REVISION

ENGINE

1. WHAT ARE THE PROCEDURES AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS NEEDED TO

BE OBSERVED BEFORE STARTING AN ENGINE

 CHECK OIL LEVEL

 CHECK COOLANT LEVEL
 CHECK FOR OIL LEAKS UNDER THE CAR
 CHECK TYRES/TYRE PRESSURE
 CHECK ALL DOORS ARE SHUT
 ENSURE THE VEHICLE IS NEUTRAL
 ENSURE THE HAND BRAKE IS APPLIED
 CHECK TO SEE THAT YOU CAN SEE CLEARLY THROUGH THE FRONT
AND REAR WINDOW AND MIRRORS ARE ADJUSTED
 ENSURE THAT YOU CAN COMFORTABLY REACH AND OPERATE ALL
MAIN CONTROLS OF THE CAR
 FASTEN YOUR SEATBLET

2. IN A WORKSHOP ENVIRONMENT WHAT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS MUST

BE OBSERVED AT ALL TIMES

 DO NOT SMOKE
 NO RUNNING OR HORSE PLAY
 NEVER WORK ON A VEHICLE UNLESS THE PARKING BRAKE IS ON, THE
GEARSHIFT IN PARK FOR AUTOMATICS AND THE ENGINE SHUT OFF
 BE SURE THAT THE PARTS OF THE ENGINE YOU’RE WORKING ON ARE
NICE AND COOL SO THAT YOU DO NOT GET BURNED
 NEVER JACK A VEHICLE UP UNLESS THE WHEELS ARE PROPERLY
BLOCKED
 NEVER GET UNDER A JACKED VEHICLE UNLESS IT HAS STANDS
SUPPORTING IT IN APPROPRIATE PLACES
 USE INSULATED TOOLS FOR ELECTRICAL WORK
 TAKE OFF LOOSE CLOTHING AND TIE BACK LONG HAIR, ALSO REMOVE
ANY JEWELRY
 AVOID CONTACT WITH USED OIL AND CHEMICALS AND DISPOSE OF
PROPERLY
 USE APPROPRIATE SAFTEY CLOTHING AT ALL TIMES, EG SAFETY
GOGGLES, STEEL TOE CAP BOOTS, OVERALLS PROTECTIVE GLOVES
 WORK IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA TO AVOID BREATHING IN
CARBON MONOXIDE IF YOU HAVE TO RUN THE ENGINE, OR BREATHING
IN TOXIC FUMES FROM CHEMICALS AND GASOLINE
 KEEP WORK AREA CLEAN AND TIDY
 CLEAN UP FLUID SPILLS AS THEY HAPPEN
 KEEP A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY

3. DESCRIBE HOW YOU WOULD STRIP AN ENGINE. STATE TOOLS NEEDED

AND STEPS YOU WOULD FOLLOW

TOOLS

 3/8 AND ½ SOCKET SET WITH POWER BARS

 COMBINATION SPANNERS
 SCREW DRIVER SET
 BALL PEIN HAMMER AND RUBBER MALLET
 PRY BARS
 GANTRY AND TICK TOCK
 TRAYS FOR OIL AND TRAYS FOR BOLTS

PROCEDURE FOR OVERHEAD CAMSHAFT AND SIDE CAMSHAFT (PETROL

AND DIESEL)

 ASSUMING THE ENGINE HAS BEEN REMOVED FROM THE VEHICLE

AND ALL AUXILIARY COMPONETS AND DRIVE BELTS HAVE BEEN
REMOVED, CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL HAVE BEEN REMOVED,
COOLANT DRAINED, AND FILTERS REMOVED
 DRAIN OIL FROM ENGINE INTO SUITABLE CONTAINER AND DISPOSE
OF PROPERLY
 REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR IF FITTED
 REMOVE INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLDS BY LOOSENING BOLTS
STARTING OUTSIDE AND WORKINJG INWARDS IN A CIRCLE
 REMOVE THERMOSTAT HOUSING AND THERMOSTAT
 REMOVE WATER PUMP AND GASKET
 REMOVE TIMING COVER
 REMOVE TAPPET COVER AND GASKET
 FOR OHC (OVERHEAD CAMSHAFT) ENGINES THE TIMING BELT OR
CHAIN NEEDS TO BE REMOVED. FOR TIMING BELT - REMOVE THE
TIMING COVER AND LOOSEN BELT TENSIONER AND REMOVE BELT.
FOR TIMING CHAIN- REMOVE THE CAMSHAFT GEAR AND THE CHAIN
CAN THEN BE REMOVED
 FOR OHC (OVERHEAD CAMSHAFT) DIRECT ACTING, REMOVE THE
CAMSHAFT BY LOOSENING BOLTS STARTING FROM THE OUTSIDE
AND WORKING INWARDS IN A CIRCLE, REMOVE THE CAMSHAFT
AND BEARINGS/CAPS. LABEL AND KEEP EVERYTHING IN ORDER.
SOME CAMSHAFTS CAN ONLY BE REMOVED AFTER THE HEAD HAS
BEEN REMOVED
 LOOSEN ALL ROCKER ADJUSTING LOCKNUTS AND BACK OFF ALL
ROCKER ADJUSTING SCREWS
 LOOSEN ROCKER SHAFT BOLTS BY ¼ TURNS STARTING FROM THE
OUTSIDE AND WORKING INWARDS IN A CIRCLE
 REMOVE ROCKER SHAFT AND ROCKERS AS AN ASSEMBLY KEEP
EVERYTHING IN ORDER
 FOR OHC (OVERHEAD CAMSHAFT) INDIRECT ACTING CAMSHAFTS
LOOSEN ALL BOLTS STARTING FROM THE OUTSIDE AND WORKING
INWARDS IN A CIRCLE. REMOVE THE CAMSHAFT AND
BEARINGS/CAPS. LABEL AND KEEP EVERYTHING IN ORDER
 FOR OHV (OVERHEAD VALVE) SIDE CAMSHAFT ENGINES REMOVE
THE PUSH TUBES, KEEP THEM IN THE ORDER OF REMOVAL BY
INSERTING THEM INTO A PIECE OF CARBOARD WITH
CORRESPONDING NUMBERS
 REMOVE ANY VALVE CROSSHEADS IF ANY
 REMOVE INJECTORS OR SPARK PLUGS
 REMOVE THE CYLINDER HEAD BY LOOSENING THE BOLTS
STARTING FROM THE OUTSIDE AND WORKING INWARDS IN A
CIRCLE. USE A SUITABLE LIFTING DEVICE IF THE HEAD IS HEAVY,
EG A BLOCK AND GANTRY. REST THE HEAD ON WOODEN BLOCKS
TO PROTECT THE MACHINED SIDE. REMOVE THE HEAD GASKET
 REMOVE CAMSHAFT FOR SIDE CAMSHAFT ENGINE
 REMOVE THE SUMP AND SUMP GASKET
 REMOVE THE OIL PUMP AND SUCTION TUBE/STRAINER
 REMOVE THE PISTON COOLING NOZZLES
 SAND AWAY THE CARBON RING AROUND THE TOPS OF ALL THE
CYLINDER LINERS
 TURN THE ENGINE TO BDC FOR EACH CONROD ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
 REMOVE THE BIG END CAP AND PUSH THE PISTON AND CONROD
THROUGH THE TOP OF THE BLOCK. KEEP EVERYTHING IN ORDER OF
REMOVAL, REPEAT ON REMAINING ASSEMBLIES UNTIL ALL ARE
REMOVED
 REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
 REMOVE FRONT AND REAR MAIN SEAL
 REMOVE MAIN CAP BOLTS STARTING FROM THE OUTSIDE WORKING
INWARDS IN A CIRCLE
  REMOVE MAIN CAPS AND KEEP ALL CAPS AND BEARINGS IN ORDER
OF REMOVAL
 REMOVE CRANKSHAFT USING BLOCK AND GANTRY IF REQUIRED
 REMOVE WET LINERS USING A LINER PULLER

4. WHY DO WE INSPECT COMPONENTS. STATE EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE

LOOKING FOR

 SO THAT WE CAN DIAGNOSE CAUSES OF PROBLEMS, PREVENT

FUTURE PROBLEMS AND ORDER/FIT NEW PARTS

HEAD

 WORN VALVE GUIDES

 BROKEN VALVE SPRINGS
 TENSION OF VALVE SPRINGS
 WORN VALVES (BENT OR DAMAGED STEMS,FACE CRACKED OR
SHARP EDGES)
 CAMSHAFT BEARINGS (SCORING)
 CRACKS IN THE HEAD
 WARPED HEAD
 VALVE SEATS
 BENT PUSH TUBES

BLOCK

 WARPED BLOCK
 LINERS (SCORING, GALLING, TAPER, OVALITY, MAXIMUM WEAR)
 CAMSHAFT (WEAR ON LOBES)
 CRANKSHAFT WEAR (TAPER, OVALITY, MAXIMUM WEAR)
 MAINS, CON ROD BIG ENDS AND SMALL ENDS BEARINGS FOR SCORING

