HA NOI UNIVERSITY OF SCIENSE AND TECHNOLOGY

SCHOOL OF MATERIALS SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING

FACULTY OF TEXTILES - FOOTWEAR AND FASHION
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REPORT
Technical Writing and Presentation
THE INTERSECTION BETWEEN TRADITIONAL AND MODERN

VIETNAMESE FASHION
Group-2
Class code: 155702
Instructor: TS. Chu Dieu Huong

1 Tran Van Anh 20218253

2 Hoang Thi Minh Anh 20218239
3 Vu Thi Linh Chi 20218264
4 Le Thi Ngan 20218368
5 Ho Thi Quynh Trang 20218449

Ha Noi, December 30, 2024

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 THE INTERSECTION BETWEEN TRADITIONAL AND MODERN

VIETNAMESE FASHION

Abstract

This report examines the fusion of traditional and modern aesthetics in Vietnamese
fashion, epitomized by the enduring legacy of the ao dai. It emphasizes the cultural and
historical significance of traditional garments as symbols of national identity and explores
their creative transformation to meet contemporary fashion standards. By blending
tradition with innovation, Vietnamese fashion emerges as a dynamic expression of
heritage in the globalized era.

Additionally, the study addresses challenges posed by globalization, such as cultural

dilution and the rise of fast fashion, while highlighting sustainable practices and
technological advancements as key enablers for the industry. The report underscores the
pivotal role of young talent, government support, and cultural pride in driving the
preservation and international recognition of Vietnamese fashion.

Ultimately, this report celebrates the adaptability and creativity of Vietnamese fashion,
presenting it as a vibrant interplay of legacy and modernity—a testament to the nation’s
ability to innovate while honoring its roots.

1. Introduction
1.1. Reason
o The importance of fashion in preserving and developing national culture

Fashion has become a living archive of cultural heritage, preserving traditional patterns,
materials, and designs that define a nation’s identity. Traditional textiles, such as brocade,
ikat, and batik, represent centuries of craftsmanship and cultural storytelling. Each piece
reflects a unique blend of local history, cultural values, and artistic techniques, ensuring
that these elements endure over time. For instance, brocade handwoven by Vietnam’s
ethnic minorities showcases geometric patterns and natural dyes that have been perfected
over generations. These textiles are not merely decorative but are deeply symbolic, often
used in ceremonies or passed down as family heirlooms. Similarly, Japanese kimono
fabrics, meticulously dyed and woven, preserve Japan’s rich artistic traditions while
continuing to symbolize cultural pride. Beyond textiles, traditional craftsmanship such as
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embroidery and natural dyeing ensures that intangible cultural heritage is carried forward.
Techniques like the H’mong people’s batik dyeing in Vietnam or Mexico’s huipil
embroidery are maintained as both cultural expressions and sources of livelihood. These
crafts are often tied to specific communities, serving as markers of identity and resilience
in a rapidly globalizing world.

Traditional clothing transcends its practical function to become a profound symbol of

national pride and cultural identity. These garments embody the spirit, history, and
artistic traditions of their respective nations, connecting people to their heritagee. Áo dài
in Vietnam, with its elegant form and flowing lines, not only highlights the grace and
beauty of Vietnamese women but also symbolizes the nation’s values of modesty,
harmony, and resilience [1]. Similarly, the Japanese kimono reflects the artistry and
craftsmanship of Japan, showcasing intricate patterns and designs that often hold spiritual
or seasonal significance. Meanwhile, the sari in India repy and richness of Indian culture,
with each region boasting unique styles, weaves, and motifs.

Fashion evolves by adapting traditional elements to suit modern contexts. By

reinterpreting traditional designs into contemporary styles, fashion ensures that cultural
heritage remains relevant and accessible in today's society. Designers often draw
inspiration from historical attire, textiles, and symbols, skillfully blend traditional and
modern elements to create unique pieces that resonate globally. This fusion not only
highlights the beauty of tradition but also narrates compelling cultural stories. For
example, Vietnamese Ao Dai, once declining in popularity, has been revitalized by
designers who integrate modern features and traditional motifs like lotus flowers and
dragon designs [2]. These innovations preserve cultural identity while appealing to
contemporary audiences. Additionally, unique products, such as sneakers featuring Hue
royal patterns, merge history with modernity, creating meaningful connections through
storytelling [2]. By incorporating traditional techniques or fabrics into contemporary
designs, designers help preserve time-honored practices, ensuring that they are passed
down to future generations in a form that resonates with the globalized world.

o The role of fashion in globalization trends

Fashion, in its multifaceted forms, has become a vital bridge for cross-cultural connection
in today’s globalized world. By showcasing the unique elements of a nation’s culture,
fashion becomes a vehicle for sharing and celebrating diversity. Through international
collaborations, fashion shows, and events such as Fashion Weeks, countries present their
cultural heritage to a global audience. These platforms allow designers to express
national identities while simultaneously creating spaces for cross-cultural exchange. As a
result, fashion not only transcends borders but also bridges cultural gaps, highlighting
both the commonalities and differences between nations. International fashion events,
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such as the Milan Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week, are prime examples of how
fashion fosters global dialogue. Designers from around the world bring elements of their
local cultures to the runway, creating a platform for cultural exchange. For example,
Vietnamese designer Ha Linh Thu launched a collection inspired by the traditional Ao
Dai, a symbol of Vietnam’s cultural heritage, reinterpreted with contemporary design
elements. This collection not only celebrated the elegance of Vietnamese heritage but
also resonated with a global audience, sparking dialogue about Vietnam’s rich cultural
roots within a modern context. Similarly, African designers, such as Imane Ayissi, have
incorporated traditional African fabrics like kente and Ankara into haute couture fashion
shows, blending their heritage with modern aesthetics to highlight Africa’s cultural
diversity on the world stage. Additionally, international collaborations between designers,
brands, and artisans from various countries have become a powerful tool for cultural
exchange. Through these partnerships, designers infuse their collections with diverse
cultural influences, resulting in unique, cross-cultural designs that captivate global
audiences. For example, the collaboration between Italian fashion house Dolce &
Gabbana and Indian artisans in 2017 saw the use of traditional Indian embroidery
techniques in high-fashion garments, a blend of Italian luxury and Indian craftsmanship
that resonated with audiences worldwide. Furthermore, fashion’s role in cultural
exchange extends beyond the runway. The influence of fashion extends to everyday life,
where cultural trends are adopted and adapted by people around the world. Through
social media platforms, influencers and fashion bloggers play an essential role in
disseminating and interpreting cultural influences. For instance, the rise of South Korean
fashion through K-pop idols has led to a global fascination with Korean fashion trends,
influencing global street style and luxury brands.

