Datça Rock Climbing Guide
Datça Rock Climbing Guide
com
GUIDE TO
ROCK CLIMBING IN
DATÇA
BY THECRAG
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© theCrag Pty Ltd
[Link]
Cover Image
Jon Shen in Zaman (8b), Sector Can Baba, Indian Man
Photo by Solveig Korherr
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WARNING
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious
injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or
indirectly available from this guide do so at their own risk.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information
refer to theCrag Site Usage Policy and Licensing of IP User
Content at [Link]
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SAFETY & EMERGENCY
Even though most crags around Datça are not far from the city,
many cliffs do not see lots of traffic. Depending on the season you
might be alone at a place that requires hiking on steep trails and
only has limited to no cell phone coverage.
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ABOUT THIS GUIDE
Most content was provided by the initial developers, namely
Olivier Nicolet, Adrien Boulon and Nicolas Nastorg who all added
their information directly or indirectly on theCrag. Lots of
additional information was contributed by the climbing community
and as such this guide is an extract from the rock climbing
community database [Link] and uses the same
definitions, icons and notations.
Bolt counts: Bolt counts are given without the anchor. Bring one
or the other quick draw more to be on the safe side.
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DATÇA - OVERVIEW
D
atça is located on the long and narrow Datça peninsula in
south western Turkey in the province of Muğla. The touristy
town of Marmaris marks the beginning of the peninsula in the
east while at the extreme end of the western tip of the
peninsula is the ancient city of Knidos. The city of Datça is located
about halfway in between on the southern coast of the peninsula
facing the Greek island of Symi.
Datça is a small, layback town with about 10.000 inhabitants.
Even though it is a popular summer holiday destination it lacks the
big hotels and tourist attractions that are otherwise so common on
the Turkish coast which makes it a really pleasant town to enjoy
and visit.
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GETTING THERE
You may reach Datça by various means and via different
destinations:
• Fly into Dalaman and take a taxi bus leaving almost after every
flight arriving (2 to 3 hours).
• Fly into Bodrum and take a short ferry ride over to Datça. Be
sure to check the schedule as the ferry runs not every day
during winter.
• Fly to Izmir and drive to Datça which will take between 4 and 5
hours.
• Drive from Antalya (about 5 hours drive along the coast), a
great option if you also plan on climbing in Geyikbayırı.
• Take a ferry from Kalymnos, Greece to Bodrum and from there
to Datça (check if the ferry is running as the schedule varies
depending on the season).
WHERE TO STAY
The best place to stay near the main climbing areas is Datça
Base Camp. It offers camping and a few bungalows to rent and
some space for caravans. It is also a good place to meet other
climbers and to obtain the latest beta.
Alternatively, check one of the many pensions or boutique
hotels in Datça and rent a scooter or car to move around.
Check out the Plan your Trip section on theCrag for latest
offers and pricing.
GETTING AROUND
Even if you stay at a camp site closer to the cliffs, you are
better off if you have your own transportation. Either to go
climbing and explore the many sectors available, to go for dinner
or shopping if you stay at the camp site or just to explore the
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beautiful area and the remote beaches on your rest days. Rent a
car or scooter and you will have so much more from your visit to
this amazing place.
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CLIMBING HISTORY & BOLTING
Datça is a relatively recent addition on the climbing map. The
area was discovered by Olivier Nicolet, a Swiss mountain guide,
who also did most of the development in the years 2013 to 2016
with the support of climbers from France, Turkey and elsewhere.
You will read many names in the route history in this guide but to
name a few of the most prolific bolters there are Adrien Boulon,
Nicolas Nastorg, Emrah Özbay, Zorbey Aktuyun, Evren Kirazli,
Yvan Muscat, Werner Luneau, Fabrice
Pini, Aykut Knidost, Rafsta, Lucien Abbet
and Klemen Becan.
Most of the bolting was financed by
Olivier Nicolet, Adrien Boulon and Yvan
Muscat and through generous
donations by climbers such as Fabrice
Pini, Claudia Schrotter and Pierre
Morand.
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Overview map of the climbing areas around Datça
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Most of the crags around Datça are just a few minutes away
from the city. The main crag and the reason for many to visit Datça
is Indian Man with its impressive main cave called Can Baba. Even
if you spend most of your time up there don’t forget to explore
some of the other sectors as well.
Indian Man with its sectors Uzak Zürafa, Can Baba, Ejderha, Ay,
Shaman, Papynosaure and Nastrolopitheque holds about two
thirds of the routes around Datça and there are literally all styles
of climbing and grade ranges at your disposition.
Opposite of Indian Man is the small sector Çocuklar (“kids”)
which is great for beginners and kids with very well bolted lines.
Just a bit further up the road from Indian Man are the “morning
sectors” for hotter days called Domuzbükü, Karain (another small
cave), and Sucuk and the multi-pitch cliff Karia Yolu.
Across the valley of Sucuk is the short and bouldery sector of
Balık and on the north side of Indian Man is the small sector
Yenikale, another good destination for hotter days.
Located above the village of Hızırşah is the sector with the
same name. An ideal cliff for hot days as it is oriented north and
well ventilated.
On the north side of the peninsula is the area called canyon
with several sectors. The drive alone is worth the visit and you will
encounter great, hard and long lines that see little traffic there.
