A Village to Village Guide to
Hiking The
Camino
de santiago
Camino Francs: St. Jean - Santiago - Finisterre
Anna Dintaman David Landis
Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com
HIKING THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO
Contents
Camino Elevation Profile Camino Route Network Pilgrims on the Way Pilgrimage to Santiago
Pilgrimage...............................................12 St. James in Spain.....................................13 Christians, Muslims & Jews.....................14 Santiago, Rome & Jerusalem....................15 The Modern Camino Resurgence............20 Pilgrim Practicalities, Passports................21 When to Go & Time Necessary...............22 Visas & Entry..........................................22 Albergues (Pilgrim Hostels).....................23 Hotels, Hostels, Pensiones.......................24 Camping...............................................25 Eating......................................................25 Meals, Restaurants, & Supermarkets......25 Vegetarian, Vegan & Celiac Options......27
2 4 10 12
Early Medieval Pilgrims...........................15 Pilgrimage Themes...................................18 Sacred Travel: Making Your Trip a Pilgrimage..............................................19
Travel on the Camino
20
Transportation.........................................27 Money, Costs & Budgeting......................28 Phones & Internet...................................28 Post Offices..............................................29 Luggage Transfer & Tours........................30 Bathrooms...............................................30 Medical Care...........................................30 Safety Issues.............................................31
Preparing to Hike the Camino
Packing for the Camino...........................32 Backpacks..............................................32 Footwear................................................32 Sleeping Bags.........................................33 Clothing................................................33 Packing List & Sample First Aid Kit........34 Water, Food and Resupply.......................36
32
Water Potability & Refill.......................36 Dehydration & Heat-related Illness.......36 Fitness & Training...................................36 Blister Prevention & Foot Care................37 Route Finding,Trail Markings, Maps & GPS..................................................38 Daily Stages & Regional Sections.............39
Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com
The Camino Francs and Camino Finisterre
Basque Country & Navarra, 162.9km 1: St. Jean to Roncesvalles, 24.7km......42 2: Roncesvalles to Zubiri, 22.3km........56 3: Zubiri to Pamplona, 21.1km...........62 4: Pamplona to Puente la Reina, 23.8km...........................................72 5: Puente la Reina to Estella, 21.8km...82 6: Estella to Los Arcos, 21.6km............90 7: Los Arcos to Logroo, 27.6km.........96 La Rioja & Castilla y Len, 123.4km 8: Logroo to Njera, 29.6km...........104 9: Njera to Santo Domingo, 20.9km.110 10: Santo Domingo to Belorado, 22.9km.......................................116 11: Belorado to Ags, 27.7km...........122 12: Ags to Burgos, 22.3km..............128 Meseta, 231.9km 13: Burgos to Hontanas, 31.4km......138 14: Hontanas to Boadilla, 28.5km....146 15: Boadilla to Carrin, 24.5km.......154 16: Carrin to Terradillos, 26.6km....160 17: Terradillos to Calzadilla, 26.4km.164 18: Calzadilla to Mansilla, 23.6km....172 19: Mansilla to Len, 17.9km...........176
40
20: Len to Villar de Mazarife, 21.5km..184 21: V/de Mazarife to Astorga, 31.5km...190 Cantabrian Mtns. & El Bierzo, 100.9km 22: Astorga to Foncebadn, 25.9km......200 23: Foncebadn to Ponferrada, 27.1km.206 24: Ponferrada to Villafranca, 24.2km...214 25: Villafranca to La Faba, 23.7km........220 Galicia, 159.6km 26: La Faba to Triacastela, 25.7km.........228 27: Triacastela to Barbadelo, 23.0km.....236 28: Barbadelo to Hospital Alta da Cruz, 29.5km............................................244 29: Hospital Alta da Cruz to Melide, 28.4km............................................250 30: Melida to Arca, 33.0km...................258 31: Arca to Santiago, 20.0km................264 Camino Finisterre, 86.6km 32: Santiago to Negreira, 21.9km..........280 33: Negreira to Olveiroa, 33.3km..........284 34: Olveiroa to Finisterre, 31.4km.........288 34A: Olveiroa to Muxa, 31.6km...........300 35: Finisterre to Muxa, 28.0km............304
Appendices and Quick Reference Charts
Historical Timeline of Spain..................310 Spanish Phrasebook...............................312
310
Suggested Reading & Web Index...........316
Acknowledgements About the Authors Legend
318 319 320
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HIKING THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO
HONTANAS TO BOADILLA DEL CAMINO
28.5km
(17.7mi)
6-8 Hours Difficulty: 32%, 9.0km 68%, 19.5km
A Albergues: San Antn 5.6km Castrojeriz 9.4km San Nicols 18.3km Itero 20.3km Boadilla 28.5km Frmista 34.3km
Approaching Castrojeriz
Visit the enigmatic ruins of San Antn and the medieval castle of Castrojeriz, sleep in a church in San Nicols or go for a swim in Boadilla.