The globalization of fashion is a powerful force that contributes significantly to economic

growth, influencing multiple sectors including trade, tourism, and job creation. The
fashion industry not only creates direct economic benefits through the sale of apparel and
accessories but also generates substantial indirect benefits through the growth of related
industries such as textile production, design services, and retail. For example, countries
like Italy and France, which are renowned for their fashion heritage, benefit from the
international demand for their products, leading to increased exports. Tourism is another
area where fashion plays a pivotal role. Major fashion events, such as Paris Fashion
Week, Milan Fashion Week, and New York Fashion Week, attract global visitors, further
boosting local economies through tourism and hospitality. The economic impact of these
events extends beyond the fashion industry, benefiting hotels, restaurants, transportation,
and retail businesses in host cities. Additionally, the fashion industry fosters job creation
across a wide range of sectors. From designers and manufacturers to marketers, event
coordinators, and salespeople, the fashion industry provides employment opportunities in
both developing and developed countries.

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1.2. Research objectives
o Analyze the blending of traditional and modern elements in Vietnamese fashion

Through the study of traditional and modern fashion, this research seeks to delve into the
harmonious integration of traditional cultural elements - such as motifs, materials, and
techniques - into modern Vietnamese fashion. Traditional fashion is not merely a
reflection of Vietnam's cultural identity but also an embodiment of its history, values, and
artistic heritage. These elements hold profound symbolic significance and serve as a
bridge connecting past traditions with present-day creativity.

The study also understands how traditional features are preserved while being
transformed to align with the evolving tastes and demands of modern consumers. It
examines the delicate process of balancing the authenticity and essence of cultural
heritage with the innovation and functionality required in modern fashion. This
exploration highlights the ongoing dialogue between the preservation of tradition and the
embrace of modernity, which defines the unique character of Vietnamese fashion.

In addition to preserving cultural identity, the study also explores how Vietnamese
fashion can be positioned on the global stage. The integration of traditional elements into
modern designs not only revitalizes national heritage but also enhances its appeal to
international audiences.

By analyzing this interplay, the research aims to provide a nuanced perspective on the
challenges and opportunities involved in blending tradition with innovation. It seeks to
illuminate the strategies and creative approaches that allow Vietnamese fashion to retain
its cultural soul while adapting to the rapid changes of a globalized fashion landscape.

o Propose development directions for Vietnamese fashion

This study aims to outline key development directions for Vietnamese fashion, with a
focus on strategies that can elevate the industry both locally and globally. A primary focus
will be on enhancing the global visibility of Vietnamese fashion, ensuring that its
distinctive cultural identity is recognized worldwide. The study will also highlight the
importance of education, proposing the establishment of programs dedicated to
traditional Vietnamese fashion, to deepen understanding of its historical and cultural
significance. Finally, the study will emphasize the importance of nurturing young
designers who can blend innovation with traditional elements, fostering an environment
where the industry can evolve while maintaining its rich heritage.

2. Overview of Traditional and Modern Fashion

2.1. Traditional Vietnamese Fashion
o Traditional Vietnamese Fashion

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Traditional Vietnamese attire is not merely clothing but also a narrative of the nation's
history, culture, and spirit. First, traditional clothing vividly reflects the cultural identity
of each ethnic group and region, showcasing unique characteristics and distinctions.
Secondly, from the choice of materials and colors to the intricate patterns and motifs,
every detail carries the wearer’s emotions and sentiments-for example, red symbolizes
good fortune, while black represents nobility. Moreover, traditional attire also conveys
social status, especially in feudal society, where the garments of kings and mandarins
were distinct from those of commoners. Additionally, traditional clothing serves as a
historical witness, preserving the cultural and spiritual values of the nation through
various eras. Finally, traditional attire acts as a bridge connecting the past, present, and
future, inspiring younger generations to cherish and uphold the cultural heritage of
Vietnam.

The ao dai is a traditional Vietnamese attire characterized by its form-fitting design with
slits at the sides and two straight panels at the front and back. Typically, the ao dai avoids
traditional patterns or accessories, maintaining a simple yet elegant style. Made from
traditional silk, the ao dai not only enhances the gentle, modest, yet alluring beauty of
Vietnamese women but also carries profound cultural significance. Its form-fitting
silhouette accentuates the soft curves of the wearer, showcasing sophistication in fashion.
During festivals and significant events such as weddings, engagements, or the Lunar New
Year (Tet), the ao dai is often the preferred choice, blending traditional and modern
elements while reflecting the wearer’s personality and aesthetic sense. Beyond being just
a garment, the ao dai symbolizes a connection to homeland and culture, evoking a sense
of nostalgia for Vietnamese expatriates and embodying the rich essence of national
identity.

The ao ba ba is a unique traditional attire of Southern Vietnam, embodying simplicity

and closeness. The shirt is collarless, with the back made from a single piece of fabric,
while the front consists of two panels with a row of buttons running from the neck to the
waist. Its fitted waistline, moderate side slits, and length extending past the hips
gracefully highlight the wearer’s figure. The ao ba ba often features bright colors such as
blue, green, red, or yellow, with a flat collar and wide sleeves, ensuring comfort for the
wearer. The pants are long, wide, and crafted from lightweight materials like cotton or
knit fabric, usually in black or gray, complementing the shirt. A long scarf, worn around
the neck or shoulders, adds an elegant touch and serves practical purposes, such as
wiping sweat or tying hair, especially for elderly individuals. Traditionally made from
silk or brocade, the ao ba ba is both lightweight and breathable, making it suitable for the
hot Southern climate and activities like farming, rowing, and labor. Beyond its
practicality, the ao ba ba symbolizes the rustic, simple lifestyle of Southern Vietnamese
people. It holds a high cultural value and is often worn during cultural events, festivals, or
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reenactments of traditional life, helping to preserve and promote the rich heritage of the
nation.

