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Technology Handbook

4. TEXTILE TESTING

Common test parameters for fibre and yarn testing / sorted by instruments

4.1. Parameters for fibre testing / sorted by instruments

4.1.1. AFIS Neps, Length & Trash

[Link]. AFIS-N (Neps)

Weight [g] Sample weight
Nep [µm] Average nep size
Nep [Cnt/g] Number of neps per gram
SCN [µm] Mean Size of Seed Coat Neps
SCN [Cnt/g] Number of Seed coat neps per gram

[Link]. AFIS- L&M (Length and Maturity)

N By number
W By weight
L (n/w) [mm / in] Mean Fibre length
L (n/w) CV [%] Coefficient of variation of Fibre length
SFC (n/w) [%] Short Fibre Content, fibres that are shorter than ½ inch or 12.7 mm
UQL (n/w) [mm / in] Upper Quartile Length = Fibre length, that 25% of fibres have 25% are
longer than this value
5% (n) [mm / in] Fibre length, 5% are longer than this value (by number)
2.5% (n) [mm / in] Fibre length, 2.5% are longer than this value (by weight)
Fine [mtex] Fibre fineness
IFC [%] Immature Fibre Content
Mat Ratio [] Maturity Ratio

[Link]. AFIS- L&D (Length and Diameter)

D (n) [µm] Fibre diameter (sometimes in mm!)
D (n) CV [%] Coefficient of variation of diameter

[Link]. AFIS-T (Trash)

Total [Cnt/g] Number of all trash particles
Mean Size [µm] Mean trash particle size
Dust [Cnt/g] Dust particles per gram (< 500 µm)
Trash [Cnt/g] Trash particles per gram (> 500 µm)
V.F.M. [%] Visible Foreign Matter
T.F.M. [%] Total Foreign Matter = visible trash content
Same as VFM (dep. of software version)

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[Link]. AFIS-S (Fibre length for man made fibres)

L (n) [mm / in] Mean fibre length
L (n) CV [%] Coefficient of variation of Fibre length
M-L (n) [mm / in] Mono Length = Cut length of fibres
M-L (n) CV [%] Coefficient of variation of Mono Length
% short X [%] Percentage of fibres that are shorter than the length X (selectable)

Y% [mm / in] Fibre length that Y % of fibres exceed (selectable)

D (n) [µm] Mean fibre diameter
D (n) CV [%] Coefficient of variation of fibre diameter
Fine [mtex / den] Fibre fineness
Fine CV [%] Coefficient of variation of fibre fineness

4.1.2. Almeter 101 - Capacitive fibre length measurement

N By number -> Hauteur in woolen area
W By weight -> Barbe in woolen area
ML (N) [mm] Mean Fibre length by number
CV (N) [%] Coefficient of variation of fibre length by number
SF (N) <12.5 [%] Percentage of fibres that are shorter than 12.5 mm (by number)
mm
L (N) 1% [mm] Fibre length by number that 1% of fibres exceed
ML (W) [mm] Mean fibre length by weight
CV (W) [%] Coefficient of variation of fibre length by weight
SF (W) < 12.5 [%] Percentage of fibres that are shorter than 12.5 mm (by weight)
mm
L (W) 25% [mm] Fibre length by weight, that 25% of fibres exceed Classer s Staple

4.1.3. Single Fibre Measurement Manual Staple

Max. Fibre [mm] Longest fibre in mm
length
Mean Fibre [mm] Mean fibre length in mm
length
CV Fibre length [%] Coefficient of variation of fibre length

4.1.4. FCT Stickiness, Neps, Trash

Stickiness [1/g] Number of sticky points per gram
Neps [1/g Number of neps per gram
SCF [1/g Number of seed coat neps per gram (Seed Coat Fragments)
Trash [1/g Number of trash particles per gram
CV Neps [%] Coefficient of Variation on Neps per gram

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4.1.5. F T Stickiness, Neps, Trash, Fineness

