Fresh & Fast: Inspired Cooking for Every Season and Every Day

Contents

Title Page

Contents

Copyright

Acknowledgments

Introduction

APPETIZERS

Soy Almonds

Curried Pecans

Orange-and-Fennel-Flavored Olives

Lemon-and-Garlic-Flavored Olives

Crisp Fried Eggplant Strips

Toasted Pita Triangles

Ricotta Cheese Spread with Lemon and Herbs

Fresh Goat Cheese with Basil and Lemon

Chick-Pea Puree with Lemon and Mint

Smoked Salmon on Black Bread with Sweet Butter

Bagna Cauda

Crostini

Toppings for Crostini

Roasted Garlic Puree

Bruschetta with Braised Escarole with Garlic and Olive Oil

Bruschetta with Red and Yellow Tomatoes

Mozzarella, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Olives and Basil

SOUPS

Quick-Chilled Cumin-Scented Fresh Tomato and Corn Soup

Chilled Avocado Soup with Tomato Salsa

Curried Carrot Soup

Chilled Curried Tomato Soup with Cilantro Cream

Cold Curried Spinach Soup with Yogurt Swirl

Chilled Fresh Corn and Buttermilk Chowder with Shrimp

Broccoli and Orzo Soup with Egg Threads

Roasted Tomato and Fresh Corn Soup

Broccoli and Ditalini Soup with Hot Pepper Oil

Pureed Carrot, Potato and Ginger Soup

Winter Vegetable Soup

White Bean, Spinach and Italian Sausage Soup

Potato and Garlic Soup with Prosciutto

Basil and Garlic Puree

Pureed Roasted Squash Soup with Shiitake Mushrooms

Black Bean Soup with Roasted Peppers and Tomatoes

Clear-Broth Clam Chowder

Seafood Soup with Saffron-Tomato Broth

SANDWICHES

Pandorato

Dagwood Bumstead Italiano

Spinach, Sautéed Mushroom and Shaved Parmigiano Sandwich

Pan-Grilled Smoked Turkey, Fontina, Bacon and Avocado Sandwich

Tomato, Basil and Mayonnaise on a Toasted English Muffin

Warm Egg Salad on Whole Wheat Toast

Mashed Avocado, Bacon, Lettuce and Tomato on Sourdough Toast

Sausage, Pepper and Egg Sandwiches

Crisp-Fried Soft-Shell Crab in a Pita Pocket with Spicy Tahini

Sliced Pork Loin Sandwich with Fennel, Garlic and Roasted Red Pepper

Grilled Marinated Lamb with Cucumber-Yogurt Sauce in Pita

PASTA

Three Pasta Recipes

Pasta Primavera, Asian Style

Farfalle with Fresh Tomatoes and Basil

Farfalle with Zucchini, Yellow Squash and Mint

Cavatelli with Spinach and Tomatoes

Pasta with Arugula, Olives and Fresh Tomatoes

Pasta with Toasted Walnut and Parmigiano-Reggiano Butter Sauce

Penne with Asparagus, Smoked Salmon and Dill

Penne Rigate with Asparagus, Prosciutto and Mushrooms

Penne with White Beans, Tomatoes and Basil

Penne with Roasted Vegetables

Pasta with Smoked Mozzarella, Browned Red Peppers and Shiitake Mushrooms

Linguine with Fresh Clams

Linguine with Spicy Tomato Sauce and Mussels

Ceci e Pasta

Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe, White Beans and Garlic-and-Red-Pepper Oil

