COSMETOLOGY COURSE

COURSE CO-ORDINATOR-ANJALI B. BODADE

DEPARTMENT OF CHEMISTRY
SHRI SHIVAJI SCIENCE COLLEGE,AMRAVATI
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Cosmetology course

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 Skin
Definition, Role, and Structure
Skin is the exterior organ that covers the human body, as well as the
body of other vertebrates. It is the first layer that comes in contact
with exterior factors, helping to protect us from external dangers.
Because of its dense network of sensitive nerve endings, skin acts as
a sensory organ as well. It also helps regulate our body temperature
and is capable of activating vitamin D after UV
exposure. Skin thickness varies greatly across the human body; it is
thinnest around the eyes, where wrinkles tend to first appear, while
the heels and palms are covered with notably denser skin.
Itwas long believed that skin was an impermeable barrier. Although
it is true that skin does not allow bigger compounds to penetrate it,
such belief was revised after the skin was found to be permeable to
many substances, including most skin care products.

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The skin is divided into three layers:
1. epidermis (the most exterior)
2. dermis
3. hypodermis

1. epidermis (the most exterior)

Your epidermis is the top layer of your skin, and it contains four
types of skin cells. Keratinocytes produce keratin, a fibrous protein
that guards your body against heat, bacteria, and chemicals.
Melanocytes produce melanin, which is responsible for the color of
your skin and protects you from the sun by absorbing UV light.
Langerhans cells function like the immune system of your skin by
helping produce antibodies that fight infection. And then there are
Merkel cells, which connect to your nerve cells and allow you to
experience the sensation of touch. Your epidermis is about a tenth of
a millimeter thick, except on your palms and feet, which are layered
with an extra two millimeters of cushioning.
Because, you know, they work pretty hard.

The epidermis is further divided into strata or layers: stratum

corneum (the most exterior), stratum granulosum, stratum
spinosum, and stratum basale (also called the stratum
germinativum).

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 Keratinocytes, which make up to 95 percent of the epidermis
cells, migrate from the stratum germinativum up toward the stratum
corneum. As this migration occurs, keratinocytes become highly
organized, secrete keratin (the main protein of the epidermis) and
lipids, lose their nuclei (become dead cells), and are then shed
through the natural process of desquamation, or peeling.

Stratum Basale

The stratum basale (also called the stratum germinativum) is the

deepest epidermal layer and attaches the epidermis to the basal
lamina,The stratum basale is a single layer of cells primarily made of
basal cells. A basal cell is a cuboidal-shaped stem cell that is a
precursor of the keratinocytes of the epidermis. All of the
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keratinocytes are produced from this single layer of cells, which are
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constantly going through mitosis to produce new cells. As new cells
are formed, the existing cells are pushed superficially away from the
stratum basale. Two other cell types are found dispersed among the
basal cells in the stratum basale. The first is a Merkel cell, which
functions as a receptor and is responsible for stimulating sensory
nerves that the brain perceives as touch. These cells are especially
abundant on the surfaces of the hands and feet. The second is
a melanocyte, a cell that produces the pigment
melanin. Melanin gives hair and skin its color, and also helps protect
the living cells of the epidermis from ultraviolet (UV) radiation
damage.

Stratum Spinosum

The keratinocytes in the stratum spinosum begin the synthesis of

keratin and release a water-repelling glycolipid that helps prevent
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water loss from the body, making the skin relatively waterproof. As
new keratinocytes are produced atop the stratum basale, the
keratinocytes of the stratum spinosum are pushed into the stratum
granulosum.

2. DERMIS

The dermis is right underneath your epidermis, and it is made up of

proteins you’ve heard of many times: elastin and collagen. They
make your skin strong, stretchy, and, as you may have guessed,
elastic. When you cut your skin, your dermis produces extra collagen
to fill and heal the wound. Your dermis also produces hyaluronic
acid, a chemical that helps hold hydration in the skin,
making you look youthful. The constant activity in your dermis is
what we correlate with “healthy” skin: it’s doing all of the behind-
the-scenes work to make your skin look soft and vibrant.
Beneath those two layers is your subcutaneous fat, which, as its
name suggests, is a layer of fat that connects the nerves from your
dermis and epidermis to the rest of your body, while also protecting
your insides with a

Hypodermis
The hypodermis consists of well-vascularized, loose, areolar
connective tissue and adipose tissue, which functions as a mode of
fat storage and provides insulation and cushioning for the
integument.

PIGMENTATION

The color of skin is influenced by a number of pigments, including

melanin, carotene, and hemoglobin. Recall that melanin is produced
by cells called melanocytes, which are found scattered throughout
the stratum basale of the epidermis. The melanin is transferred into
the keratinocytes via a cellular vesicle called a melanosome
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Melanin occurs in two primary forms. Eumelanin exists as black and
brown, whereas pheomelanin provides a red color. Dark-skinned
individuals produce more melanin than those with pale skin.
Exposure to the UV rays of the sun or a tanning salon causes melanin
to be manufactured and built up in keratinocytes, as sun exposure
stimulates keratinocytes to secrete chemicals that stimulate
melanocytes. The accumulation of melanin in keratinocytes results in
the darkening of the skin, or a tan. This increased melanin
accumulation protects the DNA of epidermal cells from UV ray
damage and the breakdown of folic acid, a nutrient necessary for our
health and well-being. In contrast, too much melanin can interfere
with the production of vitamin D, an important nutrient involved in
calcium absorption. Thus, the amount of melanin present in our skin
is dependent on a balance between available sunlight and folic acid
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destruction, and protection from UV radiation and vitamin D
production.

It requires about 10 days after initial sun exposure for melanin

synthesis to peak, which is why pale-skinned individuals tend to
suffer sunburns of the epidermis initially. Dark-skinned individuals
can also get sunburns, but are more protected than are pale-skinned
individuals. Melanosomes are temporary structures that are
eventually destroyed by fusion with lysosomes; this fact, along with
melanin-filled keratinocytes in the stratum corneum sloughing off,
makes tanning impermanent.

Too much sun exposure can eventually lead to wrinkling due to the
destruction of the cellular structure of the skin, and in severe cases,
can cause sufficient DNA damage to result in skin cancer. When
there is an irregular accumulation of melanocytes in the skin, freckles
appear. Moles are larger masses of melanocytes, and although most
are benign, they should be monitored for changes that might
indicate the presence of cancer.

SKIN TROUBLES
Acne results from your pores getting clogged by dead skin cells and
too much sebum, and then aggravated by bacteria. The reason you
get acne as a teenager is because your oil glands are growing in size
and producing more oil than your skin actually needs. This also
happens when you’re pregnant. According to the science, acne may
also be related to hormones, or to skin flora, or even to inflammation
in the body.
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BEST SOLUTION USE PRODUCTS HAVING SALICYLIC ACID , BENZOYL
PEROXIDE.
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FACEWASH :-
• SASLIC FACEWASH 1% SALICYLIC ACID CIPLA COMPANY.
• PANOXYL ACNE FOAMING WASH 10% BENZOYL PEROXIDE.
• CLEAN AND CLEAR ACNE CLEANSER 10 % BENZOYL PEROXIDE.

Psoriasis is what we call it when your epidermis produces too many

cells, which leads to a condition that feels scaly but is really like
having too much skin. Psoriasis is a result of a struggling immune
system—possibly you had a virus in your past and your system has
not completely recovered . . . or possibly not. According to the AAD,
“Scientists are still trying to learn everything that happens inside the
body to cause psoriasis.”

Dermatitis is itchy, red skin that can either be caused by something

internal (atopic dermatitis, or eczema) or from something that
touches your skin and aggravates it (contact dermatitis). The reaction
following exposure to poison ivy is contact dermatitis. Lots of
different things can cause contact dermatitis, including soap,
Fragrance . And water. Incidents of both types of dermatitis are on
the rise,and no scientific cause has been found.
YOU JUST CAN’T THINK of your products and medications as the one
and only way to take care of your skin. If you have a recurring skin
problem, it is almost definitely the result of something going on
internally. If you heal it topically, it will be a temporary solution, a
bandage. Until you correct whatever is causing the flare-up
internally, you are simply masking the symptom. In some
ways, it’s amazing that topical ingredients can help to heal an inside
problem from the outside
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TYPES OF THE SKIN AND IDENTIFICATION
1. Normal skin
2. Dry skin
3. Oil skin
4. Mixed skin
5. Sensitive skin

NORMAL SKIN
➢ Balanced skin, soft in texture.
➢ Get dries and wrinkled soon
➢ Should be daily cleaned,. And nourished to keep it
healthy.
➢ All types of packs.
DRY SKIN
➢ Because of less and imbalanced oil glands.
➢ Such skin appears scaly, wrinkled and lusterless.
➢ Requires nourishment from outside
➢ This skin aged soon.
OILY SKIN
➢ In this skin sebaceous glands are very active, produce
more oil.
➢ Its texture contains black heads, white heads and pimples.
➢ Doesn’t get wrinkled soon and doesn’t look good in
youth.
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 MIXED SKIN
➢ This skin is greasy in the T-zone i.e. on forehead, nose
and chin and dry on cheeks and jaw line.
➢ Dry area should be treated with moisturizer and the oily
area should be treated with the astringent.
SENSITIVE SKIN
➢ This skin is reactive to every type of external effects.
➢ It is allergic to dust, pollution, direst, bacteria,
environmental factor atmospheric effect and to all
cosmetics.

