Violet

Evergarden
Cosplay Guide
____
by Maggy Cosplay
Disclaimers:
1. I've been getting a lot of questions about how I made specific parts of
my Violet Evergarden cosplay, so this guide is my way of sharing my
methods with people who are struggling with their own costume or
haven't even started and need some encouragment.
2. This project ain't easy. It took me over two months to complete with
most of my time (minus sleep and a full-time job) put into crafting. But
I believe that if a cosplay noob like myself could do it, then so can
anyone else, especially with even a basic knowledge of sewing and
costuming, so don't get discouraged! (Also, I got you covered with all
the "figuring-out" parts, so you don't have to worry about that :)
3. Like I said - it's a difficult project, but there's few things as satisfying as
crafting something with your own hands. However there's no shame in
asking for help, especially when you're losing your sanity from doing the
same arduous task for hours. That's why, whenever I could pull him
away from WoW raids, I dumped some of the work on my wonderful
boyfriend, who helped shorten the whole process by about 10%.
4. I won't be including patterns for the clothing. The ones I made were
pretty much crap, that I had to modify on the fly, so I'd rather that you
draft your own patterns properly from scratch, instead of using mine :)
Don't worry though, I'll show you how to do it.
5. I am by no means qualified to give proffesional costume making advice -
in fact this was one of my very first cosplays! So please take all this with
a grain of salt and treat it more as a very general reference rather than
step-by-step instructions.
6. I haven't always included obvious stuff like "secure raw edges" or "cut
with seam allowance" to not make this document even longer.
7. I didn't take good progress pictures most of the way, so the imiges you'll
see are mostly phone-camera quality, sometimes even with signs from
Instagram stories. I wasn't planning on writing a guide, okay?
8. Before tackling your own Violet Evergarden costume, be sure to
thoroughly study her design - take tons of screenshots from all angles
and study all the individual elements that make up her costume. I
wouldn't recommend looking for reference online, as there are two
different official designs of Violet - one from the novel and one from the
anime, not to mention people's own interpretations in fan art and
cosplay, so it can get a bit confusing if you're just starting to plan your
costume. I'm not saying alternative versions are bad, and you should
only stick to the original - only that if you want to follow this guide, you
need to study the anime version.
9. Shoes are not included. Due to lack of time I just used some red boots I
ordered online.
Part 1: The white dress
I try to start with the most visible parts of
the costume, so that if I'm short on time
before the convention/photoshoot, I'll have
enough of the character to make her
recognisable. It's also pretty motivating to
have a big chunk of the cosplay checked off
at the very start :)

What you'll need:

• 6m of white fabric (I used a light
poliester crepe, because it holds
pleats nicely. For all you Polish folks,
it was specifically this one:
https://orientfashion.pl/krepa/katrina-krepa/katrina-krepa-1-bialy-
3773 ). Whatever you use, choose something lightweight, cause this
dress is gonna be HEAVY.
• 3m of dark-brown lining. I reccommend buying the fancier viscose type,
cause a lot of the lining will be visible.
• 4m of cheap non-stretch fabric for mock-up (I used bed sheets I got
from the thrift store)
• A blouse that fits you perfectly (don't get too attatched to it, as we'll be
cutting it up)
• 3m of 5cm wide horsehair braid (aka. crinoline tape)
• 3-4 pairs of hooks and bars
• 1 invisible white zipper
• Basic sewing supplies (sewing machine, matching thread, scrissors etc)
• A dress form your size (I suppose it would be possbile without it, but
personaly I just can't imagine completing such a big sewing project
without one)
• And most importantly: a rudamentory knowledge of how to
google stuff.
We'll be starting with the top part.
There's only one scene in the anime where Violet has no jacket on, but it's
enough for us.

