International Journal of Home Science 2021; 7(3): 220-225

ISSN: 2395-7476
IJHS 2021; 7(3): 220-225
© 2021 IJHS
www.homesciencejournal.com
An introduction to sustainable textiles
Received: 04-07-2021
Accepted: 06-08-2021
Ananya Mitra Pramanik and Garima Anand
Ananya Mitra Pramanik
Associate Professor, Textile Abstract
Design Department, National The terminology of "sustainability" is fairly new having been coined only in the late nineteen eighties.
Institute of Fashion Technology, Although the concept of sustainability in the context of textiles is age old and was practiced across
New Delhi, India
cultures. This paper traces the genesis of sustainability and its different facets. It tracks the emergence of
challenges in the path of sustainability and the techniques to combat them. The findings of this study are
Garima Anand
Associate Professor, Knitwear
relevant in the current times as the world struggles with increasing textile waste. Waste is generated from
Design Department, National all industries but the textiles industry is particularly one of the most polluting industry. Although textiles
Institute of Fashion Technology, are one of the largest growing and employment generating sectors but it is also the most polluting. This
New Delhi, India industry not only consumes vast resources during production but after production the textiles are also
often quickly discarded which adds to the landfill sites. The waste textiles dumped at the landfill sites
takes eons to decompose and often leads to emission of poisonous gases. The landfill sites also sweeps
into the ground and pollutes the ground water level. This paper uses secondary research methods from
various books, publications, as well as electronic sources to conduct this research.

Keywords: sustainability, textiles, waste, industry, consumers

1. Introduction
The need to conserve the environment for maintaining harmonious coexistence of nature and
human beings is the meaning of sustainability (EPA, 2016) [7]. Sustainability was first
described in the Brundtland Commission of 1987 as permitting the requirements of an entire
community to be satisfied without hampering the same requirements to be met by the future
community (Brundtland Commission, 2016) [2].
Ancient cultures worldwide followed the earth's natural production cycles. In this natural cycle
there were no concepts of waste e.g. earth produces as well as recycled all its products. The
waste discarded become the food for another i.e. an apple produced by the tree becomes the
food for the animals around. They eat it and throw the remains which become the food for the
insects. The remains are food for the earth to grow more fertile. The seeds cannot be consumed
and when they touch the earth they create the new apple tree. This is the constant natural cycle
of the earth and this is the sustainable cycle (William, 1993) [27]. In the Indian subcontinent,
sustainability has been an age old concept practiced from the ancient Vedic times. "Mata
Bhumih Putrohum Prithviyah", is a Sanskrit sloka which when translated means that earth is
the mother and mankind is her son. This ancient Indian sloka declares the lasting devotion and
respect of humankind to mother earth (Kala & Sharma, 2010) [16].
However in the present times the wise ancient messages of devotion and respect of the earth's
natural processes are ignored and there has been a lot of destruction of the earth's natural
environment by humankind. This destruction will directly or indirectly create difficulties for
the human race to survive. As is evident human beings are dependent on the natural
environment to fulfil their needs. If the environment is destroyed then human beings can no
longer survive. The basic requirements of the people i.e. clean water, air and earth are slowly
but surely getting diminished due to excessive production, consumption and wastage of the
present times.
Corresponding Author:
Ananya Mitra Pramanik 1.1 Textile Waste
Associate Professor, Textile Textile is the integral part of the fashion industry and there is a quick variation in demand of
Design Department, National textiles types and composition. The increase in population, fashion dictates, and spending
Institute of Fashion Technology, power of the people directly influences the demand of textiles (Braungart, 2002). According to
New Delhi, India
~ 220 ~
International Journal of Home Science http://www.homesciencejournal.com

the Textile Sector Profile report 2017 released by the govt of a compound annual growth of 10.3% by 2021 as shown in
Gujarat India (Textile Sector the production worth of textiles Figure 1.
in India will increase to $223 billion by 2021(estimated) with

Source: (Textile Sector Profile, 2017)

Fig 1: Increase in the production of textiles in India in USD billion by 2021.