Mic [µg/inch²] Micronaire
Fin [mtex] Fibre fineness in mtex
Mat [] Maturity
Stickiness [1/g] Number of sticky points per gram
Cnts/gr
Stickiness [] Grading of sticky points (combination of number and size)
Grade
Neps Cnts/gr [1/g] Number of neps per gram
[Link] [1/g] Number of seed coat neps per gram
Cnts/gr
S.C. Neps [] Area of seed coat neps in mm² per gram
Area/gr
Trash Cnts/gr [1/g] Number of trash particles per gram
Trash Area/gr Area of trash particles in mm² per gram
Dust Cnts/gr [1/g] Number of dust particles per gram

4.1.6. Fehling Chemical determination of stickiness

Honeydew [mg/100g] Sugar content in mg

4.1.7. Graf SCT- Stickiness Thermodetector

Number of [] Number of counted sticky points per measurement (per 2.5g)
Sticky points

4.1.8. H2SD High Speed Stickiness Detector - Stickiness

Total [1/g] Total count of sticky points per gram (all sample sizes)
Small [1/g] Number of sticky points of the size 1.7 - 9.0 mm²
Medium [1/g] Number of sticky points of the size 9.0 - 18.0 mm²
Large [1/g] Number of sticky points larger than the size 18.0 mm²

4.1.9. HVI High Volume Instrument Tenacity, Fineness, Color

[Link]. HVI -910 (ICC-cal) Fibre length measurement, Bundle strength

Len 1 or [mm/in] 50% span length: Fibre length, that 50% of fibres exceed
SL 50%
Len 2 or [mm/in] 2.5% span length: Fibre length, that 2.5 % of fibres exceed
SL 2.5% Classer s Staple
Unif [%] UR: Uniformity Ratio, Relation of Len1/Len2 *100 = UR - (Value around 50)
Strength [gf/tex] Breaking force of the fibre bundle divided by fibre fineness on ICC level
Elong [%] Breaking elongation of fibre bundle

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Additional values for HVI

Amount [] Parameter describing the optically measured number of fibres in the bundle
at the time of break
Work peak [J] Work to peak (area below stress-strain-curve up to peak point)
Work Tot [J] Work total = complete area below stress-strain curve
Crimp [%] Fibre crimp
Modulus [N] Material constant describing the tensile behavior of the fibre bundle
S.F. or SFI [%] Short Fibre Index (calculated)
SCI [] Spinning Consistency Index Calculated out of various parameters by
multiple regression. = Value for raw material and spinnability
CSP [] Count Strength Product theoretical skein strength of an Ne 16 yarn

[Link]. HVI -910 (HVI-cal) Fibre length measurement, Bundle strength

Len 1 [mm/in] ML: Mean Length - mean fibre length
Len 2 [mm/in] UHML: Upper Half Mean Length = Mean Length of the longest half (50%) of
fibres
Unif [%] UI: Uniformity Index, Relation of Len1/Len2 *100 =UI - (Value around 80)
Strength [gf/tex] Breaking force of the fibre bundle divided by fibre fineness on HVI level
Elong [%] Breaking elongation of fibre bundle

[Link]. HVI -920 Micronaire

Mic [µg/inch] Micronaire Parameter describing fibre fineness and maturity (via air flow
determined)

[Link]. HVI -930/35 Color and Trash

Rd [] Reflectance of the fibres, higher Rd values mean a higher color grade
+b [] Yellowness of the fibres (Nickerson/Hunter Scale)
C-G [] Color-Grade= Classing according given standard (e.g. US-Upland, US-Pima
or individual user specific standard)
Area [%] Area of the sample covered with trash particles
Cnt [] Number of trash particles on surface
Trash / Leaf [] Trash-Grade= Classing of trash content. Higher value -> more trash
particles

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[Link]. HVI - Spectrum (only HVI - Calibration)

Micronaire [µg/inch] Micronaire Parameter describing fibre fineness and maturity (determined
via air flow)
Maturity [] Maturity of cotton (calculated with algorithm)
Len [mm/in] UHML: Upper Half Mean Length = Mean Length of the longest half (50%) of
fibres
Amt [%] Parameter describing the optically measured number of fibres in the bundle
at the time of break
Unf [%] UI: Uniformity Index, Relation of Len1/Len2 *100 =UI - (Value around 80)
SFI [] Short Fibre Index (calculated)
Str [g/tex] Breaking force of the fibre bundle divided by fibre fineness (Mic) on HVI
level
Elg [%] Breaking elongation of fibre bundle
Rd Reflectance of the fibres, higher Rd values mean a higher color grade
+b Yellowness of the fibres (Nickerson/Hunter Scale)
C Grade Color-Grade= Classing according given standard (e.g. US-Upland, US-Pima
or individual user specific standard)
Tr Cnt [Cnt] Number of trash particles on surface
Tr Area [%] Area of the sample covered with trash particles
Tr Area Trash-Grade= Classing of trash content. Higher value -> more trash
particles
Moist [%] Moisture content of measured cotton
SCI [] Spinning Consistency Index Calculated out of various parameters by
multiple regression. = Value for raw material and spinnability
CSP [] Count Strength Product theoretical skein strength of an Ne 16 yarn

