Fiber to yarn
Spinning process
of
Polyester fiber
What is count ?
• Count (Ne): No of 840 yards (hank) in one
pound (1lb)
• Denier : weight(grams) of 9000 mts
Selection of fiber – Based on count
• Spinning limit : No of fibers in yarn cross
section should be greater than 100
– No of fiber = Yarn Denier/fiber Denier
• Yarn Denier = 5315/count Ne
• Selection of Cut length is based on Machinery
– Short cradle : 38mm
– Medium cradle: 44 or 51mm
– PC Blends : 32mm
Fiber properties –Based on Application
• Weaving :
– Fiber strength for better yarn strength
• Knitting
– Fiber dyeability for uniform fabric dyeing
– Less yarn Hairiness so normally spinner prefer 38/44mm
Spinning process flow chart
Combed yarn Carded & Poly yarn
Double or
Multi-fold yarn
Mixing
• Keep fiber stock based on lot /creel • Better Mixing
wise is storage avoids most of UV
• Use Min 4 creels/lots equally for
ring / dyeing
better homogenous mixing
problems
• Maximum bales possible in mixing is
better for working
Number of bales per mixing is important
Blow room
• Blow room object is opening of fiber • Nep Generation
• 2 beating points with 550-600 rpm should below 20%
speeds for disc beaters
• For Pin type slightly more speeds are
allowed
Material transfer from BR to carding should be smooth, avoid more bends in
transport line
Carding
Feed plate to Licker-in Neps/gram : Below 2
44mm : 1.0mm (40thou) Fused fibers numbers
38mm -0.75mm (30thou) Fused fibers per 10 gram of flat
strips Below 10
Cylinder to flats
RH% : 55-60%
12,12,10,10 thou or 0.3,0.3,0.25,0,25mm
Sliver U% : 2%
Flat speed : 220 – 260 mm/min
Card breaks below one
break /8hrs
Static at Card should be below +/- 1.0
Drawing
Drawing I Sliver U% - Below 2.5%
BR Sett. : CL + 4-6mm / CL +8-10mm 1mt cv% - below 0.5%
BD :1.71 Acid treatment (H2SO4) or
courser hank like 0.09 keep 5 ends or 6 liquimix coting will reduce top
Drawing II roller lappings
BR Sett. : CL + 4mm / CL+8 mm
BD :1.41
6 & for finer – 8 ends up
Coiler tube size should be more for Polyester process
Simplex
Speed – 900 rpm (For polyester Top roller SH – 83 deg
speeds should be less due to slippage Brakes – 0.5/100 spl hrs
tendency) Quality:
Flyer groves false twister– more than Roving stretch – Below
cotton (10-12) for better twist 0.5-0.7% and between
spindles should be +/-0.5
Stretch is performance parameter for simplex
4 over 4 Drafting is better doer polyester process
Ring frame
Setting for short cradle : 42.5 -44 / 60- Top roller & Aprons SH –
65mm 83 deg
For medium cradle : 54.5/70 -75mm Brakes – below 2 BPHSH
Quality: Thin ZERO
BD -1.14 to 1.2
RH % : 50-55% & 320C
Tm = 3.1-3.3 for 38mm, 2.9-3.0 for 44mm
Total Draft : 35 to 40
& 2.7-2.8 for 51mm
Spacer for 30s – 3.5, 40s 3.0mm,20s
-4.0mm
Traveler speed – below 40m/sec is ideal
Traveler should have grater gap between ring & traveler for poly
Loose spindle tapes may cause tpi variation in yarn
Auto coner
Drum speed – max. 1250-1300 (Lesser Analysis the faults with
than cotton) cut mode
Cuts - max 35-40/100k Monthly once check for
rewinding study
Wax for Knitting and no wax for weaving
Settings
N – 4.5 to 5.0
DS – 2.0
LS – 1.8 to 2.0
DL – 1.25
LL – 30
D-18
LL -25
Splice quality to be taken for polyester