Textile Product Design and Development

Prof. R Chattopadhyay
Department of Textile and Fibre Engineering
Indian Institute of Technology - Delhi

Lecture - 04
Specification Development

(Refer Slide Time: 00:30)

We are going to discuss specification development. What is specification? The specification

precisely describes the product from the viewpoint of performance, ergonomics, aesthetics, safety,
disposal, cost, etc. We have discussed the customer needs, and specifications are translations of
customer needs in terms of technical needs. A set of specifications is needed to translate or
transform into technical terms. These specifications can include aspects like ergonomics, safety,
maintenance, and disposal, all of which are part of the specifications of the product.
(Refer Slide Time: 02:02)

Each specification needs to have a metric and its value. For example, consider the strength of a
fabric: "strength" is the metric, and if the fabric can withstand 150 kgf, then 150 kg is the value.
The unit can also be in ‘N’. So, "strength" is the metric, and 150 kgf is the value.

(Refer Slide Time: 03:03)

How do you develop specifications? The process starts with identifying the need, which is the
starting point. Then, you identify the metrics for these needs and assign values to them. Without
these values, designing is not possible. Once the values are assigned to the different needs, they
become the specifications. For each need, there must be a corresponding metric and value.
Different needs will have different metrics and values, and these make up the complete set of
specifications.

(Refer Slide Time: 04:17)

The most important aspect is translating the needs into specifications. Customer needs are usually
expressed in layman's terms, which offer little guidance for designing and engineering a product.
On the other hand, specifications provide precise, measurable details about the product. This set
of specifications is essential before starting the actual design process and is expected to meet the
customer's needs. So, keeping the customer's needs in mind, the specifications must be established
to ensure they satisfy all the customer's needs.

For example, if a customer says their winter jacket isn't warm enough, that's the customer
statement. The need is that a jacket must provide adequate warmth. The corresponding
specification for warmth is insulation. The insulation unit is either in ‘tog’ or ‘clo’. While the
metric and unit are clear, the specific value needs to be assigned. For this, we need to determine
the insulation value of the existing jacket in ‘tog’ or ‘clo’ units. Then, we assess how much
insulation is required to ensure the jacket meets the customer's need for warmth.
(Refer Slide Time: 06:40)

The required insulation value depends on the climate in which the customer is using the jacket. A
higher insulation value is necessary for someone in a mountainous area with lower temperatures.
In contrast, the insulation requirement is less for persons in milder temperatures. The "need" can
also be referred to as "performance characteristics". These characteristics describe the intended
functions of the product and the user's expectations. Sometimes, the designer can identify or assign
the various characteristics that should be present in a product. For example, the primary
performance characteristic of a raincoat.

The primary performance characteristic of a raincoat is waterproof capability. Because from the
product's name, a raincoat must protect the wearer from rain. Therefore, the product must be
waterproof, the first and foremost performance criterion or characteristic. The other performance
characteristics may be important for different products. For example, the performance
characteristic of a fireman’s uniform is flame retardancy, which should resist fire when a fireman
is exposed to fire. Durability is crucial for bedsheets used in hotels or hospitals because they need
to withstand frequent laundering and heavy use. In contrast, for domestic use, the focus might be
more on comfort and aesthetic qualities rather than extreme durability.

Why did it need to be more durable? Durability is important for bed sheets used in hospitals and
hotels because they are washed frequently. Durability is a performance characteristic which is
difficult to measure and depends on several factors. So, what parameters are going to affect the
durability of a product? For apparel products, style and fit are highly desirable characteristics, but
they are challenging to define and measure. These are the certain performance characteristics that
customers expect in a product, and they are difficult to measure. Similarly, style is also difficult to
measure. The pride in owning something is indeed difficult to measure. Fit, on the other hand, can
be measured to some extent. These are some examples of performance characteristics of the most
important needs of some products.

(Refer Slide Time: 10:54)

When developing target specifications, we first define the ideal requirements without worrying
about current technological limitations. Some specifications may not be achieved, and some
exceed depending upon the product concept. It is also possible that some specifications may be
achievable, and some may not be achieved. Even so, we should start with what we call target
specifications. Since some of these may not be achievable, the target specifications might need to
be refined after the product concept is developed. So, once the concept is developed, some of the
specifications are difficult to achieve with the existing product concept.

