INVERSION CARDIGAN

2-WAY GARMENT
by Jared Flood
 BLUEPRINT // INVERSION CARDIGAN
MATERIALS NEEDLES
Approximately 935 (1005, 1050, 1155, 1225, 1300) yards of worsted One 32" circular in size needed to obtain Stockinette Gauge listed
weight wool yarn above (suggested: US 8/5mm)
7 (8, 8, 9, 9, 10) skeins of Brooklyn Tweed Shelter (100% US Targhee- One 32" circular in size needed ot obtain Slip-Stitch Ribbing Gauge
Columbia Wool; 140 yards/50g) listed above (suggested US 7/4½ mm)
Photographed in Woodsmoke One 16" circular needle three sizes smaller than Stockinette Gauge
Needle (suggested: US 5/3¾ mm)
Note: Your Gauge Needle for both stitch patterns may differ. It is
GAUGE recommended that you swatch both patterns to determine
Stockinette Gauge: correct needle sizes.
18 stitches & 28 rows = 4" in flat Stockinette Stitch with Gauge
Needle; measured over relaxed fabric after blocking
FINISHED DIMENSIONS
Slip-Stitch Ribbing Gauge: 27 (28, 28½, 30, 30¾, 31½)" length at center back (from nape to
Working Gauge: 23½ stitches & 42 rows = 4" in Slip-Stitch Garter hem), 30¼ (31¾, 33, 34½, 36, 37½)" across, from armhole-to-armhole
Ribbing Pattern; measured over unblocked fabric Garment measures 60½ (63½, 66, 69, 72, 75)" in circumference after
Finished Gauge: 21½ stitches & 42 rows = 4" in Slip-Stitch Garter assembly.
Ribbing Pattern; measured over relaxed fabric after blocking
Intended to fit an individual with a center back neck (CBN)-to-wrist
TOOLS measurement of approximately 28 (29, 30, 31, 32, 33)"
Blunt tapestry needle, stitch markers, waste yarn for holding stitches,
cable needle (used for I-cord Setup Row only – Piece A), T-pins and Sample is shown in first size on model with 28" CBN-to-wrist length
blocking wires (optional), coilless safety pins (optional)
SKILL LEVEL
óóóêê

54 (56, 57, 60, 61½, 63)"

27 (28, 28½, 30, 30¾, 31½)" each half
15 (15¾, 16¼, 17, 17¾, 18½"

Graft Line

PIECE A PIECE B

8½ (8½, 8½, 9, 9, 9)" 8½ (8½, 8½, 9, 9, 9)"

/ /

8½ (8½, 8½, 9, 9, 9)"

PIECE C

3½ (3½, 3½,
/

3¾, 3¾, 3¾)"

30¼ (31¾, 33, 34½, 36, 37½)"

Indicates a Mattress Stitch seam

2
INVERSION CARDIGAN
This deceptively simple cocoon cardigan is inspired by Japanese origami. Constructed from two simple rectangles, the relaxed and cozy fitting sweater
can be worn right side up or upside down. It’s the ultimate ‘comfort’ sweater and is equally appropriate at home over your pajamas, or out with a pair
of slim jeans and a long-sleeved shirt. With only three seams (and one graft), this is a quick knit with a great end result!