How to Test What Skin Type you Have

Determining your skin type is not a complex affair at all. One of the
simplest ways in which you can identify your skin type is to wipe your
face with a clean tissue as soon as you wake in the morning. Here is
what people with different skin types will find with this test:
Normal Skin- The tissue is oil free and your skin feels as
elastic and supple as ever.
Dry Skin- The tissue is oil free but your facial skin feels dry
and tight.
Oily skin- The tissue has oily spots and your face looks oily
especially the nose and forehead areas.

Combination Skin- The tissue has oil traces when you wipe your
nose, forehead or chin but is clean when you wipe your cheeks.
Sensitive Skin- Those who have this skin type do not usually
need the tissue-test to figure this out. That’s because sensitive skin
reacts poorly to several things- harsh sunlight, dehydration, many
creams / shampoos / cosmetics, even the weather.

Do any areas of your face appear dry or matte? If the answer to this
question is yes,then you are dealing with dry skin.
1. Are some areas of your face both dry and oily? Then you are
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dealing with combination skin (though this condition can often be a

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result of using skin-care products that are both too emollient for
your skin type and too drying, but we will work through all this). For
more information, see the chapter Solutions for Combination Skin.
2. Whether your skin is dry or oily, do you notice areas of redness
over the nose and cheek area that are accompanied by red bumps
that look like blemishes but aren’t really pimples? Are there
noticeable surfaced capillaries over these sections as well as areas of
extreme sensitivity? Do you flush easily? If you’ve answer yes
to these questions you may possibly have rosacea. Rosacea is a
medical condition requiring the attention of a dermatologist. For
more information about rosacea, see the chapter Solutions for
Rosacea.
3. Do some areas of your skin tend to break out with small to
medium size blemishes, particularly around the time of your
menstrual cycle? If you’ve answered yes to this, you have mild to
moderate acne
4. Do some areas of your skin have more significant, consistent
breakouts that are sometimes deep and painful and/or that lead to
scarring? If you’ve answered yes to this you have more severe acne.
Do areas of your skin, particularly around your nose, chin, cheeks,
or forehead,
have noticeable blackheads? If you’ve answered yes to this you can
have a mix
of skin problems but dealing with blackheads takes some special
steps.
Eventually all of us will see the impact of unprotected sun exposure
on our skin.
If you see wrinkles and skin discolorations appearing, the primary
cause will be sun
damage that started from the first moments our skin was exposed to
the sun when
we were babies. Someone at the age of 20 or 30 may have serious
sun damage, but
the results of that damage won’t show up until later in their 30s, 40s,
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and 50s. Some

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amount of sun damage is universal for almost everyone, and it
continues from the
moment your skin sees daylight. Even diligent, daily use of a well-
formulated sunscreen
only filters up to 97% of the sun’s rays (but most of us weren’t even
thinking
about sunscreen when we were younger). Generally, we can all
assume we have some
amount of sun damage, so everyone’s skin has this condition. That
means everyone
needs skin-care products with ingredients that fight or prevent sun
damage.
Do you notice skin discolorations on your face such as areas of new
freckling
or, for women of color, areas of gray or dark pigment? More often
than not,
these discolorations are a condition called melasma (also known as
chloasma or
pregnancy masking). Typically, these skin discolorations are either
caused by sun
damage or hormonal fluctuations.
Do you have patches of raised, red, dry, white scaly, crusted skin
around your
hairline, nose, eyes, or cheeks? This may be a skin disorder called
psoriasis or some
other dermatitis, which requires medical diagnosis and treatment,
potentially with
prescription products.

What Influences Skin Type?

Almost everything can influence skin type, which is why it can be so
tricky to attribute a single skin type to what you see on your face.
Both external and internal elements can and do impact the way your
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skin looks and feels. To effectively evaluate your skin and determine
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the correct skin-care routine, here are some of the factors that need
to be considered:

Internal Influences:
• Hormonal changes (pregnancy, menopause, menstrual cycle, and
more all cause skin conditions to fluctuate from oily to breakouts,
skin discolorations, and dryness).
• Skin disorders (rosacea, psoriasis, dermatitis, with each one posing
its specific concerns)
• Genetic predisposition of skin type (oily versus dry, prone to
breakouts, sensitive skin)
• Smoking (cause of necrotic skin that cannot be corrected by skin-
care products)
• Medications you may be taking (some birth-control pills can
increase oily skin and breakouts while other types can actually
improve the appearance of acne).
• Diet (there is research showing a diet high in antioxidants and
omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids can improve the appearance of
skin).

External Influences:
• Climate/weather (cold, warm, moist, dry).
• Your skin-care routine (over-moisturizing or over-exfoliating, using
irritating or drying products, using the wrong products for your skin
type can create skin problems that weren’t there before).
• Unprotected or prolonged sun exposure (the major cause of
wrinkles and skin discolorations).
• Second hand smoke.
• Pollution (creates additional free-radical activity that damages
collagen and the skin’s genetic stability). These complex and often
overlapping circumstances all contribute to what takes place on and
in your skin, which in turn determines your skin type.
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What is pH-Balance?
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pH is an abbreviation for Potential Hydrogen. The pH number ranges
from 0 to 14 and it measures how alkaline or acidic a liquid is.
Anything below 7 is Acid and anything above 7 is Alkaline. Water has
the same amount of acids and alkalis which gives it a pH level of 7.
pH levels in skin cleansers do make a difference. Your skin has a pH
level of about 5.5. The outer layer is acidic which helps to keep
bacteria out and keeps the skin moisturized. You should use a
cleanser which has the same or slightly higher pH level as your skin.
This will help to maintain the outer protective layer. If you choose to
use soap as a cleanser, which is too alkaline, then it will dissolve the
acid in your skin and it will lead to dryness.
A skin cleanser, with a pH level slightly higher than 5.5, will remove
the oil and dirt from the skin. Soap has a pH level between 9 and 12.
This is too high if you want to keep your skin moisturized. On the
other hand, cleansers should also not have a pH level which is too
low because then it won’t remove the dirt.
Therefore, look for cleansers that are soap-free with balanced pH
levels.

Will I Ever Have “Normal” Skin?

It depends on how you define normal. As far as the cosmetics

industry is concerned, every woman can and should have normal
skin. Yet acquiring normal skin is like trying to scale a peak with a
slippery, precarious slope. At some point you are going to take a
wrong step. And if you have normal skin, at some point it isn’t going
to be normal any more. Like the rest of our bodies, skin is in a
constant state of change. Even women with seemingly perfect
complexions go through phases of having oily, dry, or blemish-prone
skin—and then there are all the issues related to sun damage or
merely growing older. In reality, no one is likely to have normal skin
for very long, no matter what she does. Chasing after normal skin
can set you on an endless skin-care buying spree, running around
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in circles trying everything and finding nothing that works for very
long or that makes matters worse. In any case, identifying skin type is
highly subjective. Many women have really wonderful
skin but refuse to accept it. The smallest blemish or wrinkle or the
slightest amount of dry skin distresses them. Or some women see a
line or two around their eyes and immediately buy the most
expensive anti-wrinkle creams they can find in the hope of warding
off their worst imagined nightmare. This is one of those times where
being realistic is the most important part of your skin-care routine.

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 Skin’s Enemy: Irritation
and Inflammation

Chronic and even acute irritation and inflammation can destroy the
skin’s integrity by breaking down the skin’s protective barrier, and
that, over time, damages the skin’s collagen and elastin components.
Inside the skin, inflammation impairs the skin’s immune and healing
responses. Additionally, breaking down the skin’s protective barrier
can allow the introduction of bacteria, thus raising the risk of more
breakouts. Any way you look at it, irritating the skin in any manner is
almost always not a good idea, and especially not when it happens
every day with sun exposure or the skin-care products we use.

Inflamm-aging

Many elements are responsible for hurting skin, including hot water,
cold water, sun exposure, pollution, irritating skin care ingredients,
soaps, and drying cleansers, plus just scrubbing the skin. You may
think that none of those things bothers your skin. However, it is
startling to learn that even if your skin doesn’t feel or appear
irritated after exposure to those things, it is still being irritated and
the skin breakdown is nonetheless taking place. That means if you
are out in the sun, sitting in a sauna, or using a skin-care product that
contains potentially irritating or sensitizing ingredients, the irritation
damage is still taking place even though the skin doesn’t show it.

Avoiding the obvious substances and elements that irritate skin is

crucial for healthy skin. This includes not smoking, avoiding
unprotected sun exposure at all costs, and not using irritating or
harsh skin-care products. Not paying attention to the irritation
potential of certain ingredients in skin-care products can be
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damaging to the health of your skin.

