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Preparatory process for weaving

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 Winding- winding is the process of transferring the yarns from the hanks into spools of the

shuttles used in the weft while weaving.

 Pirn winding is also done for zari thread / silk thread used for value addition during the weaving

process.

 Warping is done for preparing the yarns to be used in the warp. The warping method used in

Kaithun is known as ‘peg warping’, since wooden pegs are used in the process. These wooden
pegs, locally known as ‘pinjras’, are placed along the whole length of the yarn so that a
continuously criss-crossed set of two yarns may be obtained for the weaving process. (The criss-
crossing later on helps in finding out the broken yarn on the loom during the course of weaving.)

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 Sizing- Sizing is mainly done for imparting the yarn enough strength, surface glaze and

stiffness so that it can withstand the beating of the reed during the weaving process and also

maintain the stiffness necessary for even weaving and a proper look of the sari once the weaving is

complete.

Sizing is done only for cotton yarn and is generally done by using thin paste of rice (‘maandi’).

Some weavers also use the juice of a special variety of onions.

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 Beaming:

 In the process of weaving, for warp yarns, we need to produce pre bean which is also called

warpers beam. To produce warpers beam we need warping machine with a creel capacity about

400-700 cone capacity. To produce a weavers beam we need 6 to 12 warpers beam. Number of

cones to be se in the creel depends on production planning.

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 Weft winding refers to winding or reeling of weft yarns. Weft are threads that are woven

under and over the threads that are held on a loom - a frame or machine for weaving fabric

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 The loom
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THE MACHINE USED FOR WEAVING FABRIC IS A LOOM.

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 Weaving process
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 Warp beam- , located in the back of the loom, is a large roller on which all the warp yarns to be
used for the cloth are wound parallel to each other.

 The warp yarns pass through the harnesses, which look like picture frames holding many thin
vertical wires called heddles, each with a hole (eye) in the middle.

 The purpose of the harnesses is to raise and lower groups of warp yarns. The number of harnesses
is varies from 2 to about 30, depending on the complexity of the weave.

 The warp yarns are separated into an upper group and lower group , thus creating an opening or
Shed.

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 The shed is made when a harness or groups of harnesses are raised. Its allows the filling yarn to
travel across the loom over some warp yarns but under other warp yarns.
 A shuttle or other insertion device carries the filling yarn.

 The warp yarns, after passing through the harnesses , pass through a reed, which is a frame with
thin, vertical, nonmovable wires. Narrow openings, or dents, exist between the wires; their
purpose is to keep the warp yarns separated .

 In the process of weaving , the insertion device passes in front of the reed, placing a filling yarn
(pick). then the reed which resembles a comb, pushes the loose pick in the shed up to the edge of
the already made cloth and returns to a position near the harness. This is called beating up.

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 This complete one cycle of filling yarn insertion .

 These steps are continually repeated so that many thousand of filling yarns are inserted to produce

the woven fabric.

 The completed cloth is slowly wound onto the cloth roll located in the front of the loom.

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 Basic motions
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of the loom
 Shedding- raising one or more harnesses to separate the warp yarns and form a shed

 Picking- passing the shuttle through the shed to insert the filling

 Beating up- pushing the filling yarns into place in the fabric with the reed.

 Take –up- winding finished fabric onto the fabric beam

 Take off- At the same time, the warp yarns are released from the warp beam which is known as

'letting off'.

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 Types of loom
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 Shuttle loom- A shuttle is a wooden , boat like device with a bobbin or quill placed inside with filling yarn wound around

it. Looms that use a shuttle to insert the filling yarn in the shed are known as shuttle, fly shuttle, or conventional loom.

 Shuttleless loom- use other devices to bring the filling yarn through the shed. The yarn comes from cones placed at the side

of the loom. Once the filling yarn brought across the loom, the yarn is cut, often leaving a little fringe at the edge of the fabric.

 Missile, or projectile, loom- is a small, light gripper device (about the size of pocketknife) that is propelled across

the loom, pulling filling yarn behind it.

 The dragging of the filling yarn across a loom creates strain on this yarn, so projectile looms are not suited for weaving with

fragile or very weak filling yarns.

 Rapier loom- uses a rapier to pull the filling yarn across the loom. The rapier is a metal rod, either rigid or flexible, that

has a gripper on one end.

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 Jet loom – take the filling yarn across the loom by using a high speed jet of either air or
water. The force of the air or water carries the yarn from one side to the other. Jet looms
are faster than missile or rapier looms.