Violet Evergarden ep. 10

We can see that the bodice has no fastening in the front, so we can safely
assume the dress will be secured at the back (we'll be using an invisible zipper
and hooks and bars). Another thing we can see - the sleeves are constructed
from two parts: a puffy, pleated top and fitted bottom.
So step zero is creating pattern pieces
for the bodice and sleeves.
Put the disposable blouse on your
mannequin and mark center front and
center back lines with a marker. Then
put the blouse on yourself and mark a
straight line parralell to the cuff,
somewhere above your elbow - that
will be the bottom of the puff sleeve. If
your blouse has a collar - you can
ignore it and just leave a neckline that
sits snuggly arround your neck. Finally
mark a line on the bodice where you
want your skirt to sit - I marked a bit
above the waist.
Mark several short lines perpendicular
to the marks you just made - these will
help you allign the pattern pieces to
each other later. Be sure to mark
where the shoulder seam meets
the sleeve!
Cut the blouse along the marked lines,
as well as rip the side, shoulder and
sleeve seam. You only need one sleeve
and half of the bodice's front and back, since they're symmetrical pattern
pieces. You should have 4 pattern pieces at this point. If your blouse has
darts, make sure to open them with a seam ripper and mark them with a
marker for good meassure.
Next wel'll be drafting the puffy sleeve pattern. Make several cuts parrallell to
the sleeve seam, but have them stop just before the top. Distribute the cut
stripes in an arc and transfer the pattern to a piece of paper. Here's a handy
guide to help visualise the process:

For the collar I didn't even make a pattern, so you can add that when
assembling the final dress.

Now it's time to make a mock-up!

Sadly, this part is important if you
want to follow my method, so just
bear with me, I promise this is the
hardest and least fun part of making
the costume. Transfer all your
pattern pieces onto the mock-up
fabric with 2cm seam allowance, and
sew the bodice together, using the
second half of the original blouse as
a guide. Remember to mark all your
darts and guide lines and then allign
them together with pins before
sewing. No need to close the back
seam (for both the bodice and the
skirt later on) - for now you can just
leave them open and pin them to
your dress form.

For the bodice front: allign the

center front of your pattern along a
folded edge of the fabric, then cut to
get one whole symmetrical piece
without a center seam.

For the sleeves - gather the bottom

part of your puff pieces with a wide running stitch untill the lenghth matches
the top part of the bottom sleeve piece. Leave about 5 cm un-ruffled on each
side, so you'll have more freedom around the armpit. Sew the puff part to the
non-puff part and then onto the armholes of the bodice.

Yes, I do take commissions for proffesional technical drawings

For the lower part, you'll need a very basic circle skirt. If you're reading this,
then I'm assuming you're not one of those people who are scared to death of
tutorials and googling things. Therefore I won't be writing the 1000th tutorial
on "how to make a circle skirt" - just google it and then continue reading :)
Cut the skirt out from your mock-up fabric. Make the skirt's length as desired
(mine was 60 cm, about knee-length), and the inner circumference about the
same length as the bottom of your bodice.
Attatch the skirt to the bodice, but leave the
back open.

Once you have your mock-up roughly

assembled, put a petticoat on your mannequin
to give the dress some puff. To better visualise
the final shape, use a bustle pillow or crinoline
so that the back sticks out further. I used a cat
pillow.

It took me a lot of figuring out how to make the

bustle ruffles, but you can skip including them
in the mock-up, as the "figuring out" is already
done. If you really want to though, you can see
further ahead how I make them in the final
dress.
Now mark the brown stripes that Violet has on
her dress. I used a ribbon to get a general idea of how they're gonna look, then
pinned it in place and traced onto the mock-up with a marker. You can decide
how wide they're gonna be, mine were 2.5cm. Just make sure they're
symmetrical on both sides.
If neccesary, make slight adjustments to your pattern (longer sleeves, wider
neckline etc.)

When you're satisfied with your mock-up, take of the pined ribbon and cut
out the entire front piece. Use the stripes you just drew as a guide, but cut in
the center of the outmost stripes. This piece will be the pleated part of
Violet's white dress (or at least the pattern for it).

Okay. time for the real deal! Transfer the bodice pattern pieces to your fancy
white fabric and sew together. For the back panels: stitch them together only
about 8cm from the bottom edge of the bodice - this is where our zipper will
end later on.

For the collar just cut out a trapezoid as long as the neckline and about 10 cm
wide. Secure all edges (for example with a rolled hem), gather at 3 points, as
shown below and attatch to neckline. Attatch hooks and bars at the back,

though I suggest you do this after the zipper is installed near the end.

You can leave the side seams open for now - you'll have an easier time sewing
in the sleeves later.
Ok, time to do some pleating. I've seen people do this part from already
pleated fabric, printed fabric or just leave it smooth altogether. NOT US
THOUGH, WE'RE GONNA DO IT THE HARD WAY!