The generation of waste is expected to grow worldwide to 27

billion tonnes per year by 2050. India will be one of the major
contributors of this waste with production of 0.7 kgs per
person per day by 2025 (Sunil K., 2017). Most of this waste
takes years to degenerate and are harmful for the
environment. Several environmental problems are associated
with the increase in waste for example air pollution, water
pollution (NRDC, 2017), release of harmful chemicals in the
soil through landfill sites (C Parvathi, 2009) [3], contamination
of the ground water, damage to flora and fauna (Fletcher,
2009) etc. Figure 2 shows the global waste usage in 2015.
Less than 1% of fabrics used to manufacture clothing are
recycled into new clothing symbolizing a loss of more than
USD 100 billion value of materials every year (A New
Textiles Economy, 2017).

Source: https://in.pinterest.com/pin/32228953560054467/ Accessed

on 26/01/2018
Fig 3: Mountains of waste clothing.

Textile waste pollutes the environment and landfill sites

releasing mixtures of organic and inorganic chemicals
characterized by high toxic substances, colour content,
suspended solids, salts, heavy metals, and chlorinated organic
compounds into the soil and the ground water
(fibre2fashion.com, 2017).

Fig 2: The global waste usage in 2015 (A New Textiles Economy,

2017)

Excessive production results in garments with a short life

span. Garments get rejected before they have reached the end
of their life cycle due to the change in fashion dictates. This
rapid rejection of fabrics generates fabric waste, which are
sometimes recycled at downmarket stores but a high
percentage of waste clothing often end up in landfills. Figure-
3 shows the mountains of waste clothing which often will end
in landfills if not recycled. Figure-4 shows textile waste in the
landfills. Even in the United Kingdom, which has a functional Source: https://inhabitat.com/ecouterre/europe-only-recycles-25-
system of waste segregation, 60% of all the discarded textiles percent-of-textile-waste-says-new-report/ (Accessed on: 22/01/2018)
end in landfills. In under developed countries the percentage
of waste is much higher. Its sheer volume is not sustainable Fig 4: Textile waste in landfill site.
even if the fabrics are organic.
~ 221 ~
International Journal of Home Science http://www.homesciencejournal.com

