0% found this document useful (0 votes)

144 views158 pages

Self Employed Tailor Removed Removed (1) Removed

The document is a comprehensive handbook for self-employed tailors, detailing the apparel industry, the role and responsibilities of a tailor, and various modules related to tailoring skills, including drafting, sewing processes, inspections, and compliance with industry standards. It highlights the growth of the Indian textile and clothing sector, its economic contributions, and the employment opportunities it provides. Additionally, it covers essential soft skills, health and safety practices, and entrepreneurship skills necessary for success in the tailoring profession.

Uploaded by

kinnariestates

We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.

Available Formats

Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

0% found this document useful (0 votes)

144 views158 pages

Self Employed Tailor Removed Removed (1) Removed

Uploaded by

kinnariestates

We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.

Available Formats

Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

Self Employed Tailor

Table of Content
S. No. Modules and Units Page No.
1. Orientation and Introduction 1
Unit 1.1 - Apparel Industry 3
Unit 1.2 - Role and Responsibilities of a Tailor 8
2. Drafting and cutting the fabric (AMH/N1947) 11
Unit 2.1 - Tools and Equipment Required for Tailoring 13
Unit 2.2 - Types of Fabric 22
Unit 2.3 - Trims and Accessories 27
Unit 2.4 - Size Chart 31
Unit 2.5 - Taking Measurements 37
Unit 2.6 - Drafting and Cutting 45
Unit 2.7 - Types of Fabric Defects 59
3. The Sewing Process (AMH/N1948) 79
Unit 3.1 - The Sewing Process 81
Unit 3.2 - Stitching 90
Unit 3.3 - Knowledge of Basic Embroidery Stitches 140
4. Inspections and Alterations for Fittings (AMH/N1949) 155
Unit 4.1 - Inspections and Alterations for Fittings 157
5. Maintain Work-Area, Tools and Machines (AMH/N0102) 169
Unit 5.1 - Maintain Work Area, Tools and Machines 171
6. Comply with Industry, Regulatory and Organizational Requirements 179
(AMH/N0104)
Unit 6.1 - Comply with Industry, Regulatory and Organizational Requirements 181
Unit 6.2 - Entrepreneurship 189
Unit 6.3 - Documentation 192
7. Soft Skills And Communication Skills 197
Unit 7.1 - Introduction to the Soft Skills 199
Unit 7.2 - Effective Communication 201
Unit 7.3 - Grooming and Hygiene 205
Unit 7.4 - Interpersonal Skill Development 215
Unit 7.5 - Social Interaction 226
Unit 7.6 - Group Interaction 230
Unit 7.7 - Time Management 233
Unit 7.8 - Resume Preparation 236
Unit 7.9 - Interview Preparation 241

vii
Participant Handbook

Table of Content
S. No. Modules and Units Page No.
8. Maintain Health, Safety and Security in Tailoring Shop (AMH/N1950) 245
Unit 8.1 - Maintain Health, Safety and Security in Tailoring Shop 247
Unit 8.2 - First Aid and CPR 255
9. Employability & Entrepreneurship Skills 259
Unit 9.1 – Personal Strengths & Value Systems 263
Unit 9.2 – Digital Literacy: A Recap 280
Unit 9.3 – Money Matters 285
Unit 9.4 – Preparing for Employment & Self Employment 294
Unit 9.5 – Understanding Entrepreneurship 303
Unit 9.6 – Preparing to be an Entrepreneur 322

viii
viii
Self Employed Tailor

UNIT 1.1: Apparel Industry

Unit Objectives
At the end of this unit, you will be able to:
1. Familiarize with the Apparel Sector

1.1.1 Apparel Sector – Industry Overview

Indian Textile and Clothing (Apparel) industry is the second largest manufacturer in the world. The Indian textiles
and clothing sector is expected to grow at 10.01 percent in the next 10 years from the current value of INR3.92
lakh crores in 2012–13 to INR10.54 lakh crores in 2021–22. Of these, the garments sector is estimated to grow at
an average rate of 15.44 percent over the years, thereby accounting for about 70 percent of the total production
The demand for domestic consumption for home textiles and garments is expected to increase rapidly . In fact,
the garments sub-sector alone is estimated to increase by seven times from INR 51400 crores in 2012–13 to
INR3.70 lakh crores in 2021–22
The Indian textile sub-sector has traditionally been contributing significantly to the economy and manpower as
well as to the structural changes in the manufacturing sector. As of 2012, the sector contributed 4 percent of the
GDP, 32 percent of the manufacturing sector and 9 percent of total exports The sector’s output is expected to
grow at an annual average rate of 10 percent in the next 10 years, thereby increasing its worth to INR 10.5 lakh
crores in 2022. Several factors that would contribute to the growth would include:
• Rising income levels are expected to increase the demand for home textiles and garments from domestic
consumers is expected to increase.
• Free trade agreements provide India a comparative advantage in the export segment as compared to its
competitors – China, Bangladesh and Pakistan – as they create opportunities for manufacturers to supply to
potential markets in East Asia.
• Low production cost continues to be an advantage for the sector and, consequently, demand from existing
foreign markets continues to increase.
• Structural changes in the sector, with a shift from vertically disintegrated to integrated large firms, with
automated machines for yarn and fabric production.
• Increased spending on research and development to enter the specialized fabrics and technical textiles sector.
• Favourable policy environment to support domestic and foreign investments and the implementation of
schemes to enhance the production capacity and improve technology.
Ready Made Garments
The ready-made garments section has grown rapidly in the last few years. Both exports and domestic demands
shall drive sector growth in future.
The ready-made garments segment comprises men’s, women’s and kid’s clothing, which may be used for either
private (home/office wear) or commercial (uniforms for school, waiters and flight crew) purposes.
• Men’s wear is the biggest segment in the ready-made garment segment, comprising about 43 percent of
its share in the total revenue generated. This is followed by women’s wear, with a share of 38 percent; 10

3
Participant Handbook

percent share of boys wear and 9 percent for girls wear in the total revenue generated by the ready-made
garment segment.
• Changing lifestyles and consumption patterns are expected to drive the sector’s supply of causal wear with
an 11 percent growth, which would drive demand for workforce with specialised skills in western formals
design, blended fabrics and increased application work on clothes.
Actual and Projected size of Indian Textile Industry
In 2011 global trade in textiles and apparel was around US$ 705 billion. This was approximately 4% of the total
global trade of all commodities estimated at ~ US$ 15 trillion. During the period 2000 to 2010 the textile and
apparel trade has grown at a modest CAGR of 6.4% per annum. Further, the Global Textile and Apparel, or T&A,
trade is expected to grow to USD 1 trillion by 2020.

Fig 1.1.1: Major Textile Exporters to the World (% share) Fig 1.1.2: Major Textiles and Clothing Regions in India

Source: Office of Textile Commissioner and IMaCS Analysis

• Gujarat and Maharashtra: Most large companies across all sectors of the value chain, including spinning,
weaving, home textiles and garments, are located here. Key players include Aravind Mills, Raymond, Welspun,
Bombay Dyeing, Alok, Century Textiles.
• Karnataka and Kerala: Bangalore and Mysore have a few garment firms. Some major garment exporters
include Gokaldas Exports and Shahi Exports.
• Tamil Nadu: Major cities that serve as textile hubs are Tirupur, Coimbatore, Madurai and Karur; known for
apparels, spinning mills, silk and home textile units, respectively. Key players include Loyal Textiles, KG Denim,
Asian Fabric. Tamil Nadu accounts for the largest textiles and clothing production of INR 761820 crores, which
also employs the largest number of workers (2.63 million) in textile factories. This state is followed by Gujarat,
which has an annual textile production valued at INR 49165 crores.
• There are more than 70 textiles and clothing clusters in India accounting for about 80 percent of the total
production. There are 39 power loom clusters and 13 ready-made garment clusters in India.
• Bhiwandi and Malegaon are the two largest power loom clusters. Major ready-made garments clusters are
located in Delhi, Mumbai, Gurgaon, Nagpur, Madurai and Salem, with annual turnover of more than INR 1000
crores since 2003. The state of Maharashtra has 10 textile clusters. Other major states in terms of the number
clusters are Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Kerala and Uttar Pradesh (seven clusters each).
Employment Scenario in the Sector
It also provides employment to approximately 35 million persons directly & approximately 55 million persons
indirectly. India is among the very few countries which have presence across the entire supply chain, from natural
and synthetic fibres right up to finished goods manufacturing. It has presence in organised mill sector as well as

4
Self Employed Tailor

decentralised sectors like handloom, power loom, silk, etc.

Currently, 15.23 million people are employed in the textile sub-sector across yarn and fabric, home textiles, technical
textiles and readymade garments. Fifty-one percent of the total workforce is engaged in the manufacturing of
readymade garments, followed by yarn and fabrics with 26 percent. Human resource requirement in the sector
is expected to reach.
22.34 million by 2022 translating into 6.31 million additional employment opportunities during the period
2013-22.

Sub Sector Employment in Millions

2017 2022
Spinning Weaving and Finishing of Textiles 3.14 3.18
Manufacture of Other Textiles 10.64 13.78
Manufacture of Wearing Apparel 4.28 4.58
Overall 18.06 22.34
Fig 1.1.3: Sub Sectors in Apparel Industry

1.1.2 Made-ups and Home Furnishings

The made-ups sub-sector is growing at a steadily increasing pace in the country. The wide variety of products that
come under this sub-sector are not only include necessities but also functional and luxury products. Made-ups
sub-sector is divided into three (3) broad categories:

Fig 1.1.4: Made-ups and Home Furnishing Sub-sector

5
Participant Handbook

Indian is among one of the biggest exporters in Apparel and Made-ups industry. In Home Textiles India is second
only to China in global exports, whereas in apparels, India is among the top 10.

Product Total World Export Major Contributor India's Contribution Other

Competing
Countries
Country Share & Value Ranks Share & Ranks
Value
Apparel 193400159 China 61224360 1 7429975 7 Itely, Bangladesh,
(32.45%) (3.8%) HK, Vietnam
H o m e 55921991 China 24015853 1 3973042 2
Textiles (42094%) (7.10%)
Fig 1.1.5: Textile Exports by Major Countries and India ('000 USD) * Source NSDC Skill Gap Study – Textile & Clothing

As evident from the Figs above, India is fast becoming one of the
leading global players in the Home Furnishings/Textile. Home
Furnishings industry offers wide varieties of products like bedspreads,
furnishing fabrics, curtains, rugs, cushion covers etc. Indian Home
Furnishings Market is forecasted to increase at an annual growth rate
(CAGR) of 8 percent over next five years. The industry will reach a
value of approximately US $5.29 billion by 2018. The Indian Home
Furnishing industry provides a unique blend of modern technology
Fig 1.1.6: Home Furnishing
and ethnic techniques to bring out products that are one of the best
in the world. The increase in the spending power of the Indian working class is also expected to contribute in the
growth of domestic consumption of made-ups and home furnishings industry

Fig 1.1.7: Estimated Domestic Consumption of Indian Textile Production (in INR '000) * Source NSDC Skill Gap Study – Textile & Clothing

6
Self Employed Tailor

With increased demand and completion from countries like

China, the demand of skilled workforce/kaarigars in the Home
Furnishings industry is bound to increase in coming years.

Fig 1.1.8: Apparel Made-ups

Exercise
1. When was sewing machine invented?
a) 20th century
b) 19th century
c) 18th century
d) 17th century
2. As of 2012, the Indian textile sub-sector contributed ____ percent of the GDP, _____ percent of the
manufacturing sector and _____ percent of total exports.
a) 4,32,9
b) 32,4,9
c) 4,32,8
d) 4,33,9
3. Explain the categories of Made-ups sub-sector with the help of a flow chart.
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................

7
Participant Handbook

UNIT 1.2: Role and Responsibilities of a Tailor

Unit Objectives
At the end of this unit, you will be able to:
1. Know who is a Tailor.
2. Understand the roles and responsibilities of a Tailor.

1.2.1 Self Employed Tailor - Job Description

Self Employed Tailor is a role of a self employed professional tailor
who can sew and repair garments, made ups and home-furnishing
articles and manage livelihood out of it.
A Tailor, also called a Stitcher is an important job-role associated with
Apparel sector and gives livelihood to a number of people who do
not have a job. The primary responsibility is to stitch/ sew fabric, fur,
or synthetic materials to produce apparels.

Fig 1.2.1: Tailors on the Job

Attributes: The tailor should have following attributes:
• Good eyesight
• Eye-hand-leg coordination
• Motor skills
• Clear vision and free from colour vision.
She should have good interpersonal skills, good listener and business acumen.

[Link] Job Overview

Tailors operate and tend sewing machines in order to perform garment sewing operations. This includes joining,
reinforcing and decorating garments or parts of garments. Tailors handle work on a large scale as they are required
to operate and tend to industrial machineries. They mount attachments such as needles and pattern blades and
adjust machines according to the specifications provided to them.
Tailors also adjust machine controls and regulate stitching speeds for every sewing project that they work on. It
is important for tailors to possess in depth knowledge of sewing machinery and the garments industry. They also
need to have sound hand-eye coordination and be able to cope with moderate physical effort.

8
Self Employed Tailor

[Link] Tailor's Duties and Responsibilities

• Refer to orders for sewing garments and select appropriate materials.
• Ensure that all materials and auxiliary supplies are available prior to beginning work.
• Start sewing machinery at the beginning of a shift and test it for proper functionality.
• Address any discrepancies or problems faced during the testing period.
• Draw threads through needles and adjust machine functions to meet the requirements of the sewing project.
• Position materials under needles to sew them together or make patterns.
• Replace and rethread needles for a subsequent project or in case of the existing one needing more thread.
• Sew missing stitches or replacement parts in accordance to repair instructions provided.
• Observe operations to detect any faults or defects in stitching.
• Notify supervisors of any problems or discrepancies during the sewing process.
• Attach button, grips, hooks and fasteners to finished garments.
• Attach elastic or tape to garments as specified in the work order.
• Ensure that the finished product conforms to the design and merchandising instructions provided in the work
order.
• Ensure that excess material or threads are cut away from the finished product.
• Trim finished garments using scissors and cutters.
• Perform general and preventative maintenance tasks on sewing machines to ensure their longevity.
• Examine finished garments for compliance and ensure that appropriate tags are sewed on them.
• Count number of garments stitched during a shift and record this information in company provided logs.

Exercise
1. Which of the followings are the key attributes of a Self Employed Tailor:
a) Motor Skills
b) Good eyesight
c) Vision
d) All the above
2. What are the roles and responsibilities of a Self Employed Tailor?
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................

9
Self Employed Tailor

UNIT 2.1: Tools and Equipment Required for Tailoring

Unit Objectives
At the end of this unit, you will be able to:
1. Know and recognize the different types of material and tools used in stitching.
2. Understand the stitching terms.

2.1.1 Basic List of Material and Tools Required for Stitching

There are various processes a tailor follows while stitching a garment. There are various tools which aid each of
these processes. Types of tools are as:
1. Measuring tools
2. Cutting tools
3. Marking or drafting tools
4. Hand tools
Scissors: Scissor are utilized for cutting the fabric and has a handle which
is aligned with the blade which helps you do the cutting steadily by
keeping the scissors even.

Fig.2.1.1: Scissors

Rotary cutter: The rotary cutter is something which has a blade to cut easily
and smoothly through fabric. It’s very efficient to be used to all different
kinds of projects, however it is especially good for quilting. All you require
is a rubber cutting mat and a rotary ruler so that when you are using a
rotary- cutter the surface of the Fig can be prevented from getting cut. Also,
keeping a mat helps in cutting a fabric in straight.
Fig.2.1.2: Rotary cutter

Thread: Various sort of threads are available, they are available in

rainbow colors, including clear ones. For most of the sewing machines
all you need is a need a spool of thread. The cone shaped threads are
also used however they are for different kind of machine called a serger.

Fig.2.1.3: Threads

13
Participant Handbook

Measuring tape: Measuring tape used for sewing to make it softer than
that used for construction projects so that it can be used to fit clothing
to the body.

Fig.2.1.4: Measuring tape

Needles: A sewing machine requires diverse needles than which are used
for hand-sewing. Machine needles have a bigger, blunter tip where they
fit into the machine. Various types of needles are used on various kinds of
projects.
Fig.2.1.5: Needles

Fabric: As different projects have different types of needle or thread requirements

similarly as per the requirement different types of fabrics are also needed with
different project for sewing.

Fig.2.1.6: Fabric

Pins: Pins are used to hold fabric together where it's supposed to be sewn and
to be adjusted as per the required fitting during alterations.
Pincushion: Pincushions are very useful in keeping the pins in order and in place,
it is usually in apple’s pumpkin’s or tomato’s shape.
Fig.2.1.7: Pins and Pincushion

Iron and Ironing Board: An iron is used to press fabric, seams open and make darts.
Your everyday iron is fine.

Seam ripper: The name says it all: It's used to rip seams.
Especially comes in handy when you're a beginning
sewer.
Fig.2.1.8: Iron and Ironing Board

Fig.2.1.9: Seam ripper

Pinking Shears: cuts a zigzag edge and is used for finishing hem
edges, seams, etc. It should not be used for cutting out a garment
b'coz it will not give an accurate cut line of the fabric.

Fig.2.1.10: Pinking Shears

14
Self Employed Tailor

Cutting Fig: A flat board placed on a fig where the fabric is laid out and
cut. The fabric can be pinned securely to the cutting board to prevent it
from slipping.

Fig.2.1.11: Cutting Fig

Sewing Gauge: a 6 inch gauge with a movable indicator convenient for

measuring short lengths.

Fig.2.1.12: Sewing Gauge

Hem Gauge: a measuring device marked with various depths and

hemline folds. It is practical when hemming straight on grain edges.

Fig.2.1.13: Hem Gauge

Yardstick/Meterstick: is use to measure fabric and to check grain line. It can

be used in marking a long straight lines and in measuring hem lengths.

Fig.2.1.14: Yardstick/Meterstick

Hip Curve: The Hip Curve is used in connecting or shaping slightly

curve [Link] has a measure of inches at the front and centimeters
at the back part.

Fig.2.1.15: Hip Curve

L-square: It is useful in constructing perpendicular lines with

divisional parts located in longer and shorter arms.

Fig.2.1.16: L-square

Tailor's Chalk: A thin piece of hard chalk used in tailoring for making temporary
alteration marks on clothing.

Fig.2.1.17: Tailor's Chalk

15
Participant Handbook

Novelty Yarns: Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made

with unusual features, structure or fiber composition such as slubs,
inclusions, metallic or synthetic fibers, laddering and varying thickness
introduced during production.

Fig.2.1.18: Novelty Yarns

Masking tape: Also known as sticky tape, is a type of pressure-
sensitive tape made of a thin and easy-to-tear paper, and an easily
released pressure-sensitive adhesive. It is available in a variety of
widths. It is used mainly in painting, to mask off areas that should not
be painted.
Fig.2.1.19: Masking Tape

French Curve: A French curve is a template usually made from metal,

wood or plastic composed of many different curves. It is used in
manual drafting to draw smooth curves of varying radii. The shapes
are segments of the Euler spiral or clothoid curve.

Fig.2.1.20: French Curve

Hand Needle: Hand sewing needles are available in varying sizes with
varying points. They guide the thread through fabric when you are
hand sewing.

Fig.2.1.21: Hand Needle

Punch Needle: A Punch needle is an easy to use tool that opens up

a delightful world of dimensional needle art. It quickly and easily
produces one-level or exciting three dimensional designs.

Fig.2.1.22: Punch Needle

Frame, round: Used for creating designs through hand stitch.

Fig.2.1.23: Frame, Round

16
Self Employed Tailor

Pattern making paper: Used for practising cutting and creating

patterns.

Fig.2.1.24: Pattern making paper

Tracing paper: Tracing paper is paper made to have low opacity

used for creating designs.
Fig.2.1.25: Tracing paper

Hand held thread trimmer: Used for thread trimming.

Fig.2.1.26: Hand held thread trimmer

Bent neck, metallic Tweezer: Tweezers are small tools used for
picking up objects too small to be easily handled with the human
Fig.2.1.27: Bent neck, metallic Tweezer hands

Pencils (HB, 2B, 4B): The graphite grading scales used to measure the
hardness of a pencil’s graphite core. The higher the number the harder
the writing core and the lighter the mark left on the paper.

