National Institute of Fashion Technology

Apparel Internship Report

Classical Menswear Ltd.
(Unit of Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd.)

A dissertation submitted in partial fulfilment of

the requirement for the award of degree in

Bachelor of Fashion Technology

(Apparel Production)

Submitted by

Anika K.Pandey (BFT/21/143)

Under the guidance of

Prof. Dr. Rashmi Thakur

Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology, (Mumbai)

August, 2024
Apparel Industry Report

ABSTRACT
The apparel internship was done for 8 weeks in Aditya Birla fashion and retail limited
(CML). As a part of the curriculum, we have done departmental study and style study which
has given us an idea about how the factory works and what are the day-to-day problems they
face. This report includes our learning outcomes and the summary of the project undertaken
during the course of the internship in the organisation.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I am grateful for the opportunity to complete my internship at Aditya Birla Fashion and
Retail Limited. This experience has significantly enhanced my understanding of practical
applications in my field. I extend my sincere thanks to Mr. Naveen Kumar, my industry
mentor, for his unwavering guidance and insightful mentorship. His expertise has greatly
contributed to my professional growth. Additionally, I am thankful to my academic mentor,
Dr. Rashmi Thakur for her continuous support and constructive feedback, which have been
crucial in preparing me for this industry experience. I also appreciate the entire ABFRL team
for their warm welcome and the opportunities to apply my classroom learning to real-world
scenarios. This internship has been invaluable for my career development.

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COMPLETION CERTIFICATE

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TABLE OF CONTENT

Serial Topic Name Page No.

No.

1. About the Company 6

2. Factory Profile - Classical Menswear Limited 7

2.1 Workflow 8

3. Department Study 9-55

3.1 Planning 9-10

3.2 Stores 10-12

3.3 CAD 13-14

3.4 Spreading & Cutting 15-20

3.4.1 Defect Analysis in Cutting Department 19-20

3.5 Sewing 21-42

3.5.1 Operation Breakdown of Trousers 23-31

3.5.2 Defect Analysis in Sewing Department 38-39

3.5.3 Line Efficiency 40-42

3.6 Finishing 43-44

3.7 Warehouse 44

3.8 Quality 45-47

3.9 Sampling 48

3.10 Human Resource 48-49

3.11 Maintenance 49-50

3.12 Safety 51-53

3.13 Health 53

3.14 Operator Training at ATC 53-54

3.15 IT 54-55

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4. Department Study conducted at Europa Garments Limited. 56-62

4.1 Technical Manufacturing Centre (TMC) 56-58

4.2 Merchandising 58-60

4.3 Product Laboratory Testing 60-61

4.4 Embroidery 61-62

5. Minor Project 63-75

5.1 BCDS Plan Tracking Format 63-66

5.2 Kanban Implementation in Sewing Section 67-72

5.3 Improvements in the Cutting Section 73-75

5.3.1 Ticketing Section 73

5.3.2 Fusing Section 73-74

5.3.3 Display Board in Cutting Section 74-75

6. Costing 76-77

7. Skill Matrix 78-83

8. Conclusion 84

9. List of Annexures 85-122

9.1 Annexure I : Organisation Structure 85

9.2 Annexure II: Spreading & Cutting 86-87

9.3 Annexure III: Time Study 88-97

9.4 Annexure IV: Order Tracking 98

9.5 Annexure V: CAD Evaluation 99-107

9.6 Annexure VI: Software Evaluation 108-112

9.7 Annexure VII: Plant Layout 113-119

9.8 Annexure VIII: Sampling Room Defects 120-122

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1.About the Company

Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd. (ABFRL), a division of the Aditya Birla Group—a
multinational conglomerate with interests spanning metals, cement, textiles, and
telecommunications—has a diverse portfolio of renowned brands. These include
long-standing names such as Van Heusen, Peter England, Allen Solly, and Louis Philippe, all
of which have been part of ABFRL for over 25 years. Additionally, Pantaloons offers a wide
range of private labels and licensed brands catering to men, women, and children.

ABFRL also manages Forever 21's operations in India, both online and offline, under its
network. Its international brand portfolio includes The Collective, featuring mono-brands like
Simon Carter, Ted Baker, Ralph Lauren, American Eagle, Fred Perry, and Hackett London.

In May 2015, ABFRL was formed from the consolidation of Aditya Birla Group’s branded
apparel operations, merging the Madura Fashion division and its subsidiaries—Pantaloons
Fashion and Retail (PFRL) and Madura Fashion & Lifestyle (MFL). The rebranding marked
the transition of PFRL to ABFRL. As a key component of the Aditya Birla Group, ABFRL
operates with a global workforce of over 187,000 across 41 countries, contributing to more
than 50% of the Group’s revenue.

ABFRL has demonstrated steady growth through expanding its brand portfolio, increasing its
retail footprint, and embracing online retail. As one of India’s largest branded apparel
companies, ABFRL faces competition from major players like Reliance Retail, Future Group,
and various international brands.

The company operates 11 units across Bangalore, Tamil Nadu, and Andhra Pradesh,
including:
● Crafted Clothing Ltd.
● Fashion Crafted Ltd.
● Classical Men’s Wear Ltd.
● Alpha Garments Ltd.
● English Apparel Ltd.
● Haritha Apparel Ltd.
● Little England Apparels
● Europa Garments Ltd.
● Mancheswar Apparels Ltd.
● Adithri Apparels Ltd.
● ABGL

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2.Factory Profile

Classical Menswear Limited was established on July 21, 1993, and is one of the oldest
manufacturing units within the group. The current general manager is Mr. Sunil Kumar CB,
with Mr. Aman Kumar serving as the factory manager and Mr. Lakshman as the production
manager. The company reports an annual turnover of ₹38.38 crores and handles both
domestic and international orders. The workforce comprises 21 male and 9 female
employees, along with 760 female and 185 male workers.

The unit specialises exclusively in trouser production, having shifted jacket manufacturing to
another plant. With a capacity of 2,800 pieces per day, the facility produces 6 to 7 styles of
men’s and women’s trousers across 8 sewing lines, with an additional line in progress.
Embroidery is outsourced to Europa, another Aditya Birla unit, with a turnaround time of
under 15 hours.

The plant manufactures trousers for brands including Van Heusen, Peter England, Allen
Solly, and Louis Philippe, and fulfils export orders for brands like Marks & Spencer and
Kohls. Lead time is usually around 10 days for washed garments and 8 days for non-washed
garments.

Fabric vendors include:

● Raymond’s
● Vardhaman
● Banaswara
● Auro Textiles
● Reliance Textiles
● Arvind Ltd.
● Nehar Enterprises
● Disha Clothing Pvt. Ltd.
● Balaji Knits
● Birla Advanced Knits Ltd.
● Durotex
● Madura Coats

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2.1 Factory Workflow

Fig 1: Workflow of Factory

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3.Department Study
3.1 Planning

The Head Central Planning is crucial for ensuring a successful production process. Led by
Mr. Sathish, the department comprises three personnel and operates based on the Brand
Commercial Demand Supply (BCDS) system. The BCDS provides detailed information on
style, quantity, and the "gold seal," which includes essential production details such as yarn
type, fabric type, GSM, trims required, and the machines to be used. The gold seal facilitates
communication within the manufacturing plant or between manufacturing partners, and each
style has a unique gold seal, though multiple styles may share one.

The department uses System Application Process (SAP) software to track product status via
production order numbers and dates, as well as to manage material documents.

SKU
SKU stands for Stock Keeping Unit, and inventory is organised by size in the warehouse.

OTIF
OTIF, or On Time In Full, measures whether orders are dispatched on schedule and in
complete quantity.

C2C
C2C stands for Code to Code.

Lead Time
Lead time is the total duration from order confirmation to dispatch, including the time from
work order release to shipment. Managing lead time effectively is essential for operational
efficiency, meeting customer expectations, and maintaining competitiveness.

Factors affecting lead time include:

● Supplier Performance: Efficiency and reliability of suppliers.
● Production Efficiency: Timeliness of the production process.
● Inventory Levels: Availability of raw materials and components.
● Transportation: Time required for logistics.
● Demand Fluctuations: Variability in customer demand.

Lead time types:

● Order Lead Time: Duration from placing an order with a supplier to receipt of
goods.
● Production Lead Time: Time required for manufacturing a product from start to
finish.

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● Delivery Lead Time: Time from when an order is ready for delivery to its arrival
with the customer.

Industry-specific lead times:

● Cutting: 2 days
● Sewing: 3 days
● Finishing: 2 days
● Warehouse: 1 day
● TECO: 1 day
● Washing: 1 day

GRN
Goods Receipt Note (GRN) is communicated through SAP software.

3.2 Stores

The department is headed by Mr. Venkatesh, and staffed by 12 personnel. It manages fabrics
and trims received from the central store, utilising 141 racks for fabric and 7 racks for trims.
It has a capacity to store 120,000 metres of fabric but currently holds 150,000 metres. Trims
include threads of 100s and 120s, as well as knitted zippers.

They use System Application Software (SAP) to track the status of both domestic and
international orders using work order numbers and specific codes (F003 and FE02). SAP
helps monitor reserved and unrestricted fabrics and trims.

The department is equipped with 2 fabric relaxing machines from Ramson’s Checkmate,
including one with an inbuilt inspection table and fabric rollers. Each fabric roll contains 100
metres of fabric, and the inspection table has a width of 90 inches. Fabrics are relaxed for 24
hours in preparation for the next day's release plan.

Shrinkage and shade variation samples are tested here. Samples for shrinkage tests are cut to
sizes of 15x15 cm or 35x35 cm, with observed shrinkage ranging from 0.1 to 1 cm.

They maintain a plan sheet that details the status of all raw materials, including line numbers,
style numbers, gold seals, and quantities. Fabrics from the central store are marked with a
seal on the face side to distinguish between face and back sides. The walls display caution
signs indicating stacking levels, and the department practises Kaizen, or continuous
improvement.

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Fig 2: Major Steps in Store Option

Release Plan
The Stores department operates based on a release plan prepared by the Planning department,
which includes details such as gold seals, styles, and lines.

Stock Transfer Order (STO)

The Stock Transfer Order is used for fabric procurement, generated with a fabric code and
required quantity.