Most of this day is on pleasant dirt tracks with two towns offering pilgrim services. The hill after Castrojeriz is especially steep (both up and down) so be sure to reserve energy and take plenty of water for this shadeless section. After San Nicols, the path crosses from Burgos province into Palencia. Note that Boadilla does not have a shop, so bring any supplies you may need for an overnight there.
2000m 1500m
lar es
Hontanas
riz nA nt n
AH
A
Boadilla del Camino
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AH
Ca s A tro H je
Mo ste
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5.5
1000m 500m 0m
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8.9
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8.2
25 28.5
Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com
Boadilla del Camino
Yudego
Itero de la Vega
Villasandino
Putzu
2
La Mochila
Municipal
Lantadilla
1 Municipal
3
Villasilos
Puente del Fitero
Villaveta
Santa Mara
rilla
Rollo de Justicia
3 En el Camino
Od
P-432
100m
Ro
BU-404
100m
Piedad
Ro Pisuerga
Hontanas
AH
Requena de Campos Castrillo B U Matajudos -400 Tabanera
0.0 4.0
arch
Itero de la Vega AH
18% grade!
Itero del Castillo A
12.8
Roman Road shelter
Castrojeriz 11.3
9.4
A Convento de San Antn A H
BU
5.6
22.5 20.3
Od
Al Mo to de ste lar es
ncia
A San Nicols
Ro
BU
-40
Fuente al Pioja
rilla
18.3
16.8
Pisuega canal
28.5
Av. Colegiata
Enter Pa le
Hinestrosa
-40
Santa Mara del Manzano
c/San And
Villaquirn de la Puebla
1
Camping Camino de Santiago El Manzano
AH
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. Villa
Ctra
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Ctr a. V illa
Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com
5
rs
Castrojeriz Melgar
de Yuso
c/R
Pedrosa Castillo de del Principe San Esteban
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a. M Ctr
Boadilla del Camino
San Juan San Juan 4 La Posada 7
Ctr a. M elg ar de
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8
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HONTANAS TO BOADILLA DEL CAMINO
elg
ar am enta Villodre l Fern
Ctra. Villadiego
de
Fern
am
enta
2 San Esteban
3 Casa Nostra
l ea c/R
Puerta del Monte
2 km
Ctra. Hontanas
14
Santoyo
100m
Los Balbases
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HIKING THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO
0.0 Leave Hontanas on the main road, continuing onto a dirt path (hot weather alternative is to walk the shaded paved road). The path rejoins the road (4.0km), and continues to the ruins of the Convento de San Antn. Walk around to the back of the convent and peek in if the door is open.
