CMG GardenNotes #264
Irrigation Equipment
Outline: In-Ground Sprinklers, page 1
End of Season, page 3
Pop-Up Spray Heads, page 3
Rotor Heads, page 4
Strengths and Weaknesses of In-Ground Sprinklers, page 6
Bubblers, page 6
Drip Systems, page 6
Soaker Hoses and Soaker Tubing, page 8
Strengths and Weaknesses of Drip Systems, page 8
Subsurface Drip, page 9
Strengths and Weaknesses of Subsurface Drip, page 9
Hose-End and Hand Watering, page 9
Strengths and Weaknesses of Hose-End Watering, page 10
Summary, page 10
Equipment for delivery of landscape irrigation water ranges from automated in-ground sprinkler
systems and drip irrigation systems to hose-end watering. A basic outline of each with their
strengths and limitations follows.
In-Ground Sprinklers
Variations of plantings in the personal garden landscape require diverse types of irrigation
equipment. For lawns, sprinkler irrigation with pop-up spray heads and rotor heads are generally
used. Because each type of sprinkler delivers water at a different rate, do not mix sprinkler types in a
zone.
All sprinkler systems must comply with local building codes, requiring building permits and
inspection. All in-ground sprinkler systems have the following basic components:
Point of Connection – The system starts at the point of connection where the supply line connects
to the water supply, usually in the basement of the typical house. The size of the pipe and water
pressure determines water flow and thus influences the design of the system (how many heads can
run at one time). [Figure 1]
Pressure Regulator – A pressure regulator provides uniform, lower water pressure for uniform
water delivery. This is typically found just before the point of connection. It should be set at 30 to 40
psi for the landscape irrigation system and household water use. Sprinkler systems have
maintenance problems and values may fail to shut off when the pressure is above 80 psi. Pressure
regulators are typically not found in older homes. Due to increased uniformity of water delivery,
adding a pressure regulator may result in significant water savings in landscape irrigation.
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Figure 1. Point of connection with pressure regulator and shut-off
valve for outdoor line and drain valve that drains the outdoor line
to the backflow prevention device (located just outside the house).
Backflow Prevention Device – Local building codes require a backflow
prevention device to protect the community’s water supply. This is
typically placed where the water line comes out of the house. Some
valves have a backflow prevention device built into the valve. The type to
use depends on local building codes. [Figure 2]
Figure 2.
Required by local building codes, backflow
prevention devices are typically located where
the line comes outside from the house.
Main Supply Line – The main supply line is the line
holding water under pressure throughout the summer. It
splits in the valve box, providing a valve for each zone.
To minimize maintenance headaches, use Schedule 40
PVC pipe for below-ground supply lines and copper
pipe for any above-ground pipe. PVC fittings are
connected with special glue. Copper pipefittings are
soldered. [Figure 3]
Figure 3.
Valve box with two zone valves.
Secondary Lines – Beyond the valve, secondary lines
(lines that have water only when the zone is running) go to sprinkler heads. Being easy to work with,
these are generally made of flexible black poly pipe. Connect poly pipe fitting with pinch clamps. The
size of the pipe and the water pressure determine the number of sprinkler heads that can be used
per zone. Various brands of sprinkler equipment have planning booklets with specific details for their
product lines.
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Controller – A controller (timer) runs the system from a
central location (typically in the garage). In the home
garden market, there are many styles of controllers with
a variety of features. [Figure 4]
Figure 4.
Many brands of controllers
offer a variety of features.
End of Season
In climates where the soil freezes, the lines need to be drained in the winter. This starts by turning
off the water with the valve near the point of connection and opening the internal drain line. This
drains the line to the backflow prevention valve (which is outdoors at the high point in the system).
Depending on how the system was designed, there are several methods to drain the supply line and
secondary lines. Some systems are “blown out” by connecting an air compressor. Other systems
have valves that are manually opened, allowing for drainage by gravity. In some systems, secondary
lines have self-draining valves that automatically drain the line each time the water is turned off.
Pop-Up Spray Heads
This is a generic name for sprinklers that automatically
“pop up” with a fan-shaped spray pattern and do not
rotate when running. The head retracts by spring action
when the water is turned off. [Figure 5]
Figure 5.
Pop-up spray heads are used for
small areas, up to fifteen feet.
