Victorian London's Hidden Gardens
Victorian London's Hidden Gardens
Warwick Wroth
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***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CREMORNE AND THE LATER LONDON
GARDENS***
Transcribed from the 1907 Elliot Stock edition by David Price, email
[email protected]. Many thanks to the Royal Borough of Kensington and
Chelsea Libraries for allowing their copy to be consulted in making this
transcription.
CREMORNE
AND THE
LATER LONDON GARDENS
* * * * *
BY
WARWICK WROTH
ASSISTANT-KEEPER OF COINS IN THE BRITISH MUSEUM;
AUTHOR OF
‘THE LONDON PLEASURE-GARDENS OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY’
* * * * *
LONDON
ELLIOT STOCK, 62, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C.
1907
PREFACE
Such places of resort, for the most part, enjoyed no kind of fashionable
vogue; they were frequented (if invidious distinctions must be made) by
the lower middle classes and the ‘lower orders.’ Yet they offer some
curious glimpses of manners and modes of recreation which may be worth
considering. I have endeavoured to describe some twenty of these places,
selecting those which seem, in various ways, to be typical. To the
general reader this selection will be enough—though, I trust, not more
than enough—but the London topographer who turns to the appendix and the
notes will find a quite formidable list of tea-gardens and
tavern-gardens, which, if my aim had been to omit nothing, I could have
described in greater detail.
We have our obvious models on the Continent in the large café, the
beer-garden, and even in the small café. The poor man would not be
‘robbed of his beer,’ nor would the change be quite ‘un-English,’ as the
record of our little tavern gardens will show. Even in London at this
moment there is an (almost solitary) instance of a café-restaurant of
this kind, in Leicester Square.
The one feature common to all these Continental places is the custom of
sitting down at a table; there is no standing at a bar, or the rapid
displacement of one customer by another. The coffee, the liqueur, or the
lager, is not only drained—shall I say, to its dregs?—but is spun out and
husbanded to the utmost, and for an hour or so there is at least the
semblance of the comfort and convenience of a club.
It is too late now to restore the little summer gardens, but it should be
possible to convert our public-houses, not into coffee-palaces, which do
not meet the general need, but into cafés, by which I mean places where
varied drinks, strong or otherwise, would be obtainable, though under
less absurd and demoralizing conditions than at present. Every one
should be made to sit down, should be waited on—by a waitress if we
like—and the great bar itself should be dissolved, except as a counter
for the attendants. There could be cafés both large and small—places
that the London Baedeker would describe as (relatively) ‘expensive,’ and
others to suit the pence of the people. The café might even be musical,
though perhaps a line would be drawn at the _café chantant_. Probably
many small places would not be able to conform to these conditions, and
would have to be closed; but, in view of the diminished competition, the
larger houses could be called upon without hardship to undertake the
necessary reconstruction.
WARWICK WROTH.
1907.
CONTENTS
PAGE
PREFACE v
CREMORNE GARDENS 1
MANOR-HOUSE BATHS AND GARDENS, CHELSEA 25
BATTY’S HIPPODROME AND SOYER’S SYMPOSIUM, KENSINGTON 30
THE HIPPODROME, NOTTING HILL 34
THE ROYAL OAK, BAYSWATER 37
CHALK FARM 39
EEL-PIE (OR SLUICE) HOUSE, HIGHBURY 42
WESTON’S RETREAT, KENTISH TOWN 44
THE MERMAID, HACKNEY 46
THE ROSEMARY BRANCH, HOXTON 48
SIR HUGH MYDDELTON’S HEAD, ISLINGTON 52
THE PANARMONION GARDENS, KING’S CROSS 54
THE EAGLE AND GRECIAN SALOON 57
ALBERT SALOON AND ROYAL STANDARD PLEASURE-GARDENS 68
NEW GLOBE PLEASURE-GROUNDS, MILE END ROAD 70
THE RED HOUSE, BATTERSEA 72
BRUNSWICK GARDENS (OR VAUXHALL PLEASURE-GARDENS), VAUXHALL 77
FLORA GARDENS, CAMBERWELL 79
MONTPELIER TEA-GARDENS, WALWORTH 81
SURREY ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS 83
LIST OF MINOR LONDON GARDENS, NINETEENTH CENTURY 93
INDEX 98
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
WATERSIDE ENTRANCE, CREMORNE _Frontispiece_
By M’Connell, 1858.