Fig.2.1.28: Pencils (HB, 2B, 4B)

Pick glass: Handy Reed Pick glass helps in checking the reed pick of
the fabric. It also helps in checking the weaving, dyeing & printing
defects in the fabric if any is made.
Fig.2.1.29: Pick glass

17
Participant Handbook

Needle threader: A needle threader is a device for helping to put thread through
the eye of a needle. Many kinds exist, though a common type combines a short
length of fine wire bent into a diamond shape, with one corner held by a piece of
tinplate or plastic.

Fig.2.1.30: Needle threader

Nonwoven Non-fusible Backing Paper: It is made of man-

made fibers bonded together to form a paper-like sheet. SFig
nonwovens (no stretch) are best for medium- to heavyweight
fabrics with a slight to very crisp hand. Nonwovens with a
crosswise or all-direction stretch can be used for soft to moderate
shaping. Fusibles today are fast, secure and easy to use.

Fig.2.1.31: Nonwoven Non-fusible Backing Paper

Hand embroidery book: Used for learning hand embroidery.

Fig.2.1.32: Hand embroidery book

Fabric Glue: It provide temporary or permanent ways to attach fabric without sewing.

Fig.2.1.33: Fabric Glue

Surface ornamentation material (Beads, Sequins): Decorative material used for decoration of clothes.

Fig.2.1.34: Beads Fig.2.1.35: Sequins

18
Self Employed Tailor

Buttons: are attached to garment by hand stitching or machine

stitching

Fig.2.1.36: Buttons

Hooks: are attached to garment with the help of needle and thread

Fig.2.1.37: Hooks

Trims: Trim or trimming in clothing and home decorating is applied

ornament, such as gimp, ribbon, ruffles.

Fig.2.1.38: Trims

Lace: A fine open fabric of cotton or silk, made by looping, twisting,

or knitting thread in patterns and used especially for trimming
garments.
Fig.2.1.39: Lace

Zipper: Attached in lower garments.

Fig.2.1.40: Zipper

Pant hooks: Attached in lower garments.

Fig.2.1.41: Pant Hooks

19
Participant Handbook

Sewing Mannequin: it is a type of a doll used by tailors or tailors to

display or fit clothing.

Greyscale: It is used for maching

colors in the sewed garment
against the specifications.

Fig.2.1.42: Sewing Mannequin

Fig.2.1.43: Greyscale

Thimble: It is a small hard cup warn for protection on the finger

that pushes the needle in sewing

Fig.2.1.44: Thimble

2.1.2 Understanding Tailoring Terms

• LINING: An extra cloth attached under the main garment is known as lining. Used mainly under transparent
materials, lining gives the garment extra strength as well as finishing.
• INTER LINING: An extra layer put in between the main garment and the lining is known as inter lining.
• SEAM ALLOWANCE: The margin kept for stitching the garment is known as seam allowance. This means
thatafter drafting the neck, armhole, waist and chest, about 4cm margin is kept and then another line drawn
which is the stitching guide – this is known as the seam allowance.
• SELVEDGE: The finished edge of the cloth which is a self-finished edge at the time of weaving is known as
selvedge.
• PANELS: Strips of cloth joined in a garment for fashion or to increase the width are known as panels.
• SEAM: Seams are the basis of a garment. It is used to attach two pieces of cloth. After cutting the various
parts of the garment from a piece of cloth it is these seams either sewn by hand or with the help of a
machine which give those various pieces of cloth the shape of a garment.
• DART: Without spoiling the shape of the garment, and in order to give a perfect fit, a small amount of cloth
is folded and stitched with a single strand till the other end. This process is called putting a dart. It is used at

20
Self Employed Tailor

various places on the garment like bust dart, waist dart etc. to give fitting or fullness to shape.
• PLEATS: A fold taken from the inside of a garment and held in place by a stitch is known as a pleat. These are
of many types like straight pleats, inverted pleats etc. These are used either as a design element or to provide
fullness or fitting.
• TUCKS: Folding the cloth a little from the right side and stitching in a straight line is known as putting a tuck.
This is also used to enhance the beauty of the garment or to provide a better fit. If these stitched lines appear
of the thickness of a pin then they are known as pin tucks.

Exercise
1. ____________ is available in a rainbow of colours, including clear
a) Scissors
b) Thread
c) Pins
d) Needles
2. An iron is used for pressing the fabric, making darts and opening seams.
a) True
b) False
3. ___________ is a 6 inch gauge with a movable indicator convenient for measuring short lengths.
a) Hem gauge
b) Meterstick
c) Sewing gauge
d) Hip curve
4. Greyscale is used for matching colours in the sewed garment against the specifications.
a) True
b) False
5. What are the tailoring terms?
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................
6. What is tracing paper?
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................

21
Participant Handbook

UNIT 2.2: Types of Fabric

Unit Objectives
At the end of this unit, you will be able to:
1. Recognize the different types of fabric.

2.2.1 Types of Fabric

Fabric can be classified into two types:

Fig.2.2.1: Types of fabric

22
Self Employed Tailor

2.2.2 Fabric Commonly used for Garment Sewing

Silk
Silk is a natural protein fibre. It is a delicate fabric and is very light
weight and due to these features it has a free flowing and smooth
drape. It has a slightly shimmery appearance. It is a difficult fabric
to work with as it is very slippery. Its elasticity is very moderate to
poor. Apparels made of silk have to be Dry cleaned.

Fig.2.2.2: Silk
Velvet
Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric. Good quality velvet is made
of cotton or polyester. The most expensive velvet is made of silk
and sold today as ‘Silk Velvet’. Velvet has a smooth, soft and rich
touch and often used in evening wear and also extensively used
for upholstery. Apparels made of velvet have to be Dry cleaned.
Fig.2.2.3: Velvet

Chiffon
Chiffon is a sheer fabric with a free flowing drape and crepe like
structure. Chiffon is usually made of silk or polyester. It is very light
and thin and these features make it a very challenging material to
sew. Chiffon is a popular fabric for summer garments because of
its light weight.

Fig.2.2.4: Chiffon

Satin
Satin has a sleek and glossy finish. It is made of silk, cotton and
wool. It is well draping and is popularly used in dresses, bridal wear
and bedding. Thicker wool satin is used for coats. It also makes
a great lining fabric. Its slippery nature makes it very difficult to
work with.

Fig.2.2.5: Satin

Corduroy
Corduroy is normally made from Cotton. It is very similar to Velvet.
It is a thick fabric which is very warm and durable. It is normally
used in making coats, trousers and winter wear. Corduroys are
machine washable.

Fig.2.2.6: Corduroy

23
Participant Handbook

Linen
Linen is very popular in summers because it releases and absorbs
perspiration easily. It is very soft, cool and comfortable. Linen
wrinkles very easily and has to be ironed on high temperature
to remove the creases. It has very little elasticity. Linen is most
popularly used in household goods such as bedding, towels and
table clothes.

Fig.2.2.7: Linen
Denim
Denim is made from tightly woven cotton. It is a very heavy weight
fabric with very little drape or stretch. Denim is very durable and
that is why most commonly used in jeans. It is machine washable.

Fig.2.2.8: Denim

Polyester
It is a synthetic fabric. It is strong and durable but does not absorb
heat, so it is not a very popular fabric for hot temperatures. It does
not wrinkle and dries very easily.

Fig.2.2.9: Polyester
Rayon
Rayon is a manufactured fibre made of cellulose. Like polyester,
Rayon is also strong and durable but it wrinkles very easily. It is
very soft and comfortable and drapes very well. Hand washing is
best for washable rayon garments

Fig.2.2.10: Rayon

Flannel
Flannel is made from wool, cotton or synthetic fibre. It is a soft
and light weight fabric. Flannel maybe brushed to create extra
softness. It is popularly used for shirts, pants and jackets suitable
for colder temperatures

Fig.2.2.11: Flannel

24
Self Employed Tailor

Organza
It is made of either silk or polyester. It is a delicate and sheer fabric
and very popularly used in evening wear and bridal apparel. The
delicate nature of this fabric makes it very difficult to sew.

Fig.2.2.12: Organza

Wool
Wool is made from variety of animal coats. There are around 200
different types of wool. It absorbs and realises moisture quickly
and is a very popular fabric used for cold weather garments. It is
hardwearing and resists wear and tear.

Fig.2.2.13: Wool

Leather
Most commonly made of animal hide. Leather is very durable and
absorbs and releases heat quickly so it is very popularly used in
winters for jackets and skirts. It is also used in upholstery. Most
leather garments require special care in storing and cleaning.

Fig.2.2.14: Leather

25
Self Employed Tailor

UNIT 2.3: Trims and Accessories

Unit Objectives
At the end of this unit, you will be able to:
1. Recognise the trims and accessories
2. Understand the importance and use of trims and accessories

2.3.1 Trims and Accessories

Trims and accessories are a considered as an important part of any garment. Apart from enhancing the look of
the garment it also increases the usability of the garment.

Sewing Thread
The sewing thread holds the garment together. It is a specially
designed yarn which passes through a sewing machine easily and
makes the sewing process smother and easier.

Fig.2.3.1: Sewing Thread

Interlining
It is fabric which is placed under the main fabric. It is used to
enhance the look and retain the shape of the garment. Lining
should be chosen carefully as it can influence the colour of the
garment if it is different from the colour of the main fabric.

Fig.2.3.2: Interlining

Lace
Is a delicate fabric which is made either of thread or yarn. It is used
on garments for ornamental purpose.

Fig.2.3.3: Lace

27
Participant Handbook

Buttons
Button is a fastener which is used to temporarily secure two pieces
of fabric together. It is an accessory which is commonly used in
garments. It can be used for both functional and decorative purpose.

Fig.2.3.4: Buttons

Label
It is used in every garment. More than one label can be found
in every garment and each label provides different required
information. Size label, Main label (Name of the company), Price
tag label, Composition label, Fabric Care label etc. are some of the
labels you can find on garments.

Fig.2.3.5: Label

Zipper
Zipper is also a fastener and is used to temporarily join two ends of
a fabric together. It is mainly used in clothing and bags.

Fig.2.3.6: Zipper

Elastic
A band which is capable of resuming original shape after stretching
or compression. This property of elastic makes its useable in various
kinds of garments.
Fig.2.3.7: Elastic

Draw string
It is a long rope with a stopper and is used to tighten a part of a
garment. Draw string is also used in bags and pouches.

Fig.2.3.8: Draw string

Hook and eye

It is also a fastener. One part of it works like a hook which is placed
into the eye which is like a loop. Both the parts are made of metal
and Is used to close the waist of skirts and pants.

Fig.2.3.9: Hook and eye

28
Self Employed Tailor

Rivets
It is a metal part with pin which is used for decorative purpose
usually in denims and canvas pants.

Fig.2.3.10: Rivets

Piping
It is used to stabilize seams, outline components and absorb the
wear and abrasion to the seam

Fig.2.3.11: Piping

Rib Trims
It is used in collor and cuff of tshirt and polo shirt.

Fig.2.3.12: Rib Trims

Adjustable waist band

It is an elastic band with holes and uses a button to tighten or loosen
the waist of a garment.

Fig.2.3.13: Adjustable waist band

Beads
These are embroidered on to the formal wear as motifs or spread
over as individual pieces on the garment.

Fig.2.3.14: Beads

29
Participant Handbook

Exercise
1. Trims and accessories increase the usability of the garment.
a) True
b) False
2. _________ is a delicate fabric which is made either of thread or yarn.
a) Interlining
b) Lace
c) Label
d) None of the above
3. Piping is used to stabilize seams, outline components and absorb the wear and abrasion to the seam.
a) True
b) False
4. What are beads?
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................
5. What is elastic?
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................
...................................................................................................................................................................................

30
Self Employed Tailor

UNIT 2.4: Size Chart

Unit Objectives
At the end of this unit, you will be able to:
1. Understand the different size chart comparison tables
2. Know the different terms used in size charts

2.4.1 Size Charts

Each country formulates and follows its own size charts taking into account the body type and measurements of
the general population in the country.
• Womens size chart comparison table
• Mens size chart comparison table
• Kids size chart comparison table
• Terms used in size chart
Womens size chart

Fig.2.4.1(a): Womens size chart

Fig.2.4.1(b): Womens size chart

31
Participant Handbook

Mens size chart

Fig.2.4.2(a): Mens size chart

Fig.2.4.2(b): Mens size chart

Children size chart

Fig.2.4.3: Mens size chart

Terms used in size charts

Terms Meaning
XXS Double extra small
XS Extra small
S Small
M Medium
L Large
XL Extra large
XXL Double extra large
Fig.2.4.4: Terms used in size charts

32
Self Employed Tailor

Women’s sizing terms

• Petite: Refers not only for short women but also a small framed woman (Women between the height of
4’11- 5’3 “)
• Tall: This is for taller women between 5’8”-6’ ½” and men 6’1” and taller.
• Plus size: This is for women sized 12-24, and XL-4XL (instead of small, medium, and large).
Men’s sizing terms
• Big and Tall: This term is primarily used for men’s plus sized clothing — sizes 12 and up, and XXL-4XL
Fits
• Relaxed: Relaxed fit clothing, also known as oversized or boyfriend-style clothing for women
• Slim: Fit clothing is meant for a closer fit to the body and is often used to describe men’s dress shirts
• Rise: The term rise usually used as “low-rise,” “high-rise” or “mid-rise” is used to describe the distance from
the waist to the crotch on pants.

2.4.2 Using a Measuring Tape and Understanding Fractions

Measuring tape is a common measuring tool used by all tailors. It is a flexible ruler with linear measurement
markings on it. It consists of a ribbon of cloth, plastic, fibre glass, or metal strip. Its flexibility allows for a measure
of great length permits one to measure around curves or corners.
For taking measurements in garments, generally fibre made measuring tapes are used which have inch markson
one side and inch as well centimetre markson the other side.
Understanding the markings on the measuring tape
Inches: Inches are the long lines that cross either half of, or all of the 1" width of the measuring tape. They usually
are preceded or followed by numbers
• 1/2 of an inch is half of 1 inch.
• 1/4 of an inch is every four marks on the measuring tape
• 1/8 of an inch is twice as big as the 1/16 of an inch. It is every other mark
• 1/16 of an inch is usually the smallest

Fig.2.4.5: Measuring tape

Measurement on a tape measure. The distance between every line on the tape measure is 1/16 of an inch 1/32
of an inch is even more smaller which only certain measuring tapes indicate. The distance between every line on
the tape measure is 1/32 of an inch

33
Participant Handbook

Understanding Fractions
To dived the measuring tapes into inches, various fractions are used on the measuring tape (1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2
etc.). The figure indicates the various fractions of an inch of measurement

Fig.2.4.6: Fractions in a Measuring tape

Conversion of inches to centimetres

The below image and conversion table will help us understand how to convert inches into centimetres and
centimetres into inches.

Fig.2.4.7: Different measuring units on a Measuring tape

34
Self Employed Tailor

1 inch = 2.54 cms

2 inch = 2.54 cms x 2
3 inch = 2.54 cms x 3

Fig.2.4.8: Units conversion table (Inches to Centemeters

35
Self Employed Tailor

UNIT 2.5: Taking Measurements

Unit Objectives
At the end of this unit, you will be able to:
1. Take measurements for different garments.

2.5.1 Details on How to Take Measurements

Bust: Raise the arm to the shoulder level. The measuring tape should
cross around the fullest part of the bust. The measuring tape should
run directly over the nipples and across the shoulder blades on the
back.

Fig.2.5.1: Bust

Waist: The measurement should be taken around the narrowest point

of the waistline allowing 2 fingers between the waist and the tape
measure.

Fig.2.5.2: Waist

Hips: Standing with the knees together, the measurement should be

taken around the fullest part of the hips.

Fig.2.5.3: Hips

Shoulder to Bust: Run the measuring tape from the tip of the shoulder
to the centre of bust.

Fig.2.5.4: Shoulder to Bust

37
Participant Handbook

Front Shoulder to Waist: Measure from tip of shoulder over bust to natural
waistline.

Fig.2.5.5: Front Shoulder to Waist

Shoulder to Shoulder: Measure across the back of neck from the

socket of one shoulder to the socket of the other shoulder.

Fig.2.5.6: Shoulder to Shoulder

Shoulder to Neck: Measure from base of neck along top of shoulder

to the shoulder socket.

Fig.2.5.7: Shoulder to Neck

Down Centre Back: Measure from nape of neck to natural waist.

Fig.2.5.8: Down Centre Back

Back Shoulder to Waist: Measure from tip of shoulder to natural

waist line.

Fig.2.5.9: Back Shoulder to Waist

Across Back: Measure from armhole across back to armhole positioning

tape measure + - 8cm down from nape of neck.

Fig.2.5.10: Across Back

38
Self Employed Tailor

Full Back: Measure from side seam, under armpits to side seam across back,
positioning tape measure +- 4cm down under armpit.

Fig.2.5.11: Full Back

Sleeve Hole: Measure around the shoulder under the armpit.

Fig.2.5.12: Sleeve Hole

Bicep: Measure around the fullest part of the upper arm.

Fig.2.5.13: Bicep

Elbow: Do a fairly loose measurement around the bent elbow.

Fig.2.5.14: Elbow

Under Arm - Measure from under the arm. Start at the armpit to the
wrist.

Fig.2.5.15: Under Arm

Over Arm: Measure from outer shoulder

socket on outside of arm, with a bent
arm, to the wrist.

Side Seam: Measure from under armpit

to natural waistline down.
Fig.2.5.16: Over Arm

Fig.2.5.17: Side Seam Fig.2.5.18: Side Seam

39
Participant Handbook

Upper Arm: Measure from the outer shoulder socket on outside of

arm to crook of elbow.

Fig.2.5.19: Upper Arm

2.5.2 How to Take Measurement of Basic Garment

Neck: The measuring tape should be held around the neck line
and just below the Adam’s apple

Fig.2.5.20: Neck (courtesy [Link])

Full chest: The tape should cover the fullest part of the chest.
The tape should be held right under the armpits and shoulder
blades and across the nipples.

Fig.2.5.21: Full chest (courtesy [Link])

Shoulder width: The tape is held from one shoulder point to the
other.

Fig.2.5.22: Shoulder width (courtesy [Link])

Right sleeve: Taken from the shoulder tip point down to the
desired sleeve length. (The same process is followed for both
left and right sleeve measurement)

Fig.2.5.23: Right sleeve (courtesy [Link])

40
Self Employed Tailor

Bicep: Measure around the fullest part of the bicep in line with
the armpit.

Fig.2.5.24: Bicep (courtesy [Link])

Wrist: Measure around the fullest part of the wrist.

Fig.2.5.25: Wrist (courtesy [Link])

Waist: Measure around the fullest part of the waist.

Fig.2.5.26: Waist (courtesy [Link])

Trouser measurement guide

Hip: Measure around the fullest part of the hip or buttock.

Fig.2.5.27: Hip (courtesy [Link])

Trouser waist: Taken around the smallest part of the

waistline. Insert two fingers under the tape measure for ease
or allowance.

Fig.2.5.28: Trouser waist (courtesy [Link])

41
Participant Handbook

Trousers Inseam: Measure from the lowest part of the crotch area to the floor.
Trousers Outseam: Measure from the top of the pants waistband to the desired length of the pants.

Fig.2.5.29(a): Trousers Inseam Fig.2.5.29(b): Trousers Outseam

(courtesy [Link])

Thigh: Measure around your thigh at its widest point

Fig.2.5.30: Thigh (courtesy [Link])

Knee: Measure around your knee at its widest point.

Fig.2.5.31: Knee (courtesy [Link])

42
Self Employed Tailor

Crotch: Crotch Measure from the front top of the pants waistband to the back top of the pants waistband.

Fig.2.5.32(a): Crotch Back (courtesy [Link]) Fig.2.5.32(b): Crotch Front (courtesy [Link])

43
Self Employed Tailor

UNIT 2.6: Drafting and Cutting

Unit Objectives
At the end of this unit, you will be able to:
• Understand drafting and cutting
• Draft the garments
• Cut the garments

2.6.1 Introduction
Long sleeve shirt is a common wear of men used as upper body wear. Example shown in section 2.6.2 has
subsequent specifics.
Selected fabrics: poplin,cotton, silk, crepe, polyester, oxford cotton.
Materials required: 2.50 mts cloth width is 36”
Measurement required:
• back length = 32”
• n.w length = 17”
• shoulder width = 17”
• chest = 36”
• waist = 32”
• hip or seat = 38”
• sleeve length = 24”
• cuff size = 2 ½” *11”
• pocket size = 5” * 5 ½”

2.6.2 Drafting and Cutting of Long Sleeve Shirt

Drafting details front part:
• 1-2 =full length + 1”.
• 1-3 = chest/4(-) ½” , arm depth.
• 1-4 = 1/6th neck measure.
• 4-4a = 1” as per draft.
• 4a-4b = ¾” for button stand.

