CFI SYSTEM.

Now we will see: Electronic Injection CFI - FIC Blink Code

The ECU memory of the CFI system has a memory where the
FAULTS IDENTIFIED DURING ENGINE OPERATION. THE VEHICLE DOES NOT HAVE THE
SYSTEM LIGHT ON THE PANEL.

IT IS POSSIBLE TO CHECK THESE STORED FLAWS THROUGH SCANNER AND

ALSO THROUGH THE CODE OF WINKS, MAKING A JUMP AND INTRODUCING
A TEST LAMP. THERE ARE 3 MEMORIES OF THIS SYSTEM. ALWAYS NOTE THE
CODES OBTAINED, FOR AT THE END OF THE TEST THE MEMORY IS AUTOMATICALLY
OFF.

THE MEMORIES 1. KOEO STATIC TEST PERFORMED WITH THE ENGINE OFF
IDENTIFY FAILURES PRESENT IN THE SYSTEM DURING THE TEST

THE MEMORIES 2. STATIC TEST KAM PERFORMED WITH THE ENGINE OFF
IDENTIFY PAST AND STORED FAILURES IN THE SYSTEM

THE MEMORIES 3. KOER DYNAMIC TEST

EXECUTED WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING AND HEATED IDENTIFIES FAULTS
PRESENT IN THE SYSTEM DURING THE TEST

THE JAMP – STATIC TEST FOLLOW THE PROCEDURE TURN ON THE IGNITION
CONNECT A TEST LAMP TO TERMINAL 17 AND TO THE POSITIVE POLE OF
BATTERY CONNECT THE LINK (JAMP) BETWEEN TERMINALS 48 AND 46

MEMORY KOEO AFTER THE JAMP, THERE WILL BE A ISOLATED FLICKER OF THE LAMP
THE CODES OF TICKS WILL BE PRESENTED IN TEN-HOUR ORDER
INCREASING CODES ARE REPEATED ONCE

MEMORY KAM AFTER ABOUT 9 SECONDS, THERE WILL BE ANOTHER ISOLATED BLINK
THE CODES OF PISCOLAS WILL BE PRESENTED IN A TENTH FORM IN ORDER
INCREASING CODES ARE REPEATED ONCE A STATIC TEST IS COMPLETED

THE JAMP - DYNAMIC TEST FOLLOW THE PROCEDURE WARM UP THE ENGINE
CONNECT A TEST LAMP TO TERMINAL 17 AND TO THE POSITIVE POLE OF
CONNECT THE BATTERY (JAMP) BETWEEN TERMINALS 48 AND 46
 16MEMORY KOER AFTER THE JAMP, THERE WILL BE A ISOLATED FLASH OF THE LIGHT
THE SLOW MARCH WILL OSCILLATE BETWEEN 30 TO 40 SECONDS AFTER A SINGLE BLINK,
ACCELERATE THE ENGINE AND RELEASE THE ACCELERATOR THE BLINKING CODES WILL BE

PRESENTED IN DEZIMAL FORM IN ASCENDING ORDER THE CODES ARE

REPEATED ONCE

QUESTION WHAT ARE THE SYSTEM CODES?

CHECK IN THE TABLES.

STATIC TEST - KOEO 11 O.K. 15 CFI 19 WITHOUT TENSION 21 WATER TEMP 22 MAP
23TPS 24TEMP AIR 51 53 54 61WATER 63TPS64TEMP AIR85CANISTER87CIRC
BOMBA95 96

How to know if my ignition cable is good?

If it is a cable with resistive terminals, just look at the terminals for the value of the resistance (many
sometimes the terminals present different values or even one of them may not be resistive). If
if one terminal has 4k ohms and the other 2k ohms, when measuring the resistance point-to-point of the spark plug wire
the resistance should be around 6k ohms, varying slightly upwards.

If it is a resistive cable, the following formulas should be used:

Xa k ohms = (Ycm * 6k ohms) / 100cm

Xb in ohms = (Y in cm * 10k ohms) / 100 cm

Where Ycm is the measure, in centimeters, of the cable being tested. Measure cable by cable and perform the
two accounts, you will obtain Xa and Xb, both in k ohms, which indicates that the cable being tested must
present resistance with a value between Xa and Xb. Suppose the cable is 30cm long, then:

Xa k ohms = (30cm * 6k ohms) / 100cm = 1.8k ohms

Xb k ohms = (30cm * 10k ohms) / 100cm = 3.0k ohms

If the value measured by the ohmmeter was 2.4k ohms, then 1.8k ohms <= 2.4k ohms <= 3.0k ohms.
therefore the cable is in good condition.

for the diagnosis of ignition coil failure we can follow the following steps:

Check which cylinder has the ignition failure;

Change the cylinder spark plug and check if the failure has shifted to another cylinder; if this doesn’t happen, it’s a sign that
the failure is not of the spark plug;

With the help of a megohmmeter, check the insulation of the spark plug. Low insulation may be due to
of carbonization, soaking, and cracks in the insulator. In this case, replace the spark plugs;

For conventional spark plugs, check the continuity of the plug using a megohmmeter, plugs without
continuity must be replaced.
For resistive type spark plugs, check the value of the internal resistance of the plug, which can vary.
from 3 to 7.5 kΩ, for some spark plug models the resistance varies from 1 to 2 kΩ. Spark plugs that
those presenting resistance values outside the specified must be replaced

Visual analysis:

The engine of your car won't start.

Learn how to diagnose the possible cause:

In today's article, we will address an inconvenient fact that happens to practically everyone.
car owners not only in Brazil but also around the world, So attention! Whether yours is
new or used car if this has not happened to you yet, be absolutely sure that it will still happen.
It can happen to you too, especially because cars are machines, right? And every machine is susceptible to
failures.

Let's face it, these things usually happen when we need the car the most! This
makes me remember the times when I heard people saying they needed to start the engine
car to take a pregnant woman in labor to the hospital and it did not work, or
that story about the couple who went to the motel and had an unforgettable night there, but when it was time to
leaving the car refused to work even in the motel garage, or even that
the most common story of the worker who tried to start the car early in the morning to go
working and the car ended up leaving him stranded.

It is really a complicated situation, not to mention that it is annoying. And in some cases, knowing
A little bit about how a car engine works can be very helpful, especially if it doesn't...
there is help nearby, or if the cell phone is not working either.

So enough talk. Let's get to what really matters!

Where to start:

I will first try to show as clearly as possible what the main mechanical failures are and
electrical failures that can occur, and possible solutions for the failures.

Starting System, Battery and Timing Belt:

Important notice: Before starting the car like a crazy person until the battery is drained, give
um ” tranquinho “, e empurrar ele na ladeira da rua da sua casa… Verifique se a Correia Dentada
it is not broken! The procedure in some engines can be quite simple, just requiring only
open a plastic cap to check. If you notice that there are pieces of belt inside the
her protective cover, or if it is loose, STOP! do not start it again and do not even think about starting it
jump-start, ask a mechanic for help. Because insisting on starting or jump-starting the car can cause
a huge loss with the right to blow up the engine from the inside.

Broken timing belt.

When the vehicle's engine does not start, it is necessary to evaluate some basic factors.
To proceed with the diagnosis of the problem, the first two points to evaluate are whether the vehicle
has enough fuel in the tank, and if the battery can 'turn' the car's engine with
ease.

If, upon turning the key, the dashboard lights do not turn on or turn on weakly, it is likely that the
the battery may have died. And only its replacement will allow the car to work again.
In some cases, it is enough to give a "jump" with another charged battery, or give a "push".
the car can make the same start working, allowing you to reach a
mechanic.
If the lights turn on in a strong tone, more when turning the key completely the engine does not
make any sound, not even a snap, or not spin, then you probably just have a
electrical problem related to your car's starter motor. In this case, perhaps a small
A "push" can make the car run until you reach a workshop.

