Tutorial: How to
create a hand rolled
hem
November 9th, 2008 –
by Sarai
Hand rolled hems are so
lovely, and with a little
practice and a few
tricks, quite easy to do
(if a bit time
consuming).
Begin by machine
stitching 1/4″ from
the edge along the
entire edge.
Press the stitching
flat.
Thread a hand
sewing needle with
matching thread. For a
delicate fabric such
as this silk charmeuse, use a small needle with a narrow eye to minimize the visibility of holes in your
fabric.
Now find something
you can use as a weight.
This is so you can pull
the fabric taut as you
sew. I’ve read one
recommendation to use
a fabric-covered brick,
but this craft supply
caddy worked just as
well. Books would also
be fine.
Trim close to the
stitching as you go,
trimming about six
inches at a time.
Trimming only a bit at a
time will minimize
raveling.
Try to get very close to
the stitches.
Anchor your thread at
the edge of the fabric by
creating a few
backstitches there.
Pulling the fabric taut, hold the fabric edge between your thumb and forefinger, and roll toward you.
Roll it until the machine stitching is hidden within the roll.
Use a slipstitch to stitch the hem. To do this, bring the needle out through the folded hem. Now create a
tiny stitch between the folded edge and the garment fabric, catching only a few threads of the garment.
Slip the needle through the fold for 1/4″ and back out, as shown in the above photo. Alternate the tiny
stitch with the 1/4″.
Continue until edges are completely hemmed.
Do not press this seam flat when you’re done. You want it to have a nice soft roll to it.
Sarai says:
Re the rolled hem, I have much better results keeping the edge being hemmed under tension — it creates
a nice, straight rolled hem. I put an edge under my sewing machine needle & lower the presser foot.
(Together they act as a third hand.) Then, pull the edge taut and sew, by hand, while the edge is taut,
sewing away from the needle. As the sewn edge gets longer, re-position the needle/presser foot to keep
about a 12″-18″ area being hemmed. I hope this isn’t too confusing! In your photo above, for a right-
handed person, I’d have the right-hand edge secured under the needle & presser foot, then hold the edge
taut with my left hand as I sewed with my right hand.