Fall

Forest
Floor
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Fall Forest Floor
A scattering of dimensional colorful autumn leaves creates an enchanting décor piece.

Quilt Designed & Made by

Abigail Dolinger

Skill Level
Intermediate

Finished Size
17½" x 57½"

NOTE: See Pattern Pull-Out Section for

appliqué templates.

Planning
“Autumn’s color impressions have lasted leaves give the impression of an underly-
throughout the years,” Abigail said. “I ing blanket of leaves and the 3-D leaves
remember a maple tree in a neighbor’s give the impression of scattered leaves
yard where I grew up in Virginia that on top.”
‘bloomed’ brilliant orange every fall.
And a ginkgo tree that changed its green This pattern has multiple stages; the
leaves to golden in the schoolyard. My checkerboard base is quilted before
mind’s eye can see the flaming crim- the raw-edge fusible appliqué and the
son of poison sumac on my in-laws’ finished-edge dimensional leaf appliqués
Pennsylvania farm. A fall vacation with are secured. Abigail used one fabric for
friends to Colorado acquainted me with each leaf shape; our instructions do
shimmering yellow aspen leaves. Brisk the same. However, feel free to experi-
walks on our property in North Carolina ment with different color distributions
showed me purple sweet gum leaves in and placements. Fabrics for appliqué
abundance. This project brings the best templates A–F should be prepared with
of nature’s autumn colors indoors where paper-backed fusible web before cutting
they delight my eyes, conjure memories, the patches.
and cheer my heart. Machine-zigzagged

Pattern provided courtesy of APQS & Quilting Daily. Find more free patterns at [Link]/free-patterns or [Link]/free-patterns. | 2
 Fabric Requirements
Fabric yardage assumes 40" usable width
of fabric (WOF) unless otherwise noted.

•  White tonal
3/4 yd. for background
•  Cream tonal
11/8 yds. for background and binding
•  Brown tonal
1 fat quarter* for appliqué
•  Green tonal
1 fat quarter* for appliqué
•  Orange tonal
1 fat quarter* for appliqué
•  Light blue tonal
1 fat eighth** for appliqué
•  Gold tonal
1 fat quarter* for appliqué
•  Maroon tonal
1 fat quarter* for appliqué
•  Red tonal
1 fat quarter* for appliqué
•  Purple tonal
1 fat quarter* for appliqué
•  Medium blue tonal
1 fat quarter* for appliqué
•  Paper-backed fusible web
•  Template plastic
•  Backing
13/8 yds.
•  Batting
22" x 66"
*fat quarter = 18" x 20"
**fat eighth = 9" x 20"

NOTE: Fabrics in the quilt shown are

from the Shadow Play, Pearl Essence, and
Opal Essence collections, all by Maywood
Studio.

Pattern provided courtesy of APQS & Quilting Daily. Find more free patterns at [Link]/free-patterns or [Link]/free-patterns. | 3
Cutting Instructions Piecing the Blocks
Patches are lettered in order of use. Mea- 1   Referring to Diagram I-A, join 4 white Similarly, referring to Diagram I-B,
surements include ¼" seam allowances, tonal strips and 3 cream tonal strips join 4 cream and 3 white strips
except for appliqué templates A–F, which alternately as shown to make band A. alternately as shown to make band B.
do not have any seam allowance for use Cut band A into segments 3" wide as Cut band B into segments 3" wide to
with raw-edge fusible appliqué. Prepare shown to make 12 unit 1’s. make 11 unit 2’s as shown.
appropriate fabrics with paper-backed
fusible web before cutting templates A–F. 3"3" 3"3"
•  White tonal 3"3"xxWOF
WOF 3"3"xxWOF
WOF
7 strips 3" x WOF for bands 3"3"xxWOF
WOF 3"3"xxWOF
WOF
•  Cream tonal
7 strips 3" x WOF for bands
5 strips 2½" x WOF for binding
•  Brown tonal
6 template A
•  Green tonal
10 template B
•  Orange tonal Unit11
Unit BandAA
Band Unit22
Unit BandBB
Band
Cut1212
Cut Make11
Make Cut1111
Cut Make11
Make
6 template C
•  Light blue tonal DiagramI-A
Diagram I-A DiagramI-B
Diagram I-B
2 each template D and Dr
•  Gold tonal
3 template E
3 each template G and Gr
•  Maroon tonal
7 template F
•  Red tonal
8 template H
•  Purple tonal
12 template I
•  Medium blue tonal
4 each template J and Jr

