The Kougar was designed as an advanced aileron trainer for fliers who have had some flying time

on an intermediate trainer
such as the Sig Komander or Sig Kavalier. While it is very maneuverable and can do difficult FAI pattern maneuvers and even
accomplish lomcevaks, the model has been carefully tailored to handle easily and not be touchy in the hands of novice fliers. A
fully symmetrical wing section provides good inverted and outside stunting characteristics.
For use as a trainer, a .40 cu. in. engine is recommended. A .45 gives faster performance and would be good for pattern
competition. One of the prototype models was powered by a .49 and the model is strong enough to handle this amount of power
though this engine size is advisable only for advanced contest or sport fliers who wish to achieve high flying speed and steep
angles of climb.

A Note About Balsa Wood

We do our best to put as good a grade of balsa in our kits as the supply situation permits. The world-wide increase in demand
for balsa has made it impossible to obtain as high an average quality as used to be the case and this situation is getting
worse.
Every piece of balsa supplied cannot be 100% perfect or kit prices would have to be greatly increased. Mineral stains or small
knots do not seriously affect wood strength. Even with the very best grades of balsa, there is a natural tendency for some
sticks or sheets to immediately bow upon being cut off from a perfectly square block because of builtin stresses. In most
cases, these can be bowed back into alignment during building. True up the edges of bowed sheet by trimming, using a metal
straight edge to cut against. Planking sheets, as used on the wing, need not be perfectly flat since they must be curved into
place anyway during construction. The gluing of the plywood doublers and stringers to the fuselage sides while they are
pinned to a flat surface should flatten out any warps in the side sheets.

Recommended Glues
The framework should be glued with Sig-Bond resin type glue. Areas subjected to unusual strain, exposed to fuel or oil, or
including metal pieces, should be epoxied with Sig Epoxy Glue or Sig Kwik-Set 5 minute type epoxy. Some specific pieces have
other recommendations. You will find these in the directions concerning the part.
.

About The Building Sequence

The quickest and most efficient way to complete a model is to work on several pieces at the same time. While the glue is drying
on one section you can start on or proceed with another part. We occasionally get suggestions that our instruction books should
be in exact step-by-step building sequence. But this would result in many sentences starting "While the glue is drying on the
fuselage, move to the wing etc." and a lot of jumping back and forth between assemblies with no consistent pictorial
progression.
Also, a preselected building sequence by our choice might not suit your workshop space and time allotments. Therefore, we feel
the present system of covering main assemblies in a unit works out best for the majority of kit builders. So keep in mind that the
numbering sequence used in these instructions were chosen as the best way of explaining the building of each major assembly
and is not in tended to be followed in exact one-two-three fashion. Start on the wing at No.1 and after performing a step or two,
flip over to the next main heading of "FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION" and do a step or two there, then over to "TAIL
ASSEMBLY" and so forth. You will, of course, arrive at points where you can go no farther until another component is available.
For example, you need a completed wing before the fuselage can be completed. The way to understand these relationships is
to read the instructions completely and study the photos before beginning to work.
Any reference to right or left refers to right or left as if seated in the cockpit.

You Can't Get Along Without a Good Sanding Block

An indispensable tool for proper construction is a large sanding block sized to

take a full sheet of sandpaper. Use several wood screws along one edge to hold
the sheet in place. Use the block to bring all parts and sticks to final, exact fit. We
recommend 80-grit garnet paper for use on the block during general construction.
You can switch to 100-grit, followed by 220 silicone paper for final finish just
before covering.
In addition to the large block, there are places where a smaller one is handy.
Also, a sandpaper "file" can be made by gluing sandpaper to a flat spruce stick
for working tight-places. We have an especially handy extra long sanding block
made from a 40 inch piece of aluminum channel with sandpaper glued to it that is
particularly useful for jobs like truing up the leading edge and trailing edge of the wing core.

Cutting Out Printed Parts

A jig saw is best for this job. Cut just outside the lines, leaving all of the
black line on the part. When fitting the part into place in the model, use the
sanding block to bring the edges to an exact fit. If a modeling knife is used
to cut out the parts, don't cut too close to the lines -- leave some extra
wood outside the line. True up and finish the edge with the sanding block.

Some Rules To Follow

Cut all long pieces of balsa first, followed by medium lengths before
cutting up any full-length strips into short pieces. Remove die-cut pieces
from the sheets carefully. If difficulty is encountered, do not force the part
from the sheet. Use a modeling knife to cut it free. Leave parts in the
sheets until needed in construction.
A piece of Celotex-type wallboard makes a handy building board, into which pins can easily be pushed. Lay the building board
on a table with a flat and untwisted top. Pins can be pushed through all pieces in the kit without any lasting damage. The holes
will fill up during sanding and doping. Be careful where you use a ball point pen for making marks. If not sanded off, these
marks will bleed through many coats of dope and show on the finished model.

WING CONSTRUCTION

1. True up the edges of the fourteen 1/16"x3"x24" sheets of wing planking wood by trimming where necessary, using a metal
straightedge as a guide. Use the large sanding block for final touch up of the edges.

2. Tape seven sheets tightly together with strips of masking tape.

3. Turn over and open up the joints, with the masking tape serving as a hinge. Put a bead of Sig Bond in each of the seams
and close the joint.
.

4. Lay the sheets flat. Scrape off the excess glue with a squeegee made from a balsa scrap. Finish glue cleanup with a damp
rag. Weight down the sheets on a flat surface and allow to dry thoroughly.

5. Sand the wing skins smooth with the sanding block.

6. Cut one 7-sheet piece diagonally in two, with untaped side up, as shown by the dotted line marked "A" in the diagram
below.
Cut the other 7-piece diagonally in two, with the untaped side up, in the opposite direction as shown by the dotted line
marked "B". This provides 4 wing skins with the untaped, rougher glue seam on the outside surface of the wing. The
smoother, taped side should be used against the foam wing for best adhesion of the skin to the foam. The rougher, outer
glue seams can be sanded down partially with a sanding block before application of the skins and completed during final
sanding of the skin on the wing.

7. Sand any irregularities or cutting wire marks from the cores with the large sanding block.

8. Hold the cores together at the center joint. If there is any mismatch in the airfoil shape, sand as required to make them fit
smoothly together. Done this way, little matching will be required after planking.

THE SECRET OF A PERFECT FOAM WING

It's a simple matter of a FLAT table. Most tables are not flat, as can be seen by checking them with a good straightedge.
If a foam core is covered on a bowed or twisted surface, then the wing will be bowed or twisted. And a table that checks
out true but is flexible and will yield as you press on it will also spoil a wing. The ideal working surface is a sheet of plate
glass. Or, it is possible to find a thick piece of plywood that is perfectly true.
Like balsa blocks, foam blocks sometimes have built-in internal stresses and the core bows slightly when cut out of the
block. Skinning on a flat surface, in the sequence shown in the pictures, will correct minor bows.
Incidently, the washout in the Kougar wing is cut right into the foam core. The tip section is higher at the trailing edge
compared to the center section trailing edge. The washout will take care of itself. No blocking up or other steps are
required of the builder. Proceed with wing construction as if it were a standard wing.
.

