370z S1 Return Fuel System

Installation Manual
Revision 12/9/2014

Sections:
1: Notice
2: Vehicle Preparation
3: Depressurize Fuel System and Remove Factory Feed Line
4: Install QD Adapter
5: Install Multi-Fitting
6: Mount Fuel Pressure Regulator
7: Perform Fuel Pump Module Return Conversion
8: Install Hoses
9: Final Setup and Notes
Section 1: Notice
Gasoline is extremely flammable and dangerous. Professional care needs to be taken
while servicing the fuel system.

It is important that the vehicle’s engine mounts be kept in good condition. Excessive
engine movement can compromise fuel hoses and connections.

The fuel tank should be at less than ¼ full before beginning installation. The fuel pump
module flange is not at the highest point of the fuel tank. Therefore, opening a full tank
will cause lot of fuel to immediately spill all over your work area.

Proper ventilation needs to be provided around the vehicle while the fuel system is
open.

The (optional) mini fuel pressure gauge is filled with liquid silicone. This liquid extends
the gauge life by lubricating the internals and dampens the gauge needle reading. There
is a rubber plug on the side of the gauge where the liquid was filled. This plug can
accidently become dislodged, allowing the fluid to leak out. Silicone containment is not
guaranteed or warrantied from customer/installer handling.

Recommended tools and supplies:

 Metric Wrench Set

 Standard Wrench Set
 Metric Deep Socket Set with Ratchet
 Metric and Standard Hex Key Set
 Needle-Nose Pliers
 Small Prying Tools
 Many rags and paper towels
 Flashlight
 PTFE/Teflon Thread Tape
 Protective Eye-Wear
 Band-Saw or Hack Saw (optional)
 Drill with assortment of Drill Bits
 Cable Ties
Section 2: Vehicle Preparation
The vehicle will need to be properly raised on a lift in a shop with good ventilation.

Disconnect negative terminal of battery.

If the engine is warm, allow it to cool down for several hours.

Use a deep 10mm socket to remove the 2 bolts securing the front and rear engine cover
to the intake manifold. Set the cover aside.

Remove the wiring harness support bracket by removing the following 10mm bolt and
using the pliers to remove the 2 wiring harness clips.
Section 3: Depressurize Fuel System and Remove Factory Feed Line
OEM automotive fuel injection systems are intended to maintain fuel pressure after the
engine is shut off. This means that, unless the vehicle has been sitting for a very long
period of time, the fuel system will still be under pressure.

When opening the fuel system, there will be a brief blast of fuel escaping. You need to
take care to prevent this from spraying in an unpleasant or hazardous direction. Wear
your protective eyewear for the duration of this section.

It important that the battery remains disconnected while the fuel system is open. Some
vehicles will seemingly unpredictably charge the fuel system even with the ignition off.
While this is not typical of current Nissans, removing battery power is a good habit to
build.

Turn the pair of 10mm bolts securing the pulsation damper to the fuel inlet pipe 90
degrees counter-clockwise, and do not loosen them any further.

Stuff shop rags around and underneath the 2 bolt flange of the pulsation damper. Tuck
them in well to absorb all the fuel that will discharge when the damper is lifted.
Use one hand to hold down on the damper while using your other hand to remove the
previously loosened 10mm bolts. Continue holding the damper down so that fuel
pressure does not lift it off before you choose to.
Continuously apply downward pressure to prevent the damper from lift-off while
covering the rest of the area with rags.

When satisfied with rag coverage, you may slowly relieve pressure from the damper and
begin to apply upward pressure on it. It will need to raise about ¼” up before the o-ring
will begin to exit the bore and allow fuel to escape. You will hear it, and you will feel it
soaking into the rags. It is recommended to relieve pressure in a controlled manner
rather than all at once. You can let out a little at a time several times until there is no
longer any pressure.
Keep a rag under the pulsation damper until it is removed. It may continue to drip some
fuel.

Starting at the pulsation damper, follow the feed line back to the side of the engine bay
where it meets the fuel hard-pipe. This connection will occur near the exhaust manifold
outlet flange.
Notice the connection security cover and remove it. It simply slides off to the side.

Collect some rags and prepare for fuel to come out when disconnecting the fitting. Press
in on the 2 locking tabs and the fitting will pull up and off the hard-pipe.
Lastly, remove the locking tab collar from the hard-pipe.