Stay alert for the sound of the car's starter motor when turning the key in the ignition. If the sound of the
the starter motor sounds normal, spinning the engine quickly, and the dashboard lights are
in a strong tone so your electrical system responsible for starting is working
Normally, and now you can move on to the next step.

Lubricating oil level and coolant fluid or radiator water level:

Check if the engine has lubricating oil in the sump using the dipstick, and if it does
also coolant or water in the radiator reservoir (if the water has disappeared
try to complete it, but if you notice that when starting the water is expelled again to
Before the engine even started or after filling the water, the car's engine locked up and won't start.
But to start then STOP!, Your car has problems with the cylinder head gasket, and it will be
necessary to take it to the mechanic to have the necessary repairs made.
Also remove the oil filler cap and check for any traces of something.
paste-like substance that is not oil on the solid inside, if there is any trace of
a light brown or whitish substance may be that your car has experienced a
overheating previously and had a burned head gasket which causes mixing
of oil and water and compromises the functioning of the engine, so stop the diagnosis here (it is
It's important not to start or try to get the car running with a blown head gasket.
to avoid greater losses), contact your trusted mechanic as the engine will have
to be open for internal repairs. If everything is 'okay' proceed to the next step.

Timing Belts and Belts:

Open the car hood, and check the condition of the belts, if they are all intact, and if there are none.
traces of rubber dust or pieces of it nearby.

In many cases of engine failure in a car, the timing belt or belt of

the distribution is the main villain. In the case of the timing belt, when it breaks,
The damage can be great because the engine loses synchronization between the upper and lower parts.
(valve command, and crankshaft), which causes internal friction between the valves and the pistons.
In some cases, the impact between the parts is so violent that it ends up bursting the entire assembly, and
The game can turn out to be quite expensive.
In the case of a timing belt failure only, a mechanic with basic knowledge will be able to
make the necessary repairs, as he will have to disassemble the engine to assess the damage. With the
broken timing belt or out of correct timing the engine will not work regardless of the
that you do.

In the case of the breakdown of the auxiliary belt, or external belt, the loss is smaller and you will only need
to cover the cost of the new belt, possibly some of its bearings, and the labor for the work
mechanic. With the auxiliary belt broken, the car may even start working for
a few minutes, but it will soon stop again because the alternator will not be working and the
the battery will not charge, and the ignition system will consume all the remaining charge of the battery until
the engine will die. Besides other problems... the engine may overheat because the water pump
it will not be working, the steering may become very heavy without the assistance of the system
hydraulic steering, and neither will the air conditioning work. Some crazy people even manage to get there.
in a workshop with the car without the auxiliary belt. If the distance is short, it might be worth a try, but
for a long time give up! It won't work.
Ignition system, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor, and coils

If the car has a good battery and the engine is revving fast when turning the key ignition on,
if there is enough fuel, and the belts are in good condition and well tightened,
So the next step is to check if the ignition system is operating normally.

ATTENTION!
If you use a pacemaker, have heart problems, or have devices sensitive to shocks.
electric, and to electromagnetic fields with it; THEN STOP HERE. Never put your
hands in automotive ignition systems as they produce extremely high voltages capable of
to lead a pacemaker carrier to death! The electric shocks that reach the car's spark plugs,
vary from 20,000 volts to 50,000 volts.
To perform a basic test on the car's ignition system, simply unplug a cable from
any of the candles, and hold it with an insulated pliers against high voltage, towards
a point of the car body or any point of the engine block and ask someone to give it
start. Just observe if when starting they come out of the hole of the cable that you are
holding small electric sparks, flashes, or small electric arcs towards
car bodywork, or the block. Usually, the spark is strong enough to be heard.
they are each time they come out of the candle holder.

If you
I did this test on all the spark plug wires and none of them produced electric sparks, maybe
Here lies the problem! If your car has a distributor, remove the cable from its center and do the
same test directing it to a point on the bodywork of the car, and ask someone to start it.
If you only see sparks coming from this cable, it is very likely that the problem is with the cap.
from the distributor, or in the internal rotor connected to it. Just swapping the two is enough for the car to start working again.
normally.
If your car does not have a distributor, or you have not seen any sparks in the test of any of the
spark plug wires, then it will be necessary to check the coil and its connections. If the coil is
with visible cracks, leaking some oily substance from inside it, if it is with
signs of corrosion in your connection or if you notice any broken or poorly fitted wire, you may
It could be that the defect is there. In some cases, only replacing the coil with a new one may
make the engine start working again. In other more complicated cases, the fault may be in the wires
that come from the key's contact inside the car, some bad contact may have broken the connection
of the system's power supply.

It is also important to check the fuse box, as the ignition system is usually
protected by a fuse, if your car has a manual it is worth reading, so that you
find the correct fuse to check. If you do not have a manual, you can check the fuses.
one by one, but remember to take only one at a time and check that it is not broken inside.
And whenever you remove a fuse from a place, make sure to put it back in the same place where
They are colored just for that, so they are not connected in the wrong places. Each
the fuse has its correct place, never forget that, and only replace a fuse with one from
same color or numbering!
Warning: Replacing a fuse of one color or number with another that is different - May
cause fires! Beware!

Fuel pump, carburetor, electronic injection:

A simple tip that applies to cars with electronic fuel injection is to pay attention to the sound of the pump.
elétrica que fica dentro do tanque, em alguns modelos é possível ouvir um zumbido ao ligar a
car key, even before starting the engine, if before the car had the defect you were able to
hear the buzzing, and now that he doesn't get it anymore you can't hear it, so check the
car fuses, or ask your mechanic to check the pump, it may likely have
burned.

In some cases, the reason a motor does not start may be related to
lack of fuel supply due to some system failure, which pumps and doses it
of fuel for the engine. In older cars, the system is managed mechanically.
by a device called a carburetor, which is a system very sensitive to bad fuel, and
dirt in the fuel, and requires frequent periodic maintenance. When removing the
the cap, or air filter hose, it is possible to see the carburetor intake where they are
mixed with oxygen and gasoline, there is a kind of valve that limits the passage of
oxygen/fuel and thus controls the acceleration of the engine. This valve is called
Butterfly.

In cars with electronic fuel injection, the throttle also exists! The difference is that the injection of
fuel is managed by a computer, and dosed through one or more fuel injectors.
periodic maintenance is done at larger intervals, and this system is more reliable and resilient.
A basic test to diagnose the functioning of the two systems is to try to inject
small amounts of lubricating spray, or a little bit of fuel on the butterfly
of the accelerator, while someone starts the car. If injecting the spray or fuel into the
butterfly, the car engine threatening to start, or starting and dying right after, you can be sure
because the defect may be around there.

Warning: Throwing fuel or spray on the car engine's butterfly can cause fires.
explosions and burns! If you don't want to end up with a horrible scar or have your car
burned, so stop here!
In some cases, the engine may be flooded with excess fuel, one way to do so
to relieve a car engine is to step hard on the accelerator to the limit and start it for 10
seconds, with pauses of more than 10 seconds each.

Possible problems in the power supply system:

•Clogged or too dirty fuel filter – restricted.
•Defective or weak fuel pump, (in cars with electronic injection it is electric and
it is located inside the fuel tank). In cars with carburetors, it is mechanical and is located
coupled to the engine block.
•Stuck, oxidized, corroded, clogged carburetor.
•If the car has an alarm or anti-theft kill switch, it is necessary to check it as well.
It may have some defect or poor connection preventing the engine from working.
•Once again check the fuses, and if you find any burnt ones, replace them with the same kind.
color, or even number.
Problems with fuel recognition of the flex system, or incorrect AF ratio:

In flex cars, it is the most common occurrence, the failure in recognizing the fuel after
to supply a fuel different from what was in the car's tank.

