JEW STREET MATTANCHERRY

The blue tiled Cochin Synagogue No two tiles are identical. Tiles from Canton covered the walls and
ceiling of the little Synagogue. Legends had begun stick to them. Some said that if you explored for long
enough your own story in one of the blue-and-white squares, the pictures on the tiles could change,
were changing generation by generation to tell the story of the Cochin Jews. Still others were convinced
that the tiles were prophecies, the keys to whose meaning had been lost with the passing years
--- Salman Rushdie, The Moors Last Sigh

The words exactly convey idea about the ethnicity of the Jew town, Mattancherry, the small coastal town
located on the western part of the corporation of Kochi which is in close proximity to the present
commercial hub of Kerala, Eranakulam (also known as Eda Kochi) and the Jewish Synagogue, which
becomes the heart of this historic settlement. The paths leading up to the Synagogue transports you into
another world. A tourist targeted experience of course, with its quaint antique shops housing everything
from priceless treasures and pretty baubles to nostalgia ridden spices. But as you walk through the
winding lanes, past the captivating window displays and ignore the empathetic sales pitch of every store
appointed lurer on the street and observe more closely, you will find a cultural encounter between the
traditional Kerala Architecture and the Colonial Style.
Amidst the sea of Kashmiri vendors selling the India experience in souvenirs, we find them, the Cochin
Jews. The subtle difference in their voices and the intonations of their words, the downward slope of
their sharp nose, the tell-tale signs of anthropological features are all different from the native Keralites.
The Jews have been a part of Kochis landscape for centuries now. At present, only nine families are left
behind, their cultural flavors and legacies seem to have infused in the very air that hangs over
Mattancherry.
Mattancherry town was a bustling centre of trade, particularly spices and hence was once the political
and economical capital of the state. Its history dates back to the 13 th century when invasions from
across the sea were frequent and invaders left ineradicable marks on the landscape, culture, art and
social history of the place and the people. Thus this heritage city has unique and strong linkages that
play a crucial role in communicating the diverse social fabric, vernacular layout and architectural
footprint.
Results of urbanization and due to the lack of conservational values, the town is facing a state of urban
decay. The history of the place is a result due to spice trade and the power of the colonial architectural
spaces in the area provide lasting images and a spectacular urban layout. The colonial buildings of

Mattancherry provide in numerable prospects for adaptive re-use. Due to population sprawls and
modern pressure, spaces are tightly packed and the existing ideologies especially in the architecture of
the township are being tainted. This zone thus needs immediate concentration as its physical
composition and traditional fabric in its structures are in a state of afflict.

Mattancherry has greeted every migrant settlement that came with warmth
and provided them with opportunities to thrive soundly. The generosity of the earlier kings of Kochi,
aided many communities like that of Jews, Konkanis, Gujaratis, Jains and Marathis who made the town
their home. To this day, Mattancherry thrives with people of various languages and ethnic identities.
Churches, agraharams, mosques, temples and a synagogue co-exist in the area, along with colonial
structures from previous eras, pointing to a colorful past and a harmonious and vibrant present.

THE JEWS SETTLEMENT IN MATTANCHERRY, WHAT HISTORY SAYS..

The Jews are said to have migrated to Mattancherry from Cranganore about the year 1565A.D, to
escape persecution by the Portuguese. The Raja of Kochi received them and provided sites by the side
of the palace for constructing their synagogue.
Jewish history in Kerala dates back to 68 AD. Many Jews are believed to have migrated due to the
Roman attack on the tabernacle in Jerusalem. Jews also came to Kerala to establish extensive trade
relations between the Malabar Coast and the Middle East during the time of King Solomon.
Various groups within the same community existed. The Jews of Kochi comprise the Black Jews, the
White Jews and the Meshuhrarim.
By the 17th century, the Jews set up synagogues in Mattancherry, Eranakulam, Paravoor, Mala,
Chendamangalam and Angamaly. They also built many mansions and buildings in Jew Town, most of
them having been converted to heritage hotels and offices.
REASONS FOR MIGRATION