CONSTRUCTION NOTES PIECE A

• Cocoon is constructed of two plain rectangles, with the first With Ribbing Gauge Needle, cast on 83 (87, 91, 95, 99, 103) stitches
being two separate pieces (A & B) that are grafted together. Both using your preferred method. Do not join work into the round – you
Pieces A & B begin with a Slip-Stitch Garter Ribbed Hem. When will be working flat.
Hem reaches sufficient Length, front band stitches are put on a
holder and Stockinette portion of Piece is worked by itself. Upon Row 1 (RS): Knit until 3 stitches remain in row, bring yarn to front and
completion of Stockinette section, you will return to the held slip last 3 stitches purlwise to R needle.
band stitches and knit them separately (this is necessary due to Row 2 (WS; I-Cord Setup): Transfer first 3 stitches of row to CN, rotate
these stitch patterns’ significantly different row gauges). When CN clockwise a half-turn so that third stitch is now first and first
ribbed band measures the same length as for Stockinette section, is now third, knit 3 from CN, *knit 2 from L needle, bring yarn to
band is seamed to Stockinette portion. The top edge is then front, slip 2 purlwise, bring yarn to back; repeat from * until 4
grafted to the corresponding A/B piece at center back. stitches remain in row, knit 2, purl 2.
• Collar Edges of Pieces A & B are trimmed with a built-in I-cord.
• Piece C is worked in one piece, beginning with a Slip-Stitch BEGIN SLIP-STITCH GARTER RIB PATTERN
Ribbed Hem and ending with a Stockinette Portion. Row 1 (RS): Slip 2 with yarn in back, knit until 3 stitches remain in row,
• Pieces A/B and C are assembled with 3 seams – as shown in bring yarn to front, slip 3 purlwise.
schematic – leaving space for the armholes. Row 2 (WS): Knit 3, *knit 2, bring yarn to front, slip 2 purlwise, bring
• Stitches are picked up around each armhole and trimmed with yarn to back; repeat from * until 4 stitches remain in row, knit 2,
1x1 ribbing. purl 2.
• All measurements given in pattern refer to finished (blocked)
gauge. If your working (pre-blocked) and finished gauges differed Repeat the last two rows, establishing Slip-Stitch Garter Rib with built-
in width or height, factor this in when taking measurements as in I-cord edge (along left edge, with RS facing), until fabric measures
you work. 2½ (2½, 2½, 2¾, 2¾, 2¾)" at Finished Gauge.

If you match the listed pattern gauge, you will have repeated Rows 1 &
2 a total of 11 (11, 11, 12, 12, 12) more times (this is 1 repeat less than
piece B because you have 2 extra rows for the set-up on this piece).

Set-up Row (RS): Knit until 24 (24, 24, 28, 28, 28) stitches remain in
row, knit into the front and back of next stitch, creating a new
stitch (this will be your selvage stitch for the stockinette portion
of Piece A). Transfer 23 (23, 23, 27, 27, 27) remaining stitches from
L Needle onto waste yarn. You will return to these stitches later
for working front band separately. Turn work. You now have 61 (65,
69, 69, 73, 77) stitches on your needle.
Decrease Row (WS): Switch to Stockinette Gauge Needle, then purl 3
(4, 3, 3, 5, 4), p2tog, [purl 4, p2tog] 9 (9, 10, 10, 10, 11) times, purl
2 (5, 4, 4, 6, 5). Upon completion, 10 (10, 11, 11, 11, 12) stitches have
been decreased.

You now have 51 (55, 58, 58, 62, 65) stitches on your needle. You will work
the remainder of the Stockinette section with Stockinette Gauge Needle
over these stitches.

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 BEGIN STOCKINETTE STITCH FRONT BAND
Row 1 (RS): Knit all stitches in row. Return to held stitches of Slip-Stitch Ribbed Band and place them
Row 2 (WS): Purl all stitches in row. onto Slip-Stitch Ribbing Gauge Needle. With RS facing, join in new
yarn by casting on 1 stitch with a slip knot onto R needle (this will be
Repeat the last two rows until work measures just under 27 (28, 28 your selvage stitch), then continue as follows:
½, 30, 30¾, 31½)" from cast-on edge at Finished Gauge, ending with
a RS row. Setup Row (RS): Knit until 3 stitches remain in row, bring yarn to front
and slip last 3 stitches purlwise to R needle.
If you match finished pattern gauge, you will have repeated the last two
rows 84 (87, 89, 93, 95, 98) more times plus one more RS row, for a total You now have 24 (24, 24, 28, 28, 28) band stitches on your needle.
of 173 (179, 183, 191, 195, 201) Stockinette Rows – including Setup and
Decrease Rows. Row 1 (WS): Knit 3, *knit 2, bring yarn to front, slip 2 purlwise, bring
yarn to back; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain in row, knit 2,
Next Row (WS): P2tog (selvage stitch together with second stitch in purl 3.
row), purl to the end of row. 1 stitch decreased; 50 (54, 57, 57, 61, Row 2 (RS): Knit 1, slip 2 with yarn in back, knit until 3 stitches remain
64) stitches now on needle. in row, bring yarn to front, slip 3 purlwise.