The sector Les Frouzes is amongst the most impressive cliffs on
the peninsula and the potential for more developments is endless.
This is also true for the small sector of Emecik east of Datça
that offers vertical climbing on chert and offers amazing views on
cold and windy days.
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Go kite-surfing in Gökova (between Marmaris and Muğla), one
of the most famous kite-surfing spots worldwide. It can be quite
crowded though.
Hang out on the beach, try Pembe Beach (pink beach) to start
with. Continue the road from Domuzbükü left until it heads east
and then take the first right that takes you down on a winding
road to the beach. This is also a nice entry point for the Carian
Trail that you can hike from there to the east or west. Another
great place to explore for those that enjoy lost places is Mersincik
on the north western end of the peninsula. Drive to Cumalı and
take a right. This rather rough road will take you high up and then
down to the northern coast. Hike east from there to find amazing
beaches and plenty of cliffs that wait to be developed!
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INDIAN MAN
D
o you see the head? Legend has it that two brothers were
fighting on the Datça peninsula. To stop the fighting, the
father laid down between the two, separating the peninsula
and creating peace. Today, we just see his profile when
driving west towards Datça...
Indian Man is the epicentre of climbing in Datça with multiple
sectors and hundreds of routes in all grades. The cave of Can
Baba, for many the reason to visit Datça, can be found here as
well as Uzak Zürafa with its many long and mostly easier routes.
Cold days are great for the sectors Shaman, Papinosaure and
Nastrolopitheque.
For those who love a short approach check out Sektor Ay at
the bottom of the valley. A sunny cliff with routes in many grades
is Ejderha, located just below Can Baba and also easy to reach
from Sektor Ay by following the cliff line up.
Although you might be tempted to climb only at Indian Man
during your visit, do not forget to check out the many other cliffs
located around Datça.
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Indian Man Sectors as seen from across the Valley
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APPROACH
From Datça drive in direction of Marmaris until you reach
Reşadiye (about 5km from the center of Datça). At the traffic light
(shortly after the petrol stations) take a left in direction of Knidos
and the ferry for Bodrum. Shortly after that, follow the signs for
Knidos (take a left in direction West) and follow the road for about
2km until you see a Y-junction turn off on your left on a dirt road
(there might be a sign for Yeşil Bahçe).
Follow this dirt road until you see a big camp / picknick area on
the right and a turn-off to the left that leads down to the wash.
Park either in front of the camp site (36.72888, 27.62483) or
continue down and across the wash and for about 100 meters to
the parking along the road (just very few spots) (36.72393,
27.62276).
Follow the approach description for each sector from here.
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AY
south 5-10min
Description
Ay means moon in Turkish. This sector offers perfect vertical
rock full of mini-pockets, sometimes sharp. Great technical
climbing with a very short approach. The sector is in the sun
almost all day but the base is shaded by trees.
Approach
You have 2 choices to approach this cliff. If you are already up
at the cave follow the trail down along the cliff passing at sector
Ejderha and leading further down. It is relatively well marked.
Eventually it will lead you to Sektor Ay.
If you just want to climb at Sektor Ay, you may as well park as
for Can Baba. Then enter the wash and hike downstream for
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about 50m until you find a well marked trail going up left and
leading you directly to the sector.
Routes
3 Ay 33m 6c+
Set by Fabrice Pini
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no name length bolts grade
5 Bonfile pene 27m 6b
Set by Olivier Nicolet
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EJDERHA
Description
Ejderha means dragon in Turkish. Long slabs and vertical grey
rock full of pockets, not only ideal for beginners… A good place
for colder days but the base is not the most comfortable one,
especially for kids.
Approach
Hike up as for Can Baba and follow the cliff down for a little bit
on the far right side.
Alternatively you may hike up from Sektor Ay along the cliff.
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Routes
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no name length bolts grade
5 Dans le pantalon 20m 6c+
Set by Lucien Abbet & Olivier Nicolet, Jan 2016
7 Variante 35m 6a
Set by Lucien Abbet & Olivier Nicolet, Jan 2016
12 4 in a pocket 20m 7?
Set by Rafsta, Dec 2014
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CAN BABA
Description
The Big cave, dedicated to the really famous Turkish poet Can
Ucel, Can Baba is one of the most impressive tufa caves around.
The bottom of the cliff is super comfortable and well protected
from rain. The left side of the cave (from Knidos on) is first in the
shade, the right, south facing side (starting with Bouldervar) is in
the shade from mid-afternoon on.
Approach
From the parking for Indian Man hike back until the road is
closest to the wash and look out for cairns to find a well marked
trail crossing the wash and leading up to the cliff.
Alternatively you may also hike up from Sektor Ay on a steeper
trail along the cliff.
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Routes
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no name length bolts grade
1 Milkyway 45m 20 7c+
Set by Rafsta, Nov 2014
2 Solucan 45m 8a
An epic and endless ride along the single black tufa.
Set by Adam Okrasinski & Olivier Nicolet, Oct 2014
3 Esperanto 45m 21 8c
Set by Rafsta, Nov 2014
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no name length bolts grade
Extension of "Fire in the black hole L2”.
Set by Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015
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no name length bolts grade
11 Radio Datça 35m 11 7c+
Set by Benjamin Coup, Nov 2015
17 Üstsüz 26m 7b
Same first 3 bolts as Yelmek, then go right.