So there are many ways

to pleat fabric. Use
Google to choose your
favorite one. The most
important part is that
you use an iron and
pleat enough fabric to
cover the front panel we
created earlier from our
mock-up as well as two
puff sleeve pieces. See? Pleats!
For me it was a rectangle of about 80x150cm (150 is the width of my fabric)
but you'll have to measure for yourself. I chose to make knife pleats, just
because those are the quickest to make, but feel free to do box pleats or even
double box pleats if you're feeling EXTRA FANCY.
A helpful tip is to use a HECKTON of clips or pins to secure each pleat on
both ends so it won't fall appart when you're cutting your pieces.

Once you've got your pleated fabric (and sanity back from all those hours of
ironing), place the front panel and puff sleeve patterns onto the fabric, trace
out and secure each piece with a long machine stich along the edges to hold
the pleats in place. Pro tip: If you're using knife pleats, be sure to place the
sleeve pieces in a way, that the "direction" of the pleats will be symmetrical on
the dress (mine were facing outwards).

Sew your pleated front panel onto the bodice front. Be sure to first sew the
darts, if there were any in the initial blouse that you used for the pattern.
Don't even try machine sewing those darts though - I broke a needle trying to
stitch through all those layers of pleats.

For the sleeves - repeat the same steps as from the mock-up. You might need
to use some hand stitching and plyers when securing the gathered puff pleats
to the bottom sleeve piece, as the fabric there is really dense.

Now for the skirt - same as before, but now cut out two halves of a circle skirt,
with an inner circumference rougly the same as the bottom of the bodice.
 Cut the same two pieces out of your
brown lining and line the white circle
halves, but leave one side (the backs)
open. This will be where the bustle will
be attatched. Sew skirt pieces onto
bodice, starting at the pleated front
panel and ending at the center back. You
will have to do some gathering, but that
just gives the skirt more volume. Sew
bottom part of pleated panel onto skirt
and trim off eccess skirt.

Now that your pleated panel is secured

in place, create 4 long stripes out of the
brown lining (mine were 140 cm x 2.5
cm) and sew them along the edges of the
panel and on the back, using your
pattern piece from the mock-up as a
guide. Leave the ends of the lower stripe
on the back unattatched - you'll need to
make the bustle ruffle first. (Refer to a
refence if you have no idea what I mean)
Now you can install the invisible zipper
on the back. Again - refer to google on
how to sew a hidden zipper.

The pattern for the busttle ruffle is two symmetrical trapezoids, joined at the
shortest edge.

The length of the trapezoids depends on how many "waves" you want, I just
chose 140cm, cause that was the width of my fabric. As before - cut out each
piece from the white material, then line it with brown. Hem bottom edges of
the trapezoids with horsehair braid - this is optional, I guess, but it gives the
ruffles a nice "bouncyness". Again - refer to google on how to sew horsehair
braid. Pro tip: make sure the trapezoids are mirrored. I accidentaly sewed
two identical ones and believe me - ripping out 2 meters of seams ain't fun
(Though my wonderful boyfriend mioght have helped here).
Attatch the longer edge of each trapezoid to the open back edge of the skirt.
Some messy top stitching is required here, but honestly - I haven't figured out
how to do it without re-intenving the
entire process from scratch, so just bear
with me, this part will be covered by
ruffles anyway.

Sew the shorter edges of the trapezoids

together (more messy top-stitching!)
and fold your ruffles in a way that they
create those symmetrical "waves". A
bunch of pins is really handy here.

Hand-stitch the ruffles to the back of the

bodice, below the zipper. This part is a
bit tricky, but here are some tips to
maybe make it easier:
• Start with the longest "wave" and
gradualy sew each one a few
milimeters higher onto the bodice.
• Measure the width of each fold
and sew them on symmetricly on
both sides one by one, rather than doing one side first.
• Use small back-stitches, as those are the most durable.
• Sew white side to white side when attatching the smallest wave, to have
it stick out more.
Now that your bustle ruffle is in place, attatch the ends of the brown strips to
the dress just above where the bustle ruffle begins.