The first settlement of the Cochini Jews, as they were known as along with the the tag Malabari Jews,
wasnt in Cochin but a little north from Cochin in the town of Kudungallur. They are the second Jewish
community in India after the Bene Israels who had initially settled in the Konkan coast in West
Maharashtra. However, what is clear is that Cochini Jews werent a single emigration.
At different times Jews arrived and settled in south India at Kudungallur. According to one version the
first forefathers of the Cochini Jews arrived in Mattancherry during the King Solomons period who had
commercial business with the kingdom. Other version claims that the Cochini Jews are from the Lost
Tribes. Another version claims that the Cochini Jews arrived in Mattancherry after they were exiled from
Land of Israel by Nebuchadnezzar. Later on in the history Jews from Spain, arrived in Mattancherry. The

Spanish Jews lived separately from the veteran Jews and considered them as Indian proselytes to
Judaism. The locals take pride in the fact that the kingdoms of Cochin were world famous and
merchants from around the world frequently visited Mattancherry since the times of King Solomon and
later on Romans, Greeks, Arabs, Chinese and others. Among the merchants who arrived in
Mattancherry and Fort Kochi were many Jewish merchants and some of them stayed back. The main
center of the Jewish community initially in Kerala was at Kudungallur and later subsequent to a major
flood moved to Mattancherry.
The Jewish merchants were influential community in their state and outside their state and were main
reason for the prosperity in their kingdom. As a gratitude for their contribution to the Cochin kingdom,
princely rights (written on copper plates and therefore called Copper Plates) were given to them in 379
A. D.
The Cochini Jews are divided into 3 groups, the biggest being "Meyuhassim" follows by "Pardesi"and
"Meshuhararim"
EVOLUTION, SETTLEMENT PATTERN
The Jewish principality survived till the 16th century A. D. In 1524 the Jews were attacked by Moorish
Arabs because of the monopoly Jewish merchants had in some commodities. The Jews who were a
principality with no real army deserted their principality and asked for shelter from the king of Cochin.
The king received them in his kingdom and established the Jewish community of Cochin. The area
where they lived and did business is even today called Jew Town.

Jewish settlement layout

entry facade

Their residential buildings resemble the Kerala type in their external appearance; nevertheless they are
of a different plan concept. The ground floor rooms are used as shops or warehouses and the living
Fig 55: Antique shops

rooms are planned on the first floor. The frontage of the building about the streets and the sides are
continuous with adjoining buildings in the pattern of the row houses.

Jewish street

THE JEWISH SYNAGOGUE

An important historic monument of the Jew town is the Synagogue. The complex has four buildings. It
was built adjacent to the Mattancherry Palace in the land given to the community by the Raja of Kochi,
Rama Varma. The Mattancherry Palace temple and the Mattancherry synagogue share a common wall.
It is a simple tall structure with a sloping tile roof but it has a rich interior with hand painted tiles from
Canton, China and ancient chandeliers from Europe. This religious structure built for worship according
to Judaism stands in contrast with the temples of Hindus. Jewish community however did not influence
the architecture of Kerala. There is no set blueprint for synagogues and the architectural shapes and
interior designs of synagogues vary greatly. As is customary for Orthodox Jews, the Synagogue has
separate seating sections for men and women.
The Cochini Jews knew all of the Jewish traditions and preserved most of the Jewish traditions. They
were particularly strict of Passover and didnt even allow the non-Jews to touch the cooking utensils
during this period.

Jewish street and synagogue

THE PRESENT STATE

Now, Jew town, once the home to Jewish traders, has become an antique center. Aged go downs are
packed with old furniture, building parts (including granite columns, wood carved gable ends and doors),
religious artifacts (Hindu, Jewish and Christian), and a dizzying array of lamps, statues, photographs,
jewellery and household containers.
Numerically the Cochini Jews at their height were 30,000 and that was in the 1940s. Today they count
only 8 from 5 Jewish families, in Mattancherry, and less than 50 in the whole of Kerala.