AssemblyDiagram
Assembly Diagram

AppliquéPlacement
Appliqué Placement

MachineZigzag
Machine ZigzagStitch
Stitch

Pattern provided courtesy of APQS & Quilting Daily. Find more free patterns at [Link]/free-patterns or [Link]/free-patterns. | 4
2   Referring to Diagram II, sew G to Gr Assembling the Quilt Top
as shown, right sides together. Cut Unit 1 ReferAto Assembly Unit
NOTE: Band 2 for
Diagram Band B
a small opening in center of Gr as Cut 12 Make 1 Cut 11 Make 1
following steps, watching unit place-
shown, making sure not to cut into G. Diagram I-A Diagram I-B
ment.
Trim seam allowance to 1/8"; turn right
side out through cut opening and
3   Join unit 1’s alternately with unit 2’s as
shown to make quilt top.
press to make dimensional appliqué
G. Repeat to make dimensional ap-
pliqués H–J/Jr and set them aside for
step 6.

Gr

Assembly Diagram

Diagram II

Appliqué Placement

Machine Zigzag Stitch

Dimensional Appliqué Placement

Pattern provided courtesy of APQS & Quilting Daily. Find more free patterns at [Link]/free-patterns or [Link]/free-patterns. | 5
 Diagram I-A Diagram I-B

Quilting and Finishing

4   Layer, baste, and quilt. Abigail machine
quilted an allover loopy meander.
5   Referring to the Appliqué Placement
Diagram, arrange appliqué patches A–F
Gr
in alphabetical order on quilt as shown; Gr
fuse in place. Secure patches with a
Assembly Diagram G
machine zigzag stitch
Assembly and matching
Diagram G
Gr
thread.

Assembly Diagram G

Diagram II
Diagram II
Appliqué Placement
Appliqué Placement
Diagram II

Appliqué Placement

Machine Zigzag Stitch

Machine Zigzag Stitch

Machine Zigzag Stitch

6   Referring to the Dimensional Appliqué
Placement Diagram, place dimensional
appliqués G/Gr–J/Jr on quilt as shown.
Secure with a machine straight stitch
and contrasting thread, stitching lines
that resemble leaf veins on each dimen-
sional appliqué.

Dimensional Appliqué Placement

Dimensional Appliqué Placement

Dimensional Appliqué Placement

7   Bind the quilt.

Pattern provided courtesy of APQS & Quilting Daily. Find more free patterns at [Link]/free-patterns or [Link]/free-patterns. | 6
 Print at 100% (no scaling). This
box measures 2 inches wide
by 1 inch high. Use this as an
accuracy guide when printing
the templates.

Fall Forest Floor

Template F

Fall Forest Floor

Template C

24 McCall’s Quilting September/October 2022

 Print at 100% (no scaling). This
box measures 2 inches wide
by 1 inch high. Use this as an
accuracy guide when printing
the templates.

Template J and Jr
Fall Forest Floor
Fall Forest Floor
Template H

[Link] [Link]
 Fall Forest Floor
Template E
Template B
Fall Forest Floor

Fall Forest Floor

Template A

Print at 100% (no scaling). This

box measures 2 inches wide
by 1 inch high. Use this as an
accuracy guide when printing
the templates.
Template D and Dr
Fall Forest Floor

[Link]
 Print at 100% (no scaling). This
box measures 2 inches wide
by 1 inch high. Use this as an
accuracy guide when printing
the templates.

Template G and Gr
Fall Forest Floor
Fall Forest Floor
Template I

[Link] [Link]
 We indicate lengthwise or crosswise grain with an arrow on the
T H E B E S T O F A M E R I C A N Q U I LT I N G
templates.
Cutting

Quilt Basics To find the grainline of your fabric for rotary

cutting, hold the fabric with selvages paral-
lel in front of you. Keeping the selvages
together, slide the edge closest to you to

Getting Started one side or the other until the fabric hangs
straight, without wrinkles or folds. Then lay
the fabric down on your cutting mat and cut Cut

About our Patterns perpendicular to the fold line. Use this cut
We recommend that you read all of the instructions before edge as your straight-of-grain line. 1
2

starting a project and that you cut and sew one block be- Many patches can be cut from strips of fab-
3
4

fore cutting all of your fabric. ric by rotary cutting. First, cut a strip of fabric
5
1 2 3 4 5

Using a rotary cutter, mat and an acrylic ruler, cut the shape the width needed. Then, cross-cut strips into
to the size indicated in the cutting list. patches.
Cut
To cut from a template, place the template face down on the
1

Our patterns list finished block sizes, which are typically ½˝ 2

wrong side of the fabric and trace with a sharp pencil. Reverse
3

smaller than unfinished block sizes because they do not 4

(r) templates should be placed face up on the wrong side of the

5

include seam allowances.