The ao tu than is a traditional garment worn by Vietnamese women, characterized by a

design with four panels: two front panels and two back panels. The front panels are sewn
separately, while the back panels are stitched together to form the back seam. The length
of the shirt typically extends about 20 cm below the knee, and it does not have buttons
but instead is fastened with ties at the front or a separate belt. The shirt has long sleeves,
tightly fitted at the arms, and the hem reaches near the ankles. It is commonly worn with
a black vay dup. Inside, the ao tu than is often paired with an ao yem. The ao yem has
specific color rules: young girls wear a bright red one, while older women wear brown or
darker shades. The ao yem is worn underneath a thin white blouse and tied with a green
belt, creating a neat and graceful overall look. The traditional materials for the ao tu than
are silk, cotton, or coarse fabric. This garment carries deep cultural significance. The two
front panels symbolize the woman’s birth parents, while the back panels represent her in-
laws. The ao yem worn inside represents the image of parents lovingly holding and
protecting their children. The ao tu than reflects the beauty of traditional Vietnamese
women, and it plays an important role in transmitting cultural values and the nation’s
customs. The image of a simple and modest woman in her ao tu than, paired with a non
quai thao and wooden clogs, embodies elegance and grace.

The ao cham, also known as sua tay lam, is a traditional garment meticulously crafted
from indigo-dyed fabric. The sewing process begins by folding the fabric into four parts
to cut the side seams and then stitching the back seam. The inner shoulder section, called
“lop hua,” is the most challenging part to make. The Thái people typically design the ao
cham with seven buttons, known as cuc dau ruoi. These buttons are crafted from a strip
of fabric approximately 40 cm long and 2 cm wide, folded tightly and securely stitched.
Making these buttons requires advanced skills, as loose stitching causes them to fall off,
while overly tight stitching makes fastening difficult. Women often pair skirts or trousers
with a short blouse underneath and a long outer shirt. Depending on the local terrain,
some groups wear slightly shorter shirts, and others wrap scarves into pointed shapes on
their heads. A typical traditional outfit includes a blouse, long shirt, skirt or trousers, belt,
headscarf, and fabric shoes. The blouse is a short, four-panel design with a round collar
and two small pockets on the front panels, usually made from indigo or white fabric.
During festivals, women often layer the blouse beneath the long shirt for added elegance.
Men’s attire is simpler, consisting of a short blouse called slua com, a long shirt, trousers,
and fabric shoes. The men’s four-panel blouse features a round collar, front buttons
(seven fabric buttons), side slits, and two small front pockets. For special occasions such
as Tet, festivals, or ceremonies, men wear a long shirt with a right-side slit and fabric
buttons. The trousers are also made from indigo-dyed cotton fabric, styled with a

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moderate gusset and length reaching the ankles. They have a wide waistband secured
with an outer tie. The ao cham is made from handwoven cotton fabric dyed with indigo,
with little to no embroidery or decorative elements. This attire not only represents a close
connection to nature but also embodies cultural values, symbolizing harmony and
simplicity in the lives of its wearers.

There are also many traditional costumes of Vietnam's ethnic minority groups, such as the
H’mong, Cham, and Muong, which reflect the unique cultural characteristics and
identities of each ethnic group across the country.

2.2. Modern Fashion in Vietnam

o Influences from international fashion

"Fashion culture is the way people integrate their lifestyle and personal taste into
clothing" – a definition of the term "fashion culture" from 20th Century Fashion.
Fashion, in this sense, began to emerge globally in the early 20th century, shaped by
economic, political, and artistic trends. These factors gave rise to clothing styles
embraced across all social classes, forming universal fashion trends. Originating in
Europe and the United States, these trends influenced the world both in form and
ideology. The ao dai, Vietnam's iconic traditional garment, underwent modernization at
the turn of the 20th century due to Western cultural influence. Redesigned with vibrant
colors and a streamlined silhouette, it accentuated the beauty of Vietnamese women. The
refined modesty of the traditional ao tu than blended with Western elegance under the
designs of artists like Le Pho and Nguyen Cat Tuong. This adaptation marked the
beginning of the ao dai as a modern yet subtle fashion piece showcasing feminine grace.
In the 1950s, innovations like collarless designs and off-the-shoulder styles popularized
by figures such as Madame Tran Le Xuan sparked significant public attention. Rapid,
daring changes followed, including sleeveless styles, wave-like embellishments, and bold
tailoring choices. By the 1960s, the ao dai adopted Western-style raglan sleeves and
tailored waists, which became enduring features. The 1968 Hippy wave, stemming from
Western and American culture, influenced Southern Vietnam, introducing the "mini ao
dai" with narrower panels, lower necklines, and high slits, often paired with flared or
Western-style trousers. After the war, as Vietnam focused on economic recovery, the ao
dai saw a decline in use. However, the ao dai made a grand comeback in 1988 during the
first Miss Áo Dài competition organized by the Ho Chi Minh City Women's Newspaper.
This revival spurred creative innovations, including Minh Hanh's ethnic-inspired ao dai
and Si Hoang's painted designs, drawing inspiration from Vietnam's diverse ethnic
heritage. These modern takes reaffirmed the ao dai as a vibrant cultural symbol of
Vietnam