9. a. Sig Core Bond is recommended for applying the wing skins. This is a
CAUTION
special adhesive, light and strong, that is ideal for use with foam. As
experienced modelers have found, many foam wing glues contain very Use only Sig Core Bond, Sig Kwik-
volatile solvents. When using these glues, if the wing skin is put on before Set, Sig Epoxy Glue or Sig-Bond Glue
the glue is absolutely dry, the still evaporating solvents are trapped in the on the foam wing cores.
assembly and quickly attack and destroy part of the foam core, ruining the
wing. Sig Core Bond is much less likely to do this type of damage and is Model cement such as Sig-Ment, dope
more forgiving of errors in assembly technique. So it is ideal for beginners and fiberglass resin will attack and
at foam wing sheeting in addition to being a superior adhesive. Follow the destroy foam. If you use any product
directions on the can for a perfect wing sheeting job. other than those listed, test them on a
b. Shorten the bristles of an ordinary 2" house paint brush to about 1-1/2". scrap of foam before use on the wing.
This stiffens the brush and makes it easier to spread the glue evenly.
c. Apply a thin, even, full coverage coat of Core Bond to both sides of the
foam cores. Avoid heavy spots. These are inclined to skin over, leaving wet
spots underneath that could cause trouble after the wings are skinned.
Stand the cores on end to dry. (The cores should be coated first because
they take slightly longer to dry than the wing skins.)
d. Coat the wing skins with Core Bond.
e. Allow the cores and skins to dry completely. This generally takes about one
hour. In conditions of high humidity it may take somewhat longer. It is best
to join the parts soon after they are dry, since if they are allowed to lay
around for a long period, they will not stick together as well as if joined
soon after they are dry. In case of doubt as to whether the glue is dry or
not, it is best to let it dry a little longer rather than join the parts while still
partially wet.
10. Hold the trailing edge of the foam core in position just above the wing skin and lower the edge only onto the skin. Make sure
it is properly aligned before contact is made because it cannot be removed and re-positioned after contact is made. Press
down along the trailing edge to make sure it is making good contact and is flat against the table.

11. Roll the core down onto the sheet with a rocking motion.

12. Continue rolling the core onto the sheet until the leading edge is attached.

13. Turn the core over and firmly rub down the wing skin sheeting with the flat of your hands to insure that the balsa skin is
firmly attached to the core.

14. Remove the waste wood around the edges by rough trimming. Save fine final trim for later.

15. Repeat Step 10 on the opposite side of the cores.

.

16. Repeat Step 11.

17. Repeat Steps 12 and 13.

18. Trim and sand the edges of the sheeted foam cores. While the regular sanding block can be used, note how useful an extra
long block is for this purpose. (The one shown is made from a section of aluminum channel extrusion - with sandpaper
glued on using sanding disc adhesive. This handy specialized glue is available at hardware stores and lumber yards.

19. Glue on the 1/4"x3/4" leading edge, holding it in place with pins and strips of masking tape. Sig Bond glue is recommended.

20. a. Glue on the 1/4"x1/2" trailing edge in the same manner as the leading edge.
b. Allow to dry.
21. Carve the leading and trailing edge roughly to contour.

22. Sand to exact shape with the sanding block. A pencil line drawn down the center of the leading edge from root to tip will
help get the shape true all along the wing.

23. a. Epoxy glue the anchor block to the grooved block.

b. Cut out the balsa sheeting above the landing gear block slots in the foam core. The slots may be located by pressing
on the sheeting or by use of the waste block from the foam core. Cut the holes in the sheeting out undersize at first
so that the opening can be trimmed down carefully for an exact fit around the landing gear blocks.
c. Excavate the foam out of the pre-cut cavity to accomodate the anchor block. The best way to cut foam is with a
brand new, sharp modeling knife whittling blade. Or you can heat an old blade in a flame and hot cut the hole.
d. Epoxy glue the landing gear blocks into the wing. Should there be any areas in the cavities which do not fit snugly
against the blocks, fill these voids with a mixture of epoxy glue and scrap foam which has been crumbled into bits.
.

24. Position the landing gear and drill a 5/32" diameter hole
into the gear block and anchor block.
CAREFUL!
It is easy to slip and go clear through the wing.

Trim the edge of the hole so that the radius of the wire at the bend will fit down into it. The gear should fit into the block snugly, but not
tightly that it will jam in the block. You may want to remove it later for straightening after a hard landing. Place a nylon landing gear stra
held on by No. 2 screws across the gear at each end to retain the gear in the groove.

25. The angle already cut into the ends of the foam wing halves sets an approximately correct dihedral angle. To check it, set up the wing
halves as shown in the drawing below, with each wing tip blocked up 1". Sand the wing ends (Photo 25) as required to make the cente
joint fit correctly together. Glue the halves together with Sig Epoxy Glue or Sig Kwik-Set Glue. Use plenty of glue where the balsa shee
meets so that the joint between the two halves is completely filled. Be certain that the leading and trailing edges are lined up exactly so
that no twist between the two halves is built into the wing. Mark center lines on the ends of each panel before joining and match the line
when joining. If you have the wing sitting on a true, flat surface, a further check on twist can be made by putting center marks on the tip
also and measuring from them to the table as a second reference.
.

Notes On Loops
A true wing will perform perfect loops. A twisted wing will loop obliquely. One wing half being heavier than the other
may also affect loop tracking. Side mounted motor may make one side of the model heavier than the other. Put weight
in opposite wing tip until balanced. Should your model snap roll out of the top of a loop, it may snap in the direction of
any twist in the wing, but the real reason for it snapping is because of a stall. This is probably due to one or more of
the following:

Airspeed too low.

C.G. too far back.

Pilot pulls too much elevator, a mistake aggravated by excessive elevator travel which makes the elevator more
sensitive. Reduce travel of elevator and use more care in transmitter stick movement.

Not enough power, too high a wing loading for the available power or both.

26. Cut out the wing tip blocks, using the pattern, at the end of these instructions, for the top view and the end of the sheeted
wing for the side view. Glue the tip block on with Sig Bond, holding it in place with masking tape and/or pins. Carve and
sand to shape. (If you wish to save weight by hollowing the tip, only tack glue it in place so that it can be removed for
hollowing after it has been shaped. Use an X-acto "Y" router blade for hollowing.
27. Cut out the inset holes in the wing sheeting for the plywood tabs called PW.

28. Epoxy the PW tabs in place, using a ruler to line them up with the wing top surface.

29. Cut the ailerons to length. This should be done right on the model. Groove the
ailerons and drill holes for the wire aileron horns. Epoxy the horns into the
ailerons.
STOP!
In this picture sequence, the ailerons were covered with silk before they were
permanently glued to the wing in Steps 31b. and c.
After completing the wing through Step 46, it was covered with silk and the edge
of the silk lapped down onto the back of the wing in the crack between it and the
aileron. If you are using plastic film covering, it is best to cover both the wing
and the ailerons separately before joining because of the necessity of ironing the edges. In this case, DO NOT glue the
ailerons to the wing in 31b. and c. Leave them loose and proceed with Steps 32, 33, 34 and 35. SKIP 36,37 and 38 until
later. Go on with Steps 39, 40, 41, 42 and 43. Now cover the ailerons and the wing, except for the small area involved in
Steps 36, 37 and 38. Now glue the ailerons to the wing as directed in 31b. and c. and proceed with Steps 36, 37 and 38.
Complete the job by covering the small area left in 36, 37 and 38 with film.

(You can also use this alternate sequence for covering with silk if you prefer.)

30. Slot the ailerons and glue in the hinges.

31. a. Cut holes in the PW plywood tabs to pass the arms of the aileron horns.
b. Slot the wing to take the hinges that were previously glued into the
ailerons. Glue the hinges into the slots. Don't glue the brass bearing yet.
c. After the glue on the hinges has set up, position the brass tube bearings
and epoxy glue them into the corner formed by the back of the wing and
the PW tabs. The brass bearings should not be forced against the back of
the wing if they don't happen to be touching it. Let them assume the
position they were placed in by the gluing in of the hinges. If there is a
slight gap between the tubing and the wing, allow it to fill with epoxy glue.
.

INSTALLING EASY HINGES

Using a No.11 X-Acto blade (or similar) cut a slot approximately 1/2" in depth
and slightly wider than the hinge. After all slots have been cut, insert an Easy
Hinge halfway into each slot in one of the pieces to be hinged. Then carefully
slide the matching model part onto the other half of the hinges. You'll find it
easiest to slide the part onto the hinges at an angle, one hinge at a time.

