BP809ET.

Cosmetic Science Unit -III

UNIT 3.1
SUN PROTECTION
Introduction
• Sun exposure was believed to be a healthy benefit but Overexposure to sunlight is widely
accepted as the underlying cause for harmful effects on the skin, eye and immune system
• Sun protection refers to measures taken to safeguard the skin from harmful ultraviolet (UV)
radiation emitted by the sun. Prolonged exposure to UV rays can lead to sunburn, premature
aging, eye damage, and skin cancer.
• Protecting your skin from the sun can reduce your risk of developing skin cancer, sunburn,
and premature skin aging like age spots, sagging, and wrinkles.
• Sun protection is essential to skin cancer prevention about 90 % of non-melanoma skin
cancers and about 86 % of melanomas are associated with exposure to UV radiation from
the sun.

Why Sun Protection is Important?

• Prevents Sunburn: Painful skin burns caused by excessive UV exposure.
• Reduces Skin Cancer Risk: UV radiation is a leading cause of skin cancer.
• Prevents Premature Aging: Prolonged sun exposure causes wrinkles, dark spots, and
leathery skin i.e. To prevent photoaging and wrinkles
• Prevent hyperpigmentation and brown spots

Types of Ultraviolet (UV) Radiation

a) UVA Rays: Penetrate deep into the skin, causing premature aging, wrinkles, and
contributing to skin cancer.
b) UVB Rays: Affect the outer layers of the skin, causing sunburn and playing a significant
role in developing skin cancer.
c) UVC Rays: Mostly absorbed by the Earth's atmosphere and do not reach the surface.

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Sun Radiation Summary

Methods of Sun Protection

a) Use of Sunscreen
• Types of Sunscreens:
a) Chemical Sunscreens: Absorb UV rays. Common ingredients include avobenzone
and oxybenzone.
b) Physical (Mineral) Sunscreens: Reflect UV rays. Contain zinc oxide or titanium
dioxide.

• Sun Protection Factor (SPF):

▪ SPF 15 blocks about 93% of UVB rays.
▪ SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB rays.
▪ SPF 50 blocks about 98% of UVB rays.

• Application Tips:
▪ Apply sunscreen 15-30 minutes before sun exposure.
▪ Use at least 1 ounce (a shot glass full) for full-body coverage.
▪ Reapply every two hours and after swimming or sweating.

b) Clothing and Accessories

• Protective Clothing: Long-sleeved shirts, long pants, and skirts made of tightly woven
fabric provide the best protection.
• Hats: A wide-brimmed hat (3 inches or more) shades the face, ears, and neck.
• Sunglasses: Choose sunglasses that block 100% of UVA and UVB rays to protect the eyes
and surrounding skin.

c) Using Shade
• Avoid sun exposure between 10:00 am and 4:00 pm, when UV radiation is strongest.
• Seek shade under umbrellas, trees, or shelters.

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Sun Protection Factor (SPF)

• Sun Protection Factor (SPF) is a scientific measure. It gives an idea of how much lower the
risk of skin damage is due to the use of a sunscreen.
• It focuses on the time it takes for UVB rays to get through a sunscreen and cause the skin to
go red, compared with the time this takes when there is no sunscreen.

Defined according to international standards, it corresponds to the relation between:

• The amount of UVB radiation that will cause sunburn on unprotected skin and
• The amount of UVB radiation that will cause sunburn on sunscreen protected skin

A little more practically SPF measures the length of time a sunscreen product will protect the skin
from reddening after exposure to UVB rays, compared to how long the same skin takes to redden
without any sunscreen protection.

• SPF only measures protection from UVB radiation. It has nothing to do with deep-
penetrating UVA radiation.

The factor is calculated by dividing the sun radiation dose needed to cause skin reddening with the
dose needed to cause reddening without sunscreen.

Sunburn Radiation Dose With Sunscreen

SPF = --------------------------------------------------------------
Sunburn Radiation Dose Without Sunscreen

• This calculation is based on the application of 2 mg of sunscreen for each square centimeter
(cm) of skin surface. (2mg/cm2)

If it takes 15 times longer to burn the skin with a sunscreen on than it does with no sunscreen applied,
the SPF is 15.

In theory, if, under certain UV conditions, it would take 10 minutes for unprotected skin to start
going red, an SPF 30 sunscreen would prevent this for 300 minutes, or 5 hours, which is 30 times
longer.

How SPF is Measured (UVB Protection)?