For example: A woman lives next to a gas station (about 1 km), and she
Usually, you always fill your flex car with 100% alcohol every day, plus one more.
On a beautiful day, she decides to fill the car with 100% gasoline when she was already at the gas station that exists.

next to her house, so this is what she does! And soon after, she went straight home to rest and
he walked only 1km which is the distance from his house to the gas station, a distance that was not
enough to burn the remaining old fuel (alcohol) in the system's piping
car. So the electronic injection interpreted that last time she refueled, as if
would have been with alcohol, and hindered the adaptation strategy.

The next day when the woman tried to start her car, it didn't start like it used to.
Every day when she refueled only with alcohol, but why?

Simple! Because the car's computer did not recognize the fuel she filled it with
previous night, then the computer 'believes' that all the fuel present in the tank is
alcohol, but in fact it is gasoline. And since the injection ratio of the two fuels is very
the engine simply won't start due to a wrong air/fuel mixture.

In some cars, just performing the procedure to relieve pressure is enough for it to start:

Press the accelerator pedal all the way down, then start it! And listen to the engine
scan again. In other cases, it is necessary to force an adaptation using a scanner.
specific automotive.

It is worth remembering that the loss of data about the fuel contained in the tank also affects the battery.
download, or if it is removed. By default, whenever the battery is removed, the fuel
in the computer's memory is reset to gasoline. ALWAYS!

Rotation sensors, Pms, inductive and Hall effect

All cars with electronic ignition and electronic fuel injection have a sensor that serves to
calculate the correct time for the 'spark' of the candles, and the fuel injection,
for the engine to function. This sensor may be located inside the distributor,
next to the motor pulley, or somewhere on the block. This will depend on the make and model
from your car.

In the event of a failure of this sensor, the engine will not start or will operate in
intermittent way, that is, sometimes it will work, other times it won't work.
It is difficult to diagnose a defect in a rotation sensor at home, as to prove it would be
the use of an oscilloscope is necessary, which is generally expensive and requires knowledge
Technician to be operated on. That is, perhaps this problem can only be diagnosed by a mechanic with
clarity and resolve once and for all.

Another simple test to be done is to remove a spark plug cable and observe if, when giving it a
sparks come out from the cable. if the sparks are indeed absent at the moment of starting,
and you have already changed the coil, distributor cap, and rotor, the problem may probably be
be this sensor.

It is logical that some defects can be seen with the naked eye, if you notice that there are wires.
cut, blown out, or melted by the heat of the engine, this is probably the problem.

However, remember that to spend the least amount of money possible to solve this problem, the
the best alternative is to ask for help from a good mechanic.

Encoded key, and immobilizers

In cars with electronic fuel injection, there is a system that protects the vehicle against potential theft.
which is basically a chip with a unique code stored inside the key, and this code is
transferred and checked by the car's computer every time the engine is started, if for some reason
If the code is not received, is incorrect or corrupted, the car will also not start.
in operation!

Encoded keys are sensitive to falls on the ground, strong electromagnetic fields, and
static electricity discharges of energy. There are even manufacturers that do not recommend leaving the
key on home appliances such as TV, refrigerator, among others.

Electric panels, faulty control modules, flooding problems...

Last but not least, we have the control modules, which are present in
cars with carburetors and cars with electronic injection, they are used to manage the system of
ignition advance, and the operation of the engine. In case of failure in any of these components
the car's engine will also start running, and perhaps these problems are the most
complicated to resolve because there is a great technical knowledge of the mechanic, and if he
If it's not good, you're probably not going to be able to start your car.

In cases where the car doesn't start after going through a heavy flood, it may be necessary to
disassemble its electrical and electronic parts so that cleaning and repairs can be made to everything
system, otherwise the vehicle will no longer function.

Immobilizer: how it works and its flaws.

In the past, stealing a car was just a matter of breaking a lock, peeling, and
combine some colored wires and like a magic trick, the motor started working.

In Brazil around the year 2000, cars were already being manufactured with an accessory that
the number of vehicle thefts without the use of a key has drastically decreased: The Immobilizer
Automotive, also known as immobilizer or anti-theft.

The immobilizer currently consists of:

Encoded key: The chip can be seen through the cut made in it.

1: Encoded keywith a mechanical key and transponder (the transponder contains the stored
secret code that makes the car work, this is the famous "Chip".
The immobilizer antenna is shaped like an 'o' as it surrounds the ignition cylinder.

2: Immobilizer antenna, which may or may not be coupled to a plate with the central circuit of
command. In some cases, the board is in a little box hidden under the panel far away.
from the antenna.

Immobilizer control center. (known by some as a small box).

3: Immobilizer command center: Controls the reception of the secret code from thekey, and a
recording new keys, in addition to sending a signal to the car's computer (ECU - ECM)
to allow the departure.
Indicator light for immobilizer failures. It should turn off when starting the engine; if it does not happen.
you probably have a system flaw.

There is also a light on the car dashboard shaped like a key, padlock, or with
the words CODE or LOCK that allow for quick system diagnostics
of the immobilizer. It lights up when turning the ignition key, and after starting it should turn off. If it
keep flashing repeatedly, or intermittently when trying to start, and the engine of
the car not starting is very likely that there is a failure in the transponder of
key, or in any other part of the immobilizer system.
The operating sequence is as follows:
When opening the car and inserting the key into the ignition, the antenna is quickly electrified by a
pulse sent by the immobilizer control center, which causes the transponder (chip) of the
key is powered, thus sending the secret code to the immobilizer antenna, the code is
interpreted, and if it is correct, then a signal is sent to the ECU, which in turn releases the pulse
two fuel injectors, and electrical supply of the electronic injection system, allowing that the
motor starts running.

If the code stored in the key is not the correct code expected by the system,
after three attempts the system becomes temporarily locked and does not allow the game to start anymore.

But as not everything is perfect...

Like every anti-theft system, over the years it becomes outdated, and the thieves and
The lookout cats are learning to master and circumvent the system to steal cars. So
all forms of protection become valid to complement the immobilizer and prevent the car
be stolen.

Even with immobilizer systems, cars nowadays are frequently stolen, where the
a thug simply rips off the car's ECU and inserts a modified ECU that doesn't require
from the encoded key to start it and take the car away in a few minutes.

You can enhance your car's security with:

A good car alarm that is well installed, try to purchase an alarm from a brand
well-known, and look for an installer who is known for doing a good installation, and you with
it will certainly make your car more difficult to be stolen.

Install a vehicle tracker. Because in the worst case, if the car is still stolen, you...
you will still be able to track him down with the help of the police and recover him without major headaches.

Get insurance! For many, insurance may not be the cheapest or most accessible option, but
After living in Brazil, I think one of the best options is to hire this service.

Besides all this...

Electronic systems are prone to failures over time, especially when

we talk about cars, especially because they are directly exposed to the action of time, heat, solar radiation,
rains, infiltrations, floods, and natural wear. That's where the problem lies.

A faulty immobilizer system can cause a big headache, especially because the parts
They are expensive, and there are few professionals with the necessary knowledge to uncover defects.
in this new technology, considered too complicated by older professionals in the field
automotive.

Main defects:

Transponder failure: which can be intermittent, and sometimes caused by sudden drops.
from the car key on the ground, or in other cases caused by electromagnetic interference
provoked for example by the user's obsession or simply lack of knowledge about the car,
to place the keys on the refrigerator or another appliance every day upon arriving home.

