C 202

TEXTILE AND CLOTHING

SECTION A
1. a. Filament yarn:
Filament yarn is made from long, continuous fibers or strands, either
twisted or grouped together, resulting in a smooth, lustrous, and strong
yarn, often used in applications requiring durability and a smooth
surface.
b. Staple yarn
Staple yarn, also known as spun yarn, is a type of yarn made by twisting
together short, discrete length fibers (staple fibers) to form a continuous
strand. Examples of staple fibers include wool, cotton, and flax.
c. Calendaring process:
Calendering in textiles is a mechanical finishing process where fabric is
passed between heated, pressurized rollers to smooth, compress, and
impart luster, creating a variety of textures and finishes.
d. Mercerizing
Mercerization is a textile finishing treatment for cotton and other
cellulosic fibers that improves luster, strength, and dye affinity by treating
them with a strong alkaline solution, typically caustic soda, which causes
the fibers to swell and rearrange their structure.
e. Three Uses of Finishes:
Fabric finishes enhance textiles by improving appearance, boosting
functionality, and increasing durability, making them more suitable for
various applications.
SECTION B
2. Physical properties of cotton
Cotton fibres are natural fibres that are used in a wide range of products. Cotton
fibres are composed of cellulose. The physical and chemical properties of cotton
fibres make them ideal for use in textiles, and there are several different types of
cotton fibres that are used in various products. While the production of cotton
can have a negative impact on the environment, there are sustainable production
practices that can help mitigate this impact. As the demand for sustainable
products continues to grow, it is likely that cotton production will become more
sustainable in the future.
Cotton fibre is one of the most important natural textile fibres of plant origin
and accounts for about one third of the total world production of textile
fibres. Cotton fibres grow on the surface of the seed of cotton plant). Cotton
fibre contains 90–95% cellulose which is an organic compound with the general
formula (C6H10O5)n. Cotton fibres also contain waxes, pectins, organic acids and
inorganic substances which produce ash when fibre is burnt.
Cotton fibre is obtained from the cotton plant. It is a traditional fibre used in the
textile industry. It is one of the most preferable fibres because cloth made from
it is durable and has good drape. Moreover, it is moisture-absorbent and smooth
to the touch. One quality of cotton fabric is that it takes time to dry. It also
creases easily and requires regular ironing.

Physical Properties of cotton fibre:

Tenacity – The strength of cotton fibre is attributed to the good alignment of

its long polymers i.e. its polymer system is about 70% crystalline, due to the
countless continuous hydrogen bond formations between adjacent polymers,
and the spiraling fibrils in the primary and secondary cell walls. It is one of
the few fibres which gains strength when wet. This occurs due to the
improved alignment of polymers and increase in hydrogen bond numbers.

Elasticity – Relatively it is elastic due to its crystalline polymer system and

for this cause cotton textiles wrinkle and crease readily.

Hydroscopic Nature – The cotton fibre is because of absorbent, owing to

the countless polar OH groups. In its polymers, these attract water molecules
which are also polar. The hydroscopic nature ordinarily prohibits cotton
textile materials from developing static electricity. The polarity of the water
molecules attracted to the hydroxyl groups on the polymers distribute any
static change which might develop.

Thermal properties – Cotton is not thermoplastic and hence excessive

application of heat energy reasons the cotton fibre to char and bum, without
prior melting.

Luster – Lintreated cotton has no pronounced luster. Therefore in order to

make it lustrous they need to be mercerized.
 Strength:

1. It is relatively strong.
2. Strength of fibre can be defined by the ability to resist of being pulled
or torn apart when undergoes to tension.

Elasticity:
Elasticity means the extent to which a fibre can be elongated by tension
& then return to its original shape.
Resilience:
1. It means the extent to which a fabric can be deformed by compression
& return
2.Finishing process does a lot to improve wrinkle resistant quality of
cotton goods.

Drapability:
1. It is concerned with the ability of fabric to hang easily & fall into
graceful to shape &folds.
2.This quality depends on the kind of fibre, yarn, fabric construction &
finish used to final goods.

Absorbency:
1. It determines the amount of moisture taken up by the fibre from air.
2.Cotton fibre is very absorbent.
3. Twist in the yarn also influences absorbency.

Low twist yarn absorbs more moisture than high twisted yarn.
Fabric structure also plays role in absorbency. Looser structure will be
more absorbent than tighter one.

a. Lappet weave:
Lappet weave is a fabric technique that creates small, embroidery-like designs
on a woven fabric ground, typically using extra warp threads to form the
pattern, which appears on one side of the fabric.
Lappet weave is a method of creating machine-made embroidery-like
figures on a fabric ground.
It involves using extra warp yarns to create the design, which are then
stitched into the fabric by needles that operate at right angles to the
construction.
  The designs are typically small and geometric.
 It's distinguished from swivel weaving, which uses extra weft yarns to
create designs on both sides of the fabric.
 Lappet designs appear only on the right side of the fabric, since the
floats forming the pattern are fastened to the ground fabric only at
their extremities.
Lappet designs are made of one continuous yarn and are not clipped.
Examples:
Dotted Swiss is an example of a lappet weave fabric.