THE FIREWORK GALLERY, CREMORNE 17
CREMORNE GARDENS
THE old house by the river had often changed hands, but the new
possessor, who was reputed to be a Baron, somewhat puzzled the quiet
inhabitants of Chelsea. Great oaks and elms surrounded the grounds, but
through the fine iron gates, which were left half open, it was not
difficult—as on this summer morning of 1830—to catch a glimpse of the
owner, engaged, apparently, in the survey and measurement of his estate.
He was a man of over sixty, dressed in a faded military uniform of no
known pattern, but which seemed to have done service in some company of
sharpshooters in the days of Napoleon. In the middle of the lawn was a
table, on which a rifle reposed amid a litter of plans and papers. But
if the Baron had a gun it was not to shoot _you_, but one of the targets
at the far end of the garden, and his successive bull’s-eyes certainly
proclaimed the hand of a master. A little intrusion he did not seem to
mind, and as you advanced he only offered you a prospectus: ‘THE STADIUM,
Cremorne House, Chelsea, established for the tuition and practice of
skilful and manly exercises generally.’ {1}
The subscription was two or three guineas, and the members, under the
Baron’s tuition, could shoot, box and fence, and practise ‘manly
exercises generally’ in his beautiful grounds. He also established, so
to speak, a ‘Ladies’ Links,’ with its clubroom, ‘which Gentlemen cannot
enter,’ unless (such is his quaint proviso) ‘by consent of the Ladies
occupying such.’ In 1834 George Cruikshank made a design for a ‘Chelsea
Stadium Shield,’ which was quite Homeric in its form, and showed every
conceivable kind of sport and exercise, including pole-jumping and golf.
{2d}
The Stadium flourished, or, rather, lingered on, till 1843, but only with
the adventitious aid of occasional galas and balloon displays that
already foreshadowed Cremorne. {3}
His connexion with Cremorne was brief, and his capital inadequate. In
1843 he replaced the timid prospectus of De Berenger by flaming bills
announcing a ‘Thousand Guineas Fête,’ which during three days (July 31,
August 1 and 2), at one shilling admission, provided, among other
diversions, a mock tournament, a pony-race, a performance by Tom Matthews
the clown, and a _pas de deux_ by T. Ireland and Fanny Matthews.
In 1846 (or more probably a few years later) Cremorne was purchased by
Thomas Bartlett Simpson, who guided its destinies till the beginning of
the sixties. {5} Simpson had been head-waiter at the Albion, a
well-known theatrical tavern that stood opposite Drury Lane Theatre in
Russell Street, and was afterwards its lessee. He was a shrewd man of
business, and, according to George Augustus Sala, ‘a kindly and generous
gentleman.’ Sala, who knew the gardens well from about 1850, tells us
that, unlike the Vauxhall of the time, Cremorne was a real pleasaunce
surrounded by magnificent trees, with well-kept lawns and lovely flowers,
and melodious singing-birds. Nothing was pleasanter in the summer-time
than to saunter in at midday or in the early afternoon (for the gardens
were not properly open till three or five), and find Mr. Simpson’s
daughters there with their work-baskets—to say nothing of the pretty
barmaids employed by the kindly and generous gentleman, who were busy, in
their cotton frocks, arranging the bars, and paying, it is implied, no
ordinary attention to Mr. G. A. Sala.
Five thousand pounds was spent in preparing for the opening of 1846, and
a banqueting-hall and theatre were constructed, as well as some
‘delightful lavender bowers’ for the accommodation of the 1,500 persons
who were likely to need a bowery seclusion. The gardens were rapidly
getting into shape, and we can now survey them almost as they appeared
till their close in 1877.