POULTRY AND OTHER MEATS

Famous Lemon and Basil Chicken

Chicken with Broccoli Rabe and Bacon

Chicken Breasts Oven-Roasted with Bell Peppers

Sautéed Chicken with Prosciutto and Orange Gremolata

Provençal Chicken with Green Olives and Dried Currants

Honey-Glazed Orange and Rosemary Chicken

Butterflied Cornish Hens in Rosemary and Lemon

Stir-Fried Chicken, Green Beans and Walnuts

Chicken and Shiitake Mushrooms in Tomato Sauce

Two-Cheese Turkey Burgers

Soy and Ginger Turkey Burgers

Broiled Lamb Marinated in Tangerine, Soy and Ginger

Grilled or Broiled Leg of Lamb with Garlic and Rosemary Crust

Rosemary-Garlic Broiled Lamb Hash

Lamb with Lentils and Caramelized Onions

Pork Cutlets with Onions and Bell Pepper Vinaigrette

Pork Tenderloin Marinated in Soy and Orange

Pork Loin with Fennel and Garlic

Favorite Meat Loaf

Veal Stew with Green Peppers and Potatoes

SEAFOOD

Skillet-Browned Tuna Steaks with Ginger, Garlic and Soy Glaze

Soy-and-Ginger-Glazed Salmon Steaks

Oven-Roasted Salmon Steaks with Braised Leeks and Dill

Oven-Roasted Halibut with Herb Citrus Vinaigrette

Grilled Cumin-Marinated Swordfish

Swordfish Marinated in Lemon, Rosemary and Garlic

Mako Shark with Provençal Marinade

Foil-Poached Salmon Fillets with Warm Tomato Salad

Baked Fish Fillets with Herb and Citrus Topping

Tomato-and-Herb-Topped Fish Fillets Roasted with Potatoes

Rosemary Roasted Potatoes with Cod and Asparagus

Cod with Roasted Tomato Sauce and Black Olives

Pan-Seared Scallops with Pesto and Salsa

Baked Scallops with Bacon, Sautéed Apples and Cider Sauce

Grilled Sea Scallop Brochettes, Greek Style

Shrimp with Tomatoes, Spinach and Basil

Spicy Marinated Shrimp

Mussels in Tomato-Herb Broth

Mussels in White Wine with Fresh Tomato Salsa

GRAINS AND BEANS

Simple Pilaf

Rice Pilaf with Currants, Garlic and Toasted Walnuts

Parmesan Rice

Sesame Brown Rice Pilaf with Garlic and Vegetables

Barley and Wild Rice Pilaf with Sautéed Mushrooms

Rice with Broccoli and Parmesan

Rice, Parmesan and Sun-Dried Tomato Pancakes

Corn and Rice with Parmesan

Fresh Tomato and Basil Risotto with Ricotta Salata

Carrot and Leek Risotto with Fresh Thyme

Black Bean and Vegetable Burrito

Marie’s Pasta Fagiola

Cannellini Beans with Arugula and Golden Garlic

Lentil and Rice Pilaf with Toasted Cumin Seeds

Simmered Lentils with Vegetables and Herbs

Curried Lentils and Vegetables

Basic Soft Polenta

Oven-Baked Polenta with Parmesan and Mozzarella Cheese

SALADS

Salad of Browned Potatoes with Garlic, Mushrooms, Red Peppers and Goat Cheese

Chick-Pea, Hard-Cooked Egg and Vidalia Onion Salad

White Bean Salad Platter

Black Bean and Yellow Rice Salad with Fresh Corn and Tomatoes

Warm Lentil and New Potato Salad with Sherry Wine Vinaigrette

Chicken Cutlet Salad with Avocado Tomato and Sweet Onion

Herb-Marinated Chicken, Shiitake Mushrooms and Roasted Potatoes Vinaigrette

Couscous with Lemon Dressing, Roasted Chicken, Mint and Dill

Swordfish, Potato and Celery Salad with Lemon and Parsley

Tuna Salad, Italian Style

Squid, Basil and Tomato Salad

Warm Potato Salad with Sardines and Mustard-and-Lemon Dressing

Spinach, Shrimp and Warm New Potato Salad

Lentil Salad with Italian Sausage and Mustard Vinaigrette

Lentil and Spinach Salad with Crisp Bacon Dressing

Mixed Greens with Toasted Walnuts and Parmigiano-Reggiano Curls

Mixed Greens and Fresh Herb Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette

