0% found this document useful (0 votes)
104 views22 pages

All About Bonsai Notes

Uploaded by

menjah
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as DOCX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
0% found this document useful (0 votes)
104 views22 pages

All About Bonsai Notes

Uploaded by

menjah
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as DOCX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

All About

Bonsai

Compiled and edited by Hamzah

1
Bonsai styles
Bonsai shapes and styles
Over the years many styles to classify Bonsai trees have been
advanced, closely resembling circumstances in nature. These
styles are open to personal interpretation and creativity,
meaning that trees do not necessarily need to conform to any
form.

Still, the styles are important to gain a basic understanding of


shapes and should serve as guidelines to successfully train
miniature trees.

Broom style Bonsai


(Hokidachi)
The broom style is suited for
deciduous trees with extensive, fine
branching. The trunk is straight and
upright and does not continue to the
top of the tree; it branches out in all
directions at about 1/3 the height of
the tree. The branches and leaves
form a ball-shaped crown which is also
a stunning sight during winter months.

Formal upright Bonsai


style (Chokkan)
The formal upright style is a very
common form of Bonsai. This style
often occurs in nature, especially when
the tree is exposed to lots of light and
does not face the problem of
competing trees. For this style,
tapering of the upright-growing trunk
must be clearly visible. The trunk must
therefore be thicker at the bottom and
must grow increasingly thinner with
the height. At about 1/4 of the total

2
length of the trunk, branching should begin. The top of the
tree should be formed by a single branch; the trunk should not
span the entire height of the tree.

Informal upright Bonsai


style (Moyogi)
The informal upright style is common
in both nature and in the art of Bonsai.
The trunk grows upright roughly in the
shape of a letter ‘S’ and at every turn
branching occurs. Tapering of the
trunk must be clearly visible, with the
base of the trunk thicker than the
higher portion

Slanting Bonsai style


(Shakan)
As a result of the wind blowing in one
dominant direction or when a tree
grows in the shadow and must bend
toward the sun, the tree will lean in
one direction. With Bonsai, the leaning
style should grow at an angle of about
60 - 80 degrees relative to the ground.
The roots are well developed on one
side to keep the tree standing. On the
side toward which the tree is leaning,
the roots are clearly not as well
developed. The first branch grows opposite the direction of
the tree, in order to create a sense of visual balance. The
trunk can be slightly bent or completely straight, but still be
thicker at the bottom than at the top.

Cascade Bonsai style


(Kengai)
A tree living in nature on a steep cliff
can bend downward as a result of
several factors, like snow or falling
rocks. These factors cause the tree to
grow downwards. For bonsai trees it
can be difficult to maintain a

3
downward-growing tree because the direction of growth
opposes the tree’s natural tendency to grow upright. Cascade
Bonsai are planted in tall pots. The tree should grow upright
for a small stretch but then bend downward. The crown of the
tree usually grows above the rim of the pot, but the
subsequent branches alternate left and right on the outermost
curves of an S-shaped trunk. These branchings should grow
out horizontally in order to maintain balance of the tree.

Semi cascade Bonsai style


(Han-kengai)
The semi-cascade style, just like the
cascade style, is found in nature on
cliffs and on the banks of rivers and
lakes. The trunk grows upright for a
small distance and then bends
downwards/sidewards. Unlike the
cascade style, the semi-cascade trunk
will never grow below the bottom of
the pot. The crown is usually above the rim of the pot while
subsequent branching occurs below the rim.

Literati Bonsai style


(Bunjingi)
In nature this style of tree is found in
areas densely populated by many
other trees and competition is so
fierce that the tree can only survive by
growing taller then all others around it.
The trunk grows crookedly upward and
is completely without branching
because the sun only hits the top of
the tree. To make sure that it looks
even tougher, some branches are
“Jinned” (without bark). When the bark
has been removed from one side of the trunk, the trunk is
referred to as a “Shari”. The idea is to demonstrate that the
tree has to struggle to survive. These trees are often placed in
small, round pots.

4
Windswept Bonsai style
(Fukinagashi)
The windswept style also is a good
example of trees that must struggle to
survive. The branches as well as the
trunk grow to one side as if the wind
has been blowing the tree constantly
in one direction. The branches grow
out on all sides of the trunk but will all
eventually be bent to one side.