OIL PUMP

 CHECK CLEARANCES BETWEEN PARTS

IGNITION SYSTEM

 SPARK PLUGS FOR WEAR AND CARBON

 CONTACT POINTS FOR ARCING
 5. STATE HOW YOU WOULD MEASURE CYLINDER BORE WEAR. LIST
TOOLS USED SHOW BY CALCULATING

TOOLS

 MANUAL FOR SPECIFICATIONS

 DIAL BORE GAUGE WITH ATTACHEMENTS
 OUTSIDE MICROMETER

PROCEDURE

 SET OUTSIDE MICROMETER TO THE LOWER SPECIFICATION IN THE

MANUAL
 FIT THE OUTSIDE MICROMETER TO A VICE
 SET THE DIAL BORE GAUGE IN THE OUTSIDE MICROMETER BY
ROCKING THE DIAL BORE GAUGE BACK AND FORTH, THE NEEDLE
WILL ROCK CLOCK WISE AND ANTI CLOCKWISE, ZERO THE DIAL AT
THE POINT THE NEEDLE ROCKS BETWEEN THE CHANGE OVER
 MEASURE 6 POINTS OF EACH CYLINDER, TOP (JUST BELOW RING
RIDGE) MIDDLE AND BOTTOM, PARALLEL TO THE CRANKSHAFT
AND PERPINDICULAR TO THE CRANKSHAFT
 MAKE A CHART AND WRITE DOWN EACH MEASUREMENT
DIFFERENCE FROM THE ORIGINAL SPECIFICATION TAKEN FROM THE
MICROMETER

 MAXIMUM WEAR – THE HIGHEST READING TAKEN AT ANY POINT

 TAPER – THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN READINGS TAKEN FROM THE
BOTTOM AND TOP
 OVALITY – THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN READINGS TAKEN FROM THE
PARALLEL AND PERPINDICULAR POINTS

6. HOW WOULD YOU MEASURE CRANK JOURNAL TAPER AND OVALITY.

STATE WHAT IS OVALITY AND TAPER IN WORDS AND
MATHEMATICALLY

OVALITY - THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MEASUREMENTS TAKEN 90

DEGREES TO EACH OTHER
TAPER – THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MEASUREMENTS TAKEN FROM EACH
END OF THE JOURNAL
 TOOLS

 OUTSIDE MICROMETER

PROCEDURE

 TAKE THREE MEASUREMENTS , FRONT MIDDLE AND END OF JOURNAL

AND ANOTHER THREE 90 DEGREES TO IT

7. DESCRIBE HOW YOU WOULD MEASURE CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT. WHAT

IS CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT

CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT – THE MEASUREMENT OF HOW OFF CENTRE A

CRANKSHAFT IS (HOW BENT IT IS)

PROCEDURE

 USING THE ENGINE BLOCK FIT THE OUTER MOST MAIN JOURNAL
BEARINGS ONLY AND FIT THE CRANKSHAFT INTO THE BLOCK
 SET UP A DIAL INDICATOR AND MEASURE THE RUNOUT ON THE
CENTRE MAIN JOURNAL BY TURNING THE CRANKSHAFT

8. WHAT IS CYLINDER HEAD WARPAGE. SHOW HOW TO MEASURE IT

CYLINDER HEAD WARPAGE – CAUSED BY EXCESSIVE OVERHEATING, THE

HEAD BULGES AND TWISTS OUT OF SPECIFICATION FROM ITS ORIGINAL FLAT
STATE

PROCEDURE

 CHECK MANUAL FOR SPECIFICATIONS

 CLEAN THE HEAD UNDERSIDE UNTIL IT IS SHINING, REMOVE ALL
CARBON
 PLACE THE HEAD COMBUSTION SIDE UP
 PLACE A FLAT EDGE RULER (NEW) FROM ONE END OF THE HEAD TO
THE OTHER
 START OFF WITH THE SMALLEST FEELER GAUGE AND TRY TO INSERT
THE FEELER GAUGE THROUGH THE GAP BETWEEN THE STRAIGHT EDGE
AND HEAD SURFACE
 WORK THE FEELER GAUGE ALONG THE HEAD UNTIL IT SLIDES IN
 CHANGE THE BLADE THICKNESS TO FIND THE MAX ALLOWABLE THAT
WILL FIT THROUGH THE GAP
 CHECK CYLINDER BLOCK SIDE, INTAKE AND EXHAUST SIDES
9. WHAT IS CYLINDER HEAD LEAKAGE TEST. HOW DO WE MEASURE IT

A CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST IS A COMPRESSION TEST IN REVERSE.

INSTEAD OF MEASURING THE ENGINE’S ABILITY TO CREATE PRESSURE,
COMPRESSED AIR IS INTRODUCED INTO THE CYLINDER THROUGH THE
SPARK PLUG HOLE. ONE GAUGE ON THE TESTER MEASURES THE PRESSURE
OF THE AIR ENTERING THE CYLINDER AND THE OTHER MEASURES THE
AIR ESCAPING (OR LEAKING) FROM THE CYLINDER. THE LOSS
PERCENTAGE WILL INDICATE THE CONDITION OF THE CYLINDER AND
OVERALL CONDITION OF THE ENGINE

THE CYLINDER BEING TESTED MUST BE AT TDC SO THE VALVES ARE

CLOSED

ANYTHING ABOVE A 20 PERCENT LOSS READING MEANS THE ENGINE

NEEDS AN OVERHAUL. THE READINGS SHOULD BE CONSISTENT OVER ALL
CYLINDERS IF NOT THEN IT SHOWS A FAULT ON A PARICULAR CYLINDER

WHEN TESTING PUT THE VEHICLE IN GEAR AND PARK BRAKE ON TO

PREVENT THE ENGINE FROM TURNING
  Intake valve : Air whistling out of the intake, carburetor or throttle body indicates a
leak at the intake valve.
 Exhaust valve : Air heard hissing out of the tailpipe, turbocharger or exhaust
manifold means an exhaust valve leak.
 Piston rings : Whistling or hissing out of the PCV valve, oil filler cap hole or dipstick
tube means the air is pushing past the rings. Suspect ring or cylinder wall wear.
 Head gasket : Air bubbles in engine coolant seen at the radiator filler cap could mean
air escaping into the coolant past the head gasket.
 Cracked cylinder head : Bubbles in coolant or coolant being pushed up out of the
radiator neck can also indicate cracks in the cylinder head or cylinder walls.

10. EXPLAIN HOW YOU WOULD TORQUE MAINS IN AN ENGINE BLOCK

 START FROM THE CENTRE MAIN JOURNAL AND WORK OUTWARD IN

A CIRCLE.
 STEP TORQUE AND STEP TORQUE PLUS ANGLE
 CHECK MANUAL FOR SPECIFICATIONS, USUALLY USE HALF THE
TORQUE IN SEQUENCE THEN USE THE FULL TORQUE IN SEQUENCE

11. HOW WOULD YOU MEASURE CRANKSHAFT END FLOAT. WHAT IS

CRANKSHAFT END FLOAT

CRANKSHAFT ENDFLOAT – THE AMOUNT OF AXIAL MOVEMENT OF A

CRANKSHAFT (FORE AND AFT MOVEMENT) THAT THE THRUST WASHERS
ALLOW

PROCEDURE

 CRANKSHAFT IS TORQUED DOWN IN THE BLOCK WITH BEARINGS AND

THRUST WASHERS IN PLACE
 SET UP A DTI TO TAKE A READING FROM THE FRONT OF THE
CRANKSHAFT WHERE THE PULLEY GOES (AXIAL MOVEMENT)
 USING A PRY BAR PUSH THE CRANKSHAFT AS FAR BACK AS IT WILL GO
 ZERO THE DTI
 USING THE PRY BAR PUSH THE CRANKSHAFT AS FAR FORWARD IS IT
CAN AND TAKE THE READING FROM THE DTI

12. HOW WOULD YOU MEASURE RING GAP

MEASURED BY PUTTING THE PISTON RING, REMOVED FROM THE PISTON

INTO THE CYLINDER AND ‘SQUARING’ IT UP BY PUSHING IT UP AGAINST
THE END OF THE PISTON. THE GAP BETWEEN THE ENDS OF THE RING IS
THEN MEASURED USING FEELER GAUGES. THE RING SHOULD BE IN THE
LEAST WORN PART OF THE BORE WHEN MEASUREMENT IS MADE
 WATER COOLED ENGINES 0.003 × BORE DIAMETER
AIR COOLED ENGINES 0.004 × BORE DIAMETER