Delivery Pattern – Pop-ups spray heads are best suited
for small to moderate sized home lawn areas (larger than seven to ten feet wide up to thirty to forty-
five feet wide) and irregular or curvilinear areas.
Pop-up spray nozzles are most common with fifteen-, twelve-, ten-, and eight-foot ranges. The
radius can usually be adjusted down about 30%, using the nozzle’s adjustment screw. Therefore, a
commonly available ten-foot nozzle can be adjusted down to seven feet. Any greater adjustment
would significantly distort the pattern, resulting in poor application efficiency.
The spray pattern of a pop-up spray head depends on the nozzle’s ability to water quarter circles,
half circles, or full circles. Some manufacturers offer adjustable arch nozzles that can be set at any
angle. However, do not use adjustable nozzles where a fixed nozzle would work, as the uniformity of
water delivery is not as high.
Some specialty patterns to manage narrow, rectangular turf areas are available (often called “end-
strip,” “center-strip” or “side-strip” nozzles). However, nozzle performance is not as uniform
compared to quarter-circle, half-circle, or full-circle nozzles.
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Within any given brand, spray nozzles have “match precipitation rates.” That is, a half-circle head
uses half the amount of water per hour as a full-circle head. With match precipitation rates, full, half
and quarter circles may be used in the same zone. It is also acceptable to mix a combination of
nozzle radii in a zone.
Figure 6.
For uniform water distribution, the spray
head needs to release water above the
grass height.
Pop-Up Height – For uniform water distribution, the sprinkler heads should rise above the grass
height, making the four inch pop-up style most popular. High pop-up heads, with a twelve inch rise,
are suitable for ground-cover areas and lower flowerbeds. [Figure 6]
Pressure – Pop-up spray heads work best with water pressure around 30-40 psi. The water
pressure at some homes may be significantly higher, and an in-line pressure regulator will be
needed in these cases. A sprinkler producing a “mist cloud” around the head is a common symptom
of excessive pressure. This gives a distorted distribution pattern, significantly increases water use,
and leads to increased maintenance problems.
In addition, a grade change of more than eight vertical feet on a single zone will result in significantly
higher pressure at the lower end, creating distribution problems.
Small Areas – Small areas less than seven to ten feet wide are difficult to irrigate efficiently with
pop-up spray heads. Consider landscape alternatives. For example, that small side yard between
houses may be an excellent site for a low maintenance, non-planted, non-irrigated mulch area.
Alternatively, the small area could be a shrub/flower bed watered with drip irrigation. A narrow lawn
strip may be watered efficiently with the new sub-surface drip for lawns.
Precipitation Rate – Pop-up spray heads have a high-water delivery rate (precipitation rate) of 1 to
2½ inches per hour. At the typical rate of 1½ inches per hour, the zone would apply ½ inch of water
in just twenty minutes.
Rotor Head
Rotor heads mechanically rotate to distribute the spray of water. Impact and gear-driven heads are
two common types in the home garden trade. [Figures 7 and 8]
Rotor heads in the home garden trade are best suited for larger lawn areas, generally eighteen-to-
twenty-four-foot radius and greater. Some rotor-type heads in the commercial line have a radius of
thirty to ninety feet.
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Figure 7. Figure 8.
Impact or impulse heads rotate as the Gear-driven heads use the flowing
water stream coming from the nozzle water to turn a series of gears that
hits a spring-loaded arm. Impact rotate the head. Gear-driven heads
heads tend to experience fewer are quieter to operate than impact
problems with marginal (dirty) water heads.
quality.
The spray pattern depends on the head. Most can be set at any angle from 15º up to a full circle.
Some are adjusted at 15º increments. Others are designed for a quarter-circle, half-circle, or full-
circle spray pattern.
In rotor head design, do not mix quarter, half, and full circle patterns in the same zone. The water
flow is the same for each head, but the area covered will be different. For example, a full circle
(covering twice the area of a half circle) will have half the precipitation rate of a half circle. The full
circle will need to run twice as long to apply the same amount of water as the half circle.
Pressure – Rotor heads typically operate at 30 to 90 psi, 30 to 40 psi being most common for heads
in the home garden trade. Better quality heads have built-in pressure regulators.