Failure in the car immobilizer antenna: This can be caused by the action of the sun's heat.
large city centers, which over time tend to make the properties conduits of
different antennas, altering the electrical resistance, and leaving a hairy intermittent defect,
what causes the car to work sometimes and not work at other times.

Failure in electronic circuits, car wiring, or interference caused by poorly fitted accessories.
installed or of poor quality: Alarms, sound, or poorly installed xenon kits can cause
difficult to detect faults in the immobilizer, rendering the car inoperative
unpredictable and flawed.

It is worth remembering that battery failures and water leaks also damage the system.

In vehicles where it is no longer possible to pair new keys, or the immobilizer system does not
it works more like it should, it is possible to deactivate the immobilizer and make the car work
without the need for a programmed key! This procedure is called DECODE.

Automotive Immobilizer Repair, Reset and Decode, how to do it:

In the automotive repair sector, it is common to encounter problems related to immobilizers.
the coded keys, and many even without solution or very expensive, as they require the replacement of kits
integers, centers, command units, keys, and even speedometers and/or panels. What many
Sometimes it's not an option, for many older vehicles already, for example, it's no longer possible.
to find such new parts, and sometimes, not even used ones in good condition.

For most electronic injection systems, there are ways to disable the key.
encoded, and from there it is possible to start the vehicle's engine without the need for
an encoded/programmed key. In many cases, the only way to 'start the vehicle to
"run" again, it is by eliminating the coded key system.
To disable the immobilizer, there are the following ways:

•Using emulator chip;

•With the programming of the electronic injection system;
•With modification of the electronic injection system hardware.
The emulator chips are nothing more than small printed circuit boards that contain
a circuit that 'pretends' to be the coded key and thus allows starting without the need for
an encoded key. They simulate the system, the disadvantage is that they are not very common in
Brazil, and when they meet they are expensive and very specific (only work for certain
car models.

The programming of theElectronic injection centerit is the most common and the most used, isn’t it?
only in Brazil but also all over the world, and it is the most effective solution for vehicle problems
that no longer work with encoded key.
hardware modification to unlock the electronic injection control unit was widely used in
classic cars from the 90s until the year 2000, after that it was no longer possible to use
hardware modification devices to disable the coded key in cars around here. The
things have changed...

In many cars, the immobilizer data is recorded on a small chip.

encapsulation soic8, and just carefully remove the chip from the central board,
put it in an eeprom programmer, and write a correction file over the file
Never forget to back up the original file first in case
something went wrong).

In other cases, the programming must be done directly in the flash memory or in the internal memory of
central processor. To program the processor, there are specific programmers that
they are imported from abroad and sold in Brazil.

What is ReseteDecode?
In the automotive sector, the terms Reset and Decode have the following meanings:
•Reset: It is the act of preparing a Central to be adapted to another vehicle. For example,
if you need to buy a central for your car because yours burned out and you can only find
Used in some junkyard, you must reset it for it to work in your car. In a few
the central word is "married" to its original car. In order for it to work in a different car
She must go through this reset procedure.
•It is the act of disabling the immobilizer and/or coded keys using programming.
•For both, the procedure is similar, and I will explain it better below.
How to reset the code of a module?
It is impossible to teach here how to reset or decode all the modules/centrals that exist.
especially because each module has a different procedure.
However, in today's article I will teach how to do in a few hundred models of centers.
automotive!

Note: I want to remind you that this article is intended for technicians or car enthusiasts. If you are
just a curious person and has no knowledge of electronics or soldering electronics, do not do it
Yes. You can disable your car's central system.
To reset/decode a unit you will need the following tools:
•Soldering station with air;
•Solder Flux / Solder Paste / Desoldering Braid;
•A pair of tweezers;
•An EEPROM programmer TL-866 socket 40 pins;
•In some cases, it is necessary to have a K-line programmer such as ST10 or Ktag;
•An adapter for SOIC8 EEPROM programmer to DIP8;
•A computer with Windows XP or higher;
•The software and files available here in the article.

I will cite three practical examples of how to remove the immobilizer in three different models of
cars, from different brands!
The First is Fiat Uno/Palio/Strada with Marelli IAW 4AFB system:

The first step is to carefully disassemble the injection module, as it is usually glued.
with a type of industrial "gum", a glue that prevents water or dust from entering
to access the inside of the control unit, it is necessary to carefully pull the board out with the help of a
plastic spatula or something that does not damage the electronic components inside the module.

Pin 1 of the SOIC can be identified by the small recessed hole on its face.
I recommend that you take a photo of the component that will be removed from the board to remember.
from the position he was in before removing it. The SOIC has a position to be soldered, and the
the reference is pin 1 which is marked by a dot on the face of the component.

O segundo passo será preparar o circuito para dessolda do componente soic 8 onde estão
the information about the vehicle and the immobilizer is stored. it is necessary to isolate with tape
bond the other parts and components of the board to prevent solder splashes from falling on it
components that will not be handled.
Location of the immobilizer SOIC in Fiat 4AF systems.
After preparing the board for the desoldering of the SOIC, it is necessary to slightly moisten the legs of the SOIC.

with a little flux and solder paste using an anti-static brush, then
To do this, simply heat the soldering iron to a temperature of approximately 230 degrees °C.
then fill the legs of the integrated circuit with melted solder, heating both sides
equally. Once the solder is shining, just remove the soic 8 with the help of tweezers.
common or with a vacuum tweezers.

The third step is to clean the excess solder that remains on the legs of the SOIC with the mesh.
desoldering tool, heating the SOIC terminals and placing the desoldering mesh in contact with
they are to make the mesh 'pull' the solder, thus keeping the terminals clean for placing the circuit
integrated into the EEPROM programmer, making sure to place the component in the correct position
sure, respecting pin number 1, which is identified by a small "dot" on the face of
component.
If everything went well until then, now just place the SOIC in the clip or adapter of the programmer.
eeprom, connect it to the computer, open its interface and select from the list of components the
Brand ST, then the model SOIC8 model/series 95160, as written on the face of the
component.
Then, read and back up the original soic 8 file using the 'R' Readda options.
programmer interface, then click on File and then Save and select a folder
to save the backup of the original file. Rename the file in such a way that
get it to distinguish it from the others you will generate, for example: Original file IAW [Link]

The "R" button reads the soic. And the "P" button programs the data in the soic (overwrites).
The next step is to repair the file to be written again in the SOIC, just open the AETOOL.
in the option select Brand choose 'FIAT', in the option Select ECU Type choose MAGNET MARELLI
According to [Link], click the Open button and select the file you extracted from the SOIC, then
click on REPAIR, and finally click SAVE to save the repaired/unlocked file.
You can use the binary and hexadecimal file comparison program to verify that
the file has been repaired successfully.

To make it easier, save it as IAW 4AFB [Link]. To insert it into the SOIC, open the
programmer interface and click on FILE and then OPEN, choose the repaired file and give
OK for the option that appears in the window. After the file is loaded, check if it is selected.
the correct component is ST 95160 SOIC8, if everything is okay then just click on 'P' to
program!
Wait for the end of the program, if all goes well the successful message will appear.
It's time for the programmer, you can close the window, remove the programmer's soic, and prepare for soldering.
on the plate again.
To solder it again on the board, you first need to clean the tracks of the board.
carefully with the soldering iron, a little flux and solder paste with the help of
desoldering braid, just heat the braid and pass it lightly over the traces to remove the
excess tin that remained. Finally, apply a little isopropyl alcohol to remove
dirt residue, place the soic under the board aligned correctly in the same position it was in
previously and put a solder dot on terminal 1 and a solder dot on terminal 4 taking
be careful to align everything meticulously.

