How to Use a Sewing Machine: A Beginner's Manual

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Sewing is a practical skill that is useful for running repairs and it can also be a great outlet for your creativity. There are so many interesting fabrics available today, as well as wonderful buttons and trims, that you can make something unique and personal with just a little time and effort.

THE BOOK FOR YOU

Modern sewing machines and sergers have so many exciting features that they can look a bit daunting to a less experienced sewer – but these not only make repetitive or complex tasks quick and stress-free, they can also open up a new world of decorative techniques. This book is designed to help you to choose the right machine for you, and then explains how to get the very best from it whatever you want to make.

BUYING THE RIGHT MACHINE

Chapter 1, Choosing a Machine, covers the different machines available, from a simple manual right through to the multifunction computerized models. There is advice on what particular features to look out for, depending on the type of sewing you want to do, complete with a handy flow chart to help you make your choice. Chapter 2, Knowing Your Machine, begins with how to set up your sewing area for efficient working, and then goes into a guided tour of a typical sewing machine and serger, with details of the main working parts and what they do. It covers the different types of presser foot and needle for the sewing machine and what they are used for. There are illustrated steps for basic techniques such as how to wind a bobbin on your sewing machine, and how to thread up for both the sewing machine and the serger, including how to set the correct tension on the threads for perfect stitch formation.

Chapter 1, Choosing a Machine, will help you to choose the right machine for your needs.

GETTING STARTED

In Chapter 3, Using Your Machine, we get started on sewing, with explanations of how to set up your machine and how to stitch and guide the fabric. A useful stitch glossary covers the basic stitches that are commonly available on the sewing machine and the serger. Troubleshooting sections look at common stitching or operational problems, what might have caused them, and how to put them right. A brief section on fabric covers the different types, and explains how best to handle some special fabrics. The chapter ends with information on other sewing equipment you will need for measuring, marking and cutting, along with a step-by-step basic skills section covering pinning, basting and simple hand-stitching techniques.

Chapter 3, Using Your Machine, will give you the confidence to get started with your new sewing machine.

SEWING TECHNIQUES

The remainder of the book introduces sewing techniques that you can use your machine for. Chapter 4, Sewing Seams, covers the most often used types of seam, with illustrated steps explaining how to stitch each one. There is also a short section with a range of techniques to finish the raw edges of the seam allowance after stitching a straightforward seam, to give a more professional look to your sewing. In addition this chapter covers how to handle corners and curves, as well as stitching darts. Chapter 5, Sewing Hems, covers both basic techniques and decorative treatments, while Chapter 6, Zippers and Buttonholes, looks at the different ways of inserting zippers and adding buttons, buttonholes and other closures. In Chapter 7, Gathers, Tucks and Pleats, we start on some decorative techniques, with how to handle gathers, tucks and pleats for a perfect result every time. Chapter 8, Binding and Trimming, details the best techniques for making and adding binding or piping, as well as sewing on store-bought trims. Chapter 9, Decorative Techniques, is all about embellishing techniques, such as machine embroidery, appliqué, patchwork and quilting, including the basic steps for making a complete quilt. At the end of the book is an extensive glossary, which explains all the sewing terms used in the book for quick reference.

LEARNING BY DOING

One of the major benefits of being able to sew is that you are no longer tied to the colors and styles available in the stores – you can make whatever you like in whatever fabric you choose. And even if you don’t have time to make a complete project from scratch, many of the techniques in this book can be used to personalize store-bought items so they are one-of-a-kind. Learning to sew is the first step into an exciting new world; learning to make the most of your sewing machine will help you to build your skills quickly to achieve professional-looking results. Don’t be afraid to experiment on your machine – you may find a wonderful new way to accomplish something and even the odd disaster can usually be turned into something different. One of the joys of fabric is that it is so forgiving – there aren’t many types that cannot be unpicked and stitched again.

If you are new to sewing, start by making something quite simple and straightforward that will allow you to concentrate on learning to use your machine and understanding what the different functions will do for you. As you progress in confidence and skill you can move on to more complex projects – the only way to become an experienced sewer is by doing lots of sewing!

