cuddlystitchescraft.
com
Free crochet horse pattern, free Amigurumi horse
pattern
Horses have been called the noblest of creatures, and it’s easy to see why. If you are a horse lover then you
must try this free crochet horse pattern. It is a very easy pattern to follow and you can have lots of fun
creating a crazy hair-do for this cute Amigurumi horse.
Free Crochet Horse Pattern – Notes
Skill level: intermediate crochet skills and knowledge
Finished size when seated: 23cm / 9 inches with 3mm = C/2
Finished size from ears to toes: 30.5cm / 12 inches with 3mm = C/2
Free Crochet Horse Pattern – Materials and Equipment
Yarn I used:
– Fine Sport #2 = 4 ply
– 55% cotton and 45% acrylic
– 2x ball of light brown yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 07 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of dark brown yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 70 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of green yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 29 – (50g/160m)
– 1x ball of white yarn – YarnArt Jeans – colour 62 – (50g/160m)
Other materials used: polyester fibre fill
Crochet hook: I used 3mm = C/2, if using different weight of yarn then refer to hook size recommendations
on the yarn but go one size smaller. I highly recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Amazon as
it comes in a stylish case and with other accessories such as stitch markers etc.
Other equipment used: scissors, yarn needle, pins with large heads, stitch marker or thin yarn to use
instead, 12mm safety eyes
Choking hazard warning: the use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age
of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
Free Crochet Horse Pattern – Abbreviations Used
This free crochet horse pattern is written using US crochet terminology
– MR: magic ring
– ST: stitch
– SC: single crochet stitch
– HDC: half double crochet stitch
– DC: double crochet stitch
– TC: triple crochet stitch
– CH: chain stitch
– SL: slip stitch
– INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– L INC: large increase = three single crochet stitches in the same stitch
– DEC: standard decrease
– INV DEC: invisible decrease = insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (two loops on hook)
and immediately insert it again into the front loop of the next stitch (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and
draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops on the hook). Yarn over and draw through the two
loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease
– BLO: back loops only
– FO: fasten off
– (…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in
the brackets 6 times)
– {…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of total stitches at the end of each round
Free Crochet Horse Pattern – Let’s Get Started!
You may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet horse pattern.
How to Crochet the Ears
Crochet from the top of the ear downwards.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: (SC in next ST, INC) x 3 {9}
R3: SC in each ST around {9}
R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 3 {12}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 3 {15}
R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 3 {18}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 3 {21}
R8-R10 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}
R11: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}
R12: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {15}
R13: SC in each ST around {15}
R14: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {12} and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing, do not stuff the
ears
How to Crochet the Head
Starting from the nose to the back of the head.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}
R9-R15 (7 rounds): SC in each ST around {48}
R16: (SC in next 14 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {45}
Change yarn to light brown colour
R17: SC in next 8 ST, INC, (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 6 ST {51}
R18: SC in next 9 ST, INC, (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 6 ST {57}
R19: SC in next 10 ST, INC, (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 5, SC in next 6 ST {63}
R20: INC, SC in next 28 ST, INC, SC in next 8 ST, INC, SC in next 24 ST {66}
R21-R28 (8 rounds): SC in each ST around {66} – leave your stitch marker in at the start of R20 & R27 as
you will need to refer to it when placing the eyes and making the mane
R29: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}
R30: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}
R31: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R32: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}
You can now place the eyes:
– stuff the head well first
– it helps to use pins with large heads to first mark the spots where the eyes will be placed – you can make a
decision whether you are happy with the placement and if it looks symmetrical before you insert the safety
eyes; the safety eyes usually make a large hole in between the stitches so it is not recommended to change
the placement of the eyes once they are in (Pic H1)
– place the eyes between rounds R20 and R21
– first eye – count 25 stitches from your marker at the start of R20 and place the eye between ST25 and
ST26
– second eye – count 44 stitches from your marker at the start of R20 and place the eye between ST44 and
ST45
– you can now insert the safety eyes but do not put the safety backs on yet (Pic H2)
Sculpting the eyes (indented eye look):
– take a long piece of yarn and thread your needle
– remove the left eye; place the needle in a stitch next to the left eye hole (Pic H3)
– remove the right eye; come across the side with the needle and place it into a stitch next to the right eye
hole; pull all the way through till the yarn tail is not showing
– place your needle in a second stitch next to the right eye and come across the side with the needle again
(Pic H5)
– repeat the process back and forth between the two eye holes while pulling on the yarn tightly each time
you come across the side
– you will need to repeat this about three times until you achieve the indented eye look you want and then
you can weave the yarn in (Pic H7)
– place the eyes back in the holes; remove some or most of the stuffing and place the safety backs on
making sure they snap in place tightly
– you can now re-stuff the head (Pic H8) and continue crocheting R33
R33: SC in each ST around {42}
R34: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R35: SC in each ST around {36}
R36: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}
R37: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R38: (SC in next 2 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {18}
R39: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}
R40: SC in each ST around {12}, close the hole using a yarn needle and weave the yarn end in
How to Crochet the Bridle
We will start with a chain and then will SC into it.