1 2 3 4 5

fabric before tracing.

Piecing
Align the cut edges of fabric with the edge
Basic Quilting Supplies of the presser foot if it is ¼˝ wide. If not,
• Rotary cutter and mat • Darning foot place masking tape on the throat plate of
• Acrylic ruler: Many shapes • Pins your machine ¼˝ away from the needle to
and sizes are available; a • Ironing board & iron guide you. Sew all the way to the cut edge.
good one to start with is • Marking pencils/markers/
6˝ x 24˝ with ¼˝ and ⅛˝ etc.
Applique
The instructions give the applique technique used by the de-
markings • Needles
signer. Fusible applique patterns are already reversed. To convert
• Scissors: A separate pair • Thimble
between fusible designs and turned-edge, you may need to
for paper and fabric • Safety pins
reverse the design. No turn-under allowances are given on ap-
• Sewing machine • Template plastic
plique patterns. When positioning patches, leave enough space
• ¼˝ foot • Thread
around the outside edges of the block for trimming and seam
• Walking foot
allowance.
Finger crease the fabric in half lengthwise, crosswise and diago-
Preparing Your Fabric nally as needed to form guidelines for placement of the patches.
We recommend that you pre-wash your fabrics. A shrinkage
Use a tear-away stabilizer on the back to support machine stitch-
factor is included in our yardage computations.
ing that is dense (like satin stitching) and to keep the fabric from

Techniques
tunneling. Choose a stabilizer that matches the weight of the fab-
ric. After the applique is complete, gently remove the stabilizer.

Machine Piecing Fusible Applique

It is important to cut accurately and to sew exact ¼˝ seams. Raw-edge applique using paper-backed fusible web is a fast
and easy way to applique. Add E˝ underlap allowance to those
Templates edges that lie under another.
Trace the patterns on template plastic and cut out accurately.
Trace the pattern pieces, also drawing the needed underlap
Planning allowances, on the paper side of fusible web leaving at least ½˝
Measure, mark and cut the binding and between all the pieces. Cut about E˝ outside each drawn line.
border strips before cutting patches from
the same fabric. Cut larger patches before To eliminate stiffness, try this variation for patches larger than 1˝:
smaller ones. For best use of the fabric, Cut out the center of the fusible web ¼˝ inside the drawn line,
arrange patches with cutting lines close or making a ring of fusible web.
touching. Following the manufacturer’s directions, iron the web, paper
One or more straight sides of the patch should side up, to the wrong side of the fabric. Cut out the shape on
B B
follow the lengthwise (parallel to the selvages) the drawn line. Carefully pull away the paper backing. Fuse the
or crosswise (perpendicular to the selvages) A patches to the background where marked.
grain of fabric, especially the sides that will B To finish the raw edges, machine satin stitch with a colored thread,
B
be on the outside edges of the quilt block. or zigzag or blanket stitch using matching or invisible thread.

B B

A
Turned-Edge Applique Triangle-Squares
It is helpful to have as many bias edges as With right sides together and the lighter fabric on
possible on the perimeter of your applique top, pair one square of each color that makes
patches. Trace and cut on the seam line of the unit. On the lighter patch, draw a diagonal
the pattern to make a template. Place the line from corner to corner. Stitch ¼˝ out from
template face up on the right side of the fab- both sides of the line. Cut apart on the marked
ric (face down on the right side for a reverse line. With the darker fabric up, open out the top
patch) and lightly draw around it. Cut out patch and press the unit. A pair of squares will
each patch about E˝ outside the marked line. yield 2 units. These units will finish at the correct
On inward curves, clip the E˝ allowance size for each pattern. No trimming is needed.
almost to the marked seam line. Turn under the ­allowance and Stitch-and-Flip
finger press. Align a patch (* in this example) on a corner of a
* *
Pin or baste applique patches on the background fabric. To appli- unit or second patch right sides together. Mark a
que by hand, use a blind stitch and a thread color to match the diagonal line on the * patch from corner to corner
patch. To applique by machine, use a small zigzag or blind hem and sew on the marked line. Trim the seam allow-
stitch and a matching or invisible thread. ance to ¼˝ as shown. Flip the * patch open and
press.
If the background fabric shows through the appliqued patch, or if
there are lots of layers, carefully cut away the background fabric Foundation Piecing
to within E˝ of the applique patch or use 2 layers of applique Make paper copies of each foundation. Sew patches in numeri-
fabric. cal order. Center fabric under #1 extending beyond the seam
allowances, wrong side of the fabric to the
Continuous Bias Seam 2 unprinted side2 of the paper, and pin in place
1 2 1
Remove selvages from fabric and cut a square. from the paper
3 side. 3
Seam 1