Set by Fabrice Pini, May 2014
18 Tubular Bell 14 7b
A variant of Üstsüz branching out right at the tufas.
Set by Michel Piola
19 Il giardino del sirena 28m 7b+
Set by Emrah Özbay, May 2013
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no name length bolts grade
Extension 1 of "Il giardino del sirena" (2nd pitch).
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Sep 2014
21 Out of next life 8a+
This is the line to an anchor just before the hard crux of "Out of
energy" (3rd pitch).
FA: Adrien Boulon
22 Out of energy (project) 55m 9a
Extension of "Out of next life" (4th pitch).
Set by Klemen Becan, Nov 2014
23 Out of energy - variant (proj.) 9a+
A right variant of "Out of energy". Climb the first few bolts including
the hard crux and then follow the right line of expansion bolts.
Set by Sébastien Bouin
24 Brocoli extension (project) 70m 9a
Extension of "Out of energy" (5th pitch).
Set by Klemen Becan, Nov 2014
25 Rüzgar 27m 11 7b+
The line starting with the obvious pockets.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Mar 2013
26 Toprak 45m 8a
Extension of Rüzgar.
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015
27 Meltem 27m 14 7b/b+
Set by Olivier Nicolet & Evren Kirazli, Mar 2013
28 Meltemosore 45m 22 8a
Extension of Meltem. Shares the anchor with Zaman / Zor.
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015
29 Turkish Moon 30m 16 8c
Going up through the almost white crescent.
Set by Werner Luneau & Adrien Boulon, Nov 2014
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no name length bolts grade
30 Helmet and Katana 30m 13 8a
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no name length bolts grade
The route name is written on the rock. Finishes at the big hole,
watch out for the owl that might live in there :-).
Set by Klemen Becan, Nov 2014
31 Zaman 45m 19 8b
Extension of Helmet and Katana. Shares the anchor with
Meltemosore.
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015
32 Limit of explosion (project) 55m 9a
Right extension of Helmet and Katana (2nd pitch).
Set by Klemen Becan, Nov 2014
33 Over the limite (project) 70m 9b
Extension of "Limit of explosion" (3rd pitch). Grade to be confirmed.
Set by Klemen Becan, Nov 2014
34 Çeşme 23m 12 6c+
Starts with a slabby section followed by technical climbing and a
short, steeper section with tufas to the anchor.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jan 2014
35 Kumpir 20m 8 6b+
Goes up the vertical section inside the cave.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jan 2014
36 Fort comme un tuc 30m 13 8b+
Same start as Can Baba but then head left before the anchor to the
big hole and the anchor of Helmet and Katana.
Set by Adrien Boulon, Feb 2015
37 Zor 45m 19 8b+/c
Climb "Fort comme un tuc" and the extension called Zaman to
make it Zor. Shares the anchor with Meltemosore.
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015
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no name length bolts grade
38 Can Baba 25m 9 6c+
The classic line at the bottom of the cave. Follows the line left of
the obvious tufa. A must do.
Set by Zorbey Aktuyun, Mar 2013
39 Big Can Baba 35m 18 8b+
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no name length bolts grade
Extension of "Can baba”. Climbs to the anchor of Keurban.
Set by Zorbey Aktuyun
40 Liquide comme une flaque 25m 8 7b+
Just to the right of Can Baba on the less structured wall.
Set by Benjamin Coup, Feb 2015
41 What the mic mac 25m 10 7c+
Straight up and then a bit right trending to the anchor just below
the big hole. Initially graded 7c. In 2021 a hold broke, making it
rather 7c+.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Apr 2014
42 Big Mac 45m 18 8b/b+
Extension of "What the mic mac". Continues just right of the big hole
to join Big Can Baba and and climbs to the anchor of Keurban.
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015
43 Bouldervar 28m 11 7c+
Start off to the right of the big massive penis like hanging tufa
through a small roof, sustain with a crux in the middle
Set by Werner Luneau & Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2014
44 Keurban 45m 8a+
Extension of Bouldervar. Climbs to the anchor of Big Can Baba.
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015
45 Testere 28m 9 7c
Powerful and tricky. Shares the anchor with "La française des vieux".
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Jan 2015
46 La française des vieux 28m 8 8a
Left trending line with awesome technical and poweful climbing.
Shares the anchor with Testere.
Set by Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015
47 Kanunsuz 17m 7 7a
Starts between the first dark grey slabby tufas at the bottom of the
wall and passes left of the stalagtite before the anchor.
Set by Zorbey Aktuyun, Jun 2014
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no name length bolts grade
48 A muerte bicho 55m 8b+
Extension of Kanunsuz. Shares anchor with "Limit of explosion".
Set by Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015
49 Rockumantary 25m 11 7c
Set by Zorbey Aktuyun, Jun 2014
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Solveig Korherr on Zor (8c), Foto by Jon Shen
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UZAK ZÜRAFA
Description
Sector ranging from well bolted slabs for beginners to vertical
and technical routes with some hard extensions. The left side of
the cliff stays in the sun till late morning while the right side, closer
to Can Baba, sees shade a bit earlier.
Approach
Same as for Can Baba. Uzak Zürafa is actually the first sector
you reach where the trail hits the impressive cliff. Some routes on
the left but most to the right in direction Can Baba.