Based on FDA regulations, a product claiming SPF protection must be clinically tested on at least
10 (previously 20-25) human volunteer subjects. However, because such SPF measurement requires
direct administration of UV radiation to the skin, there are efforts to replace the current in-vivo
method with non-invasive methods that do not require human subjects. In recent years, several in-
vitro tests have now been developed.
• In-Vivo Methods: Typically, the SPF is measured on human volunteer subjects by applying
2 mg/cm2 of a sunscreen formula to an area of the mid-back, allowing the sunscreen to dry

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for 15 minutes, and administering a series of five increasing doses of UV radiation,

simulating sunlight, to skin sites treated with the sunscreen. Another series of five increasing
UV radiation doses is applied within a skin area without the sunscreen. After 16 to 24 hours,
the irradiated skin sites are examined to determine the SPF. The SPF is the lowest dose of
UV radiation that caused mild sunburn in the sunscreen-treated area divided by the lowest
dose of UV radiation that caused mild sunburn in the area without sunscreen. The label SPF
of a sunscreen formula is based on the average SPF for 10 volunteers

• In-Vitro Methods: Current non-invasive methods for measurement of sunscreen SPF

include in vitro measurements on artificial substrates that simulate the skin surface (e.g.
polymethylmethacrylate or fused silica substrates) and computerized mathematical models
based on the UV radiation absorbance spectra of active ingredients. However, there is no
ISO Standard, regulatory agency protocol, or currently accepted method for in vitro
measurements of SPF.

How UVA Protection is Measured?

Based on the FDA ruling from June 2011, testing requirements for UVA protection claims
have been revised. In vivo UVA testing is no longer required; and the four-star UVA labelling
system and descriptors have been gone away with. A simple critical wavelength spectrometer
reading has replaced the previous extensive in-vitro UVA testing.

UV-Testing Laboratories
SPF testing must be done by special laboratories that have a lot of expertise and experience. Here
are laboratories that offer this service:
• Suncare Research Laboratories, North Carolina, USA
• AMA Labs, New York, USA
• Consumer Product Testing Company, (CPT) Labs, New Dutch, USA

SUNSCREEN
Definition:
• Sunscreen (also known as sunblock or suntan lotion) is a lotion, spray, gel or other topical
product that absorbs or reflects the sun's ultraviolet (UV) radiation and protects the skin.

Every skin type needs sun protection using Sunscreen;

• To prevent photoaging and wrinkles
• To prevent skin cancer
• To prevent hyperpigmentation and brown spots

The ideal properties of sunscreens are:

• Broad-Spectrum Protection (against both UVA and UVB rays)
• Adequate SPF (SPF 30 or higher for general use)

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• Photostability (resistance to degradation in sunlight)

• Water and Sweat Resistance (at least 40 to 80 minutes)
• Non-Comedogenic (does not clog pores)
• Non-Irritating (suitable for sensitive skin)
• Lightweight and Nongreasy (cosmetic elegance)
• Minimal White Cast (especially for mineral sunscreens)
• Hypoallergenic and Fragrance-Free
• Safe Active Ingredients (like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide)
• Environmentally Safe (free of reef-damaging chemicals like oxybenzone)
• Ease of Reapplication (user-friendly for frequent use).

Classification of Sunscreens
Sunscreens are classified based on their active ingredients, mechanism of action, and level of
protection. Here are the primary categories of sunscreens:

1. Based on Mechanism of Action

a) Chemical Sunscreens
• How They Work: Absorb ultraviolet (UV) rays before they can damage the skin.
• Active Ingredients: Oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, and
octinoxate.
• Advantages:
Lightweight, easy to apply, and less visible on the skin.
• Disadvantages:
May cause skin irritation or allergic reactions in sensitive individuals.

b) Physical (Mineral) Sunscreens

• How They Work: Reflect and scatter UV rays away from the skin surface.
• Active Ingredients: Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
• Advantages:
Gentle on sensitive skin and offer immediate protection upon application.
• Disadvantages:
Can leave a white residue or chalky appearance on the skin.

2. Based on Spectrum of Protection

a) Broad-Spectrum Sunscreens
• Protect against both UVA (aging rays) and UVB (burning rays).
• Recommended for comprehensive protection to prevent skin cancer and premature
aging.
b) UVB-Only Sunscreens
• Offer protection primarily against UVB rays that cause sunburn. These are less
commonly recommended alone.

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3. Based on Water Resistance

a) Water-Resistant Sunscreens
• Maintain SPF protection for 40 or 80 minutes while swimming or sweating.
• Must be reapplied after water exposure.
b) Non-Water-Resistant Sunscreens
• Require frequent reapplication, especially after water exposure or sweating.