Seam 1

(A 40˝ square should make about 16 yards of

4
Turn fabric side up. Using a patch of fabric suf- 4
2H˝-wide bias strip.)
ficient to cover #2 and its seam allowances,
With right sides facing and raw edges aligned, Seam 2 position the #2 patch2right sides together on 2
join triangles (seam 1) to form a parallelo- patch #1 as shown, so that3 the fabric’s edge 3
Seam 2
gram, as shown. Press seam open. Measure extends at least ¼˝ into 4the #2 area. Pin in 4
and mark across parallelogram with lines place. Set a very short stitch length on your
equal to the width of your bias strip. sewing machine 2 (18–20
1
stitches per inch or 2 1
Form a tube by aligning edges marked Seam 1 Seam 2 1.5 mm). Turn3 the assembly paper side up. 3

seam 2, matching your marked lines and Stitch through

4 the paper and the fabric layers 4
offsetting the edge of one strip width beyond Seam 1 along the printed seam line, beginning and
line. Stitch and press seam open. ending ¼˝ beyond the ends of the line.
Start at offset end and cut around the tube on Turn assembly to the fabric side. Trim the
marked lines for your continuous bias strip. Seam 2
seam allowances to approximately
3
¼˝. Press 3
the fabric open to cover #2 and seam allow-
Fast Flying Geese 4
ances. Repeat this process to complete the
4
Align 2 small squares on opposite corners of the large square, blocks or sections.
right sides together. Draw a diagonal line as shown and then
stitch ¼˝ out from both sides of the line. Cut apart on the Use a rotary cutter and ruler to trim ¼˝ outside the seam line of
marked line. the foundation, creating a seam allowance. Once all the seams
around a foundation section have been sewn, remove the paper
With the small squares on top, open ­foundations.
out the small squares and press
the unit. On the remaining corner Set-In Seams (Y Seams)
of each of these units, align a small A set-in patch is inserted in an angle formed by
•

square. Draw a line from corner two other patches.

to corner and sew ¼˝ out on both On the wrong side of the patches, use a ruler
•

sides of the line. Cut on the marked to mark an accurate ¼˝ seam line in all corners.
lines, open the small squares and With right sides together, align the edges of two
press.
•

