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Other documents randomly have
different content
 Wishing to use some 2¹⁄₄ by 3¹⁄₄-in. plates in a 6¹⁄₂ by 8¹⁄₂-in.
camera, I made kits that proved satisfactory, as follows, the method
being adaptable also to other sizes: A piece of cardboard the size of
the camera plate was procured. A rectangle, as at A, was cut in the
center, ¹⁄₁₆ in. larger each way than the plate. Paste, over the back of
the cut-out rectangle, a sheet of tough, thin paper, B, and glue two
small pieces of cardboard, as at C. Cut cardboard pieces D, E, F,
and G, proportioned as at H, and glue them into position, G being
over the others, the piece E sliding. If a dry plate is placed in the
rectangle and E is slid toward the plate, it will hold the latter in
position. The plate holder is loaded with the kit, and to prevent
warping, a couple of pins are driven into the plate holder, as at H.
Figures J and K indicate the open and closed positions. The ground
glass is marked to correspond with the rectangle, so that one can tell
where to focus the image.—L. L. Llewellyn, Piedmont, Calif.
 Photographic-Print Washing Machine
By HARRY MARCELLE

M any amateur photographers have occasion to make a

considerable number of prints and find the washing of them
tedious, by the ordinary methods. In order to overcome this difficulty
the print-washing machine shown in the sketch was made. It is
simple in construction and performs the work quite satisfactorily at a
saving of not a little time. Since the water in which the prints are
washed must be agitated, a pivoted tray is provided. A unique
feature is the water wheel through which the water supply passes, at
the same time developing power to operate the rocker arm, by
means of which the tray is agitated.
The frame for the large trough, which contains the tray and other
apparatus, is made of 2 by 4-in. uprights, braced with 2 by 2-in.
pieces. The trough is made of ⁷⁄₈-in. stock, joined at the ends with a
water-tight grooved, or dado, joint. The top is fitted to form a cover
and may be hinged or arranged as a lid, supported and held in place
by cleats, fixed on its under side with screws. The trough and its
fittings may be made of a size suited to individual requirements. The
device illustrated is 4 ft. long, and has a trough 18 in. wide and 13 in.
high. The interior of the trough is given a coat of tar to make it
waterproof, and the exterior may be painted thoroughly to preserve
the wood.
The rocking tray, in which the prints are placed, is made of ⁵⁄₈-in.
stock. It is 5 in. high, 15 in. wide, and 28 in. long. Splash boards are
fixed at its ends, as shown, and the bottom is made of muslin,
reinforced with wooden strips, ¹⁄₂ in. wide. The tray is supported on a
rod or pipe at its center, the ends of the support being set into the
sides of the trough. A crank arm of wood or metal is attached to the
center of one end of the tray, and operates through an opening in the
top of the trough. The crank arm engages a crank fixed to the shaft
of the water wheel, as shown in the sketch. The crank must be made
not longer than 2 in., or the resulting action on the tray will pour out
too much water, the prints being thus in danger of damage.

The Spray Forced from the Pipe Gives Power to the Water Wheel, Which in
Turn is Transferred to the Rocker Arm Attached to the Tray

The water wheel is made of two round disks of sheet metal, 9 in. in
diameter. Strips of wood are fitted between them so that the wheel is
3 in. wide on the face. Wooden blocks, grooved to fit the shaft of the
water wheel, are used as bearings. They are fixed to the top with
bolts. The water supply is provided through a pipe at one end. A cap
is fitted over the end of the extension on the pipe and a small hole
drilled through it. This forces the water against the blades of the
water wheel rather than permitting it to drop under normal pressure.
The flow of water is regulated by the valve on the supply pipe, and
the excess water is drained off at the opposite end of the trough. The
force of the water, as it leaves the water wheel, is lessened, and the
water carried gently to the tray, by means of a board set between the
top and the tray, at the wheel end of the trough.
A Washstand for the Baby
 To make this washstand, I mounted a cheese box on a frame 20
in. from the floor, and fitted a shelf between the legs 9 in. from the
floor. In the center of this shelf a hole was cut, with a compass saw,
to hold a wash basin. Rods between the legs are handy for towels,
washcloths, etc. Within the circular box are kept baby’s toilet and
bath articles. The inside of the box is padded with cotton and lined
with nainsook, the latter being used, also, for the cover. When the
cover is on the box, the stand is used as a small table. White enamel
gives the stand a neat finish.—F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, New York.
 Carrying Strap and Lock for Hand Cases

The illustration shows how to make a locking device for hand

cases or satchels, and providing, also, a strap for carrying. Cut two
pieces of ⁵⁄₈ by 2-in. strap iron, and two pieces, 2¹⁄₂ in. long. Bend
them, and fasten them with screws or rivets, as shown. When the
case is carried, the strap holds the crosspieces firmly.
 Disk Talking-Machine Records Played
Eccentrically
A hole was bored about an inch from the center of a disk talking-
machine record and the latter was placed on the machine with the
new hole over the center pin of the table. When the record was
played, the result was a reproduction extremely amusing and hardly
recognizable as compared with the original one.
 Safety Flue Stopper Made of Tin Pail

The usual method of covering stovepipe holes in chimneys with a

tin disk is not as safe as it should be, especially adjoining
nonfireproof material. A safer method is to fit a tin can, or a tin pail,
into the chimney hole, as shown. Cut it off the right length, with a pair
of tin shears, leaving projections as stops, and replace the disk
stopper.—J. A. Raught, Janesville, Wisconsin.
 Book Rest for Music Stand

