What if I told you that in some states, there are hunting seasons set aside just

for hunters who use a special kind of firearm?

It’s true! That firearm is a muzzleloader. Muzzleloaders are firearms that you load
through the muzzle. They’re sometimes called black powder firearms,
even though most shooters choose to use modern, non-corrosive, black powder
substitutes. Muzzleloaders don’t take cartridges like most modern firearms.
Instead, each component of the load—primer, powder, patch or sabot, and bullet—has
to be loaded separately.
There’s a great tradition of hunting with muzzleloaders in the U.S. The pilgrims
who arrived in North America used muzzleloaders. So did mountain men and trappers.
You could become part of that tradition! It takes a little extra work to hunt with
a muzzleloader, but if you master this firearm, you could have the first pick of
bucks
in their prime season.

Muzzleloader Types:
Matchlock - 15th Century:
This is the oldest version of the muzzleloader. When you pulled the
trigger, it mashed a burning wick into a tray of powder.
That caused a charge inside the barrel to ignite, discharging the
firearm.
Wheel lock - 16th Century:
The wheel lock worked a bit like a cigarette lighter, with a spinning
wheel that created a spark to light the powder.
Flintlock - 17th Century:
Mountain men carried flintlocks, which used a flint stone held in a
clamp. When the stone struck a piece of steel called the frizzen,
it caused a shower of sparks to fall on loose powder in the priming
pan. The charge caught fire, sending a flame into the barrel that ignited the full
powder charge.
Percussion Rifle (Caplock) - 18th Century:
This rifle used the first version of what we now call the primer. It
was a percussion cap coated inside with a chemical that exploded when struck.
When the hammer struck the cap, a spark traveled through the flash hole
to the powder in the barrel.
Many modern muzzleloaders now use rifle and shotgun primers, which
deliver hotter, more reliable ignition than percussion caps.
Modern Inline Muzzleloader:
many hunters use modern inline muzzleloaders, though some still choose
to hunt with flintlocks and caplocks. Some states limit the style of muzzleloaders
and components allowed for hunting, so be sure to check the regulations
for your location, season, and game!

Muzzleloader Parts:
Stock:
The stock is where you hold the muzzleloader. The stock also supports
the action and barrel.
The part you hold with your forward hand is the forearm or fore-end.
Your trigger hand holds the grip. The top of the grip is the tang.
The part that rests against your shoulder when you shoot is called the
butt.
Trigger:
The trigger is the system that holds and releases the firing pin. The
face of the trigger is what you pull to discharge the firearm,
and the trigger guard keeps the trigger from being pulled accidentally.
Sights:
The sights help you aim at your target. Muzzleloader rifles and pistols
use open sights as well as scopes. Muzzleloader shotguns use beads for sighting.
Some states limit which sights can be used, so check local laws!
 Safety:
For flintlocks and caplocks, the safety is the half-cock. This means
that when the hammer is cocked back half way, the muzzleloader won’t fire.
Modern inline muzzleloaders usually have a lever safety next to the
action. Some have a secondary safety that keeps the hammer from striking the
primer.
Action or Lock:
The action or lock is the mechanism that creates the spark, ignites the
powder, and fires the muzzleloader. Flintlock, caplock, and inline are all types of
actions.
Barrel Stamp:
The barrel stamp is information printed on the side of the barrel. It
tells you the caliber of the round ball or bullet to be used so you can be sure to
match the correct ball or bullet with the firearm.
Ramrod:
This is the strong, thin rod you use to load a muzzleloader. It pushes
the projectile down the barrel so it sits firmly against the powder charge.
You’ll learn more about how to load a muzzleloader in a few minutes.
Barrel:
The barrel is the long steel tube. The opening through the center is
called the bore. The projectile is forced through the barrel by expanding gas.
Muzzle:
The muzzle is where the projectile comes out. You should always point
the muzzle in a safe direction, even when the safety is engaged and the
muzzleloader isn't loaded.
Accessories:
In addition to the ramrod, a number of accessories are involved in
safely loading and unloading a muzzleloader. These include a powder measure, a
bullet starter,
jags, a patch grabber, nipple and breech plug wrenches, and breech plug
grease. Check your owner’s manual to see which tools you’ll need.