They were about twelve acres, to which must be added, from 1850, the
grounds of Ashburnham House on the west, in which flower-shows and other
exhibitions were held. Cremorne lay between the river and the King’s
Road, Chelsea. The grand entrance was in the King’s Road, where a big
star illuminated the pay-box. On a summer evening, if you did not mind
the slow progress of the threepenny steamer from the City to Cremorne
Pier, you entered by the river gate at the south-east corner of the
gardens. The grounds were well lit, but on entering there was not that
sudden blaze of light that was the visitor’s great sensation when he came
through the dark pay-entrance into the garden of Vauxhall. The most
conspicuous feature was the orchestra to the south-west of the gardens—a
‘monster pagoda,’ brilliantly lighted with hundreds of coloured lamps,
and surrounded by a circular platform, prepared, it is said, to
accommodate 4,000 dancers. Here the dancing took place from 8.30 till 11
or later. There was always a dignified master of the ceremonies (in 1846
Flexmore the pantomimist), but little introduction was required in that
easygoing place. There was a good band of fifty, for some years under
Laurent, of the Adelaide Gallery Casino in the Strand. {7} In the early
part of the evening—at any rate, in the seventies—the dancing was left to
the shop-girls and their friends: the gilded youth and the ‘smart’ female
set of Cremorne began their waltzing later on, after the fireworks.
On the west side was the circus; the theatre was in the south of the
garden. A smaller theatre, north of the lawn, was appropriated to a
troupe of marionettes, introduced by Simpson in 1852. They were great
favourites of the public and of the proprietor, who liked ‘the little
beggars who never came to the treasury on Saturday.’ Besides this, there
was a maze and (as Vauxhall had its hermit) a gipsy’s tent and a
‘double-sighted youth.’ The admission to the gardens was one shilling,
and the season tickets cost one guinea or two guineas.
The Italian Salamander, ‘Cristoforo Buono Core,’ was, later on, in 1858,
another attraction of a fiery kind. Like Chabert, the more famous
Salamander of 1826, {8a} this man entered a burning furnace with apparent
unconcern, and (as he informed an inquisitive spectator) ‘titt as fell as
he cott,’ though the performance made him very ‘dursty.’
In the balloon ascents of Cremorne (as already remarked) there was often
a dangerous element, usually a parachute descent. Without dwelling on
the ascents of balloonists like Lieutenant Gale and the celebrated
Charles Green, who made his three hundredth and sixty-fifth voyage (of
course including his ascents at Vauxhall and many other places) on August
2, 1847, we can notice only the Bouthellier, Poitevin, and Latour
performances.
In September of the same year (1852), Madame Poitevin, ‘in the character
of Europa,’ ascended from Cremorne on the back of a heifer which was
attached to her balloon. This was nothing new to _her_ or to the
sight-seers of Paris, where she and her husband had made hundreds of
ascents on the backs of horses, and even ‘a great many ascents with a
bull.’ A pony ascent had been made by Green at Vauxhall in 1850, {9b}
but the English magistrates drew the line at a heifer, and Simpson and
his Europa were fined at the Ilford Sessions on September 7, 1852, for
cruelty to animals.
The programme of the theatre and the concert-room was less exciting. The
Cremorne theatricals never aimed much higher than the farce and the
vaudeville, but there were some good ballets, in which (_circa_
1847–1851) the Deulins took part. Under Simpson some of the old
favourite comic singers were engaged—Sam Cowell in 1846, Robert Glindon
in 1847 and 1850. {10b} Herr Von Joel, who appeared in 1848, was ‘a
peculiar old German’ {10c} who had made a sensation—which became a
bore—at Vauxhall Gardens. His business was to appear at unexpected
moments and in unsuspected parts of the gardens, to yodel. Swiss
ditties, and to give imitations, on his walking-stick, of birds and
feathered fowl. In his later days he was a familiar figure at Evans’s
Supper-Rooms, where he used to retail dubious cigars, and dispose of
tickets for benefits which never came off. J. W. Sharp (‘Jack Sharp’),
who sang at Cremorne in 1850, was at one time the rage of the town, and
his comic songs were in demand at Vauxhall and at such places as Evans’s
and the Mogul in Drury Lane. But he took to dissipated ways, lost his
engagements, and died in the Dover Workhouse at the age of thirty-eight.