2. History of Sustainable Textiles

The terminology of sustainable textile emerged much recently
indicating a textile or a textile product which either uses waste
as raw materials or utilizes raw materials without creating
wastage. It is easy to recycle, has a long lifespan, emits
minimum pollutants during production, uses limited resources
(e.g. water, fertilizers, electricity etc.) to grow its raw
materials, and can be quickly absorbed back into the earth at
the end of its life cycle. The traditional Indian attire i.e. Sari,
Dhoti & Angvastram is a good example of sustainable
textiles/fashion. In the production of these clothing there is no
generation of pre consumer waste and all the raw materials
are used to its optimum level. Sustainable textiles techniques
have very limited documentation through the ages as they Source: https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/what-is-patchwork-
were practiced mainly for self consumption and were rarely 2821590 Accessed on: 22/01/2019
practiced commercially (Harris, 2016) [9]. Fig 6: Patchwork Quilt.
Nevertheless the historical evidence of sustainable textiles can
be traced to quilt making back to prehistoric times. The first During the pre-industrial revolution era i.e. mid 18th C, there
evidence of a quilt worn by an Egyptian monarch is found was very limited pre consumer textile waste due to limited
engraved on a temple artefact dating back to 35 th Century BC textile productions. In this period post consumer textile
(Ducey, 2014) [5]. In 1924, quilted floor coverings dated 1st wastes which included worn out textiles were made into new
Century BC were discovered in Mongolia. Quilted garments products, thus enhancing the textile life span (Braungart,
became popular in the medieval period. Later quilt making 2002). During the early 19th C World Wars, there was a
flourished in America in the 19th C especially during 1825 shortage of textiles as most of the textile factories, by order of
AD-1875 AD (Johnson, 2019) [14]. Quilts were made using the law, produced fabrics only for military and industrial uses
appliqué as well as the patchwork techniques. An example of (Kendra, 2009). In this duration fabrics were in short supply
the appliqué quilt created during this period has been shown worldwide. People began to repurpose old fabrics into new
in Figure 5. This quilt has been made by a group of women products. At this time the feed sacks or commodity bags
and it demonstrates intricate work and craftsmanship began to be commonly used into dresses, towels,
(Johnson, 2019) [14]. This quilt was used as a work of art. The undergarments etc. across rural America. In America, feedbag
building in the middle of this quilt is a representation of the suppliers were in great stress to manufacture feed bags which
Capitol building in Washington, D.C. (Johnson, 2019) [14]. were not only colourful but also printed in the latest trends.
Patchwork quilts have been made for centuries (Johnson, Despite the popularity of this sustainable practice, it has been
2019) [14]. The intricacy of a quilt depicted the economic omitted from the documentations of the histories of American
status of the family which commissioned it. Although some fashions. There is very less available information about the
exquisite quilts were created as works of art, most commonly look of the commodity bag dresses, and the steps the tailor
quilts as shown in Figure 6 were a utility item to keep warm had to take to repurpose the bags (Jennifer B., 2015).
(Wickell, 2019) [26]. Kantha textiles from the Bengal region of India and
Bangladesh are examples of original repurposed art and was
first mentioned in a book by Kaviraj around 500 years ago
(Clothroads, 2018). Rural womenfolk of Bengal created
Kantha textiles from old and torn saris by placing them on top
of each other forming several layers of worn out saris. These
layers were then stitched together using mostly the basic
running stitch and also in some parts stitches like herringbone,
satin etc were used. Traditionally, the end products of Kantha
were quilts suitable for the light Bengal winters.

Fig 5: An applique' quilt from Pennsylvania, USA created around Fig 7: A Kantha quilt depicting motifs derived from fishes, flowers
1845-1850AD. (American Folk Art Museum, 2010) and birds (Dutta S., 2016)