Amendment
This process addresses any fabric shortages and is managed by the Stores department.

Bin Card
The Bin Card provides details about fabric rolls and their quantities.

TECO Confirmation
TECO Confirmation verifies whether all materials for a work order have been posted and
dispatched to the next section.

Bill of Materials (BOM)

The department checks that the gold seal matches the Bill of Materials and notes any required
corrections.

Standard Operating Procedure for Shrinkage Test

A 35x35 cm swatch is cut from the fabric roll, marked 8 cm from the selvage with a yellow
pen using the shrinkage paramount scale, and then washed, steamed, or pressed as needed.
After relaxing at room temperature (18°C) for 2 hours, the swatch is measured to determine
the shrinkage percentage, with warp and weft shrinkage typically ranging from 0 to 2 percent.

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Purchase Store
The department also handles purchasing machinery, maintenance equipment, housekeeping
tools, safety gear, and rubber mats. Requirements are submitted by the 20th of each month to
the central purchase team, with materials typically received within 2 to 3 days. Delays, if any,
are usually due to central accounts and department issues.Purchase requisition made by the
purchase team as follows:

Fig 3: Purchase Store Operations

PROBLEMS OBSERVED IN STORE

1. Insufficient storage space

2. More fabric is kept in the department than the specified capacity

3. Workers are unaware about the material information

4.Specific Area should be designated for label printing.

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3.3 CAD

The CAD department is led by Mr. KS Ravi. This department, staffed by two personnel,
begins its work upon receiving the production order from the Stores department.

The CAD department utilises Gerber software for marker making, and markers are printed
using a Richpeace printer. On average, 60-70 markers are produced daily.

The department handles three types of marker making: Centre Selvedge Variation (CSV),
Non-Centre Selvedge Variation (Non-CSV), and Side Selvedge Variation (SSV). Shade
variations are marked with A, B, C checks, and different markers are used for stripes and
solids. The department also indicates whether a pin table is required for the process. Quality
checking is performed internally within the department.

Marker efficiency for various fabrics is as follows:

1. Solid: 86-87%
2. Stripes: 84%
3. Checks: 82%

If fabric quantity is found to be insufficient during marker making, the department must seek
approval.

Color Code
Every three months, the CAD department undergoes an audit conducted by buyers or the
Head Office to ensure the accuracy of scales and tapes used. Equipment that passes the audit
receives a sticker for verification.
● BLUE: JAN-MARCH
● YELLOW: APR-JUNE
● GREEN: JUL-SEP
● RED: OCT-DEC

Working Process

● Receive Work Order and Swatches: Upon receiving the work order and swatches
from the Stores department, verify the gold seal number, and ensure the availability of
patterns and brands specified in the work order.

● Check Fabric Details: Confirm the fabric type (plain, stripe, or checks), width, and
repeat pattern as per the gold seal specifications.

● Prepare Ratio: Develop the ratio based on the quantity outlined in the work order.

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● Marker Preparation: Follow the gold seal model to place the parts for marker
making. Ensure parts are positioned for optimal efficiency, cross-check their
placement and direction, and save the marker.

● Calculate and Provide Details: Calculate the marker length and efficiency, and
provide the fabric consumption details to the Stores department.

● Review and Print Marker: Cross-check the soft copy of the marker, make
necessary modifications, and print the final marker.

● Roll Marker: Roll the marker in accordance with the work order and gold seal
number.

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3.4 Spreading & Cutting

The Cutting Department, headed by Mr. Kashi, employs 80 workers and operates based on
daily planning. A work order sheet is issued from CAD to the Stores and then to the Cutting
Department.

The department is equipped with 5 cutting tables and an additional table for pocketing, with
an output of approximately 5,000 pieces per day. Prior to cutting, any fabric shortages are
identified. Cotton fabrics are used in rolls, while other fabrics are relaxed for 8 to 24 hours
before cutting. Lay heights are set at 2.5 inches for formal trousers and 2 inches for casual
trousers.

The department utilises 12 straight knife cutting machines and 2 band knife cutting machines
from East Mad. Band knives are used for cutting waistbands, facings, and flies, while straight
knives handle larger panels. Lay paper is spread on tables for proper grip, and dividers are
used to manage shade variations between lays.

Cut panels are inspected, and an inspection report is created. Defective pieces are either recut
or rejected directly. After cutting, panels are numbered and bundled, with a bundle audit
conducted shortly afterward, resulting in a bundle audit report.

Fusing

The department operates 3 fusing machines: one Veit FM 10 for waistband fusing and two
Herbert Meyer machines for back pocket and fly fusing. The key parameters for fusing are
temperature, pressure, and speed. Three types of fusing are used:
● Stretchable fusing at 155°C
● Microdot fusing at 140-145°C
● Canvas fusing at 160°C

Fusing machines are checked twice daily for temperature and operational condition.

Dart Stitching

After attaching pockets and fly fusing, trouser panels are sent for dart stitching. These are
then bundled and stored in racks.

Worker Grading

The industry implements a worker grading system in the Cutting Department, assessing
performance every three months. The top three defects identified daily are posted on a board,
with common issues including improper fusing, dart stitching errors, and missing notches.

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The board also features a monthly summary of major defects, detailing their root causes,
corrective actions taken, preventive measures implemented, and the responsible personnel.

MACHINE SPECIFICATION

1. Band knife cutting machine

● Machine name -band knife cutting machine

● Company -East man
● Number of machines - 2
● Machine parts – machine head, cutting blade, bearing housing and grinding wheel
● Maintenance required- Cleaning, Lubricating, Tightening and Inspection.

The machine head and cutting blade has to be cleaned daily, the bearing housing has to be
cleaned weekly and grinding wheel has to be cleaned monthly

2. End cutter

● Machine name – End cutter

● Number of machines - 6
● Machine parts – End cap, Knife, Machine head and Reil.
● Maintenance required- Cleaning, Lubricating, Tightening and Inspection.

All the parts have to be cleaned daily.

3.Flatbed fusing

● Machine name- flatbed fusing machine

● Number of machines- 3
● Company name- Herber Meyer
● Machine parts- Bottom head, Controller,Top bed, Safety guard and Temperature
controller.
● Maintenance required- Cleaning, Lubricating, Tightening and Inspection.

All the parts have to be cleaned daily.

4.FUSING MACHINE

● Machine name-fusing machine

● Number of machines - 2

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● Company name -Veit FM 10

● Machine parts- Bottom belt, Top belt, Bearing Chain, Belt and tensioner and Roller
● Maintenance required- Cleaning, Lubricating, Tightening and Inspection.

Top belt, bottom belt and roller bearing have to be cleaned daily. Bearing and chain has to be
cleaned monthly. Belt tensioner has to be cleaned weekly.

LIST OF PPE REQUIREMENTS FOR DIFFERENT MACHINES

● Band knife machine -Metal gloves

● Straight knife machine -Metal gloves
● Ironing table -Rubber mat
● Standing employees – rubber mat
● Fusing machine – knit gloves (this has to be used at the collection point)
● Cutting operators – Dust protection marks

WORKER UNIFORMS

● Leaders- pink
● Quality-blue
● Normal workers-pista green
● Cleaning- dark blue
● Pregnant-yellow

PROBLEMS FACED IN CUTTING DEPARTMENT

● In the fusing area of the cutting department, it is mandatory to wear gloves for safety
purposes. But it has been observed that workers are not following the orders.
● Since the workers have to stand for a long-time, rubber mats are provided, but only a
few use them.
● Most of the fabric rolls are stacked near windows.
● Some of the tube lights are not working.

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● Although the bundles were labelled, they could get misplaced during transportation.
Hence, designated trays with particular sizes could be used to carry these bundles.
● Also, the racks which contained the bundles weren’t labelled properly which would
cause unwanted confusion.

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3.4.1 DEFECT ANALYSIS IN CUTTING DEPARTMENT

● Defect Analysis done for the Month of June:

Types of Defects Qty

W/B collar change 6
Back Panel Damage 52
W/B Damage 46
Front/Back Panel damage 21
W/B Missing 23
Loop Damage 60
Panel Damage 9
Back left/front damage 8

Types of Defect Qty

W/B Damage/ Back panel damage 3
Back panel missing 1
Back panel missing 15
Missing Panel 20
Front/Back panel Damage 4
Back panel Damage 15
Back panel Weaving 3
Panel Damage 30
Loop Damage 70

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Findings:

● Loop Damage is the highest reported defect with a total of 130 instances. This
indicates a significant issue that needs addressing to prevent recurrence.
● Back Panel Damage follows with a total of 67 instances, showing it is another
significant area for concern.
● Panel Damage totals 39, which is also a notable number that suggests a need for
improvement.
● W/B Damage and Front/Back Panel Damage have moderate counts with totals of
49 and 25 respectively, which should be monitored but are less severe compared to
the top two defects.
● W/B Collar Change and Back Left/Front Damage are on the lower end with totals
of 6 and 8 respectively, suggesting these are less frequent but still should be
considered in the overall defect management plan.

A display board is maintained in every department to analyse the performance of

5s,kaizen,production,defects,absenteeism,etc.

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3.5 Sewing

After cutting, the pieces are transferred to the Sewing Department, overseen by Mr.
Lakshman, the Production Manager. The department includes two senior supervisors and Mr.
Vishwa, the floor in-charge, with a total of 423 sewing operators.

The department operates under a Unit Production System (UPS) and is divided into 8 lines:
● Lines 1, 2, and 3: Men’s trousers and shorts for the domestic market
● Lines 4, 7, and 8: Export orders
● Lines 5 and 6: Women’s trousers

The daily production target is 600 pieces; however, the current output ranges from 500 to 550
pieces. Each line has a dedicated Quality Checker (QC), a roaming QC, and a supervisor. The
Quality Checker inspects defects on their specific line, while the roaming QC monitors all
operators. There are 36 floaters available who fill in for absentees and are trained in at least 5
operations. Floaters receive the same wage as regular workers.

The department uses a flag system to indicate:

● Yellow Flag: Change or new operator
● Red Flag: Critical to quality processes
● Blue Flag: Critical to product processes

An orange light serves as an alarm for quality issues, which are reported to the supervisor and
Quality Checker.