Precipitation Rate – Rotors are more uniform in water distribution than pop-up spray heads and
take much longer to water. As a rule of thumb, rotor heads deliver water at a rate of ¼ to ¾ inch per
hour. At the typical precipitation rate of ½ inch per hour, it would take sixty minutes to apply ½ inch
of water. The slower precipitation rate can be an advantage on clayey or compacted soils where
water infiltration rates are slow.
Multi-Stream Rotors
The newer multi-trajectory rotating streams provide unmatched uniformity in water distribution for
significant water savings. They have a lower application rate, reducing runoff on compacted, clayey
soils and slopes. The streams of water are large enough to resist wind disturbance, so they reduce
the amount of water blowing onto driveways, sidewalks, and roads.
Several manufacturers offer multi-stream rotors in today’s market, including Hunter MP Rotator,
Toro Precision Series, Rainbird R-VAN, and others. Generally used by landscape contractors, multi-
stream rotors are less common in the home garden trade. For the personal gardener, they may be
found online.
Almost any type of sprinkler head can be retrofitted with an MP Rotator® sprinkler, including spray
heads and traditional rotors. MP Rotators® can apply water to distances ranging from four to thirty
feet. They can also be used to water narrow planting strips, which are often difficult to water
effectively with traditional sprinkler heads.
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Depending on the head, they perform best at 30 to 40 psi. With matched precipitation rates, quarter,
half, and full heads may be mixed in a zone.
Strengths and Weaknesses of In-Ground Sprinklers
Strengths of in-ground sprinklers include the following:
• Convenience.
• Saving Time.
• Ability to irrigate small areas.
• Efficient if well-designed, maintained, and managed according to plant water needs.
Weaknesses of in-ground sprinklers include the following:
• Inefficient if poorly designed, maintained, or managed.
• Being too convenient, gardeners give them little attention, which can cause significant water
waste.
Bubblers
Small groupings of flowers and other small plants can be efficiently watered with bubblers, which
flood an area and rely on the natural wicking action of the soil to spread the water.
They are ideal for level shrub and ground cover areas. Heads are typically placed at three to five
feet intervals or placed by individual plants for spot watering. Stream bubblers are directional and
come in a variety of spray patterns.
Bubblers deliver water faster than drip emitters and are used to water trees and shrubs. Refer to
manufacturers’ literature for design and management criteria related to various models.
Drip Systems
For flower and shrub beds, small fruits and vegetable gardens, drip emitters, drip lines, micro-
sprayers, and soaker hoses are popular.
Water use rates, weed seed germination, and foliar disease problems are reduced in drip systems
that do not spray water into the air and over the plants and the soil surface. As a rule of thumb, a
drip system coupled with mulch can
reduce water needs by 50%.
Drip emitters, micro-sprayers, and drip
lines require clean water, which is free of
soil particles, algae, and salts. In-line
filters are part of the system. Water
quality is generally not a problem when
using potable water sources. However,
with non-potable water sources, the
filtering system required may be
expensive and high maintenance,
making drip impractical.
Drip systems work with lower Figure 9. In-line filter and pressure regulator going to drip line poly tubing.
pressures (typically around 20 psi),
usually with in-line pressure regulators. The system snaps together with small fittings. No gluing or
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bands are required. It is much easier to work with if the tubing has been warmed by the sun for an
hour. [Figure 9]
The system is put together with half-inch and quarter-inch poly tubing, fittings, and emitters. For the
main line and branch lines, half-inch poly tubing is used. The quarter-inch micro-tubing serves as
feeder line to individual drippers or micro-sprinklers. Ideally, the tubing is on the soil surface under
the mulch.
Specifications on design and management vary among manufacturers and types selected. Refer to
the manufacturer’s literature for details. Typical run times are sixty to ninety minutes.
Drip systems are easy to automate by connecting the zones to
valves and a controller (like an in-ground system for a lawn). For
ease of programming to the specific watering needs of the drip
system, use a dedicated controller for multiple drip zones. In
small yards, a single zone or two could be added to the
controller used for the lawn, but they would run on a different
program than the lawn to match the different watering needs.
When connected to the garden hose, the zone can be
automated with single-zone controllers that connect with hose-
end fittings at the tap. Some simple models turn the water off
after a set number of minutes or gallons. More elaborate
battery-operated models turn the water on and off at the day and
Figure 10. Drip emitter on ½” poly time interval set by the gardener.
tubing.