 Air jet loom- the initial propulsion force is provided by main nozzle. Relay nozzle along
the shed produce additional booster jets to help carry the yarns across the loom.
 Water jet loom- there is only a main nozzle to provide the propulsion of the filling yarn.
This loom is very efficient , with only a small amount of water required , and it is the
fastest type of Shuttleless loom.

 Circular loom- weaves tubular fabric, such as pillowcases.

 Triaxial loom- weaves three sets of yarns, usually identical in size and twist, at 60

degree angles to each other. Two yarns sets are warp and other set is filling.
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 Selvedge
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A T E A C H S I D E O F A L E N G T H O F W O V E N F A B R I C T H E R E I S A S E L V E D G E A N D

ITS FUNCTION IS TO STOP THE OUTSIDE ENDS FRAYING FROM THE BODY OF

THE CLOTH.

I T P R O V I D E S S T R E N G T H T O W I T H S T A N D T H E S T R A I N S O F W E A V I N G , W H I C H

ARISE AS THE CLOTH CONTRACTS IN WIDTH DUE TO WEFT CRIMPING IN

FRONT OF THE FELL, AND ALSO THOSE STRAINS THAT OCCURS AS A RESULT

OF STENTER PULLING DURING WET PROCESSING AFTER WEAVING.

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 Types of selvedge
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 A regular selvedge is always a good indication of good woven cloth quality.

 Hair pin selvedge- is formed naturally when the weft is supplied endlessly from a pirn in a shuttle because the yarn

is continuous and forms loops round the last ends in the fabric.

 Tuck selvedge- it produces a neat edge to the fabric and so eliminates the need for hemming in certain enduses.

 Fringe selvedges- have been used as centre selvedges on shuttle looms for many years, but their use only became
essential for outside selvedges with the advent of the rapier and fluid-jet methods of weft insertion.

 Leno selvedges- gives good strength and involves a simpler mechanism than that required for the helical selvedge .

 Dummy selvedge- to make the severing action possible, it is necessary to trap the protruding pieces of weft between
additional threads, which normally weave plain.

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

Basic weave

Plain weave Twill weave Satin weave

Right hand twill Filling faced

Basket weave Rib weave Warp faced
Left hand twill Satin weave
Satin weave
Warp faced twill
Filling faced twill
Broken twill
Reverse twill
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 Plain weave
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 One filling yarn and one warp yarn are

constructed at right angles to each other
whereby the filling yarn passes alternately
over and then under one warp.

 Firm and wears well

 Ravels less than comparable fabrics
 Used as background for printing or
embroidery designs
 Snag resistant
 Tends to wrinkle more than other weave
 Lower tear strength than other weaves

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 Basket weave
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 Basket weave are made by having groups of two or more warp yarns interlacing as one
yarn with groups of two or more filling yarns that also interlace as one yarn.

 Fabrics with basket weaves are reversible unless the finish or print makes one side the
face.

 The two-by-two (2*2) basket weave is the most common. In this weave , the warp yarns
in pairs interlace in plain weave sequence with the filling yarn in the pairs.

 Decorative weave
 Flat weave effect
 Coarse looking
 Loose type goods
 Porous
 Shed wrinkles

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 Rib weave
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 A fabric with a plain weave may have a ribbed surface.

 The rib is produced because the filling yarns are thicker than the warp yarns.

 Heavy and thick yarns , or groups of yarns, are used in one direction and fine yarns in the other

direction, producing a rib effect in the length or crosswise direction on the surface of the fabric.

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 Twill weave
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 Filling yarns are interlaced over and under two or more warp yarns in a fixed staggered manner,

forming a diagonal line or ridge on the fabric surface.

 The direction of the diagonal may be formed from right to left, from left to right, or a combination

of both.

 Right hand twill

 Left hand twill
 Warp faced twill
 Filling faced twill
 Broken twill
 Reverse twill

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RIGHT HAND
TWILL

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AKSHAT RANA , TD, PEARL JAIPUR Left hand twill 01/20/2022

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 Broken twill

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 Satin weave
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 There in only one interlacing for each warp yarn, and only one interlacing for each filling

yarn in each repeat of the weave.

 No two interlacing ever touch or are adjacent. This means the satin weave fabrics have

relatively long floats.

 One set of yarns forms most of the face, the other set forms most of the back.

 In warp face satin, the face is predominantly warp yarns.

 A filling face satin has filling yarns predominant on the face.

 High luster on the face of the fabric

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 Sateen weave
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 Fabric with long floats across the surface of the filling direction of the weave characterized by the

floating filling yarns visible on the surface of the fabric.

 Utilizes cotton or wool staple fiber yarn

 More filling yarns on face as compared to satin with more warp yarns on face

 Shiny, but less lustrous than warp faced satin

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THANK YOU

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