b. Importances of finishes :
Fabric finishes are crucial for enhancing a textile's appearance, feel, and
functionality, making it suitable for its intended use and improving its durability
and serviceability.
 Improved Aesthetics:
Finishes can enhance the look and feel of a fabric, making it more appealing
to the consumer.
 Enhanced Functionality:
They can impart desired properties, such as wrinkle resistance, water
repellency, flame retardancy, or anti-static qualities, making the fabric more
practical and useful.
 Increased Durability:
Finishes can make fabrics more resistant to wear, tear, and environmental
factors like moisture and friction, extending their lifespan.
 Variety and Versatility:
They allow for a wider range of fabric textures, colors, and styles,
expanding the possibilities for designers and manufacturers.
 Meeting Industry Standards:
Finishes ensure that fabrics meet the quality and performance standards
required for specific applications, such as safety gear or outdoor wear.
 Improved Handle:
Finishing processes can improve the feel or touch of the fabric, making it
more comfortable to wear and use.
 Specialized Applications:
Finishes can be tailored to specific needs, such as making fabrics shrink-
proof, stain-resistant, or antimicrobial.
SECTION C
3. Explain the types of finishes
or
a. Stabilizing finishes
Stabilizing finishes in textile processing, particularly for textural effects, aim to
enhance fabric stability and durability, often through methods like heat setting
or mechanical treatments like calendaring, which can also impart desired
textures.
Stabilizing finishes are treatments applied to fabrics to improve their
dimensional stability, reduce shrinkage, and enhance their overall performance.
 These finishes are crucial for maintaining the integrity of fabrics,
especially those prone to shrinking or wrinkling.
They can be applied using various methods, including heat setting,

mechanical treatments, and chemical treatments.
Common Stabilizing Finishes and Their Effects:
 Heat Setting:
This process involves exposing the fabric to controlled heat, which helps to
set the fibers in place and reduce shrinkage.
 It's particularly effective for synthetic fabrics and those containing
high concentrations of synthetics.
Heat setting can also help to improve wrinkle resistance.
 Calendaring:
This mechanical process involves passing the fabric between heated,
pressurized rollers, which can smooth and flatten the fabric, and also impart
desired textures.
Different types of rollers can be used to create various surface
finishes, such as a smooth, glossy finish or a textured finish.
 Sanforizing:
This is a specific type of mechanical finish that uses a machine called a
Sanforizer to pre-shrink and compact fabric fibers, improving dimensional
stability.
 Compaction:
 This mechanical finish improves dimensional stability and density by
mechanically compressing the cloth, especially useful for textiles like denim
and woven fabrics.

 Chemical Finishes:
Certain chemical treatments can also be used to stabilize fabrics, such as
those that prevent shrinkage or improve wrinkle resistance

b. Textural finishes
Textural processes in textile finishing involve altering the surface or handle of a
fabric through mechanical or chemical treatments to achieve specific textures,
such as napping, shearing, or embossing.
Here's a more detailed breakdown of textual processes in textile finishing:
Mechanical Finishes (Dry Finishes):
 Napping: This process involves raising the surface fibers of a fabric to
create a soft, fuzzy texture, like in fleece or velvet.
 Shearing: This involves cutting off the surface fibers to create a smooth,
even surface or a pile effect.
 Calendering: This process uses heat and pressure to flatten the fabric
surface, creating a smooth, lustrous finish.
 Embossing: This process creates raised patterns on the fabric surface
using heated rollers.
 Brushing: This process uses brushes to create a soft, brushed texture.
 Sanding: This process uses abrasive materials to create a textured or
distressed look.
 Fuzzing: This process creates a fuzzy or nubby texture.
Watering: This process creates a waved or watered effect on a textile
fabric.
Chemical Finishes (Wet Finishes):
 Mercerization:
This chemical treatment of cotton enhances its strength, luster, and
dyeability, leading to a smoother, more absorbent fabric.
 Dyeing and Printing:
These processes add color and patterns, which can also influence the texture
of the fabric.
 Bleaching:
This process removes natural color from the fabric, often done before
dyeing to achieve a uniform color.
 Sizing:
This process involves applying a solution to the fabric to stiffen or add
weight, which can affect the fabric's texture and handle.
 Weighting:
This process adds weight and improves the handle of fabrics, particularly
silk, by applying metallic salts or polymers.
 Bio-polishing:
This process uses enzymes to selectively remove protruding fibers, resulting
in a smoother fabric surface.
 Coating:
This process applies a layer of material to the fabric, which can change its
texture and properties.
 Burn-out:
This process uses chemicals to selectively remove areas of fabric, creating a
patterned texture.
 Glazing:
This process creates a smooth, shiny surface on the fabric.

Textural processes are meant for improving the texture of the fabric such as
stiffness, smoothness, weight or strength.