kit
i How to Build a Simple Dory Model

Version 1.3

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Thanks for your purchase! Enjoy building this 24-inch by 7-inch Banks-style dory.

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Here are the kit parts for the dory, with an assembled version alongside. The kit comprises two rectangles
of 3mm plywood containing the parts. The kit also includes a length of copper wire, and, if you’ve elected,
an MAS Epoxies “Handy Repair Kit,” an epoxy syringe, gloves, and a bit of very fine wood flour. (Use
baking flour---not sawdust---if you don’t have wood flour.) For tools, you’ll need wire cutters, a pair of
ordinary pliers, a razor knife, and a little 120-grit sandpaper.

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Begin by removing the parts of the

hull from the plywood rectangles.
Use a sharp razor, and be careful!

The “tabs” that held the parts in the

rectangles should be sanded smooth.

As you sand off the “tabs” left by

the computer cutter, be careful to
distinguish between the “tabs” that
held the parts, and the larger “tenons”
that are actually a part of the boat kit.
(See page 2.)

Cut about a dozen 4-inch-long lengths

of copper wire.

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Begin hull assembly by wiring the

transom onto one of the two sides as
shown. You’ll pass the wire through
the holes in the sides and the transom,
then twist them tight with a pair
of pliers.

Here’s the transom wired to the right

side of the boat.

Next, stitch the two side panels

together at the bow. (The bow is
the curved end.)

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Twist the three wires tight just as you

did with transom.

At this stage, you have a V-shaped

assembly that doesn’t look like a boat.
The sides are fastened together at the
bow, and the transom is wired to one
of the sides at the stern.

Slide the bottom into place as shown

here. Its “tenons” will click into the
holes at the bow.

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Bring the side panels together gently.

The sides will bend around the
bottom and the tenons will engage
in the matching holes in the sides.

Wire the left side to the transom now.

This will hold the bottom in place.

There will be gaps between the sides

and the bottom. You’ll close these
gaps by passing a bit of wire across
the span of the bottom as shown here,
through the holes cut in the sides.

Use a pair of pliers to twist the ends

of the wires together. The dory will
begin to assume its final shape.

You may break one or two wires;

that’s okay. Just replace them.

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Tightening the last bottom wire at

the stern.

At this point, the bottom will be

a nice tight fit, but the hull shape
isn’t quite right.

Gently press the seat into the hull,

snapping its tenons into the matching
holes in the sides. This will complete
shaping of the hull!

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Now you need to mix epoxy to

fasten the hull together permanently.
You’ll need a few ounces to start.

Mix TWO PARTS resin to ONE

PART hardener in a small
mixing cup.

Remember, the ratio must be

accurate or the epoxy will not cure.
You cannot speed up or slow down
the cure by modifying the ratio of
resin to hardener.

Mix the epoxy carefully for at least

a minute.

Now add a few pinches of wood

flour (or baking flour) and stir until
you have a mustard-like consistency.

This “thickened epoxy” mixture will

allow you to weld the seams of the
model together.

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Load the thickened epoxy into

a syringe from the top....

....and insert the piston in the syringe.

Notice we’re wearing gloves while

working with epoxy! Never get epoxy
on your skin.

With the syringe, apply a smooth bead

of epoxy to the seam on the outside of
the hull between the side and bottom
as seen here.

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Apply a bead of epoxy to all of the

interior seams as well.

Here, we are applying epoxy to the

seam between the seat and the sides.

Also apply a bead of epoxy around

the transom seams.

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Apply a bead of epoxy to the bow

as well.

When you are done with the syringe,

use a small stick with a rounded end
---a popsicle stick---to smooth the epoxy
in each seam. Try to make these as neat
as you can! The epoxy is very hard to
sand smooth once it cures.

Allow the epoxy to cure for at least

24 hours at room temperature.

When the epoxy has cured as hard as

rock, you can snip the wires that held
the hull together and gave it shape.

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Snip the wires at the transom and

bow and pull them out. If the wire is
stuck, use a lighter to heat the wire
for a moment, then try again. The
heated wire will soften the epoxy
and make it easier to pull out.

Sand the protruding “tenons” flush

with the hull.

Mix up another batch of epoxy

thickened with wood flour. Finish
any seams you weren’t able to reach
because wires were in the way, and
fill any open gaps in the sides as
shown here.

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We have given you three rails in the

kit in case you break one. Apply
plenty of thickened epoxy to each
rail as shown.

Use cheap paper clips as shown

to clamp one rail to the top of the
side panel.

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Here are the rails epoxied in place. The

rails are extra-long. Let the extra extend
out the back as seen here.

When the epoxy has cured for 24 hours,

cut off the rails flush with the transom.

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Sand everything smooth with 120-grit

or 220-grit sandpaper.

With epoxy filler, the holes in the sides

will disappear. The filler sands smooth.

Apply a few coats of paint or varnish

in any color you choose! We used
green for the hull, white for the hull
sides, and varnish for the seat.

Enjoy your dory model!

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CHESAPEAKE LIGHT CRAFT

1805 George Avenue, Annapolis, Maryland 21401

TEL. 410.267.0137
FAX. 410.267.5689
For shipping quotes and ordering assistance,
e-mail us at info@[Link]
For answers to technical questions, e-mail us at info@[Link]

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