4.1.10. MDTA3 / ITV Trash content

Lint content [%] Percentage of lint fibres referring to whole sample after testing
Trash content [%] Percentage of removed trash particles (>500 µm)
Dust content [%] Percentage of dust particles (< 500 µm)
Fibre Fragments [%] Percentage of fibre fragments (250 - 500 µm)

4.1.11. NATI
Neps [Total] [Cnt] Number of all neps of all sizes ( Neps per gram,
depends on sample size!)
Neps [Cnt] Number of neps with the size of 0.5-0.7 mm
[ > 0.5 mm] (depends on sample size!)
Neps [Cnt] Number of neps with the size of 0.7-1.0 mm
[ > 0.7 mm] (depends on sample size!)
Neps [Cnt] Number of neps with the size larger than 1.0 mm
[ > 1.0 mm] depends on sample size!)
Trash [Cnt] Number of trash particles
[Total] (depends on sample size!)
Trash [Cnt] Number of trash particles with the size of 0.25 -0.5 mm
[> 0.25 mm] (depends on sample size!)
Trash [Cnt] Number of trash particles larger than 0.5 mm
[> 0.5 mm] (depends on sample size!)

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4.1.12. Parallex - Parallelism in Sliver

Lx [mm] Useable fibre length in mm

4.1.13. Pressley Bundle Strength

Pressley-Index [P.I.] Bundle strength in lbs per bundle weight in mg
Pressley [1000 lbs/inch²] Specific bundle strength per square inch

4.1.14. Rothschild Adhesive length (Tenacity)

Adhesive length [m] Resistance of the material whilst drafted. Length at which the sample would
tear below its own dead weight. [g/ktex]
Adhesive [cN] Mean Force during drafting
strength
CV [%] Variation of adhesive length

4.1.15. Shirley / Selecter Trash content of raw cotton

Start Weight [g] Sample weight before testing
Lint content [%] Percentage of Lint
Trash content [%] Percentage of Trash
Short fibres and [%] Percentage of fibre fragments and dust
dust
Cage loss [%] Loss between the weight before and after testing

4.1.16. Shirley FMT Maturity via Airflow

Maturity [] Maturity of cotton fibres
PM [%] Relation of lumen to diameter gives percent maturity

4.1.17. Stelometer Fibre Bundle Strength

Tenacity [g/tex] Breaking force of the fibre bundle divided by fibre fineness on ICC level
Elongation [%] Breaking elongation of fibre bundle

4.1.18. UT3 / UT4 Capacitive Sliver and Roving Unevenness

CVm with 25 [%] Coefficient of variation of mass unevenness
m/min

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4.1.19. Vibrojet Single fibre fineness and tenacity

Fineness [dtex] Fibre fineness in dtex

Strength [cN/tex] Fibre tenacity in cN/tex (Force divided by fineness)

Force [cN] Breaking force of single fibres

Elongation [%] Fibre elongation before break

Work done to [[Link]] Work to break (area below stress-strain-curve up to break point)
Break
Ten @ x % [cN/tex] Material constant on elongation behavior at e.g. 10% elongation
Young-M. [cN/tex] Young Modulus (Specific force at a certain point)

4.1.20. Vibrotex Single fibre crimp

Removing Crimp [%] Removing crimp is length extension divided by straightened length

Recovering [%] Fibre length difference between extension at 1 cN/tex and extension at 0.01
Crimp cN/tex divided by straightened length
Stability of crimp [%] Crimp stability is ratio of recovering crimp and removing crimp

