1.

[The following indicates a man’s shirt (woven):

S.L Description Measurement Measurement with

allowane
1 Full length/Centre Back length 30″ 32
2 ½ Chest 23″
Chest 46″ 48
3 Across shoulder/Across Back 20″ 21
4 Back Yoke height 4″ 5
5 Sleeve length 24″ 26
6 Sleeve width/Arm hole 20″ 22
7 Collar Length 16” 16
8 Collar height 4” 5
9 Cuff length 9″ 10
10 Cuff width 3″ 4
11 Pocket Length 6” 7
12 Pocket width 5” 6
13 Top centre width /button placket with 4″ 5
sewing allowance
14 Top centre Length 28” 29

Calculate the consumption per dozen for this shirt (Assume Fabric Width 56″, Marker width 54″ and 8%
wastage).
2. The following indicates a man’s pant (woven):

S.L Description Measurement Measurement with

allowance
1 Full length/Pant length/outseam /side 44
40″
seam
2 In seam length 26″
3 Back Rise 12″
4 Waist band height 2″
5 ½ Waist 18″
6 WAIST (Relaxed) / Waist circumference 36″
7 Thigh 24” 26
8 ½ Thigh 12”
9 Pocket Length 7″ 8
10 Pocket width 6″ 7
11 Belt loop length 1.5” 2
12 Belt loop width .5” 1
13 No. of belt loops 6
14 Top centre Length 28”
15 Bottom hem seam allowance 2”
16 Waist band seam allowance 1”
17 Waist band sewing allowance 1”
18 In seam sewing allowance 1”
19 Out seam sewing allowance 1”

Calculate the consumption per dozen for this pant (Assume Fabric Width 56″, Marker width 54″ and 8%
wastage).
Consumption Claculation for T-shirts (1 dozen)

S.L Description Measurement Measurement

with allowance
1 High Point Shoulder length(HPSL/HPS) 70 cm 75 cm
2 Chest 100 cm 105 cm
½ Chest 50 cm 55 cm
3 Sleeve Length 20 cm 23 cm
4 Arm hole 44 cm 47 cm
5 Neck Length 44 cm 46 cm
6 Neck Width 4 cm 5 cm
8 GSM 150
9 Rib GSM 180/200
10 Wastage for fabric 10%-12%
11 Wastage for Rib 12-20%
Consumption Claculation for Polo shirts (1 dozen)

S.L Description Measurement Measurement

with allowance
1 High Point Shoulder length(HPSL/HPS) 70 cm 75 cm
2 Chest 100 cm 105 cm
½ Chest 50 cm 55 cm
3 Sleeve Length 20 cm 23 cm
4 Arm hole 44 cm 47 cm
5 Collar Length 46 cm 46 cm
6 Collar Width 7 cm 10 cm
7 Cuff Length 26 cm 28 cm
8 Cuff Width 3 cm 5 cm
9 Pocket Length 10 cm 12 cm
10 Pocket Width 8 cm 10 cm
11 Fabric GSM 150
12 Collar GSM 400
13 Cuff GSM 300
14 Wastage for fabric 10%-12%
15 Wastage for Collar & Cuff 12-20%
 Sewing thread Consumption
Math-1.
Calculate T-Shirt sewing thread consumption using following data:
4 thread overlock: 94 inch
Flat lock: 48 inch
2 needle chain stitch: 18 inch
Plain Stitch(single needle):30 inch
Wastage: 15%

Let’s find out the estimate thread consumption of machine wise for garments sewing;

Machine Thread per inch stitching for sewing

Plain Machine - Single needles 2.75 inches
Plain Machine - Two needles 5.5 inches
Over lock Machine - Three threads 15 inches
Over lock Machine - Four threads 18.75 inches or 20 inches
Over lock Machine - Five threads 23 inches
Safety stitch 20 inches
Flat lock stitch 22 inches
Chain stitches - one needles 12.5 inches
Chain stitches - two needles 25 inches
Button Hole 24 inches
Bar take machine 26 inches
Now, as per above information the sewing thread consumption of kid’s
basic T-shirt is;
In meter: (94 x 4 thread O/L) + (48 x F/L) + (18 x 2 needles chain stitches)
+ (30 x one needle P/M)
= (94 x 18.75) + (48 x 22) + (18 x 25) + (30 x 2.75)
= 1762.5 + 1056 + 450 + 82.5
= 3351 inch
= 3351 inch / 39.37 = 85 meter (As we know, 1 meter = 39.37 inches)
= 85 meter + 15% wastage
= 98 meter / body
So, as per above information, we need sewing thread for basic kid’s T-
shirt is 98 meters per garment to complete the cloth stitching.