The factory feed line with pulsation damper can be stored, it will not be reinstalled.
Section 4: Install QD Adapter
Slightly lubricate the tip of the hard-pipe and insert it part-way into the QD adapter. You
can use a very light coat of engine oil for this.

Continue by inserting in the QD adapter lock collar and threading it into the QD adapter
fitting. You may optionally add some Loctite to the threads if you wish.
Tighten the lock collar to the adapter with 5/8” and 11/16” wrenches.
Section 5: Install Multi-Fitting
Apply a light coating of engine oil to the o-ring on the bottom of the billet multi-fitting
block and insert into the fuel inlet tube in-place of the stock pulsation damper. Take
special care that the o-ring does not get pinched or damaged while inserting. The rear -6
port should face the rear of the engine, with the front NPT port facing the front of the
engine.

Install the supplied hex bolts with washers to secure the multi-fitting to the fuel inlet
tube with a 5mm hex wrench.

You may tighten the rear and top -6 AN port fittings. Visually confirm that the seal
washers are between the port fittings and multi-fitting.
If you have the optional mini-pressure gauge, apply thread sealant tape to the NPT
threads. Generally 2 wraps is plenty. Wrap it around in a clockwise direction so that the
tape does not get peeled back when threaded in. Substitute the gauge with the supplied
NPT plug if you do not have the gauge.

Thread the gauge into the multi-fitting until hand tight. Use the 7/16 wrench on the
square nut at the base of the gauge to further tighten until the gauge is upright.
Section 6: Mount Fuel Pressure Regulator
Attach the regulator bracket with the supplied hardware and a 9/16 hex key.
Install fittings and hardware to regulator as shown. Make sure the -6 fittings have an
o-ring on the ends that thread into the regulator. Lightly lubricate the o-rings before
threading in the fitting. Use thread sealant tape on the vacuum port and NPT plug.
Install the pressure adjustment with the hex key receptacle facing up.
Mock-up the regulator to its final location (behind the RH throttle) and note where to
secure with screws. It is ideal to locate it where the adjustment screw can be reached
without removing the strut tower bar. DO NOT DRILL YET!

Optionally, you can locate the regulator down lower (about 2 inches) and more forward.
This may require custom bending of the bracket to match the contour of the chassis,
and may require moving the O2 sensor plug. For turbocharged vehicles, it is
recommended to be further away from the manifolds (higher up).

Directly behind the VIN numbers, in the battery compartment, there are brake system
pipes. Do not drill blindly through this area! You could pierce the pipes and cause
expensive damage. Remove the battery compartment covers so that you can see what
is on the other side and hold it out of the way as required.

There are a few ways to mount the regulator. The recommended method would be to
remove the upper intake manifold to provide the space to precisely drill. Refer to the
factory service manual for this procedure or contact us for directions.

You could also remove the battery and drill from the battery compartment side if you
have a smaller drill that fits within the compartment.

Secure the regulator either with sheet metal screws or machine screws with nuts on the
opposite side.
Section 7: Perform Fuel Pump Module Return Conversion
Start by removing the fuel pump module from the vehicle.

Remove the right hand parcel shelf behind the seat (number 1). It is held in with snap-in
clips and is removed by pulling it straight up. You may need to use small pry tools.

Expose the pump access panel by removing the sound deadening sheet found under the
shelf. You may wish mark it with a sharpie to indicate forward direction. It is larger than
it looks like it will be, and if you want it back in just right you want an alignment mark.

With the sound deadening sheet removed, unfasten the 4 (10mm) nuts securing the
access panel. You may wish to put orientation marks on the panel before removing. Lift
up the access panel enough to reach in and unplug the electrical connector. Pull the
wiring grommet and connector through the panel so that you can completely remove it
from the vehicle.
You will find the factory fuel pump output connector (#1 below). Dress the area with
rags or paper towels in preparation for the fuel that is going to leak out. There will not
be very much fuel lost from this disconnection and it will not be under pressure if the
fuel system is still open in the engine bay.

Pinch in the 2 locking tabs on the fitting while pushing the connector in a little to relieve
tension so that the tabs release. Then pull the fitting off.

Get as much fuel out of the hose/fitting as you can and then zip tie a rag around it to
prevent further leakage.

Tuck the hose out of the way.

Illustration A (above) is the RH passenger side. Note the components:

1. Retainer Ring
2. Fuel Pump Module (integrated level sensor, filter, regulator, and pump)
3. O-Ring

The O-ring must not make much direct contact with gasoline. Nissan has used a rubber
that can swell from gasoline contact, and it can become extremely difficult to reuse
these O-rings if you let them swell.