13. EXPLAIN HOW YOU WOULD STAGGER PISTON RINGS AND WHY. ALSO
STATE THE PURPOSE OF EACH RING

PISTON RINGS ARE STAGGERED TO REDUCE THE CHANCE OF COMPRESSION

LOSS

RING GAPS MUST BE 30 DEGRESS FROM THE GUDGEON PIN CENTRE LINE AND
EACH RING GAP MUST BE 180 DEGRESS FROM THE OTHER

COMPRESSION RINGS

 PLAIN – NORMAL COMPRESSION RING

 TAPERED – TO HELP BEDDING IN PROCESS
 L SHAPED – TO HELP THE BEDDING IN PROCESS
 RIDGE DODGER – AVOIDS CONTACT WITH THE RIDGE THAT DEVELOPS
AT THE UPPER LIMIT OF RING TRAVEL

OIL CONTROL RINGS

 BEVELED – LEAST SEVERE IN OIL CONTROL

 STEPPED – OIL CONTROL RING
 GROOVED – MOST SEVERE IN OIL CONTROL
 STEEL – OIL CONTROL RING

14. EXPLAIN HOW YOU WOULD TORQUE CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS. USE ALL
KNOWN METHODS

 TORQUE THE BOLTS STARTING FROM THE MIDDLE WORKING

OUTWARDS IN A CIRCLE. USUAL TORQUE METHOD IS HALF TORQUE IN
SEQUENCE, THEN FULL TORQUE IN SEQUENCE , THEN A DEGREE IN
SEQUENCE
 TORQUE BOLTS STARTING FROM THE MIDDLE WORKING OUTWARDS IN
DIAGONAL OPPOSITES. USUAL TORQUE METHOD IS HALF TORQUE IN
SEQUENCE, THEN FULL TORQUE IN SEQUENCE , THEN A DEGREE IN
SEQUENCE
 15. HOW DO YOU ADJUST VALVES

BY USING THE ROCKING METHOD – RULE OF FIVE FOR FOUR CYLINDER AND
RULE OF SEVEN FOR SIX CYLINDER

BY USING THE RULE OF NINE FOR A FOUR CYLINDERN ENGINE AND RULE OF
THIRTEEN FOR SIX CYLINDER ENGINE

RULE OF 9 ONLY WORKS ON A FOUR CYLINDER ENGINE WITH A FIRING

ORDER OF 1342 AND RULE OF THIRTEEN ONLY WORKS ON A SIX CYLINDER
ENGINE THAT HAS A FIRING ORDER OF 153624

16. HOW DO YOU SET VALVE TIMING IN BELT, GEAR AND CHAIN DRIVEN
ENGINES

BELT

ALIGN MARKS ON THE CRANK PULLEY TO MARKS ON THE CRANKCASE AND

LINE UP MARKS ON THE CAM PULLEY TO MARKS ON THE CRANKCASE

SNAKE THE BELT AROUND THE PULLEYS (MAKE SURE THE BELT IS ROUTED
ON THE CORRECT SIDE OF ANY IDLER OR WATER PUMP PULLEYS) THEN
ADJUST TENSION IF A MANUAL TENSION ADJUSTMENT IS REQUIRED.

TURN THE ENGINE OVER TO CHECK THAT THE TIMING MARKS MATCH UP
AGAIN

CHAIN

ALIGN MARKS ON THE CRANK PULLEY TO MARKS ON THE CRANKCASE AND

LINE UP MARKS ON THE CAM PULLEY TO MARKS ON THE CRANKCASE

FOR PUSHROD ENGINES NEW CRANK GEAR GOES ON FIRST, FOLLOWED BY

THE CAM GEAR WITH THE CHAIN ON IT
FOR OHC THERE IS NO SET PROCEDURE AS THE CHAIN TENSION IS
CONTROLLED BY A TENSIONER OR GUIDE

TIMING GEARS AND CHAINS MUST BE CHANGED AS A SET

TURN THE ENGINE OVER TO CHECK THAT THE TIMING MARKS MATCH UP
AGAIN
GEAR DRIVEN

MAKE SURE ALL TIMING MARKS ON THE GEARS MATCH UP AND TURN THE
ENGINE OVER TO CHECK THAT THE TIMING MARKS MATCH UP AGAIN

17. SHOW HOW YOU WOULD SET INJECTION TIMING AN A DPA AND INLINE
PUMP

DPA PUMP

1. Turn the pump drive shaft so that the master spline is in alignment with
the master spline on the engine.
2. Insert the drive shaft into the engine coupling as the pump is pushed
onto the mounting studs
3. Push the pump snugly against the mounting face and secure lightly with
the three holding nuts.
4. Rotate the injection pump on the mounting studs until the timing mark
scribed on the pump mounting flange is aligned with the timing mark on the
engine

INLINE PUMP

18. NAME FOUR OIL PUMPS

 GEAR TYPE
 INTERNAL EXTERNAL GEAR TYPE
 ECCENTRIC VANE TYPE
 ECCENTRIC ROTOR TYPE

19. WHAT FAULTS ARE RELATED TO OIL PUMPS

 LOW OIL PRESSURE – A BAD PUMP WILL OSE THE ABILITY TO

PROPERLY PUMP OIL THROUGH THE SYSTEM
 INCREASED ENGINE TEMP – OIL REDUCES THE FRICTION ON THE PARTS
IN YOUR VEHICLE, WHICH IN TURN KEEPS TEMNPERATURES
REGULATED WHILE THE VEHICLE IS IN OPERATION
 NOISE – HYDRAULIC TAPPETS, VALVE TRAIN NOISE DUE TO LOSS OF
LUBRICATION

20. WHAT MEASUREMENTS WOULD YOU CARRY OUT ON A OIL PUMP

GEAR TYPE
USE A FEELER GAUGE TO CHECK THE GAP BETWEEN EACH GEAR TOOTH AND
THE PUMP BODY, AND USE A STRAIGHT EDGE AND CHECK BETWEEN THE
STRAIGHT EDGE AND EACH GEAR

ECCENTRIC VANE TYPE

USE A FEELER GAUGE AND CHECK THE GAP BETWEEN THE ROTOR ASSEMBLY
AND PUMP BODY, CHECK FOR TOO MUCH CLEARANCE ROUND EACH VANE IN
ITS GROOVE, AND USE A STRAIGHT EDGE AND CHECK BETWEEN THE
SURFACE OF THE VANES AND ROTOR

ECCENTRIC LOBE TYPE

USE A FEELER GAUGE TO CHECK THE GAP BETWEEN THE INNER AND OUTER
LOBE WHEN THEY ARE OPPOSITE EACH OTHER, ALSO THE OUTER ROTOR AND
PUMP BODY, AND USE A STRAIGHT EDGE AND CHECK BETWEEN THE
STRAIGHT EDGE AND ROTOR SURFACE

GEARBOX

1. NAME TEN COMPONENTS IN A MANUAL GEARBOX AND STATE

MATERIAL COMPOSITION AND FUNCTION OF EACH

 INPUT SHAFT – TRANSMITS DRIVE FROM THE ENGINE VIA THE CLUTCH
TO THE GEARBOX
 LAYSHAFT - TO TRANSMIT DRIVE FROM THE INPUT SHAFT TO THE
MAIN SHAFT WHEN A GEAR IS ENGAGED
 MAINSHAFT – TO TRANSMIT DRIVE WITH VARIOUS GEAR RATIOS FROM
THE LAYSHAFT VIA THE ENGAGED GEAR TO THE PROPSHAFT/DRIVE
SHAFTS
 DOG CLUTCH
 BUSH’S
 BEARINGS
 THRUST WASHERS
 SELECTOR RODS AND FORKS – STEEL AND ALUMINIUM
 INTERLOCK MECHANISM
 SELECTOR DETENT
 GEARBOX HOUSING
 SYNCHRONIZER RING – PHOSPHER BRONZE
 HUB
 SLEEVE
 SHIFTING PLATE
2. IMAGINE YOU HAVE TO DISMANTLE A GEARBOX, EXPLAIN HOW YOU
WOULD GO ABOUT IT