{10d}
In 1857 the Chelsea Vestry had presented the first of many annual
petitions against the renewal of the licence, setting forth the
inconvenience of the late hours of Cremorne, the immoral character of its
female frequenters, and its detrimental influence generally on the morals
(and house property) of the neighbourhood. Such petitions, like the
annual protests against old Bartholomew Fair, were a long time in taking
effect, but, as Cremorne grew older, the rowdy and wanton element
certainly increased, and finally, as we shall see, not undeservedly
brought about its downfall. In spite of all this, we know of more than
one respected paterfamilias who has still somewhere a Cremorne programme
or two, the relic of some pleasant and doubtless romantic evening in the
sixties or seventies, when he imagined himself to be seeing something—if
not too much—of ‘real life’ in London. In the sixties some charming
little folding programmes were issued, printed in colour, and presenting
on every page a view of Cremorne. Portions of the programme were
ingeniously cut out, so that on the front page there was a view up the
long walk, flanked by its trees and lamp-bearing goddesses, right to the
great fountain. Another page depicted the supper-table spread with its
choice viands and ‘rarest vintages,’ and on another was a view of the
circus, the supper-boxes, and the promenade enlivened by a peripatetic
band—all for a shilling admission, and the patron, Her Majesty the Queen.
{12a}
Time has cast a veil over the orgiastic features of Cremorne, and though
this is just as well, some of its old frequenters may cherish the feeling
that there are no ‘intrepid aeronauts’ now, no fireworks like Duffell’s,
no gaily-lighted tiers of supper-boxes, and no waltzing on circular
platforms with beauteous, if little known, damsels.
Simpson retired in 1861, {12b} and on July 30 there was a new manager,
Edward Tyrrell Smith. {12c} He has been denied, somehow, a place in the
great _Dictionary of National Biography_, but one cannot turn over a
programme of London amusements in the fifties or sixties without
encountering the name of E. T. Smith—an interesting man, of boundless
energy and resource, and a lucky, if wayward, speculator, who was
everything by turns and nothing long. He was the son of Admiral E. T.
Smith, but his aspirations were not lofty, for he began life—he was born
in 1804—as a Robin Redbreast, one of the old red-waistcoated Bow Street
runners. When the new police force was established Smith was too young
for superannuation, so he was made an inspector. But he soon tired of
this, and after trying his hand as a sheriff’s bailiff or auctioneer,
went into the wine trade. In 1850 we find him landlord of a tavern in
Red Lion Street, Holborn, attracting custom by dressing his barmaids in
bloomer costume. From about this date his speculative genius turned to
the management of London theatres. He took the Marylebone, then Drury
Lane, where he made quite a lengthy stay, and even plunged into opera at
Her Majesty’s. One of his eccentricities was to present silver
snuff-boxes and watches to his master-carpenters and property-men, each
presentation taking place on the stage, accompanied by an appropriate
speech. He was lessee of the Lyceum, of the Surrey, of Astley’s (when
Ada Menken appeared as Mazeppa), and he took Highbury Barn for one
season. He also founded the Alhambra in Leicester Square, making short
work, for his purpose, of its instructive predecessor, the Panopticon.
The Scottish tournament was a fiasco, and was carried out under the cover
of umbrellas and great-coats in the intervals of drenching rain which
lasted for three days. The opening day at Cremorne was bright and sunny,
and the procession of 300 made its entrance in imposing style: heralds in
their gaudy tabards, yeomen in Lincoln green, men-at-arms in glittering
armour—a whole _Ivanhoe_ in motion. The tournament King, the Queen of
Beauty, and their suite, were escorted to a tapestried tribune, and their
gorgeous array contrasted strangely with the tall-hatted and
coal-scuttle-bonneted spectators who occupied the seats on every side.
The heralds made the proclamation, and the jousting began. First, there
were trials of skill between knights of different countries all in
armour, and mounted on chargers with emblazoned housings. Some sports,
like tilting at the ring and the quintain, followed, and then came the
grand mêlée between the two companies of knights. Finally, one of the
combatants was unhorsed—_pro forma_—and his antagonist received the prize
of valour from the Queen of Beauty.
Bands of music and facetious clowns, or rather ‘jesters,’ enlivened the
proceedings, which were at first exciting and a fine spectacle, though
they tended to grow monotonous. {16a}
In his last year (1869) Smith exhibited the French ‘captive balloon’ in
the Ashburnham grounds. This balloon was made of linen and indiarubber,
and held thirty people. It was attached by a strong rope worked by an
engine of 200 horse-power, and could be let out, so as to soar ‘in an
aerial voyage over London,’ 2,000 feet. The charge for an ascent was ten
shillings, but a free admission was granted to a female inmate of the
Fulham Workhouse, who chose to celebrate her hundredth birthday by a trip
in the balloon, attended by the matron. It was fortunately not on this
occasion that the captive balloon, after the manner of its kind, escaped!