o Key trends: Minimalist style, technology application in fashion

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Minimalist fashion has become one of the key elements of the minimalist movement with
a rise in minimalist fashion bloggers promoting the value of reducing one’s wardrobe to a
bare minimum of essential items or a ‘capsule wardrobe’ with few, quality items that co-
ordinate. Emphasis is placed on timeless/classic fashion looks, as opposed to fast fashion
trends and there is a preference for simple, complimentary colour palettes and versatile
pieces. Minimalist fashion vloggers share videos of their own downsized capsule
wardrobe stand share tips and advice on how to create one (which are the antithesis to
‘haul videos’ in which vloggers show off their newly acquired purchases, fresh from their
shopping bags to their viewers). Minimalist ‘fashion challenges’ have also gained
increasing momentum (Wu, Boyd Thomas et al. 2013). Project 333, started by minimalist
blogger Courtney Carver of ‘[Link]’, instituted a challenge to dress in just
33 items over 3 months, a challenge which was popularly up taken across social media.
Similarly, ‘Labour behind the Label’ (a charity campaigning for the rights of garment
workers) instigated the ‘6 item challenge’ in which participants are challenged to wear
only 6 items of clothing over 6 weeks. Such challenges are intended to reduce the need
(or desire) for large quantities of clothes and to promote a steer away from fast fashion.
Collectively the sentiments of minimalist fashion and fashion challenges speak to a
rejection of conspicuous fashion consumption (Veblen 1899) towards a more considered
or ‘calculated’ consumption (Wu, Boyd Thomas et al. 2013) but one with a fashionable
and stylish edge. Minimalist fashion may therefore be re-branding ‘cutting back on
consumption’ from an undesirable form or miserly, traditional frugality (or a radical anti-
consumer/anti-capitalist movement) to a desirable, ascetically pleasing and fashionable
lifestyle choice which could therefore popularly promote sustainable consumption
practices. Minimalist fashion consumption supports the notion of the circular economy
because the focus on garment quality, rather than quantity, would suggest that clothes are
carefully valued and maintained throughout their life cycles, for them to last longer. Yet,
ultimately, minimalist fashion’s focus on not acquiring excessive/unnecessary garments
reduces the number of potential products in circular economy lifestyles all together.
Minimalist fashion could therefore be seen to be treating the cause, rather than the
symptoms of excessive fast- fashion consumption in which the cycle of consumption,
use, disposal and re-use is not started in the first place. Therefore, the rise in popularity of
minimalist fashion and its potential to encourage more sustainable consumption practices
renders it an important area of empirical and theoretical attention.

o The role of young designers

Firstly, a fashion designer is a person who designs clothing: they create costumes,
including clothes, and other kinds of fashion accessories such as shoes, bags, and jewelry
for the majority of consumers worldwide As Kawamura wrote in his book Fashionology:
“Designers are and must be portrayed as ‘stars’ in the production of fashion. With stars,
the fashion form shines in all its glory. Designers personify fashion and their designs
objectify fashion. Thus, designers and clothing are inseparable from the notion of
fashion”. Indeed, the first and foremost role of a fashion designer is to design fashion
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products. In theory, fashion designers play an important role in creating a fashion
product; in practice, creating a final product requires many people involved in various
stages from design, manufacture, distribution, and marketing. In other words, a fashion
designer is part of a collective that makes fashion products. However, they are primarily
responsible for designing the appearance of a product/ collection, deciding on shapes and
colors, as well as materials and methods of expression. A fashion designer will start with
an idea, do predesign research, and develop and realize the idea through sketches. Then
they move on to the next steps- working with technical designers and tailors until the
product is perfect. Therefore, in Kawamura's opinion, "the designer who personifies
fashion" implies that the designer is the one who leaves an impression and breathes spirit
into fashion products with his talent and creativity. Secondly, fashion designers play a
role in shaping and spreading fashion: Blumer (1969) argues that the influence of fashion
is a process of collective selection, whereby the formation of tastes begins from a group
of people who adhered to a monism or the “spirit of the times” .In addition, author Alison
Gwilt also asserts that “ the designer is often expected to lead the development of the
collection from the design stage to the sample-making stage, and will often be
accountable for key decisions during the process" . Thus, in the contemporary context,
fashion designers, with their strong creativity, are responsible for the continued impact of
fashion as a reflection of contemporary culture and can directly influence trends and
movements in the fashion industry, and designers are "responsible for creating trends”.
Each designer creates his own signature style, whether pursuing avant-garde style or
classic style. They are not only creating new trends, but also leading and shaping the style
of the brand. From haute couture to readyto-wear, or from the runways during fashion
weeks to street style, they all have their mark as fashion designers. Thirdly, the fashion
designer has a role to play in “lifestyle design”: It can be seen that a fashion designer has
a special role in relation to the lifestyle, due to the constant change of the era of “mass
production, mass consumption, mass communication”. On the one hand, the message
conveyed through each product can help designers communicate with customers. On the
other hand, the consumers’ choices also have an effect back and forth on the designers,
which is consistent with the focus already stated in the concept of fashion, and to some
extent, the relationship between product and user, or relationship between designer and
customer. Indeed, the interaction between designers and customers in modern society is a
conversation that is large and wide, as “an exclusive, designer-driven, customeroriented
exchange”. That influence is not limited to what people wear but also influences their
lifestyle, in other words, consumer awareness and concern for the environment and
society is evoked, driven, and stimulated by fashion. As such, as a designer, fashion
designers should have the best understanding of what they are doing and what is
happening in the industry. They need to be the pioneers in giving ideas and initiatives that
bring innovation in fashion, not only related to creative perspectives but also solving
existing problems. These embody the spirit of the times and provide a force for the
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development of fashion. We will discuss another important role of fashion designers in
the next section, which is to create innovation through theory and practice to figure out
alternatives for the future of the fashion industry

3. The Intersection Between Traditional and Modern Fashion

Vietnamese fashion embodies a delicate balance between cultural preservation and

contemporary transformation. The ao dai, a quintessential symbol of Vietnam, reflects
this intersection through its continuous evolution over centuries. Originally designed
within Confucian ideals of modesty and decorum, the ao dai has grown into a powerful
cultural artifact that blends timeless tradition with modern-day sensibilities. This
interplay has enabled the ao dai to retain its cultural roots while expanding its appeal in
an era of globalization.

3.1. Blended elements in fashion designs

o Using traditional materials with modern styles

The evolution of the ao dai over the centuries not only reflects changes in fashion trends
but also embodies the blending of traditional and modern elements. When the ao dai was
created in the 18th century, it was deeply linked to Confucian ideals, emphasizing
modesty and decorum in clothing. The original design of the ao dai featured long,
flowing panels, which conveyed elegance and grace while maintaining a sense of
propriety. The materials used at the time were predominantly silk, symbolizing
refinement and the wearer’s social status. Intricate embroidery and patterns became
integral elements of the garment, each stitch telling a story and reflecting cultural and
historical values.

