Basic Picture Framing: All the Skills and Tools You Need to Get Started

Contents

Acknowledgments

Introduction

1. Materials

Matting

Mounting

Framing

Hanging

2. Matting

Sizing the Mat

Selecting the Matboard

Cutting the Outer Border

Cutting the Window

Making Double and Triple Mats

3. Mounting

Using Foam Board

T-Hinges

Photo Corners

Spray Adhesives

Mounting Needlework

4. Framing and Finishing

Selecting a Frame

Metal Frame Kits

Wooden Frame Kits

Building Your Own Picture Frame

Cutting Glass

Framing Canvases

Hanging the Frame

Resources

Introduction

Picture framing consists of a set of simple skills—measuring, cutting mats, choosing and constructing frames, and putting all of the elements together. With practice, these skills are easy to learn, and they don’t require a lot of expensive equipment or a large workshop. For less than $100, you can mat and frame pictures at your kitchen table, if you like.

But picture framing is also an art. The play of color and texture between mat, frame, and subject make the entire finished piece a work of art in its own right, and the possibilities are nearly endless for the different looks you can create with simple changes in mat or frame.

It is the aim of this book to teach the basics of both the art and the craft of picture framing. It will give you a basic equipment list and outline the skills you will need to mat and frame photographs, paintings, and even needlework. It will teach you how to build kit frames and construct simple wooden picture frames. It will also cover framing stretched canvases and larger pieces, including how to safely hang them for display. Hopefully, this book will also lead you to experiment as you explore the artistic side of matting and framing, trying out new colors in your mats and different materials in your frames. You are encouraged to look for framed art whenever possible, to study these elements, and to determine what your own tastes are and how to bring them back to the worktable.

1

Materials

Most of the tools and equipment you will need to mat, mount, and frame for yourself can be purchased at your local craft shop or art supply store. Check your local phone directory for stores near you (also see Resources on page 101).

  Matting

HANDHELD MAT CUTTER AND SPARE BLADES

Available at most art supply shops, handheld mat cutters come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The model shown here, the Alto’s model 45, is designed to be used with a more complicated mat cutting system but works fine on its own. It costs around $35, but you can spend as little as $20 to get a service able handheld cutter. Better-quality cutters will have lines alongside the blade that make it easier to know where to start and end your cut. Spare blades come separately, usually in packs of five or six for around $2. Since having a sharp blade in your mat cutter is very important, be sure to purchase at least one pack.

TABLETOP MAT CUTTER

Tabletop cutters allow for quicker, easier work when cutting mats, because the marking and measuring are simplified. Tabletop cutters are more expensive than handheld cutters, however, and many of those in the lower price ranges are fairly small and will not allow you to do larger projects. If you will be cutting smaller mats on a frequent basis, they are well worth the investment. Expect to pay $75 to $150 for a tabletop mat cutter of reasonable quality. You will also need spare blades.

T-SQUARE AND STRAIGHT EDGE

Metal straight edges are best. Plastic, plain wood, and metal-edged wooden rulers are okay for measuring, but they may be dinged, nicked, or cut by the blade of the cutter and result in a crooked cut. Choose one with a non slip backing such as cork to prevent sliding.

Your Workspace

You don’t need a great deal of room to do your own matting and framing, nor do you need a specialized workshop area. A wide tabletop, big enough to allow your work to lay flat, is sufficient. For larger pieces of matboard, you can even use the floor. Remember to protect surfaces from the sharp edges of the cutting tools by doing your cutting on a cutting board or a thick piece of cardboard.

TAPE MEASURE

It is handy to have a tape measure on hand for spot-checking measurements when you don’t want to lift your T-square or straight edge out of place.

UTILITY KNIFE AND SPARE BLADES

Either a standard box-cutter utility knife or one with snap-off disposable blades is suitable. Both can be purchased at craft stores, hardware stores, and art supply shops, along with extra blades.

PENCIL

A sharp pencil is needed for marking lines on the matboard. Have some scrap mat or paper handy for figuring measurements as well.

SINGLE-EDGE RAZOR BLADES

Useful for finishing undercut mat corners. Razor blades should be handled with great care, and doubleedge blades should be avoided, because there is no dull edge to grasp with your fingers.

EMERY BOARD

Can be used to lightly sand the rough edge of a mat if your blade is dull and you get a ragged cut. Can also be used to fix small tears hanging from the corners if the matboard does not fall away cleanly.

SOFT ERASER

Can be used to burnish the inside bevel of the cut mat; also used to remove small smudges of dirt from the face of the mat or visible pencil lines from any part of the work.

MATBOARD

Available from art supply stores and some framing shops in a variety of colors, matboard comes in standard-size sheets of 32 x 40 inches and 40 x 60 inches. The two major manufacturers of most matboard are Crescent and Bainbridge.

There are a few different types of matboard generally available that are suitable for framing purposes. Decorative matboard, also called non-conservation matboard, is wood pulp that has been buffered by a chemical process to seal the acids into the interior of the board. The buffering process isn’t permanent, and with time the center core can yellow. There is also a potential for acid burn on the artwork if it comes into contact with the mat, and the mat or the artwork may eventually fade and turn brown. Decorative matboard is relatively inexpensive, costing around $8 for a standard 32 x 40 sheet at a framing supply store. If you are simply framing decorative pieces that are not intended to last more than about three years and that are not particularly valuable, decorative matboard is suitable, but it is recommended that you spend a few extra dollars and buy at least a conservation-quality matboard.

Conservation-quality matboard is any kind that is acidfree. It won’t stain or burn the artwork over time. There are a couple different grades of conservation matboard. Alpha cellulose matboard is a wood-pulp board that is pHneutralized. A standard sheet will cost around $10 to $12. Cotton rag matboard is made of 100 percent cotton fibers rather than manmade or wood-pulp materials. It is unbuffered and undyed and naturally acid-free, and it will not burn the work or fade with time. For this reason, it is used in the framing of