 DRAIN THE OIL INTO A SUITABLE CONTAINER

 STAND THE GEARBOX ON ITS BELL HOUSING
 REMOVE THE TOP COVER AT THE EXTENSION HOUSING WHICH
CONTAINS THE REMOTE SHIFTING MECHANISM AND REMOVE IT
 REMOVE THE SPEEDOMETER DRIVE
 REMOVE THE EXTENSION HOUSING (TAIL PIECE)
 REMOVE THE THREE SHIFTING BLOCKS ON THE SELECTOR RODS
 REMOVE THE GEARBOX CASING BY WITHDRAWING FROM THE TOP
 LAY THE GEARBOX ON ITS SIDE AND REMOVE THE NOSE PIECE
COVERING THE INPUT SHAFT
 REMOVE THE OUTER AND INNER RETAINING CLIPS HOLDING THE
LAYSHAFT AND MAINSHFT BEARINGS IN THE BELL HOUSING
 STAND THE GEARBOX ON ITS BELL HOUSING AGAIN AND PLACE A
BLOCK OF WOOD ON THE GROUND SO THE INPUT SHAFT CAN REST ON
IT, THE BELL HOUSING IS OFF THE GROUND BY A FEW INCHS
 HOLD THE GEARBOX UPRIGHT BY THE OUTPUT SHAFT AND BEAT
AROUNG THE OUTSIDE OF THE BELL HOUSING/GEAR HOUSING WITH A
RUBBER MALLET. THE LAYSHAFT AND MAINSHAFT WILL PULL OUT AS
AN ASSEMBLY WITH THE CENTRE CARRIER
 TAKE THE SNAP RING OF THE SPEEDO GEAR AND REMOVE THE SPEEDO
GEAR
 REMOVE THRUST WASHER AND RETAINING WASHER AND CLIPS FROM
OUTPUT SHAFT AND REMOVE BEARING USING BEARING SEPERATOR OR
A BLUNT CHISEL AND HAMMER
 REMOVE THE NUT ON THE LAYSHAFT AND REMOVE THE BEARING
USING A BEARING SEPERATOR OR A BLUNT CHISEL AND HAMMER
 REMOVE THE RETAINERS AND CLIPS FROM OUTPUT SHAFT, SLIDE
FIFTH GEAR OFF OF LAYSHAFT AND OUTPUT SHAFT ALONG WITH
SYNCHRO RINGS, HUBS SLEEVES ETC
 DISMANTLE AS IT COMES, KEEP EVERYTHING IN ORDER
3. STATE ALL FAULTS THAT CAN BE EXPERIENCED FROM A GEARBOX.
ALSO STATE REMEDY FOR EACH FAULT

1. Noisy Operation of the gear box :

There may be two different cases i.e, the noisy running when the vehicle is stationary or
when it is running in various gears.

(A). Stationary running :This noise may be due to any or moreof the following reasons:

• The bearings may be worn out in which case they will have to replace.
• Countershaft may be worn, bent or having large end play. This has to be replaced with
a new countershaft.
• Constant mesh gears may be worn out. The only alternative is their replacements.
• Shortage or incorrect grade of lubricants .This gear box should be filled with specified
lubricants.

(B) . When Vehicle is moving : The possible causes of troubles in this situations are
listed below:

• Gears may be worn out: they have to be replaced.

• Gears may be loose on the main shaft .This may be due to worn out splines or the
gears on the main shaft. The worn out part should be replaced to remedythe defects.
• The bearings may be worn out in which case they should be replaced.
• The lubricant may not be sufficient or of wrong [Link] this is the reason of
noisy running .the gearbox should be lubricated immediately with
proper grade of lubricant, other wise running without lubrication will causewear of many
parts of gear box.
• Mountings bolts may be loose which may be tightened.

2. Hard Gear Shifting: The following may be the possible causes :

• Clutch adjustment may not be correct, which should be corrected.

• Clutch linkage may be [Link] same may be required or lubricated as required.
• There may be misalignment of the clutch [Link] runout at rear of clutch housing
may be checked and corrected if necessary.
• The gear shift mechanism may not adjusted or lubricated properly,which must be done
immediately.
• Synchromesh unit may be jammed or damaged .The damaged parts should be replaced
.if no damage is there , then lubricate the unit immediately.
• Gear lever ball joint may be binding ,which should be lubricated.
3. Gear clash while shifting: If the gear clash while shifting from one gear to another
,the probable causes are :

• Adjustment of clutch may be incorrect, which may be checked and corrected if

necessary.
• Clutch linkage may be binding, which may be repaired or lubricated as required.
• Misalignment of the clutch housing may be another reason , which may be checked at
rear face and corrected if required.

4. Gear locked in one gear : If the gear is locked in one position and cannot be
shifted out of that gear, the causes probably are :

• Selector fork may be bent or selector rod may be worn or broken , centre detent plug
may be loose or even missing . To correct, inspection the various components of the gear
shift mechanism and replace the defective.
• Teeth on any gear may be broken .After inspection the defective gear has to be
replaced.
• Any other parts of the gear train may be worn or broken, To remedy, gear box has to
be disassembled and defective parts replaced.

5. Gear Slipping: It may be experienced sometimes that the gear once engaged
jumps out of engagements. The possible causes of this troubles are :

• The selector mechanism may be worn out or the springs may be [Link]
replacement is the only remedy in this case.
• Gear on the main shaft may be very loose in which case it has to be replaced.
• The gear teeth or the dog clutch members may be worn out, which should be replaced.
• The worn out bearings may also be source of this troubles by causing excessive end
play of gear box shafts. The defective bearing must be replaced.

6. Leakage of the gear box oil : The possible reasons for this may be :

• Damaged oil seals, which should be replaced.

• Damaged or even missing gaskets. The only alternative is the replacements.
• The bolts on the gear box cover may be loose , which should be tightened properly.
• The oil used may be thinner than the one specified . In this case the entire oil has to be
drained and replaced with a fresh oil of suitable specifications.
 7. SHOW HOW YOU CALCULATE GEAR RATIO

EXAMPLE: TWO SETS OF GEARS ARE USED TO PROVIDE DRIVE IN A VEHICLE

GEARBOX

 DRIVEN DIVIDED BY DRIVER × DRIVEN DIVIDED BY DRIVER

 40/20 × 40/20
 2×2
 4:1

FOR REVERSE GEAR IT IS:

 DRIVEN DIVIDED BY DRIVER × DRIVEN DIVIDED BY DRIVER × DRIVEN

DIVIDED BY DRIVER

FINAL DRIVE GEAR RATIO

 THE FINAL DRIVE GEAR RATIO IS CALCULATED BY MULTIPLYING THE

TRANSMISSION GEAR RATIO BY THE FINAL DRIVE RATIO

8. HOW IS REVERSE GEAR ACHIEVED

TO PROVIDE A REVERSE GEAR, THE GEARBOX OUTPUT SHAFT HAS TO

ROTATE IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION TO THE GEARBOX INPUT SHAFT.
REVERSE GEAR IS NORMALLY ACHIEVED BY SLIDING A REVERSE GEAR
BETWEEN ONE OF THE GEARS ON THE LAYSHAFT AND ONE OF THE GEARS ON
THE MAINSHAFT. THE REVERSE GEAR CHANGES THE DIRECTION OF
ROTATION BETWEEN LAYSHAFT GEAR CLUSTER AND THE MAINSHAFT.

9. STATE THE COMPONENTS THAT FORM A PLANETARY GEAR SYSTEM

 ANULUS
 SUN GEAR
 PLANET GEARS
 PLANET CARRIER
 10. STATE FOUR DIFFERENT TYPES OF GEARBOXES AND EXPLAIN
METHODS OF GEAR SELECTION IN EACH

SLIDING MESH

THE GEARS ARE OF THE SPUR TYPE. GEAR SELECTION IS MADE BY THE
MOVEMENT INITIATED BY THE DRIVER VIA THE SELECTOR ROD AND FORK.
SPLINED GEARS ON THE MAIN SHAFT SLIDE IN AND OUT OF MESH WITH THE
LAYSHAFT GEARS

CONSTANT MESH

THE GEARS ARE OF THE HELICAL TYPE, THE GEARS ON THE MAINSHAFT ARE
IN CONSTANT MESH WITH THE GEARS ON THE LAYSHAFT, THE GEARS ON THE
MAINSHAFT RUN ON BUSHS OF COPPER, BRONZE, OR ALUMINIUM. GEAR
SELECTION IS MADE BY THE MOVEMENT INITIATED BY THE DRIVER VIA THE
SELECTOR ROD AND FORK. ENGAGEMENT OF GEAR IS DONE BY MOVING THE
DOG CLUTCH WHICH IS SPLINED TO THE SHAFT TOWARDS THE SELECTED
GEAR, THIS CONNECTS THE DOG TEETH OF THE GEAR AND THE DOG TEETH
OF THE DOG CLUTCH, MAKING THE MAIN SHAFT AND DOG CLUTCH TO
ROTATE AT THE SAME SPEED AS THE CONNECTED GEAR

SYNCROMESH (CONSTANT LOAD)

THE GEARS ARE OF THE HELICAL TYPE, THE GEARS ON THE MAINSHAFT ARE
IN CONSTANT MESH WITH THE GEARS ON THE LAYSHAFT, THE GEARS ON THE
MAINSHAFT RUN ON NEEDLE BEARINGS. THE DOG CLUTCH (SLEEVE AND
HUB) ARE SPLINED TO THE MAIN SHAFT. GEAR SELECTION IS MADE BY THE
MOVEMENT INITIATED BY THE DRIVER VIA THE SELECTOR ROD AND FORK.
GEAR ENGAGEMENT IS DONE WHEN THE DOG CLUTCH (SLEEVE AND HUB) IS
MOVED TOWARDS THE GEAR WHEEL. THE MALE AND FEMALE FRICTION
CONES ARE THEREFORE BROUGHT INTO CONTACT. AT THIS POINT, THE
FRICTION BETWEEN THE TWO CONES WILL CAUSE THE SPEED OF THE GEAR
WHEEL TO BECOME CLOSER TO, OR EVEN MATCH THE SPEED OF THE HUB
AND MAINSHAFT. ADDITIONAL PRESSURE ON THE GEAR LEVER THEN
ALLOWS THE SLEEVE TO OVERRIDE THE RESISTANCE CREATED BY THE
SPRING LOADED BALLS, WHICH ALLOWS THE SPLINE ON THE SLEEVE TO
ENGAGE ON THE GEAR WHEEL DOG TEETH.