Double trunk style Bonsai


(Sokan)
The double trunk style is common in
nature, but is not actually that
common in the art of Bonsai. Usually
both trunks will grow out of one root
system, but it is also possible that the
smaller trunk grows out of the larger
trunk just above the ground. The two
trunks will vary in both thickness and
length, the thicker and more
developed trunk grows nearly upright, while the smaller trunk
will grow out a bit slanted. Both trunks will contribute to a
single crown of leaves/canopy.

Multitrunk Bonsai style


(Kabudachi)
In theory the multi trunk style is the
same as the double trunk style, but
with 3 or more trunks. All trunks grow
out of a single root system, and it truly
is one single tree. All the trunks form
one crown of leaves, in which the
thickest and most developed trunk
forms the top.

5
Forest Bonsai style (Yose-
ue)
The forest style looks a lot like the
multi-trunk style, but the difference is
that it is comprised of several trees
rather than one tree with several
trunks. The most developed trees are
planted in the middle of a large and
shallow pot. On the sides a few smaller
trees are planted to contribute to one
single crown. The trees are planted not
in a straight line but in a staggered pattern, because this way
the forest will appear more realistic and natural. For
inspiration, check the Bonsai forests top 7 .

Growing on a rock Bonsai


style (Seki-joju)
On rocky terrain, trees are forced to
search for nutrient rich soil with their
roots, which can often be found in
cracks and holes. The roots are
unprotected before they reach the
ground so they must protect
themselves from the sun: a special
bark grows around them. With Bonsai
the roots grow over a rock into the
pot, so caring for this tree isn’t really
different from caring for any other
style. You will find Juniper Bonsai are suitable for this style,
sometimes even tropicals like the Ficus Bonsai as well.

Growing in a rock Bonsai


style (Ishisuki)
In this style the roots of the tree are
growing in the cracks and holes of the
rock. This means that there is not
much room for the roots to develop
and absorb nutrients. Trees growing in

6
rocks will never look really healthy, thus it should be visible
that the tree has to struggle to survive. It is important to
fertilize and water often, because there is not much space
available to store water and nutrients. The rock in which the
Bonsai grows is often placed in a shallow pot, which is
sometimes filled with water or fine gravel. For some examples,
see the Rock Bonsai top 8 .

Raft Bonsai style


(Ikadabuki)
Sometimes a cracked tree can survive
by pointing its branches upward. The
old root system can provide the
branches with enough nutrients to
survive. After a while new roots will
start growing, eventually taking over
the function of the old root system.
The old branches which now point into
the air develop into trunks with
multiple branchings as a result of the increased influx of
nutrients. These new trunks contribute to one single canopy.

Shari Bonsai style


(Sharimiki)
As time passes, some trees develop
bald or barkless places on their trunks
as a result of harsh weather conditions.
The bald part usually begins at the
place where the roots emerge from the
ground, and grows increasingly thinner
as it continues up the trunk. Intense
sunlight will bleach these parts, forming
a very characteristic part of the tree.
With Bonsai the bark is removed with a sharp knife and the
barkless spot is treated with lime sulfur in order to speed up
the bleaching process. Click here for an image of all Bonsai
styles .

7
Outdoor Bonsai trees
You have a garden or a balcony and can keep your Bonsai tree
outside, so you want an outdoor tree. Which one? The most
important thing to consider is which conditions you can offer
the tree and which species can live under these conditions. If
you choose a native tree this is always a good idea, but keep
in mind that many frost-hardy species need frost protection
when they are planted in shallow containers.

When selecting a tree species to be kept outdoors, we suggest


you take into consideration your local climate, the conditions
of your garden and of course your taste.

Your local climate


If you live in a region with subtropical or mediterranean
climate, you can grow many species outside which cannot
endure frost, but some species must be protected from the
heat and intensive sunlight. Olive (Olea
europea), Pomegranate (Punica granatum), Fuchsia , Chinese
elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Mulberry (Morus), Cork oak (Quercus
suber), Privet (Ligustrum sinensis) are well suited.
The Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) and Trident
maples (Acer buergerianum) can grow well if the winters are
cool enough that they can go into winter
dormancy. Hackberry (Celtis sinensis), Japanese black
pine (Pinus thunbergii), Bald cypress (Taxodium distichum)
and some mediterranean Juniper species can also thrive in a
subtropical and mediterranean climate. Cherries (Prunus),
apples (Malus) and other species which need a cooler climate
will most likely not grow well.