In that case, there are two options: either change the concept to meet the target specifications or
adjust the specifications themselves. The choice depends on various factors that need to be
considered. The key point is that target specifications may need to be modified or refined based
on the product concept.

(Refer Slide Time: 13:14)

To establish target specifications, the first step is to prepare a list of metrics that address various
needs. Start by identifying the customer's needs and then translate these into the technical needs
of the product. For each of these technical needs, determine the corresponding metric that satisfies
them. Next, benchmarking information is gathered by collecting data on the metrics used by
competitors to satisfy similar needs. Then, both ideal and marginally acceptable target values for
each metric are set, establishing a range: an ideal value that is preferable to achieve and a
marginally acceptable value, even if it falls.

After setting the values, it is important to reflect on the results and the process to finalize the target
specifications. Marginal access values are the minimum that should be achieved and should be less
than that. Otherwise, the product is not going to function, or it is not going to sell. Ideal values
may be slightly higher than this value. We must have ideal values and marginally acceptable values
for different needs. Steps for establishing target specifications include the need to use metrics and
metrics to value the metric, the collection of benchmark information for finding the value of the
metric, and calculation, which may be based on analytical and statistical models. What are the
values of this metric? The real challenge lies in collecting benchmarking information. Analyzing
the take competitor's products by testing them to find their values. Alternatively, a mathematical
model or any other available analytical model can be used.

(Refer Slide Time: 16:45)

The first step is to prepare a list of metrics. This requires a deep understanding of how needs relate
to corresponding metrics. The relationship between need and the metrics is central to the concept
of specifications. The person with the domain knowledge can determine which metrics are needed
to satisfy each specific need. What are the corresponding metrics for it? For each need, consider
the precise measurable properties or characteristics of the product that reflect how well it satisfies
that need. For example, consider the need for comfort in a uniform. Comfort is a general term and
can be subjective, making it difficult to measure or quantify. Why is it important? Because comfort
is a function of breathability.

Breathability refers to how well moisture vapour, and air can pass through the fabric. So, comfort
depends upon breathability, which is a very general term. In scientific terms, this is moisture
vapour transmission and air permeability through the fabric or through the garment. Comfort in a
garment can also be affected by ventilation. In garment design, ventilation plays a key role in
comfort by allowing moisture-laden air near the skin to escape through vents. Additionally, the fit
of the garment is important in the case of a uniform; if it is a tight fit or loose fit, it also affects
comfort.
Several factors influence comfort. It is a function of breathability, which in turn is a function of
moisture vapour and air permeability, ventilation, and fit. This illustrates that a single need, like
comfort, can be assessed through multiple metrics. For comfort, these metrics include
breathability, ventilation, fit, and stretchability properties.

(Refer Slide Time: 21:23)

Following are the guidelines for developing a list of metrics. First, the metric should be complete.
Each need should ideally have at least one corresponding metric. The value of this metric should
ideally correlate perfectly with the need. However, for some needs, like comfort, multiple metrics
may be required, while for others, there may be a single metric. Metrics should be dependent and
not independent variables. Since a metric reflects the product's overall performance, it depends on
various other properties or construction parameters of a fabric or garment. By using a dependent
variable for the specification, designers have the freedom to achieve the specification using the
best possible approach.

The designer has the flexibility to meet a specific metric through various combinations of factors.
For example, if the goal is to achieve a certain strength in a yarn, such as 300 grams of force, this
strength can be attained by adjusting the strength of the fibres used. So, there are many variables
that can be used to achieve the target strength of the yarn. For instance, the strength can be varied
by changing the fibre strength, twist or yarn counts. Using these different combinations will
produce the yarn to satisfy the requirement of a certain strength. Next, some needs may not be
translated into quantifiable metrics. For example, the pride someone feels in owning a suit, a car,
or a wristwatch. So, how do we quantify pride? This is very difficult.

What could be the metrics related to pride? This is a challenge because while the pride in owning
a suit, car, or wristwatch is important, it is difficult to quantify. However, this feeling can still be
a crucial part of the design. A design engineer must create products that evoke a sense of pride in
the owner or user. In such cases, the metric for pride would be subjective and might be assessed
by a panel of judges. Here, there are the things which may affect the pride. This type of attribute,
like pride in owning something, is not easily measurable. To assess it, we would typically ask
people directly about how much pride they feel in owning the product. Since this is highly
subjective, it would often require evaluation by a panel of experts who are familiar with the area.