At this point the surface to be hinged is attached but not glued. Align the two
surfaces and adjust the gap between them as required. For best control
response, the gap should be as small as possible but big enough to allow the
control surface to move to the maximum deflection that you will require. Place
three or four drops of any brand of cyanoacrylate adhesive (thinnest variety)
directly onto the Easy Hinge in the gap.

You will notice that the glue is quickly wicked into the slot as it penetrates
both the wood and the hinge. Continue this process, gluing the same side of
all of the hinges. Then turn the surfaces over and repeat the gluing process
on the other side of each hinge. After the glue has cured, approximately three
minutes, the joint can be flexed. You may notice a slight stiffness in the joint.
This can be eliminated by flexing the surface to full deflection each direction a
couple of dozen times. Don't worry about shortening the life of the hinge as
they are almost indestructible.

AT THIS POINT YOU WILL NEED THE FUSELAGE COMPLETED THROUGH STEP 73.

32. (NOTE: Picture 32 shows the fuselage bottom block in place on the fuselage but it is best NOT to have it installed when
Step 32 is done. Access to the dowels is,much easier when it is not in the way.)

a. Set the wing in the fuselage saddle. If it does not fit the saddle exactly, sand as required to make it fit.
b. Hold the wing in position and mark the dowel holes in the wing by punching through the holes in F-2 with a 1/4" drill,
a piece of tubing or a rod.
c. Drill the holes in the wing out oversize - about 9/32" diameter - to allow some "wiggle" room during the final
positioning and gluing in of the dowels. Dig out a little foam just behind the leading edge so the glue will form a
"collar" to lock the dowel to the balsa.
d. Put a piece of wax paper over the face of F-2 and insert the dowels through the paper into F-2.
e. Coat the holes in the wing with Kwik-Set Glue and put enough extra glue in the holes to fill the gap between the
oversize holes and the dowels. Don't overdo the amount of glue.
f. Put the wing in place and secure it in position with masking tape. Hold the fuselage vertically to keep the glue from
running out of the dowel holes. Allow the glue to set up firm, but not fully cure, just in case it may have stuck the
wing to the fuselage in some leaky spot. Remove the wing. If the dowel holes are not completely filled with glue, fill
them. If necessary, now that the dowels are set in place, you can cut away the wood around them to provide room
for filling any remaining crack with glue.
33. a. Put the wing on the fuselage again with a piece of wax paper between it and the fuselage at the back.
b. Epoxy the wing bolt anchor blocks in place against the fuselage sides.
34. a. Locate the positions of the wing bolt anchor blocks on the bottom of the wing. (Remember that the wing bolt holes
are drilled at an angle so that the heads of the bolts will end up flush with the surface of the bottom of the wing.
b. Drill a hole through the wing and on through the anchor blocks with a No.7 drill. (13/64" is the nearest inch size
equivalent.)
c. Run a 1/4-20 tap through the hole to cut threads in the wing bolt anchor blocks.
d. Remove the wing and drill out the holes in the wing only with a 1/4" diameter drill to pass the nylon wing bolts.
.

NOTE:
If you are in a hurry to get the model built and aren't interested in a
perfect bottom line contour between the wing and fuselage, ignore
Steps 35 and 36. Look ahead to Step 37 for an explanation of a
simplified wing bolt hole reinforcement.

35. Cut out inserts for the 1/16" plywood PB squares and drill 1/4" diameter holes
through them from the other side of the wing. Epoxy glue PB in place.

36. a. Cut and notch pieces of 1/4" shaped trailing edge stock to fit over the brass
tubing bearing of the aileron horns.
b. With a tooth pick, coat the inside end of the tubing with vaseline to prevent
any glue that may accidently be squeezed onto it from sticking the horn
movement. It is only necessary to grease the very end and a small section
of the wire. Do not grease the whole tubing -- it should be epoxied to the
shaped piece.
c. Epoxy the shaped 1/4" trailing edge stock in place.

37. Cut pieces WS from 1/8" sheet and glue in place.

SIMPLIFICATION NOTE:
If you skipped the inset pieces PB in Steps 35 and 36, use the pattern
called WSS to cut substitute pieces from scrap 1/16" plywood. Glue
these WSS pieces over the holes directly on top of the balsa skin
without cutting any inset. Drill through them from the opposite side of
the wing. If plywood pieces WSS are substituted, remember that they
cannot be shaped to contour as are the balsa WS pieces done in the
next step.

38. a. Protect the bottom of the fuselage from the sanding block with a piece of
light cardboard that will slide back and forth as the wing is shaped.
b. Sand the 1/4" trailing edge stock and the pieces WS to form a smooth
connection contour with the bottom line of the fuselage.

39. a. Put a piece of wax paper between the wing and fuselage (which now has the bottom front block installed and
shaped) at the front.
b. Shape a piece of scrap balsa block to fit down into half of the cavity. Make a matching block for the other half.
.

40. Carve the blocks roughly to shape so that the contour of the fuselage bottom block is carried on to the wing.

41. a. Glue the blocks to the wing and fine sand the shape as shown.
b. Fill any small remaining gaps with Sig Epoxolite or a mixture of Sig Kwik-Set glue and micro-balloons or talcum
powder.
42. a. Cut a cavity in the wing for the servo. Size will depend on the servo and/or mount. Look ahead in the book for further
ideas on the requirements for this hole.
b. Cut strips of 2" fiberglass tape for both sides of the wing center joint.

43. We use regular Sig Epoxy Glue (not Kwik-Set Glue) for applying the fiberglass tape, since it is thinner and easier to spread
out smoothly. It will be even easier to spread if you warm the mixing container by setting it in hot water for a few minutes to
raise the temperature of the glue. But work quickly, for the glue will set up much faster than normally when warmed.

a. Coat the wing center with glue.

b. Lay the tape on top of the glue.
c. Holding one end of the tape so it won't slip, "squeegee" the glue through the tape, with a small paddle made from a
scrap of balsa. Scrape over the tape several times with the squeegee paddle to smooth the tape and remove excess
glue.
44. Glue hardwood mounts for the servo into the cavity. Coat the entire inside of the cavity with epoxy glue to prevent the
foam from being damaged by fuel or dope.

45. The plastic servo mount in the photo is for a Logictrol servo. Use No. 2 screws to fasten it to the hardwood mounts. For
more radio equipment installation instructions look ahead.

46. a. Screw the nylon connectors supplied in the kit onto the threaded aileron horns.
b. Hook the servo to the aileron horns with the rods and HC links.
c. A servo connector can be used at the other end instead of a "Z" bend, if desired. The SIGSH184 connector is shown
here but is not furnished in the kit.
.

FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION

NOTE:
Vertical or side mounting may be used,
but the tank position should be changed
accordingly to keep it in the same
relationship to the motor's needle valve
hole.

47. Smooth and even F-IA and F-IB with the

sandpaper block. Glue them together
with epoxy glue, as shown in the
accompanying drawing.

48. The angled motor mount installation was chosen for the Kougar to get the fuel tank in the optimum location in the fuselage
and at the same time provide for installation of a standard type of muffler at a practical point in relation to the fuselage.
Different motors may require different spacing than that shown.

a. Layout the center lines and motor mount positions on the front of the F-l firewall assembly, using the F-l drawing as
a guide.
b. Position the nose gear bearing and drill holes for the 4-40 bolts.