By the 20th century, the influence of Western culture brought about notable changes in
the design and structure of the ao dai. In the 1930s, designer Nguyen Cat Tuong
introduced the revolutionary "Le Mur" ao dai, which incorporated Western tailoring
techniques and form-fitting design [6]. This innovation not only made the ao dai more
figure-flattering but also modernized the garment, adapting it to the tastes of women
during that time. It was the first significant step in adapting the ao dai to the needs of a
new, evolving society influenced by Western fashion trends.

o Innovative designs: Modernized Ao dai, contemporary ethnic dresses.

The following decades continued to see innovations in ao dai design. In the 1960s, the
raglan ao dai, with its loose sleeves and relaxed fit, marked a departure from the
traditional tightly fitted design, offering more comfort and ease of movement [6].
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Meanwhile, the introduction of the mini ao dai, with its shortened hemline, was a nod to
youthful exuberance, appealing to the younger generation. This period saw the ao
daitransition from a ceremonial garment to one that began to be worn in more casual,
everyday settings, symbolizing a blend of tradition and modernity.

By the 1990s, new societal trends and the ongoing push for modernization inspired even
more innovation in ao dai design. Designers like Minh Hanh revitalized traditional
elements while experimenting with new fabrics like brocade and introducing bold,
dynamic patterns. This shift reflected a desire to honor the garment’s deep cultural roots
while celebrating the vibrancy of Vietnam’s contemporary culture. These designs not
only paid homage to Vietnam’s rich heritage but also adapted to global fashion trends,
making the ao dai relevant in an increasingly globalized world [6].

Ao dai of Minh Hanh designer

In the present day, the ao dai continues to be crafted from innovative materials and
techniques. The use of traditional silk remains a hallmark of the ao dai, maintaining its
connection to Vietnamese culture, while the introduction of new technologies like digital
printing allows designers to create versatile and customized designs. Furthermore,
sustainable practices have emerged in ao dai production, with the use of natural dyes and
eco-friendly materials becoming more prevalent. These efforts help align the garment
with the growing demand for sustainable fashion in modern society. The ao dai’s design
has evolved to include practical adaptations such as office-friendly versions or casual

12
styles, which maintain its grace and dignity while fitting seamlessly into the lifestyle of
today’s fast-paced world.

Modern ao dai, though following the traditional form, is now a dynamic garment that
balances both historical craftsmanship and cutting-edge fashion. The incorporation of
traditional techniques alongside contemporary design ensures that the ao dai remains not
only a symbol of Vietnam’s culture but also a versatile and adaptable clothing item
suitable for various occasions. Each phase of the ao dai’s evolution has enhanced its
aesthetic appeal, cultural significance, and practical functionality, ensuring its continued
relevance in both Vietnam and on the global fashion stage.

3.2. Applications in daily life

o Streetwear, event, and festival attire

Ao dai, once a ceremonial garment, has transcended its original purpose to become a
prominent feature in many aspects of contemporary Vietnamese life. Today, it is
frequently worn in schools, workplaces, and even government institutions, where it is
commonly adopted as a uniform. This widespread use reinforces the ao dai’s role in
fostering national pride and cultural identity. Through its daily presence in modern life,
the ao dai has become more than just traditional dress-it serves as a constant reminder of
Vietnam's heritage, keeping the connection between contemporary Vietnamese people
and their roots alive. Its modernized versions, adapted to fit more dynamic environments,
make it both a practical and symbolic garment, bridging the gap between the past and
present.

Cultural events, festivals, and important occasions continue to showcase the ao dai in all
its elegance. Festivals such as the Hue Festival and other regional celebrations feature the
ao dai in fashion shows and performances, presenting it as both a historic symbol and a
modern artistic expression. These events play an essential role in introducing the ao dai to
a global audience, highlighting its timeless elegance and its potential to reflect Vietnam’s
evolving culture. International events, such as the Miss Universe competition, have also
given designers a global stage to present innovative ao dai designs, blending traditional
artistry with global fashion influences. These events emphasize how the ao dai has
become a statement of Vietnamese identity, an international showcase of culture,
creativity, and national pride.

There has been a significant effort to preserve the traditional methods used in the creation
of the ao dai. Workshops and initiatives aimed at reviving and sustaining traditional
artisanal crafts, like hand weaving and natural dyeing, have become central to preserving
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the authenticity of the garment. These efforts not only sustain local communities but also
ensure that time-honored techniques remain viable in the modern world. Collaborations
between contemporary designers and skilled artisans in craft villages are helping to
maintain the balance between tradition and modernity. Such collaborations help ensure
that the craftsmanship of the ao dai is not lost, while simultaneously allowing for new
creative influences that appeal to younger, more fashion-conscious generations.

o Promoting Vietnamese culture through international fashion events.

The ao dai's versatility in today’s world has allowed it to adapt to a range of settings
beyond just ceremonial contexts. Its modern interpretations now feature a variety of
asymmetrical cuts, bold color palettes, and diverse materials that appeal to both
traditionalists and trendsetters. For instance, in professional settings, business-oriented
versions of the áo dài are designed with simpler lines, offering more flexibility and
comfort without compromising the garment’s grace. The ao dai is no longer confined to
formal occasions alone; it has evolved into a casual garment worn by young people
during social gatherings, festivals, and casual events. Its adaptability means that it
resonates with both the younger generation looking for something fresh and those who
value its rich cultural symbolism.

As a living symbol, the ao dai continues to captivate new audiences across generations,
preserving its relevance and influence. While some may see it as a symbol of Vietnam’s
past, its continued reinvention speaks to its future—an evolving and dynamic garment
that is at once rooted in tradition and adaptable to modern trends. This unique ability to
adapt while maintaining a link to Vietnam's cultural past has made the ao dai a beloved
icon in Vietnamese fashion, perpetually evolving yet always staying true to its origins.
Whether worn in the classroom, office, at festivals, or international events, the ao dai
bridges past and present while continuing to capture the beauty and essence of
Vietnamese culture.

4. Significance and Challenges

4.1. Significance of the intersection

o Preserving and developing traditional culture

Vietnam has always been considered an endless cultural treasure, with many unique
heritages. Like other countries, Vietnamese costumes are always an endless source of
inspiration and national pride. Over time, in the process of integration, influenced by
clothing from many places, those values seem to gradually sink into oblivion.
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In recent years, people have gradually seen more ancient costumes appearing in everyday
life. Worth mentioning, the people who bring that beauty back to the present are young
people, with love, passion and a bit of unwillingness to see this quintessential value
disappear.