~ 222 ~
International Journal of Home Science http://www.homesciencejournal.com

The Kanthas were embroidered beautifully and many times overall understanding of the history of textiles. This included
the base fabric was not visible due to the dense embroidery. references from journals, books, websites and other electronic
Most of the motifs were inspired from the local flora and sources, reports and miscellaneous sources.
fauna or the scenes from the great Indian epics of 'The
Ramayana' and 'The Mahabharata'. Figure 7 depicts kantha 4. Results and Discussion
motifs derived from fishes, flowers and birds. The threads There are several reasons for increasing textile waste and
used were also drawn from the borders of the old saris. The unsustainable practices. One of the major causes of textile
Kanthas made thus were almost always for self consumption waste is the quick accession and rejection of goods (Kate &
or reserved as a special gift for a close family member. The Lynda, 2012) [17]. All the goods that are being produced in a
Kanthas were a highly prized possession not because of the quick span of time are rejected quickly due to the changing
cost involved in creating it but because of the painstaking tastes and preferences of the people. The existing production
labour that was put in to transform a discarded sari into a processes of textiles must be modified such that maximum
piece of art. This technique added decades of new life into the amount of waste is recycled or incorporate back as a raw
worn out saris (Fletcher, 2009). material for production processes. To establish a sustainable
manufacturing system it must be remembered to not only take
2.1 Sustainable Textiles resources from the earth but also return back to the earth so
The sustainability challenge of the textile and fashion industry that no harm is caused to the ecological balance (William,
is linked to globalization of businesses. Due to stiff 1993) [27].
competition the global textile brands have outsourced its Secondly due to the globalization of businesses the
manufacturing to the developing countries. The developing developing countries have turned into manufacturing units
countries have put economic growth before environmental catering to the needs of the rich countries resulting in over
preservation although the textile industry ostensibly has many exploitation of its own natural resources. Governments are yet
rules and regulations to uphold sustainability and to establish successful methods to implement strict laws to
environmental concerns. prevent the exploitation of natural resources (Magnus &
Most governments of the developing countries are unable to Michele, 2016) [19].
formalize and implement the rules and regulations laid by Recently scholars have begun to research on product specific
them (Magnus & Michele, 2016) [19]. There are also several factors that instigate drawbacks for ethical consumption. They
certifications e.g. eco certifications, code of conduct etc. have identified factors such as limited understanding, limited
which are formed to regulate the production processes of the accessibility of alternative products, dictates of fashion,
industries. Nevertheless these have proven to be insignificant societal norms, and status connected with personal
and therefore hopeless in the context of addressing sustainable appearance, style and visibility (Harris, 2016) [9]. This
issues. In reality the governments of these countries support suggests that the perceived beauty and status that is offered by
only the economic growth and there are no regulations to the phenomena of fast fashion to the customers are the major
protect the environment (Magnus & Michele, 2016) [19]. barriers for sustainability. Thus achievement of sustainability
Appeal to the consumers by environmental scientists and is not only the prerogative of the researchers and activists but
researchers to limit the use of textiles have also been largely also the consciousness of the consumers and each and every
ineffective. Although people are slowly becoming aware of person on the earth.
not only the human rights concerns of the textile industry but Researchers and activists need to convert textile consumers
also its negative influence on the environment. Each stage of into ethical buyers so that the textile and clothing sector does
textile production e.g. harvesting, sorting, dyeing, spinning not lag behind in sustainable development. Recently scholars
etc relies heavily on chemicals, water and energy usage. Apart have begun to research on product specific consumer
from this, climate changes also result from large accumulated behaviors that confines the growth of ethical consumption.
consumptions and fast fashion. Fast fashion is a phenomenon They have identified factors such as limited understanding of
where clothes change rapidly as a result of change in fashion sustainability, limited accessibility of alternative sustainable
(Kate & Lynda, 2012) [17]. This is largely responsible for the products, dictates of fashion, societal norms, and status
large waste production of this industry. Fast fashion is connected with personal appearance, style and visibility as
identified by cheap quality, quick replacement and quick deterrents of ethical buying practices (Harris, 2016) [9]. This
disposal of fabrics. Thus textile industry is one of the most suggests that the perceived beauty and status that is offered by
polluting industries of the world. the phenomena of fast fashion to the customers are the major
Many scholars have proposed that buyers are responsible for barriers for sustainability. There is an ongoing debate on what
the phenomena of fast fashion. They hope to reduce the trend comprises the term 'improved' and how it to be defined. This
of fast fashion by persuading the buyers to be indicates that answers to the problems of sustainability and its
environmentally conscious so that they can pressurize the related economic, fair trade and environmental issues can be
manufacturers by threatening to boycott buying their goods if resolved only through inventive thinking and endeavors by all
they are not produced through sustainable methods. sections of society as well as government agencies. The
Consumers can also give incentive to the manufactures sustainability test requires diverse institutions and activists
producing sustainable textiles by purchasing consistently from from various fields to work towards a common goal. There is
them. Consumers must also be made to reject fast fashion a need for collective responsibility for achieving goals in
goods and aid in decreasing environmental pollution. For sustainability. Environment issues involve everyone who is a
example in sectors such as household goods, food, coffee, part of the environment and there are no institutions or human
wood and several other products, many consumers have been being who is outside this environment (Magnus & Michele,
coerced into sustainable purchases (Harris, 2016) [9]. 2016) [19].
Thus achievement of sustainability is not only the prerogative
3. Research methodology of the researchers and activists but also the consciousness of
The secondary research methods were adopted to arrive at an the consumers and each and every person on the earth.
~ 223 ~
International Journal of Home Science http://www.homesciencejournal.com