Chapter 2, Knowing Your Machine, provides essential advice on choosing presser feet and sewing machine needles whatever the sewing task to be undertaken.

Chapters 4 to 8 outline all the practical tasks you can use your sewing machine for including sewing seams, hemming and making trimmings.

Chapter 9, Decorative Techniques, introduces some of the creative embellishments that your sewing machine can help you to achieve.

CHOOSING A MACHINE

TYPES OF SEWING MACHINE

SEWING MACHINE FEATURES

THE RIGHT MACHINE

Sewing is an exciting and rewarding pastime that will not only save you money but also allow you to make something that is uniquely yours. Today, it has never been easier to make your own professionally finished soft furnishings, clothes and accessories with a wide range of sewing machines on the market to help you. But how do you choose the right machine for your needs? This chapter will give you all the information you need to help you to decide which is the perfect sewing machine for you.

TYPES OF SEWING MACHINE

There are many different types of sewing machine available on the market, ranging from basic designs with only a small selection of stitches to computerized models that can automatically stitch detailed embroidery designs from a picture or photograph.

WHICH MACHINE?

While most sewing machines are suitable for a range of sewing jobs, some are designed for a specific task and will not be multipurpose. As a general rule, the more stitches and functions a machine has the more expensive it will be. However, there is very little point in paying extra for features you just won’t use. Begin by taking an overview of the different types of sewing machine available to you.

MANUAL MACHINES

Manual sewing machines are operated by turning a hand wheel with one hand or by pumping on a treadle with your foot. Many old, reconditioned manual machines are still going strong and can be found on auction sites or in antique stores. Generally, such machines can only perform basic stitching, but for most straightforward sewing they are perfectly adequate, if a little slow. They are sturdy and simple to service – there is little to go wrong on them – and ideal if there is not a reliable electricity supply. Machines for children are usually manual and although these are really only toys they will stitch a basic seam. Manual machines for adults are still made, particularly for communities that do not use electricity, such as the Amish. These machines generally offer several different stitches, a buttonhole function and zigzag.

An antique manual sewing machine has little to go wrong and well-serviced or reconditioned machines may still work well.

THINGS TO CONSIDER

illustration If you are buying a second-hand machine, make sure it is in good working order and that you can still get replacement needles.

illustration With some basic manual machines you might not be able to stitch zigzag or alter the stitch length – all they will do is stitch a straight seam.

illustration Some very old machines may stitch chain stitch instead of lockstitch and this is not such a secure stitch.

illustration If concern for the environment is one of the factors in your desire to sew your own items, a non-electric machine is a truly green option.

illustration Don’t be tempted to buy a handheld battery-driven machine – it may be fine for the odd straight seam or simple repair, but you will not be able to do any serious sewing with it.

ELECTRIC MACHINES

An electric sewing machine has a motor in the body that moves the needle up and down, coordinating it with the movement of the feed dog and bobbin mechanism below the needle plate (see Fabric Feed, for more details). The motor is usually driven by a foot pedal – the harder you press your foot down the faster you sew, while the feed dog automatically feeds the fabric under the needle at the correct speed. The foot pedal allows you to keep both hands free to guide the fabric. The stitch type, width and length are selected by turning dials. There is a wide range of electric machines available, from inexpensive basic machines with only a few stitch options to more expensive models with lots of stitches to choose from.

A budget electric machine has no fancy extras so it is very simple to operate. It will only have a small range of preset stitches and may not have some functions, such as the option to adjust the stitch width; however, it will be fine for basic sewing.

A mid-range electric machine will have a wider range of preset stitches, including a one-step automatic buttonhole, the ability to adjust stitch width as well as length, and extra functions, such as adjustable foot pressure. Check which extra functions you need before making a final decision between different models.