45
Participant Handbook

• 4b-6 =1 ½” for placket.

• 4b-2b =draw a line as per draft.
• 6-6a =draw a line as per draft.
• 1-7 =1/2 shoulder width +1/2” for seam.
• 7-8 = draw a line.
• 3-9 = 1/3rd chest measure.
• 10-4 = 1/6th neck measure.
• 10 -11 = draw line as per draft.
• 10-12 = 1” as per draft.
• 13-7 = shoulders slope 1 ½”.
• 14-2 = same as 9-3 measure.
• 14-15 = 4 ½” as standard measure.
• 14-16 =5 ½” as standard measure.
• 17-8 =1” as per draft.
• 18 is a middle measure of 13-8 distance
• 18-19 =3/4” as per draft.
• 13,19,17,19 = draw arm hole shape with arm
curve. Fig.2.6.1: Drafting of front and back part
• Cut the front part.
Back part:
• 20-21 = length +1”
• 22-24 = 1/4th chest (-) ½” (armhole depth).
• 20-25 = n.w length + ½”.
• 22-23 = draw a line.
• 24-24a = 1/3rd chest (-) 1 ¼”.
• 23-23a = 1 ¼” at 45˚
• 20-27 = 1” as per draft.
• 22-28 = 1” as per draft.
• 26-29 = 4 ½” as shown in draft.
• 26-30 = 5 ½” as shown in draft.
Shoulder part :
• 1-2 = 1/8th chest +1/2”.
• 1-3 = ½ shoulder width +1/2” for seam.
Fig.2.6.2: Drafting of other parts
• 3-4 = draw a line.
• 4-5 =1/2” as per draft.

46
Self Employed Tailor

• 1-6 = 1/6th neck + ¾”.

• 6-7 = 2” noted as per draft.
• 6-8 = 1”as per draft.
• 3-9 = 2”as per draft.
Long sleeve part:
• 1-2 = sleeve length +1/2”(-) cuff with 2 ½” .
• 1-3 = 1/8th chest (-) ½”.
• 3-4 = 1/4th chest +1/2”.
• 5-2 =½ cuff + 1 ½”.
• 5-6 =1/2” as per draft.
• 7 = middle or 5-2 measure.
• 7-8 =.4 ½” sleeve pocket open.
• 9 = ½ or 1-4.
• 9-10 = 1”,4,10,1 back arm shape is to be drawn
• 11=middle of 9-4 measure.
• 12-11 =¾ “ as per draft. 4, 12, 9, [Link] the front arm as per draft.
Cuff draft:
• 1-2 = cuff width.
• 1-3 = cuff length to be cut on fusible interlining as stiffer portion.
• Sleeve pocket length 5”.
• Width 1 1/4:”.
• Box 1 ¼” as ready portion and added all around ½” for seam margin.
Collar part:
• 1-2 = ½ neck measure
• 2-4 = 2” as standarad.
• 2-5 = 3/8” as per draft.
• 4-6 =3/8” as per draft.
• 7-5 = collar point 3 1/8”.
Neck band:
• 8-9 = ½ neck measure
• 9-10 = 1 3/8” as per draft.
• 11-8 =1 3/8” as per draft.
• 10-12 =1 3/8” as per draft.
• 10-14= 1/8” as per draft.
• To be cut fusible interlining allow to cut self fabric along with seam margin necessarily ½”.

47
Participant Handbook

2.6.3 Drafting and Cutting of Saree Blouse

Measurements Needed
Shoulder Measurement:
• Taken between two shoulder ends or nape of the neck to one shoulder end and doubled. When neckline
depth is more than 1/6th of the bust round, shoulder measurement is taken about 3cm to 4cm less on each
side.
Armscye Depth or Armhole Depth:
• Taken by direct measurement or calculated from the Bust Circumference.
• It is the best to measure the armscye depth directly on the body for accurate measurement. It is measured
straight from the shoulder end to about ½ an inch below the armpit. Armscye depth varies from 13cm – 18cm
(or about 5 inch – 7 inch) in the increasing order from the small sizes to the larger ones.
• Armscye depth can be calculated from the bust circumference in many of the ways by different dressmakers
for different outfits.
• For a sari blouse, following calculation is found to be the best:
1/6th of Bust Circumference
Front & Back Neck depths:
• Taken directly on the body or taken from an existing garment.
Bust Circumference:
• Taken around the fullest part of the bust.
Waist Circumference:
• Taken around the navel point.
Bust Point or Pivot Point:
• Taken straight down the shoulder to the bust point.
Waist Length:
• Taken from the nape of the neck to the desired length of the blouse.
Drafting & Cutting Instructions For A Basic Blouse With Waistline Dart
Front Part:
1. Square down centre front line and shoulder lines.
»» Centre Front Line: Waist Length + 1cm for seam allowance at shoulder + 1cm seam allowance at waist
»» Shoulder Line: ½ of Shoulder Measurement + 1cm seam allowance. Shoulder can be taken square or
sloped. This depends up on the garment to be made. Since a sari blouse is usually of wide neck, no slope
is suggested here.
2. Square Armscye Depth down the Centre Front Line. Take 1/4th of the Bust Circumference + 1cm ease + 5cm
seam allowance, horizontally. This wide seam allowance is useful for alterations.
3. Drop a straight line from shoulder end on to Armscye Depth. Draw front armhole shape about 1cm inward
this dropped line.
4. Square Waist Line at the bottom of the Centre Front Line. Take 1/4th Waist Circumference + 5cm dart
allowance + 5cm seam allowance. Give a rounded shape at the sides.

48
Self Employed Tailor

Fig.2.6.3: Front bodice of saree blouse

5. Dart: Take 1/12th of the Bust Circumference + 2.5cm at waist from the centre front. Draw an upright line.
Measure a point at about 3cm from the waist. (Note: This will be the starting point of the waist, exactly under
the bust part.)

49
Participant Handbook

Fig.2.6.4: Waist band of saree blouse

»» Mark a Dart of about 5cm here taking 2.5cm on each side. Measure and mark Bust Point on the same line
from the shoulder. Dart point will be about 2cm below the bust point. Draw a dart as shown.
6. Join the end points of Armscye Depth line and waist line.
7. Draw desired front neckline.
8. Cut along the highlighted outline excluding the darts as shown.
Back Part:
1. Square down centre back line and shoulder lines.
»» Centre Back Line: Waist Length + 1 cm for seam allowance at shoulder + 1cm seam allowance at waist
»» Shoulder Line: ½ of Shoulder Measurement + 1cm seam allowance
2. Square Armscye Depth down the Centre Back Line. Take 1/4th of the Bust Circumference + 1cm ease + 5cm
seam allowance, horizontally. This wide seam allowance is useful for alterations.
3. Drop a straight line from shoulder end on to Armscye Depth. Draw back armhole shape on this dropped line.
4. Square Waist Line at the bottom of the Centre Back Line. Take 1/4th Waist Circumference + 2cm dart allowance
+ 5cm seam allowance. You may need to shape the waistline a little to match it to the front.
5. Dart: Mark a dart on the waist line at 1/12th of Bust Circumference + 1cm. This dart is about 7cm in length
with 1cm width on each side.
6. Join the end points of Armscye Depth line and waist line.

50
Self Employed Tailor

Fig.2.6.5: Back bodice of saree blouse

7. Draw desired back neckline. This is usually kept deeper than that in the front.
8. Cut along the highlighted outline as shown.
Fastening:
Fastening can be given in the centre front or in the centre back. Add 1cm seam allowance for the attachment of
hook and eye fastening strips.

51
Participant Handbook

Significance of Having A Basic Bodice Pattern

• This is the basic most pattern for sari blouse exclusive of waist bands and extra darts. Assembling is simple
for the apprentices.
• Any style variation in the neckline can be tried on this pattern. For high necks, a shoulder slope is given.
• This pattern helps as a base for all the types of princess lines. For details on princess lines, click here. Just
eliminate the darts without a need to press the design as given here.
• Easy to increase length.
• Back or front clasp styles are easily modified. This pattern is without the seam allowance for fastening. 1cm
seam allowance is to be added at the centre (front or back) to give an opening.

2.6.4 Drafting and Cutting of Kurta/Kameez

Kurta and/or Kameez are traditional costumes of India. It is used along with Salwar, Churidar or denim pants. The
Collar or the neckline can be shaped according to style. This garment is cut into three pieces, the front, back and
sleeve. Darts are used to give fit or shape to the garment. The creation of Kameez may look long but it is very easy,
just follow the instructions and you will end up with your own Kameez top.
The construction of Kameez may look long but it is very easy, just follow the instructions and you will end up with
your own Kameez top.
Measurement
• Square Neck: 14 Inches
• Across Shoulder: 14 inches
• Chest: 36 inches
• Waist: 28 inches
• Hip: 38 inches
• Length of Top: 25 inches
Material Required:
• 1¼ Mtrs of fabric
Construction - Front
(0-1) = Kameez length (desired length)
(0-2) = Armhole depth = ¼ chest – 1”(for Medium figure) or 2”(for heavier figure)
(2-3) = Chest line = ¼ chest + 1” (for Tight fit) or 2” (for loose fit)
(5-6) = Shoulder drop = 1cm
(0-5) & (2-6’) = ½ shoulder
(0-7) = Neck width
(0-9) = Front neck depth
X is mid point of 6-6’. (x-x’) = 1cm
Shape (6-x’-3) front armhole curve.

52
Self Employed Tailor

Measure 6-x’-3 it should be more than ½ armhole by 3 to 4cms.

(0-10) = waist length
(10-11)= ¼ waist + 1” or 2” (same as chest line)
(0-12) = Hip length
(12-13)= Hip line = ¼ hip+2”
(1-4) = same as hip line
(4-4’) = 1” up for shaping. Join (1-4’) hem line
(4’-13) = Slit opening (Slit should not cross the Hip line)
Cutting line:

Fig.2.6.6: Kurta - Front and Back

9-7-6-x’-3-11-13-4’-1 (9-1) on fold

Construction - Back
(0-1) = Kameez length
(0-2) = Armhole depth = ¼ chest – 1”(for Medium figure) or 2”(for heavier figure)
(2-3) = Chest line = ¼ chest + 1” (for Tight fit) or 2” (for loose fit)

53
Participant Handbook

Fig.2.6.7: Kurta - Sleeve

(5-6) = Shoulder drop = 1cm

(0-5) & (2-6’) = ½ shoulder
(0-7) = Neck width
(0-8) = Back neck depth
(8-8’) = Back slit opening = 1/6 chest + 1”
X is mid point of 6-6’.
Shape (6-x-3) front armhole curve.
Measure 6-x-3 it should be more than ½ armhole by 3 to 4cms.
(0-10) = waist length
(10-11) = ¼ waist + 1” or 2” (same as chest line)
(0-12) = Hip length
(12-13) = Hip line = ¼ hip+2”

54
Self Employed Tailor

(1-4) = same as hip line

(4-4’) = 1” up for shaping. Join (1-4’) hem line
(4’-13) = Slit opening (Slit should not cross the Hip line)
Cutting line:
8-7-6-x-3-11-13-4’-1 (8-1) on fold
Cut 8-8’ on fold for back neck slit opening (Neck slit opening need only at the circumference of head is lesser than
neck circumference)
Construction: Sleeve
(0-1) = Sleeve length
(0-2) = 1/8 chest – 1½”
(2-3) = ¼ chest – ¾”
(1-4) = ½round arm
Join (3-4) under arm seam
Join (0-3)
X is the mid point of (0-3)
Take (x-x’) = 2 to 2.5cms up
Shape 0-x-3 front armhole curve
Shape 0-x’-3 front armhole curve
Cutting line:
1-4-3-x’-0 then cut through the first 2 layers 0-x-3
Seam Allowance:
¼” on neck line, armhole and back neck slit open
1” on side seams
1½” on hemlines

2.6.5 Drafting and Cutting of Pant

To draft your pants, you'll need to do a little math. First, take your child's hip measurement and divide it by 2.
Then add 9 inches. Call this number A. Next, add the rise plus the inseam. Call this number B. Draw a rectangle
that is A wide by B tall.

55
Participant Handbook

Fig.2.6.8(a): Pant Drafting Fig.2.6.8(b): Pant Drafting

Draw a line across the rectangle between the inseam and rise lengths. Bring the sides of the rectangle in as shown
at the rise line. The 1" side is the front of the pants, the 2" side is the back.

Fig.2.6.9(a): Pant Drafting Fig.2.6.9(b): Pant Drafting

Curve the corners to create the crotch lines. At the front edge, drop the line 2 inches and redraw it - this way the
waist will cover your kid's booty but not come up uncomfortably high in the front.

56
Self Employed Tailor

Fig.2.6.10(a): Pant Drafting Fig.2.6.10(b): Pant Drafting

Bring the bottom corners of each pants leg in 1 1/2". Measure

the waistline - you'll need that measurement to create the
waistband.

Fig.2.6.11: Pant Drafting

If you want cuffs, trace out a rectangle that covers the

part of the pants you want to be the cuff. Don't follow the
angle of the pants leg at the bottom; keep your rectangle
with 90 degree corners. Cut off your pants pattern at
this line, separating the pants and the cuff. Add seam
allowances all around the pants piece.

Fig.2.6.12: Pant Drafting

The waistband will be cut on the fold, so add a seam allowance to the top and side edge, then double this
rectangle in height for the final waistband piece (because it will be folded in half to form the casing).

57
Self Employed Tailor

UNIT 2.7: Types of Fabric Defects

Unit Objectives
At the end of this unit, you will be able to:
• Understand different types of defects
• Find and rectify the defects
• Identify different types of faults

2.7.1 Categories of Defects

Defects are categorised under three main areas
• Critical defect: A defect which makes the garment unsafe for individual consumption or it contravenes any
mandatory regulations
• Major defect: An obvious defect in the appearance which reduces the usability and sale ability of the garment.
• Minor defect: A defect which is caused by a workmanship error beyond the quality standards but does not
reduce the sale or consumption of the product.

59
Participant Handbook

60
Self Employed Tailor

61
Participant Handbook

62
Self Employed Tailor

Fig.2.7.1: Different types of defects

Examples of Critical Defects

S No Critical Defects
1 Loose components: Trims and fasteners those are used in the garment but not secure
properly. For example, buttons, snaps, stones etc
2 Sharp edges: During the processing of the garment it come in contact with various sharp
metals such as needles, staples. Broken needles, damaged or broken snap buttons,
rivets, wire and pins.
3 Drawstrings at head or neck for baby or kids products. Draw string must be avoided in
kids clothes.
4 Thread or trims which are extensively long or loose
Fig.2.7.2: Examples of Critical Defects

2.7.2 Factors to be Considered

Factors to be considered for classification of defects

Fig.2.7.3: Classification of defects

2.7.3 Types of Faults and Defects

The different types of faults and defects found in garments can be catogorised as:
• Preproduction Defects
• Stitching Defects
• Fabric Defects

63
Participant Handbook

Preproduction Defects
Pattern Making Defects
• Shaded parts
• Mismatched Plaids
• Marker too wide or narrow
• Unsymmetrical pieces
• Poor line definition (e.g., chalk line too thick or thin)
Spreading Defects
• Improper matching or the material is facing the wrong way
• Material too narrow or wide
• Improper tension-Material spread too tight or loose
• Narrow material-Marker width is not covered because the material is too narrow
Cutting Defects
• Improper cutting: Not following the pattern and marker lines,
• Frayed or unsharpened knife: Causes uneven or frayed edges.
• Notches: Too deep or shallow or completely omitted.
• Drill Marks: Not perpendicular, omitted or wrong drill used.
• Mixed piles:Resulting in shaded garment part when assembled
Bundling and Ticketing faults
It is very necessary to ensure numbering, sorting and bundling of the cut products is done properly. If it is not
done accurately it might result in mismatched products. For example if the lining materials are not numbered
and stacked properly, it might be wrongly used on a garment.
Fig.2.7.4: Preproduction Defects

Fabric Defects
Coloured flecks : This is caused due to the presence of foreign
material in the yarn

Knots: Knots are caused when the thread breaks during the process
of winding or weaving of the yarn. This is a non-mendable defects.

64
Self Employed Tailor

Broken pattern: When there is a non-continuity in the pattern,

design or weave caused due to the non-drawing in of threads

Hole, cut or tear: are caused due to various factors such as sharp
edges on cloth roll, using the wrong kind of cutting material, hard
substance between layers of fabric etc.

Untrimmed loose threads: Is caused if the tail ends are not

trimmed after piecing up. This defect can easily be rectified with
the help of clippers.

Fig.2.7.5: Fabric Defects

Stitching Defects
Skipped Stich: The common cause for this would be if the machine is
incorrectly threaded, the needle is damaged, Needle is not suitable for
the thread used, Thread is too fine or thick, Fabric is not held correctly.
Thread Breaks: If poor quality thread is used, improper setting
of needle and bad quality needle, Machine is dirty and thread is
inserted incorrectly, Machine operator did not release tension
before removing the material.

Seam pucker : Happens if the fabric is very light, not held properly
and too tightly woven. Also if the thread is of wrong size and is too
tight. If the needle needs replacing, the thread and needle do not
go together.

65
Participant Handbook

Excessive Seam Grin: Occurs when the sewing machine thread is

not inserted properly and there is a tension

Re stitched seams/Broken Stitches: Is caused if the thread breaks

or the machine runs out of thread during sewing or happens during
the treatment of the finished product.

Open seam: Is caused if the thread strength is inadequate and if

there is not enough stitches per inch.

Seam failure: Is caused if the fabric is week or loosely constructed.

Improper stitch balance: Bad quality thread, the bobbin thread

tension is not set correctly and the minimum straight to get a
balanced stitch is not obtained.

66
Self Employed Tailor

Ragged Edge: Caused when the sewing machine knives are not
sharpened and changed often

Fig.2.7.6: Stitching Defects

Example of faults and their remedies

Fig.2.7.7: Shirt Inspection Checklist

Woven Fabric Defects

67
Participant Handbook

68
Self Employed Tailor

Fig. 2.7.8: Woven Fabric Defects

Other Knitted Fabric Defects

69
Participant Handbook

70
Self Employed Tailor

Fig. 2.7.9: Knitted Fabric Defects

Accesory Defects

ZIPPERS
Slider defect Won't Lock: Not apparent without
testing by placing Zipper slider in
locked position and applying tension.
Faulty Dimension: Not readily apparent.
May cause either a hard or a loose
operating zipper. Either condition may
result in zipper failure before garment is
worn out. Crushed Slider: May be due
to improper garment pressing or due
to padding or compensating springs in
the presses not being in best condition.
Tarnished: Does not generally interfere
with operating qualities but is a matter
of appearance only. Judging" this
as a defect depending upon degree
of tarnish. Burn or Rough Spots Not
immediately apparent. Can cause snagging
and early wear on the upper tape.
Lock Prong Interferes Indicated by
pull-tab not staying in locked position
or slider not moving freely after
being released from locked position.
Weak Slider Bodies: Can best be determined
with proper testing equipment. However,
manifests itself by slider becoming
compressed or crushed under minimum
pressure or becoming distorted enough to
create hard operation.
Chain or Improper Dimensions: Not always apparent
Teeth Defect unless slider works with great difficulty
or operates too easily. Zipper' may give
initial satisfactory operation but fail after
only moderate use and especially after
laundering or dry cleaning. Miss meshed
and Unmeshed Teeth: Readily Cord not

71
Participant Handbook

visible, particularly in large. Usually results

in inoperable zipper. Missing Teeth: Readily
visible, will result in early failure of the
zipper. Misplaced Teeth: This refers to a
tooth being out of position, and occasionally
may involve two or three teeth. Seriousness
ranges from trifling to almost as serious as a
missing tooth depending upon the degree of
misplacement and general design of zipper.
Off color: This defect is quite apparent.
Zipper manufacturers normally carry a
complete range of tape colors. Due to
similarity of different colors, one may be
mistaken for another. It is also possible,
because of color similarities or difference in
dye lots that the two halves of the zipper
will have two different shades of tape.
Humpy Chain: Readily noticeable by its
waviness. Causes difficulty at sewing
operation and distorts finished garment's
appearance. Attached to Tape: Due to
skipped stitches during operation of sewing
cord to tape. Not readily apparent but
under strain, cord and teeth will rip away
from tape and render zipper and garment
unusable. Length: Improper zipper length
for given opening.
Top or Missing Top or Bottom Stop: Readily
Bottom Stop apparent and will result in zipper failure. If
Defects facilities for attaching a top or bottom stop
are not available, then the entire zipper
should be replaced. In some instances,
bottom stops are attached at garment plant.
An improperly or poorly attached bottom
stop may be result of carelessness on part
of the operator or of improper functioning
of the bottom stop machine.
Snap fasteners
Hard Action: In light-weight goods this may result in stud
or socket pulling through the material. The
snap fastener manufacturer can be of help
in recommending proper tension of stud in
socket for weight of garment material.
Light Action: Snap fastener does not stay closed because
of lack of proper tensions. Same comment
applies as for tight closure.