{16c}
John Baum, who became lessee in 1870, had not the character of his
predecessors, nor a hand strong enough to restrain the vagaries of his
more troublesome clients. But he was by no means incapable as an
entertainment manager and when the gardens were opened they were found to
be much improved, and a new theatre was built. He developed the stage
amusements, and produced some good ballets, such as _Giselle_, in 1870.
In 1875 there was a comic ballet by the Lauri family, and Offenbach’s
_Rose of Auvergne_, with a ballet of 100, was given. Auber’s _Fra
Diavolo_ was presented before a Bank Holiday audience in 1877. {17} The
orchestra was a capable one under Jules Riviere. In 1872 the licence for
dancing, the great attraction of Cremorne, was refused, but in 1874 the
waltzing or, the ‘crystal platform’ was again as lively as ever.
The one great, but melancholy, sensation of Baum’s management was the
episode of ‘Monsieur de Groof, the flying man.’ Vincent de Groof was a
Belgian who had constructed a flying machine on which he made some
ascents with doubtful success in his native land. He came to England in
1874, and with some difficulty persuaded Baum to let him go through his
dangerous performance at Cremorne. Certainly the flying man made a good
advertisement, and on the evening of June 29, 1874, there was a great
concourse in the gardens. The machine was suspended by a rope, 30 feet
long, from the car of Simmons’s ‘Czar’ balloon, and while the tedious
process of inflation was going on the spectators had time to inspect a
flying apparatus strange and wonderful. It was constructed of cane and
waterproof silk, and was made ‘in imitation of the bat’s wing and
peacock’s tail.’ Evidently De Groof, like his inventive predecessor in
_Rasselas_, had considered the structure of all volant animals, and found
‘the folding continuity of the bat’s wing most easily accommodated to the
human form.’ His wings were 37 feet long from tip to tip, and his tail
18 feet long. In the centre was fixed an upright wooden stand about 12
feet high, in which De Groof placed himself, working the wings and tail
by means of three levers. He ascended from Cremorne about eight, and as
the balloon rose seemed like a big bird perched in his net framework. He
was meant to descend in the gardens, but the wind carried the balloon
away to Brandon in Essex, where he made a perilous descent from the
balloon, almost unseen, but apparently without injury. The Cremorne
habitué felt that he was cheated of a sight, and on July 9 the experiment
had to be repeated. At about half-past seven the machine was once more
taken up by Simmons’s balloon, and this time there was no changing of the
venue. The balloon soared to a great height, but for fully half an hour
continued to hover over the gardens. Then the wind bore it rapidly away
in the direction of St. Luke’s Church, Chelsea, till the machine was
perilously near the church tower. No one quite knew what happened at
this moment. Simmons seems to have called out, ‘I must cut you loose,’
and De Groof to have responded ‘Yes, and I can fall in the churchyard.’
Suddenly the rope was severed, the machine, without resistance to the
air, was seen to collapse, and wind round and round in its descent, till
it fell with a heavy thud near the kerbstone in Robert Street. {18} A
great crowd had collected, and De Groof was picked up in a terrible
state, and taken into the Chelsea Infirmary to die. The fate of the
balloon was an anti-climax: it was carried away to Springfield in Essex,
where it came down on the Great Eastern railway-line after a narrow
escape from a passing train. The whole affair caused great excitement in
London, and the details were copied into papers like the _Indian Mirror_.
A sheet-ballad sold in the Chelsea streets drew the obvious morals, and
appealed to the tender-hearted passer-by:
But we are nearing the last days of Cremorne. At no period could the
gardens be described as a place of quiet family resort, and under Smith
in the sixties we begin to hear of rows and cases in the police courts.