BAULK RING SYNCHROMESH

THE GEARS ARE OF THE HELICAL TYPE, THE GEARS ON THE MAINSHAFT ARE
IN CONSTANT MESH WITH THE GEARS ON THE LAYSHAFT, THE GEARS ON THE
MAINSHAFT RUN ON NEEDLE BEARINGS. THE SYNCHRONIZER UNIT (SLEEVE
AND HUB) ARE SPLINED TO THE MAINSHAFT. . GEAR SELECTION IS MADE BY
THE MOVEMENT INITIATED BY THE DRIVER VIA THE SELECTOR ROD AND
FORK. GEAR ENGAGEMENT IS DONE WHEN THE SYNCHRONIZER UNIT AND
BAULK RING MOVE TOWARD THE GEAR WHEEL AND THE CONES OF THE
BAULK RING AND GEAR WHEEL BEGIN TO FRICTIONIZE, THE SPLINE ON THE
SLEEVE SHOULD SLIDE OVER THE TEETH OF THE BAULK RING BEFORE THE
SPLINE CAN ENGAGE ON THE GEAR WHEEL DOG TEETH. THE BAULK RING
MUST THEREFORE BE TURNING AT A SIMILAR SPEED TO THE GEAR WHEEL
AND THE TEETH SHOULD BE ALMOST IN ALIGNMENT BEFORE THE SLEEVE
CAN ENAGE THE GEAR WHEEL AND TRANSFER DRIVE TO THE MAINSHAFT.

11. WHICH TYPES OF GEARS ARE MAINLY FOUND IN GEAR BOXES. STATE
THE OTHER TYPES OF GEARS ASWELL

 SPUR GEAR
 HELICAL GEAR
 DOUBLE HELICAL
 BEVEL
 WORM AND WHEEL
 EPICYCLIC

TORQUE CONVERTOR

12. NAME TEN COMPONENTS OF A TORQUE CONVERTOR

 TORQUE CONVERTOR HOUSING – THE TORQUE CONVERTOR HOUSING

IS BOLTED TO THE FLYWHELL AND SPINS AT THE SAME SPEED AS THE
ENGINE

 IMPELLER – THE IMPELLER IS WELDED TO THE TORQUE CONVERTOR

HOUSING WHICH IS BOLTED DIRECTLY TO THE FLY WHEEL, IT SPINS AT
THE SAME SPEED AS THE ENGINE. IT ACTS AS THE PUMP THAT SPEEDS
UP THE PARTICLE OF FLUID AND IMPARTS ENERGY THAT DRIVES THE
TURBINE.

 TURBINE – THE TURBINE IS CONNECTED TO THE INPUT DRIVE SHAFT OF

THE GEARBOX THROUGH SPLINES IT SLOWS DOWN THE PARTICLE OF
FLUID AND EXTRACTS ENERGY WHICH TRANSMITS DRIVE TO THE
GEARBOX

 STATOR – FITTED BETWEEN THE IMPELLER AND TURBINE, IT

PRODUCES TORQUE MULITPLICATION BY REDIRECTING FLUID
 RETURNING TO THE PUMP TO A SUITABLE SPEED AND DIRECTION. THE
STATOR ALSO PREVENTS A BRAKING ACTION ON THE PUMP CAUSED
BY THE TURBINE. THE STATOR ONLY WORKS FROM WHEN THE
VEHICLE PULLS OFF, ONCE THE VEHICLE PULLS OFF THE STATOR STOPS
REDIRECTING FLUID AS THE ACTION OF THE SPRAG CLUTCH TAKES
OVER AND THE STATOR STARTS TO SPIN. THE TORQUE CONVERTOR
WILL NOW ACT AS A FLUID COUPLING UNTIL THE LOCK UP CLUTCH
ENGAGES.

 SPRAG CLUTCH (ONE WAY CLUTCH) – THE SPRAG CLUTCH ALLOWS

THE STATOR TO ENGAGE AND DISENGAGE

 LOCK UP CLUTCH – THE LOCK UP CLUTCH IS MOUNTED BEHIND THE

TURBINE. DURING CRUISING CONDITIONS, THE LOCK UP CLUTCH IS
ENGAGED WHICH CONNECTS THE IMPELLER TO THE TURBINE; THE
IMPELLER IS THEREFORE LOCKED TO THE TURBINE, WHICH PREVENTS
THE TORQUE CONVERTOR FROM SLIPPING. THE TORQUE CONVERTOR
THEREFORE SPINS AS ONE UNIT, A DIRECT DRIVE IF YOU WILL.

 TURBINE OUTPUT SHAFT –DRIVE IS TRANSMITTED TO THE GEAR BOX

FROM THE TURBINE WHICH IS SPLINED TO THE TURBINE OUTPUT
SHAFT.

13. STATE FAULTS NORMALLY RELATED TO TORQUE CONVERTOR

Overheating - if you glance at your temperature gauge and it happens to be overheating, this
could mean that your torque converter is malfunctioning. Overheating is probably the most
common sign of torque converter problems, as a drop in fluid pressure will cause the
transmission to overheat. It could also be a sign of low fluid levels or a malfunctioning
solenoid, so check that first

Transmission slipping – a problem with the torque converter will often show itself fairly
quickly, as fluid cannot be managed correctly. If not enough or too much fluid is passed to
the transmission, it can cause gears to slip and you will often feel a loss of acceleration. You
might also notice a sudden drop in your car’s fuel economy. Low or ineffective fluid can also
be the culprit, so you need to check the fluid first if you experience any slipping

Shuddering – if you start to feel shudders when driving about 30 to 45 MPH, this could mean
that you have torque converter problems on your hand. It will often feel like running over
rough road or bumps and you will definitely notice it when it happens. Shuddering comes and
goes without warning, so once you feel it the first time you should get your transmission
checked out as soon as possible. Don’t wait for it to happen again.

Contaminants in fluid - if you check the fluid and there are large amounts of black material, it
either means your transmission or the torque converter clutches are damaged. You should
perform a fluid change first, run your car for a while, and check back again.
Increased stall speed - a bad torque converter will take the transmission longer to engage the
engine, resulting in higher than normal stall speeds. You can do a stall speed test to diagnose
for any torque converter problems, but you’ll need to know your torque converter and
engine’s stall speed specifications first.

Strange sounds - any foreign sounds such as clicking or a revving noise could indicate a bad
torque converter.

DIFF / FINAL DRIVE

1. STATE TEN COMPONENTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

 PINION – TRANSMITS DRIVE FROM THE PROP SHAFT TO THE CROWN

WHEEL
 CROWN WHEEL – TRANSMITS DRIVE FROM THE PINION TO THE
DIFFERENTIAL DIFFERENTIAL CAGE – TRANSMITS DRIVE FROM THE
CROWN WHEEL TO THE CROSS PINS
 CROSS PINS – TRANSMITS DRIVE FROM THE CAGE TO THE PLANET
GEARS
 PLANET GEARS – TRANSMITS DRIVE FROM THE CROSSPINS TO THE SUN
GEARS, THEY ALSO ALLOW FOR THE DIFFERENTIAL ACTION TO TAKE
PLACE.
 SUN GEARS – TRANSMITS DRIVE FROM THE PLANTS TO THE HALF
SHAFTS
 HALF SHAFTS – TRANSMITS DRIVE FROM THE SUN GEARS TO THE
HUB/ROAD WHEELS
 PLAIN BEARINGS – ALLOWS THE PLANET GEARS TO TURN FREELY
 ROLLER BEARINGS – ALLOWS FOR THE CROWN WHEEL AND PINION TO
BE CENTRALIZED AND TO BE PRELOADED

2. STATE FAULTS AND REMEDIES TO FINAL DRIVE

 Whirring noise only while decelerating at any or all speeds is most likely caused by
bad pinion bearings or loose pinion bearing preload, and almost never by bad ring and
pinion gears.
 A howl or whine during acceleration over a small or large speed range is usually
caused by worn ring and pinion gears or improper gear set up.
 Rumbling or whirring at speeds over about 20 mph can be caused by worn carrier
bearings. The noise may change while turning.
 Regular clunking every few feet may indicate broken ring or pinion gears.
 Banging or clunking only on corners can be caused by broken spider gears, lack of
sufficient positraction lubrication, or worn positraction clutches.
 3. EXPLAIN THE EFFECT OF A DIFF WHEN NEGOTIATING A BEND