72
Self Employed Tailor

Hooks & Improperly Applied: This is usually caused by

Eyes a careless operator or improperly adjusted
attaching equipment, and corrections are
usually simple when apparent. Improper
Alignment: Gauges are available for
attaching equipment to assure proper
alignment in positioning. This is a necessary
if garment is to have a properly tailored
look. If the top of the zipper is extended into
the waistband of the trouser, than the hook
and eye should be offset to prevent it from
hitting the zipper material.
Poor Finish: May be the result of improper
finishing or pocking of the metal surface
and, while this defect dose not interferes
with the functional operation, it may not
leave the desired finished appearance of the
garment. Tight/ Loose Closure: Attaching
equipment ill fitted with an adjustable
feature permitting secure application of
hook and eye to either light or heavyweight
goods. If closures seem too tight, then one
should immediately check the [Link]
equipment for proper adjustment.

Buttons
R o u g h This is not a serious fault except in cases
or Dull of extreme roughness or poor surface
Surfaces appearance.

N o n - This type of defects cannot be noted during

Uniform. the garment manufacturing operation
Inaccurately and can slip inspection unnoticed but it
S p a c e d frequently causes needle breakage or cut
Chipped or thread.
Blocked Sew
Hole:

Fig.2.7.10: Accessory Defects

73
Participant Handbook

2.7.4 Rectification of Defects

Few common stitching defects encountered by in-line checkers and their causes are listed below:

Improper Stitching Incorrect threading

Bent needle head
Improper feeding Insufficient or too much pressure on pressure foot.
Stitch length too short.
Skip stitching Incorrect threading
Damaged needle
Larger needle hole
Improper thread tension- too tight /thread stretches when heated.
Skip stitching (overedge machine) Loopers are incorrectly set
Needle to looper setting is incorrect
Wrong thread type
Wavy Seam Stitch length too short
Pressure too heavy or light
Wavy Seams (overedge machine) Different feed needs increasing
Piles Feed unevenly Incorrect pressure on the pressure foot
Piles lock or stitch together
Feed dog at incorrect height
Inappropriate pressure-foot
Inappropriate needle plate
Unbalanced Tension Different thread on needle and bobbin
Thread slipped out of tension disc
Incorrect threading
Poor quality thread
Bent, rusted or incorrect bobbin/improperly or unevenly wound bobbin/
bobbin have several layer of thread/bobbin case screw has worked out.
Unbalanced Tension (overedge Low power tension needs adjustment
Machine)
Uneven Stitches Thread does not feed smoothly/thread has wrong twist/thread incorrectly
threaded between tension discs.
Pressure too tight
Cracked Seam Lint between the tension discs, guides or eyelets Bobbin or looper thread
tension too tight
Needle too small or wrong point
Threads not moving smoothly through guides or eyelets. Threads are too
thick for needle or machine has rough spots.

74
Self Employed Tailor

Thread Breakage Poor quality thread

Tension too tight
Needle set improperly
Needle needs replacement
Pressure bar not down
Rough needle eye, throat plate or thread spindle

Seam grin Stitch length too short

Thread not set into tension discs properly
Tension on needle thread too loose
Machine Jam Machine is incorrectly threaded
Needle set incorrectly or damaged
Static electricity pulls fabric into needle hole
Bobbin inserted incorrectly
Unthreading of needle Thread end too short
Take-up lever is not at highest position
Needle Breakage Needle needs replacment or set incorrectly
Pressure foot too loose
Bobbin or bobbin case incorrectly set
Pulling fabric while stitching or without raising pressure foot.
Fabric too thick
Bobbin Thread breakage Improperly threaded machine
Bobbin tension too tight
Bobbin too full
Bobbin pigtail caught in bobbin-case
Bobbin screw not working properly

Fig.2.7.11: Common stitching defects

75
Participant Handbook

Process to Rectify Few Defects

Re-stitched Seams / Broken Stitches Using better quality sewing threads

Ensure proper machine maintenance
Open Seam – Seam Failure – Stitch Better quality threads
Proper size thread for application
Proper tension
Seam Slippage Change seam type if possible
Increase seam width
Optimize the stitches per inch.
Excessive seam Puckering Correct thread type and size.
Sew with minimum sewing tension to get a balanced
stitch
Machine needle, bobbin and threads are set properly
according to the fabric to be sewn.
Knits & Stretch woven puckering Set the machine properly according to the fabric
Minimum pressure foot pressure
Improper Stitch balance – 301 Lockstitch Use quality thread
Properly balance the stitch so that the needle and
bobbin threads meet the middle of the seam. Always
start by checking bobbin tension to make sure it is set
correctly, so that minimum thread tension is required
to get a balanced stitch
Improper Stitch balance – 401 Chain stitch Use quality thread
Properly balance the stitch so that when the looper
thread is unravelled , the needle loop lays over half
way to the next needle loop on the underside of the
seam
Improper Stitch balance – 504 Overedge Stitch Use Quality thread
Properly balance the stitch so that when the looper
thread is unravelled, the needle loop layover half way
to the next needle loop on the underside of the seam
Raggeded/Inconsistent Edge Make sure the sewing machine knife are sharpened
and changed often
The knives should be adjusted properly in relationship
to the “stitch tongue” on the needle plate to obtain
the proper seam width
Fig.2.7.12: Process to Rectify Few Defects

76
Self Employed Tailor

2.7.5 Fabric Care

The proper care of clothes ensures that the garments last longer and gives one value for money and look great
after a number of washings
Safe Ironing temperatures limits for fabrics

Cotton 400 o -425o F

Linen 450 o F
Silk 300 o F
Wool 300 o F
Nylon 300 o -350 o F
Polyester 325 o F
Rayon 350 o -375 o F (Reverse and iron)
Rubber Do not iron
Fig.2.7.13: Safe Ironing temperatures limits for fabrics

77
Self Employed Tailor

UNIT 3.1: The Sewing Process

Unit Objectives
At the end of this unit, you will be able to:
1. Recognize the different types of sewing machine and understand the different parts of a sewing machine
2. Thread a sewing machine
3. Understand the different hand sewing methods

3.1.1 Types of Sewing Machines

In accordance with the job requirement, the tailor uses different types of sewing machines. These machines have
to be chosen and handled with care to provide best results.
Lockstitch sewing machine: Also called the domestic sewing machine, this is a regular and popular machine
which is used at home and also in schools. It is run manually but also can be converted to electric power
machine.

Fig.3.1.1(a): Hand driven Domestic sewing machine Fig.3.1.1(b): Peddle driven Domestic sewing machine

Single needle lock stitch machine: It is modern high quality the color
LCD touch panel sewing machine which reduces the disposition of
the thread ends.

Fig.3.1.2: Single needle lock stitch machine

Embroidery Machine: This is used in making diverse kinds of

embroidery and fancy stitches on fabrics. This machine is popularly
used in making pillow cases, linen, and other novelty.

Fig.3.1.3: Embroidery Machine

81
Participant Handbook

Button Holer Machine: As the name of the machine suggests. This is

used in making buttonholes on garments.

Fig.3.1.4: Button Holer Machine

Button Attachment Machine: This machine is used in attaching

buttons to the garments

Fig.3.1.5: Button Attachment Machine

Bartacking Machine: This is used in reinforcing the opening and

closing of pockets.

Fig.3.1.6: Bartacking Machine

Double needle lock stitch Machine: It works similar to the single

needle lock stitch machine, using double needles and bobbins thus
resulting in two parallel rows of lockstitch. The distance between
the two stitches lines depends upon the distance between the two
needle bars which can be adjusted.
Fig.3.1.7: Double needle lock stitch Machine

3.1.2 Parts of a Basic Sewing Machine and Their Functions

It is important for the beginner to know and recognize

the different parts of the sewing machine. The basic
structure of a hand operated or electric sewing
machine are the same.

Fig.3.1.8: Parts of a Basic Sewing Machine

82
Self Employed Tailor

Parts of Sewing Machine:

1. Spool pin: While the thread feeds through the machine, the spool pin keeps the spool in place. Some
machines have both horizontal and vertical spool pins.
2. Thread guide: It holds the thread in position from the spool to the needle.
3. Tension disc: The thread passes between the two concave discs put together with the convex sides facing
each other. There is a spring and nut which increases or decreases pressure thus adjusting the tension of the
thread
4. Take up lever: It is a lever fitted to the body of the arm. It’s up and down motion feeds the thread to the
needle and tightens the loop formed by the shuttle.
5. Needle bar: Its main function is to give motion to the needle. The steel rod holds the needle at one end.
6. Bobbin case: This moves into position to catch the top thread and form the stitch as the needle is lowered
into the bobbin chamber.
7. Presser foot: It is fixed to the presser bar and holds the cloth firmly in position when lowered.
8. Presser foot lifter: It is a lever attached to the presser bar for raising and lowering the presser foot.
9. Stitch regulator: This controls the length of the stitch.
10. Bobbin winder: A simple mechanism used for winding thread on the bobbin.
11. Fly Wheel: When this is made to revolve, it works the mechanism of the motion
12. Clutch or Thumb Screw: This is in the centre of the fly wheel and it engages and disengages the stitching
mechanism.
13. Slide Plate: A rectangular plate, which facilitates the removal of the bobbin case without lifting the machine.
14. Needle Plate or Throat Plate: A semi-circular disc with a hole to allow the needle to pass through it.
15. Feed dog: This consists of a set of teeth fitted below the needle plate. It helps to move the cloth forward
while sewing.
16. Face plate: A cover which on removal gives access to the oiling points on the needle bar, presser bar and
take-up lever.
17. Spool pin for bobbin winding: Spool of thread is placed on this at the time of bobbin winding.
Few more parts of the sewing machine are as follows:
1. Arm: The horizontal upper part of the head which has the mechanism for handling upper thread and driving
the needle.
2. Back Stitch Lever: A lever located at the lower right hand side of the machine and its basic function is to form
the stitches in reverse direction.
3. Bed : The lower portion of the machine i.e. stands under which the mechanism for handling lower thread
including the shuttle and feed are mounted.
4. Bobbin: A small metal spool that holds the lower thread supply.
5. Hand Wheel: Handel is located on the right side of the machine. It is driven by hand or belt in the domestic
machine and with the help of belt in the industrial machine. It controls the movement of the needle bar and
drives the machine.
6. Hand Lifter: To lift the presser foot by hand.
7. Head: The upper part of the machine above the stand. It is a complete sewing machine without the bed.

83
Participant Handbook

8. Pan: It is the metal pan under the head that catches oil, lint, broken threads.
9. Shuttle: A device that carries the needle thread around the bobbin and forms the lock on the lock stitch.
10. Tension Regulator: It is a mechanism which controls the tension of upper thread and the quality of stitches.
The tension of the thread is adjusted with the help of spring and nut which controls the pressure on the disc.
11. Thread Stand or Spool Pin: It is a metal rod fitted either on top or on side of the stand to hold the thread
spool.
12. Thread Take Up Lever: A bar/lever which is located above the tension regulator. It moves up and down. It
has a hole through which the thread passes. It feeds thread to the needle and it also tightens loop formed
and locks it.

3.1.3 How to Thread a Sewing Machine

1. Put the presser foot in the ascendant position. Place a reel of thread
on the spool holder. Roving from the spool holder, diagonally through
the top of the machine, look for a smallest of one thread guide. Insert
the thread in the thread guide.
2. Look for a tension apparatus. Bring the thread down to the tension
mechanism, slip the thread amid the metal disks of the tension
mechanism, and port back upwards with the thread. Fig.3.1.9: Threading a machine

3. Look for a take up mechanism. This is the area on the anterior of the machine which will go up and down,
when you turn the hand wheel. Place the thread over the take up lever. Some machines are set up so the
thread will slip into this; others require you to place the thread through a hole.
4. At this time the thread will go downward on the left side of the take up lever.
5. Locate and thread any thread guides, leading down to the sewing machine needle.
6. Thread the sewing machine needle. Grip the thread with your left hand and turn the hand wheel.
7. Watch for any thread to flap about. If this chances, you have probably missed a thread guide.

3.1.4 Common Sewing Machine Problems

A Tailor should know how to tackle simple sewing machine problem. Below is the checklist for machine problems
and the best ways to solve them.

Machine troubles Causes Remedies

Skipped stitches • Defective machine needle • Replace the needle
• Low pressure on the presser • Increase pressure on the
foot presser foot.
Knotting or breaking thread • Bad quality thread • Completely un-thread your
sewing machine and re-thread
• Machine is threaded wrongly
it.
• Bobbin and Bobbin case is
• Thread it correctly.
threaded incorrectly.

84
Self Employed Tailor

Machine runs noisily • Insufficient oil • Oil the sewing machine

• Loose screw • Tighten the screws
Thread bunching or "Birds nesting " • Tension setting is too low • Reset the tension
• The thread is positioned • Re-thread the top thread
wrongly ensuring the threading line
indicator on the hand wheel is
• The bobbin case is positioned
positioned to the top
incorrectly
• Check the position of your
bobbin case and reset as per
instruction manual
Fabric not feeding • Feed has not been accidentally • Raise the feed to ensure the
lowered. fabric will move forward.
• Stitch regulator not set on zero • Adjust stitch regulator to
desired stitch length
• Too tight pressure on presser
foot • Add pressure to presser foot
by adjusting the pressure
regulator screw
Fig.3.1.10: Common Sewing Machine Problems and their Solutions

Fig.3.1.11: Solving common problem of a sewing machine

3.1.5 Different Hand Sewing Methods

Every tailor should know a few of the basic hand stitching methods. The popularly used hand stitching methods
are listed below.

85
Participant Handbook

Running Stitch: Push point of needle in and out of fabric until you have
several stitches on the needle. Hold fabric taut with left hand, pull the
needle through. It’s the basic stitch in hand-sewing and embroidery, on
which all other forms of sewing are based.

Fig.3.1.12: Running Stitch

Back Stitch: It is used in strengthening a seam made by hand.

• Make a running stitch
• Take a back stitch to the beginning of the first stitch, overlapping each
running stitch
Fig.3.1.13: Back Stitch

Basting: This stitch holds the fabric temporarily in place, until permanently
stitched. It is a longer version of a running stitch.

Fig.3.1.14: Basting

Outline Stitch: It is the slated version of the back stitch. Start with a straight stitch
in the fabric, and pull the thread through until you are left with a small loop. This
stitch is used to mark outlines in an embroidery pattern.

Fig.3.1.15: Outline Stitch

Blanket Stitch: Put your needle in 1/4 inch from the edge of the fabric,
put the thread under the point of the needle and pull through. It is used
for edging material of table-covers, mantel valances, blankets etc.
Fig.3.1.16: Blanket Stitch

Catch Stitch: It is one of the hemming stitches. The catch stitch is an ideal
stitch for when you need to hem knit garments. Working from left to right,
Take a stitch in the hem, then a tiny stitch to the right just beyond edge of
hem with the point of needle to the left. This makes diagonal lined that
cross each other.

Fig.3.1.17: Catch Stitch

Chain Stitch: Chain stitch is a series of looped stitches forming a chainlike

pattern. It is adapted to all different techniques, even lace making. Insert
the needle in and out of the fabric (as in the running stitch). Bring the
thread under the tip of the needle while still in the fabric, then pull the
needle through.
Fig.3.1.18: Chain Stitch

86
Self Employed Tailor

Padding stitch: Put at an angle this stitch resembles a temporary stitch. The first
line is taken at a certain angle and in the next line the angle is in the opposite
direction. Used to set layers of cloth. It is used mainly in coats.

Fig.3.1.19: Padding Stitch

3.1.6 Sequence of Sewing (A Basic Apron with Pocket)

Materials, Tools and Equipment Required:
• 1 yard of fabric
• Piece of coordinating fabric for the pocket
• 7/8" ribbon
• Apron Pattern

STEP 1: Place the apron pattern on the folded STEP 2: Fold the rectangle of coordinating
fabric and cut out. fabric in half with right sides together.
Stitch around three sides of the pocket
using a 1/2" seam allowance, leaving
a 3" opening at the bottom. Clip the
corners.

STEP 3: Turn the pocket right side out and push out the corners of the pocket with an item
like a chopstick. (Don't use something too sharp or you will poke a hole through the
fabric.) Press the pocket flat, folding in the raw edges of the opening. Topstitch along
the fold, which will be the top of your pocket.

87
Participant Handbook

STEP 4: Place the pocket on the centre of the STEP 5: Using a double fold hem (folding fabric
apron approximately 12" from the in 1/2", pressing, then folding 1/2"
top. Stitch the sides and bottom of the again and pressing for a 1" hem), pin
pocket to the apron. and stitch the sides and bottom of the
(Placement of the pocket may vary). apron.

STEP 6: Using a double fold hem (folding fabric STEP 7: Fold down 1/4" along top and press.
in 5/16", pressing, then folding 5/16" Fold 1" again and press. Stitch facing
again and pressing for a 5/8" hem), pin down.
and stitch the curved side of the apron.

STEP 8: Using a double fold hem (folding fabric STEP 9: Fold down 1/4" along top and press.
in 5/16", pressing, then folding 5/16" Fold 1" again and press. Stitch facing
again and pressing for a 5/8" hem), pin down.
and stitch the curved side of the apron.

88
Participant Handbook

UNIT 3.2: Stitching

Unit Objectives
At the end of this unit, you will be able to:
1. Recognize the different parts of a trouser and a shirt.
2. Stitch trouser and shirt.

3.2.1 Trouser Stitching

Parts of a trouser

Fig 3.2.1: Parts of a trouser

90
Self Employed Tailor

[Link] Preparation of Pocket Bag (front)

Step 2: Take both the lower facing

pieces and put overlock stitch
on the curved sides. Again,
make sure that the face side of
the pieces are on the top.
• Note the notch martks on
the lower facing pieces.
Step 1: Take both the upper facing pieces
• Note that the overlock
and put overlock stitch on the longer
straight sides. Make sure the face side stitch is on the curved
of the pieces is on top. side.

Step 3: Take both of the pocket bag pieces and

both upper facing pieces. Keep the
upper facing piece over the pocket bag Step 4: Put lockstitch at the edge of the
overlock stitch.
in such a way that the overlock part
is facing inside and the stitch is facing
upwards.

Step 5: Take both the lower facing pieces and Step 6: Put the lockstitch at the edge of the
keep them over the other side of the overlock curved stitch.
pocket bag.

91
Participant Handbook

[Link] Pocket Attaching (front)

Step 1: Take the two front pieces and keep Step 2: Take the pocket bag and place it over
them on the sewing Fig with the face the left front piece aligning with the
side up. mouth of the pocket.

Step 3: Put 6 mm stitch taking ¼ line on throat Step 4: Turn the piece and put 4 mm stitch at
plate as guide, starting from the top to the mouth of the pocket.
bottom.

Step 5: Match the lower facing and upper Step 6: Put 2 mm stitch starting from the
facing at thenotch marks. waistline to the outer side of the left
front piece.

92
Self Employed Tailor

Step 8: Take the other pocket bag and place it

over the right front piece aligning with
the pocket bag (face to face).

Step 9: Repeat steps 3-7 for the right hand side

pocket.