The music-stand attachment shown in the illustration aids in the

handling of music books, and is easily made. Some stands are
provided with a supporting edge about 1 in. wide and will not
properly carry larger music books, and the device is attached to this
edge. The device is of wood, ³⁄₁₆ by 3¹⁄₄ in., and the length of the
stand. On the bottom, two wood strips are fastened. They are
beveled as shown in the sectional view, to wedge on the music rest.
—L. R. W. Allison, Newark, N. J.
 Uses for Worn Talking-Machine Needles
Among the uses made of discarded steel talking-machine needles
are the following: as glazier’s tacks; as brads, where a headless nail
or an inconspicuous one is desired; as pins for fastening papers
together; and for the tacking in of the backs on picture frames.—
William A. Martin. Jersey City, N. J.
 Automatic Photo-Print Washing

A photographers’ automatic print-washing device may readily be

made with the aid of an alarm clock, and a spool to which a piece of
thread is attached as shown. The spool is fixed to the alarm-clock
winder. An upright support, having a nail driven into the top and bent
over to form a hook, carries the thread, to which the print is attached
by a small clip. The alarm-clock mechanism is then set, and when
released draws the print from the dish, the bell warning the operator.
—George H. Holden, Chesterfield, England.
 Portable Sectional Poultry Fencing
Sectional poultry fencing has several advantages over stationary
fencing: It can be easily moved, the poultry yard being made larger,
smaller, or shifted; an area may be planted to a crop and gradually
included in the yard, furnishing greens for the poultry. Also, the
tenant who does not care to put down permanent equipment, will find
sectional fencing desirable.
 Poultry Fencing Made in Portable Sections Has Several Advantages over a
Stationary Barrier

Sections are practical to about 18 ft. long, and should be 7 ft. high
for the lighter breeds of poultry. If the fencing is to be used for grown
stock only, the fine-mesh wire below may be omitted, and 2-in. mesh
used. Some sections should be fitted with gates, and the top batten
should be set down about 1 ft., so as not to afford footing for the
poultry. The sections are lashed together with wire, and supported by
an occasional post, or guyed to buildings or supports.
Suitcase Holder for Running Board of Automobile

These Homemade Supports Are Adjustable to Suitcases of Varying Widths

Two metal strips, ³⁄₁₆ by 1¹⁄₂ by 20 in., were used to make a strong
and adjustable holder for suitcases carried on the running board of
an automobile. One-inch slots were cut near the top of the strips,
which were bent to form angles having an upright portion 12 in. long.
The angles are adjusted at the bolts, as shown, and the suitcase is
held in place by straps.—Lucien G. Baer, Los Angeles, Calif.
 Wheelbarrow for Large Cans

Milk Cans were Handled Easily by Means of This Homemade Cart

Large cans for milk are awkward to handle and transport in the
dairy or barn, and the cart shown in the sketch was made from an
old wheelbarrow and sections of pipe, to make this work easy. The
pipes were bent to the shape shown and strongly braced with iron
rods. A board bottom was provided, and the barrow wheel was
mounted between the forked ends of the frame. The cart may be
used for numerous other purposes, and is especially convenient in
that the load need only be lifted slightly.—Monroe Woolley, San
Francisco, Calif.
 Plain Butts Used as Double-Swing Hinge
By placing two ordinary plain butt hinges so that two of their wings
overlap completely, they may be made to serve as a double-swing
hinge. If the holes do not correspond in the adjoining wings, drill new
ones, disposing them to give the best hold in the wood. Allowance
must be made in applying the hinge, for the double thickness of the
center portion.

¶A rubber finger tip is convenient in counting sheets in that the paper

is not soiled, since moistening of the finger is unnecessary.
Portable Skylight for Home Portraiture
By W. W. IRVINE

P hotographers who wish to construct a part of their equipment may

be interested in a portable skylight, which I made and use with
thorough satisfaction, for home portraiture. Covered with imitation
leather, it is quite presentable in carrying it about. Figure 9 shows the
case closed, with stand, flash lamp, box of flash powder, and a
white-cloth reflector inside. The apparatus set up for work is shown
in Fig. 5, and the details of construction in the other sketches.
First make the frames for the top and bottom of the case, A, of ³⁄₈
by 2¹⁄₂-in. wood, and B, of ³⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₄-in. stock, lengths and
construction as shown in Fig. 3. Cut from extra-heavy mount board,
two 21 by 28-in. pieces, C, and tack one to one side of each of the
frames. Cut a similar piece, E, 15 by 26¹⁄₂ in., and hinge it with
strong cloth, or thin leather, to the inner side of the thicker frame, to
form the roof E, Fig. 5. Hinge the two frames with three butt hinges.
The frame is then ready for covering, and for this purpose imitation
leather is economical and practical. Two yards of 36-in. material is
needed. Use hot glue, first on the bottom half of the case, applying it
smoothly, and press the fabric into place. Then cover the sides, the
upper half, and the roof. The covering must be in one piece to
prevent the smoke from escaping at the joints. Glue down the edges
inside of the case, and set it aside for 24 hours to dry.
While waiting for the case to dry, the work on the bag can be done.
Two yards of close-woven white muslin, or one yard of 60-in.
sheeting, is required for the front. For the sides, closely woven black
material should be used. Figures 1 and 2 show the dimensions, the
white portions representing patterns, and the shaded portions
material for hems and seams. The material is folded over the