Use the Correct Powder for your Muzzleloader!!

Make sure you use the correct powder for your muzzleloader! Look at your
owner’s manual to find the recommended powder.
Don’t get confused: black powder substitutes made for muzzleloaders are
different from smokeless powders intended for centerfire cartridges and shotgun
shells.
Using the wrong kind of powder could badly damage the firearm and cause death
or serious injury.

How does a muzzleloader fire?

When you squeeze the trigger, the percussion cap is struck by the hammer and
creates a spark that travels through the flash hole.
The spark from the percussion cap ignites the powder.
The burning of the powder gives off gases that create pressure.
The pressure forces the bullet down the bore and out the muzzle.
Most modern inline muzzleloaders work in a similar way, except that instead
of a percussion cap they use a 209 shotshell primer.
The primer fits in an opening at the rear of the breech plug, and instead of
being struck by a hammer, it’s struck by a firing pin.

Powder & Bullets: What you ned to know

Black Powder:
type of propellant used in traditional muzzleloaders. It burns dirty
and is highly corrosive. Some traditionalists still prefer to use black powder in
their firearms.
Modern Substitutes:
such as Pyrodex, burn cleaner and are far less harsh. You can buy them
either as loose powder or in the form of premeasured pills or pellets.
If you're using a loose modern powder such as Pyrodex, you need to be
absolutely certain that it is NOT MODERN SMOKELESS POWDER (not meant for
muzzleloaders)!
Using it can severely damage the firearm and cause serious injury or
even death to you and others nearby!
Use only the volume (measured in grains) or the number of pellets
recommended for your firearm.
Bullets:
Early muzzleloading muskets and rifles used round lead balls as
projectiles. To insert the ball, a hunter would place it in the center of a greased
cloth patch and
push it down the barrel with the ramrod.
Today, modern inline muzzleloaders use conical bullets usually loaded
in a sabot.
The sabot is a kind of plastic cup that helps the bullet fit correctly
inside the bore. These bullets fly straighter and go a lot farther than traditional
balls.

Marking your Ramrod:

How do you tell if a muzzleloader is loaded?
It's not as simple as with other firearms. You'll need to slide a ramrod down
the barrel and see how far it goes.
A manufactured ramrod DOES NOT come with marks. You’ll need to mark it
yourself.
Unloaded Mark:
The unloaded mark shows that the firearm is empty.
To make the unloaded mark, first make sure your firearm is on
safe, not cocked, with no primer or cap. And, of course, it should be completely
unloaded.
Insert the ramrod until you can feel it sitting firmly at the
base of the barrel.
Then use a knife to carve a ring around the rod exactly where it
exits the muzzle. You may also choose to use tape or a pencil.
To check whether your mark is correct, hold the ramrod against
the outside of the barrel and make sure the distance from the mark to
the end of the rod stretches the full length of the barrel.
Loaded Mark:
The loaded mark shows that the firearm has a bullet and charge.
To place the loaded mark, load the charge and a single bullet
into the firearm—you’ll learn how in a minute.
Then press your rod down the barrel in repeated, short strokes
until you can feel the bullet (or ball) make solid contact with the powder charge.
Use your knife to make a mark on the rod.
Double Loaded Danger:
If the rod stops before the loaded mark, you may have a double
load.
This is a dangerous situation, and you should get an experienced
muzzleloader shooter to help you unload safely.