Cabbage Salad with Lemon and Olive Oil

Cabbage Salad with Sesame Oil and Rice Vinegar

Tomato, Sweet Onion and Fresh Mint Salad

Tomato, Cucumber and Olive Salad with Crumbled Feta Cheese

Panzanella

Warm New Potato Salad with Scallions, White Wine and Olive Oil

Basic All-Around Potato Salad

Sesame Brown Rice Salad with Peanuts

Yellow Confetti Rice Salad

Couscous with Confetti Vegetables

White Bean and Fennel Salad

Lentil and Green Pea Salad with Lemon-and-Herb Dressing

Tomato and Bulgur Salad

Black Bean and White Corn Salad

Arugula, Pear, Parmesan and Walnut Salad

Salad of Prosciutto, Figs, Greens and Parmigiano-Reggiano

VEGETABLES

Oven-Roasted Asparagus with Shallot-Mustard Vinaigrette

Asparagus with Warm Chopped Egg, Lemon, Capers and Olive Oil

Warm Green Beans and Red Potatoes with Basil Vinaigrette

Green Beans with Two Red Peppers

Green Beans with Basil and Mint

Warm Beet Salad with Wilted Greens

Oven-Roasted Beets with Orange Gremolata

Broccoli with Crisp Garlic Slivers

Ginger Stir-Fried Broccoli with Soy Almonds

Broccoli with Potatoes and Tomatoes

Broccoli Rabe with Olive Oil and Garlic

Sweet and Sour Cabbage

Stir-Fry of Cabbages with Asian Flavors

Oven-Roasted Carrots with Lemon and Olives

Roasted Carrots and Parsnips

Lorena’s Fried Cauliflower

Cauliflower with Anchovy Sauce

Corn on the Cob

Corn and Lima Beans with Cream, Tomatoes and Basil

Baked Eggplant, Tomato and Basil Salad

Herb-Marinated Baked Eggplant Slices

Oven-Braised Fennel with Melted Parmigiano-Reggiano

Escarole with Vinegar and Olive Oil

Oven-Braised Leeks

Oven-Braised Leeks with Tomato and Orange Vinaigrette

Pan-Grilled Mushrooms

Mushrooms with Melted Parmigiano-Reggiano

Caramelized Small Onions

Oven-Roasted Sweet Onions

Green Peas with Bacon and New Potatoes

Sugar Snap Peas

Mom’s Roasted and Peeled Red Peppers

Easy Oven-Roasted Red Bell Peppers

Grilled Red Bell Peppers and Eggplant

Rough-Mashed Potatoes with Garlic

Roasted Potatoes with Red Peppers, Onions, and Rosemary

Roasted Potatoes and Shiitake Mushrooms

Skillet-Browned Red Potatoes with Rosemary and Garlic

Favorite Oven-Baked Potatoes with Olive Oil, Garlic and Herbs

Smothered Spinach

Oven-Roasted Sweet Potato Slices with Orange and Fresh Thyme

Roasted Tomatoes with Herb Crumbs

Warm Sautéed Tomato Slices with Melted Cheese

Winter Squash with Indian Flavors

Baked Squash with Parmesan, Onion and Bacon

Orange Baked Squash

Roasted Zucchini Vinaigrette with Basil and Mint

Roasted Zucchini with Red Onion Vinaigrette

Oven-Roasted Vegetable Plate with Herb Dressing

Roasted Summer Vegetables

DESSERTS

Umberto’s Oranges with Grand Marnier and Red Pepper

Papaya with Lime Sauce

Nectarines in Mint Syrup

Sliced Peaches or Nectarines with Candied Ginger

Grandpa’s Peaches in Red Wine

Raspberries and Fresh Figs

Summer Fruits in Lime Syrup

Strawberries with Raspberry Puree

Rhubarb with Strawberries

Sliced Strawberries with Honey

Whole Strawberries in Vanilla Sugar

Melon and Berries with Lime Sugar Syrup

Wine-Laced Watermelon

Fresh Pear Compote

Pears Baked in Red Wine

Warm Rosy Applesauce

Baked Apples

Poached Dried Apricots in Wine Sauce

Dried Figs in Red Wine

Fresh Plum Sauce

Lemon Sauce

Blueberry-Lemon Sauce

Fresh Apricot Sauce and Vanilla Ice Cream Sundae with Toasted Almonds

Fresh Fig Ice Cream

Crystallized Ginger Ice Cream with Red Plum Sauce

Chocolate Ice Cream with Espresso Sauce

Strawberry Granita

Orange Granita

Peach and Buttermilk Ice

Caramelized Bananas with Rich Chocolate Fudge Sauce

Rich Chocolate Pudding

Sweetened Ricotta

Baked Ricotta Pudding with Lemon Sauce

Mango and Rice Pudding with Toasted Coconut and Pistachios

Apple and Ginger Crisp

Peach and Blueberry Crisp with Toasted Almonds

Strawberry Shortcake

One-Egg Gingerbread

Index

About the Author

Connect with HMH on Social Media

Copyright © 1996 by Marie Simmons

All rights reserved

For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book, write to [email protected] or to Permissions, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company, 3 Park Avenue, 19th Floor, New York, New York 10016.

hmhbooks.com

The following recipes first appeared in Bon Appétit in slightly different form: Pureed Carrot, Potato and Ginger Soup (page 55); Potato and Garlic Soup with Prosciutto (page 58); Seafood Soup with Saffron-Tomato Broth (page 64); Pasta Primavera, Asian Style (page 96); Chicken with Broccoli Rabe and Bacon (page 114); Sesame Brown Rice Pilaf with Garlic and Vegetables (page 168); and Black Bean and Vegetable Burrito (page 18l). Courtesy of Bon Appétit.