Solder the remaining terminals of the component, check with the help of a magnifying glass if there are none.
short circuit between the terminals of the component, perform a final cleaning with isopropyl alcohol and
then you can close the central to test it!

Make sure to remove the car immobilizer box before connecting the central unit.
unlocked in the car again, as the immobilizer box can program the central unit
again, and your work will be lost. The small box is located below the steering column.
in our Fiat Uno, Palio, Strada, Brava, Marea, Fiorino and other Fiats manufactured until 2014.

The Second is VW Gol G4, G5, Cross Fox, Space Fox, Voyage, Saveiro Cross with a system
Bosch ME 7.5.X X = anything.
To remove the immobilizer from VW systems with Bosch ME 7.5.x, the procedure is the same.
for FIAT with Magnet Marelli, the only difference is that you need to select make model
correct the SOIC8 component in the programmer interface, and then open oAETOOLe
select inBRAND the brand VOLKSWAGEN and ECU TYPE select the BOSCH ME system
[Link]. In BOSCH systems, the component to be programmed is usually ST 24040 or
95040.
The rest of the procedure is the same as the previous one.

Note: The socket is located on the back of the board, right in the middle.
Reset/Decoded old IAW 1G7 modules of the Fiat Palio, DELCO from old Chevrolet
Corsa, S-10, Omega and some old CITROENs:
This procedure is a little different, and it applies to central units that have a Motorola processor.
68HC11 or Texas TMS370 and TMS374, and used ST27C512 DIP28 ROM memory.
Chip ST 27C512 used to write the reset file. Also present in the car's control unit with
electronic injection data.
For these systems, it was enough to save a file available in AETOOL (to find it just
select the correct manufacturer and model from the list and then save it in memory
virgin ST27C512, the file forces the processor to reset the immobilizer to the state
unlocked, and allows the vehicle to start without the need for a key
encoded.
Basically, you just need to write the virgin memory with the file and the memory will become a
tool that can be used to unlock other centers will become a 'tool chip'.

•Remove the center of the car.

•Mark the chip position or take a picture so you don't connect it wrong!
•Remove the original chip from the socket
•Place the new chip tool that you recorded
•In the vehicle, remove the code box, and then put the central unit back in place.
•Turn on the ignition for about 2 to 3 minutes.
•Turn off the ignition and remove the central unit again from the vehicle.
•Put the original chip back in the central unit.
•And the central will be unlocked and ready to work without an immobilizer.

This procedure is reversible, and to code keys in the car again, just put in a kit.
box + key working and it will program and marry to the system automatically.
Did you lose the original radio code for your car? The solution is here!

Contrary to what one might imagine, losing the code of the original radio or sound system of
A car factory can be a fairly common and even easy inconvenience to occur.
Many people end up going through a similar situation only after needing to exchange the
car battery, or simply because it is necessary to remove the battery at a workshop to do something
repair on the car, and many times cars bought from dealerships do not come with
manual and not even that small folder with the car's specifications and information about the
equipment. There lies the confusion.

If you don't know the car radio code, you will probably have to resort to the service.
from an authorized dealership, and the joke could turn out to be quite expensive... "I myself know
a person who needs to recover a simple code for the sound system of a Volkswagen
imported spent the not at all abusive amount of 500 reais. That is.. When they can give
a solution that does not involve replacing the entire sound equipment.
Na maioria dos casos você não pode tentar mais do que três vezes, ou o aparelho é
permanently blocked.
But for the joy of those who lost it or simply do not know the original radio code and want
unlock without losing any originality of your car, here I will show some
possible solutions to the problem!

The following code calculators are included in the package (Updated on 31/10/2018):
•Audi – Volkswagen Calculator
•Calculators for VW Alfa, Beta, Famar, Gamma, Premium, RCD, Technisat, Delta
•Calculator for Chrisler
•Bosch Calculator
•BMW Calculator
•Nissan Calculator
•Mercedes Benz Calculator
•Alpine, Kenwood, JVC calculator
•Honda Calculator
•Fiat Visteon Calculator
•Becker Devices Calculator
•Calculator for Blaupunkt Devices
•Calculator for Visteon Ford devices
•CalcGen Calculator (Serves various manufacturers)
•CRUCC2 Calculator (Also serves multiple manufacturers)
•Calculator for Clarion devices
•Daewoo Calculator
•Calculator for FORD series V devices
•Calculator for FORD, M, A, C, and L series devices.
•Grunding Calculator
•Hyundai calculator
•Calculator for Mercedes Benz Alpine
•Calculator for Philips devices
•Calculator for Volvo
Second Solution (Advanced):

In many modern devices, it is still not possible to unlock using calculators.

code based on the device's serial number, so if you are an enthusiast or understand
In electronics, you can use software that recovers the code from memory.
EEPROM electronics that exist inside the radio! You just need to have a programmer.
EEPROM and technical knowledge to remove the radio memory and insert it into the programmer, read the
data contained in the memory and then insert it into the recovery software to obtain the code
correct!

In order to access the data of an EEPROM memory, you need a

memory programmer, there are many on the market. however, the upa programmer is the most
recommended for such service due to its simplicity and low cost.

UPA Programmer Plate

With the programmer up in hand, you just need to desolder the EEPROM memory from the board and insert it.
la em seu adaptador para ler memórias, ou fazer a ligação dos fios do programador no circuito
without needing to remove any chip!

DPF EGR Lambda Sensor How to Disable

Injection light on.

With the advancement of technology used in automobiles manufactured today, it has been possible to optimize
the fuel consumption, and also reduce the emission of hydrocarbons.

But with all this embedded technology, difficult technical problems have also arisen.
resolved, at least in a cost-effective manner. Failures in emissions control systems of
diesel vehicles, light, passenger or heavy require specialized labor, parts
originals and all of this can be quite expensive.

When a vehicle exhibits a fault in the DPF, EGR, LAMBDA SENSOR, or ARLA 32 system/
ADBLUE, warning lights turn on the dashboard, information about failures in the emissions systems
are reported in onboard computers, and with all this, the most inconvenient thing happens:

DPF light on the dashboard.

•Malfunction or electronic injection anomaly light is constantly on;
•The engine power of the vehicle or truck is reduced by up to 40%;
•The engine rotation may be limited to 2,000 or 3,000 RPM.
 ARLA 32 light on.
In some cases, replacing a truck's catalyst or the replacement of the DPF filter / repair in the
The ARLA 32 download system can cost the small amount of 24,000 reais at a dealership.
specialized.

And there is still that old problem that haunts vehicles over 10 years old.
manufacturing

•Lack of replacement parts in the market,

•Multiple failures in electronic systems that make vehicle repair unfeasible because
they represent 50% of the total cost of it.

However, there is still an inexpensive solution for issues related to damage in the Filter of
DPF Particles, Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve EGR, and Lambda Probe post
Catalyst, and ADBLUE or ARLA32:

Reprogramming of the engine control unit of diesel vehicles.

Reprogramming the injection module can be an accessible solution to solve problems.
of the operation of the emission control systems mentioned above.

In general, reprogramming can be done with the help of programming equipment.

specifics like K-Tag or KessV2. But just having the equipment is not enough, and
It is also necessary to have previously repaired files to record in the injection modules of
vehicle / truck.
 Reprogramming equipment.
The repaired files can be prepared by an engineer or you can use a
software tool for editing and repairs / deactivation of DPF, LAMBDA, ARLA systems
ADBLUE, EGR.

I will provide below a suite of applications and files to remove DPF, EGR, Sensor.
Lambda 2, Arla32, Adblue, and EGR.

Automotive Central Repair Without Secrets!