49. a. Tack glue the motor mounts to the firewall. Bring the glue up over the Motor Mounting Notes
mount ends to help hold it. (Double coated masking tape can be used
instead to attach the mounts.) Check and see if your motor fits properly on When tapping holes in the
the mounts. aluminum motor mounts, use
b. Drill through the mounting holes with a long drill bit. (If you do not have a kerosene or a specialized
long drill bit, a length of music wire with a notch filed in the end will do the aluminum tapping lubricant such
same thing.) Or--start the holes using a tap holder for a drill bit as shown. as Tapmatic Fluid, rather than oil.
50. a. Enlarge the holes just drilled in the back side to take the shank of the 6-32 This will reduce the chance of the
blind nuts on the mounts and the 4-40 blind nuts for the nose gear bearing. tap sticking in the motor mount and
b. Tighten the mounting bolts to pull the blind nuts into the wood. Coat them breaking. SIGSHI09 6-32 xl"
with epoxy glue to hold in place. Socket Head Bolts are
c. Drill a 7/8" hole through the firewall for the tank. (If you don't have a 7/8" recommended for mounting the
wood bit, the hole can be cut out on a jig saw. Or, drill a series of small motor. They are not furnished
holes around the edge of the large hole, punch out the center and finish the because some builders may not
edge with a sanding drum in a motor tool or with sandpaper wrapped have a tap. Use SIGSH159 bolts,
around a dowel. nuts and washers in this case.
.

51. (NOTE: The photo shows the Kavalier firewall, but the process is the same for the
Kougar.)

a. Bolt the spinner backplate to the motor. (This must be done to allow for
differences in spinners. For example, the Goldberg spinner has a recessed
backplate which requires the motor to be farther forward than a spinner
without a recess. This is a good thing, giving more clearance behind the
motor for fuel lines, and is one reason - other than the pleasing shape - that
we recommend the Goldberg for the Kougar.)
b. With 5 minute epoxy, tack glue the engine to the mounts so the back of the
spinner is 4 l/2" from the front face of the firewall. (This allows for
approximately a 3/32" space between the cowl and spinner.)
c. Make a punch by sharpening the end of a piece of 1/8" music wire.
d. Center punch the mounting holes.
The recommended method of engine mounting The recommended method of engine mounting is to tap the motor mount
holes and use 6-32 socket head bolts to retain the motor. Back the top out frequently and clean to avoid jamming in the
aluminum. Use kerosene or a special aluminum tapping lubricant. If you do not have a tap, drill holes through the mounts
and use bolts, lock washers and nuts.

52. Sand off the rear ends of the fuselage printed sheets.

53. Glue the fuselage end pieces FX-F2 and FY-F2 to the end of the fuselage sheet. Use a ruler to make sure the top line
(where the stabilizer will be mounted) is straight. Mark the thrust line on the end of the fuselage side where it can be located
later if needed for incidence check or for parallel decorations. (Also do the nose.)

54. a. Glue the top 1/2" triangular stock top pieces on to the fuselage sides.
b. Glue on the back bottom piece of triangular stock.

55. a. Add the piece of triangular stock just under the stabilizer position.
56. a. Glue on the bottom front piece of triangular stock.
b. FW is cut from scrap 1/16" sheet using the accompanying pattern.
57. Glue FW in place.

IMPORTANT NOTE:
Do not use Sig-Bond, White Glue or any other water-base adhesive to glue the plywood doubler to the
fuselage sides. The water in these glues causes the parts to curl. Use Sig Epoxy or Sig Kwik-Set. Only a thin
film of epoxy glue will be necessary. Sig Kwik-Set sets up in under 5 minutes so you must work rapidly when
using it.
.

58. Mark the locations of Formers F-2 and

F-3 on the triangular stock because the
doubler will cover up the location lines.

59. Fit the die-cut plywood doublers into

place. Sand wherever necessary to
make them sit in the proper location.
Leave the black line of the wing saddle
area --- don't cover it with the doubler.

CAUTION
Do not glue the plywood doublers, on with Sig Bond, Tite Bond, Elmer's white glue or any other adhesive
that has a water base. Water base glue will cause the doublers and sides to curl because of the large area
being glued.
The doublers on the prototype were
glued in place with Sig Kwik-Set five
minute epoxy. Work quickly, spread a
thin film of glue over the entire doubler,
put in place and press down with your
hands while it is setting up. Do not take
it from the building board immediately
after setup. Five-minute epoxy sets up
quickly but doesn't fully cure for some
hours. During this time it can warp. Put
some heavy weights on the doublers
and leave them overnight if possible.

Some builders prefer contact cement to

install doublers. The main consideration
here is to prepare guides beforehand
with pins placed so they will steer the
doubler onto the exact required spot, for
once the glue on each surface makes
contact, the doubler cannot be moved.
Another aid makes contact, the doubler
cannot be moved. Another aid is to cut
a piece of wax paper to cover the glue
on the side and slip it out when the
doubler is in place. Press the parts
firmly together.

60. Cut the completed sides from the sheet.

61. a. Mark the positions of F-2 and F-

3 on the plywood doublers.
b. NOTE: It occurred to us after
doing the photo sequence that
the notching of the bottom
triangular stock to pass F-1B
could more easily be done at this
point. Look ahead to picture No.
72 and you may agree and want
to do the notches now.
c. Cut pieces of triangular stock for
the fuselage front. Allow 3/32"
back from the front edge to
accomodate F-1B. DO NOT glue
these pieces in at this time. Put
them aside for later use after the
firewall has been glued on.
.

62. Notch out the plywood doubler and side as required to pass the motor mount blind nut later when the sides are joined.

63. a. Using the pattern, drill 1/4" holes

in F-2.
b. Check the dowels in the holes.
They should fit snugly but not so
tight as to be difficult to remove.
Sand the holes as required to
make the dowels come out
without a lot of force.

64. At this point check the top view plan of the rear of the fuselage and look ahead to picture No. 71. They show the bevel that
should be cut into the triangular stock now so the rear ends will fit together when the sides are joined later.

65. Glue F-2 and F-3 in place on a side with epoxy glue. Use a 900 triangle to get them exactly perpendicular.

66. Pin the side on the top view plan - see the end of the instructions.

67. Join the other side to F-2 and F-3. Pin securely to the building board.

68. Glue F-4 in place, holding the fuselage pinched together while pinning the sides to the building board.

69. Continue on back along the fuselage, gluing in F-5 and pinning the sides to the building board.

70. Pinch the sides together at the back. Glue and pin.

71. Add FB to the back of F-3. The edges of FB will have to be beveled to fit against the triangular stock.
.

72. Saw a notch in the bottom triangle stock, flush with the plywood doubler to accomodate F-IB.

73. a. Sand the bottom of the fuselage smooth and level with the sanding block. (As is shown being done to the fuselage
top in picture No. 79.)
b. Cover the bottom of the fuselage with pieces of 1/8" sheet.

IMPORTANT! Leave the sides pinned down to the board until after the bottom sheeting is glued on and is dry. If the sides
are removed from the board before the bottom sheeting is on, the fuselage may twist if one side happens to be a different
grain of wood than the other. After the bottom is on, it will remain perfectly true and can be removed from the board.

74. Use scrap triangular stock to brace the

wing bolt anchor blocks, which have just
been installed during the performance of
Steps 32 and 33 of the wing
construction.

OIL PROOF YOUR MODEL!

STOP! Don't proceed any further with the fuselage until it has been used for Steps
32, 33 and 34 on the wing. One of the most destructive things that
can happen to a model is allowing
75. Fit the 3/4"x3" bottom front block in engine oil to soak into bare, untreated
place, with firewall taped on. balsa or plywood. It will cause glue
joints to loosen and results in a steady
increase in weight. An oil soaked
model cannot be properly repaired or
re-painted after a crackup, since glue
and finish will not hold. Cover all wood
parts of the model and put on enough
coats of finish so that oil cannot soak
in. Don't leave any exposed wood on
the outside. Around the nose and
engine compartment, apply extra effort
at oil proofing. Coating the firewall and
front joints with epoxy glue is best, but
several extra coats of dope or paint
will also do the job. Take special care
during building to use plenty of epoxy
glue to attach the firewall and coat the
back of the firewall and the firewall
braces with the glue. Fill any cracks
76. Hollow out the block to make more room in the nose for a battery. with epoxy.
.