Draw a forward facing arrow on both the retainer ring and the plastic pump module top.
The module is spring loaded and pushing up. You will want to just remove 4 of the
(8mm) screws and leave 2 opposing side screws installed. Then, use one hand to hold
downward pressure on the retainer ring (not much, it’s not a very strong spring at all).
While pressing down, use your available hand to remove the remaining 2 (8mm) bolts
and then let the assembly decompress. It will probably rise about a half inch to an inch.

Set aside the retainer ring and gently raise the main assembly just a couple inches.
Locate the large O-ring. Beware of dripping fuel on it as you move forward and don’t let
it get too wet. Notice the hose connection illustrated below.
This hose connection is like the one atop the unit that you already disconnected. This
one will not have any pressure in it, so feel free to just remove it. While lifting this
assembly, it is a tight fit and will be snagging on the opening of the gas tank (sharp
edges). There is a level sensor float on this assembly, and it may snag on things. Do not
use any force when lifting and removing this unit. You will risk damaging the level
sensor.

Cover the pathway out of the vehicle with towels before removing, as this unit will be
dripping fuel the entire way out.

Once removed, it would be a good idea to pour out any fuel remaining in the module. If
you turn it upside down fuel will come out the outlet. Try and get as much out as you
can before moving on.
Remove the canister retaining clip from under the spring loaded rod.

Slide the rods out of the canister and set aside the spring, spacer, and retaining clip. You
may wish to disconnect the wiring from the top to allow you more freedom to work. If
you do so, take photos of the wiring positions with your smartphone so that you will
know where to reconnect the wires when done.
Remove the surge canister from the fuel pump assembly by spreading the canister over
the locking tabs on either side of the assembly while gently pulling the canister off. It
may require a little bit of rocking the canister while pulling on it. Be very careful not to
break off the locking tabs.

The factory fuel pressure regulator needs to be removed. In order to remove it, plastic
must be trimmed away. This process is irreversible. Much care needs to be taken to only
remove the required plastic. Use the following photographs as reference.

You must not enter the fuel filter housing or the assembly is ruined (or the filter would
have to be bypassed and an external one added to the system).
By this point the regulator may be removed.
Install the white spacer ring and o-ring from the factory regulator onto the CJM
regulator delete fitting.

Install the CJM o-ring all the way down to the floor of the orifice where the regulator
was.
Tighten the NPT Hose Barb with thread sealant to the CJM Regulator delete fitting and
install the fitting with the spacer and o-ring.

Install the CJM regulator delete fitting clamp using the 2 supplied screws. Make sure the
clamp is not upside down. Tighten the screws gently and evenly.

This is what the regulator delete assembly should currently look like.
Reinstall the canister and check for proper clearance by both of the ears of the CJM
regulator delete fitting. Clearance will be adequate all around here if the regulator
fitting clamp was correctly installed. Be careful not to break the canister locking tabs.

Drill a small pilot hole directly in the center of the pump module lid and increase the size
gradually to .4375 (7/16”). Stepping the size is recommended to help prevent cracking
the lid.
Install the bulkhead fitting with a seal washer on both sides of the plastic flange, and
tighten the bulkhead nut.

Install the in-tank return hose between the bulkhead and CJM regulator delete fitting.
To complete this section:

-Reassemble the pump module by inserting the connecting rods with the spring and
spacer installed. Finally, install the lock clip.

-Put the hose clamp on the lower return hose connection to the regulator delete fitting.

-Install the -4/-6 reducer fitting to the top side of the bulkhead.

-Reconnect any wiring that was removed.

-Reinstall the pump module to the fuel tank. Remember to reconnect the in-tank hose
to the pump module when installing. The fuel level sensor is on the back side of the
module, with the float arm facing the inside of the vehicle. Do not forget to put the fuel
tank o-ring gasket back in the o-ring groove. Compress the pump module to reinstall the
retaining ring.

Only use the (6) original Nissan retaining ring screws. If you misplace any, do not
substitute with aftermarket screws. If the screws thread down any deeper than the
Nissan screws, they can pierce a hole in the thin sheet metal under the screws, causing a
leak through the threads that can only be properly repaired by replacing the entire fuel
tank.

-Reconnect the fuel pump output QD hose.

Section 8: Install Hoses
The very long hose with straight ends is the fuel return line. This hose connects the
bottom outlet of the regulator to the bulkhead fitting added to the fuel pump module.