Mk / Md Modulus values of crimp

Number of [1 / cm] Number of crimp bows per cm

bows

Min Minimal value

Max Maximal value

4.1.21. Vibroskop / gravimetrical fineness determination

Fineness [dtex / mtex] Fiber fineness in dtex or mtex
CV [%] Coefficient of variation of fibre fineness

4.1.22. Zweigle Twist in Roving

Clamp length [cm] Length that is clamped for twist determination
Twist [m-1] Turns of twist per 1 meter
CV [%] Coefficient of variation of twist measurement

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4.1.23. Zwick Tenacity in Fabrics

Chain Determination of values in chain direction
Weft Determination of values in chain direction
Clamping [cm] Clamping distance for tenacity determination
distance
Force [cN] Max Force at fabric break
Tenacity [cN/tex] Max Tenacity (Force per fineness) at fabric break
CV [%] Coefficient of variation
Elongation [%] Elongation at fabric break
CV Elongation [%] Coefficient of variation of Elongation

4.1.24. Zwick Adhesion Length (Tenacity)

Clamping [cm] Clamping distance for tenacity determination
distance
Force [cN] Max Force at Break
Tenacity [cN/tex] Max Tenacity at Break
CV [%] Coefficient of variation
Elongation [%] Elongation at Break
CV Elongation [%] Coefficient of variation of Elongation
Adhesive Length [m] Resistance of the material whilst drafted. Length at which the sample would
tear below its own dead weight. [g/ktex]

4.2. Parameters for yarn testing / sorted by instruments

4.2.1. Autosorter arn fineness

Yarn count [Ne/tex/Nm] Value in Ne [Hanks/lb = 768 m / 453 g], in tex [g/1000m] or in Nm [m/g]
CV t [%] Coefficient of variation between the different yarns

4.2.2. OPTRA- optical trash content in yarn

Particles / Sum of particles in the yarn of all size per 1000 m
1000m
Class A [0.05 - 0.3 mm²] Number of Trash particles in the size of Class A
Class B [0.3 - 0..7 mm²] Number of Trash particles in the size of Class B
Class B [0.7 - 3 mm²] Number of Trash particles in the size of Class C

4.2.3. Reutlinger Webtester - Simulation of yarn abrasion at the weaving loom

Tours until [U/min] Number of tours until yarn no. x. breaks (x = 1-9)
break x

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4.2.4. Uster Classimat arn faults

Fault / 1000 m Length of fault in cm Change of mass in %
A1 < 1 cm + 45 to- +100 %
A2 +100 to +150 %
A3 +150 to 250 %
A4 +250 to 400 %

B1 1 to 2 cm +45 to +100 %
B2 +100 to +150 %
B3 +150 to 250 %
B4 +250 to 400 %

C1 2 to 4 cm +45 to +100 %
C2 +100 to +150 %
C3 +150 to 250 %
C4 +250 to 400 %

D1 4 to 8 cm +45 to +100 %
D2 +100 to +150 %
D3 +150 to 250 %
D4 +250 to 400 %

E < 8 cm > 100%

F 8 to 32 cm +45 to +100 %
G > 32 cm +45 to +100 %

H1 8 to 32 cm -30 to -45%
H2 8 to 32 cm -45 to -75 %

I1 > 32 cm -30 to -45 %

I2 > 32 cm -45 to -75%

4.2.5. Uster Tensojet - Tenacity

B-Force [cN] Breaking force= tensile force measured
Tenacity [cN/tex] Breaking force divided by the yarn count in tex
CV Fmax [%] Variation of the breaking force
B-Force [%] Breaking elongation = elongation at maximum force
Elongation E
CV B-Force E [%] Coefficient of variation of elongation
B-Work [[Link]] Work to Break = work at breaking force (area below the force-elongation
curve to the point of breaking force)
Min values Minimum value of force, elongation, tenacity or work within one test series
Max values Maximum value of force, elongation, tenacity or work within one test series
P: 0.01 0.01% of all measurements are below this reported value
(also possible for 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5% and 1.0%)

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4.2.6. Uster Tensorapid / Tensokid- Tenacity

Pretension Force applied to straighten yarn, normally 0.5 cN/tex
Time to break [s] Time elapsed between the start of the measurement and the breakage of
the specimen
B-Force [cN] Breaking force= maximum tensile force measured
Tenacity [cN/tex] Breaking force divided by the yarn count in tex
Elongation [%] Breaking elongation = elongation at time to break
B-Work [[Link]] Work to Break = work at breaking force (area below the force-elongation
curve to the point of breaking force)