77. a. Cover the holes in the blind nuts

on the back of the firewall with
small pieces of tape to prevent
glue from oozing into the
threads. (Look ahead to Picture
No. 80.)
b. Epoxy the block and firewall to
the fuselage.
c. Shape and sand the block to the
contour formed by the firewall
and F-2.

Assemble the tank for use during Steps 78 and 79.

TIPS ON TANKS

IMPORTANT: To prevent fuel spray from staining the canopy, run the tank vent line
out of the bottom of the cowling. Fill the tank through the muffler pressure line or
needle valve line.
We occasionally receive suggestions from builders that a removable hatch be designed into the model for access to the gas
tank. Our opinion is this is not the best method in most cases. The hatch opening makes the nose weaker and there is no
good way to keep oil leaking in around the hatch. A method of fastening has to be built into the fuselage to hold a hatch in
place.
Modern plastic tanks are virtually indestructable under normal use and bursting or
cracking is almost unknown. If you use Sig Heat Proof Silicone tubing (which will
not harden or deteriorate in fuel) in the plastic tank, the tank will seldom have to be
removed. We have models in which tank has been installed for three or four years
without ever needing removal. So it is quite practical to put the tank in semi-
permanently. Check the models at a contest - you'll find that the majority have
sealed noses, as does this kit.

Read this before you drill the 7/8" hole in the firewall.
Some fliers prefer not to bring the tank cap through the firewall as is shown in the construction sequence in these instructions.
Instead they drill two holes for the vent tubes only and make the vent tubes long enough to extend through the firewall. This
method requires little sealing but it is more difficult to install and remove the tank. The best way to manage this is to feed long
pieces of fuel line through the holes and attach them to the tank in the cabin area. Steer the tank into the nose as the tubes
are pulled back through the holes. If you are undecided as to which method you should use, our advice is that large hole
installation shown in the construction pictures is the best for beginners.
Put scrap wood supports under and at the back of the tank. The front is supported by the 1/4" hole in the firewall. Seal the
tank cap in the hole with G.E. Silicone Bathtub Seal (available at hardware stores) or Devcon Seal-It. Put an oil-proof finish on
the firewall and in the hole before sealing the tank cap. Get some of the sealer on the sides of the hole and also put a bead
over the edge of the cap at the front. Should you need to remove the tank, break out the scrap wood supports in the rear and
push out the silicon rubber seal around the front cap. Reach into the fuselage and guide the tank outside.
Some builders, after putting their receiver battery in a plastic sack, taping it shut,
wrapping it in a foam rubber package and stuffing it into the nose under the tank,
then stuff paper toweling or foam rubber in to fill the nose compartment and keep
everything firmly in place.
After installation, put fuel tubing on the vent tube and run it to the outside of the
cowling on the bottom, so that fuel overflow is not blown over the wing-fuselage
joint, where it may leak into the fuselage. The best way to fill the tank is to take off
the fuel line to the needle vlave and pump the fuel in there until it runs out the vent.
Be sure and use a filter on your fuel supply can, and it is a good idea to have a filter
between the tank and the needle valve also.
Pressure Feed
If the engine you are using is equipped with a muffler pressure tap, make use of it for a more even fuel feed and reliable
operation. The hookup for pressure feed is shown in the picture. To fill the tank, remove the fuel line from the engine and
pump the fuel in. When the tank is full, it will overflow through the muffler pressure line. Use transparent or translucent fuel
line so you can see the fuel starting to overflow when the tank is full. Should some fuel happen to get in the muffler, drain it
out before starting the engine. Do not try to fill the tank in reverse from the pressure line, the tank will not fill properly and fuel
may be forced into the engine.
.

NOTE: Photos 78 and 79 show the Kavalier fuselage, but the procedure is exactly the same for the Kougar.

78. Practice installing the tank to make sure that it can easily be passed from the radio compartment of through the tank cap
hole in the firewall. Modify anything that interferes with easy placement and removal of the tank.

79. Glue scrap blocks on each side of the tank and at the rear end to hold it in position. Don't get the blocks too tight, just
enough to keep the tank from rattling around. The tank will need to be removable after the fuselage top is on by pulling on it
from the bottom side. Hold the tank in place with temporary scrap crosspieces across the bottom and the back. They can be
broken out when necessary to take out the tank. Or, you can stuff paper or foam rubber and the battery under it for support.
This is a good time, while access to the nose is open, to install the radio equipment and the pushrods for the steerable nose
wheel and throttle. SIGSH559 cable and tubing pushrods are recommended. The nose compartment can be oilproofed at
this time by painting it with warmed Sig Epoxy Glue (See Paragraph No. 43).

80. a. Reach through the top and epoxy in the triangular firewall braces that were cut to fit previously in Step 62c.
b. Cut a top triangular brace to fit and epoxy in place.

81. Sand the top of the fuselage level and

smooth.

82. Glue pieces of 1/8" sheet to the top of

the fuselage.

STOP! At this point you will need the tail parts.

83. a. Fit the plastic turtle deck and canopy to the fuselage. The canopy must be
trimmed down as required along the bottom to fit down snugly on the
plastic turtle deck. Temporarily tape the tail, plastic turtle deck and canopy
in place on the fuselage.
b. Outline the position of the plastic turtle deck and canopy on the top of the
fuselage with pencil.
c. Round the comers of the fuselage with a modeling knife. Note that the
fuselage cannot be rounded quite as much next to the canopy as it can
elsewhere, because the canopy is close to the fuselage edge.
84. Pin 1/8" square balsa pieces to the top as mounting rails for both the canopy and turtle deck. Allow for the thickness of the
parts.

85. Taper the 1/8" sq. pieces so the canopy will fit snugly down on them.

86. Paint the canopy before gluing it on (see "FINISHING THE PLASTIC") but do not leave it laying around painted. Put it on
soon as the paint is dry. The rest of the model should be completely finished before the canopy is attached. Sigment glue,
used sparingly, will fasten the canopy to the gluing rails. "Super" cyanoacrylate type glues may also be used. Careful! Too
many fumes from the glue trapped inside may fog the canopy. Put a ventilation hole into the cockpit floor and preceed
slowly.
.

REAR DECK AND TAIL ASSEMBLY

Note: The stabilizer and rudder parts are easiest to cover before they are hinged and attached to the fuselage. Refer
to the Finishing section and prepare the tail parts before hinging and attaching to the fuselage. Test assemble them
on the hinges before covering to insure that a good edge and end match has been obtained in the sanding operation.

87. Saw out the tail parts. Fit them together, using the sanding block. Glue and pin down the wax paper.

88. a. Sand off the lines and round the leading edge of the stabilizer and fin.
b. Sand and shape the rudder and elevator.

NOTE: Install hinges in the controls first. After they are set up, attach the controls to the tail surfaces. Read "INSTALLING
EASY HINGES" mentioned earlier.

89. a. Put the wing on the fuselage and check to see if the stabilizer lines up with it when pinned in place on the fuselage.
If it does not, sand one side or the other of the fuselage so that the stabilizer is level.
b. Glue the stabilizer to the fuselage. Use epoxy. To insure that the stabilizer is solidly glued to the fuselage, cut out the
covering material in the area that contacts the fuselage to expose the bare wood. Puncture a series of 1/16" holes
with a pointed wire in the stab and the fuselage top where they make contact. Have the holes at a slight angle to
each other. When epoxy glue is worked into these holes and sets up it will act like small nails holding the parts
together.
.