In 1863, for instance, there was a ‘riot’ on the night of the Oaks day,
and a number of men, apparently of decent position, stormed and wrecked
one of the bars. Six of them were caught, and fined from £20 to £50
apiece. A scene of this kind was partly the fault of the manager, who
had advertised his gardens as just the pleasure resort for a gentleman
returning from the races. One (undated) story of a Cremorne fracas, told
by G. A. Sala, is rather amusing, and worth repeating nearly in his
words. ‘A gallant Captain and M.P.,’ who was engaged to a young lady of
good position, began to repent of his promise. To get out of it
honourably he could devise no better plan than to disgrace himself at
Cremorne. One night, accordingly, he repaired to the gardens ‘with a few
chosen boon companions,’ who, like himself, imbibed freely of the rare
vintages in the supper-rooms. The moment came when he was in a mood ‘to
break things,’ and his first onslaught was on the glasses and decanters
of a refreshment counter. Then he charged the dancing platform,
frightened the dancers, and scattered the musicians ‘like blossoms before
a March blast.’ They tried to stop him, but he put the waiters _hors de
combat_, and for some time made short work of the police. The next
morning the gallant Captain and M.P. found himself, at the police court,
Westminster, provided with a sentence of fourteen days. From his
dungeon-cell in Holloway he wrote an abject letter to his impending
father-in-law, deploring the degradation he had brought on himself and
his friends, and relinquishing for ever all claims on the beloved
daughter. Next day the governor of the prison handed him a letter from
the same father-in-law, which ran as follows: ‘DEAR JIM,—Sorry to hear
you have got yourself into such a scrape. Never mind; boys will be boys!
Katie and I will call for you in an open carriage on Monday week, and the
marriage will take place on the following morning at St. James’s,
Piccadilly.’
These things were relatively trifles, and it was really not till the
seventies—under Baum—that Cremorne became an impossible place. The
Westminster Police Court was now hardly ever without its drunk or
disorderly case from the gardens. Even the normal evenings at Cremorne
were fairly fertile in incident, but a big crop followed the abnormal
evenings—the night of some great event, the Derby, the Oaks, the return
of the Prince from India, or—a new institution—the Bank Holiday. At such
times extra late hours were always granted, and they were those occasions
when champagne is said to ‘flow like water.’ It was half-past ten,
half-past eleven, twelve, and still the theatres and music-halls were
sending down fresh visitors, and the cabs came rattling down the King’s
high road. The bars and boxes were so many hives of drinking mortals—men
who had lost and men who had won, and the drinking quickly led to an
almost indiscriminate pugnacity. The wretched waiters, even, were
assaulted, though the pugilist thought he amply atoned by a money payment
‘on the spot.’
The efforts of the half-hearted Chelsea Vestry of 1857 were renewed with
more vigour (and with more justification) from 1870 onwards, and they had
a valuable ally in Canon Cromwell, the principal of St. Mark’s Training
College, which stood almost opposite the entrance of Cremorne. One of
the many unedifying illustrated papers of the seventies, the _Day’s
Doings_, portrays the Canon in cap and gown ejecting two flashily dressed
females from the gardens, and he and his docile students for the next six
years are said to have given Mr. Baum a very rough time. This opposition
was not popular, and on one 5th of November the worthy Canon was paraded
on a coster’s barrow in front of Cremorne as a guy. The comic papers
sneered at the petitions ‘signed by all the babies and children under
ten,’ and issued a revised set of Cremorne Regulations. All ladies were
henceforward to have certificates of respectability from the Board of
Guardians, though members of the London School Board were to be admitted
free. No fireworks, dancing, smoking, laughing, or flirting were
allowed, but by an order from the Vestry you could obtain a coffee cobler
or a cocoa cocktail. Ridicule is sometimes a legitimate weapon against
the Puritan, but in this case Canon Cromwell and the Vestry were hardly
in the wrong.
The end came rather suddenly and in a curious way. Towards the close of
1876 there was distributed in Chelsea a pamphlet in verse, entitled _The
Trial of John Fox_, _or Fox John_, _or the Horrors of Cremorne_. It was
signed ‘A. B. Chelsea,’ but the author was soon discovered to be a Mr.
Alfred Brandon, a worthy and evidently courageous man, who had long been
known as minister of the Chelsea Baptist Chapel. By trade Mr. Brandon
was a tailor, and no doubt his coats were better than his poetry, which
is, indeed, sad doggerel. This pamphlet was an indictment of Cremorne as
the ‘nursery of every kind of vice,’ and of its callous money-grubbing
manager John Fox. The jury decide _against_ John Fox:
At this time Baum was greatly in debt, and for the next few months was
too ill to superintend his gardens personally. None the less
preparations were made for the licensing day in October. Petitions were
prepared, and counsel on both sides were engaged. October 5, 1877,
arrived, and the Cremorne case was called on. To the astonishment of
London, Baum’s counsel quietly announced that the lessee had withdrawn
his application, and the licence of Cremorne Gardens lapsed for ever.