 WHEN THE VEHICLE TURNS A CORNER, THE INNER WHEELS SLOWS

DOWN AND CAUSES THE PLANETS TO ROTATE ON THEIR OWN AXIS TO
SPEED UP THE OUTER WHEEL

4. WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF A FINAL DRIVE

 TO TRANSMIT DRIVE THROUGH 90 DEGREES

 TO PROVIDE THE OVERALL GEAR REDUCTION OF USUALY 4:1

5. WHAT IS DIFF LOCK, WHERE IS IT FOUND

 DIFF LOCK ESSENTIALLY LOCKS BOTH WHEELS ON A AXLE TOGETHER

AS IF ON A COMMON SHAFT. THIS FORCES BOTH WHEELS TO TURN IN
UNISON REGARDLESS OF TRACTION

 DIFF LOCK IS ACHIEVED BY LOCKING TOGETHER ANY TWO UNITS OF A

DIFFERENTIAL. FOR EXAMPLE: SPLINED TO A DIFFERENTIAL SUN
WHEEL IS A SLIDING DOG CLUTCH WHICH ENGAGES WITH DOG TEETH
FORMED ON THE CAGE DIFFERENTIAL. THE CLUTCH IS ENGAGED BY
MEANS OF A FORKN WHICH IS MOVED BY A LEVER

USUALY FOUND ON 4X4 VEHICLES

6. WHAT IS THE EFFECT IF ANY OF HAVING DIFFERENT SIZE WHEELS ON

THE SAME AXLE WITH A DIFF

 THE TWO WHEELS WILL SPIN AT DIFFERENT SPEEDS CAUSING THE

DIFFERENTIAL TO WORK AT ALL TIMES WHICH WILL CAUSE EXCESSIVE
HEAT AND WEAR AND COULD CAUSE THE DIFFERENTIAL TO FAIL

7. WHERE DO YOU USE A COLLAPSIBLE SPACER

A COLLAPSIBLE SPACER IS USED TO ADJUST PINION BEARING PRELOAD

8. WHAT IS A DEAD AXLE AND WHAT IS A LIVE AXLE

 A DEAD AXLE ONLY HAS TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE VEHICLE, IT

HAS NO DRIVEN WHEELS OR DIFFERENTIAL

 A LIVE AXLE HAS TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE VEHICLE AND

CONTAIN A GEAR AND SHAFT MECHANISM TO DRIVE THE WHEELS
CLUTCH

9. HOW WOULD YOU IDENTIFY A WET CLUTCH

10. HOW WOULD YOU IDENTIFY A DRY CLUTCH
11. STATE TWO TYPES OF PRESSURE PLATES AND ADJUSTMENTS YOU
WOULD CARRY OUT ON INSTALLATION

 DIAPHRAGM
 MULTICOIL SPRING

CLUTCH ADJUSMENTS FOR DIAPHRAGM

CLUTCH ADJUSTMENTS FOR MULTICOIL SPRING

BRAKES

1. STATE 10 FAULTS RELATED TO BRAKES AND THEIR REMEDY

LOW BRAKE FLUID This may be the result of worn disc brake pads, or it may
indicate a leak in the brake system. If the BRAKE WARNING LIGHT is also on, most
likely the problem is a leak (though the Brake Warning light may also come on if the
master cylinder reservoir has a fluid level sensor). Leaks are dangerous because
they can cause brake failure. The brake calipers, wheel cylinders, brake hoses and
lines, and master cylinder all need to be inspected. If a leak is found, the defective
component must be replaced. Your vehicle should NOT be driven until the leak can
be repaired.

LOW BRAKE PEDAL The brake pedal may be low if the shoe adjusters on rear
drum brakes are rusted or sticking and not compensating for normal lining wear.
Adjusting the rear drum brakes may restore a full pedal. But unless the adjusters are
cleaned or replaced the problem will return as the linings continue to wear. Other
causes include worn brake linings or a fluid leak.

SPONGY OR SOFT BRAKE PEDAL This is usually caused by air in the brake
system, either as a result of improper bleeding, fluid loss or a very low fluid level.
The cure is to bleed all of the brake lines using the sequence recommended for your
vehicle. Another possible cause is a rubber brake hose that is "ballooning" when the
brakes are applied.

EXCESSIVE BRAKE PEDAL TRAVEL Possible causes include worn brake linings
front or rear (or both), misadjusted drum brakes, or air in the brake lines. This can be
dangerous because the brake pedal may run out of travel before the brakes are fully
applied. Pumping the pedal when you apply the brakes usually helps, but you need
to diagnose and fix the problem.

PEDAL SINKS TO FLOOR This may occur while holding your foot on the brake
pedal at a stop light. If the pedal goes slowly down, it means the master cylinder is
not holding pressure. This is also a potentially dangerous condition because a worn
master cylinder or a leak in the hydraulic system may cause the brakes to fail.

BRAKE PEDAL PULSATION Indicates a warped brake rotor (one that is worn unevenly).
The rotor needs to be resurfaced or replaced. The faces of a rotor must be parallel (within
.0005 inch on most cars) and flat (no more than .003 inches of runout as a general rule on
most cars and trucks, but some cars cannot tolerate any more than .0015 inches of runout).
Excessive runout can be corrected by resurfacing the rotors in place with an on-car brake
lathe, or by installed special tapered shims between the rotors and hub to correct the runout.

SCRAPING NOISE FROM BRAKES Usually indicates metal-to-metal contact due to

worn out disc brake pads (or shoes on rear drum brakes). Your vehicle needs a
brake job now! In fact, it is overdue for a brake job. Your vehicle is also dangerous to
drive in this condition because it may take longer to stop. The rotors and/or drums
will likely have to be resurface or replaced because you waited too long to replace
the pads and shoes.

BRAKE SQUEAL Can be caused by vibrations between the disc brake pads and
caliper, or the pads and rotor. Harder semi-metallic brake pads tend to be noisier
than nonasbestos (NOA) or ceramic brake pads. The noise can usually be
eliminated by replacing the old pads with new ones (ceramic pads are usually the
quietest, but may not be available for some applications because the vehicle
requires semi-metallic pads), and resurfacing or replacing the rotors. Installing noise
dampening shims behind the pads, spraying the rotors with some type of aerosol
brake noise control compound and/or applying a small amount of high temperature
brake grease (never ordinary grease) to the backs of the pads can also help
suppress noise. Also, if any pad mounting hardware such as shims or anti-rattle clips
are missing, these should be replaced.

BRAKE CHATTER Can be caused by warped rotors or rotors that have been
improperly finished.

GRABBY BRAKES Oil, grease or brake fluid on the brake pads will cause them to
slip and grab. This may create a jerky sensation when braking. The cure is to inspect
the pads for contamination, replace them if they have oil, grease or brake fluid on
them, and eliminate the cause of the contamination (such as replacing a leaky brake
caliper or curing a nearby oil/grease leak). Badly scored drums or rotors can also
cause uneven or grabby braking. Resurfacing may be needed.

DRAGGING BRAKES This can cause a steering pull and/or increased fuel
consumption. The constant drag will also accelerate brake wear and cause the
brakes to run hot (which can increase pedal effort and the risk of brake fade if the
brakes get too hot). Dragging brakes can be caused by weak or broken retracting
springs on drum brakes, a jammed or corroded disc brake caliper piston, a floating
caliper with badly corroded mounting pins or bushings (uneven pad wear between
the inner and outer pads is a clue here), overextended drum brake self-adjusters or a
sticky or frozen emergency brake cable.

BRAKES PULL TO ONE SIDE If your vehicle suddenly swerved to one side when
you apply the brakes, there is uneven braking side-to-side. This usually means one
front brake is not working properly. The pull will be toward the side with the good
brake (because it is doing all the work). Brake pull can be caused by brake fluid, oil
or grease on the brake pads, a stuck caliper, a blockage in the brake line to one of
the front calipers, or sometimes loose wheel bearings. A brake pull can also be
caused by different types/brands of brake pads side-to-side on the front brakes.
Different friction materials have different friction characteristics, so the brakes will
pull toward the side that generates the most friction.

HARD BRAKE PEDAL Lack of power assist may be due to low engine vacuum, a
leaky vacuum hose to the brake booster, or a defective brake booster. The booster is
located between the master brake cylinder and firewall in the engine compartment.
Sometimes a faulty check valve will allow vacuum to bleed out of the booster
causing a hard pedal when the brakes are applied. This condition can be diagnosed
by starting the engine (to build vacuum), shutting it off, waiting four or five minutes,
then trying the brakes to see if there is power assist. No assist means a new check
valve is needed.

A quick way to check the vacuum booster is to pump the brake pedal several times
with the engine off to bleed off any vacuum that may still be in the unit. Then hold
your foot on the pedal and start the engine. If the booster is working, the amount of
effort required to hold the pedal should drop and the pedal itself may depress
slightly. If nothing happens and the vacuum connections to the booster unit are okay,
a new booster is needed (the vacuum hose should be replaced, too).