90. Shape the front of part FF so that the

plastic turtle deck will fit over it.

91. Pin FF in place and mark the contour on

the front where it contacts the plastic
turtle deck.

92. Carve and sand FF to a streamline

shape.

93. a. Cut a 1/8" x 1-1/8" slot in the

fuselage to pass the rudder
pushrod.
b. The picture shows a Goldberg
small pushrod exit guide being
used to line the slot. However, the
slot can be coated with epoxy
glue to harden it and an exit guide
will not be necessary.

94. The control horns should be installed before covering, then removed until the
covering is completed. Models with silk and dope covering have a hard enough
"shell" on the wood so that plywood reinforcement of the control horn area has not
been found necessary. Other types of covering call for reinforcement by insetting
a scrap plywood "scab" into the surface on the opposite side from the horn. This
will keep the horn from pulling out of the wood when subjected to unusual strain.

95. The elevator pushrod exits through the opening in the fuselage rear end. Take
note that the elevator horn mounting holes are not centered on the elevator, but
must be offset to the side slightly to have the horn arm in the center.

Cut the wheel cover from .030 ABS

Sheet Plastic and glue to the landing
gear with Celastic dipped in Acetone or
Dope Thinner.
.

COVERING AND FINISHING

IMPORTANT:
Don't skip covering the fuselage and tail just because they are solid wood. Painting them without covering first is not
enough. They will be much more resistant to splitting and breaking on hard impacts if they are covered with something - Sig
Silk, Silkspan, Sig Silray or iron-on covering material.
The manufacturer's directions for applying iron-on coverings are packed with the material. Follow these closely, for different
types of covering have different iron-on temperatures and techniques of application.

Whatever kind of covering you desire to use, it will not conceal a rough framework. Sand carefully with fine sandpaper
before beginning to cover.

Covering With Silk, Silkspan, or Silray

Although we refer to silk in the directions, all of these coverings are applied wet in the same manner as follows:
Brush an unthinned or very lightly thinned coat of clear Sig Supercoat or Sig Lite-Coat Dope over all parts of the framework
that will contact the covering. When dry, resand with fine sandpaper, to remove any fuzz or raised grain. Brush on a second
coat and sand again.

The bottom of the wing is a good place to start covering. Cut a piece of material about 1/2" larger all around than half of the
wing, with the grain running lengthwise. (The grain of woven materials runs parallel to the finished bias edge.) Some
builders next dip the piece in water and apply it to the wing. I find that the silk sticks together and takes a lot of pulling and
smoothing to get it in place so we do it a bit differently as shown in the photo.
Pin the dry covering in place and "paint" the water on with a brush.
Go around the edges, pulling out wrinkles and stretching the material smooth. You need not pull it up drum tight, in fact
going to this extreme is not advisable. Just pull out all of the wrinkles. Use pins, if necessary, to hold the silk smooth, though
wet silk usually stays in place without too much pinning. We like to fasten one end - in this case the center joint of the wing -
pretty firmly with pins so that you can pull against this anchored end in stretching the silk the long way.

Brush around the outside edge of the stretched silk with clear dope. The dope will soak through the material and adhere to
the dope already dried into the framework. Allow to dry.
Trim off the edges with a sharp blade. We find that a thin double-edged razor blade is ideal for this, but a single-edged
blade does okay and you can't cut your fingers on it. On the bottom, trim off flush with the wing all the way around. Go over
any rough areas or places that have not stuck down properly with more dope and press the loose spots down as the dope is
drying and getting stickier.
The top half is done in identical fashion except that the silk should be brought down over the edges instead of being
trimmed off flush. On the front, lap the silk over the edge of the bottom, over-lapping about 1/8". At the back, bring the
material down over the back edge of the trailing edge but do not lap it over the bottom covering.
Use the same process on the tail section and fuselage.
.

.
Allow the water to dry out of the wood before applying the first full coat of clear dope. Apply 3 or more coats of clear dope.
Sand with 220 3M Tri-M-Ite or other no-load paper. Keep in mind that extra coats of dope will add weight. Sig Lite Coat
clear dope may be used in place of Supercoat Clear if desired. It has low shrink characteristics and is less likely to warp.

Three coats of clear should provide a good base for color. Sand lightly when dry with 220 grit 3-M Tri-M-Ite no-load paper.
The color dope may be brushed or sprayed.

Supercoat Color Dope should be thinned with 10% or more Supercoat Thinner for brushing. This helps prevent brush
marks and gives smoother coats. Flow on wet coats and avoid rebrushing back over an area already painted. For
spraying, thin dope about 50 - 50. Add more thinner if the dope does not go on evenly.

If high humidity causes the dope to "blush" or turn white, the test way to handle this problem is to wait until the humidity
situation improves and apply another coat of dope. This will eliminate the blush. If it is necessary to dope during high
humidity, Sig Retarder may be used in place of part of the Supercoat Thinner (amount depends on the humidity) to reduce
the tendency to blush.

Painting the entire model white is recommended for a good color base, particularly when white is part of the color scheme.
Color coats can be sanded with 360 Tri-M-Ite or 400 or finer wet paper. When using masking tape for trimming, seal the
edge with a coat of clear dope to prevent the color dope from bleeding under the edge. Don't leave the masking tape on
any longer than necessary. The longer it is on, the harder it sticks.

Complete the job with several sprayed coats of clear over the color scheme. This seals the colors and adds gloss. For best
results, it is not a good idea to try to mix different brands of paint. Use SIG products from the start.

A CURE FOR FUSELAGE WARPING

You may have noticed when a piece of balsa is doped on one side and not the other, it will curl. The same
thing can happen on the fuselage sides, under the wing opening, particularly when you put on a number of
coats. (The rest of the fuselage will not show this effect to any extent because it is four sided and cannot
distort.) The effect isn't noticable until after full cure of the dope and aging, which may take several months.
To prevent this from happening, give the inside fuselage a coat of dope every time you give the outside a
coat. This has an added advantage in making the cabin area fuel proof. In addition, when the hardwood
servo mounts are installed, have them a little over-long so that the cabin sides are bulged slightly outward.

Finishing The Plastic

The plastic parts should be sanded to remove the gloss before they are painted. Don't use coarse sandpaper, which can
cut deep scratches. These scratches may open up during doping (which softens the plastic) and become more noticeable.
Instead use something like 220 3-M Tri-M-Ite no load silicon paper to start and polish down with 360 Tri-M-Ite or 400 wet
paper before color doping.

The plastic cowling and wheel covers may be painted with Sig Supercoat Dope. Care should be used not to apply heavy,
wet coats of dope. Put on light coats and allow them to dry thoroughly before applying a second coat. A spray gun is a
good method of getting a good finish with a minimum amount of dope. Be especially careful with spray cans not to wet the
plastic too much. Spray several light dusting coats with adequate drying time allowed. Plastic may also be painted with Sig
Plastinamel, Sig Skybrite, K&B Super Poxy, Hobbypoxy or DuPont Dulux Enamel.

CANOPY: We recommend Sig Plastinamel or Sig Skybrite for painting the framing outlines on the canopy. Dope is very
difficult to use on canopy plastic because of its warping action. Epoxy paint can be used, but it does not stick on the plastic
quite as well as Plastinamel or Skybrite. Sanding the gloss off the plastic will help adhesion. Other enamels and plastic
paints can be used, but test in advance on scrap. Glue the canopy on right after the paint is dry.

Decals
Decals are not furnished in the kit. See Sig catalog for special Kougar decals. The water-slide type will not adhere well to
plastic film covering. For plastic-film covered Kougars, get Stik-Tite pressure sensitive decals. Stik-Tites can be used on
any surface but are slightly thicker than water-slide decals
.