5. Conclusion Environmental Protection Agency. Wasinghton: EPA,

This study investigated the drawbacks of the textile industry 2016. Retrieved April 8, 2019, from
which not only consumes a lot of natural resources for https://www.epa.gov/sustainability/learn-about-
production but also discharges a lot of pollutants into the sustainability#what
environment. In fact this industry is one of the most polluting 8. From a linear to a circular economy. (n.d.). (Government
industries in the world resulting in climate change, of the Netherlands) Retrieved November 7, 2017, from
contamination of the earth, water, air, consumption of huge www.government.nl:
amounts of chemicals and energy and leading to global https://www.government.nl/topics/circular-
dialogues on human rights issues (Magnus & Michele, 2016) economy/from-a-linear-to-a-circular-economy
[19]
. The rapidly increasing production of textiles is raising 9. Harris EF. Sustainable clothing: Challenges, barriers and
questions and concerns worldwide on how people will interventions for encouraging more sustainable consumer
continue to extract from their environments and if this is behaviour. Researchgate 2016;40(3):309-318. Retrieved
sustainable. This leads to conflicting views on production and from
consumption. Several institutes ranging from private to the https://www.researchgate.net/publication/284227534_Sus
government funded are involved in finding solutions to the tainable_clothing_Challenges_barriers_and_interventions
challenges faced. While many technological solutions are _for_encouraging_more_sustainable_consumer_behaviou
invented or put into action to counter some of the challenges r/link/570ce46508ae2b772e42a275/download
but majority of the solutions lie in the awareness and 10. Hendriksz V. (Re)defining sustainability: Repair,
dedicated actions taken by the consumers, organizations, Recycle, Reuse and Reduce. Retrieved March 2017, from
government agencies and manufacturers (Magnus & Michele, www.FashionUnited.info © Fashion United 2020:
2016) [19]. In fact consumers and manufacturers has been https://fashionunited.com/executive/management/re-
identified as the main propagator of sustainable development defining-sustainability-repair-recycle-reuse-and-
due to the nature of the problem of the textile industry namely reduce/2016052511450
'Fast Fashion' and which occurs as a result of consumer 11. Henke CR. The Sustainable University: Repair as
behavioral changes and manufacturer/marketing influence. Maintenance and Transformation. Retrieved 2017, from
Researchers note that textile production is a highly complex http://www.continentcontinent.cc/:
process and bringing about sustainable changes in the http://www.continentcontinent.cc/index.php/continent/art
production as well as the consumption pattern requires a icle/view/279
multifaceted approach involving scientific, socialist as well as 12. Hill J, SB. A Zero Waste UK. (ippr and Green Alliance
political approaches. Research also recommends that 2006) Retrieved November 7, 2017, from institute for
improved statements from governments, producers and public policy research and green alliance:
scientists are important to raise awareness and tackle the http://www.green-
problem of sustainability. alliance.org.uk/resources/A%20zero%20waste%20UK.pd
f
6. References 13. Horrocks AR. In A. R. Horrocks (Ed.), Recycling Textile
1. Alatervo SJ. The 6 Rs: making a sustainable impact. and Plastic Waste (p. 9). Cambridge, England: woodhead
Retrieved June 2016, from prosperous way down: Publishing Limited, 1996.
https://prosperouswaydown.com/6rs-making-sustainable- 14. Johnson J. History of quilting. (E. S. University,
impact/ Producer), 2019. Retrieved from
2. Brundtland Commission. UN general Assembly 1987, https://www.emporia.edu:
page 25. Retrieved from UN general Assembly, 4th https://www.emporia.edu/cgps/tales/quilte~1.html
August 1987: 15. Judd J. The 5 “R’s” of Zero Waste: A Practical Guide.
http://www.sswm.info/sites/default/files/reference_attach Retrieved August 2017, from © 2017 zerowasteXchange:
ments/UN%20WCED%201987%20Brundtland%20Repo https://zerowastexchange.org/551/the-5-rs-of-zero-waste-
rt.pdf a-practical-guide
3. Parvathi C, TM. Environmental impacts of textile 16. Kala M, Sharma A. The Environmentalist 2010;30(1):85-
industries, 2009. Retrieved January 2014, from 89. Retrieved from www.researchgate.net:
http://www.indiantextilejournal.com/: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/226961418_Tra
http://www.indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.as ditional_Indian_beliefs_A_key_toward_sustainable_livin
p?id=2420%20 g
4. Collins H. (2012). https://www.dictionary.com/. (1. ©. © 17. Kate F, Lynda G. Fashion & Sustainability: Design for
William Collins Sons & CO. LTD. 1979, Producer) Change. In F. Kate, & G. Lynda, Fashion &
Retrieved from Sustainability: Design for Change, 2012, 124-129.
https://www.dictionary.com/browse/recycle?s=t London: Laurence King Publishing Limited.
5. Ducey. Quilt History Timeline, Pre-History – 1800. 18. Keshishian K, Howe J. Repurposed Textiles, Part 2.
(International Quilt Study Center), 2014. Retrieved Retrieved from rjohnhowe.wordpress.com:
December 14, 2017, from https://rjohnhowe.wordpress.com/2013/01/18/kirk-
file:///F:/quilthistorytimeline.pdf: keshishian-and-john-howe-on-repurposed-textiles-part-1-
file:///F:/quilthistorytimeline.pdf the-lecture/
6. Ducey C. (n.d.). Quilt History Timeline, Pre-History – 19. Magnus B, Michele M. Introducing the Sustainability
1800. (International Quilt Study Center) Retrieved Challenge. Springer, 2016, 367-375. Retrieved from
December 14, 2017, from https://link.springer.com/content/pdf/10.1007%2Fs10603
file:///F:/quilthistorytimeline.pdf: -016-9336-6.pdf
file:///F:/quilthistorytimeline.pdf 20. Sarabhai VK. Sustainability, ESD and the Hindu
7. EPA. Learn About Sustainability. United States Tradition, 2011. Retrieved from http://earthcharter.org/:
~ 224 ~
International Journal of Home Science http://www.homesciencejournal.com