Place live stitches onto waste yarn and fasten with a bow (not a knot Repeat the last 2 rows until your work measures the same length [27
– you will need to add stitches to this waste yarn upon completion of (28, 28½, 30, 30¾, 31½)" from cast-on edge] at Finished Gauge as
front band). corresponding Stockinette Portion, when slightly stretched.

If you match finished pattern gauge, you will have repeated the last two
rows approximately 128 (133, 136, 142, 146, 150) more times, for a total of
258 (268, 274, 286, 294, 302) Band Rows from the point where you joined
in new yarn.

Note: An easy way to keep track of how many rows have been worked
is by counting the Garter Stitch ridges between your columns of
Slipped Stitches. Each ridge represents 2 rows.

Next Row (WS): SSK, knit 1, *knit 2, bring yarn to front, slip 2 purlwise,
bring yarn to back; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain in row,
knit 2, purl 1, p2tog. 2 stitches decreased; 22 (22, 22, 26, 26, 26)
stitches now on needle.

Transfer band stitches onto same waste yarn as Stockinette Portion.

Place piece aside and work Piece B.

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PIECE B FRONT BAND
With Ribbing Gauge Needle, cast on 83 (87, 91, 95, 99, 103) stitches Return to 24 (24, 24, 28, 28, 28) held stitches of Slip-Stitch Ribbed
using your preferred method. Do not join work into the round – you Band and place them onto Slip-Stitch Ribbing Gauge Needle. With WS
will be working flat. facing, join in new yarn and continue as follows:

BEGIN SLIP-STITCH GARTER RIB PATTERN Row 1 (WS): Purl 1, *bring yarn to front, slip 2 purlwise, bring yarn to
Row 1 (RS): Knit all stitches in row. back, knit 2; repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, bring yarn to
Row 2 (WS): Slip 2 with yarn in front (towards WS), *bring yarn to back, front and slip the last 3 stitches of row.
knit 2, bring yarn forward, slip 2 purlwise; repeat from * until 5 Row 2 (RS): Knit all stitches in row.
stitches remain in row, bring yarn to back, knit 2, bring yarn to
front and slip the last 3 stitches of row, unworked. Repeat the last 2 rows until your work measures the same length [27
(28, 28½, 30, 30¾, 31½)" from cast-on edge] at Finished Gauge as
Repeat the last two rows, establishing Slip-Stitch Garter Rib with built- corresponding Stockinette Portion when slightly stretched.
in I-cord edge (along right edge, with RS facing), until fabric measures
2½ (2½, 2½, 2¾, 2¾, 2¾)" at Finished Gauge. If you match the listed Before proceeding, refer to Note in corresponding section of pattern for
pattern gauge, you will work Rows 1 & 2 a total of 13 (13, 13, 14, 14, 14) Piece A.
times.
Next Row (WS): SSP, bring yarn to front, slip 1 purlwise, bring yarn
Setup Row (RS): Knit 22 (22, 22, 26, 26, 26), knit into the front and to back, *knit 2, bring yarn to front, slip 2 purlwise, bring yarn to
back of next stitch – increased stitch is the selvage for Front back; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain, knit 2, purl 1, p2tog.
Band – you now have 24 (24, 24, 28, 28, 28) stitches on your R 2 stitches decreased; 22 (22, 22, 26, 26, 26) stitches now on needle.
needle and 60 (64, 68, 68, 72, 76) stitches on your L needle. With a
tapestry needle, transfer the 24 (24, 24, 28, 28, 28) stitches from R Transfer band stitches onto same waste yarn as Stockinette Portion.
needle to waste yarn – these are your Band stitches to be worked
later. Resuming with working yarn, knit into front and back of first Steam or wet-block both Pieces A and B to schematic measurements.
stitch (1 stitch increased for selvage), then knit to end of row. You
now have 61 (65, 69, 69, 73, 77 stitches on your needle. This is your chance to confirm that both Stockinette and Band sections
Decrease Row (WS): Switch to Stockinette Gauge Needle, then purl 2 match in length at finished (blocked) gauge. If, after blocking, there is a
(5, 4, 4, 6, 5), p2tog, [purl 4, p2tog] 9 (9, 10, 10, 10, 11) times, purl discrepancy, add or subtract length from either piece so that they match
3 (4, 3, 3, 5, 4). 10 (10, 11, 11, 11, 12) stitches have been decreased. before proceeding.