Dress Code:
● Light Green: Workers
● Green: Supervisors
● Yellow: Pregnant women
● Blue: QC
● Grey: Trainees
● Pink: L1 Leaders

Uniforms are provided primarily for women to prevent sarees and shawls from getting caught
in machinery.

Trouser Parts:
● Loop
● Waistband
● Side Pocket
● Fly Top
● Fly Bar Tack

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● Dart
● Seam
● Back Pocket
● Side Seam
● Bottom Seam
● Inseam

Measurement Tape Calibration:

Measurement tapes and scales are calibrated every three months due to potential changes
over time. To ensure accuracy, colour codes are used:
● Blue: January to March
● Yellow: April to June
● Green: July to September
● Red: October to December

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3.5.1 OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF TROUSER

3.5.1.1 BACK PART PREPARATION

Fig 4: Operations in Back Part Preparation

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3.5.1.2 FRONT PART PREPARATION

Fig 5: Operations in Front Part Preparation

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3.5.1.3 FRONT PANEL PREPARATION

Fig 6: Operations in Front Panel Preparation

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3.5.1.4 WAISTBAND PREPARATION

Fig 7: Operations in Waistband Preparation

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3.5.1.5 FLY PREPARATION

Fig 8: Operations in Fly Preparation

3.5.1.6 LOOP PREPARATION

Fig 9: Operations in Loop Preparation

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3.5.1.7 ASSEMBLY

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Fig 10: Operations in Assembly

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CRITICAL OPERATIONS

● Back pocket welting

● Main label attach
● Wash care label attach
● Size label attach
● Side seam
● Inseam
● Fly top
● Seat seam
● Waist band attach

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MACHINES USED IN SEWING DEPARTMENT

1. SNLS
● Machine type: single needle lock stitch machine
● Model name: Juki
● Needle type: DB * 1

Machine parts:

● Machine head
● Hand wheel
● Tension post
● Throat plate area
● Hook set
● PCB
● Solenoid
● Thread stand
● Table top
● Pedal and floor
● Finger guard
● Paddle mat
● Oil tank
● Needle holding screw

Maintenance required:

● Cleaning
● Lubricating
● Tightening
● inspection

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2. OVERLOCK
● Machine type- three thread overlock machine
● Machine make: Pegasus
● Needle type: DC*1

Machine parts:
● Machine head
● Looper set
● Throat plate area
● Table top
● Thread path and tension post
● Motor
● Thread stand
● Pedal and floor
● Paddle mat
● Oil tank
● Needle holding screw

Maintenance required:
● cleaning
● lubricating
● tightening
● inspection

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3.BARTACK

● Machine type – bar tack machine

● Model name: JUKI
● Needle type:DP*5

Machine parts:
● Machine head
● Hand wheel
● Tension post
● Throat plate area
● Hook set
● PCB
● Solenoid
● Thread stand
● Table top
● Pedal and floor
● Eye guard
● Paddle mat
● Oil tank
● Needle holding screw

Maintenance required:

● Cleaning
● Lubricating
● Tightening
● Inspection

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4. POCKET WELT

● Machine name: Welting machine

● Machine make: DURKOPPADLER
● Needle type: DP85

Machine parts:
● Machine head
● Hand wheel
● Tension post
● Carrier
● Hook set
● PCB
● Folder
● Thread stand
● Table top
● Corner knife
● Vacuum pipe
● Oil window
● Pedal and floor
● Needle holding screw

Maintenance required:

● Cleaning
● Lubricating
● Tightening
● Inspection

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PROBLEMS OBSERVED IN SEWING DEPARTMENT

● Worker absenteeism
● Frequent thread breakage in specific operations
● Slower output due to sudden change in operators
● No calibration for trimmers
● Dumping of panels on machine tables and plastic trays due to lack of trays.
● Operators are not maintaining their workplace properly
● The hourly production details are not filled on time
● Some of the machines do not have SOPs.
● Daily production details are not written on the white board.
● The stitching operators are getting up from their seat to collect the panels for stitching
thus interrupting the workflow
● Wherever the operator is stitching continuously there is no basket to collect the falling
pieces.

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3.5.2 DEFECT ANALYSIS IN SEWING DEPARTMENT

● Defect Analysis done for the Month of June:

Types of Defects Occurrence of Defects

Skip stitch 9
Incorrect label 4
Missing operation 7
Uncut thread 15
Broken stitch 11
Raw edge 2
Uneven 18
Puckering 4
High-low 6

● Defect Analysis done for the Month of July:

Types of Defects Occurrence of Defects

Skip stitch 15
Broken stitch 14
Missing operation 9
Uncut thread 16
Uneven 11
Puckering 3

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Findings:
● The defect analysis reveals a notable increase in several defect types from June to
July. For instance, "Skip stitch" occurrences rose from 9 to 15, "Uncut thread"
increased from 15 to 16, and "Broken stitch" grew from 11 to 14.
● This upward trend suggests potential issues with machine calibration or sewing
techniques that require immediate attention.
● A decrease in "Puckering" suggests some success in addressing this issue, but more
attention may be needed for other defects.
● The absence of "Raw edge," "Incorrect label," and "High-low" defects in July may
indicate improvements or changes in quality control practices.
● Increased occurrences of certain defects highlight the need for enhanced training,
machine maintenance, or procedural adjustments to improve overall quality.

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3.5.3 LINE EFFICIENCY

● Line Performance analysed for the month of June:

Line Efficiency for the month of June

Line Number L-1 L-2 L-3 L-4 L-5 L-6 L-7 L-8 L-9
No of defects to
EOL 17 12 8 9 18 7 12 7 10
No of defects to
Inline 16 17 10 7 13 14 13 10 31
97.01 97.55 98.58 98.49 96.54 98.11 98.27 98.73 96.44
EOL Efficiency % % % % % % % % %
INLINE 97.75 97.56 98.55 99.00 97.91 98.12 98.31 98.75 96.38
Efficiency % % % % % % % % %
No of operators
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
on red flag
Rank 7 6 3 1 8 5 4 2 9

● Line Performance analysed for the month of July:

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Line Efficiency for the month of July

Line Number L-1 L-2 L-3 L-4 L-5 L-6 L-7 L-8 L-9
No of defects to
EOL 19 8 16 10 16 9 10 8 16
No of defects to
Inline 17 14 12 8 18 10 16 12 0
96.43 97.62 97.58 98.33 96.78 98.19 98.53 98.83 97.59
EOL Efficiency % % % % % % % % %
INLINE 97.49 98.35 98.46 98.86 97.83 98.51 98.15 98.81 100.00
Efficiency % % % % % % % % %
No of operators
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
on red flag
Rank 9 7 6 3 8 4 5 1 2

Findings:
● Line L-8 improved its position from Rank 2 to Rank 1 with very high efficiencies in
both EOL and Inline stages.
● Line L-9 showed significant improvement in Inline Efficiency (from 96.38% to
100%) and moved up in rank (from 9 to 2).
● Lines L-4 and L-3 experienced a drop in rank despite maintaining high efficiencies,
indicating other lines improved significantly.
● Lines L-1 and L-2 experienced a drop in both EOL and Inline efficiencies and ranks.

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Apparel Industry Report

● Lines L-6 and L-7 showed some improvement in EOL efficiency but had mixed
results in Inline efficiency.

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Apparel Industry Report

3.6 Finishing

Mrs. Shalini is the head of the department. Since the industry lacks an in-house washing
facility, garments are sent to external washing centres. Orders are processed by Global
Washing Centre, Vivek Washing Centre, and Ramdan Washing Centre. Garments can
undergo various types of washes, including normal, soft, hard, enzyme, diamond, or
wrinkle-free. The cost is ₹12 for normal washes and ₹15 for other types per trouser.

Once the garments are washed and returned to the factory, they undergo a thorough
inspection. The next step is wrapping, performed using two wrapping machines from MMS
Button Fuse. Following this, form finishing is completed using the VEIT 8730 machine.

Ironing is categorised into five types:

● Side Seam Iron
● Parts Iron
● Legger Iron
● Topper Iron
● Touch Up Ironing

Domestic and export orders are handled separately. A final inspection checks for issues such
as oil stains, missing brand labels, open stitches, and missing bar tacks. Any necessary
alterations are assigned a token number and sent for modification. After alterations, a metal
brand label is affixed, and measurement auditing is conducted before the garments are sent to
the warehouse.

For production orders from Shahi Exports Ltd., heat seal labels are attached at a temperature
of 159°C.

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Apparel Industry Report

Fig 11: Operations in Finishing

3.7 Warehouse

The head of the department is Mr Vinod. It has a total of 28 employees. Blue crates are used
to store products of their own brand like louis Philippe, Allen Solly, peter England and van
hueson. Per day4500 pieces of trousers are packed here. Menswear sizes range from 28 to 42.
Womenswear sizes ranges from 26 to 38. For export order broken needle deduction machine
is used of the brand hashima. Garments are scanned and then placed into the crate to ensure
that no wrong garment is placed in the shipment. Each crate can hold up to 30 pieces. Each
carton box can hold up to 50 pieces.

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Apparel Industry Report

3.8 Quality
● The Quality Control Department, led by Mr. Balaji, comprises a team of 80 people
overseeing the quality assurance processes across various stages of garment
production.
● The department is responsible for inspecting an average of 5,500 garments per day in
the Cutting department, 4,400 garments per day in both the Sewing and Finishing
departments, and 3,800 garments per day in Dispatch/Warehouse.
● Each production line is supported by a dedicated roaming Quality Checker and two
additional checkers to ensure rigorous quality standards.
● The department has maintained a rejection rate of 0% over the past three months
(April to July).
● The Centre conducts specialised tests, including zipper rust testing, material testing,
and accessory and trims testing, to ensure the highest standards of product quality.
● Brand Quality Parameters:
○ Constant for in-house brands:
○ Welt length-14cm
○ Dart-8.5cm
○ Outseam-110cm
○ 5 loops for 30,32,34,36, 6 loops-38,40,42 size
○ Pocket opening - 14cm front
○ Pocket bag height and width uniform
○ SPI is constant - 12 to 14 cm/inch
○ Waistband style- kansai (single needle and double needle), kansai with elastic,
w/b using snls.
● Final Inspection Criteria
○ AQL LEVEL: 1 AND 2.5 for in-house brands and sometimes AQL- 4.