In some cases, the cost of the product could be a metric, as a higher price might contribute to a
sense of pride, making the owner feel unique because others might not be able to afford it.
Therefore, a person may feel a sense of pride in owning something expensive because it sets them
apart, knowing that others cannot easily afford it.
(Refer Slide Time: 26:51)

People often feel proud when they own an apple computer, and apple has successfully used this
for their marketing. The next thing is a need-metric matrix of work wear. This is the first thing that
the designer must develop. This matrix lists the needs in the first column. Different metrics or
properties of the product are listed in the remaining columns of the matrix. The idea is to connect
each need with the relevant properties. These properties are classified as transmission properties,
thermal properties, chemical properties, mechanical properties, and aesthetic properties. Garment-
specific characteristics are also included if the product is a garment, like workwear. Additionally,
maintenance aspects, such as washability, are also considered.

The different metrics have been classified, and the first need is comfortable to wear and work. This
is a key requirement for the persons using workwear. Certain properties are essential to meet this
need. For example, moisture permeability, air permeability, and resistance to heat are all important
factors that contribute to making the workwear comfortable for the user. Additionally, ventilation
is important from the garment's perspective, as it allows for proper air circulation. The number of
pockets is also important, as they need to be sufficient for carrying tools. The fit of the garment is
another key factor. On the right-hand side, we list these properties, and whenever a property is
relevant to the need, we mark it. Thus, we can see that the comfort of wearing and working depends
on these specific aspects, which are the relevant metrics for achieving this need.
We focus on the relevant properties for the second need, which is protection from acid, heat, and
abrasive damage. Resistance to heat is important, so we mark that. Resistance to acid is also
crucial, so we tick that as well. Abrasion resistance, which is a mechanical property, is necessary,
so it gets a tick too. Snag resistance is another key factor, so it is marked as well. If the remaining
properties are not relevant, we simply leave them unmarked. These properties are crucial for
ensuring protection from acid, heat, and abrasive damage. Another important need is durability.
When we purchase something, we generally expect it to be durable. Some people might expect a
product to last for one year, while others might hope for three or even five years. Because of this,
durability cannot be measured.

The corresponding metric that helps us make a product durable is abrasion resistance. abrasion
resistance, which can be measured, so it gets a tick. Another important metric is the tear strength
of the fabric, which is also a mechanical property. However, air permeability and moisture
permeability do not influence durability. Thus, you cannot mark a tick under the transmission
properties of the fabric for durability. Durability also depends on colour fastness because if the
colour fades, we often reject the product, even if it is still mechanically strong. If the product no
longer looks good due to colour fading, we tend to discard it.

Therefore, colour fastness can also affect durability. If the colour fades too quickly, the product is
considered less durable. Seam strength is another important factor. We can understand which
metrics satisfy each need by examining these aspects and marking them in a chart. This task
requires domain knowledge, so someone with expertise in the field is essential for identifying and
evaluating the relevant metrics.
(Refer Slide Time: 33:24)

The next step is the collection of competitive benchmarking information, which means assigning
specific values to the metrics. For example, if air permeability of a fabric is required, first, we must
find out the desired value that helps design a fabric that meets the required air permeability. To
assign specific values, competitive benchmarking information must be collected. So, unless the
product enjoys complete monopoly, a comparison between the new and existing products is to be
carried out.

This involves buying the products made by different manufacturers and testing the relevant
properties. So, a chart with metrics and values of the competitive product needs to be made.
Sometimes, the values must be determined analytically or by carrying out experiments. This could
involve using instruments for direct measurements or conducting specially designed experiments
to obtain the necessary values.
(Refer Slide Time: 35:16)

The next step involves setting ideal and marginally acceptable target values. The ideal value
represents the best possible result the team hopes to achieve, while the marginally acceptable value
is the minimum standard needed for the product to be commercially viable. Falling below this
marginal value might render the product unsellable or commercially unfeasible.