Like any irrigation system, drip systems require routine maintenance. They are not an install-and-
forget type of system.
For additional information on drip irrigation, refer to CSU Extension Fact Sheet #4.702, Drip
Irrigation for Home Gardens.
Drip Emitters deliver water at a slow, consistent rate, such as one-half gallon, one gallon, or two
gallons per hour. Emitters can connect to the branch line or extend on micro-tubing out to individual
plants or pots. Small annuals and perennials typically have one emitter per plant. Several would be
used spaced around larger perennials, shrubs, and small trees. [Figure 10]
As a point of clarification, some gardeners mistakenly think that using half, one, and two gallon per
hour drippers is an effective method to manage differing water needs. Although this works to a small
degree, the concept is basically flawed. The two-gallon per hour drippers will have significantly
larger wetting zones than the half-gallon per hour dripper. However, plants with the higher water
needs (two-gallon/hour drippers) do not necessarily have a larger root spread. Likewise, plants with
lower water needs (half-gallon/hour dripper) will not necessarily have a smaller root spread (in fact, a
large root spread is what makes some plants more xeric). The factor missing here is irrigation
frequency to match the water needs.
In-line Drip Tubing is a quarter-inch micro-tubing with built-in emitters spaced at six, twelve, or
twenty-four-inch intervals. The twelve-inch spacing is readily available in the home garden trade.
These are great for snaking through a bed area. For sandy soils, the spacing of the tubing should be
at twelve inches. For clayey soils, spacing may be at eighteen to twenty-four inches for perennial
beds.
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Micro-Sprayers often held up on a spike, covering a radius of two to thirteen feet. Delivery rates
vary from 0.1 to 10 inches per hour, depending on the head selected. Because water is sprayed in
the air, drift and water waste in wind resembles sprinklers more than ground-applied drip. Micro-
sprayers work with a very small droplet size that readily evaporates. For this reason, their efficiency
in Colorado’s low humidity is questionable.
Soaker Hose and Soaker Tubing
The soaker hose is a different type of drip system that allows water to seep out the entire length of
a porous hose. They are great for raised bed gardens and flower beds. In sandy soils, space runs at
twelve inches. For flower and shrubs beds on clayey soil, space runs at eighteen to twenty-four
inches. In a raised bed vegetable garden (where uniform delivery to small vegetables is important),
make three to four runs up and down a four-foot-wide bed. Typical run time is ten to twenty minutes.
Quarter-inch Soaker Tubing – Quarter-inch soaker tubing is available in the drip irrigation section
at garden stores. Cut the soaker tubing to desired length and connect with drip system components.
An in-line pressure regulator [Figure 9] is required; otherwise, the fitting may pop or leak.
Half-Inch Soaker Hose – Some brands (like Swans Soaker Hose) are a ½-inch hose that connect
with a standard hose fitting. These are found in the garden hose section. It can be cut to any length
and connected with garden hose fittings.
A small plastic disc fits inside the female hose connection as a flow regulator. To water the garden
with the reduced water flow, it may need to run for around an hour. For better performance, use the
pressure regulators with hose-end fittings found with the drip irrigation supplies see Figure 11. To
adequately water the garden with this type of regulator, the drip line runs ten to twenty minutes.
Without a pressure regulator of some type, the soaker hose tends to rupture, sending out streams of
water at spots rather than dripping along the line.
Figure 11.
Tap, pressure regulator, hose
connection, and half-inch drip
hose in a raised bed garden.
This half-inch hose style is more tolerant of tiny amounts of dirt, algae, or salts in the water than
other types of drip systems and may be successful on some non-potable water sources.
Periodically, open the end of the hose and flush out soil deposits.
Because the soaker tubing has a higher delivery rate, it cannot be on the same zone as other in-line
drip tubing, button emitters, or bubblers.
Strengths and Weaknesses of Drip Irrigation
Strengths of drip irrigation include the following:
• Convenience.
• Water savings.
• Operates with low water pressure.
• Easy to change when the plantings change.
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• Does not require trenches for installation.
• Readily automated on a multi-zone controller or single-zone controllers that connect to the
faucet.
Weaknesses of drip irrigation include the following:
• Requires good-quality water and filtration.
• Difficulty seeing if systems are operating.
• Water delivery to individual plants needs to be checked.
• For large areas, the cost will be significantly higher than a sprinkler system.