5.6 San Antn church complex was started by the Order of St. Anthony, a 11th-century order dedi5.6 Convento de San Antn A cated to the 3rd-century Egyptian A Hospital de Peregrinos de San Antn (priv, hermit whose relics it held. A man 12, don): , May to Sept , in ruins of brought his daughter to the relics convent, communal meals by candlelight, no and she was healed of a particularly electricity or hot water, basic, special experience pernicious disease reminiscent of leprosy. This disease became known Tau on the bell tower as St. Anthonys Fire, which caused a terrible burning feeling, of Convento de San loss of circulation and eventually gangrene. This disease was in Antn (above) fact likely ergotism, caused by a fungus that grows on rye bread. The order developed a reputation for healing this disease, though serendipitously, pilgrimage was an excellent antidote to the disease as vigorous exercise and plenty of wine helped to overcome it. Notice the niches outside the church as you pass, which used to hold food for the poor. St. Antn is the patron saint of animals, and across Spain people bring their pets to be blessed on his saints day. The church ruins include a high archway over the camino path, and the remains of rosette windows featuring the Tau cross (t-shaped), used as a symbol of the order. An unusual but beloved albergue now exists in the ruins.
Camino marker entering Castrojeriz Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com
HONTANAS TO BOADILLA DEL CAMINO
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Colorful flowers in The trail continues on the paved road right through the Arch of Castrojeriz San Antn and follows a pleasant quiet shaded road to Castrojeriz (9.4km), easily identifiable with its imposing castle ruins on the hill 9.4 Castrojeriz A H above. The trail winds through this Pop. 873, Latin: Castrum Sigerici Castle of (King) classic medieval city, which seems to be Sigerici, Plaza Mayor, 3, 947-377001 perpetually on siesta with hardly a soul 1. A Camping Camino de Santiago (priv, 35, out on the street. W D @
9.4 Castrojeriz occupies a perfect position for defense along the steep mesa topped by the Castillo de San Esteban. The Romans used the castle, said to be founded by Julius Caesar, to protect the roads to Galicias lucrative gold mines. The city changed hands frequently until coming under Christian rule in the 10th century. The charter for the city was progressive for its daythe punishment for killing a Jew was the same as for killing a Christian.
6): , c/Virgen del Manzano, 947-377255 , Mar 15-Nov 15 2. A San Esteban (muni, 30, don w/ ): , Plaza Mayor, 947-377001 , 12:30pm, all year, historic building using solar energy 3. A Casa Nostra (priv, 26, 6.50): K W D @ , c/Real de Oriente 52 , 11am Feb-Dec 4. A San Juan (muni, 28, don): c/Cordn, 947-377400 , Apr-Oct, basic facilities 5. H El Manzano (dbl 35): , c/Colegiata, 620-782768 6. H Puerta del Monte (dbl 54): , Plaza Puerta del Monte, 947-378647 7. H La Posada/Mesn de Castrojeriz (dbl 33-58): , c/Cordn 1, 947-377400 8. H La Cachava (dbl 72): , 947-378547
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HIKING THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO
Franks and Jews settled in the town, which became a way station on the pilgrimage road with five churches and seven pilgrim hospitals along the long road through the city. Dont miss the impressive 13th-century Gothic Iglesia de Santa Mara del Manzano. Legend has it that Mary appeared to St. James from an apple tree and he was so startled that his horse reared up and came down heavily, leaving hoofprints in the stone outside the entrance. On the way through town, pass the 16th-century Iglesia de Santo Domingonote the ominous carved skulls along the wall with the message O Mors (Latin: Oh death). The 13thcentury Iglesia de San Juan de los Caballeros features an ornate Mudjar ceiling. The castle looming above Castrojeriz goes back to pre-Roman times, used and built upon by the Romans, Visigoths, Moors and Christians. The view is well worth the climb, but probably only practical if you are staying the night in town. Leaving Castrojeriz, cross highways BU-404 and BU-400 and continue straight on a gravel path that joins a restored Roman road before passing over a marshy area on a wooden bridge over the Ro Odrilla (11.3km). Thousands of tons of stone were brought here to create a Roman causeway through the swampy Odrilla Valley for transporting gold and other minerals. The remains of Roman mines are still visible to the R, as well as a seam of mica running up the hill. The path climbs steeply up to the Alto de Mostelares (12.8km). At the top is a small shelter for shade. The downhill has been paved in cement and reaches a grade of 18%; proceed with caution. The path continues as gravel through more shadeless wheat fields.