R1: Chain 51 STs and join the chain with a SL ST to make a circle {51}
R2: Chain 1 ST and SC in each ST around (insert your hook through the back bump of each ST too); join
with a SL ST; FO and weave yarn end in {51} (Pic B1)
R3: Attach the yarn to ST15 of the circle (Pic B2), chain 44 STs and SL ST into ST37 and again into ST38
of the circle (Pic B3)
R4: SC in each ST of the second chain (insert your hook through the back bump of each ST too); join with a
SL ST into ST14 of the first circle; FO and weave yarn ends in {44} (Pic B4)
You may need to adjust the number of chain STs in R1 and R3 to ensure the bridle is a good fit
depending on how well you stuffed the head.
Sew the bridle to the head as shown in the photos. I attached the front part to R16 & R17 of the head.
How to Crochet the Body
Starting from the bottom of the body to the top.
R1: MR – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8: (SC in next 6 ST, INC) x 6 {48}
R9: (SC in next 7 ST, INC) x 6 {54}
R10: SC in each ST around {54}
R11: (SC in next 8 ST, INC) x 6 {60}
R12: (SC in next 9 ST, INC) x 6 {66}
R13: (SC in next 10 ST, INC) x 6 {72}
R14: SC in each ST around {72}
R15: (SC in next 11 ST, INC) x 6 {78}
R16-R21 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {78}
R22: (SC in next 11 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {72}
R23-R24 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {72}
R25: (SC in next 10 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {66}
R26: SC in each ST around {66}
You can now start stuffing the body
R27: (SC in next 9 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {60}
R28: SC in each ST around {60}
R29: (SC in next 8 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {54}
R30-R31 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {54}
R32: (SC in next 7 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {48}
R33-R34 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {48}
R35: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {42}
R36-R37 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}
R38: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R39-R40 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}
R41: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}
R42: SC in each ST around {30} and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing
How to Crochet the Arms
Starting from the bottom of the arm upwards.
R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36}
R7-R9 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around – crochet R7 into back loop of each ST {36}
R10: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}
R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30}
R13: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
Change yarn to green colour now
R14: SC in each ST around {24}
Change yarn to light brown colour now
R15: SC in each ST around {24}
You can now start stuffing the arm
R16: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}
R17-R19 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}
R20: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}
R21-R23 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R24: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}
R25-R26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}
You can now stop stuffing the arm
R27: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}
R28-R29 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {16}
R30: INV DEC, SC in next 14 ST {15}
R31-R32 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {15}
R33: SC in next 3 ST and then SC the opening together to close the arm, FO leaving a long piece of yarn for
sewing
How to Crochet the Legs
Starting from the bottom of the leg upwards.