4. Based on Sun Protection Factor (SPF)

a) SPF 15: Blocks about 93% of UVB rays.
b) SPF 30: Blocks about 97% of UVB rays.
c) SPF 50: Blocks about 98% of UVB rays.
d) Higher SPF provides more UVB protection, though no sunscreen blocks 100%.

5. Specialized Sunscreens
a) Tinted Sunscreens
• Contain a slight color tint to reduce the appearance of a white cast, especially in mineral
formulations.
b) Sunscreens with Added Benefits
• Include moisturizing ingredients, antioxidants, or anti-aging compounds.

SUNSCREEN AGENTS
Sunscreen agents are the active ingredients in sunscreens that protect the skin from harmful
ultraviolet (UV) radiation. They can be classified into two main categories:

1. Physical (Mineral) Sunscreen Agents

These act by reflecting and scattering UV radiation away from the skin. They are often used in
formulations for sensitive skin.

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Common Physical Filters

• Zinc Oxide (ZnO): Provides broad-spectrum protection (UVA & UVB), photostable, and
has anti-inflammatory properties.
• Titanium Dioxide (TiO₂): Effective against UVB and short-wave UVA; less whitening
effect than ZnO.

Pros: Broad-spectrum protection, photostable, non-irritating.

Cons: Can leave a white cast, thicker texture.

2. Chemical (Organic) Sunscreen Agents

These absorb UV radiation and convert it into heat, which is then released from the skin. They offer
lightweight formulations and higher SPF values.
Common Chemical Filters
UVB Filters (290-320 nm)
• Octinoxate (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) – Absorbs UVB but degrades in sunlight.
• Homosalate – Provides UVB protection; often combined with other filters.
• Octocrylene – UVB absorber that stabilizes other filters like Avobenzone.
UVA Filters (320-400 nm)
• Avobenzone – One of the best UVA filters, but needs stabilization.
• Tinosorb S & Tinosorb M – Broad-spectrum, highly stable, and commonly used in
European sunscreens.
• Mexoryl SX & Mexoryl XL – Stable UVA filters with excellent skin compatibility.
Broad-Spectrum Filters
• Oxybenzone – Absorbs UVA & UVB but has concerns over skin irritation and
environmental effects.
• Bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S) – Strong UVA & UVB absorber, photostable.

Pros: Lightweight, easy application, no white cast.

Cons: Some may degrade in sunlight, potential for skin irritation.

3. Hybrid Sunscreen Agents

Some formulations combine both physical and chemical filters for broad-spectrum protection,
enhanced stability, and improved cosmetic appeal.

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Formulation of Sunscreens

Sunscreens are formulated to protect the skin from harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation. A well-
balanced sunscreen formulation includes:
1. Active Ingredients (UV Filters)
These are the core components that provide sun protection:
• Physical (Mineral) Filters: Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide – reflect and scatter UV
radiation.
• Chemical Filters: Avobenzone, Octinoxate, Oxybenzone, Homosalate, Octocrylene –
absorb and dissipate UV radiation.
• Broad-Spectrum Combinations: Many formulations use a mix of physical and chemical
filters to cover UVA and UVB ranges effectively.

2. Base Ingredients
These form the carrier for the active ingredients and determine the product's texture and stability:
• Emollients: Silicones, esters, or oils to enhance spreadability and skin feel.
• Emulsifiers: Help blend water and oil phases in creams and lotions (e.g., polysorbates,
lecithin).
• Thickeners & Stabilizers: Carbomers, xanthan gum, or silica to maintain consistency.

3. Functional & Aesthetic Additives

• Antioxidants: Vitamin E, Green Tea Extract – prevent oxidative damage.
• Moisturizers: Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid – improve hydration.
• Preservatives: Prevent microbial growth (e.g., parabens, phenoxyethanol).
• Fragrances & Colorants: For consumer appeal (optional, as some users prefer fragrance-
free formulas).

4. Water Resistance Agents

Polymers like acrylates help the sunscreen stay on the skin longer, especially in water or sweat-
prone conditions.

Formulation Challenges
• Photo-stability: Some chemical filters degrade with sun exposure and require stabilizers.
• Skin Compatibility: Avoiding irritation, especially for sensitive skin types.
• SPF Testing & Regulatory Compliance: Sunscreens must meet SPF and broad-spectrum
protection standards as per regulatory bodies (FDA, EU, etc.).

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