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- 37 - [Link]
Routes
no name length bolts grade
37m,
1 Aphrodite (3 pitches) 25m, 15 6b
25m
First pitch shares anchor with "Just perfect". This route has potential
to be continued further up to the top of Indian Man.
Set by Olivier Nicolet & Ulf Fuchslueger, Sep 2014
2 Just perfect 37m 14 6b
Runnels and pockets all the way on this long journey to the anchor
of Aphrodite. Can obviously also be used as alternative pitch 1 to
access pitch 2 of Aphrodite.
Set by Anja Becan, Nov 2014
3 Gospa vrtnarka 35m 14 6a
Set by Anja Becan, Nov 2014
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no name length bolts grade
Hike up a few meters and go left on the small ramp / ledge to a line
of glue-ins.
Set by Olivier Nicolet
9 What da funk 30m 11 6a+
Nice climbing on grey rock followed by some tufa style pockets.
Set by Evren Kirazli, Mar 2013
10 Baslamah 30m 12 6b+
Easier climbing to a distinct crux higher up.
Set by Rafsta, Feb 2014
11 Göslamah 25m 10 6a+
Follow the crack line and then trend slightly left.
Set by Rafsta, Feb 2014
12 R.A.T 20m 10 6a+/b
Another line of glue-ins, starting on grey rock and after 4, 5 bolts
continuing on yellowish and reddish rock.
Set by Rafsta, Nov 2014
13 Uzak Zürafa 35m 13 6b+
The route that has the big, deep hole just above bolt 2. Climb the
grey slab up to an orange section where the crux is.
Set by Zorbey Aktuyun, Mar 2013
14 Acipayam 25m 10 7a
Set by Zorbey Aktuyun, Mar 2013
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no name length bolts grade
Extension of "Ilegal Man".
Set by Adrien Godat
18 Raki Broccoli 22m 11 6c
A technical slab climb on ‘broccoli’ features.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Nov 2014
19 Lonely Wolf 30m 11 7a+
Starts right where you hike up the last blocks before arriving at the
level of the cave. Look for some tufas left above the anchor of
Dionisos. The anchor is on the vertical section.
Set by David Gambus, Dec 2014
20 Fue buonito mientras duro 40m 8a
3 bolt extension of Lonely Wolf.
Set by David Gambus, Dec 2014
21 Insomnio Turco 60m 8c
Extension of "Fue buonito mientras duro".
Set by David Gambus, Dec 2014
22 Dionisos 20m 9 6b
Small crimps, technical climbing at its finest.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Nov 2014
23 Efes efect 20m 9 6b+
Just 2 meters right of Dionisos.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Nov 2014
24 Pocket Dog 20m 11 6c
Another great technical climb, high feet, one or the other small
crimp, great moves.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Nov 2014
25 Magic Room 40m 19 8a
Left extension of Pocket Dog. Pass right of the anchor of Pocket
Dog and clip the bolt there. Follow the left bolt-line with a small roof
for this extension.
Set by David Gambus, Dec 2014
26 Respect Datça 37m 18 7c+
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no name length bolts grade
Middle extension of Pocket Dog. Pass right of the anchor of Pocket
Dog and clip the bolt there. Follow up through the drak grey stripe
from there. There is one more extension going out left and one
more further right, all starting with this bolt.
Set by David Gambus, Dec 2014
27 Nice Future 55m 8c+
Extension of "Respect Datça".
Set by David Gambus, Dec 2014
28 Hayal 37m 20 7c+
Right extension of Pocket Dog. Pass right of the anchor of Pocket
Dog and clip the bolt there. Follow up through the dark orange
section of rock and follow the rightmost bolt-line.
Set by Werner Luneau, Dec 2014
29 La Rambo 20m 7 7a
Small gastons and crimps all the way. First bolt is just under the
undercling flake.
Set by Rafsta, Nov 2014
30 El Bronson 22m 9 7b
Another technical climb going up left of the big flake. The sting is in
the last few bolts.
Set by Rafsta, Nov 2014
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SHAMAN
Description
Beautiful compact grey rock. This sector is high but the routes
are bolted in 3 pitches, the lower pitches are between 5b and 7b,
the middle ones between 6c+ and 7c, and the third ones above
7c. Great climbing for cold days as it is very sunny.
Approach
Same as for Uzak Zürafa but just before you reach the cliff,
take the obvious trail to the left, first flat and then going up along
the cliff. Take the first turn-off to the right to reach the right end of
Shaman, hard to miss. See also the overview topo for Indian Man.
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Routes
- 43 - [Link]
no name length bolts grade
1 Yildiz 18m 11 5b
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Mar 2015
2 Kosmos 20m 10 5c
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Mar 2015
9 El kedi 18m 9 6b
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015
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no name length bolts grade
12 Arcator 40m 20 7c+
Extension of Nico3D (2nd pitch).
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015
13 L3 Nator 55m 25 8a
Extension of Arcator (3rd pitch).
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015
14 Escalator 20m 8 6b
Same start as Nico3D but right (straight) exit. Starts at the crack /
broken corner just left of the bulge.
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015
15 Remake up 45m 21 8a
Extension of Escalator.
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015
16 Mercan dede 20m 11 6b+
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jan 2015
17 Wazabi 40m 21 7b
Extension of Mercan dede (2nd pitch).