In today's article, I will talk a little about the repair of electronic modules that equip cars.
trucks, motorcycles and other vehicles existing since 1994. Therefore, sit in a place
comfortable take the coffee or a juice and get ready, because the reading will be interesting and extensive
The automakers have been heavily investing in the implementation of first-world technology in
your vehicles, and this will always be a strong trend, because who doesn't like comfort and
the facilities that embedded electronics provide, isn't it true?
With the arrival of so much technology, problems have been solved, and cars have become very
more reliable and packed with features that previously did not exist. A great example of an advantage is
the electronic injection and the electronic engine management systems for Otto cycle and diesel engines, which
provides great fuel savings combined with excellent strength utilization of the
motor.
However, with so much good also came some details...

What made the automotive repair market have to update and learn to
repairing cars has stopped being
simply just tighten screws and make mechanical adjustments. To give you an idea, there are still in
Brazil, many independent repairers still have difficulty solving problems in
modern vehicles, and end up going through great frustration, in addition to leaving the customer frustrated.
Unfortunately in Brazil, knowledge, tools, and quality parts are still not 100%
within reach of those who want to work. A reality very different from other countries where it is more
accessible and cheap to learn to work with automotive technology.
Enough with the delays, let's get straight to the point!

Control modules and electronic equipment that equip vehicles typically feature
problems, and some in addition to being expensive, are not found in the replacement market, which makes
the repair of such modules is viable. A modern vehicle manufactured today can have several
control modules in your bodywork, they are:

•Electronic Injection Module UCE or simply known as "Central";

•Transmission Control Module TCM or the Central of the Automatic Transmission;
•Body Control Module BCM Bsi BC or Central Multi-Function that controls:
faróis, luzes de cortesia, setas, limpador de para brisas, alarme, chave anti furto codificada, vidros
electric with anti-crushing, electric locks, lights, defoggers, and air conditioning;
•Cooling Control Module: as the name suggests, it controls the operation of
radiator fans to cool the engine;
•Air Conditioner Control Module: controls the air conditioning, both hot and cold;
•Comfort Module: controls alarm, locks, electric locks, electric windows, sunroof
regulations for electric seats, electric mirrors, seat heating functions, among others
other functions, depending on the vehicle model and its options;
•ABS Brake Control Module: this controls the operation of the ABS brakes, in addition to
also control traction and stability control functions, when available;
•Airbag Control Module: its function is to control the deployment of the bags.
Airbags, at the right moment to reduce damage to passengers in case of accidents. This
the module also performs constant diagnostics of its sensors and actuators, and alerts the driver
through warning light on the panel for possible malfunction of the Airbag system;
•The speedometers of modern cars are also considered modules.

These are just some of the modules found in modern vehicles, there are
manufacturers that usually produce a separate module for each function of the car, making the
more reliable systems, however, more complex.

All these modules have a logical unit for processing data (processor),
RAM and ROM memory, and they are all interconnected through theCAN network Thus, everyone is
managed by the car's main control unit and it can make decisions to improve
the operation of the vehicle, or perform real-time diagnostics, using the strategy of
data crossing.
The main frequent defects in centers and modules:

They are related to the malfunction of the engine and transmission, in some cases they can cause
so that the vehicle no longer functions or its performance is compromised. In
In the vast majority of cases, problems in centers are caused by external agents such as,
example, flood water, seawater, or even carelessness in the installation of a
new battery (battery polarity reversal, short circuit, or malfunction of
alternator). In other cases, module problems are caused by wear of the wiring of
car, what causes short circuit, or due to natural wear of actuators, which work in a
unspecified regime and end up damaging the modules as well.
For example: A ignition coil with high-voltage current leakage to the harness of
module or short circuit can cause the burning of the electronic injection module, and with
that, the vehicle may cease to function. Another example is the malfunction of the actuator
slow march, if this is stuck or shorted it can also cause damage to the system.

Failures caused by water infiltrations in the bodywork and immersion of the vehicle in floods
they are also a very common cause of failure in automotive electronic systems, and this is due to
your turn, it is one of the most catastrophic, as in some cases it can mean total loss of the vehicle
even imported luxury vehicles can have total loss depending on the amount of
damaged modules). In terms of repairability, a completely oxidized module,
also something very difficult to repair successfully, as with the number of components and
micro sensitive trails, the corrosion is very high and in many cases, the module does not
returns to normal operation.

Failures caused by... water?!

•Washing sensitive parts of the vehicle or the cabin can cause damage;
•Water infiltrations in window rubbers, gutters, that little rubber of the windshield;
•Floods, unfortunately our beloved cars are not waterproof, and may suffer
failures when falling into rivers, lakes, and floods;

Failures caused by lightning and natural electrical discharges are less common but do not stop
being a known cause of failure in embedded electronics systems in vehicles,
especially when the vehicle is struck by lightning, whether in operation or stationary,
parked.

•If your car was near the area where a lightning strike occurred, and after that it no longer worked, then
you may have been awarded... Not that the prize is good, but that's it, maybe the modules
they burned.
•When welding the car body, remove the electronic modules to prevent burning.

Failure caused by premature wear of the internal components of the module, has its slice of
cause of failures that leave the repairman confused, not knowing exactly how to proceed to carry out
the vehicle repair. A car manufacturer in Brazil a few years ago (around 2008, 2010) faced
recurring problems in several models that shared similar electronic systems, the
failures were cataloged and the affected vehicles underwent a silent recall. Even so, still
There are units running that have not yet presented problems, and sooner or later they will fail.
and leave their owners in the lurch without warning.

•I won't speak on behalf of a manufacturer to avoid causing confusion with anyone, but this is a
reality, it is necessary to admit! In my daily life, I see a lot of this in vehicles that are brand new.
released and debut some technology. The first units always come with some
hidden bicheirinha.

Failures caused by natural wear of the car's electrical installations and external components
to the electronic modules, they are also quite common and basically the most frequent failures
are related to stripped wires, poor grounding, alternator defect, regulator system
battery charge.

•This is undoubtedly a villain that causes fear, because if not successfully diagnosed it can
burn modules again or damage them over time.
•Normally, vehicles with very deteriorated electrical systems require special attention.
To solve the problem, the most suitable solution is to make a new harness.
Failures in the immobilizer system (Encoded Key):

In general, immobilizer system failures occur with older vehicles and

they can also render the engine inoperative. In many cases, it is possible to generate a new key or
replace some component of the system and the system works normally again.

But there are cases where nothing seems to solve the problem, so a solution that works
for many vehicles (new and old), it basically consists of disabling the coded key, and
the vehicle can operate without the need for a chip in the key. This method is known outside of
Brazil as 'immo off', or basically disabling the immobilizer.

Components of the electronic injection module - and engine control

In general, modern car central units have the following internal configuration:

[Link]-Drivers: (Multi-function transistors that control various actuators). This one in the image
controls fuel injectors, canister purge valve, cold start solenoid, injection relays
the idle actuator;
2. Main Processor: (Of the MCU type with integrated ROM and RAM) programmable via K line;
3. This 5-volt voltage regulator: powers all the circuits of the module and the external sensors.
that use 5 volts;
4. Mosfet Transistors;
5. Drivers for Ignition Coil Control: control the spark of the coils;
6. Electrolytic Capacitor: Filters the supply voltage for the 5-volt regulator;
7. Oscillator Crystal;
8. Rectifier Diodes;
9. EEPROM Memory: which contains immobilizer data and chassis number, configuration
accessories;
10. " * " Communication circuit with the CAN network;
Defects:

Electronic injection modules can fail due to various reasons;

•Intervention by unqualified individuals or technicians;

•Logical programming failure or corrupted memory;
•Failures caused by water infiltrations in the body or by floods;
•Failures caused by lightning (cases are rare);
•Failure caused by premature wear of components (manufacturing defect);
•Failures caused by natural wear of the car's electrical installations, external components
to the module;

Intervention by an unqualified person or technician/mechanical repairer is the most common cause.

for failures in embedded electronic systems. Unfortunately, in the country where we live, it is still
difficult to acquire technical knowledge about new technologies embedded in cars, and
Many repairers end up learning to work the hard way, and there are failures due to lack of knowledge.
they become common, however, unintentional. The simple installation of an accessory in the vehicle
like an alarm or anti-theft device, cuts off power or sound equipment if not done correctly
it can affect the car's electronic systems, causing adverse effects and unwanted failures.
Many times the owners themselves want to venture to work on their own car and end up
by accident causing failures of this type.