Lot Size Sample AQL 1 AQL 2.5

Size Men’s Woven - Men’s Woven -
Unwashed Trousers Trousers
(LP,VH.AS.PE Elite) (LP,VH,AS,PE), Knits

Major Minor Major Minor

Defects Defects Defects Defects
(AQL-1) (AQL-2.5 (AQL-2.5 (AQL-4)
) )

2 to 8 2 0 0 0 0

9 to 15 3 0 0 0 0

16 to 25 5 0 0 0 0

26 to 50 8 0 0 0 0

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Apparel Industry Report

51 to 90 13 0 0 0 1

91 to 150 20 0 1 1 2

151 to 280 32 0 2 2 3

281 to 500 50 1 3 3 5

501 to 80 2 5 5 7
1200

1201 to 125 3 7 7 10
3200

3201 to 200 5 10 10 14
10000

10001 to 315 7 14 14 21
35000

35001 to 500 10 21 21 21
150000

● Standard Operating Procedure for Trouser Inspection

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Apparel Industry Report

Fig 12 : Inspection Areas in a Trouser

Fig 13 : Inside Waistband

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Apparel Industry Report

3.9 Sampling

The industry does not have a large sampling facility. The sampling head is Mr. Suresh. The
department employs 3 personnels. Size set samples, pre-production samples and GPT
samples are made here.

Size set samples are a collection of clothes made in a variety of sizes (small, medium, large,
etc.) for the purpose of assessing the general appearance, fit, and construction of the clothing
across the size spectrum. These samples are useful for evaluating the fit and consistency of
each size that a product line offers.

Prototypes of a garment created before large-scale manufacture are known as pre production
samples. The identical materials, trimmings, and construction techniques meant for the final
production run are used to build these examples.

3.10 Human Resource

Human Resource Management (HRM) is a strategic approach focused on optimising

employee performance to achieve the company's goals. HRM encompasses the development
and implementation of policies and systems related to employee management, including
recruitment, training, performance reviews, benefits, and reward systems. It also addresses
industrial relations, compliance with legal standards, and collective bargaining agreements.

Mr. Anjanappa is the HR manager, overseeing the adherence to HR policies. Employees

receive benefits such as pensions, Employee State Insurance (ESI), gratuity, and Medi Assist.
Employment is limited to individuals over 18, with identity verified by an Aadhaar card.
Workers can continue employment until the age of 60 and earn ₹475.20 per working day,
with payment made monthly. Employees who complete 9 years of service are eligible for a
pension.

The industry recruits through self-volunteering or referrals. Prospective employees are

trained at the Advanced Training Centre (ATC) and classified into four categories: A, B, C,
and D. Categories A and B are selected as tailors, while category C individuals are hired as
helpers. Selection is based on efficiency, absenteeism, quality, and attitude.

Lunch is provided at a subsidised rate: ₹10 for workers and ₹20 for staff, with hostel
accommodation available for female employees.

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HR and a team visit nearby villages every Sunday to recruit new staff, distributing pamphlets
to generate interest. The industry does not implement a reservation policy but supports
differently-abled individuals, cancer patients, transgender individuals, and HIV-positive
persons. The identities of HIV-positive employees are kept confidential, known only to
authorised officials and the company doctor.

Workers are granted a one-hour grace period for lateness each month; any additional lateness
is deducted from their salary. Regular working hours are from 8 AM to 5 PM, but overtime is
frequently required. Workers receive double wages for overtime and must consent to
additional hours. The industry compensates for idle time during overtime.

Staff hiring is initiated when a shortage is identified. A job request form is submitted to the
central team for approval, followed by candidate evaluation and verification.

The company engages employees through various activities, including Family Day, festival
celebrations, and Freshers’ Day for new hires.

3.11 Maintenance

Mr. Rajesh leads the Maintenance Department, which employs 16 staff members and is
responsible for maintaining 1,200 machines across the facility. The department operates
under a self-maintenance model, with daily maintenance meetings held for six different
zones. Operators are required to clean the machines they use daily, a process that takes
approximately 15 minutes. Any abnormalities must be reported to the maintenance team.

New workers undergo induction programs featuring instructional videos on machine

handling, operation, and cleaning procedures. Each machine has a CLTI form (Cleaning,
Lubricating, Tightening, and Inspection) and a Zero-Breakdown Maintenance Report
(ZBMR) which uses smiley stickers to indicate months without breakdowns, and a + sign for
breakdowns. Machines also have a "Know Your Equipment" (KYE) card.

The department is developing an app called Grid, which will provide weekly maintenance
notifications. It also manages diesel storage, with a 100-litre capacity, and includes a
flame-proof pump where the motor and pump are separate. The department oversees three
compressors, two blowers, and one dryer, which separates moisture from the air. There are
two diesel generators (DG), one weighing 380 kg and the other 62.5 kg. An Annual
Maintenance Charge (AMC) is issued for each machine, with monthly checks and reports
generated.

Machine Categories:
● Critical Machines: Essential for factory operations; their failure halts the entire
factory. Includes DGs, boilers, compressors, sewage treatment plants, CAD plotters,
and fusing machines.

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Apparel Industry Report

● Semi-Critical Machines: Failure affects an entire production line. Includes feed-off

arms, welt pocket machines, and flat-lock machines.
● Normal Machines: Stoppage results in reduced production but does not halt
operations. Examples include SNLS machines.

Needle Policy:
The department implements a needle policy where broken needles are replaced only when
submitted by workers to prevent quality issues from needles accidentally getting stuck in
garments.

Budgeting:
The departmental budget is categorized into:
1. R&M - Repair and Maintenance
2. S&S - Stores and Space
3. P&F - Power and Fuel

Rainwater Harvesting:
The department also manages rainwater harvesting, with filters changed weekly during the
monsoon season.

Calibration:
The department is responsible for calibrating equipment, with 70 pieces of equipment
calibrated annually.

CLTI form (Cleaning, Lubricating, Tightening, and Inspection) and a Zero-Breakdown Maintenance Report
(ZBMR) for all machines.

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3.12 Safety

Safety Officer: Miss Bhavya

Compliance: In accordance with the Factory Act of 1948, a safety officer is appointed for
every 1,000 employees to oversee safety protocols.

Types of Hazards:
1. Physical Hazards: Includes poorly maintained equipment and workplace clutter, which
can lead to injuries. Regular maintenance and inspections are essential.
2. Ergonomic Hazards: Risks related to poor workstation setup and repetitive motions.
3. Chemical Hazards: Involves exposure to hazardous substances.
4. Electrical Hazards: Includes risks from electrical faults and equipment.

Unsafe Acts: Unsafe behaviours, such as neglecting safety protocols, heighten the risk of
accidents. Training and enforcement are crucial to prevent these actions.

Unsafe Conditions: Poorly maintained equipment and a cluttered work environment increase
injury risks. Regular maintenance and inspections are key for ensuring safety.

Near Misses: Incidents that almost result in accidents provide valuable insights into potential
hazards. Reporting and analysing near misses help prevent future accidents.

Accidents: Unplanned events, ranging from slips to machinery failures, can cause harm.
Effective safety measures and training are essential to prevent such incidents.

HIRA: Hazard Identification and Risk Assessment are conducted to identify and evaluate
risks.

Environmental Impact or Aspect:

● STP (Sewage Treatment Plant) water is recycled and used in washrooms.
● Measures are in place to minimize water usage and prevent land contamination.
● Biomass briquettes are used in the plant.
● The 'ReEarth' initiative focuses on Water, CSR, Green Building, Energy, Waste, and
Safety.

Audits and Drills:

● Annual Higgs audit.
● Fire drills are conducted every six months, and mock drills are held every two
months.
● Workers must assemble within three minutes during drills.

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● Firefighting equipment includes fire extinguishers, a fire hydrant system, sprinklers,

and fire alarms.
● Three emergency exits on each floor, with marked arrows for guidance in
emergencies.

Awareness Days:
● Road Safety: January 11th to 17th
● Safety Day: March 11th
● Environmental Day: June 5th
● Chemical Disaster Day: December 4th
● Fire Prevention Week: April 14th to 21st

Facilities:
● A medical room and first-aid kit are available, along with an ambulance.
● A creche is provided for children aged 6 months to 6 years.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):

● Metal Gloves: Band knife and straight knife machines
● Rubber Mats: Ironing tables
● Knit Gloves: Fusing machines
● Dust Protection Masks: Cutting operators
● Finger Gloves: Sewing machines
● Aprons & Helmets: Boilers
● Guards on sewing machines and ironing tables, heat-resistant mats for ironing tables,
and anti-skid tape on stairs.

Monitoring and Audits:

● 48 checklists and monthly audits.
● Luxmeter: Measures illumination, conducted every two months.
● Noisemeter: Measures sound levels; should not exceed 85 decibels, with 75-77
decibels for the cutting department.
● Annual health check-ups for all employees, including audiometry for maintenance
staff and immunizations for housekeeping staff.

Committees:
● POSH (Prevention of Sexual Harassment)
● Safety
● Transport
● Workers
● Canteen
In the Safety Committee, 50% of members are from the maintenance department and 50% are
workers.

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Environmental & Health Safety (EHS) Audit:

Conducted by a third party.

Incident Reporting:
● 24 Hours: Last Time Injury
● 48 Hours: Medical Treatment Injury
● 2-3 Days: Accidents
● 7 Days: Fire/Chemical Incidents

Recognition:
Monthly rewards for 5S, Kaizen, Safety, and Self-maintenance.

3.13 Health

The department has one doctor, Mrs Nalina Solen and one nurse. Whenever new trainees are
selected, they undergo a pre-employment medical checkup. Their training starts only when
they pass the checkup. They also have a periodic checkup for workers suffering from diabetes
and hypertension. The company also employs people suffering from HIV-AIDS. they are
mainly given work in the warehouse. The company also has workers suffering from breast
cancer they also undergo regular checkup here. The children in creche undergoes a checkup
every day. Awareness for their parents is also conducted.

The pregnant women are given milk and fruits at 10 AM every day. Needle accidents and
trimmer injury are the most common accidents. Till now no accident cases have been
reported due to cutting machines. First aid training is given to all workers. Mental health
counselling is given to needy workers. Severe cases require professional help for which the
company provides support.