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015
18 Orkinos 55m 28 8a+
Extension of Wazabi (3rd pitch). Shares anchor with "Be brave,
escape!".
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015
19 Serial kinder 20m 11 7a
Shares anchor with "Never stop Köfteing".
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Mar 2015
20 Never stop Köfteing 20m 10 7c
Shares anchor with "Serial kinder". The right route that starts in the
bulge.
Set by Adrien Boulon & Yannik Bonnin, Mar 2015
21 Zenith 20m 12 7a
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no name length bolts grade
Set by Yannik Bonnin, Jan 2015
28 Körfezi 50m 19 7c
Extension of "Görkova".
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015
29 Shaman 33m 14 6c
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Mar 2015
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no name length bolts grade
32 Incantation 33m 14 7a+
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Mar 2015
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PAPINOSAURE
Description
Just around the corner from Shaman you find slabby and
vertical face climbing, very well bolted ideal for beginners and
well protected from the wind.
Approach
Same as for Shaman and continue the trail up for a little bit.
See also the overview topo for Indian Man.
- 48 - [Link]
Routes
- 49 - [Link]
no name length bolts grade
1 Trous bas d’ours 27m 6a+
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Nov 2015
2 Crackouille 27m 6b
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Nov 2015
5 Dalouz 35m 6c
Same start as Erdictator but then right.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Nov 2015
6 Diedro 36m 6a
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Nov 2015
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NASTROLOPITHEQUE
west 30 - 45 min
Description
This is a small yellow cave, slightly overhanging with a few
more easy routes further left on grey rock.
Approach
One of the longer approaches in Datça. Follow the now steep
path from Papinosaure up until you see the obvious cave.
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Routes
no name length bolts grade
Left Ramp (not drawn)
These 3 routes are left (a bit further up) of the small cave on grey rock.
1 Nastrologik 35m 5a
Set by Nicolas Nastorg
2 Nastrolopitheque 35m 5c
Set by Nicolas Nastorg
3 Nastral 35m 6a
Set by Nicolas Nastorg
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Cave
These are the routes in the obvious small cave.
6 Nastronator 40m 8a
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015
7 Nastrodamus 20m 7c
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015
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ÇOCUKLAR
west 5 min
Description
Çocuklar means kids in Turkish. This sector has easy access, a
safe belay area, short and well bolted routes which fit perfectly for
kids, beginners and more. On top of that it offers a great view of
the cave of Can Baba.
Approach
Drive and park as described for Indian Man. Approximately
where the pull-out for 2 cars is on the right for Can Baba you will
see a trail going up on the other side of the road. Initially it might
be hard to see but is very well marked and built with nice steps. It
leads you directly to the cliff.
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Routes
2 Nefes 10m 5a
Set by Olivier Nicolet, May 2014
4 Noa 15m 5b
Set by Aykut Özalp, May 2014
5 Eva 15m 5c
Set by Olivier Nicolet, May 2014
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no name length bolts grade
6 Mercan 15m 6a+
Set by Olivier Nicolet, May 2014
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KARIA YOLU
Description
This is the wall facing Can Baba. This big pinnacle has only 2
multipitch routes yet but waiting for more, trad, mixed or fully
bolted. "Match lunules" is already the big classic in Datca.
Approach
Drive in and park as for Can Baba or continue for about 200m
more and park on the right near the water source.
"Match Lunules" starts directly right of the water source, right
behind a bigger tree you will find the first bolt.
"Mekanim Datça Olsun" starts a bit left of the water source.
.
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Routes
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DOMUZBÜKÜ
Description
Beautiful sharp rock facing north west in the shade till 15:00.
This is one of the morning cliffs for summer.
Approach
Continue along the road after the parking for Can Baba until
there is a turn off to the left (with the signs for the Karian trail).
Park on the left before the turn off (36.71725, 27.61541). Hike for
about 80 meters on the road going left and find a trail (typically
there are cairns) going up on the left. The trail is relatively faint at
times but leads directly to the right end of the cliff. Scramble up
for the last few meters to the ledge.
- 60 - [Link]
Routes
3 Badem 20m 10 6c
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jul 2014
5 Cnide 20m 8 6b
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jul 2014
- 61 - [Link]
no name length bolts grade
Lower Sector
7 Karaarslan 3 23m 11 6b
On the far left, starting with the broken yellow / orange rock. Sharp
rock to climbing on water runnels.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jun 2014
8 Ilbis 18m 9 6b+/c
Sharp rock at lower, more difficult section leads on easier climbing
on water runnels.
Set by Aykut Özalp, Jun 2014
9 Yabanci 19m 10 6c
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jun 2014
13 Karakulak 18m 11 7b
The first of the 3 7b's at the right end of the cliff. Nice climbing
through the first few bolts leads to the crux and intense climbimg
on partially sharp holds to the anchor.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jun 2014
14 Tilki 20m 11 7b
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jun 2014
- 62 - [Link]
KARAIN
west 5 - 10 min
Description
Beautiful small cave, easy access, sheltered from north wind.
Don't forget to climb "croods".
Approach
Continue along the road after the parking for Can Baba until
there is a turn off to the left (with the signs for the Karian trail).