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Note: Some irritating ingredients can also have positive results for
skin, such as AHAs, BHA, Retin-A, Renova, sunscreen ingredients,
some antioxidants, and some preservatives that keep products
stabilized. All of those can be considered essential for many skin
types and product formulations, yet they do pose a risk of irritation.
In this case, it’s simply a trade off in which the positive benefits
outweigh the potential negatives. On the other hand,
some ingredients are not only irritating but also have no positive
impact on skin, meaning they don’t help it in any way and are best
avoided. Those are the ones I consistently warn about and advise
you to avoid.

Irritating Skin-Care Steps and Products to Avoid

• Overly abrasive scrubs (including many at-home
microdermabrasion scrubs)
• Astringents containing irritating ingredients
• Toners containing irritating ingredients
• Scrub mitts
• Cold or hot water
• Steaming or icing the skin
• Facial masks containing irritating ingredients
• Loofahs
• Bar soaps and bar cleansers.

The Most Common Irritating Ingredients to Avoid:

(These are of greater concern when they appear at the beginning of
an ingredient list.)
• Alcohol or sd-alcohol followed by a number (Exceptions:
Ingredients like cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol are standard, benign,
wax like cosmetic thickening agents and are completely non irritating
and safe to use.)
• Camphor
• Citrus juices and oils
• Eucalyptus
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• Excessive fragrance
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• Menthol
• Menthyl lactate
• Menthoxypropanediol
• Mint
• Peppermint
• Sodium lauryl sulfate
• Arnica
• Bergamot
• Cinnamon
• Clove
• Eugenol
• Grapefruit
• Lavender
• Linalool
• Wintergreen
• Witch hazel
• Ylang-ylang

Skin doesn’t have to hurt, tingle, or be stimulated even a little to be

clean. (If the skin tingles, it is being irritated, not cleaned.) The
major rule for all skin types is, if a product or procedure irritates
the skin, don’t use it again.

Exceptions to the rule: When you initially begin to use an AHA or

BHA product or Retin-A, Renova, azelaic acid, or Differin, stinging or
tingling can occur. You may need to cut back if it is more than a little
tingling, or stop altogether if these symptoms persist for more than a
few weeks or worsen with repeated use.

Diet, Beauty Supp lements, and Wrinkles

Up until a few years ago I would have said we know diet is important
to the skin’s health. After all when you don’t eat, you die, and that
looks particularly bad! But the research pinpointing what kind of diet
works the best just wasn’t there. That has changed, with research
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showing what aspects of your diet can fight wrinkles and possibly
reduce your risk of skin cancer from the inside out. It all boils down
to the theory of reducing inflammation because chronic
inflammation prematurely ages the skin. In essence consuming an
anti-inflammatory diet is one of the more beautiful things you can do
for yourself. Eating an anti-inflammatory diet has many health
benefits, too many to list, but for the sake of this book it’s all about
the positives for skin. Think multicolor when you choose what to eat:
the reds of peppers, apples, cranberries, pomegranates, and
strawberries; greens from broccoli, kiwi, kale, green tea, and chilis;
blues from blueberries; brown from cocoa and coffee (without
sugar), and black from blackberries and black tea; coral from salmon;
purple from grapes and purple-colored cabbage; and on and on.
Include monounsaturated fats such as olive oil, nuts, and avocados;
and sources of omega-3 fatty acids, which are present in cold-water
fish such as wild Alaskan salmon, sardines, and anchovies, as well as
walnuts and flaxseed. In addition, add a bit of flare to your meals
with ginger, turmeric, curry, tamarind, cumin, and cardamon, all of
which have potent anti-inflammatory properties. In terms of taking
antioxidant supplements for your general health or cancer
prevention, the research is truly mixed. Some studies suggest that
taking supplements is not helpful, especially a specific one for a
specific problem.

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 Daily and Weekly Skin Care Routine

Caring for your skin is not an optional item on your daily list of things to do.
The way you look plays a very crucial role in shaping the way you feel about
yourself. When your skin is fresh and glowing with good health, you feel
confident and self-assured. Proper skin care gives you great looking skin which
works wonders for your self-esteem!

Daily Skin Care Routine

No matter what your skin type, having a regular cleansing regimen every day is
critical for good skin health. Most skin experts advise that excessive cleaning
should also be avoided at all costs. Washing your skin twice a day with a good
facial cleanser that is designed for your skin type helps keep acne and other
skin infections under control.
1)Cleansing gets rid of left over makeup and cosmetics that will end up
clogging your pores. It also removes any sweat and environmental impurities
from the surface of the skin. Many cleansers also hydrate the skin and make it
supple and elastic. It is very important to use the correct cleanser for your skin
type. Do not use regular soap to wash your face. Regular soap is high alkaline
which will dry out your skin. Some also contain perfume which removes the
normal protective sebum layer from your skin. This tends to make your skin
loses its normal moisture and in some cases may even stimulate an oily skin to
produce more oil.
2)Toning your skin is the second step in your daily skin care regimen. Toner
gets rid of any excess cleanser that is still on your skin, it refreshes the skin and
even out its pH levels. It also enhances cell renewal and refines the texture of
your skin. Use a toner that gives your skin the vitamins and minerals it needs
and you will see your skin revitalized in no time at all. The toner should be
applied right after the cleansing (twice a day) and be left on.
3)Protecting your skin from sun rays is another daily skin care routine that you
should adopt. Sun blocks are available for all skin types. Select one that suits
yours and use it diligently whenever you need to go out.
4)Moisturizing your skin and keeping it well hydrated is an important step to
follow. It helps the skin to maintain its normal moisture balance, puts lost
moisture back into your skin and it also helps create the perfect base for your
foundation. Many people with oily skin believe that moisturizing is
unnecessary for them. But this may not really be true. Allowing your skin to get
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excessively dry may actually worsen your skin.

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 Weekly Skin Care Routine- Exfoliation
To support your daily skincare routine, it is also important for you to take some
extra care over the weekend to get your skin ready for the week ahead.
Although some experts recommend exfoliation as a daily routine, I recommend
that you do it once or twice a week. This is quite sufficient for good skin health.

What is Exfoliation?
Exfoliation is the process of removing old, dead skin cells that remain on the
outermost surface of your skin. This is an important part of facial skin care and
body treatment. Exfoliation, when done correctly, leaves your skin looking and
feeling fresh and smooth. Since the outer layer of dead cells is removed by this
process, creams, serums and moisturizers penetrate the skin better and have
better effect when applied after exfoliation.

When to Exfoliate?
It is not necessary to carry out exfoliation every day. This is necessary only
when there is enough build-up of dead cells over the skin surface to be
detrimental to overall skin health/appearance. To know when to exfoliate,
here is a simple test you can use. Apply a piece of clear tape to your forehead
and rub gently. When you remove it and you see tiny pieces of flaky skin
adhering to it, you need to exfoliate.
Exfoliation becomes even more important as you become older. As part of
normal body processes, the skin renews cells at the lower layer or dermis.
These rise to the surface (epidermis), keratinizing as they advance. These
keratin-filled cells form a protective outermost layer of skin. In time, they
slough off and allow new cells to take their place and the cycle goes on.
However, as we age (near age of 40 and above), the process of cell
regeneration and replacement slows down dramatically. As a result of uneven
sloughing off and replacement with new cells, the skin loses its glow and
becomes rough. Exfoliation is very essential in such conditions to remove the
dead cells that remain on the epidermis so that new cells can take their place.
Exfoliation is a very effective solution to many skin problems, especially those
arising from or aggravated by closed pores. Checking periodically if this process
is necessary and doing it as soon as the right signs appear helps keep your skin
in great condition.
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How to Exfoliate?
There are four ways in which you can exfoliate the dead skin cells: Granular,
Cream, Enzyme and Chemical.

Granular exfoliation is best to use on young teenage skins with no acne.

Usually fine peach pits are in the exfoliation and this helps to remove any dead
skin cells. Use a wet sponge to remove the scrub from your face.

Cream exfoliation is best to use on mature skins (women between 40-50

years). It looks like cream and is applied in a thin layer and left to dry. No
steam is used during this. Once it’s dry, you can rub it off with dry fingers.

Enzyme exfoliation is usually used with a steamer and it works well on older
skin types and acne skins. It is also a cream that you apply. The steamer then
activates the enzymes to work on your skin. Remove it with sponges.

Chemical exfoliation is used to remove any spots, blemishes and acne scars
from the face. Both enzyme and chemical exfoliation are done at spas, skin
care studios or at medical skin care centers where experienced professionals
oversee the process.

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 Skin Care for Different Skin Types

The first and most important step when starting a skincare regimen is to find
out your skin type. This helps you choose the right products to use so that your
skin benefits most, in the shortest possible time. Most cosmetics, cleansers,
toners, facial masks and other products have the skin type they are best suited
for mentioned prominently on the packaging. When shopping for products,
make sure to pay special attention to this information.
Another advantage of knowing your skin type is that you know which
ingredients are likely to be harmful to your skin. For example, for those with
sensitive skin, apricot scrub is best avoided because it is too aggressive and
harsh. Salicylic acid is good for acne prone skin. For those with oily skin,
products containing salicylic acid are also a good choice. To make a judicious
choice of products, you do need to look at their ingredients. Knowing your skin
type lets you pick products with all the right ingredients to give you healthy
and great looking skin.