Stik-Tite Water-Slide
Cut out the decals with a pair Dip the decals in water for a few seconds, remove and allow the
of sharp scissors. Leave moisture to soak into the backing to completely loosen the glue. Don't
1/32" to 1/16" of clear edge slide the decal off too soon, it may tear. Slide about 1/4" of decal at the
around the decal. Round bottom over the edge of the backing and align on the surface. Hold decal
corners when cutting. Wet the and carefully slide away the backing from underneath. Use a small
surface on which the decal paddle of 1/8" sheet balsa about 3/8" wide as a squeegee to remove
will be placed with soapy excess water from under the decal. Hold down one edge with a similar
water (dishwater detergent). paddle while squeegeeing to prevent the decal from being moved. Allow
Place the decal on the model plenty of time for the glue under the decal to dry before wiping away the
and squeegee the water from excess glue remaining on the surface of the model with a damp cloth.
underneath with a balsa The decals are fuel-resistant with most fuels but will dissolve in dope or
paddle. Allow to dry. This cement. Do not try to dope over decals. Some types of clear fuel proofer
procedure will prevent air may be used over decals to increase durability but test them before
from being trapped applying. Leave about 1/16" of clear top coat around the decal stars
underneath as is possible when cutting them out of the sheet. Round corners to prevent tearing.
when the decals are applied
dry.

96. Assemble the tank hardware as shown in the photo. Two vent pipes are used
when your engine is equipped with a pressure tap. Run a line from one to the
muffler tap. Put a piece of tubing on the other, running outside the cowl for
filling. Pump fuel into this until it overflows into the muffler line. Then plug the
filling hole with a 4-40 bolt. If pressure is not used, install only one vent. Fill by
removing needle valve line, pumping into it until fuel runs out the vent. Bring it
out the bottom of the cowl so raw fuel can't spray on the canopy. You can also
use pressure on a single vent tank by filling through the needle valve line and
letting the line to the muffler top be the overflow vent. See "TIPS ON TANKS" for
more information.

CUTTING HOLES IN THE COWL

These pictures show other cowlings but the same principles apply
to the Kougar cowl.

Drill a series of holes, about 1/8" nearly touching each other. Cut
through the wall remaining with a knife. A slit through the back
behind the motor will aid removal. Cut the hole for the head with
the carburetor off of the motor so it will be out of the way and then
enlarge as required to pass the carb, needle valve, etc.

The best way to open up the hole is to go around the edges with
an "applepeeling" motion, paring off a small amount of plastic
with each stroke.
.

NOSE GEAR

97. a. The nose gear is held in the nylon bearing by the steering arm. Angle the
arm forward so that when the servo pulls it back for a left turn, the arm will
clear the face of the firewall.
b. A flexible steel cable pushrod with nylon outer tubing (not furnished) is
recommended for the hookup of the nose gear, such as the SIGSH559
Flexible Cable Pushrod. Run the nylon outer tubing through the firewall at
the right spot to connect the inner cable to the nylon steering arm. Epoxy
around the tubing at the firewall so that no oil will leak into the fuselage.

Clevises

Clevises supplied in the kit may be

metal or plastic. If the pins fit too tightly
in the nylon horns, open up the hole
with a No. 51 drill.

Servo Hook-Ups
Having the proper connector makes servo installation much easier. We show
here a variety of ways to attach push rods to servos.

The Rocket City 07 Du Bro Ball Links, which

Pushrod Retainer works come in several different
okay for hooking the types, threaded, bolt-on,
wooden push rods to the rivet, etc., gets the push
servo unless the rod action up above the
movement or pushrod control arm so the
angle chosen makes it pushrod can approach
bump into the center post from a variety of angles
of the servo at the without any chance of
extreme end of the interfering with the servo
movement. (This can be fixed by changing the angle center post. It is good for
of approach to the servo or using a longer arm to cable pushrods. A fine
bring the retainer out farther away from the center adjustment can be made
post of the servo.) This retainer is very easy to attach by screwing the end in or out.
and detach.

The SIGSH736 pushrod The SIGSH184 or

connector is handy for Goldberg Snap'R Keeper
cable end attachment, as can be installed on a wire
on the nosewheel push rod after it is bent,
steering arm, but can due to the design of the
also be used on servos body of the fitting.
as shown. They are
easily adjustable by
loosening the screw and
sliding the cable.
.

You should decide on which type of fittings you will use in the case of the cable
pushrods and have them on hand during fitting construction because the type
chosen will affect the location of the pushrod exit holes through the firewall, etc.
The balsa pushrods to the rudder and elevator are not limited as to location and
can be adapted to any of the types of connectors shown without preliminary
planning of exact position.
Some of the variety of detachable pushrod retainers for securing the push rod
wires to the servo that are available are shown here. Or you can make a "Z" bend
in the end of the wires to go into the servo. When a "Z" bend is used, the pushrod
must be put onto the servo outside of the fuselage and then threaded through the
fuselage, which is more difficult to manage than the pushrod alone, as is the case
when a retainer fitting is used.
5/16" square balsa sticks are provided to make the fuselage pushrods that run to the elevator and rudder. Bind the fittings
to each end with heavy thread and epoxy glue. Use threaded rods with HC links at the tail end of the pushrods so that
trimming adjustments can be quickly made. Straight pieces of 1/16" diameter wire are provided for the other end of the
pushrods to allow hookup with the servo arm.

PREPARING CABLE PUSHRODS

To keep ends of cable from
unraveling during handling, tin the
end with solder. Use a non-corrosive
paste flux (shown here is Kester,
available at hardware stores) and
rosin core solder. Have a hot iron
and flow the solder completely
through the cable.

Grind or file the end smooth. Bring it

to a point so that it will easily insert
into the pushrod fittings.
After the proper length is arrived at, sweat solder the area to be cut so that it
will not fray and unravel while being cut. It can be cut with a good pair of side-
cutting pliers, filed in two, ground through on the edge of a grinding tool, or cut
with a silicon cutting wheel on a motor tool.

RADIO EQUIPMENT INSTALLATION

The most convenient method of installing servos is on the plastic mounts which most radio equipment makers offer with
their outfits or as an accessory. These are screwed to hardwood mounting rails for fuselage servos or to hardwood blocks
for mounting in the wings. Instructions for the use of these mounts are included with them.

A flexible cable pushrod with nylon outer tubing (not furnished) is recommended for hookup of the throttle to the motor
control servo.

A variety of quickly detachable pushrod retainers are available from Sig Catalog for hooking the pushrods to the servos.
SIGSH184 pushrod retainers are recommended, or a solder clevis (SIGSH527) may be used.

Servos, for which plastic mounts are not available can be screwed directly to the two 3/8" square hardwood rails placed
across the cabin, three abreast, as shown in the accompanying drawing. With rubber grommets installed in the servo
mounting holes, mark the spots for drilling the pilot holes for screws. Space the servos at least 1/8" apart and do not have
then contacting the hardwood mounting rails except on the grommets. Using a washer on the wood screws, mount the
servos to the rails. Do not tighten the screws down against the grommets since this will cause vibration to be transferred to
the servos. The washer should just rest against the grommet without compressing.

The receiver battery pack should be wrapped in foam rubber sheet, held on with rubber bands. It is a good idea to put the
package in a small plastic bag, taped shut around the battery cable to protect the battery from leakage.

The receiver should be similarly wrapped up in foam rubber to protect it from engine vibration. Cover it with a plastic bag
also. Stow this package just in front of the servos. Make certain that the receiver will stay in place.
.

Radio installation in one of the prototype Kougars A UM-3 plastic mount on the 3/8" sq. crosspieces holds three EK-MM
servos. The receiver is wrapped in a foam rubber package and stowed just ahead of the servos.