Park on the left before the turn off - same as for Domuzbükü
(36.71725, 27.61541). Hike for about 300 meters on the road going
left (pass the trail for Domuzbükü) and find the trail (typically there
are cairns) going up on the left. The trail leads directly to the cave.
- 63 - [Link]
Routes
- 64 - [Link]
no name length bolts grade
6 Yalin 20m 8a+
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Apr 2015
7 Karain 30m 8b
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Apr 2015
10 Ne yok 25m 8c
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Apr 2015
- 65 - [Link]
SUCUK
north, 5 - 10 min
north-west
Description
The best morning (shadow) cliff for hot days, all grades
available here and probably the best 7a+ and 7c+ around.
Approach
Continue on the road from the parking for Can Baba for a total
of 2.2km, passing straight at the junction with the signs for Karia
Yolu (the long distance hiking trail) and then taking a left at the
next Y-junction from where the road climbs up the hill. Park at a
nice flat spot on the right or directly 50m further up in the left
hairpin turn where the trail starts (36.71561, 27.60323).
Follow this well marked, almost flat trail towards the cliff.
- 66 - [Link]
Routes
- 67 - [Link]
no name length bolts grade
1 Ilyd 25m 10 7c+
Set by Rafsta, Feb 2014
Les merveilles de la 24m
2 12 7a
péninsule
Great line starting with a slab before the first powerful overhang
kicks in. Make your way up going left and right to a small surprise at
the anchor.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, May 2014
3 Confusion 24m 13 7a
Follow the dark grey stripe above the grey slab.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jun 2014
4 Saliangoz 24m 11 6b
Starts just 2 meters right of the dark grey stripe. Climb up the grey
slab (no bolts) and engage the slightly overhanging orange broken
rock of great quality.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jan 2014
5 tiptop 25m 13 6a
Starts on the hey slab and trends slightly left at bolt 4 and 5 before
going up high. Very homogeneous.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jan 2014
6 FisFis 25m 13 6a+
Great climbing on broken edges and ledges. Good footwork will
make it an easier climb.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, May 2014
7 Sucukcuk 18m 11 6a+
One of the shorter routes on this wall, passing left of the small pine
tree. Very well bolted with a distinct crux in the upper third.
Set by Allison Derlot, Feb 2014
8 Karia yolu 20m 9 6a+
A great line on nice grey rock with good holds and feet.
Set by Rafsta, Feb 2014
9 Thrace 24m 13 6b+
- 68 - [Link]
no name length bolts grade
In the corner just where the grey slab ends and the yellow
overhang begins. Follow the slightly overhanging crack / corner to
an easier grey slab.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, May 2014
10 MiniMalt 17m 9 7a
Set by Zorbey Aktuyun, Jun 2014
16 Esekarisi 25m 10 8c
Set by Adam Okrasinski, Oct 2014
- 69 - [Link]
no name length bolts grade
On the far right of the yellow overhang. Starts just left of the
obvious tufa with big holes and then passes right before ending on
a grey slab. Great climbing!
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jan 2014
20 Toucourtoudur 12m 6 7a+
Short route on the far right of the overhang with an anchor just
where the steep part ends.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Feb 2014
21 Pamuk alé ! 16m 9 6a
On the far right, climbs grey rock with broken edges and sidepulls.
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Feb 2014
- 70 - [Link]
BALIK
Description
This cliff faces south east and is best for cold days (with north
wind) or late afternoon during hot days. Short and powerful, this is
Datça's boulder gym. The right section is perfect for beginners.
Approach
From Datça drive in direction of Knidos. From the turn off to
Knidos (straight to the ferry) drive for about 6.5km until, after some
sharper turns, you see a dirt road going down left. Take this dirt
road and drive about 800m to a sharp turn right with a parking on
the left (lots of boxes for bees). Park there (36.717007,
21.7597696).
- 71 - [Link]
Follow the right edge of the parking (looks more like a garbage
dump) to find the path heading down to the cliff. It is not well
marked but you should see some cairns.
Routes
3 Ahtapot 14m 7 7b
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jan 2014
- 72 - [Link]
no name length bolts grade
7 Lambuka 15m 6 8a/a+
Set by Werner Luneau, Jan 2014
8 Kalkan 15m 7 8?
Grade not confirmed
Set by Werner Luneau, Jan 2014
9 Ucan Balik 15m 7 8a
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jan 2014
12 Halikarnas 10m 6 7c
Set by Zorbey Aktuyun, Jun 2014
13 Midye 10m 7 7c
Set by Zorbey Aktuyun, Jun 2014
Right Wall
The grey face about 50 meters to the right of the main wall with easier
routes.
15 Palamut 25m 6a
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Feb 2014
17 Hamsi 20m 5c
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Feb 2014
19 Melanuria 20m 5c
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Feb 2014
- 74 - [Link]
HIZIRŞAH
Description
Hızırşah is despite its not so easy access worth a visit. In the
shadow all day it is facing the north wind, ideal for hot days. Go
and find the panik room.
Approach
How long the approach to the cliff of Hızırşah is, depends
largely on the type of vehicle you have. Assuming you have a car
with reasonable ground clearance it can be quite short, otherwise
the hike is longer but not too bad.
