PENGANTAR TEKNIK TEKSTIL
Textile Engineering Difinition Classification of Fibers The Characteristic of Natural and Manmade Fibers Properties of Textile Fibers Yarn Numbering Systems Yarn Formation (Fiber to Yarns) Fabric Formation (Fabric Constractions) Finishing Processes Dyeing (Finishing with Color)
References
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Anonim,1997., Profile of The Textile Industry, Washington,[Link] Corbman,1995.,Textiles Fiber to Fabric,McGraw-Hill,Los Angeles,USA [Link],1990.,Yarn and Cloth Calculations, New York. Textile Research Journal, Princeton,USA Robert R Franck,2005.,Bast and other plant fibers,Woodhed Publishing Limited,England
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Textile Engineering Difinition
Textile Engineering is concerned with specific knowledge of textiles in the designing, improving, and utilizing of systems of people, textile materials, information,equipments, and energy. It draws upon specialized knowledge and skill in the mathematical, physical, and social sciences, together with the principles and methods of engineering analysis and design to specify, predict and evaluate the results to be obtained from such systems.
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Classification of Textile Fibers
Natural Fibers: Vegetable : Cotton, Linen, Jute, Hemp, Sisal/Agave, Kapok, Ramie, Coir, Pina. Animal : Wool, Silk, Hair Mineral : Asbestos Manmade Fiber : Cellulosic namely; Rayon, Acetate and Triacetate NonCellulosic Polymers:Nylon, Aramid, Polyester, Acrylic, Spandex, Polycarbonate, Olefin, Vinyon, Modacrylic, etc
Some physical and chemical characteristics natural fibers
Characteristics Ramie Flax Hemp Cotton
Ultimate fiber length in mm (minimum) Average Maximum
5 120 150 620
1 13 14 130
5 15 25 55
9 20 30 63
Ultimate fiber diameter in microns (minimum) Average Maximum
13 40 60 126
5 17 20 40
78 12 64 86 51 31 - 14
10 15 30 50
12 14 16 20
Tensile strength in kg/mm Moisture regain in % Chemical Composition in % Cellulose Lignin Hemicellulose,pectin and others
95 12 72 97 10 27 -3
83 12 67 68 64 27 - 18
45 8 88 96 0 12 - 4
PROPERTIES OF COTTON FIBERS
Property
Regidity(torsonial) Resistance to bending
Relative Amount
High High
Possible Determinative Fact.
Regid [Link] crystallization Same
Plasticity Extensibility
Low Low
Large intermolecular forces Stretched molecules,high crystallinity
Resiliency Dry tenacity Wet tenacity
Low Fairly high High
High molecular interaction Good molecular and crystallite High degree of polymerization
CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF COTTON FIBERS
Constituents Cellulose Protein Pectic substances
Typical 94.0 1.3 0.9
Low 88.0 1.1 0.7
High 96.0 1.9 1.2
Ash Wax Malic,citric and other
Total sugars/honey due Other
1.2 0.6 0.8
0.3 0.9
0.7 0.4 0.5
0.5 -
1.6 1.0 1.0
1.0
TYPICAL TEXTILE PROCESSING FLOW CHART
Manmade filament fibers
Manmade staple fibers Raw wool, Cotton
Texturizing
Fiber Preparation Yarn Formation Spinning Warping Slashing Weaving Knitting
Fabric Formation
Knitting
Preparation
Dyeing
Printing
Wet Processing
Finishing
Cutting Sewing
Fabrication
Finish goods
Physical and Chemical Properties of Natural and Synthetic Fibers
Physical Properties of Natural Fibers, namely: Fiber length average between 20 mm 38 mm (cotton) Fineness average between 3,5 4.0 micron Tensile strength between 45kg/mm Moisture regain average 8 % Diameter average 12 14 micron
Industrial Processes in Textile Industry
The textile industry includes the production of yarn, fabric and finish good. The following for production stages namely: The textile industry includes the production of yarn, fabric and finish good. The following four production stages namely: 1. Yarn formation 2. Fabric formation 3. Wet processing 4. Fabrication
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Yarn Formation Processes
Manmade
Texturizing
Manmade
Natural fiber
Cleaning
Fabric formation Blending
Carding
Combing
Drawing
Roving
Sinning
Fabric formation 11
Processing Functions
Blowing opening,cleaning,separiting,mixing. Carding individualized for straightening and cleaning,remove contamination like impurities Combing the removal of short fibers and straightened hooked fiber Drawing fiber straightened by drafting and doebling Roving drafting,twisting and winding Spinning drafting, twisting and winding
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Short Fiber Calculator
The short fiber calculator predicts the short fiber content given a bale,upper half mean length, uniformity index,micronaire,and strength The regession equation is as follow: Short fiber cont,%(by weight) = SFC(%w) = C-(13.255xUHML)(0.573xUI)-(1.255xmic)-(0.117xStrength) Where: UHML = fiber upper half mean length in inches UI = Fiber length uniformity index in percent mic = cotton micronaire value Strength = fiber strength in grams/tex and The value of C depend on growth region are;79.007;77.802;79.012; and 77.802.
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Cotton Waste Removal Required
To estimate the amount of removal use the following formula: Waste needed,%= (average%trash in bale)x(%trash to be removed) average%trash in waste PERCENT RUN TIME AND THROUGHPUT RATE To determine the run time, net throughput rate as follow: Machine run time,%= total time machine processes stock x 100% total time of test Net throughput rate = total weight of stock processed total time of observation
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Cleaning Efficiency and waste Removed
For calculating cleaning efficiency are as follows:
Cleaning Eff.= %trash in stock fed-%trash in stock delivered x 100% % trash in stock fed Or Cleaning Eff. = % waste removed x % trash in waste % trash in stock fed
Waste removed = weight of waste removed x 100% weight of stock fed
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Percent Nep and Short Fiber Content Change
To calculation percent Nep use formula:
Nep [Link],%= nep [Link] stocknep [Link] fed stock x 100 % nep content in fed stock
Short Fiber Change (SFC) Determining the amount of change in short fiber content: SFC change,%=(%SFC in delivered stock)-(%SFC in fed stock) x 100% % SFC in fed stock
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Draft Calculation
There are three common ways to calculate the draft at a process.
Draft = Weight per unit length fed ( Actual draft) Weight per unit length delivered
Draft = Length unit weight delivered Length per unit weight fed (Actual draft)
Draft = Surface speed of deliverery rolls (Machine draft) Surface speed of feed rolls
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