Caring for Normal Skin

Normal skin is the easiest to care for. The best products to use for this skin
type are those that support normal skin functions. Of course, even normal skin
does break out at rare times or develops rashes or skin blemishes when
exposed to certain products. But this skin type usually bounces back to its
normal healthy glow with some help from you with the right skin care
products.
To care for normal skin you need a gentle cleanser which also works as your
makeup remover. Keep your skin well hydrated with moisturizers and toning
gels. Use a hydrating gel mask once a week to keep the skin supple and to keep
dry skin problems well away. Serums and day creams to nourish and protect
the skin during daytime and firming eye creams, night time creams and oils
allow normal skin to repair cell damage and regain a healthy glow for the day
ahead.

Caring for Dry Skin

Dry skin requires extra special care, especially during winter months. Regular
and effective cleansing is very important for dry skin since clogged pores
further reduce the available sebum. Use a mild cleansing milk to ensure that
the dryness is not worsened by the cleansing process. Avoid washing your face
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too many times as it strips the skin of essential oils and moisture. Cleansing
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once before applying makeup and once at night is sufficient. Cleansers that
have good moisture retention are good choices for dry skin. Avoid alcohol
based toners that dry out your skin. Use a toner with honey or mint instead.
Use nourishing creams generously. Pick creams that have vitamin E to give
your dry skin new life. Vitamin E also postpones the appearance of wrinkles
and lines. Under eye creams are also good options. But if you are using a
heavier one during the daytime take care to remove it thoroughly at bedtime.
Oil massages with natural oil (e.g.: olive/coconut) before bath help your skin
stay hydrated after the wash. Take short warm showers and keep away from
all bath soap bars (except those with high fat content). Apply a rich moisturizer
right after your bath so that it can penetrate your skin most effectively. For
very dry skin, apply a layer of olive oil or other plant oils, such as safflower,
almond, or canola, over your nighttime moisturizer as an extra treatment.

Moisturizer :- Curél Ultra Healing Intensive Moisture Lotion (body),

white soft paraffin and light liquid paraffin lotion , eucerin Aquaphor.

Caring for Oily Skin

Oily skin has a natural barrier against moisture loss which is why you can avoid
rich moisturizers for this skin type. However, some oily skin types may be
prone to dryness in winter months. Then moisturizing is necessary.
Proper cleansing is a very important part of your oily skin care regimen as to
prevent acne. Cleansing clears your pores and ensures that there is no debris
clogging them leading to blackheads, infections and other common oily skin
problems. Use oil control cleansers (e.g.: with activated charcoal) or those
containing salicylic acid and avoid those containing sulfates.
People with oily skin may, if necessary, carry out exfoliation twice a week. This
removes buildup over the epidermis. Moisturizing serums are better choices
than lotions or creams. If your skin becomes dry with the serum use one that
hydrates.
Although oily skin does have its own natural protection, you should apply
sunscreen when you go out. Avoid sunscreen- moisturizer combos and opt for
lightweight sunscreen-only products. For your weekly facials, use clay based
masks that absorb the excess oil from your skin.

Caring for Combination Skin

For those with combination skin, choosing products that suit both the dry parts
27

and the greasy parts is a difficult task. Sometimes, it may be better to simply
use two different products for either. However, most people can care
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effectively for this skin type by choosing their skincare products from a range
that is specially designed for combination skin. When it comes to dealing with
specific skin problems, it is relatively easy to use the product, say, an acne
treatment gel, only on the affected or problem prone areas. For instance, you
could use the acne cream over your T-zone and use a moisturizer around the
eyes and over your cheeks where the skin is dry and flaky.
Antioxidant rich products or those containing cell communicating ingredients
are a good choice for people with combination skin. If the greasiness is causing
most of the skin problems you encounter, then light weight gels, serums and
lotions are the better choice.
If you are breaking out more after the use of a specific product, it is likely that
you are allergic to ingredients it contains. Avoiding this product could correct
your skin problem and also make your skin more balanced and easier to care
for.
Cleansing your face with a gentle cleanser is the very first step in combination
skin care. Water soluble products are the best as they help avoid dryness and
irritation. Gel based cleansers or mild foaming ones are perfect to control the
breakouts in the oily parts of your face. But if your skin is already irritated or
sun burned, opting for a lotion cleanser may be a better option. If a toner is
part of your daily skin care regimen then use only products that have no
alcohol, menthol or fragrances. Citrus oils are also best avoided in toners.
Use an effective sunblock no matter how short your trip outside is going to be.
Sunscreens and sun blocks keep your skin looking healthier and younger for
longer and keep wrinkles away. Lotion or cream moisturizers applied to the dry
areas keep the skin here problem free. But avoid these on the greasy parts at
all cost.

Caring for Sensitive Skin

This skin type is perhaps the most challenging one to care for mainly because it
is very prone to irritation at the slightest provocation. A good first step in
sensitive skin care is to only use products that are labeled fragrance free or
perfume free. Fragrances can cause skin reactions; in fact, they may be the
cause of more skin reactions than any other ingredients in your skin care
product.
Other things to avoid are products with too many chemicals (or preservatives).
If finding a preservative free product is proving difficult, try experimenting with
different products to find the preservatives that affect you least. Products with
alcohol content are a no-no (example, some toners) as they dry out the skin
28

and leave it more vulnerable to irritation. Avoid oil based makeup products. To
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ensure that the products. you buy are suitable for your skin type, always test
them out on a small area of skin that is not readily visible to others.
What you can use are skincare products that are hypo-allergenic. Rather than
face washes or soaps, use a mild cleanser to wash your face. Keep your skin
from becoming too dry by moisturizing with a water based moisturizer. For sun
protection, use a sun screen whenever you step out. Remember that sensitive
skin burns very easily when exposed to the sun’s rays.
Avoid using makeup on irritated /broken skin or rashes as this will exacerbate
your problem. When drying your skin after a wash, always pat dry rather than
rub dry to keep your skin irritation free.

MASK 1
Cucumber Mask

This skin-friendly mask is highly moisturizing, greatly refreshing,

and suitable for all skin types, even most sensitive ones. Make it
during summer’s hottest months to replenish some of the skin’s lost
nutrients. The addition of highly nutritious royal jelly takes this formula to a
whole other level.

INGREDIENTS
⅓ English cucumber plus 2 slices for the eyes
1 teaspoon royal jelly
2 tablespoons ground oats

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Precut the cucumber, then puree with a stick blender. Add the royal jelly,
mix, and then gradually add the oatmeal, mixing continuously to achieve a
pastelike texture.
2. Spread the mask on a clean face and neck, then lie back and place the
cucumber slices on your eyelids, flipping them over halfway through the 15
minutes of waiting time.
3. Rinse off the mask with lukewarm water and follow with your daily
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moisturizer.
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MASK 2

Healthy Glow Mask

As well as being highly moisturizing, this formula improves skin
glow by providing vitamin A precursors, as well as vitamin E and
other antioxidants. It calls for carrot seed oil, which is rich in carotenoids,
precursors of vitamin A that are capable of giving a healthy glow to tired
skin, as well as for rice bran oil, which is rich in antioxidants, such as the
anti-aging vitamin E. And because skin moisture is important, a little glycerin
or honey is added. Unless you are pregnant, it is also recommended to drink
a cup of carrot juice daily over a week to boost skin glow. (Excessive
amounts of vitamin A might pose a risk of fetal harm, so pregnant women
should consult with their physician prior to ingesting considerable amounts
of carrot juice.)

INGREDIENTS
1 teaspoon carrot seed oil
1 teaspoon rice bran oil
1 ounce (30 ml) pureed cucumber
1 teaspoon vegetable glycerin or honey
1 tablespoon ground oats

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Mix the oils and add 2 tablespoons of pureed cucumber; add the glycerin
or honey. Sprinkle with the ground oats and whisk vigorously. Add oatmeal
as needed to increase the thickness of the mask to your preference and
prevent dripping.
2. Use immediately after preparing, while nutrients are at their peak. Spread
on a clean face and neck.
3. Leave on for 15 minutes, and then wash with warm water. Always follow
with a daily moisturizer.
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MASK 3

Egg White Skin-Firming Mask

Egg whites are a smart addition to your facial mask when you
seek a skin-tightening effect, because it is a great quality protein
that will support collagen. Combined with glycerin and yogurt, this
formula will surely improve skin feel and tone. Yogurt is acidic and will act as
an exfoliating agent, assisting with skin cell renewal.

INGREDIENTS
1 egg white
Zest of ¼ lemon
½ teaspoon vegetable glycerin
1 tablespoon yogurt
1 tablespoon ground oats

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Prepare this mix immediately prior to application. Using a whisk, mix the
egg white with the lemon zest (to neutralize the egg’s smell), then add the
glycerin and yogurt and whisk until homogenous.
2. Gradually, sprinkle with the ground oats and mix well.
3. Apply to a clean face and neck, avoiding the eye area. Wait 10–15
minutes before rinsing off with tepid water. Follow with your moisturizer
and a daytime sunscreen.