3.14 Operator Training at ATC

School Training Includes the following:
● Medical Test
● Maths Test and Visual Test
● Machine Control
● Bag Test
● Lockstitch Trainability Assessment Test

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● Trainer’s checklist: Speed, Rhythm and Quality

● Inline Training
● Capacity Graph
● Cycle Time Sheet
● Performance Graph
● Operators are recruited through a bag test, with grades determining eligibility.
● Recruited operators practise foundational skills through Loop Exercises 1, 2, and 3.
● Operations are assigned based on the grades achieved in the bag test.
● Operators practise exercises specific to their assigned operations to build operational
skills.
● A target is set for each exercise, and operators continue practising until they reach the
target.
● After completing all exercises for their assigned operation, operators are given
production pieces.
● The operator's cycle time and performance are measured.
● Operators graduate to the production line when they achieve a performance level
above 80%.

3.15 IT
● No.of people working in the department: 1
● List of softwares used by the company:

Name of the Software Used for

Zoho CRM, project management, and business

applications

MS offices Word processing, spreadsheets,

presentations, etc.

MS Teams Team collaboration and communication

Azure Cloud services and infrastructure

Chrome Web browsing

7zip File compression and extraction

Mozilla Web browsing

Adobe PDF viewing/editing and Designing

Java Software development

VLC Viewing Media

Sentinelone Security and protection

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Apparel Industry Report

Grid Data management and processing

Power BI Business analytics and data visualisation

SAP Enterprise resource planning (ERP)

SCCM Systems management and software

deployment

Selfscan Document scanning and management,

Zscaler Cloud security and web filtering

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4. Department Study Conducted at Europa Garments Ltd.

4.1 Technical Manufacturing Centre

● Head: Mr Deepak
● No of members: 52 (24 staff and 28 tailors)
● Here, product development for different styles takes place.
● They develop proto samples, revise proto samples,fit samples and size set samples.
● Daily Output: 50 pcs/day
● Target: 100 pcs/day (They want to increase no of tailors)
● Types of Interlinings used: Fusible (Micro-dot and Tricot) and Non-Fusible.
● Their CAD department is using latest softwares like C6 CLO 6.2 which represents
patterns in 2-D & 3-D View and is head by Mr. Neeraj.
● Casual Shirt & Trousers sampling takes place here.
● Different Types of Samples are:
○ Salesman Sample: is a smaller, demo version of a product that salespeople
use to show customers what the real thing looks like and how it works before
they decide to buy it. It is made once every three months.
○ Photoshoot Sample: is a prototype of a product created to be photographed
for advertising or promotional purposes, showing how it looks in pictures
before it's fully produced and sold.
○ Proto Sample: is an early model of a product used to test its design and
functionality before mass production. It is reviewed by designers and the tech
department to make improvements and adjustments based on initial testing and
feedback. This helps ensure the final product meets quality standards and
customer expectations.
○ Fit Sample: is a prototype of a garment created to check its sizing, fit, and
proportions before mass production. It ensures the clothing meets design
specifications and fits well on different body types.
○ Fabric Trial Sample: is a small piece of fabric used to test its quality, texture,
and suitability for a specific purpose.
○ Wash Trial Sample: is a small piece of fabric or a garment that is subjected to
various washing and laundering tests to assess how it holds up against
repeated washing cycles.
○ Trims Trial Sample: is a small version of a product that includes all the extra
parts like buttons,zippers or other trims. It helps check if these parts work well
with the main product before making lots of them.
○ Wearer Trial Sample: is a prototype of a product used to test its comfort, fit,
and durability by individuals who will wear it. Around 10-12 samples are
tested.

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○ Size-Set Sample: includes garments in different sizes to verify the fit and
sizing consistency across a range of body types before bulk production.
○ Pre-Production (PP) Sample: is a test version of a garment made to ensure it
meets design and quality standards before bulk production.
○ TOP (Top-of-Production) Sample: refers to the first sample of bulk
production made using the exact same fabric and trims. This batch is typically
used to verify quality, fit, and durability before full-scale production begins.
○ The sequence for the sampling is as follows:

Fig 14 : Different types of Sampling

○ It varies for menswear and womenswear as following:

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Fig 15: Sampling for menswear and womenswear

4.2 Merchandising Department

● Head: Mr.Jay Dutta

● No.of employees: 30
● Marketing,Sourcing and Merchandising go hand in hand in this company.
● Marketing department deals with order procurement.
● Sourcing department deals with fabric and trims procurement.
● Merchandising department looks after the internal activities of the company and
makes sure that shipment is delivered on time to the buyer.
● In this unit, there are two types of merchandising - Export & Domestic
Merchandising.
● ABFRL has a prominent retail presence across the country and is one of the largest
apparel chains.
● Most of their brands are produced in-house and they also do export orders for buyers
like M&S, Eden Park, Marco Polo, Superdry,etc.
● Brand Commercial Demand Supply (BCDS) deals with their in-house brands. They
forecast demand and supply demand to their factories. It is handled by Madura
Fashion Limited.(MFL)
● The export orders are looked at by Europa Garments Limited.
● The lead time for export orders varies between 90 to 100 days where lead time for
production is 30-40 days.

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● Customer Profiling is done on the basis of: Brand Value, POS (Point of Sale), Online
Presence, SKUs & Stores Capacity and Financial Condition of the buyer.
● Most of the factories have the following compliance: SA800, Sedex, GOTS, OCS,
LEEDS Gold Certification, ISO 9001,14001 & 45001 and Higgs.
● Their Merchandising activities include the following activities: Customer, Planning,
Production,Third-party inspection & testing, Shipping and Finance.
● Their Third-Party testing is done by labs like Intertake,SGS and TUV.
● Garment Package Test is done to check the performance of a garment against
parameters like colour fastness,perspiration,seam strength,tensile
strength,shrinkage,etc. It is checked in the Product Laboratory Lab.
● Defects can be classified as:
○ Major: The aesthetic/functional flaws which can depreciate the garment’s
value or saleability.
○ Minor: The defects which don’t have much impact on the saleability of the
garment.
○ Critical: The defects which could be considered as a health hazard.
Eg: Traces of broken needle in garment

● The company has a Free-On Board policy with buyers which means it is the
company’s responsibility till the shipment is loaded on the vessel.
● The company offers different types of payment options:
○ LC (Letter of Credit): a financial document issued by a bank that guarantees
payment to a seller once specified conditions (like shipment of goods) are met,
reducing risk for both buyer and seller.
○ Open Credit: a payment arrangement where goods are shipped and payment
is expected at a later date, typically under agreed-upon terms between the
buyer and seller.
○ PAD (Payment Against Document): payment method where a buyer receives
documents from the seller and makes payment upon presentation of these
documents, ensuring compliance with agreed terms
● The sequence is as follows:

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Apparel Industry Report

Fig 16: Sequence of Shipment Dispatch

4.3 Product Testing Laboratory

● Head: Mr Saravana
● No.of Members: 14 people
● Daily Capacity: 80 pcs/day
● They use the LIMS (Laboratory Information Management System) Software to record
and store their data.
● Physical Conditions of Lab: Temperature - 21 Degree Celsius (+/- 1) and Relative
humidity - 65% (+/-2%)
● Performance Oriented Testing done here.
● The sample has to pass all 14 parameters in order to pass the test:
○ Fabric Weight
○ Colour Fastness to Laundry
○ Colour Fastness to Water
○ Colour Fastness to Perspiration
○ Colour Fastness to Rubbing
○ Dimensional Stability
○ Appearance after wash
○ Tear Strength
○ Seam Strength
○ pH Tesh
○ Pilling Test
○ Durable press
○ Martindale pilling
○ Soap Test
○ Pile retention

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● On the first day, the sample is prepared by leaving the sample idle for 4 hours in order
to get rid of moisture content.
● On the second day, a series of tests are conducted on the sample.
● On the third day, the findings are compiled and a report is generated and it is
determined whether the sample passed or failed.
● List of machines in the Dry Lab:
○ SDL Atlas Tear Strength
○ ICI Pilling Test
○ Universal Tensile Strength
○ Ramp Button Attachment Tester
○ GSM Cutter
○ Paramount Crockometer (to asses colour fastness by rubbing)
○ Amith Garment Services pH meter.
● List of machines in the Wet Lab:
○ Ramp Washometer (to asses colour fastness by laundry)
○ Washing machines (Brands - Whirlpool & SDL Atlas)
○ Ramp Hot Air Oven
● Super Vision Z Colour Assessment Cabinet is used to assess colour fastness &
Premier Pilling View Cabinet is used to assess pilling.

4.4 Embroidery

● Head: Mr Senthil
● Area: 480 sq ft
● No of members: 58
● No of Machines: 3
● Make/Model: Barudan BE*34918
● No of pieces done per day: 3500 pcs/day
● Thread type: Tkt No- 180s,220s,300s and 420s and Material - Polyester,Silk and Tera.
● Needle Type: DX5 (9 Colours & cylinder bed)
● Different types of Embroidery: Badges, Logo Embroidery,Embossing, Applique,etc
● Defect rate: Below 0.5%
● Process:
○ Points are marked on the desired part which comes with a bundle tag.
○ The part is then placed inside the frame.
○ The frame is placed under the heads of the machine, where embroidery takes
place.
○ Then trimming and checking takes place.
○ In case of appliques, the lining is carefully removed from the back and then
checked.

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○ In case of alteration, there is one sewing machine room present and there is a
sampling room with 1 machine also there.
● Workers were observed wearing ear plugs for safety.
● Defects in Embroidery:
○ Placement Wrong
○ Embroidery Slant
○ Loose Thread
○ Thread Shrinkage
○ Bobbin loose thread
○ Bobbin thread tight
○ Damage
○ Shape Out/Power Cut
○ Incomplete stitch
○ Puckering
○ Wrong Design
● Denser the embroidery, lesser is tkt no for thread.