John Baum here vanishes from the scene, though we seem to catch a glimpse
of him at the end of the eighties as a waiter at a North London tavern,
discoursing freely to sympathetic customers on the great days when he
owned Cremorne.
The elms and poplars and all the growing timber were then offered,
besides numerous portable bay-trees in boxes and about 20,000 greenhouse
plants. The statuary, over and above the Cupids and Venuses and the
‘females supporting gas-burners,’ included some classic masterpieces like
the Laocöon and the Dying Gladiator. With the disposal of the large
reflecting stars, ‘the stalactite rustic, enclosure of the Gypsey’s
Cave,’ and a couple of balloons, Cremorne was completely stripped.
TOWARDS the end of the thirties there stood in the King’s Road, Chelsea,
between the present Radnor Street and Shawfield Street, a deserted
mansion known as the Manor-House. It was spacious, if not lofty, and had
apparently nothing to do with the two historical manor-houses of Chelsea.
{25a} For some years it had been unoccupied; its windows were broken,
its railings rusty, and weeds luxuriated in its front-garden.
Behind the house there had once been a fine garden and orchard, and
groves of fruit-trees still bore mulberries, apples, and pears, which
were the natural prey of the Chelsea youth. {25b} The mansion had some
reputation as a haunted house, and at nightfall unearthly sounds were
heard by passers-by, which possibly proceeded from the depredators of the
orchard. But one day in the autumn of 1837 some workmen were observed on
the premises, and it became difficult to get access to the orchard.
The place was a good deal advertised in 1838 and 1839, and well puffed in
papers like _The Town_; but it was not a success. A frank critic, who
was well acquainted with the ‘New Vauxhall,’ as the proprietor named it,
says that the company ‘consisted chiefly of local sweethearts,’ who
preferred to treat each other to apples and pears snatched from the
branches rather than expend superfluous cash in shilling goblets of hot
negus. The concerts took place on three evenings in the week, and some
‘grand galas’ and ‘night fêtes’ were announced. On certain days the boys
from the Military School close by promenaded the grounds with their band;
but neither the concerts nor the baths were acceptable, and in 1840 Smith
discontinued the concerts, and built a small theatre on part of the
orchard. ‘The Royal Manor-House Theatre’ could hold an audience of 500
paying 2s. and 1s. The Green Room was the emptied tank of the
swimming-bath. The first lessee was Charles Poole, previously manager of
the Chichester Theatre, and the plays light one-act pieces. Poole soon
got into money difficulties, and Smith made a curious application to
Edward Leman Blanchard, the well-known dramatic critic, for his
assistance. Blanchard was then hardly twenty, but he managed to keep the
theatre open for nearly a year. The company had not been quite
disbanded, and contained good material. Thus, Mr. A. Sidney (afterwards
the well-known actor Alfred Wigan) was ready to sing sentimental songs
between the acts. Signor Plimmeri, a clever posturer and man-monkey, and
Richard Flexmore (later the famous clown) were also available, and the
younger members of the Smith family formed a troupe of four
supernumeraries. Blanchard produced a farce of his own—_Angels and
Lucifers_—which ran for thirty-one representations, and himself appeared
at one entrance as the hero and at another as the comic countryman. The
theatre apparently closed in 1841, {28a} and Smith proceeded in a
businesslike way to build Radnor Street on the grounds, with a
public-house (the Commercial Tavern, 119, King’s Road) at the corner,
which is still standing. {28b}
The Royal Hippodrome was opened in May, 1851, with a French troupe
brought over from the Hippodrome at Paris. The performances generally
took place in the evening, and the lowest price of admission was
sixpence. Two brass bands of a rather blatant character enlivened the
proceedings. Favourite features of the entertainment were a Roman
chariot race and a ‘triumphal race of the Roman Consuls,’ who were
represented by the three brothers Debach, each guiding six horses. Why
Roman Consuls should race is not explained, and probably did not matter.
Another excitement of the evening was the Barbary Race of twelve
unmounted horses, who dashed headlong to the goal with distended nostrils
and eyes of fire. Other attractions were balloon ascents {30} and F.
Debach’s journey on the Arienne Ball up and down a narrow inclined plank.