4.2.7. CBL Variation of length

CV 10 m [%] Variation of yarn count at different cut length values, e.g. 10m, or 50, 100,
250, 500, 1000, 2000m

4.2.8. Uster Tester venness Tester

[Link]. Uster Tester 3/4 - CS

CVm [%] Coefficient of variation of yarn mass with chosen speed (for Yarns common
400 m/min 400 m/min)
Index [] Ratio between the ideal and actual evenness of staple fibre strands
CV [%] x m [%] Coefficient of variation for cut lengths of 1, 3, 10, 50 or 100 m
Imperfections [ 1/ 1000m / Number of thin places, thick places and neps at selected sensitivity levels
1/1000y ] (staple yarns only) per unit length (1000m or 1000y)
Thin places [] Number of thin places at selected sensitivity levels, e.g.: -30%, -40%, -50%,
-60%
Thick places [] Number of thick places at selected sensitivity levels, e.g.: +35%, +50%,
+70%, +100%
Neps [] Number of neps at selected sensitivity levels, e.g.: +140%, +200% (Ring),
+280% (Rotor), +400%
Rel. count [%] Count deviation relating to the length of yarn tested, the mean corresponds
to 100%
DR [] Deviation Rate

[Link]. Uster Tester 3/4 - OH

H [] The hairiness corresponds to the total length of protruding fibres divided by
the length of the sensor of 1cm. Therefore without unit.
Sh [] Standard deviation of H, related to measurement within 1 cm
sh (x) [] Standard deviation of H, related to cut lengths of 1,2,10, 50 or 100m
h(max)/ h(min) Deviation of the hairiness H (maximal or minimal)

[Link]. Uster Tester 3/4 - FA-Module

Abs. Count [Ne/Nm/tex] Determination of the yarn count (only with FA-Module)

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[Link]. Uster Tester 4 - OM

D [g/cm3] Yarn density related to nominal count
2Dø [] Two dimensional yarn diameter
CV 2D, 8 [] Two dimensional optical evenness, cut length 8 mm
CV 2D, 0.3 [] Two dimensional optical evenness, cut length 0.3 mm (=sensor length)
CV FS [] Fine Structure = assessment of short wave variations (Difference of CV 0.3
und CV 0.8)
Shape [] Value that describes roundness of yarn form, = 1; = 1:2 0.5
SD [] Standard deviation

[Link]. Uster Tester 4 - OI

Trash [1/km or Number of Trash particles (>500µm) per Unit length
1/1000y ]
Trash count [1/g] Number of Trash particles (>500µm) per 1 gram Yarn
spec.
Trash size [µm] Size of Trash particles in µm
Dust [1/km or Number of Dust particles (<500µm) per Unit length
1/1000y ]
Dust count spec. [1/g] Number of Dust particles (<500µm) per 1 gram Yarn
Dust size [µm] Size of Dust particles in µm

4.2.9. Zweigle D301 Twist measurement

T/m [m-1] Twist per 1 m Yarn
CV% [] Variation of yarn twist

4.2.10. Zweigle G565/G566 Optical hairiness

Distance x mm [ ] Numbers of fibres that are protruding out of the yarn body at a certain
length, e.g.: 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10 mm
S1+2 [] Sum of fibres, that have 1 and 2 mm
S3 [] Sum of fibres, that have are longer than 3 mm
Please note the tested length and check if values are compared
according to the same test length (at Rieter per 1m yarn!)

4.2.11. Zweigle G580 - Optische Unevenness

Yarn diameter [mm] Optical yarn diameter
O-CV [%] Optical Coefficient of variation of evenness
Thin places [1/1000m ] Count of thin places at 30% per 1000m
Thick places [1/1000m ] Count of thick places at +35% per 1000m
Neps [1/1000m ] Count of neps at +50% per 1000m

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4.2.12. Zweigle G555 - Stafftester - Abrasion

Abrasion [mg/10g Yarn] Yarn abrasion in mg, based to 10g of yarn
Abrasion [mg/1000m Yarn abrasion in mg, based to 1000m of yarn
Yarn]

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