Make your way to the village of Hızırşah by taking a left from
the road to Knidos at the cemetery of Hızırşah. Once you reach
the village, take the first road right (it is also marked with red/white
- 75 - [Link]
marks for the Karian trail) and follow it, first through the village and
then, as a dirt road, through various olive and other cultures. At
one point (you should see a big house a few hundred meters
away), take a left and start going uphill. The road becomes worse
and worse as you climb up, park wherever you can but at the
latest here at a small junction (36.729980, 27.641829). There is a
nice flat space on the left.
From there hike the last few meters of road up on the right and
follow the trail to the obvious goat cave. From there take a right
and follow the cliff through the bushes on faint trails. Once you
reach the corner, follow the steep gully up left to reach the cliff.
Routes
- 76 - [Link]
no name length bolts grade
1 Deniz manzara 25m 6b+
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Apr 2015
2 Endless 30m 12 8?
Set by Werner Luneau, Jan 2014
6 Knidians 18m 7 7b
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jan 2014
12 Poyraz 27m 12 7a
- 77 - [Link]
no name length bolts grade
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Oct 2013
- 78 - [Link]
L'OEIL DU CYCLOPE
Description
The big cave underneath the military installation on top of the
mountain. Can be seen from far as one of the most impressive
features in the area.
Mostly hard to very hard and long routes. In general, this crag
does not see a lot of traffic, be careful with falling rocks / tufas.
Grades may not be very accurate.
Discovered by Olivier Nicolet and Nina Caprez. Later mostly
developed by Adrian Boulon, Ivan Muscat, Sebastien Bouin,
Zorbey Aktuyun and Willam Barchelo.
- 79 - [Link]
Approach
From Datça drive in direction of Knidos, staying on the main
road and not taking the left to Indian Man. Pass the sector of
Yenikale (where the road climbs up) and just at the end of the
crash barrier on the right, take a right on a dirt road. Pass a small
transformer and park next to the bee hives on the left (36.7263,
27.5966).
Follow the road for another 50m or so and just before it starts
descending, hike up left through the forest (only minor trail marks)
for about 100m (keep slightly right) until you hit a better marked
trail with lots of cairns leading right almost on the same contour
line. Follow this trail to the crag. The last stretch is rather exposed
on loose gravel, be careful!
Routes
Routes are listed right to left!
- 80 - [Link]
no name length bolts grade
5 Stormy Daniels 8c
Left of Chich Cobrab.
Set by Ivan Muscat
6 LAL 55m 25 8a
7c to the first anchor.
Set by Zorbey Aktuyun
7 Colpo Grosso 45m 22 7c+
Set by Zorbey Aktuyun
8 Dilemma 45m 20 8a
Set by Zorbey Aktuyun
- 81 - [Link]
YENIKALE
north 5 min
Description
One of the cliffs for hotter days. It faces north and is vertical,
slightly overhanging and technical on really good quality rock.
Approach
Yenikale is located on the "back-side" of Indian Man. From
Datça follow the road as for Indian Man but instead of turning left
on the dirt road, continue on the main road in direction of Knidos.
Just before the road starts climbing with a crash barrier on the
right, take a left on a dirt road an park there on an abandoned
stretch of road on the right (36.73165, 27.61587) (this road actually
also leads to Indian Man).
From there hike up the main road until you see the yellowish
section of the cliff above you. Continue for a bit more to see the
- 82 - [Link]
actual trail starting up, passing right by a big block and leading to
the cliff.
Routes
- 83 - [Link]
no name length bolts grade
1 Minagick 15m 6a+
Set by Olivier Nicolet, Jan 2015
7 YetToBeNamed_04 25m 11 7b
Set by Rafsta, Jan 2015
- 84 - [Link]
CANYON
A
n amazing place in a breathtaking environment. A canyon with
cliffs on the left and right with unlimited potential for further
developments and some of the best cliffs of Datça. This
canyon is oriented straight South from the Northern shore of
the peninsula in a completely lost stretch of coastline. The Karian
trail passes at the parking from East to West and a donkey trail
leads through the canyon. You might as well find a secluded
beach further along the road to chill after a day of climbing.
This is the place to go for a full day of climbing. You may chase shade
or sun, depending on the season and enjoy the quietness of nature with
just the bees humming.
Be aware that the sectors here do not see a lot of traffic. Watch
out for loose rock, bee hives and such.
APPROACH
From Datça make your way in direction of Körmen Limani (the
harbour where the ferry for Bodrum leaves) on the northern shore
- 85 - [Link]
of the peninsula. About 300 meters before you reach the
shoreline, take a dirt road on the left. Keep right at the first Y-
junction and follow it for a bit more than 8km. Don't be surprised
when it climbs up before it goes back down to the coast. You will
see the obvious canyon coming from the left. Park there
(36.76159, 27.57044) and hike up the well marked donkey trail to
the different cliffs.
- 86 - [Link]
BOMBÉ
west 10-20min
Description
Sector facing the sector Les Frouzes. Still needs some
climbing… A great sector to climb in the morning before heading
over to Les Frouzes when the sun hits.
Approach
A short approach from the car, up the canyon and then you will
see the cliff on the left after the first section that climbs uphill a bit.
- 87 - [Link]
Routes
no name length bolts grade
1 Scorpio 25m 7c+/8a
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015
5 L’illusionniste 35m 8a
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015
6 Le magicien 30m 7a
Same start as "L’illusionniste" but then right.