The 2 remaining hoses are the engine bay hoses. The longer hose’s 45 degree end
attaches to the QD adapter added to the hard-pipe, and the 90 degree end attaches to
the top of the multi-fitting.

The shorter engine bay hose has a 45 degree end that connects to the rear of the multi-
fitting, and the 90 degree end to the side port of the regulator.

It will be easier to run the hoses if you temporarily remove the EVAP hose from the
solenoid on the rear side of the manifold. The EVAP hose is the hose that comes from
the hard-pipe area to the rear of the intake manifold.

Recommendations:

-Loosen the hardware securing the upper intake manifold (2x 12mm nuts and 6x 12mm
screws). By raising the intake manifold a little, the hoses ends will fit underneath it
where shown in the following photo. Once the hoses are run beneath here, the
manifold can be retightened. Make sure the hoses are not being pinched by checking
that they can slide back and forth.
-First, connect the 45 degree end of the longer engine-bay hose to the QD adapter. You
will have to slightly bend the hard-pipe so that the fitting clears the chassis. Since the
QD adapter will spin on the hard-pipe, you may fully tighten the 45 degree end. If you
have fire-sleeve, cover the QD adapter and lower section of the hose with it.

-Second, connect the 90 degree end of the shorter engine-bay hose to the side port of
the regulator clocked to face the engine. Leave it slightly loose so that it is free to clock.

-Connect the 45 degree end of the shorter engine-bay hose to the rear of the multi-
fitting, clocked towards the intake manifold. Fully tighten both this end and regulator
end while adjusting the slack by adjusting the clocking of the fittings.

-Connect the 90 degree end of the longer engine-bay hose to the top of the multi-fitting
and tighten. Attempt to adjust the slack so that the hose is not continuously rubbing on
anything as the engine rocks in its mounts. It is a very tight and frustrating environment.
Fire-sleeve can be used to provide additional hose protection in areas of question.

-With both engine-bay hoses tight on both ends, secure with cable ties.
-Route the return hose from the bottom outlet of the regulator, following the feed pipe
all the way back, and connect to the bulkhead on the pump module.

-It is recommended to start at the rear of the car by feeding the hose up the front of the
fuel tank. You will find it easier to do this by removing the W-shape chassis brace.
Connect the end to the bulkhead fitting, and route the hose through the extra position
in the fuel pipe support clips all the way to the front of the vehicle, and up to the
bottom side of the regulator.

-Use optional fire-sleeve to protect the return line near the exhaust manifold on
turbocharged vehicles. Secure the hose very well with cable ties where required
preventing it from hanging loose or from too close of proximity of sources of heat.

-With the return line fully routed and connected at both ends, pull any slack to the top
side of the fuel tank.

-Replace chassis brace and any other components removed during hose routing.
Section 9: Final Setup and Notes
Reconnect EVAP hose if it was removed.

Reconnect the battery.

Check that everything is reconnected and tight. Leave the engine cover off, and leave
the fuel pump access panel off, but connect the fuel pump electrical connector.

DO NOT connect a vacuum line to the regulator vacuum port unless your tuner
specifically instructs you to.

Tighten the regulator adjustment screw 1/3 of the way down and snug the adjustment
lock nut.

Without pushing down the brake or clutch pedal, push the ignition switch once. You
should hear the fuel system prime for a few seconds. Turn the ignition back off. Inspect
the system for fuel leaks and observe fuel pressure on the gauge. One priming cycle may
or may not have achieved pressure.

Prime the fuel system one more time and inspect again for leaks. With the second
priming, the fuel system should achieve some pressure.

Some fuel pressure drop after the ignition is off is normal, but it should be very slow.

Set the pressure close to 52psi.

Inspect thoroughly for any leaks and remedy them as needed.

Start the engine, and immediately adjust the fuel pressure to 52psi or the setting
recommended by your tuner.

Perform several checks for leaks before installing the engine cover or fuel pump access
plate.

The wiring harness bracket can either be left out, or it can be trimmed to clear the
pressure gauge.

Reinstall the engine covers.

Reinstall the fuel pump access plate cover, electrical grommet, and electrical connector.

Reinstall the sound deadening panel and parcel shelf.

With no vacuum line on the regulator, and with the pressure set to 52psi, the fuel
system should not have an effect on the tune, and the vehicle would be safe to drive.

For the safety of your engine, it is highly recommended to confirm the state of the tune
with a wideband A/F gauge immediately after working on the fuel system, especially
with forced induction vehicles.