patches and pin through the ¼˝ marks of both

Each set of 1 large square and patches.
4 small squares makes 4 Flying Sew the seam between the ¼˝ marks, backstitch-
Geese. These units will finish at the ing to secure the seam at the beginning and end.
correct size for each pattern. No Pivot the set-in patch so the adjacent edge aligns
trimming is needed. with the edge of the third patch. Matching seams,
pin in place. Starting exactly where the previous
seam ended, sew 2 stitches, then backstitch, taking care not to
stitch into the seam allowance. Stitch to the outer edge.
Borders Hand Quilting
Squared borders are added first to the sides Hand quilting is done in a short running stitch
of the quilt center, then to the top and bottom. with a single strand of thread that goes through
Lay the quilt top flat on a large table or the floor. all three layers.
Lay both border #1 side strips down the vertical Use a short needle (8 or 9 between) with about
center of the quilt top and smooth carefully into place. Slip a 18˝ of thread. Make a small knot in the thread, and take a long
small cutting mat under the quilt top (you’ll need to do this at first stitch (about 1˝) through the top and batting only, coming up
the top and the bottom) and use a rotary cutter and ruler to trim where the quilting will begin. Tug on the thread to pull the knot-
the border strips to the same length as the quilt top. Matching ted end between the layers. Take short, even stitches that are the
centers and ends, sew the border side strips to the quilt. Gently same size on the top and back of the quilt. Push the ­needle with
press the seam allowances away from the quilt center. Repeat a thimble on your middle finger; guide the fabric in front of the
this process along the horizontal center of the quilt, including the needle with the thumb of one hand above the quilt and with the
newly added borders. Repeat for any remaining borders. middle finger of your other hand under the quilt.
Marking To end a line of quilting, make a small knot in the thread close to
Trace the quilting motif on tracing paper. Place tracing paper the quilt top, push the needle through the top and batting only
under the quilt top with a light source behind. Lightly mark the and bring it to the surface about 1˝ away; tug the thread until the
design on the quilt top with a hard lead pencil or a marker of knot pulls through the quilt top, burying the knot in the batting.
your choice. Test any marking product for removability before Clip the thread close to the surface of the quilt.
using it on your quilt.
Binding
Straight lines may be ˝marked˝ as you quilt by using masking Baste around the quilt E˝ from the edges. Trim the batting and
tape that is pulled away after quilting along its edge. backing ¼˝ beyond the edge of the quilt top.
Backing and Basting To prepare the binding strips, place the ends of 2
Make the quilt backing 4˝–8˝ larger than the quilt top. Remove binding strips perpendicular to each other, right sides
the selvages to avoid puckers. Usually 2 or 3 lengths must be together. Stitch diagonally and trim to ¼˝. In this
sewn together; press the seam allowances open. Place the back- way, join all the strips and press the seam a­ llowances open.
ing wrong side up on a flat surface, stretch slightly and tape or pin
Cut the beginning of the binding strip at a 45˚ angle. Fold the
in place. Smooth the batting over the backing. Center the quilt ¼”
binding strip in half along the length, wrong sides together, and
top right side up on top of the batting. Pin the l­ayers as necessary
press. Starting in the middle of a side and leaving a 6˝ tail of bind-
to secure them while basting. ¼”
ing loose, align the raw edges of the binding
Basting for Machine Quilting with the edge of the quilt top. Begin ¼”
Tops to be machine quilted may be basted with sewing the binding to the quilt us- ¼”
rustproof safety pins. Begin at the ­center and place ing a ¼˝ seam allowance. Stop ¼˝
pins 3˝ to 4˝ apart, avoiding lines to be quilted. from the first corner; backstitch. ¼”
Basting for Hand Quilting Remove the needle from the quilt
Beginning in the center of the quilt, baste hori- and cut the threads.
¼”
zontal and ­vertical lines 4˝ to 6˝ apart. Fold the binding up, then back down
Quilting even with edge of the quilt.¼”Begin stitch-
Quilt in the ditch refers to quilting right ing ¼˝ from the binding fold, backstitch
next to the seam line on the side without to secure and continue sewing. Repeat
seam allowances. Outline quilting refers at all corners. When nearing
to quilting ¼˝ from the seam line. Echo the starting point, leave at least
quilting refers to quilting one or more 12˝ of the quilt edge unbound
lines of stitching in uniform distances away and a 10˝ to 12˝ binding
from a patch. tail. Smooth the beginning
tail over the ending tail.
Machine Quilting Following the cut edge of
Before machine quilting, bring bobbin thread to the top of the the beginning tail, draw a
quilt so it doesn’t get caught as you quilt: lower presser foot, line on the ending tail at a 45º angle. To add a seam allowance,
hold the top thread and take one stitch down and up, lift the draw a cutting line ½˝ out from the first line;
presser foot to release the thread tension and tug on the top make sure it guides you to cut the binding tail ½˝
thread to draw a loop of the bobbin thread to the top of the longer than the first line. Cut on this second line.
quilt. Pull the bobbin thread to the top. Lower needle into the
same hole created by the initial stitch, lower the presser foot, To join the ends, place them
and start quilting. A walking foot is used for straight-line or ditch right sides together. Offset
quilting. To free-motion quilt, drop (or cover) the feed dogs and the points so the strips match
use a darning foot. Start and end quilting lines with ¼˝ of very ¼˝ in from the edge and sew. Press the seam allowances open.
short stitches to secure. Press the section of binding in half and then finish sewing it to
the quilt. Trim away excess backing and batting in the corners
only to eliminate bulk.
Fold the binding to the back of the quilt, enclosing the
extra batting and backing. Blind stitch the binding fold to
the backing, just covering the previous line of stitching.