Step 7: Put 5 thread overlock stitches on the

curved portion of the pocket bag.

[Link] Pocket Attaching (Back)

Step 1: Take a note of the notch marks and the

pocket marking on the back piece.

Step 2: Fold the fabric at the centre notch mark

and make a dart by starting to stitch on
the notch mark till the centre marking.

Step 3: Take one of the back pocket bags. Place

it belowthe back piece in such a way
that the top end of the back piece and
the pocket bag are perfectly aligned.
Make sure that pocket bag is aligned
centrally to the dart.
Step 4: Take one of the fused bone pieces
and place it over the pocket markings
in such a way that the top marks are
visible and the bottom marks are
covered by the bone pieces and are at
equal distance from both sides.

93
Participant Handbook

Step 5: Now put a 6 mm stitch starting from Step 6: Take the second fused bone piece and
back rise side towards the side seam place it next to the stitched bone piece
side. The first stitch should be at the on the waist side.
notch mark side. Put back tack, both
at the beginning and end of the stitch.

Step 7: Put 6 mm stitch starting from the side- Step 8: Cut the fabric between the two bones
seam side towards the back rise side. leaving 10–12 mm on both sides.

Step 10: Cut the fabric between the two bones

leaving 10–12 mm on both sides.

Step 9: Put 6 mm stitch starting from the side-

seam side towards the back rise side.

94
Self Employed Tailor

Step 11: Put a stitch on the edge of the folded Step 12: Repeat steps 10 and 11 for the other
portion next to the stitched portion. bone.

Step 13: Push the balance fabric inside. Step 14: Put a stitch at the end of the cut
portion.

Step 15: Put overlock stitch at the loose end of the bottom bone piece.

Step 16: Attach bone piece with the pocket bag Step 17: Put overlock stitch on the back pocket
using lockstitch. facing.

95
Participant Handbook

Step 18: Take the other piece of the pocket bag. Step 19: Put a lockstitch over the overlock
Place the back pocket facing on top portion.
of the pocket bag at a distance of 2½
inches from top of the pocket bag.

Step 20: Take the fi rst pocket bag, which is Step 21: Now put a stitch at the inner side to
already sewn to the back piece. Place join the two pocket bags together.
the other pocket bag over it. Both the
bags should match perfectly.

Step 22: Put 5-thread overlock stitches starting Step 23: Put 3 mm lockstitch at the waistline,
from right (back rise side) to the left starting from the left towards the
side. right, to stitch the loose top end of
the pocket bag with the fabric.

96
Self Employed Tailor

[Link] Fly Making and Attaching

Step 1: Take the fused J-fly piece and put Step 2: Take the fl y supportive part. Fold it
overlock stitch on the face side of the into two equal parts and put over lock
fabric starting from bottom of the stitch on the long open side and one on
curved side till the top. the short open sides.

Step 3: Take the fused J-fly piece and put Step 4: Take the left front piece and place the
overlock stitch on the face side of the J-fl y piece over the left front piece.
fabric starting from bottom of the Align the straight end of the J-fl y with
curved side till the top. the front rise along with the backside
of the J-fl y facing up.

Step 5: Put a 6 mm lockstitch starting from the Step 6: Turn the J-fl y piece and put an edge
bottom to the top (waist line). stitch on top of the fl y from bottom to
top. Make sure that the raw edges are
facing towards the fly.

97
Participant Handbook

[Link] Zipper Attaching

Step 1: Take the zipper, open it and bring the Step 2: Place the zipper with slider facing
slider down. down over the fly piece at 8 mm from
the straight edge at the top and 6 mm
at the bottom. Align the bottom edge
ofthe zipper with the curved portion of
the fly piece.

Step 3: Put an edge stitch on the left side of Step 5: Now put a 4 mm stitch starting from
the zipper from top to bottom. bottom to top.
Step 4: Close the zipper and turn the piece
180o clockwise.

Step 6: Take the fl y supportive part. Place the

zipper with slider facing up on the fly
supportive part. Properly align the Step 7: Turn the fabric and put edge stitch on
zipper end and the overlock side of the the zipper starting from bottom to top.
fly supportive part.

98
Self Employed Tailor

Step 8: Take the right front piece and place the Step 9: Put 6 mm stitch starting from bottom
front rise side over the zipper. Make to the top.
sure that the waistlines of both the left
and right front pieces match.

Step 10: Turn the stitched panels and bring the Step 11: Leave a gap of 1 mm between the
face side up. zipper teeth and the edge of the fabric
and put top-stitch.

Step 12: Open the zipper. Step 13: Turn the left side front piece from the
zipper side at the point of stitch.

99
Participant Handbook

Step 14: Place the ready pattern of J-fly over the Step 15: Put lockstitch along the ready pattern
left front piece on the front rise side. starting from top to the bottom.

Step 16: Close the zipper and complete the Step 17: Put a top-stitch on the edge of the fi
J-stitch along the J-pattern. nished J-piece starting from bottom to
top.

Step 19: Turn the piece so that the front side

of the fabric is facing up. Put an edge
stitch on front rise starting from
Step 18: Reverse the fabric and put 6 mm stitch bottom till the end of J-stitch.
on the curved portion of the front rise.

100
Self Employed Tailor

[Link] Back Rise Attaching

Step 1: Take both the left and right back pieces. Step 2: Put 1 cm stitch at the back rise starting
Match them face-to-face. from top to bottom with back tack at
both the top and bottom.

Step 3: Now put overlock stitches at the back Step 4: Turn the raw edges towards the left
rise starting from top to bottom. side and put top-stitch at the edge of
the back rise.

[Link] Front and Back Piece Attaching

Step 2: Put 1 cm stitch throughout the right

Step 1: Place front and back pieces in such a side starting from top to bottom.
way that the face sides of both pieces
face each other.

101
Participant Handbook

Step 3: Turn the raw edges towards the back. Step 4: Align the back and front rise seams and
Put topstitches at the edge starting the open sides of the front and back.
from top to bottom for the right side
and bottom to top for the left side.

Step 5: Put 5-thread overlock stitches starting from bottom to finish at other
bottom side.

[Link] Belt Loop Making

Step 1: Take a long strap, 2.5 Step 2: Turn the raw edges Step 3: Start sewing and feeding
mm wide, of the fabric towards the left side and the fabric properly.
used in body. put top-stitch at the edge
of the back rise.

102
Self Employed Tailor

Step 4: Put the marking on the strap for the Step 5: Cut the strap of desired leangth.
required length.

[Link] Belt Loop Attaching

Step 1: Mark the positions on the waistline Step 2: Place the belt piece, with the folded
where the loops are to be attached. side up on the backside of the right
front. Belt band should be extended
by ½ inch.

Step 3: • Put a lockstitch adjacent to the folded part of the belt

piece.
• Place the loop with the side facing the fabric and continue
to stitch till the end by placing other loops at required
positions.

103
Participant Handbook

Step 4: Turn the belt piece in such a way that Step 5: • Stitch the open vertical end on
the fused side is up. both sides starting with back tack.
• Now again turn the belt piece so
that the face side is facing up.

Step 6: Now put edge stitches throughout the Step 7: Finally put edge stitches throughout
length of the belt on the bottom side. the top side of the belt and stitch the
loops at appropriate positions.

[Link] Bottom Hemming

Step 1: Fold the fabric as per the design Step 2: Start putting the edge stitch from the
requirement. inseam and fi nish at inseam. Repeat
steps 1 and 2 for the other leg.

104
Self Employed Tailor

[Link] Bottom Hemming Using Folder

Step 1: Fold the bottom of right trouser leg 1 cm [Link] fold the fabric to the required width and put 2 or 3 stitches.

Step 2: Place the attachment in such a way that the folded portion is fi tted into the groove of the folder and then start stitching.
Feed the fabric properly.

Step 3: Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the other leg.

[Link] Button Holing [Link] Button Attaching

Step 1: Make the buttonhole on the left hand Step 1: Sew the button on the right hand side
side belt as per design requirement. belt as per the design requirement
Make another buttonhole on the back and sew one button at the back
pocket. pocket.

[Link] Bartacking

Step 1: Put bartack as per design Step 2: Put the bartack at the end of the J-fly
requirement. Normally bartacks are and at the curve of the J-fly.
put at both ends of left and right front
pocket mouth and at the end of the
front and back pocket joints.

Step 3: Put the bartack at the joining of front

and back rise.

105
Participant Handbook

Step 4: Put the bartack at the top and bottom Step 5: Put the bartack at both ends of the
of each belt loop. back pocket.

3.2.2 A Traditional Shirt

Parts of a Shirt

Fig 3.2.2: Parts of a Traditional Shirt

106
Self Employed Tailor

[Link] Left Hand Side Placket

Step 1: Take the fused left hand side placket. Step 2: Locate the two notch marks. There is
one at 2.3 cm and the other at 5.5 cm
from the edge.

Step 3: Now, fold the fabric 2.3 cm till the first Step 4: Now, fold the fabric 4 cm to the
notch mark and press the folded part second notch mark. Th e placket
with an iron. should be 4 cm wide.

Step 5: Now, crease the folded part again Step 6: Start from the bottom and stitch the
with an iron. inner side of the placket using edge
stitch.

107
Participant Handbook

Step 7: Again from the bottom, stitch the Step 8: Identify the reference mark on the
outer side of the placket using edge throat plate and put a 4 mm stitch on
stitch. the outer side of the placket from the
bottom.

Step 9: Put a 4 mm stitch on the inner side of

the placket from the top.

[Link] Right Hand Side Placket

Step 2: Fold the fabric 1cm towards the notch

mark or the neck, on the back of the
fabric.

Step 3: Crease folded part.

Step 1: Identify the notch marks on the back

side of the fabric.

108
Self Employed Tailor

Step 4: Now, fold the fabric 2.5 cm till the Step 5: Crease the fold with an iron again like
second notch mark. in Step 3.

Step 6: Start from the top and stitch the inner

side of the placket using an edge
stitch.

[Link] Pocket Making and Stitching

Step 1: Take the fused pocket piece. Step 2: Locate the notch marks.

109
Participant Handbook

Step 3: Now, fold the top part of the fabric Step 4: • Now, fold the fabric 2.5 cm to
1cm till the first notch mark and press the second notch mark.
the folded part with an iron.
• Now, crease the folded part
again with an iron.

Step 5: Stitch the inner side of the pocket Step 6: Take the ready pattern given and
mouth using edge stitch. place it over thepocket.

Step 7: Now, fold the three sides 1 cm each and crease them as you fold.

110
Self Employed Tailor

Step 8: The pocket is now ready to be attached.

[Link] Attaching the Pocket

Step 1: Place the pocket piece on the left half Step 2: Match the right side of the pocket
of the shirt front. with the markings on the front of the
fabric.

Step 3: Sew the pocket from the placket side. Step 4: Now, sew till the top using 4 mm
Put 4 stitchesfollowed by a back tack. stitch.

111
Participant Handbook

Step 5: • Turn the fabric in a clockwise Step 6: • Again, turn the fabric clockwise.
direction. Keep the needle in the
fabric.
• Put the stitch at the edge till the
end.
• Stitch at the edge of the pocket
till the end.

Step 7: • Again, turn the fabric clockwise. Step 8: • Again, turn the fabric clockwise
Stitch the edge ofthe bottom and stitch up to 4 mm.
part of the pocket.
• Turn the fabric. Stitch up to the
• Step 10: Turn the fabric clockwise pocket mouth and put a back
and stitch the edge of the other tack.
side of the pocket.

Step 9: Now, the pocket is fully attached.

112
Self Employed Tailor

[Link] Attaching Yoke

Step 2: Keep one piece of the yoke on the

sewing Fig.
Step 1: First, check for the following notches:
• One notch at the centre of the
back piece of the shirt.
• 4 notches in the yoke piece:
»» One at the centre of the
reverse side of the yoke
piece.
»» One at the centre of the
neckline.
»» One at the centre of the left
armhole.
»» One at the centre of the
right armhole. Step 3: Place the back piece of the shirt on
top of the yoke in alignment with the
two notches.

Step 4: The right side of the inner yoke piece Step 5: The alignment should be such that
should face the reverse side of the the right side of the outer yoke piece
back piece of the shirt. Take the other faces the right side of the back piece
yoke piece and place it on top of the of the shirt.
back piece of the shirt and align with
the notch.

113
Participant Handbook

Step 6: Put a stitch of 1cm on the edge of the Step 7: Turn the yoke and crease it with your
3 pieces—2 yoke pieces and the back fi ngers.
piece of the shirt.

Step 8: Now, put a top-stitch at the edge first. Step 9: Finally, put a 4 mm stitch from the
edge.

[Link] Attaching Yoke to the Front

Step 1: Keep the front side of the back piece Step 2: The alignment should be such that
of the shirt on the top. the right side of the outer yoke piece
faces the right side of the back piece
of the shirt.

114
Self Employed Tailor

Step 3: The pieces are stitched at a distance Step 4: • The right side of the front and
of 1 cm from the edge leaving the the right side of the back piece of
bottom-most ply of the yoke. the shirt are placed together by
matching the yoke. The placket
should be towards the centre.
• Repeat Step 3 for right side.

Step 5: Hold the edge of the yoke from the

armhole side in one hand and the
unstitched yoke piece in the other hand.
Step 6: Turn and match the unstitched yoke
piece to the stitched yoke piece.

Step 7: Roll the body fabrics and insert it Step 8: Put a 1 cm stitch throughout.
between the two yoke pieces.

115
Participant Handbook

Step 10: Put a top-stitch at the edge on both

sides.

Step 9: Hold the front and the back pieces and

stretch them.

Step 11: Finally, put a 4 mm stitch on both sides.

[Link] Upper Sleeve Placket Preparation

Step 1: Take the two sleeve pieces and identify Step 2: Look at the reverse side of the sleeve
the notch marks on the armhole side and ensure that there is a cut of 13
in each one of them. cms or 5 inches at the bottom.

116
Self Employed Tailor

Step 3: Keep the two sleeve plackets with Step 4: Take the ready pattern. Leave a gap of
their straight sides facing each other. 1 cm and place it over the longer side
of the placket.

Step 5: Use the pattern and fold the longer Step 6: Again, using the pattern, fold the
side of theplacket 1 cm and iron it. longer side 3.5 cm and iron it.

Step 7: Use the pattern and fold the upper

portion of the placket in a V-shape.
Iron it well to form crease.

Step 8: Use the pattern and fold the upper

portion of the placket in a V-shape.
Iron it well to form crease.

117
Participant Handbook

[Link] Lower Sleeve Placket Preparation

Step 1: Keep both the lower sleeve plackets Step 2: Place the ready pattern on the placket.
on the Fig.
They are unfused and shorten in
length than upper sleeve plackets.

Step 3: USe the pattern and fold 1 cm. Use the iron to crease Step 4: Again, use the pattern and fold 2 cm.
it. Use the ironto crease it.

Step 5: Remove the ready pattern. Step 6: Repeat Steps 2 to 5 for the other
placket.

118
Self Employed Tailor

[Link] Attaching Plackets to the Sleeve

Step 1: Place the two sleeves on top of each Step 2: Take the two upper sleeve plackets
other and align the cut sides. and place them on the longer cut side
of the [Link] that the folded
side is on top.

Step 3: Take a set of sleeve placket and sleeve. Step 4: Stitch the placket edge. Take the other
Align the edges of the sleeve placket set of sleeve and sleeve placket. Stitch
with the longer cut part of the sleeve. the placket edge.

Step 5: Turn the fabric such that the cut part Step 6: Now, place the lower placket on the
of it faces you. shorter cut part of the fabric and stitch
the edge along the length. Repeat Step
3 and Step 6 for the other set of sleeve
plackets and sleeves.

119
Participant Handbook

Step 7: Make two v-shape cuts on the top part Step 8: • Smoothen the lower placket and
of the placket-stitch. turn it to the reverse side.
• Stitch the edged side of the lower
placket till the end.
• Turn the v-shaped cut to the
upper side.

Step 9: Place the placket on top of the Step 10: Hold the placket and the cut, together
v-shaped cut. and put a stitch at the bottom of the
cut.

Step 11: • Turn the upper placket over and

put an edged stitch till the end.
• Turn the fabric clockwise. Align
the upper and lower plackets.
Step 12: Stitch till the end of the plackets.

120
Self Employed Tailor

Step 13: • Turn the fabric counter-clockwise.

Put an edgestitch on all the edges
of the box of the placket.
• Repeat Step 9 to Steps 7-13 for
the other sleeve plackets.

[Link] Attaching the Sleeve

Step 1: Take the sleeve piece. Ensure the Step 2: Match the left front piece with the
armhole faces you. Also, the longer armhole. Placethe shirt front above
cut edge should be on the right hand and the sleeve piece below.
side. The sleeve should be attached to
the left hand side armhole.

Step 4: Take the right sleeve and place it on the machine.

Step 3: Attach the left front with the left Ensure that the longer cut portion is to the left and
sleeve with a 1 cm stitch. facing away from you.

121
Participant Handbook

Step 6: Put an over-lock stitch at both the armholes. If

top-stitch is required on the armhole, the sleeve
Step 5: Match the notch marks and attach the should be kept up and the body part of the shirt
sleeve armhole with the body armhole should be kept down while putting the over-lock
by putting a 1 cm stitch. stitch. In case top-stitch is not required, the body
part of the shirt should be kept up and the sleeve
down.

Step 7: • While putting top-stitch, keep the margin towards the body. Put an edge stitch followed by a
4 mm top-stitch.
• Repeat the above steps for the other sleeve piece.

[Link] Side Seam

Step 1: Match the armhole and align the Step 2: Take the right hand sleeve. Stitch 1 cm
loose ends. from thesleeve bottom and continue
till side bottom.

122
Self Employed Tailor

Step 3: Take the left hand sleeve. Stitch 1 cm

from the sidebottom up to the sleeve
bottom.

• Turn the fabric margin towards back side and sew the top-
stitch by first sewing edge stitch and then 4 mm stitches on
Step 4: • Put the overlock stitch on both
sides, keeping the front part on
both the sides. the top.

[Link] Collar and Neckband Preparation

Step 1: Take the fused neckband piece. Turn Step 2: Turn the fusing side down. Put a 4 mm
the bottomend of the piece with your stitch at the top.
hand.

Step 4: Take the fused collar piece and place

Step 3: Fold the neckband and cut a notch at it on the collar piece that is not fused.
the centre of the upper side. The right side of the fused collar
should face the right side of the
unfused collar.

123
Participant Handbook

Step 5: Start stitching at a gap of 1 mm from Step 6: Stop the sewing machine one stitch
the fusing material from the collar before the collar point with the needle
base side. down. Insert an extra thread between
the two fabric layers touching the
needle.

Step 7: • Put one stitch and stop the Step 8: Now, put stitches at a distance of 1
sewing machine with the needle mm from the fused material.
down. The thread will be at the
back of the needle side.
• Hold both ends of the thread and
bring it towards the other side of
the collar.
• Put stitches at a distance of 1mm
from the fused material on the
remaining collar.
• Repeat steps 6, 7, 8, and 9.

Step 9: • Put back tack stitch at both the Step 10: Put a 4 mm stitch on all three sides
ends. of the collar. Keep the lower fabric
stretched to avoid wrinkles.
• Cut both the collar points and
turn the collar.
• Stretch the threads to give
proper shape to the collar.

124
Self Employed Tailor

Step 11: Put a 2 mm stitch on the open side of Step 12: Put edge stitch on the three sides of
the collar. the collar.

Step 13: Fold the collar and put a notch mark at the centre.

[Link] Collar and Neckband Attachment

Step 1: Place the neckband and collar face to Step 2: Align the notch and the band of the
face. collar.

125
Participant Handbook

Step 3: Start stitching from the notch point Step 4: Take the other neckband piece
leaving a gap of 1 mm. Repeat this without fusing. Place it below the
stitch from the notch point to both ready neckband collar piece.
ends.

Step 5: Now, start stitching from the neckband Step 6: Turn the neckband piece.
bottom portion, till the other end.

Step 7: Fold the piece and put a notch at

the centre. The folded part is now
refolded and another notch is put.

[Link] Collar Attachment to Body

Step 1: Match the three notches on the neckband Step 2: Keep the left hand side with face up on the
with the two shoulder seams of the body Fig. Match the edge of the front placket
and the centre notch. with the edge of the collar band.