Home work:
 Button Consumption And Measurement

Before starting calculation of button measurement we should know below information

for measuring:

1 inches = 40 ligne = 2.54 cm

1 ligne = 0.635 mm
1 dozen = 12 Pcs
1 gross = 12 Dozen = 144 pcs
1 GG = 12 Gross = 1728 Pcs

To calculate button measurement follow below formula to get the button liner;
Button liner = Button diameter (mm) x 1/0.635

MATH 2
Suppose, button dia is 15 MM then what will be the button ligne no?
Solution:
Button ligne = Button Dia / 0.635
= 15MM / 0.635
= 24 L
For 15 mm dia button, we found button size 24L. Using above formula, we can
calculate any button measurement for garments item.

Button costing calculation:

MATH 3

Suppose, we have garments order qty – 30,800 pcs and need 2 pcs
Alloy button for every garments. And we have button price $4.00 for 1
gross. Let’s find out the total button cost for 30,800 pcs garments?

Solution:
1 Gross = 144 pcs
Price for 1 gross is $4.00
Need button = 30,800 * 2 = 61,600 pcs = 427.77 Gross
So, button price will be = 427.77 * $4.00
= $1711.11
So, our button cost is $1711.11 for 30,800 pcs garments.
 Poly Bag Costing Calculation Method in Garments Industry:
At the starting of poly bag costing, a garments merchandiser should identify the below
information:
1. Polybag length in inch,
2. Polybag width in inch,
3. Poly bag thickness in gauge,
4. ½ flap of the poly bag (Flap is single layer and width of the poly bag is double layer)
5. Numbers of print on the polybag (Print can be any types of logo, text, warning, etc.),
6. Rate of polymer per pound (It can be PP, PE, and LDPE, etc.).
Important Tips**

 The next duty is to calculate poly bag consumption or calculate the amount of polymer needed to produce poly
bags.

 Then, by multiplying, poly bag consumption (total amount of polymer needed to produce poly bag) with
polymer rate, a garment merchandiser can easily calculate poly bag costing in the apparel industry.

Now, I will present an example here for poly bags costing. Hope all the confusion will be cleared.

Example:

MATH 4
Suppose, the buyer “ZARA” suggests the below information about the poly bag of a garment
export order.
Poly bag length – 28”,
Poly bag width- 24”,
Poly bag thickness – 160gauge,
½ flap of the poly bag- 5”,
Rate of LDPE polymer- $0.40 per pound.
Now, calculate the poly bags costing for the above order.

Solution:
At first, we have to calculate poly consumption according to the given
data.
Poly bag consumption (for 1000pcs in kg),

= 38.4 kg per 1000pcs ply bag.

So, for 1000pcs poly bag, LDPE polymer needed 38.4kg.
And,
For 1pc poly bag, LDPE polymer needed,
= (38.4/1000) kg= 0.04kg= (0.04 × 2.20) lbs= 0.08lbs
So, cost of LDPE polymer for 1pc poly bag ($),
= LDPE polymer needed for 1pc poly bag × LDPE polymer cost per pound
(lb)
= 0.08 × 0.40
= 0.03
So, the cost of LDPE polymer or cost for 1pc poly bag is $0.03
And,
Cost of 1000pcs poly bag,
= $(1000 × 0.03) = $30
Costing of Carton
Factors Affecting Costing:
Since costing impacts directly on profitability, so it is decided carefully considering many
factors. If the product is new and first in the market, then the company may achieve a first-
mover advantage and set the retail price higher, as opposed to when the product becomes
generic the companies will have to reduce the prices. The factors affecting apparel costing are
given below.

1. Brand recognition: Popular brands can be sold at a higher price due to brand
acknowledgement and popularity.
 2. Nature of apparel: The quality of the merchandise will decide its price and mark-
downs.
3. Market pressure: Competition in the market is a major driving force behind the
price decision. One company out of two, selling the same product will not be able to
set the price higher; otherwise they will be out of the market.
4. Supply and demand: In the case of low demand and high supply, the prices are
to be lowered, and vice versa.
5. Other costs: Inventory control, storage cost, pilferage cost, handling cost,
alteration cost, delivering cost, etc. will also be an input in deciding the final price
of a merchandise.
Components of Apparel Costing:
Normally, the costing is prepared by considering the raw material cost, market demand,
operating cost of the industry and forecasted profit of the firm and also considering the
expectations of the buyer. The various elements in apparel costing are:

1. Fabric
2. Trims and accessories
3. CMT (cut, make and trim) charges
4. Embroidery, appliqué, printing, washing and other value added processes
5. Apparel testing
6. Logistics and transportation cost
7. Profit of the industry