Clean in a Snap!
An important step in prepping your muzzleloader is to clear the breech plug.
What's a breech plug?
It's the piece that sits between the base of the action and the barrel. The
flash hole goes through the breech plug, and this is where you’ll
place the primer before you fire a round. Oil deposits and other residues can
remain in the breech plug, so you'll need to clear it by snapping a primer.
How to snap a primer:
To snap a primer, safely confirm that the firearm is unloaded, then place a
primer in the breech and close the action.
Point the firearm in a safe direction, disengage the safety, and pull the
trigger.
The spark from the primer will clear the flash hole of any leftover residue.
Remove and discard the spent primer.
You may want to do this a couple times.

Loading a Muzzleloader:
First, check your barrel stamp and make sure you have the correct caliber and
style of round ball or bullet.
Then check that the safety is engaged. The Muzzleloader should be uncocked,
with no primer or cap.
Insert the ramrod until it sits firmly at the base of the barrel. Check your
unloaded mark to confirm that the muzzleloader is not already loaded.
Then position the muzzleloader with its butt on the ground and barrel
pointing straight up. Pour the measured powder or place the substitute powder
pellets in the muzzle.
Tap the butt lightly on the ground so all the powder falls to the breech
plug. Then place the bullet into the muzzle. Use your thumb to press it in.
Then use your bullet starter to push it farther. With your ramrod, push the
bullet all the way down the barrel until you feel it securely contact the powder.
Use the loaded mark on your ramrod to confirm that you’ve pushed the bullet
far enough.
This next part is important:
Be SURE there is no space between the base of the bullet and the powder.
Firing with the bullet partway up the barrel can cause serious damage to your
firearm and severe injury to you and those around you!
Remove the ramrod and stow it. Pointing the muzzleloader in a safe direction,
open the action and insert the primer into the breech.
Or, depending on the muzzleloader, put a cap on the nipple.
The muzzleloader is loaded and ready to fire. After every shot or two, you’ll
need to swab the barrel with a lightly lubed patch to clean it before firing again.
If your muzzleloader misfires, wait at least two minutes before removing the
bullet.

Important Safety!
You need to make absolutely sure there’s no space between the powder and the
sabot or bullet. Firing the muzzleloader while the bullet is partway up the barrel
can badly damage the firearm and cause serious injury to you and anyone
nearby!

Cleaning:
Unlike a modern rifle or shotgun using ammunition with clean-burning
smokeless powder, a muzzleloader uses powders that create a lot of smoke and burn
less clean.
After just one shot, your barrel is fouled with unburned powder and other
corrosive gunk that will harm or even destroy your gun if you don’t remove it.
See this dirty patch? This is what was in the barrel of this muzzleloader
after just one shot!

Modern synthetic muzzleloader powders are less corrosive than traditional

black powder and leave less residue in the gun. But that doesn’t mean you can clean
your muzzleloader
less often. Even at the shooting range you’ll want to swab the bore with a
lightly lubed patch after each shot or two to keep gunk or other fouling from
building up and
affecting accuracy.

Before cleaning any muzzleloader, carefully read the owner’s manual. It will
provide the exact steps to follow and list the tools and materials you’ll need.
We’ll clean a modern inline muzzleloader here to show you the basic steps of
cleaning a muzzleloader.
Start the cleaning process by making sure the safety is engaged and the gun
is completely unloaded—no powder charge or projectile in the barrel, and no cap or
primer in place.

Next, remove the breech plug and let it soak in a shallow container filled
with solvent while you work on cleaning the rest of the gun.
Start the bore-cleaning process by running a patch with solvent through the
length of the barrel about five or six times.
Then switch to a clean patch also loaded with solvent. Repeat the process
until patches come out clean. Then use a brush to clean the breech end of the
barrel.

Next, use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to remove the barrel from the stock.
Clean areas that have fouling.
Then lubricate all of the external metal parts before replacing the stock.
Clean the breech plug carefully with solvent to remove all fouling,
paying special attention to the flash hole and threads. Once the breech plug
is clean, reinstall it into the breech after lightly
coating the threads with an anti-seize lubricant so it doesn’t become stuck.
Finish the cleaning process by lightly lubricating all
metal areas of the gun and wiping everything down to remove fingerprints.