126
Self Employed Tailor

Step 3: Put the stitch just below the fused Step 4: Starting from the neckband’s centre,
portion of the band till the end. put edge stitch towards the right side.

Step 5: Turn and continue to put edge stitch

till the other end.

[Link] Cuff Preparation

Step 1: Fold the fabric edges on the straight Step 2: Put a 4 mm top-stitch.
side of the cuff and iron it.

Step 3: Take the unfused piece of the cuff and Step 4: Stitch the two curved and one straight
place it below the fused cuff . side by leaving a 1 mm gap.

127
Participant Handbook

Step 5: Turn the cuff . Step 6: The unfused cuff fabric should be 1
mm extra.

[Link] Cuff Attachment to Sleeve

Step 1: First, check that there are 4 notches Step 2: Make sleeve pleats by overlapping the
for sleeve pleatsand one notch at the notches and stitching it in such a way
centre of sleeve bottom. that the pleats remain open from the
edges.

Step 3: • Place the cuff with fused side up Step 4: Straighten the cuff . Put the excess
on the inner side of the sleeve. fabric inside thecuff and put stitches
at the edge.
• Stitch just below the edge of the
cuff .

128
Self Employed Tailor

Step 5: Now put the edge stitch throughout Step 6: Now put 4 mm stitch throughout
the cuff. the cuff. Repeat Steps 1 to 7 for the
second cuff.

[Link] Bottom Hemming

Step 2: • Fold the bottom (as per

requirement) and put edge stitch
from the left front side to the
Step 1: Match the collar band tip to bottom. right side.
• Close the two ends.

[Link] Button-holing

Step 2: • Along the centre of the placket width,

mark the button holes at a distance of 9
cm from each other from the collar band
button hole.
• In case of cuff , mark button hole at the
Step 1: • Take the left hand side placket. centre of the cuff on upper placket side.
• Make one button hole on collar • Make button holes using buttonhole
band parallel to theband at the machine. Themarking should come in
centre and about 1 cm from the the middle of the buttonhole.
edge.

129
Participant Handbook

[Link] Button Attaching

Step 1: Keep the left hand and right hand Step 2: Put a mark at the centre of the button-
plackets on top of each other. They hole using a chalk.
should be properly aligned.

Step 4: Repeat the same procedure for the

Step 3: Attach buttons at the marked positions cuff.
using the button sew machine.

3.2.3 Stitching a Saree Blouse

Measurements needed
• Chest
• Full length of the blouse
• Shoulder
• Sleeve length
• Sleeve round
• Front length-Measured from shoulder along the highest point of bust to where bra cup ends.

130
Self Employed Tailor

Fig 3.2.3(a): Drafting of a saree blouse Fig 3.2.3(b): Drafting of a saree blouse

Process
• Front A to B= front length + ½”.
• A to C = ½ shoulder + ¼”.
• On the line A-B mark D such that A-D =¼ chest -1¼” or 1½”.
A-D is called scye depth. It varies with chest measurement. It can be calculated using the chest measurement. It
can also be measured directly on the body. It is measured from the nape of the neck downwards to a line that
joins armpits.
Scye depth for various breast measurements:
• 28” to 30” =¼ chest-¾’ to 1”
• 31” to 33” =¼ chest-1” to 1¼”
• 34” to 36” = ¼ chest-1½” to 2”
• 37 “ to 39” = ¼ chest- 2¼” to 2¾”
• 40 to 42 = ¼ chest-3” to 3½”
• Draw perpendicular lines from the points D and B to the line A-B.
• On the line A-C mark G such that A-G =the neck width = 1/8th chest or to taste.
• Mark H on A-B such that A-H =neck depth =1/8th chest or to taste.
• Shape front neck curve H-G.
• Mark D-E=¼ chest +1 +1/2".
• Mark F such that B-F = D-E.
• Produce D-E to K such that E-K=. ½”.
• Mark L on B-F such that L-F =½’ Join K-L.
• On the line D-E mark point I such that D-I = ½” less than A-C. Join I-C .
• On the line I-C mark point R such that C-R =½” or ¾”.
• Join G-R. On the line I-C mark a point J such that I-J =1”.
• Shape the scye round R-J-E-K.

131
Participant Handbook

• On the line D-E mark a point S such that D-S =1/12th chest +¾”.
• On the line A-B mark point M such that B-M =1”.
• Join M-L by a curved line as shown in the figure.
• Drop a perpendicular from the point S.
• This line meets the curved line M-L at P. On this line Mark point T which is the bust point It can be marked in
two ways:
1. Mark T such that distance S-T=1/8th chest-1½”.
2. Actual bust length is measured from the shoulder line to the highest point of the bust. Mark T along the
line U-T passing through S such that U-T is equal to is the bust length.
Darts:
• All the darts should point towards the bust point T and end 1/2" away from T.
• Mark N on the line A-B such that D-N =S-T. Take ½” or ¾” dart
• At point P a dart of 1¼” to 2” dart of required length is taken
• On the line K-L mark a point O such that O-L = 1” take a dart of ¾” wide and of required length.
• At the point J take a dart of ½” wide of required length.
Belt:
• U-V= Full length of the blouse –Front length +½”.
• V-W =B to F -1½”( size of the dart taken).
• W –X =U-V -1”.
• Shape the curve U-X identical to the curve M-L.
• Y-W= ½”.
• Join X-Y.
Back:
• A-B =Full length of the blouse +1”
• A-D is scye depth = same as scye depth of front the blouse.

Fig 3.2.4: Back and sleeve of a saree blouse

132
Self Employed Tailor

• Draw perpendiculars from A,D and B.

• A-C= ½ shoulder + ¼”. Mark D-E=¼ chest +1½”.
• Mark F such that B-F = D-E.
• I- F=½” .Join E-I.
• On the line A-C mark G such that A-G =the neck width = 1/8th chest or to taste.
• Mark K on A-B such that A-K = Back neck depth =1/12th chest or to taste.
• Shape back neck curve K-G.
• On the line D-E mark H such that D-H = A-C.
• Join H-C. On the line H-C mark a point R such that C-R =1”.
• Shape the Back scye round R-E. B-L=1/12th chest +½”.
A dart L-M of ½” width and of required length is taken here.
• Sleeves A-B= sleeve length + ½”.
• K-A =1"for folding.
• From the points B , A and K draw perpendiculars.
• B -C is as A-D = scye depth of the body taken while drawing body draft + ½" to 1½ “.
• For smaller sizes B-C is equal to the scye depth .
• B-C =K-L.
• Join C-L.
• Mark D on the line C-L such that D-C =1/8th chest -½”. It should be between 3 to 3½” B-J = 1”.
• Join D-B .F is the middle point of D=B . F-H =¾” G is the middle point of D-F. I-G= ½”
• Shape the front scye curve of the sleeves D-I-F- J-B and Back scye curve of the sleeves D-H-J-B. A-E = ½ sleeve
round + 1" for seams.
• Join L-E.
Parts of a blouse:

Fig 3.2.5: Parts of a saree blouse

133
Participant Handbook

• Prepare the draft and separate each part.

• Label all pattern pieces.
• Mark "place on fold" on the center-line of the back.
• Add 1/2" extension along the line of opening of the front to attach button-stands.(shown by shaded area)
• Mark the center of sleeve top.
• Place the parts of the draft on the fabric and cut the parts
Stitching:
• Step 1 Stay stitch neck, arm scyes and sleeve top.
• Step 2 Stitch darts.
• Step 3 Attach the belt to the body.
• Step 4 Stitch button stands. Right side should overlap the left side. Extension is stitched to the left side and
right side is finished with a facing.
• Step 5 Join shoulders.
• Step 6 Finish neck line with Piping or flat facing.
• Step 7 Hem the lower edge of the sleeves and back.
• Step 8 Attach sleeves to the body, matching center line of the sleeves to the shoulder line and easing
wherever necessary.
• Step 9 Stitch sides of the sleeves and body.
• Step 10 Sew hook on the underside of right button stand and work eyes on the right side of left front facing.

3.2.4 Stitching a Kurta/Kameez

STEP 1: Take 2 Pieces of Kameez (Front and Back) 2 Pieces of

Sleeve (Right and Left) and 2 rectangular pieces for
Neck facing.

134
Self Employed Tailor

STEP 2: Place the neck facing rectangular pieces for the front and back Kameez pieces respectively.
Make sure that the right sides are together. Pin and sew along the neck line with ¼” seam
allowance. Cut the excess of facing pieces and make notches on seam. Then turn right sides
out and press. Give topstitch at neckline.

STEP 4: Fold the hemline of sleeve by ¼” inside

and fold again ¾” inside and sew along the
hemline at the edge of first folding.

STEP 3: Place Kameez front and back pieces by

facing right sides together and sew along the
shoulder line to joint the two Kameez pieces
together.

135
Participant Handbook

STEP 5: Place the Sleeves right side on the top of STEP 6: Turn Kameez wrong side out and sew along with 1”
Kameez armhole area respectively. Pin it and side seam allowance as right sides together (Start from
sew along with ¼” armhole seam allowance. Sleeve’s hemline and stop at the Hip line of Kameez).

STEP 7: Fold at the slit opening ¼” inside and fold ¼” STEP 8: Fold the hemline ½” inside and fold 1” again. Then sew
again. Then sew along the slit opening of both along the edge of first fold on hemline.
sides. Press with iron.

136
Self Employed Tailor

3.2.5 Stitching Button and Button Holes

Buttons: The various types of buttons available in the market differ
in that they have different number of holes – 2 or 4. The method for
fixing them remains the same. The spot where the button needs to
be fixed is determined and then the needle is taken out first from
one and then the other to properly fix the button. There should
be a little looseness in the stitch so that the button can be easily
passed through the button hole.

Fig 3.2.6: Button attaching

Button hole
Of utmost importance in the tailoring trade, as it is used on almost all types of garments – ladies, men’s and
children. There is a need to keep an opening somewhere on the garment for ease of wearing and taking off.
Most of such openings are closed with the help of buttonhole stitches. The button hole is always made on the
top portion. The buttonhole stitch is used to finish the button hole. It is made on two or more layers of cloth. The
button hole has a slight curve on one side known as the fan and an edge on the other known as the bar.

Fig 3.2.7: Button hole making by machine Fig 3.2.8: Button hole making by hand

Method: First choose the distance between each button hole. Then keeping the diameter of the button in mind,
use the tip of a scissor to cut holes in the cloth. To ensure that no, loose strands come out finish the edge with a
temporary stitch. Always cut the button hole in the direction of the grain line. Then using a single thread finish
the edge with a buttonhole stitch keeping a little extra tension on the ‘fan’ side to make a kind of chain stitch is
then pressed down once the buttonhole is finished.
Hook and eye
An opening can be closed with other methods apart from a button
and buttonhole. One of these is the hook and eye. There are hooks
of different sizes available to suit different purposes and garments
like trousers or blouses. The hook is usually fixed half a point behind
the edge of the belt. This is fixed using the buttonhole stitch. It is
fixed from two edges below and one point above like a bow. The
simple hooks are best used with an eye made from thread by hand,
using a button hole stitch. The big hooks used for trousers usually
come with a ready made eye of metal which is also affixed using a
buttonhole stitch.
Fig 3.2.9: Attaching hook and eye

137
Participant Handbook

Press buttons: These are metal buttons with one part having a hole
and the other a nail to fit into the hole. The nail part is always put
on the top and the one with the depression on the bottom. This is
also affixed using the button hole stitch.

Fig 3.2.10: Press button

Industry Visit
The purpose of visiting a tailor shop/boutique is to get hands on knowledge about various processes involved in
the work of a tailor. During the visit you have to interact with Tailors and owner of the shop to understand how
work is done in a tailor shop/boutique. Make sure that you keep a notebook handy and note down any important
points that come up during your interaction at the tailor shop/boutique. When you go to an tailor shop/boutique,
you should:
• Recognize the different parts of a trouser.
• Analyze how an Tailor makes and attaches the pocket bag, fly, zip, back rise and front and back pieces to
trouser.
• Also observe how he makes and attaches the belt loop, bottom hemming and button and button holes to a
trouser.
• Recognize the different parts of a shirt.
• Analyze how an Tailor makes and attaches the left and right hand side placket, pocket, yoke, placket to sleeve,
sleeve, side seam, collar and neckband, cuff and bottom hemming etc.
• Also observe how he makes button holes and attaches the buttons to shirt.
• Similarly observe other stitching operations like button hole making and attaching in different garment such
as saree blouse, kurta etc.
• Ask questions to Tailors/shop owners if you have any query.

138
Participant Handbook

UNIT 3.3: Knowledge of Basic Embroidery Stitches

Unit Objectives
At the end of this unit, you will be able to:
1. Understand flat stitches, loop stitches and knotted stitches
2. Carry out flat stitches, loop stitches and knotted stitches

3.3.1 Flat Stitches

Flat stitches are simple embroidery stitches in which individual stitches are made without crossing or looping the
thread. These stitches are used to form broken or unbroken lines or starbursts, fill shapes and create geometric
designs.
Commonly used types of Flat Stitches and their techniques are given below:
• Running Stitch
• Back Stitch
• Stem Stitch
• Satin Stitch
• Kashmiri Stitch
• Couching Stitch
• Cross Stitch
• Herringbone Stitch

3.3.2 Steps of Carrying out Running Stitch

This stitch can be worked in straight or curved lines, or for assembly when finishing an embroidery project. The
stitch is worked by passing the needle in and out of the fabric. Running stitches may be of varying length, but
typically more thread is visible on the top of the sewing than on the underside.
• Step 1: Work from right to left of the fabric and insert your
needle through the back side of the fabric at your starting point
• Step 2: Bring thread up at 1 then down at 2, up at 3 and down
at 4 and continue
• Step 3: The spaces between the stitches can be the same
length as the stitches or shorter for a different look.

140
Self Employed Tailor

3.3.3 Steps of Carrying out Back Stitch

The back stitch is a basic embroidery and sewing stitch used to produce a thin line of stitching, to outline shapes
that will be filled with satin stitch, or to stitch fabric pieces together.

Step 1: Bring the thread through A and take it in Step 2: Bring the thread through C and take it
through B. This creates one stitch in through B. This way, we are creating a
stitch by taking the thread backward

Step 3: Bring the thread through D and

take it in through C. Continue this
pattern to finish the design

3.3.4 Steps of Carrying out Stem Stitch

Stem stitch, and its variations, are worked as a thin line and can be used to outline embroidered shapes, stitch
lines and curves, embroider letters. This stitch creates a rope like appearance

Step 1: Bring out the thread through A and take Step 2: Note that the point C lies about half way
it in through B. Take the needle backwards through A and B. Also note that C lies on
and bring the thread out through C. Make top of the stitch A-B. So, all the subsequent
sure the point C lies over the stitch A-B stitch points will lie on top their previous stitch.

141
Participant Handbook

Step 3: Take the needle in through D. Try to mark Step 4: The pattern of two stitches of the stem
D in such a way that the point B will lie half stitch will be as shown in figure
way through C-D. Bring the needle out through B

Step 5: Continue this pattern of stitching

with the needle coming out through
the top of the previous stitch always

3.3.5 Steps of Carrying out Satin Stitch

This stitch is primarily used for Solid filling for shapes and monogram. Often, a satin stitch is outlined using one of
the straight stitches like, the split stitch, the outline stitch, back stitch, chain stitch, or any other similar stitches.
This helps in containing the satin stitch within the parameters of the pattern/design easily.

Step 1: Bring the needle out through A and Step 2: Bring the needle back through C, a point
put it in through B. So, that makes a very close to A. Continue this action over
stitch which covers a small area the two stitch lines
between the stitch lines

142
Self Employed Tailor

Step 3: Once finished, the area is filled as in

figure. Almost same amount of thread
will be spent on the reverse side as on
the actual side of the fabric

3.3.6 Steps of Carrying out Couching Stitch

This stitch is usually used to make outlines, or layers of this stitch can be made to fill in patterns. This stitch
involves two threads: a thicker foundation thread, (also called the laid thread) and a thinner thread (called the
couching thread).

Step 1: Start by bringing out a thread (brown Step 2: Keep the laid thread over the stitch line.
in the figure) for laying from one end of Use the other thread to fasten the laid
the stitch line. Keep it open. Now, bring thread down using a small stitch.
another thread (red in the figure) out,
a little outside the stitch line, and away
from the other thread.

Step 3: After fastening, the stitch will look like Step 4: Bring the fastening thread out as a short
distance from the earlier stitch. Lay the
as in the figure.
open thread over the stitch line, and
again fasten it down with a small stitch.

143
Participant Handbook

Step 5: Continue with this method for the Step 6: A finished couched line will look like this.
entire stitch line. To finish up, pass the
laid thread through the fabric and knot
it. Make sure the fastening thread is
brought out at regular intervals to make
it look elegant.

3.3.7 Steps of Carrying out Cross Stitch

This stitch is used for borders and filling if worked in adjacent rows.

Step 1: Bring the needle out through A and Step 2: Now put the needle in through D, which
take it diagonally across to B. Bring it lies vertically above B. You have made a
back again through C, which lies single cross
vertically below A

Step 3: Continue by putting the needle in through Step 4: Put the needle in through F to complete
the second cross. Now, bring the needle
Eand bring it out through the previous point D
out through the previous point E to begin
for the third cross. Continue this process

144
Self Employed Tailor

Step 5: A row of cross stitch would appear like this.

The same technique is followed for a vertical row

3.3.8 Steps of Carrying out Herringbone Stitch

This type of stitch is used to create border, edging, can be stitched over a ribbon or braid to hold it down. It is ked
along parallel lines on an evenweave fabric

Step 1: Bring the needle out through the first stitch Step 2: Now, the same procedure will be worked on
line at A. Now, take the needle in throughB, first stitch line. Take the needle diagonally
which lies diagonally across A on the second across to D and bring the needle backwards
stitch line. Then, take the needle backwards out through E
out through C, which lies near B.

Step 3: Continue to make such crosses on both stitch Step 4: A finished sequence of herringbone stitch
lines alternately. Make sure the diagonal stitches would look like this
are parallel to each other to bring out the best look

145
Participant Handbook

3.3.9 Loop Stitches

Loop stitch gets its name from the long loops it leaves behind
Commonly used types of Loop Stitches and their techniques are given below:
• Chain stitch
• Button-hole stitch
• Blanket Stitch
• Fishbone stitch
• Feather stitch
• Fly Stitch

3.3.10 Steps of Carrying out Chain Stitch

The chain stitch is a looped stitch that can be worked along a curved or straight line. Variations of this stitch
including the single or detached chain, lazy daisy, feathered chain, square chain, cable chain, heavy chain, zig-
zag chain and many more. This stitch is commonly used for outlining, straight and curved lines, filling if rows are
stitched closely together

Step 1: Bring the thread out through A. Put the needle Step 2: Take the thread around the needle from
back in A and bring it out through the point B, left to right to form a loop
but don’t pull the needle out completely.

Step 3: Pull out the needle now to tighten the loop Step 4: Put the needle in through B (now inside the loop)
and you will get the first part of the chain. and bring it out on C (outside of the loop).

146
Self Employed Tailor

Step 5: Continue the action by taking the thread

around the back of the needle from left to
right to form a loop and pull out the needle
to get the next loop of the chain. Keep on
with this procedure to finish the design.

3.3.11 Steps of Carrying out Button Hole Stitch

This stitch is used to secure the edges of buttonholes as it gives a much sturdier stitch due to the knots it makes.

Step 1: Bring the needle out through A. Now, loop the Step 2: Pull out the needle towards the top. This
thread around from left to right. Take the creates a small knot near the point B. Do not
needle in through B and bring it out from C. pull the needle downwards as it will not give
Keep the thread below the needle always the desired results

Step 3: A finished portion of the buttonhole stitch

would look like as in figure

147
Participant Handbook

3.3.12 Steps of Carrying out Blanket Hole Stitch

This stitch is called blanket stitch as traditionally it is used to stitch the edges of blankets. It is used to create
straight and gently curved lines, borders and finishing edges

Step 1: Bring the needle out through A. Take the needle in Step 2: Pull out the needle. Continue with this process
through B. Take it out through C, a point in the till the end of the line
same stitch line as A. Loop the thread under the
needle

Step 3: A portion of the finished blanket stitch would

look like as in the figure

3.3.13 Steps of Carrying out Fishbone Stitch

This stitch is a type of filling stitch and is used for making leaves and feathers

Step 1: To begin with, bring the needle out through Step 2: Now, bring the needle out from a point very
point A, which is the top tip of line Y. Put it in close to A on the line X. Put it in through a point
through B, to make a single straight stitch. very close to B on line Y. Again pull out the
needle through a point very close to A on line Z.