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5. Minor Project
5.1 BCDS Plan Tracking Format

● BCDS (Brand Commercial Demand Supply) is responsible for providing the factory
with detailed production orders and schedules well in advance.
● Their role includes forecasting demand for both new and existing styles and planning
the production timeline for gold seals.
● The planning department receives the BCDS plan approximately one month before
production begins. This allows them to assess whether the factory has enough
capacity to meet the upcoming orders.
● Once the production order is confirmed, it becomes the responsibility of the store
department to ensure that all required fabric and trims are available in-house before
bulk production starts.
● Fabric and trims are sourced from the Central store, which handles procurement for
all units within the organisation.
● Generally, once the work-order is created the fabric and trims should be in-house
within 2-3 days.
● In order to track the status of fabric and trims in-house and sequence of production, a
format in excel sheet was developed.
● It aims to improve communication between the Planning and Store departments. This
initiative aims to prevent production delays by enhancing coordination and ensuring
timely availability of materials.

STEP 1 : ANALYSING JULY RECO PLAN

● Analyse July Reco Plan provided by the BCDS to the factory and take a note of work
orders scheduled for july.

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STEP 2 - CO-ORDINATE WITH PLANNING DEPARTMENT

● After checking with the Planning Department, enter data into the format.

STEP 3 - REGULARLY KEEP CHECKING WITH THE STORE DEPARTMENT

AND REPORT IF THE FABRIC/TRIMS NOT RECEIVED ON TIME.
● After checking with the Planning Department, enter data into the format.

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STEP 4 - CHECK WITH IE DEPARTMENT REGARDING LINE SEQUENCE AND

REPORT BACK IF THERE ARE ANY CHANGES.
● After checking with the IE Department, verify the sequence and report back the
changes.

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Apparel Industry Report

STEP 5 - ANALYSE THE SEQUENCE/WORK ORDER CHANGES

● After analysing the reasons for sequence changes in the production line it was found
that:
○ SC (Simon Carter) Orders were removed from line 1, leading to the
advancement of other gold seals in the sequence.
○ LYTFG0065SL was moved from line 2 to line 9 because the same gold seal
was already being processed on line 2, reducing style change downtime.
○ LYTFG0220SL was shifted from line 3 to line 8 due to the cancellation of
export orders on line 8 and no pending work orders for the next 15 days.
○ Gold Seal AHTFG0339RG was relocated to line 6, while AHTPG0433PZ was
shifted to line 5 due to manpower issues; the style did not match the operators'
skills.
○ Similarly, VWTFG0238TR moved from line 5 to line 6, and VWTFG0460RG
shifted from line 6 to line 5 as these styles were not suitable for their original
lines.

To avoid confusion, it is recommended that the store department regularly update in-house
dates, and the production & planning department adjust the line sequence accordingly. Also,
this format should be reviewed in weekly meetings in-order to ensure the work order is being
executed timely.

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5.2 Kanban Implementation in Sewing Section

● Kanban Board is a visual management tool used to control and improve workflow.
● The aim of Kanban Board is to help identify WIP (Work In-Progress) between parts
and assembly process in sewing lines and also to track over production and
over-processing for each part.
● PDCA (Plan-Do-Check-Act) Methodology was used for execution.
● Step 1 - Track and keep a record of the Work Orders and their respective gold seals,
bundles and quantity.
● Step 2 - Set up a kanban board and track the progress with the help of the supervisor.
If the sewing for the particular part is completed mark it green or else mark it red.
● Step 3 - Monitor the results for a week and see if there is a significant improvement
and record them.

Before Kanban Implementation

● The WIP in the assembly line is monitored accurately, but the Parts WIP was not
being monitored accurately.
● Although, parts operators were supposed to report the no.of bundles being done in an
hour but most operators were not reporting it timely or due to lack of literacy.
● Also, some operators would often work on bundles from different gold seals at the
same time which is difficult to comprehend from the book.

After Kanban Implementation

● Parts WIP was not being tracked but with the help of a visual board they can see the
status of parts as well as assembly.

Approach 1: Track Parts using Bundle Kanban Board

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Fig 15 : Format for Bundle Kanban Board

● The supervisor is supposed to keep track of each and every bundle and report it
manually on the board with the help of tokens. ‘Red’ indicates the bundle is not
completed while ‘Green’ indicates that the bundle is completed.
● It was easier to track the bundle and keep a check with the help of bundle kanban.
● It was observed that the fly part was having higher WIP as compared to other parts.
While, the operator doing the front panel has lesser efficiency as compared to other
operators.
● The work order going on line 2 finished within a day and rework order was going on
in the remaining hours.Also, the parts for line 2 was finished one day prior.
● Although bundle kanban improved transparency it was a time-consuming task as the
supervisor had to continuously update the board.
● So, maintaining a work order wise kanban seemed more practical.

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● The following results for Parts WIP interpreted from the Bundle Kanban Board:

Approach 2: Track Parts using Work-Order Wise Kanban Board

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Fig 16 : Format for Work-Order Wise Kanban Board

● The supervisor is supposed to track parts work-order wise instead of bundle-wise and
report it manually on the board with the help of tokens. ‘Red’ indicates the bundle is
not completed while ‘Green’ indicates that the bundle is completed.
● Also, updates the no.of trousers made by the end of the day.
● Work-Order wise kanban board is easier to maintain by the supervisor as it requires
lesser effort and gives clear indication which part gets completed early or late.

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5.2.1 Proposed Trimmer Calibration

● This system seems to help track the usage of trimmers based on how many times they
have been sharpened, which is likely important for maintaining their effectiveness and
ensuring consistency.
● Green Color Code: The trimmer has been sharpened once.
● Blue Color Code: The trimmer has been sharpened twice.
● Red Color Code: The trimmer has been sharpened thrice or more.

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5.3 Improvements in the Cutting Section

5.3.1 Ticketing Section

● In the ticketing section, both numbered and unnumbered panels were being kept
together at the same table which caused unwanted confusion.
● Placing two trays labelled with numbered and non-numbered panels will separate the
panels and avoid confusion.

Before Implementation

After Implementation

5.3.2 Fusing Section

● The parts for fusing were kept on the numbering table and therefore the panels were
sometimes misplaced.

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● Designated trays for fusing would avoid misplacement of fusing panels and reduce
effort and time.

Before Implementation

After Implementation

5.3.3 Display Board in Cutting Section

● A display board was installed near the laying table which showcased details regarding
the current work order going on, number of lays, number of plies, number of pieces
cut and whether spreading or cutting has been complete or not. It establishes a clear
communication within the department.

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6.Costing

The total cost for producing one trouser amounts to ₹822.92. This total comprises ₹485.61 for
fabric, which includes main and pocketing fabrics as well as fusing; ₹48.56 for trims,
including labels, buttons, zippers, and other small components; and ₹175.76 for
manufacturing costs, covering labour and overheads. Additionally, ₹113.99 is allocated for
selling expenses, including sampling, dormancy, working capital, and other related costs.
This detailed breakdown provides a clear overview of all the expenditures involved in the
production process.

COST SHEET
IMPO
CONSUM PRICE PER WAS FREI RT TOTAL
PTION/QT METER/UNIT TAG GHT( DUT PRICE
TOPIC Y (INR) E INR) Y (INR)
FABRIC
Main Fabric: 97%
Cotton & 3%
Spandex-255 GSM 1.23 metres 300 5% 5 392.45
Pocketing Fabric: 100%
Cotton - 150 GSM 0.51 metres 140 5% 5 79.97
Tricot/Canvas Fusing 0.06 metres 130 5% 5 13.19
Prime Cost 485.61
TRIMS
Main Label 1 3 5% 3.15
Size Label 1 1 5% 1.05
Care Label-Satin 1 1 5% 1.05
Button-28L 1 0.69 5% 0.7245
Button-24L 1 0.61 5% 0.6405
Hook & Bar 1 1 5% 1.05
Zipper-YKK 1 7 5% 7.35
Sewing Thread- 100Tkt
No Spun Polyester for
SNLS
Sewing Thread- 120Tkt
No Spun Polyester for INR 120 per 3000
Overlock 270 metres meters 5% 11.34

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Ascolite thread for button

wrapping 2 5% 2.1
Hanger & String 1 10 5% 10.5
Polybag 1 8.32 5% 8.736
Polybag Sticker 1 0.83 5% 0.8715
Total Trims Cost 48.5625
MANUFACTURING COST
CHE
MICA TOTAL
Cost/min SMV L OH COST
C&M 5.67 28 158.76
Normal
Washing Wash 12
Embroidery Logo 5
Total Manufacturing
Cost 175.76
Selling Expenses
Sampling 6.5
Dormancy 2% 14.19865
56.79458
Working Capital 8% 4
Overheads(Electricity,Re 35.49662
nt,etc) 5% 5
Total Cost for 1 Trouser 822.922359

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7. Skill Matrix

● The skill-matrix of operators analysed for the month of August is as follows:

SM
ID
V Ac Qua Qua
Criticali SM Nu Lin Operator
Present Operations TA tua dran dran
ty V mbe e-1 Name
RG l t Per t
r
ET

FACING ATTACH TO 200

0.3 15
FRONT POCKET LINING( 165 1 202 Lin NEEELAM
6 0
SCR R&L) 91% 84 e-1 MA MALI
200
0.4 12
FRONT POCKET BAG TOP 144 2 223 Lin MEENAKS
2 0
SCR STITCH 84% 24 e-1 HI
200
0.6
LABEL PATCH ATTACH TO 88 80 1 208 Lin MANGAL
8
SCR FRONT PKT LINING 91% 36 e-1 A
SUNITA
200
0.3 15 BHIMAPP
154 1 215
9 0 Lin A
06
NCR DART IRON & FLY IRON 98% e-1 TALAWAR
LIDIYA
0.2 16 200 SHANKUN
240 4
5 0 207 Lin THALA D
NCR PATCH IRON 67% 77 e-1 S
200
0.4 12
130 1 218 Lin VIKASH
6 5
CR BACK POCKET WELTING 96% 34 e-1 KUMAR
200 RITA
0.4
BACK POCKET WELT 129 90 3 209 Lin MAHAKU
7
NCR IRON 70% 93 e-1 D
200
0.6
BACK POCKET DOWN 90 70 3 207 Lin YASHODH
7
SCR EDGE STITCH 78% 75 e-1 A