The Library of Congress has cataloged the print edition as follows:

Simmons, Marie.

Fresh and fast : inspired cooking for every season and every day / Marie Simmons.

p. cm.

Includes index.

ISBN 0-395-97173-X (pbk.)

ISBN 0-618-44029-1 (pbk.)

1. Cookery. I. Title.

TX714.S576 1996

641.5—dc20 96-4351

eISBN 978-0-547-34719-6

v2.0620

Acknowledgments

THE THEME OF THIS BOOK TOOK HOLD when a friend and colleague, Maria Laghi, called me to say that one of New Jersey’s largest newspapers, The Bergen Record, wanted to add a column to their food pages and suggested that I call and talk to them about writing it.

Today, seven years later, Fresh & Fast is a syndicated column appearing in 80 newspapers across the United States.

Along the way, I have worked with many wonderful and supportive editors: Rosemary Black, Charles Monaghan, Patricia Mack, Russ Parsons, Colleen Bates and Jim Burns. But I especially want to thank Maria for thinking of me when there were so many other talented cooks and food writers out there.

I have enjoyed writing this column from the beginning because it was never an assignment, but a blank page, almost a diary, where I could express what I thought about what I just happened to be cooking that week or that day, which was, and still is, both fresh and fast.

Thank you Barry Estabrook, Rux Martin, Cristen Brooks, Judith Weber, Alan Richardson, Anne Disrude, Betty Alfenito and Susan McClellan. Without your brilliance, Fresh & Fast would not exist.

Introduction

IT’S DINNERTIME, AND MY KITCHEN IS A FRENZY OF ACTIVITY. Seasoned rice simmers on the back of the stove, while I chop some scallions and green peppers to stir in later, along with oil and lemon. Chicken cutlets marinate in garlic, fresh thyme, olive oil and lime juice, ready to be pan-seared while the rice cools. In a few minutes, the cooked chicken will be placed on some prewashed salad greens with a spoonful of the rice salad on one side of the plate and a few pieces of roasted red pepper on the other. Within 35 minutes of stepping inside the door, we’re enjoying dinner.

Uncomplicated meals like this one—marinated chicken cutlets and Yellow Confetti Rice Salad (page 224)—which I can make effortlessly and share with my family at the end of the day, are an essential part of my busy life. I choose fresh vegetables and fruits, quick-cooking cuts of meat, poultry and seafood, and pasta, rice, beans and grains over ready-made products. Fresh ingredients not only taste better but are more convenient than most packaged convenience items.

Red-skinned potatoes, for instance, need no peeling and are perfect quartered and browned in olive oil and seasoned with crushed red pepper, rosemary and garlic. Chicken cutlets, quickly seared, transform a salad into a main dish; in a sandwich, they become a hearty, nearly instant meal. Fresh scallops are nature’s gift to the world of fast food, taking only a minute or two to cook in a hot skillet. Nectarines, their tender skins left on, need only to be sliced and placed in a mint sugar syrup to become dessert.

Because I get as much pleasure from eating as I do from cooking, I sometimes choose to devote a little more effort to preparation for the sake of taste. For example, the taste and texture of fresh green beans or fresh broccoli more than compensate for the few extra minutes they take to trim. The juice squeezed from a lemon or lime adds much more sparkle than bottled. I have yet to experience any instant garlic product that can replace the robust flavor of real cloves in their papery wrappings.

Relying on fresh ingredients means that my cooking has variety because it is influenced by the seasons. When the weather is warm and sunny, I turn to cooling foods that complement the day and my mood; bright, robustly flavored dishes like Tomato, Sweet Onion and Fresh Mint Salad (page 218) or Chilled Fresh Corn and Buttermilk Chowder with Shrimp (page 49). When it is gloomy and gray outside, I begin a shopping list for a soul-warming bowl of Black Bean Soup with Roasted Peppers and Tomatoes (page 62) or Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe, White Beans and Garlic-and-Red-Pepper Oil (page 111).