Some RC outfits have one or more reverse direction servos which are handy when it is found more convenient in a
particular installation to have a pushrod hook to the servo on the opposite side.

In this installation, using Logictrol SM servos, the battery and receiver have been semi-permanently installed. WIth scrap
balsa crosspieces holding the foam rubber wrapped packages in place. The motor and nose wheel pushrods are tacked to
the crosspiece over the receiver with 5-minute epoxy. If necessary to remove the equipment, break out the battery
retaining cross-piece and pull out the battery and the receiver, leaving the receiver retaining strip in place. (Some Kougars
may need the battery in the nose under the tank for proper balance.)

Control Movemants
Various brands of servos can give different control movement direction and amounts of travel. For this reason, follow the
measurements below when setting the Kougar up for flight rather than any particular horn hole drawn in this book or visible
in a Kougar picture. Shift the RC link to whatever horn hole will produce the amount of movement shown in the drawings
below. Measurements are made at the trailing edge of the control surface.

The control measurements shown should give full aerobatic capability. Test flights may indicate a need for more or less
movement, depending on individual model differences, C.G. location, your personal preferences, etc. (Flight Tests may
determine that the neutral point should vary slightly from level but for purposes of illustration the neutral point is shown
level.)

For training purposes, do not carry

excessive elevator movement. Use only
enough to properly perform a nice sized
loop at full travel. Over control with
excessive movement can get a novice in
trouble. After you are more expert,
additional movement can be used, if
desired, for quick snaps and other
violent maneuvers.
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WHY MODELS MUST BE

INDIVIDUALLY BALANCED

It is impossible to produce a kit that

will automatically have the correct
Center of Gravity (C.G.) position.
Balsa wood varies in weight and it is
easily possible for wood in the tail to
be an ounce or more heavier or
Balancing lighter than average. One ounce of
extra weight in the tail has to be
countered by about 3 ounces in the
The recommended Center of Gravity locations are: nose. Don't pile a lot of fillercoat or
finish, use excess glue or make large

Test Fly with the balance point located anywhere between the leading edge at fillets on the tail surfaces. The motor
the wing tip and 1/2" back from the leading edge at the wing tip. you choose, whether or not a muffler

Sport Fly at 1/2" back from the Leading Edge at the wing tip. is fitted, the size and placement of

Aerobatics - If your model will spin in both directions at 1/2" it need not be your radio equipment, etc. all affect
moved back any further. Some models need the balance point at 3/4" back for the balance. If you use an unusually
full response. heavy motor or muffler you may have
to carry the battery in the radio
compartment instead of the nose or
Flying with the balance point any farther back than 1" from the tip is not even weight the tail. Don't consider
recommended unless you are an expert flier, with a purpose for doing so. that whatever C.G. the model builds
out to as "good enough". Check
carefully and make whatever
For the first test flight, balance the Kougar by suspending it on the finger tips placed adjustments that are required. With
on the bottom of the wing on the first mark. Balance with an empty fuel tank, but with the C.G. properly located, a Sig
all other equipment installed and the model completely finished and painted. Add design should fly with only minor trim
lead to the nose, if necessary, to get the model to hang level. Be sure and fasten the changes required.
weight securely. Do not attempt flight tail heavy.

The "Test Flying" position is on the nose heavy side. When slightly nose heavy, the model is more stable and less likely to stall
or snap roll from over-elevating. It also cuts down reaction of the model to control movements and this is good during test and
practice flights, to help prevent overcontrolling. After the model has been test flown and initial trimming accomplished you may
want a little quicker response. Move the balance back slowly and check results in the air.

Some aerobatic capability is sacrificed with the forward C.G. positions, so for making deliberate snap rolls and spins a position
farther back may be required. Move the C.G. back slowly and check results and control response in the air at a good altitude.
Don't move the C.G. back any farther than necessary.

BALANCE IS PART OF THE TRIMMING PROCESS

The balance point we arrived at for this design is a good place to start when trimming out the model for top
performance. However, it should not be considered the final and irrevocable location. Individual models built
from the same kit are slightly different from each other. The incidence may be changed a bit, a small or large
engine selected, the total weight varies - even the skill of the pilot has bearing on just what should be the exact
C.G. point. For example, when slightly nose heavy, the model is more stable and less likely to stall or snap roll
from over-elevating. This also cuts down the reaction of the model to control movements which is good during
test and practice flights to help prevent overcontrolling. But later, if extra sensitivity and quick reactions are
desired for aerobatic performance, a position farther back may be desirable. So try different positions, but
make the changes gradually, checking results and the effect of the change control responses and the
performance of the model in the air at a good altitude.
.

FLYING

IMPORTANT: The Kougar is not a basic trainer. If you have no previous RC flying experience you cannot successfully fly
a fast and responsive design like the Kougar, particularly on test flights. It is suggested that you not attempt flying without
the assistance of a modeler with experience. Contact your local model club or ask your hobby dealer for the names of
good fliers in your vicinity and a suitable location for flying.

Many hours of work are involved in the

construction of a model and it can all
be lost in a moment of beginner's
indecision. A skilled flier can help you
get past the first critical test and
trimming flights without damage to the
model and give instruction in proper
control.

Be certain to carefully range check your

radio equipment and see how it
operates with the engine running
before attempting test flights.

A lot of problems can be avoided if the engine has been well broken-in and the idle adjustment perfected on a test block or
in another airplane before installation in the model.

Takeoffs with the Kougar from grass

fields are easily made if the grass is not
too long or the ground too rough.
Generally a lot of elevator application is
required for liftoff.

Be prepared to relax control pressure

partially after becoming airborne so the
climbout will not be too steep. On
surfaced or smooth dirt runways less
application of elevator will be needed.

If a good, smooth take-off surface is not available, the model can be hand launched by the pilot's assistant. (Do not
attempt to hand launch by yourself --- instant action on the transmitter may be required.) Holding the front part of the
fuselage with the left hand and under the tail with the right, run into the wind at a fast trot and thrust the model forward with
the nose slightly up in a spear throwing motion. It is not necessary to achieve a lot of velocity in the launch-it is more
important that it be released smoothly and with the wings level. The model may dip slightly and then should begin climbing
at a slight angle. If it does not begin to climb after about fifty feet of flight, apply a small amount of up to lift the nose. Use
hand launching only as a last resort.

Use the ailerons to keep the wings level and headed straight into the wind until about seventy-five feet of altitude is
obtained. Keep first turns gentle and not steeply banked. Stay up wind of the transmitter. Use trim levers on your radio
equipment where necessary to obtain straight and level flight with the control sticks in neutral position but don't attempt to
make these adjustments until the model is at a good altitude. Throttle back at altitude to find out the model characteristics
in a gliding condition so that some indication is seen of what to expect during the landing approach. It is a good idea to
make several practice landing approaches at a good altitude to get the feel of the model for this approaching critical
maneuver. Make your final and complete landing approach while your engine still has plenty of fuel remaining so that the
engine is not liable to stop before completion of the flight. This will allow application of power if the approach is undershot.
Notice the percentage of missed landings at an R/C flying field. Those undershot greatly outnumber those missed by
overshooting. So, if an approach that looks a little high is maintained, chances are good that a spotlanding can be made.
After each test flight, readjust the RC clevis links on the pushrods so that the trim levers on the transmitter can be returned
to a neutral position. It will take several flights before exact trim is established on all axis of flight.

Print, cut out and join the following pages together in order for the plans.
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© Copyright SIG Mfg. Co., Inc.

SIG MFG. CO., INC.

Montezuma, Iowa 50171-0520

LIMIT OF LIABILITY:
In use of our products, Sig Mfg. Co.'s only
obligation shall be to replace such quantity of
the product proven to be defective. User shall
determine the suitability of the product for his or
her intended use and shall assume all risk and
liability in connection therewith.