Examples of failures caused by humans, (laughs):

•Incorrect installation of: accessory, xenon lights, sound, electric windows, and DVD amplifiers;
•Installation of: candles, coils, low quality or unspecified ignition cables;
•Battery polarity inversion or polarity inversion when jump-starting the battery;
•Inversion of wires of sensors or actuators of electronic injection;
•Installation of adapted parts not specified for the vehicle;
•Electrical gambiarras in general: distrust everything or suffer the consequences later;
Programming failures and corrupted memory are very common in modules that work
with MCU (a type of processor that has integrated ROM, RAM, and EEPROM)
on a single chip). And they can be easily corrected, with the help of a copy of the files from
a module in good condition and a compatible programmer for rewriting the data on the chip.

Does your car battery often discharge? Discover the reason:

If your car's battery keeps letting you down and you're looking to solve the problem of
once and for all, you came to the right place! Today I will share some simple tips on how
diagnose possible current leaks in automotive electrical systems in a simple and
objective.
Stay Tuned!

Something is draining the car battery. Battery is discharging.

If your car started having issues with quickly discharging the battery after a repair or
installation of some accessory such as alarm, tracker, multimedia center, DVD, CD player, or
any other thing then probably the problem is around there...

But if this started out of nowhere, and you don't know where to start the tests, don't panic! Follow
Pay close attention to the tips, and there won't be any mistakes.

Stand By - the villain

In cars, there are hundreds of electrical accessories that even when the key is off and
the car is not in use, it stays there consuming energy discreetly. The big problem
it is when one of these devices suffers damage to its electrical circuits over time, either due to
natural wear of its internal components, poor installation, or water leaks and the like.

When an accessory has its standby regulator circuit damaged, it can consume a
voltage much higher than normal and suddenly the car battery starts to discharge
a matter of minutes stopped.
The automotive accessories that most face this type of problem are:
•First place: Sound amplifier modules / Bass capacitors
•Second place: Alarms, and remote locking systems / GPS trackers
•Third place: Audio players – Mp3 players – DVD / CD player – Multimedia centers
•Fourth place: Original accessories from the car itself, such as courtesy lights, relays that
They control the door lights, trunk lights among others.
Enough talk - Let's get to the practical tests

To reach a concrete conclusion about where the root of the problem lies, you will need to
some tools:

You will need a digital or analog multimeter with an ammeter of at least 1.

ampere.

Digital multimeter with 10 ampere ammeter.

You will also need some keys to loosen the terminals of your battery.
car, it will be necessary to check the size of the screws for the terminals of your car's battery,
they can be 10, 13, 11 or 12 mm.

The Test:
 Measure energy consumption in amperes or milliamperes in the car battery.
Before performing any battery discharge test on your car, make sure to turn off
all electrical consumers of the vehicle, such as headlights, courtesy lights, sound system clock,
everything you encounter ahead, and if possible, also leave the alarm in ON mode
Indeed, you did not misunderstand, you will try to do the consumption test with the alarm on.
Power on just to get an idea of how the alarm's standby consumption is.

First step: Disconnect the positive terminal of the car battery, and on the battery terminal place the
the red probe of the multimeter that should be connected to the V / ma port at its end
multimeter.

Second step: Connect the black cable of the multimeter to the COM port of the device, and the probe.
you must connect to the terminal that you disconnected from the battery.
Third step: Set the multimeter to the 200mA scale, which means two hundred milliamps, and
observe its load consumption variation with everything turned off. The energy consumption
it should normally not exceed 150 milliamperes! If you find a consumption more than
150, or if the multimeter display shows only the digit 1, you have a higher consumption of
that 200 milliamperes and you should change the multimeter scale to 10A or ten amperes, and in
Next, switch the red cable from the V port of the multimeter to the 10A / DC port as well.

Soon! If the power consumption is greater than 200 milliamperes, the battery, you can already
consider that there is a current leak, and now you should remove the fuse one by one and
observe the results on the multimeter screen, if after removing any fuse the consumption of
just check which component the fuse protects, and you'll probably find
find the accessory that is 'draining your car's battery'.
Make sure to always put the fuse you removed back in the place where it was. That's why
always check one by one, and preferably ask for someone's help so that they can observe the
multimeter screen for you!

Practical example of current leakage in cars: Glove compartment light stays on permanently due to a fault in
switch
Another detail: If even after removing all possible fuses the energy consumption does not
to download, then you will need to take more drastic measures and you will have to disconnect the connector of the
alarm, after the sound, from the amplifier module if it exists, and so on. Check with
be careful also if all the doors are closed, and the trunk as well, to avoid that
some courtesy light is on!

Car engine overheating? Don't know what to do anymore?

If your car's engine is overheating and you don't know what to do anymore, don't panic!
In today's article, I will leave some tips on how to diagnose failures and defects.
in the automotive cooling system of most national and imported vehicles!

See tips to solve your car's engine overheating!

As many already know, modern cars today are equipped with a system of
cooling that uses a mixture of additives and demineralized water to cool the engine, and
all of its auxiliary parts.

In general, the composition of this system is as follows:

As shown in the illustration above, the main components of the cooling system are
the following:

•Radiator - Its function is basically to exchange heat with the air coming from the front.
car through the grille that exists below the hood, and is located behind the front bumper.
•Electric fan: also known as a blower, is responsible for forcing circulation
air that comes from the front of the vehicle when it is stationary or moving at low speed
and the flow of cold air is not enough for a perfect heat exchange. In vehicles with air
There can be more than one electric fan in the air conditioner, or simply one large one with
two operating speeds, one low and one high.
•Expansion Reservoir Cap: Its function is to maintain the cooling system.
pressurized within the limits established by the manufacturer for proper operation. In
in case of overheating of the cooling system, a safety valve opens inside the
the cap and the system is depressurized automatically to prevent a possible explosion of
a hose or the radiator casing itself which is made of plastic.
•Water Pump: As the name itself suggests, it has the role of pumping the cooling liquid.
through the head and engine block, to cool the internal components of the engine and finally take it to the
radiator to be cooled in a constant cycle while the engine is running
functioning.
•Thermostatic Valve: Its function is to close the passage of the cooling liquid while the
motor is cold, so that a quick and even heating of all parts occurs
motor. Thus avoiding premature wear of the engine's piston sleeves and excess
exhaust gas emissions (the engine consumes more fuel when it is cold, and in
the consequence of this also pollutes more.
•Expansion tank: Allows for accommodating the cooling liquid, both in the cold phase of
engine how much in hot phase. (The coolant has its characteristics altered
expands as the temperature changes.
But what causes the excessive overheating of the car engine, after all?

There are many causes for the car engine to stop being cooled efficiently, but the
the most common are caused by:

Thermostatic valve stuck, with clear signs of oxidation.