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32
 Bath Soaps and
Body Washes
Most bath bars are made from synthetic and semi-synthetic
detergents including sodium tallowate – made from animal fats – and
sodium palmate, sodium palm kernelate and sodium cocoate which, although
of vegetable origin, can be highly processed and retain none of their
original vegetable characteristics. They can also contain glycerine (a
humectant), water softeners such as pentasodium disodium EDTA and
tetrasodium EDTA, skin conditioners such as stearic acid, rinse aids such
as sodium chloride as well as parfum and synthetic colours.
They may all look the same and largely contain the same
ingredients, but manufacturers claim significant differences with regard
to the degrees of effectiveness and mildness between their products.
There is some basis for such claims. For example, glycerine-based soaps
are among the mildest on the market while deodorant and antibacterial
soaps are among the harshest and most irritating to skin.
If you want to choose the mildest and most effective bar of soap look
for those that contain only vegetable-based ingredients and which don’t
have any colours in them. If they have organic certification all the better
since these soaps will have minimal preservatives in them and use
essential oils instead of heavy synthetic perfumes as a fragrance.
To avoid
Your bubble bath or shower foam is likely to contain detergents like
sodium laureth sulphate and cocamidopropyl betaine, preservatives such as
tetrasodium EDTA, methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone,
and humectants such as propylene glycol or butylene glycol. If your bubble
bath has cocamide DEA (or similar compounds ending with DEA, TEA
or MEA) along with formaldehyde-forming substances such as 2-bromo-2-
nitropropane-1,3-diol (bronopol or BNP), DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl
urea, imidazolidinyl urea and quaternium 15 there is the possibility it
contains cancer-causing nitrosamines.
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See for this……..
Always opt for vegetable- and glycerine-based detergents over
harsher petrochemical-based varieties.
• Buy real soap made from at least 70 per cent vegetable oil. Many
health food shops stock them or you can order them from specialist
suppliers (see Resources).
• Choose a liquid castile soap instead of a body wash. Liquid castile
soaps (such as those made by Dr Bronner) foam beautifully and are
made from enriching oils such as coconut, hemp and olive.They are
usually fragranced with essential oils (but check the label) and even
come unscented so you can add your own fragrance.

HOME MADE RECIPE IN OPTION TO SOAP

Oatmeal powder – 1 cup (Oatmeal soaps are supposed to be better at

absorbing oil and soothing sensitive skin than other soaps or bar cleansers)
Neem powder -1 cup
Sandalwood powder – 1/3 cup
Turmeric powder – 1tbsp
Gram flour – ½ to 1 cup

Optional :- almond powder – 2 Tbsp

Orange peel powder – ½ cup

HOME MADE RECIPE IN OPTION TO BODY CLEANSING

Chickpea flour – 2 Tbsp

Honey – 3 tbsp
Water- 3 tbsp

Fragrant Body Mask

The following formula is something between a mask and a lotion.
It is greatly moisturizing because of the creaminess of half-and-half, which
will boost the skin’s lipid barrier, while honey and glycerin will draw
moisture to it. Rose water will leave a soft flowery scent all over the body,
and vitamin E is an antioxidant and an anti-aging ingredient that will perfect
34

the efficacy of the mix.

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INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon honey
2 ounces (60 ml) rose water
1 tablespoon vegetable-derived glycerin
½ cup half-and-half
20 drops (1 ml) vitamin E

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Dissolve the honey in the rose water; then add the glycerin and the half-
and half. Add the vitamin E, whisk, and then pour all ingredients into a
bottle. Seal tightly and shake vigorously.
2. Refrigerate this mixture until you are ready for it. Use in a day or two at
the latest.
3. At the end of your shower, pour small amounts in your palms and spread
on legs and arms.
4. Wait a few minutes, then rinse with warm water, and pat your body dry
with a towel.

Anti-Stretchmark Balm
During pregnancy, the breasts and belly increase in size, which
forces the skin to stretch accordingly. Overall weight gain is also a
reason for significant stretching. This challenges the skin’s elasticity, and
stretch marks may appear.
It is much easier to prevent stretch marks than to treat them, and
prevention is recommended as early as possible during pregnancy, even
before. This formula uses simple and organic ingredients without any added
fragrance that pregnant women may not tolerate. It contains no water and
stores well.
INGREDIENTS
2 ounces (60 ml) organic cocoa butter
1 tablespoon organic almond oil
1 tablespoon cucumber seed oil
10 drops (0.5 ml) vitamin E
Note: You can substitute shea butter for the cocoa butter and olive oil for
the cucumber seed oil, depending on availability, nut allergies, and scent
tolerance.
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INSTRUCTIONS
1. Melt the cocoa butter in a double boiler, over low heat; then add the
almond and cucumber seed oils. Whisk until well blended and then remove
from the heat. Continue whisking as the mixture cools.
2. Pour the mixture into a dark glass jar with a wide mouth, and set aside.
Seal with a lid when completely cooled.
3. Rub on your belly, or other part of your body, twice daily, preferably after
showering.
4. Store away from heat and humidity.

Make your own body scrub. In a bowl or other wide mouthed

container mix 90ml (6tbsp) finely ground salt or sugar (salt works
best for oily skin; sugar for normal to dry) with 200ml (7floz) of
vegetable oil (olive, almond or grapeseed are good choices).
Essential oils are optional.Apply to damp skin and rinse well. It will
leave your skin very soft (but beware it can also make the tub or
shower quite slippery.

WHICH ESSENTIAL OIL?

When you are ready to try making your own products, use
the following guidelines to choose essential oils that match your
skin type.
• Greasy skin: Lavender, orange, lemon, clary sage, neroli, cypress,
ylang ylang, bergamot.
• Normal skin: Palma rosa, geranium, lavender, Roman camomile,
jasmine, neroli, ylang ylang frankincense, sandalwood, patchouli.
• Sensitive skin: lavender, German camomile.
• Dry or damaged skin: Geranium, lavender, German camomile,
Roman camomile, clary sage, naiouli, thyme, myrrh or a mixture
of eucalyptus and lemon or peppermin
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 HAIR

Hair is an appendage of the skin. Men and women have been

concerned about their hair throughout history. Hair has always had great social
significance; even today some people will judge you by the length and style of
your hair. Hair offers protection to your body and helps you to look attractive.
The scientific study of hair is called trichology.
Hair covers all parts of your body except for the lips, palms and
soles and parts appendage typical of the mammalian skin hair gives a frame to
a face. The style and condition of hair exert tremendous influence on the
appearance. Hair style can be changed according to your choice but healthy
and manageable hair is of prime importance than any change in style. Healthy
hair means manageability, sheen and some other factors.
Hair is actually modified epidermal cells, so they are called skin
appendages along with sweat glands and to sebaceous glands.
FUNCTIONAL OF HAIR
Hairs are present on different parts of the body. So their functions
are also different. There are mainly two functions of hair
1) Vital functions
2) Accessory functions

Vital functions-
❖ In nose and ears: =it keeps foreign bodies from invading you.
❖ Under the arms and in pubic area; =it protects your body from friction.
❖ On the head: =cushions you from blows and keep your head warm in
winter and cool in summer, protects the scalp from sunlight and other
trauma.
❖ On eyes and eyebrows: =protects from foreign bodies, sunlight and
perspiration (sweat0. Eyelashes shade the eyes and help to keep dust
out.
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Composition of hair-
➢ Hair is composed mainly of a hard chemical substance called as keratin.
Keratin is a protein.
➢ Hair contains varying amount of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen and
sulphur.
➢ Light hair has more oxygen and sulphur whereas dark hair has more
carbon and hydrogen.

Density and distribution

❖ Hair is present all over the body, except for a few regions like palms,
soles, muco - cutaneous junctions and the distal dorsal parts.
❖ Hairs are present all over the cutaneous surface.
❖ The hair density is maximum on the cheek and forehead is about
800hair\cm2followed by the scalp.
❖ The hair density is maximum at birth and gradually decreases as the age
advances.
38

❖ You normally lose 50-100 hair a day. You probably have more
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than100000 hair on your head, though so you can afford to lose a few.
CHARECTERISTICS OF HAIR
In describing hair, we usually speak of its texture, elasticity, porosity
and density.
1) Texture=the texture of hair may be coarse, medium, fine or very fine. This is
usually determined by the diameter of the hair. Coarse hair have a large
diameter while very fine hair have a very small diameter means coarse hair are
thick and fine hair are thin all four types of hair can be described as either soft
or wiry, depending on how the hair feels. Wiry hair resists treatment and so it
takes longer to wave, tint or lighten it.
2) Porosity=it refers to the ability of the hair to absorb moisture. If you have
low porosity hair, it means the structure of your hair doesn't easily allow
moisture to be absorbed into your hair shaft. This can make it harder for water
to saturate your hair when it's washed. Because this type of hair tends to repel
moisture, it can also be more challenging to process and style
3)Elasticity- it refers to the ability of a hair to stretch beyond its normal length
and then spring back normal hair when wet can be stretched to about one and
a half times its normal length. Dry hair is not so elastic. Dry hair will stretch
about 20% of its length and return.
4) Density-it refers to the amount of hair per square inch on the scalp. The hair
is said to be thin, medium- or thick depending upon how much hair there is.