148
Self Employed Tailor

Step 3: This procedure of putting in the needle Step 4: Make sure all the stitch points lie close to
through X and Z alternatively will follow. Each each other to avoid any visible spaces.
time you will be connecting X-Y and Y-Z.

Step 5: Half way through, the leaf design would look

like as in the image.

3.3.14 Steps of Carrying out Feather Stitch

Feather stitch is a decorative stitch, usually, used to accompany it with embellishments or other forms of stitches
like the French knot. It can be used to make borders, horizontal or vertical fillings, or designs with curves. It looks
like a series of interconnected ‘V’s.

Step 1: Bring the needle from B. Now, put the needle in Step 2: Continue to put the needle in through A
through D and bring it out from C. Note that the and bring it out through B. Pull the needle
points on B and D falls on a straight line, and C lies out with the thread under it as shown, to
diagonally to both B and D. Pull the needle out with make the next ‘V’
the thread under it, as shown. We would form our
first ‘V’

149
Participant Handbook

Step 3: Continue the procedure by putting the needle in Step 4: Once a small portion of feather stitch is done,
through the outer stitch line and brining it out the stitch will look like as in the figure
from the inner stitch line. Keep alternating
between left and right side to make the ‘V’s-
putting in the needle through A and bringing it out
from B; putting the needle in through D and
bringing it out from C.

3.3.15 Steps of Carrying out Fly Stitch

This stitch is done in rows for edging or singly for accents, plants and foliage, decorative lines, interesting filling

Step 1: Bring the needle out from A and put it in Step 2: To create the ‘Y’ shape, we need to make a tail.
through B. Then, bring it out through C, which Put in the needle a little space right below C.
lies between and below A and B. Pull the
needle out from over the working thread, as
shown in the picture. this creates a ‘V’ shape.

Step 3: The stand alone fly stitch would look like as in

the image

150
Self Employed Tailor

3.3.16 Knotted Stitches

A knotted stitch is any embroidery technique in which the yarn or thread is knotted around itself.
Knotted edgings are used as a decorative trims, and can also be used to fill open spaces in cutwork and in
needle-lace
Commonly used types of Loop Stitches and their techniques are given below:
• French Knot
• Double Knot
• Bullion Knot

3.3.17 Steps of Carrying out French Knot

This is one of the most commonly used knotted stitches. French knot is used to make decorative dots, filling
flower centres, leaves, plants etc.

Step 1: Bring the needle out through A. Step 2: Place the needle close to the fabric. Wrap
the thread around it twice.

Step 3: Keep the longer end of the thread pulled Step 4: Pull down the needle through the fabric. You
with your fingers while putting the needle will see your first French knot formed.
back in a point just close to A or even through A.

151
Participant Handbook

3.3.18 Steps of Carrying out Double Knot

It is also known as Palestrina knot stitch. This stitch is usually used for outlining or bordering purposes.

Step 1: Bring the needle out through the point A, Step 2: Take the needle below the stitch A-B, without
which lies on the stitch line. Then, take the plucking the fabric underneath. The needle will
needle in through B, which lies on the be angled above or towards the left of the
stitch line too. Bring out the needle through point C.
C, a point straight above and not too far from B.

Step 3: Take the needle under the stitch A-B. Only, this Step 4: When we pull out the needle, the first double
time, the needle is angled below or towards knot is formed. For the nest knot by putting
the right side of the point C. Then, loop the in the needle through D on the stitch line and
bringing it out from E, just above the point D.
thread around the needle
Continue with the procedure as we did for the
first knot.

Step 5: The finished portion of double knot would

look like as in figure.

152
Self Employed Tailor

3.3.19 Steps of Carrying out Bullion Knot

This knot is very similar to the French Knot, but here the loop is threaded around the needle more times, producing
a worm of a knot that is inserted a slight distance from the needle’s original entry point. Bullion knot is used to
create decorative dots, leaves, plants etc.

Step 1: Bring the needle out through A and put the Step 2: Bring the needle out through A again. Then,
wind the thread around the needle as shown.
needle through B at a desired length.
The distance of wound thread should measure
the same as the distance between A and B. Too
many or too less wraps will spoil the stitch.

Step 3: Holdthewrappedthreadwithyourfingersand
[Link]
pullingtheneedlecompletelyinanupwarddirection Step 4: The finished bullion stitch would look like as
[Link]
in the figure
thewrapsifrequiredandputintheneedleback
throughB.

153
Self Employed Tailor

UNIT 4.1: Inspections and Alterations for Fittings

Unit Objectives
At the end of this unit, you will be able to:
1. Know the importance of basic elements of garment fitting
2. Carry out fitting inspection
3. Recognise the common fitting errors and their solutions

4.1.1 Basic Elements of Garment Fitting

A well-fitted garment is very important to reach the satisfaction level of a client who wears tailored attire. Every
detail has to be attended to, when a tailor does fittings. If the fittings are improper the look and design of the
garment completely destroyed.
A good fit is based on 5 classic elements
1. Grain: For a good fit the garment should be cut on the right grain. If the costume is off-grain, the seam lines
may twist or hang crooked. Imprecise cutting or stitching may result in deviation in the grain line.
2. Set: Is when the garment fits perfectly without any undesirable wrinkles. Wrinkles usually occur because the
garment is too large or too small for the customer.
3. Line: Refers how the lines of the garment are in alignment with the natural lines of the body. Poor design or
construction can result in an out of line garment
4. Balance: occurs when the garment is in equilibrium. The garment should appear symmetrical, when viewed
from any angle.
5. Ease: Is how fitted or airy the fittings of the garment is. A good fitted garment will give some room to breathe
and won’t be too fitted or tight.

Fig.4.1.1(a): Garment Fittings

157
Participant Handbook

Fig.4.1.1(b): Garment Fittings

[Link] Carrying Out Fittings Inspection

A tailor must check the following details when he checks the fittings of a garment
Shoulders
• Seam should lie on the edge of the shoulder.
• The shoulders should be wide enough to ensure that the sleeves hang comfortably into position.
• The shoulder slope of the garment should go in sync with the shoulder slope of the wearer.

Fig.4.1.2: Shoulder Fitting

Chest/Bust
• The tip of the dart should end about an inch before the fullest part of the curve of the bust.
• Incorrect positioning of the dart will make the garment too fitted around the bust area.

Fig.4.1.3: Chest/bust Fitting

158
Self Employed Tailor

Neckline
• The front of the normal neck line should be always larger than the neckline at the back
• Neckline should not be too large or too small.

Fig.4.1.4: Neckline Fitting

Collar
• The circumference of the collar should be at least 1/4th of an inch bigger than that of the neckline.
• You should be able to slip a finger in between your neck and the shirt at any point without struggling or
forcing.
• The collar should neither be too tight nor too loose.

Fig.4.1.5: Collar Fitting

Sleeves
• The crosswise grain at the bicep should lie parallel to the floor.
• The sleeve should not be too fitted and should hang comfortably.
• The sleeve should begin from the edge of the shoulder seam. If it is too high the sleeve would pull.
Waistline
• The waistline should not be too fitted or too loose as both can cause discomfort.
• The narrowest part of the garment should fall at the wearer’s waist.
Hips
• Garments should have enough room around the hip area.
• Garment should not have excess ease in hip or thigh area as it will result in vertical folds.

159
Participant Handbook

Crotch/seat
In order to incorporate comfort and durability, trousers and other bifurcated garments require a well-fitted crotch
for. A properly tailored crotch doesn’t cut or bind the wearer amid the legs and adapts to the shape of the
buttocks. There should be slight ease in the crotch area. Crotch length has one inch of ease in the crotch area.
The back of the crotch seam should be lengthier and more deeply curled than the anterior as the behind of the
buttocks are more curved than the front. Bigger sizes require longer and deeper curved crotch lengths at the
back. Oblique wrinkles radiating from the crotch area is because crotch curve isn’t left long enough to allow the
size of the buttocks. Diagonal wrinkles in the front may also be due to the wearer’s big abdomen. Wrinkles coming
upward from the crotch area indicate a too tight and high crotch, causing to chafing and discomfort. Wrinkles
coming downwards from the crotch area shows a low and loose crotch; it stacks and drops, restricts walking
and has increased probability of ripping from strain of movement. If the rise may be elongated or reduced, the
waistband should also be raised or lowered. Rise should not be lengthened or shortened in the crotch length as
the same may lead to problems where none existed.

4.1.2 Why and How to Fit?

To have a good fit of a garment, accurate calculations and design corrections is not enough. They can only provide
an approximation of one’s figure needs. The other points to be considered to have a good fit are:
1. The stylishness of the attire whether it suits oneself or not.
2. The sufficient ease in the garment.
3. The posture and the individual figure of the wearer.
Only on a fabric test fit, these can be evaluated. Since only minor changes can be made once the garment has
been cut on the fabric. Hence a test fit can save lot of waste. There are times when test fit is not necessary, those
are when one is sure of the style, know from experience how to adjust the pattern, have sufficient material to
recut if necessary and have adequate seam allowances to borrow in crises. But if one has any doubts whatsoever,
then test fitting is a must.
Usually used test material is muslin, bleached or unbleached. It should be used in a similar weight to that of the
final fabric. Any other solid coloured plain weave fabric like poplin in a similar weight to final fabric would do. A
plain surface is recommended as this clearly shows all seams, darts and other style details. Layout the pattern cut
and mark your test fit fabric with equal amount of care as you would your final garment fabric. The fastest way to
get the outcome of the finished garment without actual stitching is to overlay and pin all the seams lines. Pinning
gives the same result and information, that one wants without going to the machine. It is so faster to unpin and
then re-pin. After that to rip stitching and re-stitching.
Pins must be placed at the right angle to the seam line, as in, this method there is least amount of straining or
pull on the seam, and it does not gape. When test-fitting trousers remember to baste stitch the crotch seam.
Check the test fit muslin and make alteration till fully satisfied. Mark all the rectifications and the same should
be relocated on the pattern for it is the paper pattern that one should use to cut the final fabric and not the test
fit muslin. Mark new notches as the old ones may not hold good after the alterations. Check the lengths of two
corresponding seams to ensure that the alterations have not created more problems, e.g. if you have corrected
the dart intake of side seam dart in the front, check to ensure that both the side seams are still equal or not and
if vital make the necessary changes.

160
Self Employed Tailor

Methods of fit
There are two kinds of fitting:
4. The first test fit is done on muslin at the time when the design is made. A basic test fit is done to cross
check, the pattern fitting; the pattern is cut with relevant seam allowances and pinned in place for test
fitting. Make sure that seams and darts are in place. This fitting is done from the right side of the garment.
These corrections become the new seam lines for the garment. Check the garment for ease and fullness. It is
important to mark buttons and buttonholes at right places in this fit.
5. The second is after the garment has been stitched before final finishing. Stitch the garment with relevant
interfacing/ or underlining in place press it well and test fit to check the position of darts, seams, puckers if
any and find the position of outer seams. This sort of fitting improves the fit of the attire. Other times when
refitting happens, if the garment has been purchased readymade from the market some alterations may be
required for it to be fitted to an individual’s size and also if there are changes in the body size. The methods by
which each pattern seam or area is to be corrected or reformed depends on the type of problems and nature
of the fitting defect. The major problem areas have been previously recognized and thoroughly explained.
There are areas that require minor modifications those have been explained and those that require some
pattern manipulation have been shown with figures and explained briefly.
Given below are some of the fitting problems that would necessitate pattern alterations.
Waist alterations
• Thick waists reduce the size of the darts and or add at the side seam.
• Slim waists upsurge the size of the darts and take some at the side seam. If alteration is a small amount then
the changes may be made in either in the darts or on the side seam. But in case the amount is adequately
large than half of it should be altered in the dart and half in the side seam.
Shoulder alterations
Since the clothes hang from the shoulder their correct fit begins the lines and shaping of the rest of the garment.
• Narrow shoulders: On front and back pattern; draw L-shaped slash lines from mid shoulder to notches on the
armhole. Slash and overlap the pattern at shoulder to the needed amount. Redraw the shoulder line.
• Square armholes: On front and back pattern, draw slash lines from neck to armhole edges. Slash and spread
the pattern at armhole edges to the needed amount. Raise the armhole curve by the correction amount.
Redraw the pattern on a new sheet or add paper to fill the gap
• Broad shoulders: On front and back pattern draw L-shaped slash lines from mid shoulder to notches on the
armhole. Slash and spread the pattern at shoulder to the needed amount. Redraw the pattern or insert paper
in the gap. Correct the shoulder lines.
• Sloping shoulders: On front and back pattern draw slash lines from neck to armhole edges. Slash and overlap
the pattern at armhole edges to the needed amount. Pin the pattern piece or scotch- tape it to the required
position. Redraw the armhole curves, lowering them at underarm by the same amount that you have taken
in for corrections.
• Round armholes: On front and back pattern, draw slash lines from neck to armhole edges. Slash and overlap
the pattern at armhole edges to the needed amount. Redraw the armhole curves, lowering them at underarm
by the same amount that you have taken in for corrections.
Sleeve alterations
The sleeve hangs from the shoulder and setting of the sleeve starts at the shoulder. Check that the armhole is
neither too tight nor too loose otherwise a sleeve will not set in properly.

161
Participant Handbook

• Wrinkling, pulling, straining, binding: This may be due to insufficient width across the sleeve cap, across the
chest or back. Unpin the sleeve. Use some of the sleeve seam allowances at the armhole and sleeve cap for
more width.
• Tight armhole: Drop the armhole by requisite amount. Add width at both the armhole and sleeve edge. Use
some of the under arm seam allowances at sleeve and side seam.
• Short sleeve stands out at the hem: This is due to insufficient length of the sleeve cap. Draw a slash line
across the cap. Slash and spread to the needed amount. Correct the armhole curve.
• Sleeve cap wrinkles across the top of the sleeve: This indicates too much length at sleeve cap. Draw a slash
line across the cap. Slash and overlap to the needed amount. Correct the armhole curve.
• Heavy arm: Draw an upturned slash line on each side of the sleeve opening at under arm to the lower edge
of the sleeve. Slash and spread the pattern to half the needed amount to each side at the underarm and
tapered to nothing at the lower edge. Make identical changes in the armhole seam of the front and back
bodice. Draw a slash line from the underarm to waistlines in front and back bodice. Slash and spread the
pattern to the same amount as that added on each side of the sleeve, starting at the underarm and tapering
to nothing at the lower edge.
• Tight upper arm: Slash the sleeve at the centre from shoulder point to the lower edge. Spread at the cap the
essential amount tapering at the lower edge.
Bust alterations
Since the bust area is the most difficult to fit being the rounded part of the body. Check the garment; it should
be neither too tight nor too loose. Big alterations are not very effective in this area especially for closer fitting
garments.
• Bust with a large cup: As you know, women with the same bust size have different cup sizes. These causes
the garment to be tight over the bust area. Draw a upright slash line from the shoulder passing through
the bust point to the other edge of the pattern, passing through the waistline dart. Draw a vertical line to
this line at the bust point from centre
front to the side seam. Slash on all
lines and spread the pattern adding at
the bust area without increasing at the
[Link] added width at the side
seam and waistline should be taken in
a dart. If the dart intake is very big it is
advisable to convert it into two darts.
• Bust with a small cup: Draw a
vertical slash line from the shoulder
passing through the bust point to the
other edge of the pattern, passing
through the waistline dart. Draw a
perpendicular to this line at the bust
point from centre front to the side
seam. Slash on all lines and overlap
the pattern without reducing on the
Fig.4.1.6: Bust with a large cup
shoulder.
Hip pattern alterations
Fitting problems in this are manifest themselves in wrinkling, pulling, sagging and uneven hemlines.

162
Self Employed Tailor

• Small hips: Draw a vertical slash line from the waist to the hem of the skirt pattern. Draw a horizontal line
from centre back to the side seam passing through the fullest part of the hip. Slash the pattern on both the
lines and overlap width wise to remove excess without loosing at the waist, unless the dart intake can be
taken out for ease. Overlap length wise to remove excess without loosing at the side seam. True the seam
lines.
• Large hips: Draw a vertical slash line from the waist to the hem of the skirt pattern. Draw a horizontal line
from centre back to the side seam passing through the fullest part of the hip. Slash the pattern on both the
lines and spread width wise to fullness; the added ease may be taken in the dart intake. Spread length wise
to add fullness without adding at the side seam. True the seam lines.
Given below are some of the common fitting problems that would necessitate pattern alterations with illustrated
solutions by draping method.

1. Problem- Folds below the bust dart.

Solution- Undo the dart and part of the side seam. Lift shoulder
a little, re-pin a bigger dart and pin the side seam to take out
the excess fabric.

Fig.4.1.7: Folds below the bust dart

2. Problem- Low waist.

Solution- Tie a band around the waist and remark the waistline.
Remove and re-pin the skirt to new waistline.

Fig.4.1.8: Low waist

3. Problem- Baggy below the hip.

Solution- Raise the skirt at back only and re-pin

Fig.4.1.9: Baggy below the hip

163
Participant Handbook

4. Problem- Gaping armhole

Solution- undo dart and pin a bigger dart. Making sure that it
points towards the bust point. One may need to lift shoulder
seam at the armhole.

Fig.4.1.10: Gaping armhole

5. Problem- Low neckline gapes.

Solution- Lift at the front shoulder seam. Lower the dart point
if necessary

Fig.4.1.11: Low neckline gapes

6. Problem- Folds in the dress below the waist.

Solution- Undo the side seam from below the armhole and ease
out until the garment hangs smoothly.

Fig.4.1.12: Folds in the dress below the waist

7. Problem- Tight neck or armhole.

Solution- slash and snip seam allowance to release tension. If it
is not enough, mark a new seam line that is lower than before.

Fig.4.1.13: Tight neck or armhole

164
Self Employed Tailor

8. Problem- Neckline stands away and folds below.

Solution- release shoulder seam and let it out at the armhole
edge.

Fig.4.1.14: Neckline stands away and folds below

9. Problem- Shoulder seam lies towards the front of the shoulder.

Solution- Undo shoulder seam and release front seam
allowances only.

Fig.4.1.15: Shoulder seam lies towards the front of the shoulder

10. Problem- Folds across sleeve at the top.

Solution- Mark a new fitting line below the existing one to
reduce cap height.

Fig.4.1.16: Folds across sleeve at the top

11. Problem-Sleeve hangs towards the back.

Solution- Remove the sleeve and re-pin by moving the notch at
the centre of the sleeve toward the back so that the sleeve may
hang towards the front

Fig.4.1.17: Sleeve hangs towards the back

165
Participant Handbook

12. Problem- Wrinkles and creases around the upper arm.

Solution- Release the underarm seam allowance and add the
ease.

Fig.4.1.18: Wrinkles and creases around the upper

arm
13. Problem- Sleeve pulls at the back armhole.
Solution- Unpin the sleeve and release the seam allowance on
both the armholes of sleeve and bodice.
Fig.4.1.19: Sleeve pulls at the back armhole

14. Problem- Trousers are loose at waist, hip or leg. Creases on

leg and trousers stands away at waist.
Solution- Take excess fabric at side and pin at original seam
lower down. For larger hip increase the dart intake. Pin the
excess towards the outer seam.

Fig.4.1.20: Loose at waist, hip or leg

15. Problem- Trousers tight below the waist, crease around

abdomen.
Solution- Release darts and reduce their width and length, also
release some ease on the outer seams and re-p”

Fig.4.1.21: Trousers tight below the waist

166
Self Employed Tailor

4.1.3 Common Fitting Errors and Their Solutions

Most of fitting errors can be altered or changed easily.