Fashion, a concept that may seem simple at first glance, holds within it profound layers
of meaning. It is not merely the clothes we wear but a lens that reflects the cultural
identity, history, and soul of a nation. For Vietnam, a country with a rich history and
vibrant cultural heritage, fashion becomes a medium to preserve and express traditional
values while seamlessly integrating into the contemporary flow. From traditional
garments imbued with historical significance to modern designs that echo the spirit of the
times, we witness a harmonious interplay between tradition and modernity, between
national identity and global trends. It is a narrative of inheritance and evolution, of
creativity and innovation, of national pride and aspirations to reach new horizons.

Vietnamese traditional costumes are not only clothes, but also priceless cultural heritages,
containing the spiritual values and deep beauty of the people. Each type of clothing, from
loose ao dai to discreet bodywear, carries its own characteristics, showing the ingenuity,
sophistication and traditional beauty of Vietnamese people through thousands of years of
history.

Ao dai, with an elegant ao dai, enhancing the graceful curve of a woman, has become a
symbol of Vietnamese beauty. From the familiar images of grandmothers, mothers in
pure white ao dai to innovative ao dai designs on the fashion show floor, ao dai always
carries a lot of charm, both traditional and modern. The history of ao dai has gone
through many stages of development, from four-body shirts, five-piece shirts to Lemur ao
dai, Le Po ao dai and modern ao dai today. Each period recorded changes in appearance,
quality and graphics, reflecting the cultural interference and development of the
commune.

Body clothes, traditional clothing of women in the North of Vietnam, bring a discreet,
gentle and happy beauty. With four lapels representing the father's body, the body shirt
shows the attachment to the family and cultural traditions.

Ba Ba's shirt, the popular costume of Nam Bo people, brings a simple, rustic and
intimate beauty. With a spacious and comfortable shape, ba ba shirt is suitable for the hot
and humid climate of the South.

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 Vietnam is a populous country, with 54 people living together. Each people has their own
cultural features, which are clearly shown through traditional costumes. From the dresses
and clothes of the H'Mong people to the unique scarves of the Thai people, the most
popular costumes are an indispensable part of the Vietnamese culture. They bring
diversity and richness to Vietnamese paintings, at the same time showing the intersection
and harmony between peoples.

Innovative ao dai designs, Modern women’s Ba Ba shirt

o Integrating Vietnamese fashion into the global stage.

The development of technology: Industry is changing the way we produce, trade and
consume fashion. New technology such as 3D printing, artificial intelligence, virtual
reality... are opening up new opportunities for the Vietnamese fashion industry, helping
brands to approach customers in a more effective way, personalize products and services,
and optimize production and business processes at the same time.

Increasing interest in culture and ethnic heritage: In the context of globalization,

consumers are increasingly interested in products that have cultural and traditional
values. This is a great opportunity for Vietnamese fashion, with unique, creative designs,
a harmonious combination of traditional and modern. Support from the government and
organizations: The Vietnamese government has been implementing many policies to
support the fashion industry, from training human resources to building fashion centers,
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supporting businesses to participate in international exhibitions...With the efforts of
designers, merchants, and support from the government and organizations, Vietnam's
fashion can completely rise to new heights, set its position in the international arena and
become one of the leading industrial sectors of the country.

One look and you know fashion comes from Vietnam. In the show at London Fashion
Week in late August, designer Ho Tran Da Thao introduced 25 designs in the collection
Heritage Through Space, using motifs from 16th- 19th century brocade, painted and
printed on lotus fiber, silk, chiffon, and linen. In terms of shape, she made ao dai, ao yem,
stylized ba ba, dresses, skirts, and 3 designs for men.

Picture: Show at London Fashion Week

The Vietnamese shape continues to be brought by designer Phan Dang Hoang in the
collection at Milan Fashion Week in 2023. He was inspired by the works of sculptor
Diem Phung Thi, who has made great contributions to Vietnamese fine arts. The
collection includes 30 designs, made from silk, linen, denim, leather..., applying manual
embroidery and embellishment techniques. In 2021, also in Milan, Phan Dang Hoang
made his mark with a collection exploiting the traditional bamboo weaving craft. After
that, he continued to bring images of folk games into the design, making a strong
impression.

4.2. Challenges faced

o Competition with international fashion.
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The preservation of traditional costumes is extremely important today, as they represent
the culture of a nation. Therefore, national cultural identity should carry the imprint of
traditional clothing. Traditional costumes have become even more significant in the
process of global integration. They help people maintain their cultural identity. However,
under current circumstances, preserving traditional costumes faces many difficulties and
challenges. It is essential for these costumes to “live” within the community. Preservation
is crucial, but we must also understand that it cannot be done mechanically or through
rigid constraints. Instead, it must be preserved while also adapting to fit real-life
circumstances

Looking at it positively, traditional culture always has distinctive characteristics that are
hard to confuse. Therefore, it is easy to create very unique impressions. However, the
global fashion industry operates under specific rules. Each season brings one or several
trends to the forefront. Meanwhile, traditional cultural values lie outside these rules.
Thus, incorporating them into modern fashion to adapt and survive within the common
flow is no simple task.

Collections created primarily for showcases allow for unlimited creativity, but when
officially put on sale, it becomes challenging to maintain cultural elements over the long
term. The most difficult aspect is how to innovate while preserving the roots, ensuring
freshness, and avoiding mistakes or controversies.

o Ensuring practicality while preserving traditional values

Achieving harmony between tradition and modernity requires designers to invest

significant time in research and study. As a result, in addition to utilizing traditional
culture, designers must also accept intense competition with modern collections.

Although it has achieved many remarkable achievements, Vietnam still has to face many
challenges on the road to the great sea. Fierce competition from international brands: The
global fashion market is becoming more and more competitive, with the arrival of a large
series of brands coming from countries with developed technology. In order to exist and
develop, Vietnamese businesses need to constantly improve product quality, build strong
brands and have effective marketing strategies.

Creative copyright protection: The problem of counterfeit and imitation goods is still a
difficult problem for the Vietnamese fashion industry. Creative copyright protection not
only helps Vietnamese designers and traders protect their legitimate interests, but also
contributes to building a healthy and sustainable business environment.