On vehicles equipped with "Hydroboost" power brakes, a hard pedal can be caused
by a loose power steering pump belt, a low fluid level, leaks in the power hoses, or
leaks or faulty valves in the hydroboost unit itself (the latter call for rebuilding or
replacing the booster).

On vehicles that use the ABS pump to generate brake boost, a problem with the
ABS pump or high pressure accumulator can cause a loss of power assist. This will
usually cause the ABS WARNING LIGHT to come on. The ABS system will also set
a fault code that corresponds to the problem, which requires a scan tool to read.
 2. HOW WOULD YOU INSPECT FOR WEAR AND DAMAGE

DRUM BRAKES

 DEEP WEAR AT THE EDGE OF THE DRUM WHERE THE LININGS RUB
 DEEP WEAR ONLY ON ONE SIDE INDICATES THAT THE DRUM IS NOT
CONCENTRIC
 POLISHED OR GLAZED DRUM
 SCORED DRUM
 HOT SPOTS
 BLUEING OF THE DRUM CAUSED BY EXCESSIVE HEAT
 CRACKED DRUM
 OIL OR GREASE HAS PENETRATED THE DRUM SURFACE
 BROKEN RETURN SPRINGS
 WORN FRICTION LININGS ON SHOES (NO LESS THAN 2MM)
 HYDRAULIC OIL LEAKS
 SLAVE CYLINDER SEAL OIL LEAKS

DISC BRAKES

 WORN FRICTION LININGS ON PADS (NO LESS THAN 2MM)

 WORN BRAKE ROTOR/DISK (CHECK THE WEAR EDGE INDICATOR ON
THE DISK, MOST DISKS HAVE 4 MM OF WEAR ON EACH SIDE OF THE
DISK)
 THERMAL OVERLOADING AND CRACKED BRAKE DISK
 BRAKE DISK DISTORTION
 UNEVEN WEAR OF THE BRAKE DISK
 WEAR EDGES ON BRAKE DISK
 CORROSION OF THE BRAKE CALLIPER/ SEIZED PARTS
 HYDRAULIC OIL LEAKS
 PITTING OF THE OUTSIDE OF THE BRAKE PAD (MEANS THERE IS LESS
SURFACE AREA LEADING TO LESS EFFECT OF BRAKING FORCE)
 3. HOW WOULD YOU ADJUST BRAKES

TYPES OF MECHANICAL ADJUSTERS

 WEDGE ADJUSTER
 SNAIL CAM ADJUSTER
 STAR WHEEL ADJUSTER
 AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER

ADJUSTING

JACK UP THE WHEEL TO BE ADJUSTED

ADJUST THE BRAKE UNTIL THE BRAKES LOCK THE WHEEL
DEADJUST THE BRAKE UNTIL THE WHEEL CAN TURN
REPEAT ON ALL WHEELS

4. DESCRIBE HOW YOU WOULD BLEED BRAKES

 SINGLE LINE – START AT THE WHEEL FURTHEST FROM THE MASTER

CYLINDER

 TANDEM LINE - START AT THE WHEEL CLOSEST TO THE MASTER

CYLINDER

BLEEDING BRAKES WITH THE AID OF A HELPER

 ATTACH A PIECE OF CLEAR TUBING (600MM LONG) TO THE BLEED

NIPPLE
 PLACE A CLEAN GLASS CONTAINER ON THE FLOOR AND PUT THE FREE
END OF THE TUBE INTO IT
 POUR ENOUGH BRAKE FLUID INTO IT TO COVER THE END OF THE TUBE
 LOOSEN THE BLEED NIPPLE AND GET SOMEONE TO PUMP THE PEDAL
 WATCH THE TUBE FOR AIR BUBBLES AND ONCE IT CLEARS UP GET THE
HELPER TO KEEP THE PEDAL DEPRESSED AND CLOSE THE NIPPLE
 THE MASTER CYLINDER MIGHT EMPTY AFTER JUST A FEW PUMPS SO
KEEP A EYE ON THE LEVEL AND KEEP TOPPING UP
 MOVE ONTO THE NEXT NIPPLE FOLLOWING THE SAME PROCEDURE

BLEEDING BRAKES ON YOUR OWN

 BLEEDING BRAKES WITH A NON RETURN VALVE INVOLVES EXACTLY

THE SAME PROCEDURE BUT YOU DO NOT NEED A HELPER
5. EXPLAIN HOW AIRBRAKES OPERATE

All air brake systems use air pressure to apply the brakes when you step on the pedal. The
air is stored in a series of pressure tanks on the truck. The air is pressurized by the air
compressor on the

truck’s engine. The pressure is regulated by the air governor on the air compressor. Most,
if not all systems, work on 120 psi of pressure.

Some systems have an air dryer, which dries the moisture out of the air to keep it from
freezing in the winter time.

The air dryer has a cartridge in it that should be changed once per year. The air is
pressurized by the compressor,

passes through the air dryer and into the tanks. From the tanks, it goes to two different
systems.

The first system is the emergency system. This is the system that releases the parking
brake and holds some reserve air to stop you if there is a leak. The way the parking brake
system works on most trucks is there are springs in the air chambers on the rear axle or
axles of the truck that apply the parking brakes. When you

push the parking brake knob in, this supplies air to those air chambers and pushes against
the springs to release the parking brakes. If the pressure in the air system pulls below 60
psi the parking brake knob will pop out and set the parking brakes.

This is a safety feature so the truck will stop, because if the pressure falls too low, the
service brakes will not work. If you are driving a semi tractor with a trailer, the trailer
knob for the brakes works in the same way. But if there is an air leak in the trailer, the
tractor protection valve will make the trailer brakes set to protect the tractor’s air supply
so you can still stop.

The other system is the service brake system. This is the system that stops you when you
push on the brake pedal. When you push on the brake pedal it goes through the pedal
valve, which modulates the air flow to the brake chambers. The brake chambers in turn
push on the slack adjusters, which is the component that keeps the brakes in adjustment.
There are different types of slack adjusters — manual and automatic.

Manual slack adjusters are just as they sound. You must manually adjust them to keep the
brakes in adjustment. These are, in my opinion, the best style to have.

The automatic slack adjusters automatically adjust themselves to keep the brakes in
adjustment. These work well if you keep them greased. The problem is that most people
don’t keep them greased and they seize up and don’t work. If you do have automatics, the
best grease to use on them is white lithium grease.
 The slack adjusters turn a shaft that turns the S cams, which push the brake shoes out into
the drums. The S cam shafts have bushings in them that should be checked every time
you change the shoes. They are also grease-able.

There are such things as air disc brakes but they are not very common. Most brake shoes
have an indicator built into the end of the pads that tell when they need to be replaced.
When you replace the brake shoes you should also get hardware kits that include the
springs, pins and bushings for the brakes. You should also always replace the drums when
you replace the brake shoes. This is a good idea because the drums will have a wear ridge
on them and could also have heat cracks in them.

BATTERIES

1. STATE SAFETY PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES YOU WOULD TAKE WHEN

WORKING IN A BATTERY ROOM, INCLUDE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING

SAFETY

 WELL VENTILLATED ROOM TO DIFFUSE GASES (EXPLOSIVE HYDROGEN

RELEASED FROM THE BATTERIES DURING CHARGING)
 NO SMOKING
 FIRE EXTINGUISHERS
 EYE WASH
 FACILITES FOR FLUSHING AND NEUTRALIZING SPILLED ELECTROLYTE
 RACKS FOR BATTERIES SHOULD BE MADE OF MATERIALS THAT ARE
NON CONDUCTIVE TO SPARK GENERATION
 LIFT CAREFULLY TO AVOID BACK INJURY
 WHEN CHARGING – CHECK ELECTROLYTE LEVEL, TOP UP WITH
DISTILLED WATER IF THE LEVEL IS LOW, CONNECT POSITIVE LEAD TO
POSITIVE TERMINAL AND CONNECT NEGATIVE LEAD TO NEGATIVE
TERMINAL THE THEN PLUG IN AND SWITCH ON THE CHARGER.
 WHEN CHARGING IS COMPLETED - SWITCH OFF THE CHARGER AND
UNPLUG IT BEFORE REMOVING THE LEADS. THE BATTERY SHOULD BE
LEFT TO STAND FOR A PERIOD OF TIME BEFORE FITTING IT TO THE
VEHICLE SO THAT HYDROGEN GAS CAN DISPERSE
 TOOLS AND OTHER METALLIC OBJECTS SHALL BE KEPT AWAY FROM
THE TOP OF BATTERIES TO PREVENT ARCING AND SPARKING

PROTECTIVE CLOTHING

FACE SHIELD
APRON
RUBBER GLOVES
TYPES OF CHARGING (MULTIPLE BATTERIES)