Iglesia de Santa Mara del Manzano just before Castrojeriz
Iglesia de Santa Mara del Manzano ( Jun 15- Sep 30, 10am-2pm, 947-377001)
Castrojeriz Late May: Garlic festival
Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com
HONTANAS TO BOADILLA DEL CAMINO
16.8 Fuente al Pioja +1.0 Itero del Castillo A Pop. 105 Relief comes at Fuente al Pioja (the A Municipal (1.0km off-route, 7, 5): Fleas fountain) where local fellows Plaza del Ayuntamiento, 608-977477, regularly offer coffee, fruit and other all year, ask for key in Bar El Castillo snacks along a shady picnic area. A natural spring offers untreated water, though locals say it is safe to drink. Follow a paved road and turn L onto a dirt path, with Itero del Castillo visible amongst the trees in the valley off route. 18.3 San Nicols Chapel Pass the friendly San Nicols chapel and albergue, who practice footwashing for pilgrims that stay overnight. Clean restrooms are behind the chapel in the yellow modern building. 18.3 San Nicols Chapel A
14
San Nicols (assoc, 12, don): , June-Sept, to the L before the bridge, communal meals, 13th-c. church restored and run by an Italian Confraternity, no electricity [except in WC/shower house in back], ritual of foot washing
Dawn view near Castrojeriz
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HIKING THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO
A cyclist passes through wheatfields before Boadilla
After San Nicols cross over the Ro Pisuerga (18.5km) on a paved bridge, turning R past a picnic area and welcome sign to Palencia (river is the border between Burgos and Palencia provinces). A pilgrim bridge was first commissioned here in the 11th century by Alfonso VI to unify the territories of Castile and Len. The Codex Calixtinus provided ambiguous information about Tierra de Campos, the territory you are entering. It is full of royal treasure, of gold and silver, fabrics and the strongest horses, and flush with bread, wine, fish, milk and honey. It is however lacking in firewood and the people are evil and vicious. 20.3 Itero de Vega: Reaching the outskirts of town, the road becomes paved. To the L is a the 13thcentury Ermita de la Piedad, with a picnic area and water. Continue through town and leave via a wide dirt road. Cross the Pisuega canal (22.5km) on a small bridge. Arrive to Boadilla del Camino after a long desolate road over a gentle hill on a mesa.
Itero de Vega Aug: Itero Rock heavy metal festival
Pop. 177, Spanish: boundary of the meadow 1. A Municipal ( 12, 5): K , Plaza de las Iglesias, 605-034347, all year 2. A La Mochila (priv, 20, 6-8): W D @ , c/Santa Ana 3, 979-151781, all year 3. H Puente de Fitero (sng 28, dbl 29): @ , c/Santa Maria 3, 979-151822
20.3 Itero de Vega A H
10
Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com
HONTANAS TO BOADILLA DEL CAMINO
28.5 Boadilla del Camino is built in a circular plan, suggesting that it was fortified in medieval times. The Gothic Rollo de la Justicia outside of the Iglesia de Santa Mara de la Asuncin symbolizes the independence granted to Boadilla in the 15th century, as they were then permitted to publicly torture and hang their own criminals. At its largest, the town supported a monastery and four churches. The Canal de Castilla begins here, which the camino follows to Frmista. The Canal de Castilla was built from 1753-1859, covering 207km. The canal was used for ships that were pulled by mules on tow paths. Today the canals are used to irrigate agricultural fields.
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28.5 Boadilla del Camino A H Pop. 124, Latin: boava ox. 1. A Putzu (priv, 16, 7): K W @ (free), c/las Bodegas 9, all year, mixed reports 2. A Municipal ( 12, 3): c/Escuelas, 979-810390, very basic 3. A H En el Camino(priv, 48, dm 6, dbl 26-31): W D @ , Plaza el Rollo, 979-810284/619-105168 , Mar-Nov, large green garden with small pool, good pilgrim menu
Rollo de la Justicia in Boadilla del Camino Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com
11
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