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Sustainable development: In the context of climate change and increasingly serious
environmental pollution, sustainable development is becoming a trend. Vietnamese
brands need to focus on the use of environmentally friendly products, reducing the
negative impact on the environment in the production and business process.

5. Conclusion and Recommendations

5.1. Summary of the study

In modern society, ao dai is not just a costume, but also a symbol of national pride and
resilience of Vietnamese women. The ao dai, having gone through more than nearly a
century of changes, these changes are compatible, sometimes in spirit, sometimes in
style, with changes in world fashion culture, but still retains the spirit. Ethnic Vietnamese
costumes: the yin and yang structure is neat, with static and dynamic, open and closed,
front and back, discreet and gentle, suitable for the small body of Vietnamese
women[10]. The integration of the ao dai also partly reflects the character a culture with a
spirit of broad tolerance, a preference for harmony, a bias towards the negative (respect
for women)... flexible, peaceful, with a dynamic and flexible behavior. Looking at the ao
dai as a testament to the development of Vietnamese clothing, there is no need to
stereotype and retain things of the past or tradition, but let tradition be absorbed in each
person's mind when look at the ao dai, wear the ao dai. Identity cannot be a "holding
back" identity is a "pushing up"[10].Only experimentation, only creativity can promote
development and promote the vitality of identity. Ao Dai in the twentieth century, in its
integration with modern fashion trends, deserves such recognition.

Thus, the trends in ao dai design that have been formed over the past decades show that
the thinking and aesthetics of women in society have changed a lot, especially young
contemporary designers. It also shows openness about the aesthetic tastes and
consumption needs of women in modern society... Therefore, it can be seen that the art of
designing ao dai has caught up with fashion trends. world. The evidence is that the
appearance of ao dai collections on the catwalks of America, France, Italy, England,
Japan, China... has clearly shown that. And today the combination of traditional and
modern styles has been chosen by many designers. Because this is in the context of
interference and integration between ethnic, regional and national cultures. The
combination of design styles is creatively applied by designers to create ao dai designs
that both honor traditional values and express new creative ideas with modern values.
The designs use the traditional shape of ao dai combined with new fabrics, decorative
patterns and modern color combinations... Or the designs use the traditional shape of ao
dai have The wide neckline structure creates a liberal and dynamic look for the wearer of

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the ao dai. In particular, designers have been flexible in the process of composing,
improving sewing methods, as well as decorating methods, creating new colors and
fabrics... to create ao dai models that suit the needs. human needs during the integration
of cultures.

Researching the intersection between traditional fashion and modern Vietnamese fashion
has shown that ao dai is not only a part of the past, but also an important part of the future
of Vietnamese culture. Ao dai is a symbol of the connection between past and present,
between tradition and modernity. Over the centuries, ao dai has witnessed the
development and transformation of Vietnamese society, from a royal garment to a symbol
of culture and fashion style. Ao Dai is not only a costume but also the pride of the nation,
expressing the beauty, sophistication and resilience of Vietnamese women. The
combination of tradition and modernity in ao dai helps this outfit always retain its appeal
and be able to adapt to all situations. Respecting traditional values comes from preserving
the beauty and spirit of the original ao dai, while also showing confidence in accepting
new ideas. The blend of tradition and modernity is not only an expression of cultural
development but also a source of encouragement for creative souls. Novel ideas of
traditional clothing have opened up space for diversity and personal style, challenging
stereotypes and making ao dai a constant source of inspiration for generations of fashion
lovers.

5.2. Recommendations

Traditional costumes of ethnic groups are cultural heritages, which have existed for many
generations, are a message of the past left for the generation today. Preservation and
conservation of traditional costumes is extremely [Link] only in Vietnam, but
many people around the world are also very concerned about preservation and
conservation of their costumes, because this is the national identity, the soul, the manner
of peoples representing through costumes. Besides, costumes also show the level of
cultivation of agricultural production, reflecting harmony among humans and the
environment, landscape, nature and society[11]. Preservation of traditional costume is
very important today, as they represent the culture of an ethnic group, therefore, national
cultural identity should bear the mark of costumes. Traditional costume has become more
important during integration with the world. Traditional costumes help people maintain
their cultural identity.

National costumes will accompany humans for a long time and become a indispensable
part of social life. If traditional cost umes have no longer exist or fall into oblivion, it will
a loss of value of culture, religion and spiritual values of national [Link] the context
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of industrialization, modernization, and international integration, along with cultural
convergence, costumes have undergone rapid [Link], the
preservation and promotion of traditional culture, including traditional costumes, face
many challenges. Given this situation, immediate and long-term solutions are needed to
preserve the traditional costumes.

o Party committees, government authorities, and local administrations need to

enhance awareness-raising efforts to help people recognize the value of using
traditional costumes
Encourage people to wear traditional costumes when participating in local
competitions and festivals. If in the past it only appeared on important occasions, now
ao dai is regularly worn by women such as going to weddings, parties, class reunions,
going to pagodas, traveling, [Link] many offices, ao dai has become a uniform. In
some localities, female officials, civil servants, and public employees wear ao dai
every day of the week. This is an activity to honor the beauty and value of ao dai in
social life, arousing pride and responsibility to preserve and promote Vietnamese
cultural heritage in each person. Using traditional costumes during important events,
festivals, and significant life milestones will contribute to strengthening and
enhancing the awareness of preserving the cultural values of the ethnic community.
Appropriate authorities should document and capture images of traditional costumes
worn by ethnic groups in specific circumstances, such as festive occasions, and
spiritual rituals, to provide reference materials for restoration efforts[11]. Organizing
exhibitions and displays, and introducing the traditional costumes of the community
will help them understand the significance of these costumes and encourage regular
use in daily life and work. Additionally, this will provide valuable information and
knowledge for researchers to study and learn about ethnic cultures. The traditional
house should have a dedicated space to exhibit the traditional costumes , ensuring the
preservation of their cultural value over time, even in the face of market- driven
changes.