You now have 51 (55, 58, 58, 62, 65) stitches on your needle. You will work Once dry, using Mattress Stitch and a single-stitch seam allowance on
the remainder of the Stockinette section with Stockinette Gauge Needle both sides, seam the Front Band on each piece to its corresponding
over these stitches. Stockinette portion, as indicated by the seam line in schematic. Upon
completion you will have two mirroring pieces.
BEGIN STOCKINETTE STITCH
Row 1 (RS): Knit all stitches in row. GRAFT PIECES A & B
Row 2 (WS): Purl all stitches in row. Transfer live stitches of Piece A to one long circular needle and live
stitches of Piece B to a second circular. With RSs facing up (towards
Repeat the last two rows until work measures just under 27 (28, 28½, you), line up both sets of live stitches and graft Piece A to Piece B using
30, 30¾, 31½)" from cast-on edge at Finished Gauge, ending with a Kitchener Stitch (see Special Techniques).
RS row. Note: There will be a half-stitch difference that will be slightly visible
where the front bands come together. This is normal and cannot be
If you match finished pattern gauge, you will repeat the last two rows 84 avoided, due to the structure of the knitted fabric.
(87, 89, 93, 95, 98) more times plus one more RS row, for a total of 173 (179,
183, 191, 195, 201) Stockinette Rows – including Setup and Decrease Rows.

Next Row (WS): Purl until 2 stitches remain in row, p2tog (selvage
stitch together with second-to-last stitch in row). 1 stitch
decreased; 50 (54, 57, 57, 61, 64) stitches now on needle.

Place live stitches onto waste yarn and fasten with a bow (not a knot
– you will need to add stitches to this waste yarn upon completion of
front band).

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 PIECE C
With Ribbing Gauge Needle, cast on 162 (170, 178, 186, 194, 202)
stitches using your preferred method. Do not join work into the round
– you will be working flat.

BEGIN SLIP-STITCH GARTER RIB PATTERN

Row 1 (RS): Slip 2 with yarn in back, knit across remaining stitches.
Row 2 (WS): Slip 2 with yarn in front, bring yarn to back, *knit 2, bring
yarn to front, slip 2 purlwise, bring yarn to back; repeat from *
until 4 stitches remain in row, knit 2, purl 2.

Repeat the last two rows, establishing Slip-Stitch Garter Rib, until
fabric measures 2½ (2½, 2½, 2¾, 2¾, 2¾)" at Finished Gauge. If you
match the listed pattern gauge, you will repeat Rows 1 & 2 a total of 12
(12, 12, 13, 13, 13) more times.

Set-up Row (RS): Knit all stitches.

Decrease Row (WS): Switch to Stockinette Gauge Needle, then purl 1,
p2tog 0 (0, 1, 2, 2, 2) times, [purl 4, p2tog] 26 (28, 29, 30, 31, 32)
times, p2tog 0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 2) times, purl 5 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1). [26 (28, 30,
32, 34, 36) stitches decreased.]

You now have 136 (142, 148, 154, 160, 166) stitches on your needle.

BEGIN STOCKINETTE STITCH

Row 1 (RS): Knit all stitches in row.
Row 2 (WS): Purl all stitches in row.

Repeat the last two rows until Piece C measures 12 (12, 12, 12¾, 12¾,
12¾)" from cast-on edge at your Finished Gauge. If you match the listed
pattern gauge, you will work the last 2 rows 32 (32, 32, 34, 34, 34) times
total, having worked 66 (66, 66, 70, 70, 70) rows of Stockinette Stitch
including Set-up and Decrease Rows.

Neatly bind off all stitches in a relaxed manner from the RS.