(Refer Slide Time: 36:09)

There are five different ways of expressing the values of the metric. One way is "At least X", which
sets a lower bound for the metric, meaning that values higher than ‘X’ are also acceptable and
better. For example, if the strength of a fabric is specified as "at least 3.5 kgf", it is acceptable to
have any fabric with a strength greater than 3.5 kgf. So, “At least X” becomes a lower bound, and
“At most X” is the upper bound. The "At most X" type of value sets an upper limit for a metric,
whereas lower values are also better. For example, faults in the fabric. If this many faults become
acceptable, if less than that, it is also better. So, if it comes to the level of faults, then this is “At
most X” which indicates the upper bound.

The "between X and Y" type of value sets both an upper and a lower limit for a metric. This may
also happen in some situations where there is an upper bound and a lower bound, which means the
value of the metric must lie between these two limits; neither should it exceed nor should it fall
below the lower bound. “Exactly X” establishes a target of a particular value of a metric. This type
of specification is important to avoid because it puts constraints on the design. When a precise
value is set, it restricts the designer, who must then meet that exact value. The exact value is almost
difficult to achieve.

All textile products are basically variable in nature. Properties always vary slightly, so we measure
coefficient of variation (CV) values. This is because the properties of fibres and filaments are not
identical and go through many processes. Finally, whatever is produced out of it, whether a
garment, fabric or another textile product, always has some variability. Setting a fixed value as a
target is nearly impossible to achieve. So, in such a metric, the value of the metric should give a
range for some flexibility. Some metrics have discrete values rather than continuous values. For
example, the number of faults is discrete, while strength, extension, and modulus are continuous
values.
(Refer Slide Time: 41:22)

To compare metrics from different manufacturers, collect data from products made by companies
like ‘A’, ‘B’, ‘C’, and ‘D’. Create a chart with the metrics for each company, as shown here. This
will allow you to compare the values effectively. The comparison gives which company provides
the best and lowest values for each metric. By examining the range of values, we can use this data
to set specifications for the product we want to design.

(Refer Slide Time: 42:33)

To set final specifications, use five expressions: ‘greater than X’, ‘less than X’, ‘between X and
Y’, and so on. After setting these target specifications, consider the technological constraints and
expected production costs. What are the technological constraints that we must achieve those
specifications? First, we develop a set of specifications. Then, we analyse if there are technological
constraints, such as a lack of necessary machines. Similarly, another aspect will be the cost to
ensure that the product can be sold to customers.

Considering these factors, the specifications are revised. Finalizing specifications can be
challenging and often requires iteration. Trade-offs between technical performance, metrics, and
cost become necessary since achieving the best of all metrics may be difficult. We need to make
trade-offs between technical performance metrics and cost. It's important to consider both technical
aspects and cost. How is the trade-off resolved?

(Refer Slide Time: 45:14)

We understand the specifications for jute bags, which are technical products used for transporting
grains, sugars, and similar items. Real value specification is stated in this slide. One specification
relates to the dimensions of the bag, such as length and width. These dimensions determine the
volume, which in turn affects how much grain the bag can hold, whether it is 30 or 40 kg of sugar,
rice, or other grains. Therefore, the size is specified in terms of these dimensions. Specifications
include tolerances for sizes like ‘Type A’ and ‘Type B’. For example, a length of 94 cm is not
fixed; it can vary by plus or minus 4 cm, meaning it could be slightly longer or shorter but not less
than a certain minimum.

Similarly, an outside width of 57 cm has a tolerance of plus 4 cm, so it can be up to 61 cm. Any
width between 57 and 61 cm is acceptable, but it must not be less than 57 cm, which sets a lower
bound. They also specify the ends and picks per dm, which refers to the density of threads. This is
important because the thread density affects how tightly the fabric is woven and whether grains
can escape through any gaps. The gap between the threads needs to be adjusted based on the size
of the grains to prevent them from escaping, which is related to the cover factor of the fabric.
Additionally, the weight of the bag is specified with a range of plus 8% and minus 6%, allowing
for some variability. The mass of the bag is given because it indicates how much fibre is used,
which affects the expected strength.