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015
- 88 - [Link]
LES FROUZES
Description
One of the best cliffs around, 70m high, alien tufas everywhere!
An impressive piece of rock! In the shade after 13:00 (depending
on the season).
Approach
Hike up the trail through the canyon for 10 to 15 minutes, you
will see Bombé on the left and just after that an impressive and
tall cliff on the right. Here you are!
- 89 - [Link]
Routes
- 90 - [Link]
no name length bolts grade
1 Raki horror story L1 27m 10 7a+
The leftmost line, before the rock becomes a bit brittle. Stays left of
the tufas to an anchor just below the ledge.
Set by Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015
2 Raki horror story L2 45m 7b
With the first extension of "Raki horror story L1".
Set by Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015
3 Raki horror story L3 65m 8a+
With the second extension all the way up.
Set by Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015
4 Midnight express L1 27m 9 6c+
The line right of the grey tufa.
Set by Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015
5 Midnight express L2 50m 7b+
With the extension of "Midnight express L1".
Set by Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015
Jean tasse les dents de 32m
6 12 6c+
fiottes L1
Starts on the round grey tufa with some broken parts and goes up
left through amazing tufas, some of them dark black to an anchor
above the ledge.
Set by Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015
Jean tasse les dents de 65m
7 8a+
fiottes L2
With the extension of "Jean tasse les dents de fiottes L1".
Set by Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015
Ja masse les dents de 36m
8 7a
chèvres L1
Same start as Jean tasse les dents de fiottes L1 but branches out
right after bolt 2 and follows the bolt line right of the obvious tufas
to an anchor higher up.
Set by Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015
Ja masse les dents de 70m
9 8a
chèvres L2
- 91 - [Link]
no name length bolts grade
With the extension of "Ja masse les dents de chèvres L1".
Set by Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015
10 Les frouzes c'est abo L1 25m 7a
Starts on the far right of the upper platform opr from down below.
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015
11 Les frouzes c'est abo L2 50m 7c
With the extension of "Les frouzes c'est abo L1".
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015
12 Woulou 35m 7c
Same start as "Les frouzes c'est abo L1" but then right.
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015
13 Woulou-Woulow 55m 8a+
With the extension of "Woulou". Shares anchor with "Les frouzes
c'est abo L2".
Set by Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015
14 La lune nulle L1 45m 7c
The tall line in the middle of the wall.
Set by Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015
15 La lune nulle L2 55m 8a
With the extension of "La lune nulle L1".
Set by Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015
16 DME 55m 7c+
Start on "Les 1001 lunules", then take the far left line from the cave.
Set by Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015
17 DTC 50m 7b+
Start on "Les 1001 lunules", then take the middle (left) line from the
cave.
Set by Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015
18 Les 1001 lunules 40m 7a+
Climb up into the hole and take the right line of bolts.
Set by Benjamin Coup, Nov 2015
- 92 - [Link]
no name length bolts grade
19 CIFA style 25m 5c
Right of the hole, the one obvious easy climb.
Set by Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015
20 Fox à pisse 40m 7c+
Climb "CIFA style" and continue up.
Set by Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015
21 Let’s gobons du Bonfile 40m 7b/b+
Set by Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015
- 93 - [Link]
INDIRIM
west 10-20min
Description
This small cliff is just next to the trail, short powerful and still a
lot of potential there. It is located in a narrow section of the
canyon and thus stays in the shade all day.
Approach
Hike up the canyon from the parking, pass the sectors Bombé
and Les Frouzes to reach this sector on your left.
- 94 - [Link]
Routes
- 95 - [Link]
ICEFALL
Description
Impressively nice rock. Almost pink limestone with grey tufas
on the left side of the narrow section of the canyon. Very few
people come up here to climb but just having a look is worth it.
Approach
Continue for another 15 to 20 minutes up from Les frouzes to
find this wall. Hard to miss on the left side where the canyon
becomes narrow.
- 96 - [Link]
Routes
no name length bolts grade
1 Sonate au claire de lune 45m 23 6c+/7a
Glue-in bolts. Pitch one is 6b and has 18 bolts.
Set by Patrick Rey, 2016
2 Riders on the storm 30m 15 7a
Glue-in bolts.
Set by Patrick Rey, 2016
3 Le vent nous portera 45m 16 7b+
Set by Patrick Rey, 2016
- 97 - [Link]
EMECIK
T
he south face of the Emecik mountain is full of rock. The
characteristics of this rock are: well protected from north wind,
it is a warm sector for winter and firestones are integrated into
the lime stone (chert). There is a huge potential for new routes.
APPROACH
From Datça drive in direction of Marmaris. About 8.5km after
the left turn off for Kızlan (traffic light) take a small dirt road on
your left (way before the village of Emecik). Follow this dirt road
for about 1.7km and park there at a small junction (36.777396,
27.789877).
From there hike in to the right and follow the trails, not going
too far right and staying left of the creek. At one moment you
might loose the trail, continue through the bush until you reach
open space again and climb up a bit steeper towards the left
section of cliffs. Follow a small gravel / block field to reach the cliff.
Looking up, the routes are on the second wall, the one with the
big left facing corner. Two routes are on the far left of the corner
and two more a bit closer to the corner.
- 98 - [Link]
south 30-45 min
Routes
3 Tikka 35m 6b
Set by Rafsta
4 Tara 40m 6b
Set by Rafsta
- 99 - [Link]