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200
0.3 15
200 3 206 Lin MAMATH
0 0
SCR BK PKT BONE SEW 75% 34 e-1 A M C
200
0.3 15
162 1 209 Lin RITA DEVI
7 0
SCR SEAT SEAM PIPING 93% 36 e-1
200
0.4 12
145 2 216 Lin
1 5
SCR BACK POCKET BH 86% 28 e-1 DIPA DAS
WAISTBAND TOP STITCH 200
0.7
& WAISTBAND READY 85 80 1 209 Lin RINKI
1
SCR STITCH 95% 63 e-1 NAIK
200
0.7
LOADING OF FRONT & 79 75 1 207 Lin
6
NCR BACK PANELS 95% 22 e-1 GEETHA
FRONT POCKET ATTACH 200
0.6
WITH TOP STITCH / BONE 89 80 1 206 Lin MAMATH
8
SCR SEW ( RIGHT) 90% 31 e-1 AMMA K
FRONT POCKET ATTACH 200
0.6
WITH TOP STITCH / BONE 92 80 2 177 Lin
5
SCR SEW ( LEFT) 87% 04 e-1 DEVAKI
FRONT POCKET EXN 200
0.7
LINING SEW & CROTCH 76 75 1 201 Lin PUSHPA
9
SCR PC READY 98% 75 e-1 DEVI
200
0.7
FRONT & BACK D 80 75 1 215 Lin
5
SCR BARTACK 94% 16 e-1 REKHA
200
0.7
BACK POCKET LINING 86 75 2 219 Lin SEEMA
0
SCR (EC) 87% 68 e-1 UIKEY
200
0.7
BACK POCKET FINISH ( 77 75 1 222 Lin
8
SCR INVISIBLE STITCH) 97% 07 e-1 RAMBHA
200
0.8
BACK POCKET BAG 75 70 1 226 Lin
0
SCR TOPSTITCH 93% 98 e-1 SADIA
200
0.3 14
154 1 207 Lin SAPNA
9 0
SCR SHAPE O/L 91% 57 e-1 SHARMA
200
0.5 107 80 3 229 Lin GOURAM
SCR SIDE SEAM STAY STITCH 6 75% 46 e-1 MA

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200
0.7
80 75 1 224 Lin VIKRAM
5
HCR SIDE SEAM 93% 74 e-1 KUMAR
200 VULLAVA
0.6
90 75 2 228 Lin LLA
7
CR INSEAM 5TH OL 84% 38 e-1 SARADA
LEFT & RIGHT FLY 200
0.7
ATTACH TO PANEL + SIZE 83 75 1 215 Lin EMLEN
2
CR LABEL ATTACH TO FLY 90% 68 e-1 GAGRAI
CROTCH SEW & EXTN 200
0.4 10
STITCH NEAR FRONT 143 3 209 Lin SOMANAG
2 0
CR POCKET BARTACK 70% 50 e-1 OWDA
200
0.8
71 70 1 208 Lin INDAL
5
CR WB LOOP ATTACH 99% 58 e-1 BHARTI
200
0.5
105 70 4 222 Lin KAMALA
7
CR WB KANSAI 67% 38 e-1 MMA
200
0.7 79 70 2 218 Lin SHILA
NCR WB STITCH REMOVE 6 89% 39 e-1 DEVI
200
0.6
WAIST BAND EXTN SEW 92 70 3 203 Lin TARIK
5
CR AND TURN 76% 95 e-1 KHAN
FLY TOP STITCH + 200
0.5
CROTCH PCS/WCL 114 90 3 204 Lin SHREENID
3
HCR ATTACH 79% 26 e-1 HI N
200
0.6
90 75 2 202 Lin SUMA
7
CR SEAT SEAM 5 th o/l 84% 77 e-1 HARISH
200
0.1 15
SCR RIGHT FLY LINING 316 5 188 Lin SUJATHA
9 0
CLOSE+ WB BLIND HEM 48% 22 e-1 MMA K S
200
0.7
CR 86 65 3 229 Lin SUSHILA
0
WB EDGE FINISH 76% 65 e-1 KUMARI
LOOP DOWN BARTACK & 200
0.8
METAL INSERT TO WB 71 70 1 224 Lin
4
SCR LOOP + FLY & CROTCH 98% 81 e-1 KRSHNA
LOOP TOP BARTACK & 200
0.8
METAL INSERT TO WB 71 70 1 226 Lin NAGAMM
4
SCR LOOP + FLY & CROTCH 98% 02 e-1 A

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200
0.4
142 90 4 210 Lin HEMAVAT
2
SCR WB BH (2)+SPOTTACK 64% 57 e-1 HI
WB B/S, RT FLY B/S 200
+BACK POCKET BS, 0.6 88 70 3 220 Lin PHULLA
SCR EXTRA BUTTON SEW 8 79% 04 e-1 MAJHI
200
0.8
67 60 2 229 Lin SHAMAA
9
HCR BOTTOM FOLDING 89% 25 e-1 TAJ
200
0.9
65 40 4 206 Lin
2
NCR TRIMMING 61% 98 e-1 LAKSHMI
200
0.9
65 40 4 204 Lin KABERI
2
NCR TRIMMING 61% 95 e-1 MALLIK
200
0.3 11
167 4 214 Lin LALITA
6 0
SCR WB MARKING 66% 35 e-1 DEVI
200
0.7
79 70 2 229 Lin PRIYA
6
SCR WB STITCH REMOVE 89% 55 e-1 BARMAN
200
0.7
CR 80 70 2 210 Lin ALIM
5
SIDE SEAM TOPSTITCH 88% 17 e-1 MOLLA
200 JAYANTHI
0.7
BACK DART (DOUBLE 79 70 2 189 Lin LOGANAT
6
SCR DART ) 89% 78 e-1 HAN

Total
46 Competency %
Manpower
Total
138 300%
Competency
QUADRANT DETAILS

Quadrant no. Quadrant Description No. of operator % of operator

1 (>90%) 18 40%
2 (80 to 90 ) 11 24%
3 (70 to 80) 9 20%
4 (60 to 70) 6 13%

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5 Below 50% 1 2%
TOTAL 45 100%

SM
Per All Act Sta En
Present ID V Qu
Sectio Operator SM Act for oca Nat ion rt d Sta
Operation Numb TA adr
ns Name V ual ma tio ure pla dat dat tus
s er RG ant
nce n n e e
ET
RIGHT
FLY
LINING
Asse 0.1
CLOSE+ 150 5
mbly 9
WB Tra Yet
BLIND 200188 SUJATHA ine to
HEM 22 MMA K S 316 0% 1 e start
LIDIYA
SHANKU 0.2 Tra Yet
Parts 160 4
PATCH 200207 NTHALA 5 ine to
IRON 77 DS 240 0% 0.5 e start
Tra Yet
Asse 0.5
WB 200222 KAMALA 70 4 ine to
mbly 7
KANSAI 38 MMA 105 0% 1 e start
WB BH Tra Yet
Asse 0.4
(2)+SPOT 200210 HEMAVA 90 4 ine to
mbly 2
TACK 57 THI 142 0% 1 e start
Tra Yet
Asse 0.9
TRIMMIN 200206 LAKSHM 40 4 ine to
mbly 2
G 98 I 65 0% 1 e start
Tra Yet
Asse 0.9
TRIMMIN 200204 KABERI 40 4 ine to
mbly 2
G 95 MALLIK 65 0% 1 e start
WB Tra Yet
Asse 0.3
MARKIN 200214 LALITA 110 4 ine to
mbly 6
G 35 DEVI 167 0% 1 e start

● High Performers: 40% of operators are performing above 90% of the target,
demonstrating strong competency.
● Moderate Performers: 24% of operators are in the 80-90% range, requiring targeted
training to reach higher performance levels.
● Improvement Needed: 20% of operators are performing between 70-80%, indicating
a need for focused improvement efforts.

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● Low Performers: 13% are in the 60-70% range, requiring intensive training and
frequent performance reviews.
● Critical Issue: 2% of operators are performing below 50%, necessitating immediate
intervention and retraining.

Action Needed:
● Implement training and development plans to address the needs of lower-performing
operators.
● Recognize and support high performers to maintain and enhance their effectiveness.

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8.Conclusion

● Process Optimization: Learned the importance of efficient production planning and

management to ensure timely production.
● Lean Practices: Observed the application of lean practices to minimise waste,
streamline processes, and enhance overall efficiency.
● Technology and Training: Identified the need for up-to-date training and technology,
especially in areas like CAD, to enhance operational efficiency.
● Interdepartmental Coordination: Highlighted the value of seamless communication
and data sharing between departments to avoid delays and boost productivity.
● Quality and Safety: Observed strict quality control and safety measures, reflecting
the company's commitment to high standards and employee well-being.
● Sustainability: Noted the company's efforts in environmental sustainability, including
rainwater harvesting and minimising water usage.

The internship provided essential insights into apparel manufacturing and reinforced the need
for continuous improvement and adaptability in the industry.

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9.ANNEXURES

9.1 ANNEXURE I - ORGANISATION STRUCTURE

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9.2 ANNEXURE II - SPREADING AND CUTTING

● Study for Fabric 1:

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● Study for Fabric 2:

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9.3 ANNEXURE III - TIME STUDY

● Operation Name: Back Pocket Finishing

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● Operation Name: Inseam

● Operation Name: Side Seam

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● Operation Name: Seat Seam Topstitch

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● Operation Name: Flytop

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● Operation Name: Size Label Attachment

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● Operation Name: Wash Care Label Attachment

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● Operation Name: Waistband

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● Operation Name: Belt Loop Attachment

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● Operation Name: Bottom Piping

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9.4 ANNEXURE IV - ORDER TRACKING

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9.4 ANNEXURE V - CAD EVALUATION

Apparel CAD Evaluation format

Section a
QUESTIONNAIRE

SEGMENT – I (ORGANIZATION)

i. Which Cad system is being used in your organization? Gerber

ii. When was the CAD system being implemented in your organization?
● Before 5 years
● 3-5 years
● 1-3 years
● less than 1 year

iii. How many times has the organization upgraded the CAD software or installed / changed
to a new one ?
● Once
● Two - five times
● Almost every year
● Whenever required

SEGMENT – II (PURPOSE)

i. Is CAD easier than traditional methods?