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FINISHING ARMHOLE BANDS
BLOCK BOTH PIECES Using 16" circular needle (suggested size: US 5/3¾ mm), pick up and
Wet-block all pieces as follows: Fill a sink with warm water, adding knit 80 (80, 80, 84, 84, 84) stitches evenly around armhole [40 (40, 40,
a small amount of rinseless wool wash. Submerge finished fabric in 42, 42, 42) stitches from each half ] using a one-stitch seam allowance.
water, gently squeezing out any air bubbles from fabric. Garment At pattern gauge, this is a pick-up rate of 2 pick-up stitches for every 3 rows
pieces should be able to stay under water without being held there. of knitting on stockinette body pieces.
Soak work for 10 to 15 minutes, or until fully saturated.
Place a marker and join work into the round.
Drain sink and squeeze out excess water (do not wring or twist fabric).
Roll your wet fabric between two clean towels burrito-style and Armhole Round 1: *Knit 1, purl 1; repeat from * to the end of round.
stomp on towel roll. This will aid in removing excessive moisture from
your fabric. Unroll towels and remove work. Your fabric should feel Repeat the Armhole Round, establishing 1x1 rib, until band measures
damp but not saturated. 1½" from pick-up round. Neatly bind off stitches in a relaxed manner,
using your preferred method. Sample shown used a 1x1 Tubular Bind
Using T-Pins or blocking wires (preferred), block each piece in a perfect Off (see Special Techniques).
rectangle to schematic measurements. Allow to air dry completely
before unpinning. Repeat instructions for second Armhole.

SEW PIECES TOGETHER FINAL STEAM BLOCK

Center Piece C into position on Piece A/B (refer to schematic) – the Using a steamer or steam-iron and press-cloth, puff all seams gently
Graft line of Piece A/B should align with the center of Piece C. Use with steam to smooth them. Steam both armhole bands.
removable markers or coilless safety pins to mark seaming reference
points so that Piece C gets seamed evenly across. The end of Piece C Weave in all remaining loose ends invisibly on the WS of fabric.
should land exactly 12 (12, 12, 12¾, 12¾, 12¾)" in from either end of
piece A/B.

Seam pieces together using Mattress Stitch and a one-stitch seam

allowance on A/B.

Now, Seam 3½ (3½, 3½, 3¾, 3¾, 3¾)" along ribbed base of each piece
(indicated by ó symbol on schematic) leaving 8½ (8½, 8½, 9, 9, 9)" of
these sides unseamed for armhole opening.

The Construction Diagram on page 9 illustrates how the cardigan will

look after seaming is complete.

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 SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
Kitchener Stitch (Grafting): Tubular Bind-Off (for 1x1 Ribbing)
Kitchener stitch is used to sew live stitches together in a way that mim- This is a method of binding off which uses Kitchener stitch to create
ics a row of knitting. Pieces to be joined are live on needles, with RSs a smooth edge.
facing out and both needle tips pointing to the right. Use a length of
yarn approximately 4 times the length of the finished seam, attached Separate the knit and purl stitches from each other onto 2 separate
to the R edge of the Back knitted piece (use the yarn the piece was needles, i.e., *slip the next knit stitch onto Needle 1 (Front), slip the
knitted with, or attach a new length of yarn). Thread the yarn onto a next purl stitch onto Needle 2 (Back); repeat from * until all stitches are
blunt tapestry needle and follow the instructions below, working from separated, with the knit stitches all on the Front Needle and the purl
right to left (note that you will work into each stitch twice): stitches all on the Back Needle.

1. Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on Front Needle as if to purl; Proceed as for Kitchener Stitch, binding off the stitches by grafting
pull yarn through, but do not slip this stitch from needle. them together.
2. Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on Back Needle as if to knit;
pull yarn through, but do not slip this stitch from needle.
3. Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on Front Needle as if to
knit, slipping this stitch off the needle. Insert tapestry needle into
next stitch on Front Needle as if to purl and pull yarn through this
stitch, snugging it gently.
4. Back Needle: Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on Back Nee-
dle as if to purl, slipping this stitch off the needle. Insert tapestry
needle into next stitch on Back Needle as if to knit and pull yarn
through this stitch, snugging it gently.

Repeat steps 3 and 4 until a single stitch remains on each needle, ad-
justing the tension of the sewing yarn every few stitches so that it
mimics the tension of the knitting. To finish, insert tapestry needle into
final stitch on Front needle as if to knit, slipping it off the needle. Now,
insert tapestry needle into final stitch on back needle as if to purl, slip-
ping it off the needle. Pull the yarn through and fasten off gently so as
not to distort the stitches.

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CONSTRUCTION DIAGRAM & PHOTO
The diagram & photo below show how the cardigan will look after all seams have been completed. The ribbed armhole bands
are picked up and worked in the round, as indicated below.

PIECE B PIECE A

PIECE C

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