The specifications also include strength values: warp strength is 1570 N (160 kgf), and weft
strength is also specified. Different values are provided for Type A and Type B bags. In this case,
the customer has directly provided the specifications. There is no process of translating customer
needs into product needs and then into specifications. Instead, the manufacturer simply follows the
specifications given by the customer to produce the product. Designing and manufacturing are
different aspects. A designer sets specifications, such as warp strength and ends per density. The
designer must then determine the appropriate fibre strength needed to meet these specifications.
The designer must select the fibre strength to achieve the required warp and weft strength. They
will then instruct the manufacturer to use this fibre, process it into yarns of the specified count,
produce a fabric with the stated end and pick densities.
(Refer Slide Time: 51:03)

The specified dimensions of the bag are suitable for packing coarse grains like wheat and rice. For
finer grains, you would need a higher end density or pick density to prevent grains from escaping
through the gaps between the threads. This is just one example of how specifications can vary
based on the type of grain.

(Refer Slide Time: 51:37)

Even with specifications, we must consider technological constraints and cost. To finalize the
specifications, we must develop a technical model and a cost model for the product. We refine the
specifications later and make necessary trade-offs. We need to build two models: a technical model
of the product and a cost model.

(Refer Slide Time: 52:40)

The technical model predicts metric values based on design variables. Inputs are the design
variables, and outputs are the metrics values. Analytical models might be available for some
metrics; if not, physical models are built and tested. An example is fatigue behaviour. There may
not be an analytical model for predicting the fatigue behaviour of textile products. For example,
fatigue behaviour is crucial for products like tyre cords, which experience repeated stretching in a
running tyre, and textile ropes, which also undergo repeated stress. When analytical models are
not available, physical models are used and tested to ensure the durability of designs. Fatigue
causes continuous degradation, eventually leading to failure. In such cases, the Design of
Experiments (DOE) can also be employed to evaluate performance.
(Refer Slide Time: 54:54)

If the analytical model of garment comfort is available, the input is the design variable, and the
output is performance specifications. It uses design variables (like fabric weight, cover factor, and
size pattern) to predict performance specifications. The output variables are in terms of garment
behaviour, such as fit, ventilation, moisture vapour permeability and air permeability. With a
model that relates design parameters to moisture vapour permeability, we can adjust the input
values to see how they affect the output. We can find the combination that meets the target output
value by changing these variables. We use the model to find the right design variables for different
performance needs.

By adjusting these variables and observing how the output changes, we can determine the
combination that meets the performance specifications. This process helps in optimizing the design
based on the model
(Refer Slide Time: 57:04)

For sewing thread, specifications might include strength, elongation, friction value, or breakage
rate. Design variables affecting strength could include fibre strength and yarn structural parameters
like count and twist. Chemical processing parameters may not be relevant for strength. For
strength, we can use parameters like fibre fineness, strength and yarn structural factors such as
count, twist, and number of plies. By using a model that relates these variables to strength, we can
determine the combination of design variables needed to achieve the desired strength.

Similarly, for elongation and friction, different design variables come into play. Friction, for
instance, depends on chemical processing parameters like the amount of wax used and whether the
thread is made from filaments or spun yarns. These variables help predict performance
specifications based on the design inputs. To predict these performance specifications, one either
needs to build an analytical model or use existing models found in research, textbooks, or literature.
(Refer Slide Time: 59:17)

For example, in parachute fabric, design variables include fibre and yarn parameters, fabric
structure, and finishing treatments. If available, analytical, statistical, neural network-based, or
geometric models can be used to determine how these variables affect the weight of the fabric.
Using these models, one can check if the fabric weight and air drag meet the specified values. By
exploring different combinations of design variables, you can determine if a particular set of
specifications is technically feasible. If none of the combinations of design variables meets the
specified values, the specifications might be impossible to achieve. For example, if you require a
yarn with extremely high strength, such as 30 or 40 g/tex, none of the design variable combinations
can achieve this. If you specify a yarn that needs to be both highly irregular and extremely strong,
this may not be feasible.

Combining such requirements, like high irregularity and high strength, often makes the
specifications unfeasible, even with a model. There is no combination of design variables that
achieves both high strength and high irregularity; the specification is technically not feasible. For
example, if you expect a cotton yarn to have a strength beyond what cotton can naturally provide,
it is not achievable given the material strength limitations. This modelling and analysis help ensure
that specifications are feasible. If the analysis shows that certain specifications cannot be achieved,
it indicates that those specifications are not feasible and should be revised.
(Refer Slide Time: 1:03:02)

The cost model helps determine the cost of the product. It includes three components: material
cost, manufacturing cost, and overhead cost. The cost information should include both high and
low estimates for each component.