Regions with a temperate climate are good for many


species, especially most of the nice imported Japanese species
can be grown successfully. Subtropical and mediterranean
trees can also be chosen if they can be protected from frost,
in a greenhouse for example.

In a maritime climate with moist summers you might need


very well-draining soil and some species which need full
sunlight might not be perfectly happy.

8
In a continental climate with hot summers and cold winters
you will have to provide semi-shade in the summer and good
protection against frost if you don't want to be limited to a few
very hardy native tree species.

Popular outdoor Bonsai trees; a Juniper, Pine tree and Japanese maple.

Conditions specific to your balcony / garden


It is important to also consider the special conditions in your
garden or on your balcony. If you have full sun all day you can
choose from a lot of species, but you might need some shade
nets for sensitive species, especially if the Bonsai trees stand
in a paved place surrounded by walls. A garden with grass,
shrubs and hedges can make a big difference because the air
humidity is much higher most of the time. If you live in a
region with constant winds your trees need more water but
will not so easily be infected by pests and fungal diseases.

Should you have a very shady garden or a balcony facing


north or east there are only very few options. You could try a
yew or a false cypress but although they might survive they
won't be perfectly happy. Maybe you can do something to get
more sunlight into your garden (chop down some large trees
or shorten tall hedges) or move somewhere else...

Personal Taste

9
Your personal taste is also an important thing to consider, of
course! Some people love flowering trees like the azalea or
dream of an apple Bonsai with tiny fruit in autumn, others like
junipers or pines best. If you want to acquire a very special
species, please get well informed first if it can live in your
climate and in your garden or what you need to provide the
conditions they need, like a greenhouse for winter, shade nets
or an especially sunny corner. Should this be impossible,
please don't buy the desired tree. It is no fun at all to watch it
get weak and sick and finally die.

Acer buergerianum (Trident maple bonsai)

Outdoor Bonsai tree care


Caring for an outdoor Bonsai tree is different from that of
normal potted plants. The main reason is that Bonsai trees are
planted in small pots and therefore have limited storage for
nutrients and water. More important is that Bonsai trees from
temperate climates need their period of winter dormancy, but
most species need some protection from frost and strong
winds during that time.

Specific care of outdoor Bonsai species:

1. Light
Most outdoor Bonsai trees need sunlight for at least a few
hours a day. Their internodes and leaves will grow too
large otherwise and they get prone to pests and diseases
then. Most conifers should be placed in full sun for
healthy growth.

10
2. Humidity
On hot days and in a paved place surrounded by walls
the trees can suffer from low humidity. You can increase
humidity near your Bonsai tree by placing it on a
humidity tray filled with water and by misting your tree a
few times a day. What also helps is to wet the shelves,
floors and walls around the trees.

3. Watering and fertilizing


The most important rule is; never water on a routine.
Monitor your tree and only water when needed. This can
be once in three days or several times a day, depending
on the weather, species and size. Please read the Bonsai
watering and Fertilizing pages for more detailed
information.

4. Temperature
Outdoor trees can endure high temperatures as well as
very cold weather if they are cared for properly. It is
important for most species to provide protection from
strong frost in winter. In spring, when the new leaves
emerge, take care that the trees are protected even from
light night frost.

To summarize, make sure to select the right tree species and


take into account the specific care guidelines for outdoor
trees, and you will do just fine!

Indoor Bonsai trees


Which Bonsai is best for indoors?
There are several tropical and subtropical trees that you can
grow indoor. The most common, and the easiest to care for, is
the Ficus Bonsai . The Ficus is tolerant of low humidity and is
very resilient, making it an excellent choice for beginners.
Other popular indoor Bonsai include the Dwarf jade ,
the Fukien tea (Carmona) , the Hawaiian umbrella (Schefflera) ,
and the Sweet plum (Sageretia) . If you select one of these
trees and care for it properly, your Bonsai will thrive indoor.