http://earthcharter.org/invent/images/uploads/15%20Man
uscrip_Kartikeya.pdf
21. Sinha P et al. Creating a global vision for sustainable
fashion. Pakisthan Textile Journal 2012;I(I):46-54.
Retrieved November 6, 2017, from Pakistan Textile
Journal: http://www.ptj.com.pk/Web-2012/01-
2012/January-2012-PDF/Apparel-and-Knitwear-
Recycled-Clothes.pdf
22. Strand of Silk. JOURNEY MAP / WEST BENGAL /
KANTHA EMBROIDERY / HISTORY, 2016. Retrieved
from strandofsilk.com: https://strandofsilk.com/journey-
map/west-bengal/kantha-embroidery/history
23. Taylor MC. Fast, cheap and out of control: How hyper-
consumerism drives us mad. Salon, 2014. Retrieved
Janauary 21, 2014, from
https://www.salon.com/2014/11/02/fast_cheap_and_out_
of_control_how_hyper_consumerism_drives_us_mad/
24. Textile Sector Profile. Industrial Extension Bureau,
Textile. Gujarat: Govt. of Gujarat, 2017. Retrieved
September 12, 2019
25. UN. Sustainable Development Goal, 2016. 10. Retrieved
January 2017, from sustainabledevelopment.un.org:
https://sustainabledevelopment.un.org/sdg10
26. Wickell J. How to Use Patchwork. US: thesprucecrafts,
2019. Retrieved from
https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/what-is-patchwork-
2821590
27. William M. A Centennial Sermon: Design, Ecology,
Ethics and the Making of Things, 1993. Retrieved
January 26, 2014, from http://www.mcdonough.com/:
http://www.mcdonough.com/writings/centennial-sermon-
design-ecology-ethics-making-things/

~ 225 ~