THINGS TO CONSIDER

illustration Electric machines are much faster and more accurate than antique manual models.

illustration Once you have selected an electric machine you will not be able to add more stitches or functions later, so make sure it will do everything you may need for the foreseeable future.

illustration A second-hand electric machine will give you more built-in functions for your money, but you should make sure that it is a reputable brand in good working order.

illustration Some early electric machines had each stitch pattern on a small pattern disc. If you buy a second-hand machine that operates this way, ensure it has a good selection of discs as you will find it difficult to source more.

illustration A cheap, no-brand supermarket buy may seem to have all the functions you need, but will it be sturdy enough for frequent use? Accessories may not be available to buy later, and you should check that you can adjust the stitch width and length, as if these are preset your stitching options will be limited.

COMPUTERIZED MACHINES

Computerized sewing machines have many more stitches than ordinary electric machines and often include extra functions to allow you to create your own simple patterns. A computerized machine has several motors that power the different functions of the machine, giving precise control and making it possible to produce hundreds of different stitches. It contains computer chips with the correct tension, length and width for each stitch style programed in by the manufacturer, and in addition these can usually be adjusted to create special effects. Stitches are selected either by pressing a key or by using a touch pad linked to an LCD screen on the front of the machine. Many computerized machines feature the ability to memorize sequences of stitches so you can create and store designs you use often. On top-of-the-range models you may also be able to copy extra stitch patterns onto the machine from a CD or memory card, connect to the Internet via computer to download new designs, or use your computer to create personalized designs.

Using software

Customizing and digitizing software can be used in conjunction with computerized sewing machines but it will require a separate computer to run on. Before buying any software, do make sure your computer has the correct specification to run it. The subject of software is too complex to go into in detail here, but if this is an area you are interested in, look at the available software first and choose the best program for your needs, then check out the sewing machine models compatible with it. And remember, on some machines you can create and save stitch sequences and motifs – if this is all you require you may not need software.

A basic computerized machine will have a wide range of preset stitches, including several buttonhole designs, and stitch width and length can be used as preset or adjusted to create special effects.

A higher-specification computerized machine will have hundreds of preset stitches, as well as extra functions, such as the ability to create and memorize a stitch sequence.

THINGS TO CONSIDER

illustration Be realistic about how many of the stitches/functions you will use – spend money on a better-quality machine rather than hundreds of stitches you won’t need.

illustration Check the clarity of the LCD screen – are diagrams sharp and is the text easy to read?

illustration If the sewing machine is designed to connect to a computer, make sure you have a compatible model.

illustration If there is a possibility that you will want to add further stitches at a later date, make sure the machine has the facility to do this.

EMBROIDERY MACHINE

These are designed mainly for embroidery, although some models have general sewing functions too. The entry-level machines generally stitch all the parts of the embroidery design that are in one color and then stop until the next color thread is threaded onto the machine. Some of the more expensive machines will switch automatically between several different color threads which are threaded up at the start. As well as offering a range of embroidery stitches, motifs and borders are also included, and new designs can often be purchased and added as required. It may also be possible to create your own designs using design software on a computer; and, with some models, designs can be edited on screen before they are stitched.

A top-of-the-range multifunctional embroidery machine will offer extra functions, such as being able to plan out large stitch sequences and the ability to embroider or quilt across a large area in sections without a visible join.

If you are investing in a basic machine solely for embroidery, it will save you time to choose one that can be threaded with all the colors needed before you start and that changes between colors automatically.

THINGS TO CONSIDER

illustration If you want to stitch large motifs, check the maximum embroidery area the machine can handle.

illustration For embroidery with large blocks of color, a machine that can take cones of thread rather than spools will need rethreading less often.

illustration If the machine uses many colors simultaneously, an automatic threading feature will save time.

illustration Some models allow you to rotate, mirror and enlarge designs. Decide how much flexibility you need to alter the patterns provided.

illustration If you want to use computer design software, check it is compatible to the model you choose.

illustration If you are likely to stitch large areas of complex embroidery regularly, check the stitch speed – 650 stitches a minute is reasonably fast, 1,000 stitches a minute will save more time.

illustration A combination embroidery/sewing machine is more compact than having two separate machines, so, if space is an issue, it may be sensible to buy an embroidery machine that has general sewing functions too.

SERGER

A serger or overlock sewing machine can stitch a seam, trim, and finish the edge all in