(Refer Slide Time: 1:03:35)

With the cost model, refine the specifications by making necessary trade-offs. Feasible
combinations of numerical values of design parameters are to be determined using a technical
model and its cost implications. Assess the cost implications for these feasible combinations. A
competitive and trade-off map is to be developed. we should use the cost model and then find a
competitive map. In an iterative fashion, the specification that most favourably positions the
product relative to the competitors satisfies customer needs and ensures adequate profit is finally
chosen. So, when choosing specifications for a new product, consider these three aspects, i.e.,
satisfying the customer's need and how the product is going to be placed relative to the
competitor’s product. Will it ensure adequate profit from manufacturing and selling? All these
three questions need to be answered before a company is going to venture out for a new design.

(Refer Slide Time: 1:05:49)

In a competitive or trade-off map, the x-axis represents performance (low to high), and the y-axis
represents cost (low to high). Performance vs cost has been plotted, and small circles on the map
show the positions of competitors. Each circle indicates where a competitor's product falls in terms
of performance and cost. For example, we have found out the performance level of six competitors.
and the corresponding cost. For example, competitor 1 has high performance and high cost;
competitor 2 has high performance and slightly lower cost than competitor 1. Charts like this can
be created, and curves can be drawn for the design. For our design concepts, Concept A and
Concept B, we plot their performance versus cost curves on the chart.

Concept A is represented by a dotted line, while Concept B is shown with a solid line. Alongside
this, we include the performance and cost values for different competitors. The curves drawn are
for different design concepts, design specifications are refined, and trade-offs can be made to
provide a performance advantage relative to the competitor. The other one is ideal values or
specifications. Ideal value shows the level of performance and, at this level of performance, what
the cost is going to be. If the marginal values are chosen, then the performance level and the
corresponding cost are mentioned here. Increasing the performance by choosing a certain
combination of specifications and determining the cost increase depends on whether concept A
design or concept B design. So, the curves indicate the performance level, whether it is above or
below the competitor’s performance, and the cost at that level. So, an analysis of this competitive
map helps in finalising the specifications.

(Refer Slide Time: 1:09:51)

Sometimes, the overall specification is divided into sub-system specifications, where there is
design complexity. For example, designing an aircraft is very complex. There are varieties of
components present. There are many designers involved in designing such a complex machine.
So, there is an overall system, and there are sub-systems. So, in some complex changing products,
such as smart battlefield uniforms. The total design is divided into several sub-system designs, and
specifications define each subsystem's development objectives and the product. This is required in
a very complex design process.
(Refer Slide Time: 1:10:49)

Examples of such a design include a smart battlefield uniform. The required technical
specifications are given in the slide, and the values are not stated. The technical aspects are the
ability to detect penetration of a projectile and monitor the body’s vital signs, heartbeat,
temperature, breathing frequency, physiological thermal protections, and resistance to petroleum
products, minimizing the signature detectability. From the ergonomics point of view, the uniform
should be lightweight, breathable, comfortable, easy to wear and take off and easy access to
wounds. In case of a wound or injury, the person should be able to access that wounded region.
Safety aspects can include flame retardancy, EMI shielding, maintenance, disposal, and cost.
Disposability should be nature-friendly and affordable.

We must find the corresponding design objectives and specifications for each aspect. Monitoring
body vital signs and then minimizing signature detectability are sub-system designs. So, the entire
design must be split into sub-system designs. For this sub-system, the objectives, requirements,
metrics, and values of metrics must be written, and then designing begins.
(Refer Slide Time: 1:13:12)

Another simple design is the baby diaper. Technical aspects could be absorbency, leak-proof and
lean, i.e., not very voluminous. Ergonomics point of view could be a soft, snug fit. The safety point
of view is to prohibit rash formations. Maintenance is not much because these are basically one-
use products. Disposal and cost should be non-polluted, and cost-wise, it should be affordable. So,
these are the requirements or needs of a baby diaper.

(Refer Slide Time: 1:13:57)

Similarly, the functional, ergonomic, and aesthetic needs of apparel fabrics are given in the slide.
In apparel fabrics, needs are also very important. We end this session on specification
development. Thank you.