For the neck ruffle thingy I just cut out a wide

rectangle, secured edges, ruffled with a running stitch
and attatched it to the dress at the neckline. The
original design has cut-out ornaments, but I didn't
have time to figure those out, so I just left it like this.
Part 2: Jacket
What you'll need:
• 1m of stiff navy blue fabric (Pro tip: I
suggest taking a swatch of the fabric and
testing out how it looks in different lighting
environments before buying. I made the
mistake of buyng the perfect fabric, only to
discover it looked almost black at home, not
to mention in crappy convention hallway
lighting, so I had to revisit the fabric store
and re-empty my wallet ;_;)
• 1m of cheap mock-up fabric
• scraps of the brown lining from the dress
• 10 cm of mustard yellow fabric
• a perfectly fitting thrift store jacket for
patterning
• 1 m of lining (optional, only if you're not
short on time)
• Polymorph or Worbla Deco Art
• Fimo clay
• gold spray paint
• a hook and bar
• basic sewing stuff

So for the pattern I used the same method as for the dress - start with trying
on the thrift store jacket and mark how short you want it - the original ends
just under the bust. Cut jacket to desired length, then rip the seams on one
half of the jacket to get your pattern pieces.
Depending on the cut of your jacket, you might need to modify the collar to
get those wide lapels that Violet had. Cut the puff sleeve pattern using the
same technique as in the dress, only this time cut out a "window" in the
middle to allow the white ruffles of the dress to peak out.

I recommend doing a mockup for this as well - it was a bit tricky for me to get
the sleeves right, but if you feel confident enough, feel free to transfer the
pieces straight to your fancy fabric.

Sew everything together (use the un-ripped half of the jacket as reference if
you can't remember how the pieces went together).

Before stitching the right shoulder seam, create the brown belt - deside what
width you would like it to be (I made it about 5cm) and sew a short strip of it
into the seam at an angle. I used the same brown lining as for the skirt and
dress stripes, but feel free to use faux leather or whatever you want.

When gathering the puff sleeves, leave about 4 cm unruffled just below the
"window" to help keep it's shape.
Attatch a hook and bar to connect the front (Though after wearing this to a
con I think a snap would work better here).

Next step is to hem the sleeve windows. Create about 3cm wide bias tape from
the yellow material and hem the windows (Google: "how to make bias tape",
"bias binding hemline").
Next up create 2 little bows from the same yellow material and attatch them
at the bottom of the windows (I think I used hot glue, because I was short on
time, but feel free to stitch).
 If you have an approximately 8cm
ring at hand - just spray paint it gold
and use it for the ring on Violet's
back. I didn't have such a thing, so I
made mine from Polymorph, painted
it and attatched it to the brown belt
hanging from the right shoulder. If
you haven't yet, make more of the
brown belt and attatch one end to the
ring. On the other end attatch a
buckle (also Polymorph + spray
paint) which should be able to fit
around the gold button attatched to
the right lapel (this one I made from
Fimo). Before baking your Fimo
button, make sure to punch tiny holes in the crevices so that you can pull your
thread and sew it to the jacket later on. Don't forget to spray paint all the
elements before attatching them!

Please don't mind the product placement or the human hands

Part 3: Broches
What you'll need:
• Fimo clay,
• Gold spray paint,
• Mod Podge or other glue that
dries transparent,
• Clay modeling tools,
• Different shades of blue and
green paper,
• A green resin-cast gem.

For the emerald brooch I started with

a base green oval gem 5.5cm long. Feel
free to mold and cast it yourself, but
silicone and resin are pretty toxic and
expensive, so just ask a more experienced cosplayer to cast it for you - it
should be inexpensive, as a small gem like this doesn't require much material
(I got mine from Shappi Workshop).

I traced the gem onto green paper. Next I just glued tiny bits of different
colored paper and made some splotches with a black sharpie until I liked the
look of it. Then I cut out the oval and glued the paper base to the brooch with
Mod Podge.

Next up was the brooch base. I made a flat sheet of

Fimo (about 3mm wide), traced the brooch onto it
and cut it out with my plastic modeling tools. Then I
built delicate ornaments around it, loosely
replicating the reference image. Mostly it's just tiny
tiny Fimo tubes and spheres, placed symmetrically
around the oval.

The Auto-Memories Doll brooch was also fimo - I

started with the arc, then added one wing, then the
bird and finally the little hollow circles and also poked tiny eye-holes in the
bird's head with a pointy modeling tool.