(a) User’s point of view: Yes, not only is it systematic and can make automatic
markers, it can also include fabric shrinkage in the marker. It's very helpful.
(b) Your point of view: With some training, anyone can excel at CAD and it way
more easier,convenient and faster than traditional methods.

ii. For what purpose/s is the CAD system being used? (Can be more than one)
● Only for pattern making
● For digitizing the patterns provided by buyer’s
● Marker planning
● Alterations in patterns
● Grading
● Other’s

iii. Does CAD result in greater productivity, is it more lucrative?

(a) Yes
(b) If no,
why?__________________________________________________________
SEGMENT – III (GENERAL)

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i. Do you feel that CAD is affordable?

● Yes
● No
● Cant say

ii. Are traditional skills required to work on CAD?

Please Comment: Prior knowledge of traditional pattern making is required to work

on CAD.

iii. Are experienced pattern makers (who manually developed patterns and markers) easily
accepting the extensive use of CAD / CAM?
● Yes
● No
● Sometimes

iv. Is the combination of an individual readily available who is an expert in CAD / CAM
and pattern making?
● Yes, always
● No, sometimes
● Rarely

SEGMENT- IV (TRAINING)

i. Was any training imparted to the operator when the new soft-ware was installed?
● Yes
● No
● If yes, then for how many days?
- Less than 7 days
- 7-15 days
- More than 15 days
ii. Are you satisfied with the training given?
● Yes
● No
● If no, please specify the reason?
- Training should be of longer duration
- Language problem
- Any other __________________________

iii. Do you think that training is only required when a new software is installed or do you
recommend an in-house training otherwise as-well?
● Training every year or 6-months
● Only when a software is installed

iv. Do you think that the person working on CAD / CAM should be well versed in Pattern
and Marker development or should he have fair knowledge about textile and styling
as-well?

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Please Comment:
They should have a fair knowledge about the fabric as well as pattern making as it
will help them construct patterns accurately and decide the right marker.

SEGMENT – V (PEOPLE INVOLVED)

i. How many people are working in the pattern development and marker making
department? 4
Please specify, (approx.) : 3 in Pattern Making & Marker Making and 1 for
Checking.
ii. Has the number changed (increased / decreased) with the usage of CAD?
● Reduced
● Are the same
● Can’t say
iii. What is the age of person working on CAD?
● 20-25 yrs.
● 25-35 yrs
● Above 35 yrs.
iv. Does he have any prior work experience on CAD?
● Yes
● No
● If yes, then how many years?
- 1 yr.
- 1-2 yrs
- More than 2 yrs. (10 years)

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Section B
The following factors have been identified to have an influence on adoption
of CAD / CAM.
(Kindly select the most appropriate option)
Factors influencing adoption Strongly Moderate Indiffere Moderate Strongly Can’t
of IT positive ly positive nt ly negative say
negative
High Price

Reduces dependence on people

Failed installation in other

organization

Collaborative working between

various employees, supplier and
buyer is easier

Ability of supplier to train the

users in our organization

Saves fabric

The supplier does not have an

office in the location where my
organization is situated

Improves first pass quality

product

Reduces throughput time for

product assemble

Requirement of constant training

Ready availability of literate

professionals

Constant up gradation of system

required

Others please specify-----------

Section C

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This sheet will help you decide which system is best for your pattern
development department and organization. ( Even if you have one. )
Note: Simple instructions to fill in the form.
● Mention the various CAD / CAM systems you are aware of in (*) columns
● In the row below, mention how each of these systems came to your knowledge,
whether through your institute, buyer’s, pattern maker, the respective company, fairs
and exhibitions or some journals etc.
● Mention the CAD system under the evaluating points of 1-7.evaluate by giving score
of 1-7 where 1 stands for best and 7 for the least.
● Same number maybe given for more than one company if the features are felt to be
the same. The company scoring the minimum score as per your requirements should
be your choice for buying the CAD system.
● In the last column, kindly mention the basis of your evaluating criteria. For ex., if you
have give 1 to a particular system and 3 to the other, kindly mention who / why you
made the decision.

Criteria Gerber Lectra Modaris Tukatech Source

How you found Company Institute Exhibition
out about them
Communication 2 3 4
s-digitizers and
file import
Piece geometry 2 2 4
identifications(p
oints, lines,
notches,
orientations
lines, piece
rotation line for
marker making)
Pattern design 2 2 3
functions-measu
rement
capabilities
Pattern design 2 3 5
functions-darts,
pleats, trace,
cut, combine,
shrink, stretch,
flip, rotate
patterns.
Pattern design 3 3 4
functions- seam
allowance
definition,
corners, corner
insert

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Removing and 2 2 4
adding of
patterns from
present files,
printing and
redo and undo
functions &
keyboard and
mouse hot keys-
shortcut keys
Pattern grading 2 2 3
functions
Maker making 3 3 4
functions
Automatic 2 3 4
marker making
functions
Software 3 3 4
platforms
Outputs and 8 7 6
consumables
availability
Manuals 3 3 4
Communication 3 4 4
s access with
respect internet
compatibility
Warranty and 2 3 3
after sales
service
CAM and CAS 2 2 2
interface
Customizing 6 5 4
features
Cost 4 3 2
implications
Interface 2 3 4
capabilities with
other design
software
Plotting facility 2 3 4
TOTAL 55 59 72

Any remarks:-
● Gerber and Lectra Modaris: consistently perform well across various criterias,
known for their reliability and extensive toolsets.
● Tukatech: scores slightly lower in some areas but may offer unique strengths or cost
advantages tailored to specific needs.

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Section D
Analyzing usage of various functions in the CAD / CAM systems.

Note: Kindly tick mark in the relevant column and pen down any remark / comment related
to the point in the last column.

S.No. Criteria Always Sometimes/ Rarely Never Additional

Occasionally Comment
1. Digitization

2. On screen pattern
construction
3. Notches option
4. Dart
manipulation
5. Grading tools
6. Size
correspondence
7. Specification
sheet
development
8. Piece assembly
9. Variant tools
10. Marker planning

11. Plotting

12. Piece rotation

13. Measurement
capabilities
14. Pattern Design
functions- Darts,
pleats, trace, cut,
combine, shrink,
stretch, flip,
Rotate pattern.
15. Removing and
adding patterns

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Section E
Technical specifications
Note: Simple instructions to fill in the form.
● Mention the various CAD / CAM systems you are aware of in (*) columns
● Mention the CAD system under the evaluating points of 1-7, evaluate by giving score
of 1-7 where 1 stands for simplest and 7 for the complicated.
● Then compare the following system on the basis of the criteria mentioned with respect
to the manual pattern making methods also (Mention the rating in the appropriate
column.)
● If a particular facility is not available in manual pattern making / CAD, mention NIL.
● In the remarks column, kindly mention the basis of your evaluating criteria (If
possible). For ex., if you have given 1 to a particular system and 3 to manual pattern
development, kindly mention why you made the decision.

Criteria Gerber Lectra Tukatech Manual Remarks

Modaris Pattern
Making
Communications-di 2 2 3 6 CAD systems are more efficient in
gitizers and file handling and importing files than
import manual methods.
Pattern design 2 2 3 5 CAD systems provide more
functions-measure precision and accuracy.
ment capabilities
Pattern design 2 3 3 5 CAD systems provide extensive
functions-darts, pattern manipulation features than
pleats, trace, cut, manual methods.
combine, shrink,
stretch, flip and
rotate patterns.
Pattern design 2 3 4 6 CAD systems automate seam
functions- seam allowance and corner handling,
allowance which are manual in traditional
definition, corners, methods.
corner insert
Removing and 3 2 4 5
adding of patterns
from present files,
printing and redo
and undo functions
& keyboard and
mouse hot keys-
shortcut keys /
Pattern alterations

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Pattern grading 2 2 3 6 CAD systems have automated

functions pattern grading.
Changes in Maker 2 2 3 6 CAD systems allow quick
plans adjustments to maker plans
Automatic marker 1 2 2 NIL
making functions
Software platforms 2 2 3 NIL
Outputs and 2 2 3 6 CAD systems streamline output
consumables production compared to manual
availability handling.
Manuals / Books 4 4 4 2
Communications 3 2 3 NIL
access with respect
internet
compatibility
Warranty and after 2 2 3 NIL
sales service
CAM 2 3 2 NIL CAD systems integrate CAM for
seamless production
Customizing 2 2 3 4
features
Cost implications 4 4 4 3 Initial Set-Up cost may be higher
for CAD systems .
Interface 3 2 3 6 CAD systems integrate well with
capabilities with other design tools
other design
software
Plotting facility 2 2 3 6 Manual methods may lack
precision.
Marker Planning 1 1 2 NIL CAD systems optimize marker
Options (Piece planning, essential for efficient
rotation, Ply and material usage.
edges, direction of
pieces, quantity of
pieces and piece
adjustment
command, marker
efficiency, fabric
width, etc.)
TOTAL 43 44 59 66

Any remarks:
● Efficient File Handling: CAD systems streamline digitization and file import
processes, reducing manual workload significantly.
● Advanced Pattern Manipulation: CAD systems provide robust tools for intricate
pattern adjustments, such as darts, pleats, and complex pattern operations.
● Automated Grading and CAM Integration: CAD systems automate grading and
integrate CAM functionalities, enhancing overall production efficiency and precision.

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9.5 ANNEXURE VI - SOFTWARE EVALUATION

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9.5 ANNEXURE VII - PLANT LAYOUT

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Store Department Layout:

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Cutting Section Layout:

Sewing Section Layout:

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9.5 ANNEXURE VIII - SAMPLING ROOM DEFECTS

Sampling Room Defects

Photograph showing Description in words of Corrective actions
the defect the defect taken Corrected Sample

Improper inseam stitch

done by the operator. Restitching the seam.

Stain on the trouser. Stain removal by thinner.

Overlocking on the hem is Remove the overlock and

not done properly. redo the overlocking.

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Redo the crotch joining by

Improper Crotch Joining stitching.

Improper stitching in
waistband. Restitch the waistband.

Improper hem stitch. Restitch the hem.

In the Care Label, ‘Made in Redo the label attachment

India’ is not visible. operation.

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Improper pocket stitch. Redo the stitching.

Hole in the garment. Manually stitch it by hand.

Re-do the fabric

Shade Variation. inspection.

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