Sometimes, it is whatever looks most tempting at my local farmer’s market that sets off the chain of events in my kitchen. At other times, I find inspiration in my crowded A&P. A Saint Patrick’s Day sale on cabbage may prompt a zesty Cabbage Salad with Lemon and Olive Oil (page 216). Topped with Spicy Marinated Shrimp (page 160), it becomes a meal. Another night, a special on cod fillets may catch my eye, and I decide to have Cod with Roasted Tomato Sauce and Black Olives (page 153).

TO MAKE THE PREPARATION EASIER, I always keep enough staples on hand for simple dinners. My cupboards are stocked with nonperishable basics: a selection of pastas—ditalini, penne, farfalle and spaghetti—and a variety of rices—brown and white Texmati and Italian or medium-grain. Equally essential are yellow onions, garlic and olive oil.

My refrigerator drawers are always stocked with vegetables and fruits that I consider indispensable: carrots, celery, scallions, mushrooms, lemons and limes. I buy fresh herbs and keep them perky by standing them in a glass of water in the refrigerator. On another shelf sits a salad spinner filled with washed salad greens.

As much as I love fresh ingredients, there are some ready-made products that I couldn’t get along without. Thawed frozen peas can be stirred uncooked into rice or lentil dishes. Frozen lima beans can be added to soup or served plain with a warm vinaigrette dressing. Canned Italian plum tomatoes make a terrific quick sauce for pasta. Canned chicken broth, especially the relatively new reduced-sodium kind, is a perfectly acceptable substitute for homemade. Canned beans are mainstays in my kitchen. Black beans, drained and rinsed, are delicious in a salad when mixed with diced tomato, cilantro, crunchy corn and a dressing of lime juice and oil (page 198). Cannellini beans are tasty in pasta when mixed with bitter greens or in a salad.

MOST OF THE RECIPES IN THIS BOOK can be made in less than 1 hour. Others take a little longer, because they benefit from chilling, slow simmering or slow baking. Nevertheless, these dishes are sometimes even more convenient than the quicker ones, because you can do other things while they cook. When a recipe does have a step that will involve extra time, such as marinating, or when it calls for another recipe as an ingredient, like roasted red peppers or leftover grilled lamb, I alert you up front so you can plan ahead.

Because I’ve learned to adjust my menu according to the time and energy I have, dinnertime is the best part of my day. Part of the secret to my enjoyment is that I make only what I feel like eating. From my mother, who is still a wonderful cook at the age of 84, I’ve learned that good food does not have to be complicated. A fine dish can materialize from four ingredients: spaghetti, melted butter, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and toasted walnuts (the recipe is on page 102). Food is too important to be relegated to mere sustenance. Or as I like to say, life is just too short to waste on a bad meal.

APPETIZERS

FAST

Finger Foods

Soy Almonds

Curried Pecans

Toasted Pita Triangles

Fresh Goat Cheese with Basil and Lemon

Chick-Pea Puree with Lemon and Mint

Smoked Salmon on Black Bread with Sweet Butter

Bagna Cauda

Crostini

Toppings for Crostini

Roasted Eggplant, Olive and Red Pepper Spread

Olivada

Mushrooms with Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Herbs

Fork Foods (Antipasti)

Bruschetta with Braised Escarole with Garlic and Olive Oil

Bruschetta with Red and Yellow Tomatoes

Mozzarella, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Olives and Basil

WHEN YOU HAVE MORE TIME

Orange-and-Fennel-Flavored Olives

Lemon-and-Garlic-Flavored Olives

Crisp Fried Eggplant Strips

Ricotta Cheese Spread with Lemon and Herbs

Roasted Garlic Puree

Soy Almonds

PREPARATION TIME: 5 MINUTES

COOKING TIME: 3 MINUTES

MAKES: 2 CUPS

ONE OF OUR DAUGHTER’S FIRST jobs was as a prep cook in a health food restaurant, where she made the soy almonds for an Asian pasta salad. She gave me the recipe, and now I keep a supply on hand at all times. You can also make this with walnuts or a mixture of nuts. If you like your nuts a little spicy (hot), add a drop or two of chili oil, available where Asian groceries are sold.

Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet. Add the almonds and stir to coat.

Add the soy sauce and the chili oil, if using, and cook, stirring, over high heat for 3 minutes, or until the almonds are coated with the mixture and the skillet is dry. Transfer to a platter (do not use a paper towel; the almonds will stick to it) and cool.

Store in plastic containers until ready to serve.