Thermostatic valve jammed, rusty, and consequently stuck in position
closed. After the engine heats up, it does not open or opens little and the coolant does not
circulates causing the overheating and the result doesn't even need to be mentioned, right? Joint of
burnt cylinder head, melted pistons, and maybe even a seized engine because when the temperature rises
beyond the normal, the oil film that protects the internal parts of the engine is broken and starts a
unhappy friction that destroys everything inside.
Quick diagnosis: With the engine already hot, (be careful not to burn yourself) feel the
hoses that enter and exit the radiator, by obligation all of them must be in the
the same temperature if one of the hoses is at a lower temperature, it may have
sure that the water is not circulating in there. and the possible culprits are the water pump, or
the thermostat valve is stuck or clogged... and it will be necessary to replace parts, prepare the
bag!
 Water pump with cracked, broken, or worn rotor.
Water pump with its rotor stuck, or with worn-out broken blades, again when
the water pump is not working properly, the coolant is not circulating and the engine overheats a lot!
results are unhappy for the car owner's wallet.
Quick diagnosis: It is the same diagnosis I taught to check for malfunctioning.
thermostatic valve. Attention! The water pump may have leaks, and this is a sign of
that it is no longer cool. If you encounter leaks in the engine near there
belts and front accessories can be sure that your car's water pump is gone!

Electric fan shorted, burned out, with broken blades or simply

stuck, observe the operation of the electric fan or blower when the engine is running
Hot, it should turn on when the temperature reaches approximately 90 degrees, or (if
if your car has) the temperature gauge / indicator on the dashboard reaches about halfway...
and it should turn off after a maximum of 120 seconds with the car stopped and in idle mode
slow march. A sign that the cooling system is not doing well is the fact that the fan
turn on and do not turn off at any time. Also observe possible noises coming from the
fan, if you notice strange noises while it is running, take it to your
take the car to the mechanic because it can break down at any moment!
Quick diagnosis: Before taking any action, the first thing to check when the
the fan is not working with the car engine running hot, it is necessary to check the
car fuses, and if there is any burned out, replace it with a fuse of the same capacity or
Some older vehicles are equipped with a thermal switch (the known
"big onion" ) and in many cases when the fan does not work the blame is on the "big onion" that does not
it's not working anymore. Just replace it with a new switch that works the same way.
temperature range of the original car. To know if the temperature sensor is burned, just do a
connection with a thin wire, or a paper / wire click on its electrical terminals to verify
Connecting directly the electro-fan works. Once this is done, the fan will turn on, then just replace the
big onion that the problem is solved. With the cold engine you can try to spin the blades of the electro-
fan with the tip of a screwdriver, and also check if the fan is not
when blocked, it should turn easily and without making noise. In case of blockages or if the
Even if it is very heavy, it will be necessary to replace it.

Radiator clogged with rust.

Clogged or very dirty radiator: If the radiator has its channels clogged or
very dirty, or wrinkled it also won't do its job properly and in the end,
The car engine will not cool down at all. It's hard to tell if a radiator is good.
Oh no, basically one of the symptoms that the radiator is not doing well is the fact that the engine of the
the car heats up beyond normal when circulating within urban centers and cities,
or when climbing steep hills or slopes. another detail: usually when the radiator doesn't work
Well, the fan does not turn off at any time, or takes a very long time to turn off.
Quick diagnosis: A test to be done that usually reveals the culprit is to look directly.
to the radiator through the gaps and holes that exist in the bumper, if it is noticed that
there are dirt, dry leaves, mud or other things that block the "holes" of the radiator
so you probably found the reason why your car is overheating. It will be necessary
dismantle the radiator and perform a good cleaning to restore its normal functionality.
 Expansion tank lid.
Expansion tank lid with damaged safety valve, stuck, relaxed
or with corroded/broken sealing gasket, This is undoubtedly one of the defects
but more recurrent and easier and cheaper to resolve, yet difficult to diagnose without
appropriate tools. When this little troublemaker has issues, it simply leaves the
cooling system with a crazy behavior, sometimes it works well, sometimes it boils... It can
even to confuse a diagnosis of the radiator fan, because when the cap is on
problems she lets the water expand, and heat conduction becomes difficult and finally the fan
doesn't turn on at all even with the engine very hot.
Quick diagnosis: Check for possible leaks on the lid itself, any drop of water.
that leaks through the lid when it is tightened, and with the engine hot can indicate that the lid
it is no longer in good condition and needs to be replaced! In general, the lid can also be
damaged if the car has a history of overheating for other previous reasons.

Hoses and pipes.

Leaks in hoses, gaskets, clamps, seals, or in any part of the
motor, and seals: They are also the cause of any heating problems! , in systems of
it is worth remembering that there should be no leaks anywhere, as if
if there is any leak, the coolant will fail to conduct heat and the engine will
heat beyond normal! So stay tuned! Radiator water is not topped off every day
Didn't you see? Normally it's every 30 days, or more. If you have noticed that the water in your car is...
So then take it to the mechanic for an evaluation. The car's heating system also
it can fail causing water leaks into the interior of the vehicle, so if you notice
any water infiltration into the car is worth reviewing the system, to prevent a
possible failure.

Engine cylinder head cracked due to excessive heating.

Cracked engine head, warped, and with a burnt gasket...
Finally, we arrive at the most dreadful part of the story, when the engine head has already been affected.
Due to another subsequent problem, the engine will never stop overheating even if you change it.
the entire cooling system! Damaged engine head is the result of insisting on driving
with the car having extreme heating problems, and the cost of the repair can leave anyone
scared driver…

Quick diagnosis:
Usually when there are problems in the cylinder head, the engine may or may not lose its power and
yield, can fail, tremble, shake, and make strange noises, can also start to
release white smoke from the exhaust, the water from the reservoir frequently disappears, and
the engine always heats up beyond normal.
Clear signs that the head gasket is blown: Coffee with milk sludge on the cap
engine oil.
Remove the oil dipstick from the car, and check for signs of a thick substance that
it resembles a folder, the color of coffee with milk that may or may not be accompanied by droplets of water.
Also remove the cap where oil is added to the engine, and any sign of this substance.
strange instead of oil stop your car immediately and take it to the mechanic because the damage
It is already done, and insisting on driving like this could lead to a total loss of your car's engine.

But what is the result of driving the car with the engine overheating?

Oh, you still don't know? If you try, or simply need to do this to get to a
place where there is assistance from a mechanic to fix your car, know that the losses
they will be high because the engine of your car will BURN OUT! So whenever possible, stop and
Call a tow truck because the fun will be cheaper.

CNG AUTONOMY Table

GNV AUTONOMY Table

Gasoline 5 7 10 12 15 18 km/liter
ethanol 3.5 4.5 7 8.5 10,5 12.5
50 65 100 120 140 170 7.5
65 90 130 150 190 230 10
100 130 195 234 290 340 15 Size of
Average autonomy 110 150 220 260 330 390 17 cylinder in
in kilometers 130 190 270 320 410 480 21 m³
160 220 320 390 480 570 25
195 270 390 465 585 690 30
260 360 520 620 780 920 40
It is equivalent to
 GNV 6.5 9 13 15.5 19.5 23.5 km/m³

How to use the table:

1. See on the top line (green) how many kilometers your car does per liter of gasoline.
or ethanol; example: 10km/l of gasoline.
In the yellow column are the sizes of the cylinders, for example: 15m³.
[Link] the corresponding line with the 10km/l column (cyan). The result is 195
kilometers.
Conclusion: a car that does 10km/l of gasoline will travel about 195km with a
15m³ gas cylinder.
3. Compare in the same column, but in the lower row (blue), how much this represents in
kilometers per cubic meter; in the example, 10km/l of gasoline is equivalent to 13km/m³ (and
7km/l of ethanol.