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Structure of hair
There are two main divisions of the hair one above the surface of the skin and
one below it. The portion of the hair that we are usually most concerned about
is called the hair shaft. This is the part of the hair that we see sticking out from
the skin. The hair root is the portion that is below the skin.

40
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The active hair follicle can be divided into three segments.

** The upper segment consist of infundibulum (up to the entry of

the sebaceous duct)
** The middle isthmus lies between the duct of the sebaceous gland and
attachment to the arrestor pilorum muscle.
**The lower inferior segment.

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The enlarged lowermost part of the hair follicle is called as hair bulb.
The center of hair bulb is invaginated at the lower end to form the dermal
papilla. It contains both vascularised muscles and nerves. Nutrients and oxygen
are absorbed by the dermal papilla for generation and growth of hair. The cells
of hair in contact with dermal papilla are called hair matrix. Hair matrix is
responsible for actual production of hair. It contains melanocytes responsible
for the basal layers with their dendrites absorbing between the kerationcytes.
The keratinocytes of the hair bulb show intense activity and divided every 20-
28 hours

The various layers of the hair follicles from inside to outside are as follows: =
1) Medulla
2) Cortex
3) Cuticle, cuticle of inner root sheath.
4) Huxley’s layer
Inner sheath
5) Henley’s layer
42

6) Outer root sheath

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These all layers are surrounded by the vitreous membrane i.e. basement
membrane zone and fibrous root sheath the papilla and inferior segment of
the follicle are richly supplied by capillaries and nerves.
❖ MEDULLA

The innermost portion of the hair shaft is the medulla. This is the medulla.
This is a small core of cells that can run from the hair bulb to the tip of the
shaft. Sometimes the medulla is present only in the part of the hair that is
below the skin. The medulla is very small in fine hair and there may be no
medulla at all in sort, downy hair that grows on the cheeks, arms and other
parts of the body. It is present in all wave and curly hair. The lighter the curl,
the stronger the medulla.

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Page
44
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45
 ❖ CORTEX
Beneath the cuticle lies the cortex. It forms the bulk of the hair and it
consists of numerous layers of flattened elongated cells packed
together. The cortex is made up of fibrous that coil in a helix. One tiny
fibred, a microgibril, will coil around other fibres to make a large or
macrofibril. These large fibres then coil around each other to create a
cortex. It gives strength and elasticity to the hair. It gives the hair its
colors due to presence of the pigment granules.

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 47

❖ CUTICLE
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 The outer layer or covering is called the cuticle. The hair cuticle is
composed of tiny, transparent 5-10 layers of flattened cells arranged in
an overlapping roof tile pattern; thickness of each cell is 0.5 u. The
cuticle protects the inner structure of the hair.
❖ INNER ROOT SHEATHE
It consist of three layers
a. Cuticle of inner sheath
b. Huxley’s layer
c. Henley’s layer

The inner root sheath is formed by the periphery and outer

edge of the hair matrix. The inner root sheath is broken down by the
time, the thinner upper part of the hair follicle is reached or near the
opening of the sebaceous gland. The function of inner root sheath is
to give form and profile of hair root in hair follicle.
a. The inner root sheath comprises of its cuticle i.e. cuticle of
inner sheath.
b. Huxley’s layer- it consists of 4-6 layers of the elongated cells.
c. Henley’s layer- the two cell thick Henley’s layer keratinize first
followed by the inner root sheath, cuticle and Huxley’s layer,
only one cell thick and first to cornify.

❖ OUTER ROOT SHEATH

It consist of only two layers at the base of the bulb, expands gradually to 4-6
layers the outer root sheath continues with its terminal part, the arrestor
pilgrim passes. This is all about the structure of hair.
Types of hair:-
According to the thickness of the shaft, hair can be classified into three types.
a) Vellus hair
b) Terminal hair
c) Indeterminate hair
48

a) Vellus hair: - it covers most of the body surface. These are thin, short,
unmedullated and unpigmented.
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 B) Terminal hair: - these are dark, thick, medullae, pigmented and
longer, cover the scalp, beard, moustache, axils and pubis, etc.
c) Indeterminate hair: - this are called lanugos (wool-like) hair. These are
those hairs that cover the foetal skin and are shed at the foetal age of 8-
9 months or after birth. They are thin, unmedulated and light colored
but longer than vellus hair.
Thickness of hair depends on race. Age and sex thin hair are about 0.05-
0.07 mm
And thick hairs are about 0.1-.15mm thicker hair are coarsest and thinner are
finer.

Hair cycle:--
Hair follicles go through cyclic phases
of activity and inactivity during which
the inferior segment below the
attachment of arrestor pilgrim
periodically disappears and reappears.
The life of each hair is independent of
other hair and they are repeatedly
growing, folling out and regrowing. This
is called as the hair cycle.
The hair cycle is divided into three
parts:-
1) Anagen
2) Catagen
3) Telogen
The length of anagen which determines
the length of hair differs according to
heredity, sex, age, body region and
follicular size. The normal human scalp
has about more than 1, 00,000 hairs.
1) anagen :-(the growing phase)
49

This is the first stage, hat of active

hair growth. During this phase, scalp
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 hair continues to grow. This phase lasts for 2-10 yrs. for the scalp
hair. During this period, the dermal papilla is large and the hair matrix
is dividing actively so the hair is elongating in addition, the bulb
reaches into the sub-dermal tissue. In this period hair shaft diameter
increases in size and the hair reaches maximum length the growing
phase is influence by gender, age, nutrition, health and hormones.

2) Catagen:--(transitional phase)
When the growth stops for a time, the hair
follicle has reached the catagen period
hair growth slows during a transitional
stage .i.e. catagen phase. In this, the newly
formed club hair moves towards the skin
surface. It is the shortest period and
begins when melanocytes in the hair bulb
stops producing melanin. During catagen,
the follicle rapidly decreases in volume
and the lower part of the follicle is
destroyed. In this phase, the follicle shrinks and the bulb thickness ad
slightly lifts from the papilla.

3) Telogen:--(the resting phase)

This resting phase lasts about 3 months and ends when a new hair
forming from the papilla pushes the old hair up and out. In this
period, the dermal papilla forms a ball close to the tip of the hair
follicle. In telogen, the next generation of hair starts growing from
the base. The hair growing cycle is repeated over and over.
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 Hair growth is influenced by various factors: - Nourishment, season of
the year, time of day and location of the hair. Hair on head grows faster
than others body hair. It grows faster in the summer; in daylight scalp
hair grows at the rate of about ½ inch per month.
Paradoxically, the very same androgens associated with hair growth,
have also been associated with hair loss (androgenetic alopecia). These include
testosterone and dihydrotestosterone (DHT). So, it’s important to take a look
at where within the hair follicle these androgens act.

The Germinating Layer May Be Key

It very much seems that one of the key players in the whole process of hair
growth is the germinating layer of the epidermis.

1. Hair growth all starts from the germinating layer, which grows down from
the epidermis and into the dermis of the skin.

2. This growth then develops into the outer root sheath (which forms the inner
wall of the follicle).

3. The outer root sheath then forms both the germinal matrix (which goes on
51

to grow the actual hair shaft) and the bulge (which provides stem cells that
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migrate down to form the lateral disc and so provide germ cells ready for the
next hair growth cycle).

4. Even during telogen, the dormant phase, the outer root sheath stays
attached to the papilla cells that remain (i.e., in preparation for the next hair
cycle).

Chemistry of hair:-
Chemical composition of hairs-
• The chief component of hair is protein keratin which is found in all horny
growth.
• Chemical composition various with its color.
• Besides these other components are melanin pigments, lipids, traces of
element and water are minor components.
• The principle protein components of hair are cystine rich keratin. Keratin
can be composed of 18-25 amino acids.
• Metallic trace elements like copper, zine, magnesium, calcium and
manganese. Other elements are carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen and sulphur
darker hair has more carbon and less oxygen, the reverse is true for
lighter hair. Average hair is composed of 50.65% carbon, 6.36%
hydrogen, 17.4% nitrogen, 5% sulphur and 20.85% oxygen.
• Hair contains about 1-9% internal lipid and some percentage of external
lipid.
• Hair absorbs water from surrounding at 250c and 65oc relative humidity.
Water content is 12-13%.

Rate of hair growth

The rate of hair growth occurs on different parts of body is different. The
factors which affect the rate of hair growth are-
Age – it is highest in the sixth and seventh decades. Effects of aging are
observed on all components of the hair follicles. The hair follicle decrease in
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size, shaft diameter reduces.

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Sex – hairs growth on the scalp are faster in female than in male. It is reverse
before puberty. (Males>female except over the scalp) both the sexes have
highest growth rate between age 50-69 yrs.
Site- anatomical region the growth rate of hair is as,
scalp>beard>moustache>extremities.
Types of hair- terminal hair grow faster than the vellus hair.
Season- daily variation in temperature has no effect on hair growth.
(Summer>winter) the beard grows faster in summer than in winter.