While I had my hands dirty with Fimo clay I made tiny little rings for the
jacket lapels (although I'm pretty sure those are just snaps that secure the
lapels to the jacket, but there was no open sewing store on the night before
the convention ;_;) and the beads at the ends of the leather thong around
Violet's neck.

Throw all the Fimo pieces in the oven for 30 minutes, let them cool
completely and spray paint 'em gold.

I glued the gem to the base with CA glue

(aka. super glue) and didn't really have any
idea how to fasten it to the dress, so I just
super glued a safety pin to the back and
secured it to the neck ruffle, though that's
probably just a temporary solution. The
Auto-Memory pin was so tiny, that I just
stitched it directly to the lapel with gold
thread. Same with the tiny fake snaps. And
the beads are just super-glued to the ends
of the thong.
Part 4: Mechanical hand gloves
What you'll need:
• Black, stretchy gloves,
• A rubber glove for
patterning,
• 2-3 A4 size sheets of
1mm EVA foam,
• Plasti-Dip or other base
coat,
• Silver spray paint,
• Hot glue gun,
• Contact cement,
• Exacto knife,
• Heat gun,
• (optional) rotary tool.

Start with putting on a rubber glove. Look up some reference images and
draw the silver plates of Violet's hand onto the glove with a marker. While
sketching, take into account that the backs of the finger pieces will have to be
narrower than the fronts, so that your fingers can easily bend. Then take off
the glove and mark each piece with an alphabet letter (I also drew a crude
scheme of the whole glove to later remember where each piece went). Cut out
all the pieces - make the cuts on the finger pieces face the middle of your
palm.

Transfer the rubber pieces to paper, remembering to include the marking.

Some of the hand pieces are interlocking, so you'll have to take that into
account while transfering. Also remember that foam shrinks from heat
and the glove you'll be glueing the pieces onto also has some thickness, so for
good meassure make all the pieces 2-3mm bigger.

Trace the paper pieces onto foam, cut with an exacto knife and mark them
with appropriate letters as well.

The center piece on the back of your palm has a ridge to it - to achieve that,
mark the center vertical line on the left side of your foam piece. Bend it so the
right sides are facing each other and delicatly run your rotarty tool over the
marked line. For an even sharper effect, bend it with the left sides facing each
other while applieing heat from a heat gun.

Heat seal all the other pieces as well. For the finger parts: bend them over
your fingers immediatly after applieing heat, so they keep their shape after
cooling.
Pro tip: to avoid your tiny pieces flying accross the room while heat sealing -
place them inside a roll of masking tape. I got this tip and practically all my
knowledge of foam fabrication from Kamui Cosplay (Buy her books!).

Next up, apply contact cement to all the seams, wait till it dries and carefully
align the seams together.

For an additional level of detailing, you can draw thin lines of "wire" running
accross the length of your black glove fingers with silver acrylic paint. Another
optional thing you can do at this point is create rivets imitating screws on
some of the pieces - I made mine by gently pressing the foam with my rotary
tool with a hollow cylindrical piece attatched. I highly remommend practicing
on scrap foam pieces first though.

Coat your pieces with 2-3 layers of Plasti Dip, then spray paint them silver.
The alphabet markings dissapear after coating, so I hang my pieces on a
string in alphabetical order before priming and painting.

Finally attatch the pieces to the black glove with hot glue. Do not apply glue
while the glove is on your hand, because you will get burns! (been there)
Instead, try stuffing the glove with a sock, and with pencils for the finger
parts, so that it keeps it's shape while glueing.

Okay, now do that all over again for the other glove! Just remember when
bending the pieces to maintain symmetry with your other hand.
Part 5: Parasol
You'll need:
• A base parasol (ain't nobody got time to craft a parasol from scratch,
duh)
• A seam ripper
• 1m of white poliester lining
• 1m of light-blue poliester lining
• 30 cm of blue poliester lining
• Glue gun
• Mod Podge or Frey Check

I bought the base parasol on Aliexpres. I won't be pasting links here, as those
usually expire after a month or so, but the phrase you want to search for is
"pagoda parasol" and find an option with the color "blue".

When your parasol arrives from China, the first thing to do is carefully rip out
the black lace. (A patient and helpful boyfriend is the key here).