R1: Magic ring – 6 x SC into the ring {6}
R2: INC in each ST around {12}
R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
R4: (SC in next 2 ST, INC) x 6 {24}
R5: (SC in next 3 ST, INC) x 6 {30}
R6: (SC in next 4 ST, INC) x 6 {36} – leave your stitch marker in at the start of R6 as you will need to refer
to it when crocheting the horse shoe
R7: (SC in next 5 ST, INC) x 6 {42}
R8-R9 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around – crochet R8 into back loop of each ST {42}
Crochet the white horse shoe after R9 – follow the pattern in the next section and then come back to R10
R10: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {36}
R11-R12 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {36}
R13: (SC in next 4 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {30}
Change yarn to green colour now
R14-R15 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {30} – change yarn to light brown colour after R14
You can now start stuffing the leg
R16: (SC in next 3 ST, INV DEC) x 6 {24}
R17: SC in each ST around {24}
R18: (SC in next 6 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {21}
R19-R20 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {21}
R21: (SC in next 5 ST, INV DEC) x 3 {18}
R22-R23 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}
R24: INV DEC, SC in next 16 ST {17}
You can now stop stuffing the leg
R25-R26 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {17}
R27: INV DEC, SC in next 15 ST {16}
R28: SC in each ST around {16}
R29: SC the opening together to close the leg and FO leaving a long piece of yarn for sewing
How to Crochet the Horse Shoe
We will surface crochet the shoe using slip stitches.
Step 1: Count 2 STs from the start of R6 of the leg and insert the hook into the leg between ST2 and ST3;
draw a loop through
Step 2: Insert your hook into the next ST, yarn over, pull the yarn through and SL ST
Step 3: Continue to SL ST in circle until you have 29 STs in total
Step 4: Tie a knot with both yarn ends on the wrong side of the piece and continue to crochet R10 of the leg
How to Make the Mane
We will attach 3 lines of mane starting from the front of the head towards the back of the head.
I recommend making the mane after you have assembled your toy.
Step 1: Cut the yarn into pieces – 15cm / 6 inches long each
Step 2: Insert your hook through a ST at the top of the head (between R27 & R28); use 2 pieces of yarn,
fold them in half and draw a loop through the ST (Pic M2)
Step 3: Pull the yarn ends through the loop and tighten (Pic M3)
Step 4: Continue to attach another 2 pieces of yarn in the next ST – attach a line of 18 loops going from the
front of the head towards the back while alternating colours between light and dark brown – skip the bridle
if it is in the way
Step 5: Attach 2nd and 3rd line of mane next to the 1st one (18 loops each) using the same technique
Step 6: Cut the mane into desired length
You can adjust the number of lines or the number of loops in each line depending on how thick you would
like the mane to be.
How to Make the Tail
We will use the same technique that we used to make the mane.
I recommend making the tail after you have assembled your toy.
Step 1: Cut the yarn into pieces – 15cm / 6 inches long each
Step 2: Use the same technique that we used to make the mane but use 3 pieces of yarn for each loop –
attach 2 loops between R17 & R18, 3 loops between R16 & R17 and another 2 loops between R15 & R16
while alternating colours between light and dark brown
Step 3: Cut the tail into desired length
Free Crochet Horse Pattern – Assembly
Head and ears: Pin the ears to the head first to make sure they are symmetrical from the front, side and the
back too. Sew the ears to the head. I placed the ears between R28 and R30.
Head and body: Pin the body to the head first making sure that the head is in the centre from the front and
back. Sew the body to the head adding more stuffing if needed.
Arms: Pin the arms to the body in a forward facing angle (at about 45°) making sure both arms are
symmetrical from the front and back. Sew the arms to the body. I placed the arms between R32 and R39 of
the body.
Legs: Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you. Pin the legs to the body as shown in
the photo below making sure they look symmetrical. The best way to ensure you are happy with the
placement of the legs is to sit your toy up and adjust the placement of the legs if needed. Sew the legs to the
body. I placed the legs between R2 and R9 of the body.
Nostril embroidery: To embroider the nostrils you need to use a long piece of the light brown yarn – I
embroidered the nostrils between R8 & R9 leaving 5 STs between them.
Free Crochet Horse Pattern – Your Finished Crochet Toy:
You have now finished your toy! I hope you found my free crochet horse pattern easy to follow and enjoyed
making the horse!
I would very much welcome your feedback so please do leave a comment in the comment box at the bottom
of this page. And don’t forget that I love to see your finished toys so please share your photos on Instagram
with the hashtag #cuddlystitchescraft