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 Thousands of visitors and locals chose to wear ao dai in their visit to the heritages

Ha Noi Women’s Union to celebrate 70th Liberation Day with Ao Dai

The support and encouragement from the state and local authorities, along with
policies that promote production, will help foster a stronger sense of love, attachment,
and responsibility among the ethnic groups in preserving traditional costumes. Close
and regular coordination between the cultural department and cultural centers with
village-level activities is crucial. Cultural officers should be well-equipped with
comprehensive knowledge and deep understanding of related fields such as
architecture and language. They need to be passionate about their profession, possess

22
practical knowledge, and actively participate in on-site surveys to promptly propose
effective solutions for cultural movements and activities at the local level.

Cultural officers in villages and communes should share the positive values of the
ethnic group to enhance ethnic pride and encourage community members to actively
participate in preserving traditional costumes. To achieve this, the Party committees
and local authorities need to: Implement coordination, unity, and consistency among
relevant levels and sectors to ensure the preservation and promotion of the cultural
value of traditional costumes among people. Additionally, it is necessary to establish
appropriate incentives for individuals, organizations, and units involved in this work.

Therefore, the coordination between Party committees, the state, local authorities is
crucial in the preservation of traditional costumes and ethnic culture. Cultural officers
have been proactive in disseminating and promoting the image of traditional
costumes, as well as preserving and developing the cultural identity of the community.
They have also collaborated with training institutions and established embroidery,
weaving, and sewing clubs for the younger generation in the community. Through
these efforts, they help the people understand the value of traditional costumes and
maintain the practice of using them in daily life, important family events, and ethnic
festivals.

o Need to promote the role of the young generation in preserving traditional

costume.
Many experts believe that, if there is no inheritance between generations, the work of
preserving traditional costumes will have a "fracture" because young people move
away from the traditional costumes of the nation and the artistic generation. People are
getting older, the next class of people seems to no longer exist. This is an alarming
problem. If this situation continues, traditional ethnic costumes of ethnic minorities
will increasingly be eroded and lost. Therefore, it requires the cooperation and
contribution of everyone, especially young people, to preserve and preserve the beauty
of national costumes.
Encourage and create in students a passion for learning about the cultural identity of
their nation. Introducing traditional costumes into local history education curricula,
extracurricular sessions...[11]

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 Female students in flowing white ao dai

Encouraging students to wear traditional costumes when attending classes and during
school festivals is [Link] extracurricular activities and vocational training in
cutting and sewing traditional costumes. for the young generation. Strengthen the
organization of cultural, artistic, and sports activities through competitions, shows,
festivals... this is an opportunity for ethnic groups to dress up and show off to everyone
their ethnic costumes. , thereby promoting and attracting tourists to visit and exchange
traditional culture in localities.
In addition, encourages teachers to wear traditional costumes every time they go to the
podium. This will contribute to spreading pride in the unique beauty of each nation to
more students. Raise awareness and responsibility of each person in preserving,
preserving and promoting national cultural traditions.
o Application of technology 4.0 in conservation of traditional costume.
Along with the challenges and cultural encroachments of the digital technology age,
applying digital achievements 4.0 is considered an effective solution in preserving the
value and identity of Vietnamese traditional costumes. In fact, the development of
information technology is an opportunity and means to effectively preserve and
preserve cultural heritage, use it as restoration materials, and disseminate and promote
heritage values when needed. arrive. The speed of change is going much faster than the
story of organizing classes to teach weaving, dyeing, embroidery, expanding raw
material areas, restoring, proposing conservation models... Therefore, it is necessary to
quickly take inventory. , collect and catalog traditional costumes of ethnic groups,
digitize folk knowledge, images, sounds, techniques, weaving, embroidery techniques,
and stories related to costumes . Collect and digitize original costumes that have not

24
 been hybridized, altered in motifs, patterns, garment techniques... to avoid the situation
where it is very difficult to find the original costumes.
Along with the work of collecting and preserving ethnic costumes in museums,
digitization will contribute to helping people access the cultural identities of ethnic
groups quickly and conveniently, enhancing self-esteem. Pride and awareness of
preserving and promoting traditional costumes of ethnic groups.
It is important to focus on building websites to promote and introduce traditional
costumes, connecting them with the promotion of ethnic cultures. Sharing videos,
photos, and managing various social media channels such as Facebook, Zalo, TikTok
can help raise awareness about the ethnic culture.[11]

o Actively bringing traditional costume into the fashion design and international
promotion industry
Although Vietnam's fashion design industry is still quite young, in recent years young
designers have attached great importance to exploiting and using traditional cultural
elements of national identity in the creative design process. [Link] Minh
Hanh once asserted: "The treasured sword used to conquer foreign lands is nothing
other than national identity." Many designers have shaped their styles and names by
exploiting national cultural capital in their work. its design.

6. References
1. [Link] Minh Trang, Mai Cong Anh. (2023). Vietnamese Culture in the
Fashion Industry: The Case of TiredCity and BARO. Global Publication House
International, Vol.06 Issue.
2. Craik, J. (1994). The Face of Fashion: Cultural Studies in Fashion.
3. Trung Son. (2023) Vietnamese Fashion Goes Global Differences and Challenges
_ Sài Gòn Giải Phóng Newspaper
4. Phuong Mai/News (2024) Newspaper Young people 'love again' ancient
costumes - A connecting thread from the past
5. Dr. Van Quang Huynh, MSc. (2023). International Journal of Culture and
Education. Ao Dai as a Symbol of Vietnamese.
6. Duong Thi Kim Duc & Mingxin Bao. (July 2012). Asian Culture and History.
Aesthetic Sense of the Vietnamese through Three Renovations of the Women’s
Ao dai in the 20th Century. Vol. 04
7. Dang Cong San- Vietnam today (2017) Preservation of traditional costumes in
development trend (Bao, July 2012)
8. [Link] (2024) How are Vietnamese fashion and national identity related
9. Doan Thi Tinh (2006). Vietnamese Costumes. Fine Arts Publishing House
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10. Nguyen Vu Cam Ly (2023). Vietnamese Ao Dai under the influence of the 20th
century world fashion. Van Lang University Journal of Science.
11. Pham Hong Ngan.(2023). Some solutions to preserve the traditional costumes of
the Dao ethnic group in Trung Minh commune, Yen Son district, Tuyen Quang
province. International Journal of Multidisciplinary Research and Growth
Evaluation, 4(5), 205-209.

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