11
Indoor Bonsai trees; a Ficus, Carmona, and Chinese elm.
Why can’t I keep temperate, nontropical,
Bonsai indoor?
As stated above, temperate trees need a period of dormancy
in the winter. In this period of dormancy, the yearly growth
cycle ends, and the tree prepares for the next cycle which will
start again in early spring. A tree becomes dormant when
temperatures and light intensity gradually decrease over
several weeks, which does not happen when you keep
temperate trees indoors. Tropical and subtropical trees do not
need this period of dormancy.

Indoor Bonsai tree care


Caring for an indoor Bonsai is different from that of normal
potted house plants. The main reason is that Bonsai trees are
planted in small pots and therefore have limited storage for
nutrients and water. More importantly, tropical trees are
accustomed to receiving a lot of light and high humidity,
climates that are challenging to replicate indoors.
Specific care of indoor Bonsai species:

1. Light
The main problem with keeping a tropical Bonsai tree
indoors is that the intensity of light is much lower than
outdoors. Trees won’t die immediately if they don’t get
enough light, but growth will decrease and weaken the
plant over time. That’s why placing your Bonsai in a
bright location, preferably directly in front of a window
facing the south is highly recommended when growing
Bonsai indoors.
Even when you have a south-facing window, the light
intensity may still be too low. You can supplement this
deficit of light with artificial lighting to help your tree. For

12
example, you can use fluorescent lighting with radiating
growth-friendly spectra, or light-emitting diode lighting
for about 10 hours a day. Read more about Placement .

2. Humidity
Another issue with keeping a Bonsai tree indoors is that
the tree needs relatively high humidity, much higher than
the conditions of your house, especially with heating or
air conditioning. You can increase the humidity near your
Bonsai tree by placing it on a humidity tray filled with
water and by misting your tree a few times a day. You
can also circulate air from outside, by opening a window
during the day.

3. Watering and fertilizing


The most important rule is, never water on a routine.
Ignore the label attached to your Bonsai tree which
states you need to water every x amount of days. The
best practice is to monitor your tree and its soil, and only
water when it’s needed. Please read
the Watering and Fertilizing pages for detailed
information.

4. Temperature
Tropical tree species need relatively high temperatures
throughout the year, similar to the standard room
temperature of your living room.
Subtropical Bonsai trees can withstand somewhat lower
temperatures, and generally thrive when they enjoy a
winter season with temperatures well below that of the
standard room temperature.

To summarize, make sure to select the right tree species and


take into account the specific care guidelines for indoor trees
and your bonsai will do just fine!

Most popular species

13
FicusFICUS RETUSA OR GINSENG JuniperJUNIPERUS
Japanese maple
Find your tree species
We categorized the tree species into Broadleaf evergreen (leaves
year-round), Deciduous (sheds leaves in fall) and Conifers (with
needles or scale-like foliage).

Broadleaf evergreen tree


species
Tree species that never lose all of their leaves at a single time, though
they do shed their leaves gradually throughout the year. We have 29
guides available in this category .

14
Ficus FIG Fukien tea
Dwarf Jade

Azalea Bougainvillea now


rose

Box or boxwood Sweet plum


Olive

15
Money tree Privet
Hawaiian umbrella

Cotoneaster Citrus or Lemon Brazilian rain tree

Brush cherry Fuchsia


Japanese holly

16
Premna Jasmine Crepe
Myrtle

Myrtle Firethorn
Water jasmine

Wattle Camellia
Bamboo

17
Hibiscus Eucalypt
Rosemary

Deciduous tree species


Tree species that shed leaves in fall or in the dry season. We have 30
guides available in this category.

Japanese maple Chinese elm Cherry

Oak Wisteria
Japanese elm

Pomegranate Jacaranda Trident


maple

18
Desert rose Apple and crabapple
Hornbeam and beech

Star magnolia GINKGO BILOBA Chinese

19
Flame tree Hackberry
Weeping willow

Japanese winterberry Birch


Baobab

20
Chinese quince Judas tree Rose

Hawthorn Silk tree


Jabuticaba

Ash Liquidambar
Dogwood

Pines and Conifers


Tree species with needle or scale-like foliage. We have 14 guides
available in this category.

Juniper Pines
Spruce

21
Redwood Bald cypress Larch
and Golden

Buddhist pine Cedar


TAXACEAE

Hinoki cypress Japanese cedar Hemlock

NORTHERN WHITE CEDAR Fir

22

You might also like