Androgen effect- those hair follicles which give response to the changes in
androgen metabolism are known as androgen pendent hair.
Rate of hair growth per day (24 hours)
area male female
On scalp 0.44mm 0.45mm
beard 0.35mm -
extremities 0.25mm -
temple 0.39mm -
thigh - 0.21mm

Male chin 0.38mm -

Chest 0.44mm -
Vellus hair on forehead Grow only 0.03mm/day -

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 The Art of Making Shampoo and Conditioner at Home

How Easy Is It?

This chapter will prepare you for the art of homemade hair care. It will guide
you through a few steps that you need in order to make your own shampoo
and conditioner; plus, you can also use some of these hints to enhance your
other homemade hair and body products, including: masks, soaps, lotions
and potions.
You may be wondering whether your time will be compromised when
creating your own products at home, but fear not: preparation is simple!
Neither your wallet nor your schedule will suffer from your wise decision to
treat your hair with kindness.

Easy and Familiar with a Twist

Creating your own shampoo or conditioner is not much more complicated
than preparing masks. Many of us may have already experimented with face
or hair masks in past by using the ingredients in our homes – just explore
your pantry to discover what you can utilize. You will have to purchase very
few additional
items for your organic hair care, namely, the essential oils you choose to
use. Start by using products you are familiar with for their nourishing
properties. You will feel more ‘at home’ with your ingredients and you’ll
already have great confidence in the efficiency of your hair care. So, what
can you spot right now in
your pantry? Coconut milk? Oranges? Maple syrup? Avocado? Olive oil?
Sage? Once you have your essential oils, you’re almost there.
Homemade Hair Care is Quick and Versatile
Some people are already familiar with making various cosmetic products,
including soaps, body butters and scrubs, lip balms; and even lotions and
perfumes. Luckily, shampoo is one of the easiest things to prepare at home
– you only have to know the basics and be aware of a few simple
combination rules. You should also be mindful of some of the essential
properties each ingredient
contains in order to use it creatively in a variety of other products, too.

What You Need

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The Right Cleansing Agent and Container

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You will need several ingredients and a good container to store your
formulas. You may reuse and recycle an empty, cleaned shampoo bottle or
you can also purchase a squeezable plastic bottle from your nearest dollar
shop or variety
tore. Alternatively, you can also place the formula in a glass jar; however, I
recommend using a squeezable container, which makes for easier use whilst
you are washing your hair.
So, what else do you need for your shampoo? Just a few simple ingredients:
A cleansing agent (as outlined below)
Nourishing ingredients of your choice (essential oils, herbal infusions,
fresh fruits, etc.)
Organic flour (optional, and works best for oily hair–corn, rice or
arrowroot flour work well)
Carrier oil of your choice (quantity depends on the amount of hydration
you desire)
You have various options when it comes to your cleansing agent:
Some people use potassium hydroxide , otherwise known as ‘caustic
potash’ –
a water-soluble compound, a pH adjuster and a versatile cleaning agent –
similar in chemical structure to ‘lye’. The process of creating liquid soap with
potassium hydroxide involves dissolving the agent in water and mixing it
with a very consistent, but nourishing ingredient, like warmed up coconut
oil, whilst taking extreme caution not to let this powerful cleaning agent
come into direct skin contact (you must wear gloves and/or a filter mask, as
it can be corrosive to the skin in its pure form). Some people choose not to
use potassium hydroxide for this very reason – the method is slightly more
laborious and the compound, even after dilution, may cause some irritation
for those with extremely sensitive skin.
You may, of course, choose this option if you have no known sensitivities
and have some extra time on your hands, as some people enjoy the process.
The process involves boiling and mixing everything together until you get a
smooth, consistent paste. This will act as the base for your shampoo. You
can then combine it with your chosen nourishing and therapeutic
ingredients.
If you want something gentler or prefer to use purer ingredients, another
solution to making your shampoo is baking soda , which you may
conveniently already have in your pantry at home. Baking soda is a gentle,
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alkaline ingredient that effectively removes dirt and chemical build-up in

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your hair. It is mild, yet still

powerful enough to cleanse impurities and give your hair extra volume and
shine. Other people have found great results with the effects of apple cider
vinegar . This all-natural ingredient acts as a mild acidic base that can
regulate the pH balance of your hair. Use quality, organic vinegar for best
results and extra
shine. This option is especially recommended for those with oily or tangled
hair due to over-styling or having long or curly locks. Apple cider vinegar is
just as effective as baking soda, so feel free to try them both to see which
option works best for your hair type. You should use one tablespoon of
baking soda or apple cider vinegar per one cup of water as a general ratio
when preparing your
shampoo. Adjust quantities as desired. Another simple cleansing agent
alternative is liquid soap. Liquid Castile Soap , made from 100% plant-based
oils (typically olive or coconut oil), is praised as a
gentle yet effective cleansing base for shampoo, particularly for those who
enjoy a slight foaming effect. This cleansing agent is gentle on the skin
making it perfect for those with a dry or sensitive scalp. A little goes a long
way.

Extra Nutrition Through Herbs and Plants

Although essential oils contain a concentrated quantity of nutrients from
the plant or fruit they were extracted from, you may add further
nourishment to your shampoo (or other hair care products) by means of
raw, natural herbs . Just like preparing a tea, you can boil and brew the
plants of your choice and use this
nutritive, aromatic liquid in your formula. Baking soda, apple cider vinegar,
or liquid Castile soap will cleanse your hair ; essential oils and carrier oils will
deeply hydrate and nourish your hair ; and
added herbs, plants or fruits will provide additional nutrients to the hair and
scalp . The perfect combination for healthful hair care, not to mention a
pleasure for your senses! And what about conditioner? Much like creating
shampoo, you will need nourishing plant ingredients and oils of your choice,
plus a toning, yet very mild agent such as vinegar or lemon juice. Use
essential oils and carrier oils in moderate quantities, dependent on how oily
or dry your hair is. So now that you know how easy and enjoyable it is to
make your own natural hair products, let’s move on to see exactly what
ingredients and quantities you need for certain hair types.
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57
Nourishing Organic Care for Normal Hair

Shampoo and Conditioner

Stimulating Carrot Seed Oil Shampoo

Ingredients:
• Water (1 cup)
• Maple Syrup (2 tablespoons)
• Carrot Seed Essential Oil (5-10 drops)
• Jojoba Oil (10 drops)
• Liquid Castile Soap (1/3 cup) or cleansing agent of choice
Directions: Combine all ingredients together into a consistent mixture,
shake well, and wash your hair with desired quantity. Rinse well and apply
your conditioner of choice afterwards. Use shampoo within one month. Best
stored in refrigerator.
Benefits: This shampoo is particularly beneficial for dry hair or dandruff,
giving a vitamin boost from the carrot seed oil. Carrot seed oil is purifying,
detoxifying, and stimulating with a mild aroma. It improves your circulation,
stimulates growth, strengthens your hair, and aids in any scalp dryness.
Jojoba oil dilutes the carrot seed essential oil and adds extra hydration to
the formula. Its structure resembles our natural sebum, which adds
elasticity and is not greasy. Maple syrup is soothing and deeply nourishing
with wonderful antibacterial properties. Your shampoo will have a warm,
energizing sensation.

Nutritious and Aromatic Orange Oil Shampoo

Ingredients:
• Coconut Milk (1/3 cup)
• Liquid Castile Soap (½ cup)
• Orange Essential Oil (10 drops)
• Castor Oil (10 drops)
Directions: Add all ingredients into a container and shake well until all
ingredients are combined. Lather and wash hair with desired quantity and
rinse well. Use shampoo within one month. Best stored in refrigerator.
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Benefits: This shampoo is extremely nourishing due to coconut milk’s high
vitamin and mineral content, containing high levels of vitamin E, C, B1, B 3,
B5, B6, calcium, magnesium, iron, and selenium. You can choose a particular
coconut oil that is suitable for your hair; for example, you may use a thicker
coconut milk for normal hair that contains about 20% fat. Coconut milk acts
as a
balm that nourishes hair intensively from root to tip and is beneficial for hair
repair, preventing hair loss, detangling and hydrating, as well as stimulating
hair growth. Orange oil is loaded with antioxidants and adds a fresh,
enchanting fragrance that your senses will love. It nourishes the hair
without feeling heavy
or greasy. You will see your hair becoming thicker and stronger when using
this shampoo regularly.

Products for Dry and Brittle Hair

Hydrating Aloe Vera, Glycerin, and Geranium Essential Oil

Shampoo
Ingredients:
• Water (½ cup)
• Liquid Castile soap (½ cup)
• Aloe Vera Gel (1/3 cup)
• Glycerin (1 teaspoon)
• Almond Oil (2-3 teaspoons)
• Geranium Essential Oil (10 drops)
Directions: Add all ingredients into a container and shake well until
combined. Lather desired amount into hair, then rinse well. Use shampoo
within one month.