Curried Pecans

PREPARATION TIME: 5 MINUTES

COOKING TIME: 20 MINUTES

MAKES: 2 CUPS

THIS IS A VERY OLD RECIPE that I learned to make 25 years ago, when curry was considered daring and exotic. These nuts are a bit old-fashioned, I admit, but I love to munch on them with a tall, cool drink. They are also great sprinkled over chicken salad, stir-fried green beans or a mixed green salad.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Spread the pecans in a large, shallow baking pan and dot with the butter. Bake just until the butter melts, about 5 minutes.

Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the curry powder and the salt. Stir to coat.

Bake, stirring often, until the pecans are toasted and coated with the butter and curry, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool; store in an airtight container in a cool place.

Orange-and-Fennel-Flavored Olives

PREPARATION TIME: 5 MINUTES

MARINATING TIME: 1 TO 5 DAYS

SERVES: 8

KEEP THESE ON HAND for a quick snack before dinner. I like the salty, briny taste of Kalamata olives, but any brine-cured black olive (Niçoise, Greta or Moroccan) can be used.

Place the olives on the work surface and bruise them lightly with the side of a large chef’s knife.

Combine the olives, oil, garlic, orange zest, fennel seeds and red pepper flakes in a storage container with a tight-fitting lid. Shake to distribute the seasonings evenly.

Refrigerate for 1 to 5 days, turning the container and shaking occasionally, before serving. Let stand at room temperature before serving. These will keep for up to 2 weeks.

Plan Ahead:

Marinate these olives 1 to 5 days before serving.

Lemon-and-Garlic-Flavored Olives

PREPARATION TIME: 5 MINUTES

MARINATING TIME: 1 TO 5 DAYS

SERVES: 8

I LOVE THE TASTE OF GREEN OLIVES, especially the big, meaty ones from Sicily and southern Italy. Bottled green olives from Spain are also very good but are a little saltier than the Italian ones. You might want to rinse them well to remove some of the surface salt before using.

Place the olives on a work surface and bruise them lightly with the side of a large chef’s knife.

Combine the olives, oil, garlic, lemon, thyme and pepper in a storage container with a tight-fitting lid. Shake to distribute the seasonings evenly.

Refrigerate for 1 to 5 days, turning the container and shaking occasionally, before serving. Let stand at room temperature before serving. These will keep for up to 2 weeks.

Plan Ahead:

Marinate these olives 1 to 5 days before serving.

Crisp Fried Eggplant Strips

PREPARATION TIME: 10 MINUTES

DRAINING TIME: 1 TO 3 HOURS

COOKING TIME: 20 MINUTES (FOR 2 OR 3 BATCHES)

SERVES: 4

DON’T SKIP THE SALTING AND draining step, as it will draw out the moisture and help the eggplant fry up nice and crisp. These are delicious served before dinner.

Peel the eggplant and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices. Stack the slices in layers of two or three and cut through to make ¼-inch-wide strips. Toss in a bowl with the salt and transfer to a colander.

Set the colander in a bowl. Place a small plate on top of the eggplant and a heavy can on the plate to help squeeze out the excess moisture. Let stand for 1 to 3 hours.

Rinse the eggplant briefly with cold water and transfer to a large kitchen towel. Roll the eggplant up in the towel and squeeze it as dry as possible. Repeat with a dry towel.

Fill a deep skillet about one-third full with the oil. Heat the oil until a piece of eggplant sizzles upon contact. Fry the eggplant in two or three batches, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 8 minutes per batch. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon, draining off as much oil as possible. Blot each batch on a double thickness of paper towel.

Serve immediately. These look nice placed on a tray or shallow basket that has been lined with a printed cloth napkin (a solid napkin shows oil spots).

Plan Ahead:

Allow 1 to 3 hours drain the salted eggplant.

Toasted Pita Triangles

PREPARATION TIME: 5 MINUTES

BAKING TIME: 20 MINUTES

SERVES: 4 OR MORE

THESE TRIANGLES SEEM OLD HAT to me, but they are one recipe that my students always make at home, again and again. They tell me I could have retired (or at least been a CEO of a large pita chip company) if I had only thought to produce these commercially. The truth is, I would much rather make a few at a time for family and friends.

Once again, necessity was the mother of invention. I often buy pita breads, make one sandwich and the next day discover that the rest are dry and hard. So I tuck the bag of dry pitas in the freezer and forget about it. Then, whenever I feel like it, I thaw them, cut them into pieces, brush them with olive oil and toast them in the oven. Now I have a very efficient production line for