• Unsuitable for watering large trees.
Subsurface Drip
Subsurface drip is a recent way to water lawns and flowerbeds. Tubes are permanently buried below
ground. Water soaks upward and laterally so subsurface drip works in clay-containing soils, but not
well in sands.
Generally installed by a trained and experienced professional, subsurface drip requires very exact
installation depth and spacing. Without proper attention to installation, the lawn becomes striped with
green and dry strips. Studies being conducted by the Northern Colorado Water Conservation District
find that water use is similar to a well-designed sprinkler system.
Strengths and Weaknesses of Subsurface Drip
Strengths of subsurface drip include:
• Convenience.
• Operation at low pressure.
• Equipment located out of sight, where it is less prone to damage.
• Easy to water anytime day or night, even when the lawn is being used.
• Application of water directly to the root zone.
• Easy to automate with soil moisture sensors.
• Potential to inject fertilizers with the irrigation water.
Weaknesses of subsurface drip include:
• Requires high-quality water.
• Unable to see if it is operating correctly.
• Needs to be dug up if not operating properly to correct issue(s).
• Unable to insert stakes in the ground.
• Requires professional installation.
• Relatively high cost.
• Evolving technology has not stood the test of time yet.
Hose-End and Hand Watering
Hose-end watering devices include several types of spray heads, water wands and water breakers,
soaker hoses, and soil needles. Such devices are commonly used for temporary situations and
where permanent installations are impractical or not desired.
Hose-end watering is inefficient in uniformity of water delivery, resulting in high water use. However,
significant water savings may occur if gardeners do not water until the lawn/garden show signs of
being dry.
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A frequent problem with hand-held water wands is that folks tend to only water the surface, rather
than deep watering of the root system. Avoid soil needles because they apply the water below the
primary root system of trees, shrubs, and flowers.
A hand-moved sprinkler can be automated with single-zone controllers that connect with hose-end
fittings at the tap. Some simple models turn the water off after a set number of minutes or gallons.
More elaborate battery-operated models turn the water on and off at the day and time interval set by
the gardener. [Figure 12]
Figure 12. Single-zone controllers connect to the hose line.
Left: This style is manually turned on and automatically turns off after a set
number of minutes.
Right: This battery powered controller turns water on and off at the day and
time intervals set by the gardener.
Strengths and Weaknesses of Hose-End and Hand Watering
Strengths of hose-end and hand watering include the following:
• Relative low cost of equipment.
• Ability to water plants differently and is useful for spot watering.
• Allows for close observation that may result in more timely care of plants.
• Being outside in the yard encourages neighborhood relationships.
Weaknesses of hose-end hand watering include the following:
• Time-consuming.
• Poor uniformity of water distribution with hand-placed sprinklers, leading to high water use.
• Hand-held watering often leads to surface watering rather than effectively watering the root
zone.
• Water can be wasted by allowing it to run too long.
Summary
Any type of irrigation system (in-ground sprinklers, drip, or hand watering) can be very efficient if
installed and maintained properly. Likewise, any type of irrigation can be inefficient, wasting water.
What makes a system efficient or inefficient is not the equipment, but the attention given to it by the
gardener.
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CMG GardenNotes on Irrigation Management
• #260, Irrigation Management: References and Study Questions
• #261, Colorado’s Water Situation
• #262, Water Movement Through the Landscape
• #263, Understanding Irrigation Management Factors
• #264, Irrigation Equipment
• #265, Methods to Schedule Home Lawn Irrigation
• #266, Converting Inches to Minutes
• #267, Watering Efficiently
• #268, Irrigation Management Worksheet: Lawn In-Ground Sprinkler System Check-Up
Authors: David Whiting, CSU Extension, retired and Carl Wilson, CSU Extension, retired. Artwork by David Whiting. Used
with permission. Revised September 2017 by Kurt M. Jones, CSU Extension. Reviewed October 2022 by Brian Kailey,
CSU Extension.
• Colorado Master Gardener GardenNotes are available online at [Link]
• No endorsement is intended of products mentioned, nor is criticism implied of products not mentioned.
• Copyright Colorado State University Extension. All Rights Reserved. CMG GardenNotes may be reproduced,
without change or additions, for nonprofit educational use with attribution.
• Colorado State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and cooperating Colorado counties.
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Reviewed October 2022
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