Benefits: This shampoo is extraordinarily refreshing and hydrating and

offers dry hair the perfect balance. Glycerin will give a deep treatment to
dry scalp and dry hair, will define curls and minimize frizz. Keep in mind
glycerin must be diluted for best results. This shampoo may not be suitable
for those who use permanent hair dye. Almond oil is packed with vitamins
and minerals and is recommended for damage and split ends. Aloe Vera
contains enzymes and valuable alkalizing properties that can naturally
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balance the pH level of your scalp, removing dry, dead cells and promoting
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hair growth. It also acts to alleviate irritation and

itching. Geranium essential oil promotes circulation, has an overall calming
effect and adds a pleasant, mild fragrance. Both hair loss and dry, damaged
hair can be treated with this shampoo.

Refreshing and Tropical Papaya and Rosemary Oil Mask

Ingredients:
• Coconut Milk (½ cup)
• Papaya (2-3 slices)
• Almond Oil (2-3 tablespoons)
• Rosemary Essential Oil (5-7 drops)

Directions: Blend the coconut milk with the papaya flesh and add the oils.
Blitz everything together in your blender until you achieve a creamy
consistency. Apply evenly to your hair and let sit for at least 20-25 minutes.
Rinse well and gently towel dry.

Benefits: Papaya is extremely refreshing and aromatic, giving your hair a

vitamin and mineral boost. Papain (an enzyme present in papaya) is known
for removing dead cells, activating the production of new ones and
preventing hair loss. It works great as a nourishing base for your mask
thanks to its soft and

Nails
Nails are an appendage of the skin. Neatly trimmed nails of uniform color,
whether natural or applied, have always been considered a mark of good grooming
nails originates in the epidermal layer of the skin, and their condition is dependent on
the body’s overall health. The hair on your head and nails on your fingers and toes
seem very different, but in fact they are very much alike. Both can be cut without pain
and both provide protection for the areas that they cover. Both contain the chemical
substance keratin, but nails are harder and stronger than hair. Nails also grow about
¼ inch per month. But slowly than hair. Nothing you can apply to the nails will cause
them to grow, but a good diet can help produce healthy nails.
The technical term for nail is only and study of nails is called onychology.
Nails can be defined translucent plates of hard keratin lying fused
with nail bed except at distal end.
Nails grow continuously throughout life. Rate of growth of finger nails
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varies growth of finger nails can be higher or depressed temporarily in certain

diseases.
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 Nails are very tough sheet of keratin growing from epidermis of
dorsal surface of toes and fingers.
STRUCTURE OF NAIL
The nails are hard and durable epidermal appendages and are
located on the dorsal aspects of the distal phalanges of every finger and toe. The
epidermis of nail is similar to that of skin but has no stratum corneum or stratum
grauloseum and no hair follicle, sweat glands present.
Nails start their growth just under the fold of skin at the point
where you see the nail emerging from the flesh.
The nail is made up of impacted and adhering layers of
flattened cells which have lost their nuclei. The cells contain hard keratin, similar to
that of hair, with high sulphur content, mainly in the form of cystein, which comprises
about 9-10% of the weight of the nail. The keratin fibrils are mainly oriented parallel to
the nail surface from side to side.
Anatomically the nail consists of following components.
1) The root
2) The nail plate
3) Nail matrix
4) Lunula
5) Eponychium
6) Cuticle
7) Nail bed
8) Nail folds
9) Hyponychium
10) Soft tissues around and under it.

11)
1) Nail plate:-it is made up of hard keratin; it is a horny rectangular translucent plate.
Its thickness various from 0.5-0.75mm basically nail plate is made up of flattened
cells which have lost their nuclei and these cells contain keratin.
It is generally converse in both longitudinal and transverse axes,
although there is much variation between individuals and between the different
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digits of the same individual.

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Histological, the nail plate consist of three horizontal layers,

 a) A thin dorsal lamina
b) A thicker intermediate layer
c) A ventral layer
The ventral layer makes up nearly 1/5 th of the ultimate nail
thickness is derived from the nail bed. The rest of the nail plate is derived from the
nail matrix. Except for its distal free edge, the nail plate inserts into grooves in the
skin that are deeper proximally and shallower laterally known as distal groove.
The two lateral grooves are mark or draw the boundaries of folds of
overhanging skin called as lateral nail folds.
These lateral nail folds are conteneous with the proximal nail folds which
overhangs the proximal groove. The proximal nail folds are similar in structure to the
adjacent skin and possess all the four layers present in the normal epidermis.
2) Nail matrix:-the germinative portion of the nail is the nail matrix. It produces the
major part of the nail plate. The nail matrix extends to the outer edge of lunula.
The germinative epithelium of the nail matrix consist of basal cells that produce
keratinocytes which differentiate, harden, die and contribute to the nail plate. The
nail matrix also contains melanocytes in the lowest two cell layer. The
melanocytes in the distal portion of the matrix are more numerous.
3) Lunula:- a whitish moon shaped area called the lunula is seen just distal to the
proximal nail fold on fingernail. The lunula is generally visible on the thumb nails but
less seen so on the other digits and usually not visible on the nails of little fingers. The
nail near to the lunuka is usually pink in colour with the translucent nail plate reflecting
the rich color of the underlying vascular bed. The white colour of lunula is the result of
incomplete keratinization of the nail plate or the thick matrix epithelium.
Eponychium: - it is an anterior extension of the root of proximal nail fold on to the nail
plate or skin touching nail at root of nails is called eponychium.
4)Eponychium:- it is an anterior extension of the root of proximal nail fold on to the
nail plate or skin touching nail at root of nails is called as eponychium.
5) cuticle:-extending distally for 1-2 mm from the proximal nail fold on the nail plate is
a thin transparent membrane called the cutical. The cuticle composedof modifed
stratum corneum cells. It seals off the potential space between the proximal nail fold
and the nail plate and these protects the underlying germinative matrix from
enviroment results.
6) nail bed:- the soft tissue upon which the nail plate rests is called the nail bed. As a
whole it consist of epithelium overlying a rich vascular dermis. The nail bed epidermal
layer is usually no more than 2-3 cell thick. The nail bed also contain collagen fibrils.
7) hyponychium:- the distal portion of the nail bed, seperated by a groove is a narrow
zone of skin called as hyponychium that merge with the volar skin of the tip of the digit.
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COMPOSITION OF NAIL
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 Nail plates like hair contain a group of tough, fibrous protein called keratin. The nail
plate is made up of impacted and adhering layers of flattened cells which have lost
their nuclei. The keratin has high sulpur content, mainly in the form of cysteine, which
comprises about 9-12% of the weight of the nail. The keratin fibrils are mainly oriented
parallel to the nail surface from side to side. Nail contains about 7-12% of moisture
and 0.15-0.76% of fat, a little more (1.38%) in intents. Calcium constitutes about 0.02-
0.04% of the weight and could not contribute to the hardness and this amount may be
derived from the environment. Calcium is present in higher concentration in the elderly
about 1%. Sulphur in the form of cystein 9-12% and18-20% amino acid present. The
water content of nails varies between 10-30% and is directly related to the relative
humidity. It contributes to the hardness of the plate.
Rate of nail growth-
Nails, unlike hair grow continuously throughout life. And stop only at death. The
apparent growth of the nail for 2-3 days after death is the result of shrinkage of soft
tissues around the nail. The rate of growth varies considerably from person to person
and under different physiological conditions in the same person. No differences found
over the age range of 19-23 yrs. No sexual differences and only a very slight difference
between hands, growth on the right being faster. However, there were differences
between fingers, nails grows at the rate of approx. 0.1mm per day means between
0.5-1.2mm per week. Toe nails grow at rate of one third of this rate.
To replace a finger nail completely takes about 5/2 months and toe nail about 12-18
months. The growth may be temporarily depressed in some infective diseases, and
some disorders.
Physiological and environmental factors also affect the rate of nail growth.
FASTER GROWTH SLOWER GROWTH
Day time night
pregnancy First day of life
Right hand nails Left hand nails
youth old age
fingers toes
summer Winter and cold environment
Middle finger, rig finger and index finger Thumb and little finger
BLOOD SUPPLY
The nail bed and matrix have a rich supply of blood from two arterial arches which lie
below the nail plate. These arterial arches are proximal and distal. This accessory
blood supply permits the normal growth of the nail. The capillary blood supply to the
tissues around the nail is abundat.
PATHOLOGY OF THE NAILS-
Abnormalities of structure and appearance of the nails are of many kinds and can have
many causes:-genetic, infective or environmental. The disorders of nails found
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generally are absence of nails, nail shedding (nail lost), onycholysis (separation of nail
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from its bed), brittleness, nail splitting, nail pitting etc.

DEVELOPMENT AND FORMATION OF NAIL
The nails start to develop in the nine-week human embryo from nail folds, of
epidermis on the dorsal tip of each digit and by the twentieth week they are
complete.
There are three possible methods of nail formation,
a) Traditional view- the bed plays no part and that the nail is formed solely by
proliferation of keratinizing cells from a proximal matrix which starts at the
proximal limit of the fold.
b) Seconded view- a second view is that the nail is formed in three layers. The
dorsal and intermediate nail comes from the traditional matrix, but there is
also a ventral layer which is formed from the nail bed distal to the lunula.
c) Third view= in this the nail bed is divided into three zones namely a proximal
matrix, an intermediate sterile bed and a distal fertile matrix (the sole horn)
which contributes a small quantity of material to the underside of nail.

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