Problems Solutions
Folds below the bust dart Undo the dart and part of the side seam. Lift the shoulder, re-pin
a larger dart and pin the side seam to take out the excess fabric.
Gaping armhole Undo dart and pin a bigger dart. Making sure that it points
towards the bust point. Lift shoulder seam at the armhole.
Low neckline gapes. Lift the front shoulder seam. Lower the dart point if necessary.
Folds in the dress below the waist. Undo the side seam from below the armhole and ease out until
the garment hangs smoothly.
Tight neck or armhole. Slash and snip seam grant to release tension
Neckline stands away and folds below. Release shoulder seam and let it out at the armhole edge
Shoulder seam lies towards the front of the Undo shoulder seam and release front seam allowances only.
shoulder.
Sleeve hangs towards the back Remove the sleeve and re-pin by moving the notch at the centre
of the sleeve toward the back so that the sleeve may hang
towards the front.
Wrinkles and creases around the upper arm. Release the underarm seam allowance and add the ease.
Sleeve pulls at the back armhole. Unpin the sleeve and release the seam allowance on both the
armholes of sleeve and bodice.
Trousers are loose at waist, hip or leg. Leave the darts and decrease their width and length, also release
Creases on leg and trousers stands away at some ease on the outer seams and re-pin.
waist.
Trousers tight below the waist, crease Release darts and reduce their width and length, also release
around abdomen. some ease on the outer seams and re-pin.

Fig.4.1.22: Common Fitting Errors and Their Solutions

167
Self Employed Tailor

UNIT 5.1: Maintain Work Area, Tools and Machines

Unit Objectives
At the end of this unit, you will be able to:
1. Practice the machine safety and maintain machines properly.
2. Carry out basic maintenance of machine.
3. Maintain tools and equipments and handle them safely.
4. Use materials to minimize waste.
5. Carryout running maintenance within agreed schedules.
6. Carry out maintenance and/or cleaning within one’s responsibility.
7. Work in a comfortable position with the correct posture.
8. Use cleaning equipment and methods appropriate for the work to be carried out.
9. Dispose of waste safely in the designated location.
10. Store cleaning equipment safely after use.
11. Carryout cleaning according to schedules and limits of responsibility.

Fig 5.1.1: A well maintained machine shop

171
Participant Handbook

5.1.1 Introduction
Machines are essential to modern production. However, along with accrued productivity, they have brought
hazards into the tailoring shop. proper management of machine hazards has traditionally been seen as expensive
and a constraint on productivity. In general, the garment manufacturing trade is considered to be less dangerous
than alternative industrial sectors and, therefore, safety policy is a low priority in several enterprises. for example,
it has been ascertained that some workers remove guards protective belts from sewing machines, and manual
cutting machines are operated with naked hands.
Machine breakdown is a common reason behind production delay affecting delivery schedules. Considering the
importance of meeting delivery dates, a competitive enterprise cannot afford penalties for delay due to machine
breakdown therefore, proper maintenance of machines to prolong their economic life, reduce breakdowns,
prevent defective outputs and guarantee safe operation ought to be additional importance. protective staff
against pollution from the frequent use of solvents for cleaning and the existence of cotton or other fibers within
the surroundings ought to also be taken into consideration. Maintenance and safety measures to eliminate
these hazards and increase machine productivity, beside affordable techniques for environmental control, are
mentioned below.

5.1.2 Maintain Machines Properly

A poorly maintained machine is inefficient, if not dangerous. it will also have frequent breakdowns and quality
issues. proper maintenance isn't lost production time; it's an investment for higher productivity and lower repair
prices. nonetheless in several corporations, machines are maintained only if they break down. this can be as a
result of a number of reasons:
• Machines are owned by the contractors or they're leased.
• No maintenance personnel are available.
• No time to maintain machines is allotted under production time.
• There is a powerful belief that maintenance means cost.
• Some machines are not simple to maintain.
Machine down-time affects production and causes delays. Defects are also made inflicting quality and productivity
issues. Machine maintenance ought to, therefore, be planned and coordinated with supervisors and employees.
employees ought to be involved in machine maintenance and should be equipped a basic tool kit to include
tweezers, small screwdriver, machine brush, oil can and material wipes. one of the basic training skills is to train
employees to do routine machine maintenance such as:
• Removing lints
• Cleaning the tension assembly
• Cleaning the feed dog assembly
• Cleaning the bobbin area
• Lubricating the machine

172
Self Employed Tailor

[Link] Removing Lint

Lint: With proper care, a sewing machine can last for many, many years. Fabric and thread are a combination that
is going to produce lint. Lint can build up in unseen areas of machine leading to wear and tear. To keep the sewing
machine running smoothly, good quality thread should be used and simple maintenance should be performed
regularly. One of the most important things is to clean out the pieces of lint leftover from bits of thread and fuzzy
fabric. Sewing with thick, furry fabrics (such as polar fleece), will need cleaning of the sewing machine frequently.
One should open all areas that can be cleaned and clean the lint out of the machine. Usage of brush should be
done to remove lint in cracks and crevices and from under the bobbin case.
Requirements: Sewing machine
• Lint brush
• Small soft brush
• Clean lint free cloth
• Compressed air (optional but helpful)
• Light source
• Screw drivers

[Link] Cleaning the Bobbin Area

• Step 1: Turn off and unplug the sewing machine.
• Step 2: Remove the bobbin cover and the bobbin.
• Step 3: Using a small lint brush (many machines come with one), carefully remove any lint from the bobbin
area. Be especially sure to remove any lint from crevices and tight places, since compacted lint can actually
stop the machine from running.
• Step 4: Using the lint brush or canned air, remove the lint from the
area around the needle, the presser foot and the thread guides.
• Step 5: Remove any lint from the inside of the doors and lids of
the sewing machine.
• Step 6: Replace the bobbin and the bobbin cover.
• Step 7: Plug the sewing machine back in and turn it on.
Note: Make sure to check that after cleaning all the machine parts
are properly placed and tightened. It should be safe for using it the
next time.

Fig 5.1.2: Cleaning the bobbin and case

173
Participant Handbook

[Link] Cleaning the Tension Assembly

Maintaining the machine is important to keep it in good condition and to avoid unnecessary service costs. Keeping
the tension assembly clean is one of the maintenance procedures that, if performed on a regular basis, can help
ensure that your stitching is accurate and precise. The following steps assist the cleaning of the sewing machine
tension assembly.
• Step 1: Clean your machine often. Each stitch is precise and even a bit of lint collected on the tension assembly
can cause problems. Make it a habit to clean your sewing machine after any large project.
• Step 2: Raise the pressure foot to release the tension on the disks. Gently run the folded edge of a clean piece
of lint free cloth through the tension disks. Compressed air will also dislodge any bits of thread or lint.
• Step 3: Remove all lint along the thread guides using a small brush or clean cloth.
• Step 4: Check the bobbin area of the machine. The bobbin controls the lower tension and can be a source
of built up lint. Depending on the type of machine you have, the bobbin consists of the bobbin, case and on
some models a removable hook race. Remove these according to your instruction manual and clean with a
cloth or small brush.
• Step 5: Do a final check to make sure the tension is correct and that the bobbin assembly is in place properly
before you begin your next project.

[Link] Cleaning the Feed Dog Assembly

The feed dogs on a sewing machine help move the fabric underneath the needle. If they're not operating properly,
damage to the machine or fabric can occur. Feed dog assembly maintenance is essential to smart sewing. Use the
steps below to guide you through the procedure.
• Step 1: Unplug the machine and examine the feed dogs. The newer machines have metal feed dogs, however
older models could have rubber ones, which regularly need replacement. Examine the feed dogs and check
for damage.
• Step 2: remove the throat plate, which is the covering over the feed dogs, and clean it with a soft fabric. Use
a small soft brush to wash the feed dogs. ensure to get rid of all lint and thread from the grooves of the teeth.
Some machines have an adjustment that lowers the feed dogs for specific sewing procedures. they must be
in the raised position for better viewing during the cleanup method.
• Step 3: Clean the area around the feed dogs with a soft brush. compressed gas could be a sensible choice to
use in the small tight areas.
• Step 4: Wipe down all areas with a clean, lint free fabric before replacing the throat plate.
• Step 5: Prepare to clean the feed dogs and all other areas that lint could accumulate on, after each project.
Your sewing machine will last longer and need fewer repairs if kept clean and lint free.

174
Self Employed Tailor

5.1.3 Lubricating the Machine

In order to make sure that your sewing machine enjoys the long life it was engineered for, it is important to
repairs it regularly using proper maintenance techniques. one of the best things you can do to keep your sewing
machine running smoothly is to lubricate it using sewing machine oil. sewing machine oil isn't something you
borrow from the garage. it is clear white oil. make sure to use the right oil. refer to your owner’s manual for the
right spots to oil. some of the older machines have these areas marked.
After oiling your machine run stitches on some scrap cloth before you tackle your project. this enables oil to
escape on to the scraps, if it's going to, rather than the project you're working on. Oiling the machine not only
lubricates your moving elements, to prevent wear, it reduces the chance of rust. Rust forms rapidly with any
moistness, even just the humidness in the air. Surface rust will act just like loose sand grain in your machine, and
make excess wear.
• Step 1: Purchase a high-quality brand of sewing machine oil from a sewing store or other specialty
merchandiser. Higher quality typically comes with a higher price tag, however the value of good sewing
machine oil is favorable to the prices involved repairing or replacement an entire sewing machine.
• Step 2: unplug your sewing machine. check that its power switch is set to 'off.' as a result of you will be
dealing with fluid, it is especially important to make absolutely certain any power supply is disconnected.
• Step 3: Drop a single drip of sewing machine oil onto the mechanism that drives the sewing needle. If you
bought quality sewing machine oil, more than one drop can usually not be necessary.
• Step 4: Repeat Step three, applying one drop of oil to each part of your sewing machine that moves. Consult
your sewing machine owner's manual if you would like instruction on the way to access any moving parts
which will be contained beneath the casing of the machine.
• Step 5: allow the oil to absorb by letting your sewing machine stand for a few minutes. Most experts counsel
that fifteen to half-hour could be a sensible window of time to let your machine stand while the stitching
machine oil works its magic.
• Step 6: Plug your sewing machine back in. once you have safely done so, turn the power switch to 'on.'
• Step 7: Feed some scrap fabric through the sewing machine, running its moving elements at a slow but
constant rate. this may allow the oil to spread equally throughout the parts that need lubrication to maintain
best performance.
Tips & Warnings
• Never lubricate any electrical part of your sewing machine. This may damage to your sewing machine, and
could result in an electric shock.

5.1.4 Machine Guards

There are different safety guards given in the sewing machine that
are vital to use and it's also essential to check that the right safety
guard is in place as per the need. Below are given the machine
guards of a sewing machine.
• Finger guard: while guiding the fabric under the presser foot
the fingers may accidently cross into the path of the needle.
Hence, finger guard is attached to the presser foot to avoid such
accidents. This is very important safety feature.
Fig 5.1.3: Finger Guard

175
Participant Handbook

• Eye guard: Eye guard is important in cases where the operator

is working on the fabric which has many fibers, hence eye guard
protect eyes from getting tired. It also helps in protecting them
against any little cloth fabric like that of wool or dust fibers. Eye
guard is also used as a protection against needle-breakage in
high speed sewing machines.

Fig 5.1.4: Eye Guard

• Belt guard: Belt guard is a cover attached to the belt pulley assembly and the ad wheel. In industrial sewing
machines the pulley and the belt move at very high speeds. Hence there is always a risk of hand or hair
getting caught in the belt pulley therefore it is important to have a belt guard as it protects the operator from
such accidents.
• Motor pulley guard: Motor pulley guard is attached to the motor under the Fig, like the belt guard, motor
pulley guard protects our body Parts from getting caught in the wheel and belt attached to the motor below
the Fig.

5.1.5 Troubleshoot Common Machine

In several cases machine issues are due to the employee not having received correct training in basic machine
maintenance. This causes issues that need to be corrected by a certified mechanic/technician. All garment
enterprises suffer from such issues to varying degrees. Some common causes are:
• Incorrect needles
• Incorrect machine settings for the fabric
• Inexperienced staff
• Inexperienced mechanics/technicians
• Fabric finishes.
On-the-job training sessions could also be organized for beginners as part of their training period. Enlist the
assistance of senior operators with teaching skills. group work will provide good opportunities for these training
sessions. Sessions ought to embrace acquiring the essential sewing skills and troubleshooting sewing issues.

176

Pressman English
No ratings yet
Pressman English
40 pages
Sewing Machine Operator 3
No ratings yet
Sewing Machine Operator 3
352 pages
Textile and Clothing PDF
No ratings yet
Textile and Clothing PDF
75 pages
Textile and Clothing
100% (1)
Textile and Clothing
75 pages
PH Tailor
100% (1)
PH Tailor
329 pages
Indian Garment Industry Overview
No ratings yet
Indian Garment Industry Overview
7 pages
Summer Internship Report
No ratings yet
Summer Internship Report
67 pages
SWOT Analysis of Indian Textile Sector
100% (2)
SWOT Analysis of Indian Textile Sector
20 pages
Inline Checker English
No ratings yet
Inline Checker English
36 pages
Export Import Project
50% (2)
Export Import Project
5 pages
Industrial Safety
100% (1)
Industrial Safety
5 pages
1.1 Introduction To The Study: 1.2 The Present Indian Marketing Scenario
No ratings yet
1.1 Introduction To The Study: 1.2 The Present Indian Marketing Scenario
32 pages
Readymade Garments
No ratings yet
Readymade Garments
19 pages
List of Profitable Manufacturing Business Ideas in Textile, Apparel, Clothing,....... - 251752 PDF
No ratings yet
List of Profitable Manufacturing Business Ideas in Textile, Apparel, Clothing,....... - 251752 PDF
86 pages
GT Chapter 1
No ratings yet
GT Chapter 1
4 pages
Operations 2
No ratings yet
Operations 2
13 pages
Sustainable Textile Growth in Kerala
No ratings yet
Sustainable Textile Growth in Kerala
16 pages
Top Cotton Producing States in India
No ratings yet
Top Cotton Producing States in India
65 pages
Textile Industry
No ratings yet
Textile Industry
5 pages
SME Growth in Garment Industry
No ratings yet
SME Growth in Garment Industry
19 pages
Self Employed Tailor PDF
100% (2)
Self Employed Tailor PDF
272 pages
Mrunal Ghodake - Marketing Research
No ratings yet
Mrunal Ghodake - Marketing Research
34 pages
Compendium - Indian Textile 2010-September 2010
No ratings yet
Compendium - Indian Textile 2010-September 2010
50 pages
India's Textile Export Growth Potential
No ratings yet
India's Textile Export Growth Potential
2 pages
Pradeep Internship Report Change (1) FINAL
No ratings yet
Pradeep Internship Report Change (1) FINAL
22 pages
India Apparel Manufacturing Overview
No ratings yet
India Apparel Manufacturing Overview
28 pages
Project On International Marketing: (Export Strategy For Dolly Fabrics)
No ratings yet
Project On International Marketing: (Export Strategy For Dolly Fabrics)
18 pages
Presentation On Summer Project
No ratings yet
Presentation On Summer Project
48 pages
Textile Industry Overview
No ratings yet
Textile Industry Overview
104 pages
Overview of Global Apparel Manufacturing
No ratings yet
Overview of Global Apparel Manufacturing
7 pages
Blue Buddha 1
No ratings yet
Blue Buddha 1
38 pages
Indian Apparel Industry Insights
No ratings yet
Indian Apparel Industry Insights
18 pages
Swot Analysis of Textile Industry
90% (21)
Swot Analysis of Textile Industry
11 pages
HR Policies and Its Implementation
100% (3)
HR Policies and Its Implementation
69 pages
Internship Insights for Aspiring Professionals
No ratings yet
Internship Insights for Aspiring Professionals
45 pages
Garment Industry
No ratings yet
Garment Industry
37 pages
Indian Textiles Industry Report
No ratings yet
Indian Textiles Industry Report
26 pages
Project Report
No ratings yet
Project Report
64 pages
Indian Textile Industry Overview
No ratings yet
Indian Textile Industry Overview
28 pages
Importance of Textile Industries in Indian Economy New
100% (1)
Importance of Textile Industries in Indian Economy New
37 pages
Indian Textile Industry Performance
No ratings yet
Indian Textile Industry Performance
6 pages
Export Procedure & Documentation
83% (6)
Export Procedure & Documentation
71 pages
A Project Report On
No ratings yet
A Project Report On
15 pages
Nithyakalyani - Main Chapters
100% (1)
Nithyakalyani - Main Chapters
25 pages
Presentation On Apparel Industry: Presented by
No ratings yet
Presentation On Apparel Industry: Presented by
9 pages
India's Garment Industry Overview
No ratings yet
India's Garment Industry Overview
45 pages
Women Entrepreneuer Development in Garment Making: Management
No ratings yet
Women Entrepreneuer Development in Garment Making: Management
6 pages
CITATION Pal091 /T /L 16393
No ratings yet
CITATION Pal091 /T /L 16393
5 pages
Blackbook in Process
No ratings yet
Blackbook in Process
2 pages
Apparel Industry
No ratings yet
Apparel Industry
32 pages
ICAP
No ratings yet
ICAP
34 pages
NuSafe Workwear Options Near Soho
No ratings yet
NuSafe Workwear Options Near Soho
39 pages
Pattern Crochet Hat and Mittens Simplicity
No ratings yet
Pattern Crochet Hat and Mittens Simplicity
6 pages
1.2.1 - Triumph Global Quality Manual and Appendix - Edition Jan 2010
100% (1)
1.2.1 - Triumph Global Quality Manual and Appendix - Edition Jan 2010
118 pages
Responsibility of QA
100% (1)
Responsibility of QA
20 pages
Types and Definitions of Seams
No ratings yet
Types and Definitions of Seams
34 pages
Virgen de Rodillas - Hannah (Mismo Patron)
No ratings yet
Virgen de Rodillas - Hannah (Mismo Patron)
17 pages
Bangladesh Trade & MNC Overview
No ratings yet
Bangladesh Trade & MNC Overview
27 pages
151023-02 KM WARP PREPARATION View PDF
No ratings yet
151023-02 KM WARP PREPARATION View PDF
24 pages
Banana Fibre: Sustainable Textile Potential
No ratings yet
Banana Fibre: Sustainable Textile Potential
4 pages
Free Crochet Ice Cream Stacking Toy
100% (7)
Free Crochet Ice Cream Stacking Toy
23 pages
WM USA Apparel Quality Testing Manual December 2024
No ratings yet
WM USA Apparel Quality Testing Manual December 2024
102 pages
(ENG) Decarbonization Roadmap 9 National Industrial Sub-Sectors
No ratings yet
(ENG) Decarbonization Roadmap 9 National Industrial Sub-Sectors
36 pages
Formosa Plastics Group Overview
No ratings yet
Formosa Plastics Group Overview
38 pages
Combing Full Notes Nptel
100% (1)
Combing Full Notes Nptel
53 pages
Textile
No ratings yet
Textile
88 pages
6 in 1 Fruit Cows
100% (2)
6 in 1 Fruit Cows
25 pages
Revised - DLP Grand Demo
100% (1)
Revised - DLP Grand Demo
13 pages
MBA Organizational Study at Mannan Mill
No ratings yet
MBA Organizational Study at Mannan Mill
33 pages
Fashion Reading for ISE I Students
No ratings yet
Fashion Reading for ISE I Students
12 pages
GrannysJumperLCNEW 3
100% (5)
GrannysJumperLCNEW 3
4 pages
Learn To Crochet
100% (2)
Learn To Crochet
10 pages
Kalinda Shawl Vol2 by MyCrochetory
No ratings yet
Kalinda Shawl Vol2 by MyCrochetory
8 pages
Blue Heeler: and Red Family
No ratings yet
Blue Heeler: and Red Family
76 pages
Indusrtial Observation
No ratings yet
Indusrtial Observation
41 pages
Glass Fiber Cord and Sewing Thread: Standard Specification For
No ratings yet
Glass Fiber Cord and Sewing Thread: Standard Specification For
5 pages
Ravelry - Lana Pullover Pattern by Claudia Quintanilla - EweKnit Toronto
No ratings yet
Ravelry - Lana Pullover Pattern by Claudia Quintanilla - EweKnit Toronto
7 pages
Love Sandwiches : Crochet Pattern
No ratings yet
Love Sandwiches : Crochet Pattern
7 pages
Dolphin
100% (1)
Dolphin
13 pages
ENG - Weaving Applications - Luwa
No ratings yet
ENG - Weaving Applications - Luwa
7 pages
Santa Claus Aplique
100% (2)
Santa Claus Aplique
4 pages