 CONSTANT VOLTAGE – CONNECT IN PARALLEL

 CONSTANT CURRENT – CONNECT IN SERIES

2. HOW WOULD YOU CONNECT BATTERIES FOR INCREASED VOLTAGE OR

INCREASED CAPACITY

INCREASED VOLTAGE - SERIES

INCREASED CAPACITY - PARALLEL

3. EXPLAIN HOW YOU WOULD MAINTAIN BATTERIES

 ENSURE THE ELECTROLYTE LEVEL IS 6MM ABOVE THE PLATES BY

TOPPING UP WITH DISTILLED WATER
 COAT EACH TERMINAL WITH PETROLEUM JELLY TO REDUCE
CORROSION
 WHEN USING JUMP LEADS CONNECT THE BATTERIES IN PARALLEL,
AFTER THE VEHICLE HAS STARTED LET IT RUN FOR A FEW MINUTES
BEFORE DISCONNECTING THE LEADS, NEGATIVE FIRST
 WHEN FITTING BATTERIES DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE MOUNTING
BRACKETS AS IT CAN DAMAGE THE CASING AND LEAD PLATES
 DO NOT OVERCHARGE AS IT WILL DAMAGE THE BATTERY, FREQUENT
TOPPING UP OF DISTILLED WATER INDICATES OVERCHARGING

4. WHAT DO WE USE A HYDROMETER FOR

A HYDROMETER IS USED TO MEASURE THE SPECIFIC GRAVITY OF AN

ELECTROLYTE, THE READING INDICATES THE STATE OF CHARGE

VALUES QUOTED REPRESENT THE WEIGHT OF ELECTROLYTE IN RELATION TO

THE WEIGHT OF AN EQUAL VOLUME OF DISTILLED WATER AT 20C

FULLY CHARGED – 1.280

HALF CHARGED – 1.200
FULLY DISCHARGED – 1.150
 5. WHAT IS A HIGH RATE DISHARGE TEST

PERFORMED ON A FULLY CHARGED BATTERY

THE EQUIPMENT USED INDICATES THE ABILITY OF THE BATTERY TO SUPPLY

A LARGE CURRENT, SIMILAR TO THAT USED TO OPERATE THE STARTING
MOTOR

THE TEST IS PERFORMED FOR NOT MORE THAN 15 SECONDS, THE BATTERY
SHOULD NOT FALL BELOW 9.6V DURING THE LOAD TEST

STEERING GEARBOXES AND GEOMETRY

1. STATE TYPES OF STEERING GEARBOXES AND IDENTIFY PARTS

WORM AND SECTOR

WORM AND ROLLER
CAM AND PEG
SCREW AND NUT
RECIRCULATING BALL

COMMON PARTS OF ALL STEERING GEARBOXS

INNER COLUMN OR STEERING COLUMN (CONNECTS TO THE STEERING)

ROCKER SHAFT ( CONNECTS TO THE PITMAN ARM)
DROP ARM OR PITMAN ARM (CONNECTS TO THE DRAG LINK)
FILLER PLUG (FOR ADDING GEAR OIL)
ADJUSTING SCREW (BACKLASH ADJUSTMENT)
 2. WHAT ADJUSTMENTS CAN BE DONE ON STEERING GEARBOXES

 END FLOAT OF INNER COLUMN – GENERALLY A SHIM ADJUSTMENT

 END FLOAT OF ROCKER SHAFT – GENERALLY A SHIM OR SCREW
ADJUSTMENT
 BACKLASH BETWEEN GEARS – SCREW ADJUSTMENT

3. STATE THE ACKERMANN PRINCIPLE AND ITS FUNCTION

THE ACKERMAN PRINCIPLE IS A STEERING GEOMETRIC ANGLE THAT ALLOWS

FOR THE INNER FRONT WHEEL TO TURN THROUGH A SHARPER ANGLE ON
TURNS

IF IMAGINARY LINES ARE DRAWN THROUGH THE CENTRE OF ALL FOUR

WHEELS THEY WILL MEET AT A COMMON POINT, THE WHEELS WILL PIVOT
AROUND THIS POINT
IT IS ACHIEVED BY INSETTING THE TRACK ARMS, IF IMAGINARY CENTRE
LINES WERE DRAWN FROM EACH TRACK ARM THE LINES WOULD MEET AT A
POINT JUST INFRONT OF THE DIFFERENTIAL

4. WHAT CHECKS SHOULD BE CARRIED OUT BEFORE DOING WHEEL

ALIGNMENT

 CHECK FOR WHEEL BUCKLE

 CHECK STEERING COMPONENTS AND SUSPENSION FOR EXCESSIVE
PLAY AND WEAR
 INFLAT ALL TYRES TO CORRECT PRESSURE
 BRING THE VEHICLE TO THE CORRECT KERB MASS
 CHECKING THE RIDING HEIGHT
 ENSURE THE FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS ARE ADJUSTED

5. WHAT IS CAMBER AND ITS FUNCTION, POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE

CAMBER ANGLE – AS VIEWED FROM THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE, IF THE

STUB AXLE IS MADE SO THAT IT TILTS THE WHEEL, IT IS THE ANGLE FORMED
BETWEEN VERTICLE AND THE WHEEL CENTRE LINE

 POSITIVE CAMBER - WHEN THE WHEEL TILTS OUTWARD FROM THE TOP
– PRODUCES LIGHTER STEERING (POSITIVE CAMBER NEEDS A SLIGHT
TOE IN SETTING TO CANCEL OUT THE CONE ROLL EFFECT)

 NEGATIVE CAMBER - WHEN THE WHEEL TILTS INWARD FROM THE TOP
– PRODUCES HEAVIER STEERING, MOST MODERN VEHICLES HAVE
NEGATIVE CAMBER, THE HEAVY STEERING IS OVERCOME BY POWER
STEERING (NEGATIVE CAMBER NEEDS A SLIGHT NEEDS A SLIGHT TOE
OUT SETTING TO CANCEL OUT THE CONE ROLL EFFECT)

 CAMBER SETTING IS USED TO AID CORNERING HANDLING, TYRE GRIP

6. WHAT IS CASTOR AND ITS FUNCTION, POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE

 CASTOR ANGLE – IS OBTAINED BY MOUNTING A KINGPIN INFRONT OR

BEHIND A WHEEL OR BY INCLINING THE KINGPIN INFRONT OR BEHIND
AT THE BOTTOM

 POSITIVE CASTOR – IS OBTAINED BY MOUNTING THE KINGPIN INFRONT

OF THE WHEEL OR INCLINING THE KINGPIN FORWARD AT THE BOTTOM.
THIS ANGLE IS USED FOR REAR WHEEL DRIVE VEHICLES AS THE DRIVE
 WHEELS ARE PUSHING THE VEHICLE THUS THE FRONT WHEELS WILL
FOLLOW THE LINE OF THRUST AND SELF CENTRE

 NEGATIVE CASTOR – OBTAINED BY MOUNTING THE KINGPIN TO THE

REAR OF THE WHEEL OR INCLING THE KINGPIN TO THE REAR AT THE
BOTTOM. THIS ANGLE IS USED FOR FRONT WHEEL DRIVE VEHICLES AS
THE DRIVE WHEELS ARE PULLING THE FRONT WHEELS THUS SELF
CENTERING THEM

 CASTOR ANGLE IS USED SO THE DRIVER CAN FEEL THE STRAIGHT

AHEAD POSITION AND ALSO TO SELF CENTRE THE FRONT WHEELS

7. WHAT IS KING PIN INCLINATION AND ITS FUNCTION

 KINGPIN INCLINATION (KPI) OR SWIVAL AXIS INCLINATION (SAI) – IS

OBTAINED BY TILTING OF THE KINGPIN OUTWARDS AT THE BOTTOM
AS VIEWED FROM THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE. THE ANGLE FORMED
BETWEEN THE KINGPIN CENTRE LINE AND THE VERTICAL IS REFERED
TO AS THE KINGPIN INCLINATION (KPI)

KINGPIN INCLINATION IS USED TO SELF CENTRE THE VEHICLE (THE CAR

TENDS TO LIFT AS THE WHEELS ARE TURNED THUS A FORCE IS PUSHING THE
WHEELS BACK TO CENTRE) AND TO OBTAIN POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE OFFSET
WHICH HELPS IN BRINGING THE VEHICLE TO A STOP IN A STRAIGHT LINE
EVEN IF THERE IS UNEVEN BRAKING

8. WHAT IS TOE IN AND TOE OUT, AND WHAT SETTING IS USED FOR
FRONT AND REAR DRIVEN VEHICLES

 FRONT ENGINE MOUNTING – TOE OUT AND NEGATIVE CASTOR

 Toe out as the wheel are toed in as the car accelerates, negative camber as the wheels
are being pulled

 REAR ENGINE MOUNTING – TOE IN AND POSITIVE CASTOR

 Toe in as the wheels toe out as the car accelerates, positive camber as the wheels are
being pushed, will follow the line of thrust thus self centering
9. WHAT TYPES OF LINKAGES ARE USED FOR INDEPENDENT FRONT
SUSPENSION

 3 PIECE TRACK ROD

 RACK AND PINION