Next up: the ruffles. If you look at the reference, you can distinguish 4 layers:
2 x light blue, white, and blue ribbons.
I started with the white ruffle. I chose poliester lining, because it most
resembled parasol material, but feel free to use actual water-resistant
umbrella fabric if you can find it. Cut out strips of the white lining as long as
the fabric width (mine was 150cm) and 14cm wide. You'll need 3-5 of these,
but you can start with 3 and cut out more along the way. I secured the edges
by brushing on a thin strip of Mod Podge, so the edges won't fray (again,
having someone to help you with this tedious work is great). If you decide to
hem all the strips or secure them with bias tape - I salute your patience, but I
find that Mod Podge is completely fine in this case.

Next: loosely gather the strips about 1-2 cm from the edge (choose your
favorite gathering method, I used my sewing machine) and glue it around the
edge of the parasol. I reccomend puting a little spurt of glue on each rib,
rather than an unbroken string of glue along the entire length. This way you
can easily rip it off if necesarry and it doesn't add extra weight to the parasol.

Next up, meassure the span of two ribs and trace a "smiling mouth" pattern as
wide as the span. Cut it out 16 times from the light blue fabric (or 8 times, if
your material is not opaque like mine) and make 8 double-sided pieces by
glueing them on the edges with Mod Podge. Use hot glue to secure them on
the parasol just above the white ruffle. Naturally, if your parasol doesn't have
16 ribs, then figure out how much of these pieces you need first (Having the
reference in front of you is key).

Using the same method as with the white ruffle, cut out long 4cm wide strips
from the light-blue fabric and gather them in the middle. Secure edges with
hot glue along the wider curve of the "smiley" pieces.

Last but not least - make 8 little blue bows and sew them onto the parasol.
This might be a bit tricky, as your needle will most likely want to go through
all the hot glue, and good luck trying to pierce that silicone. Just try to poke
the parasol several times until you find a spot that's not giving much
resistance and pull your needle and thread through there. 3-4 stitches should
be enough, as there won't be much pressure put on the bows, but make sure
to use double thread and secure the first and last stitch properly.
Part 6: Misc. elements
Gloves - The mechanicals hands aren't the handiest (pun intended) thing to
wear during a convention, so for walking around I bought some dark-brown
leather gloves at a local butique. They weren't the cheapest, but they're
universal enough to use in every day life during the fall season. Also, they're
canon!
Tights - Just normal, cumfy black thights, about 20 den
Petticoat - I used two petticoats actually - a white one and then a brown one,
which I didn't actually put on, but safety pinned to the back of the white
one to get that bustle sticking out. I was short on time, OKAY?!
Wig - I got mine from L-email (aka. wig-supplier.com) however it required
some additional work. I re-made the braid buns so they fit the oryginal style
more and replaced the bright red ribbons with more toned-down ones. I also
did some styling on the fringe with the ol' "got 2b + hair dryer" method.
Though, looking at the photos, I should have also trimmed it a bit as well.
Contact lenses - The exact model I got is Kimchi Viva Blue from
Uniqso.com. For Violet it's often accentuated that she was very doll-like, so
your lenses need to be huge and exagerated. I'm not 100% satisfied with mine,
as they don't have extreme coverage, but I'm sure you can find something
better on all the lens sites out there.
Make up - well, I'm just a begginer at this cosplay thing, but I especially suck
at make-up, so from all the tutorials I've watched I can only say this: Use fake
lashes (even two pairs per eye, for that doll-like look), use a much brighter
foundation than your natural skin tone and exagerate your blush game.
Suitcase - Grandma's attic ™
Bonus: Budget break-down
Keep in mind that these are Eastern Europe and China prices, so depending
on where you live, you'll have to take your country's economy into account.
However, you should be able to make a rough estimation of your own, using
this shopping list as reference on what you'll need.

Item Store Price

Fabrics Local fabric store, online 70$

Wig Aliexpress 30$
Contact Lenses Uniqso 30$
Gloves Local boutique 20$
Shoes Deichmann (secon-hand) 14$
Parasol Aliexpress 16$
Materials (foam, glue,
online, arts supply stores 15$
paint, thread, clay, etc.)

Total 195$

Final Acknowledgements
Thank you so much for reading this far! I hope this guide was clear to
understand and good enough to get you started on your own Violet
Evergarden costume. Please, if you use even parts of this guide in your own
cosplay - tag me or send me a private message, I'd LOVE to see your work :)
Social Media:
Facebook: @MaggyCosplay
Instagram: @maggy_cosplay