The Hippodrome closed with the Exhibition, and only lived for one other
season, in 1852. Subsequently, and in the sixties, it was used as a
riding-school. The site lay nearly opposite the broad walk of Kensington
Gardens, between part of Victoria Road and Victoria Walk and the present
Palace Gate. De Vere Gardens mainly occupy the site.
* * * * *
In the early part of 1851 he took Gore House, the famous home of Lady
Blessington at Kensington, and fantastic skill and showy decoration soon
made the old-fashioned stucco-fronted building the wonder of a London as
yet unfamiliar with palatial restaurants. The newspapers and a
prospectus printed on satin paper with green-tinted edges announced the
advent of ‘Soyer’s Universal Symposium,’ a single ticket for which was to
cost a guinea, and a family ticket—your family might consist of
five—three guineas. Every room in the house was provided with a
seductive name: the Blessington Temple of the Muses; the Salle des Noces
de Danae; the glittering Roscaille of Eternal Snow; the Bower of Ariadne;
and the Celestial Hall of Golden Lilies.
The Grand Staircase had its walls painted with a ‘Macédoine of all
Nations,’ a monstrous medley of animals, politicians, and artists, the
_chef d’œuvre_ of George Augustus Sala, who for a time acted as Soyer’s
assistant.
The garden, reached by flights of steps from the back of the house, had
natural beauties of its own—Lady Blessington’s great rose-tree and
Wilberforce’s thick-foliaged trees, Soyer added fountains and statuary, a
grotto of Ondine, a little pavilion of many-hued stalactites with a
crystal roof, and a statue of Hebe dispensing ambrosial liquors through
the shafts of the temple. Here also stood the Baronial Hall, a building
(not unsuggestive of Rosherville) 100 feet long, with a stained-glass
roof. It was hung with pictures by Soyer’s wife (Emma Jones), and with
the more interesting crayon portraits by Count d’Orsay. The American Bar
and the Ethiopian Serenaders were perhaps more suited to Cremorne.
In February, 1852, the place was dismantled, and the Hall and the
Encampment were sold by auction. The Gore estate was purchased the same
year by the Commissioners of the Exhibition, and the grounds in later
years formed part of those of the Royal Horticultural Society. {33}
The Hippodrome was opened on June 3, 1837. The public were admitted for
a shilling, and those who could not enter the carriage enclosure mounted
a convenient hill from which a splendid view of the racing—also of much
adjacent country—could be obtained. No gambling-booths or
drinking-booths were permitted, but iced champagne, or humbler beverages
were to be obtained on this eminence. Lord Chesterfield and Count
d’Orsay were the first stewards, and the Grand Duke of Russia, the Duke
of Cambridge, the Duke of Brunswick, and many noble personages,
condescended to visit this London Epsom, to which gay marquees and
‘splendid equipages’ lent éclat on a race-day.
These races were held for four years, and were duly recorded in _Bell’s
Life_, with the usual details of horse, owner, and jockey. Cups of fifty
and a hundred guineas were offered. The proceedings generally began at
two, and on one occasion lasted till nine.
A good idea of the course can be gained from the accompanying plan,
published in 1841. It will be found that Ladbroke Terrace and Norland
Square roughly define its lower limits. Ladbroke Grove, Lansdown Road,
and Clarendon Road now cut through it northwards. The ‘hill for
pedestrians’ is crowned by St. John’s Church (built 1845) in Lansdown
Crescent and Ladbroke Grove.
Part of the course was preserved as late as 1852 with some rough turf and
a few hedges, at which adventurous lady-riders practised their horses.
[Newspaper notices; _Bell’s Life_, _John Bull_, etc.; plan and view of
the Hippodrome (W.); Walford, _Old and New London_, v., p. 182; Loftie’s
_Kensington_, p. 267 _f._]
IN the twenties this was still a rural inn, with sloping, red-tiled roof
and dormer windows, standing quite alone. {37a} A visitor coming from
Paddington Green passed to it by a quiet field-path—the Bishop’s Walk,
now Bishop’s Road—through a region of pleasant pastures and hedgerow
elms. A weeping ash and the sign of the Boscobel Oak stood on a green in
front of the house, and there were benches for the wayfarer and a
tea-garden.
In 1837, with the advent of the Great Western Railway, all these country
surroundings began to disappear, and the fields were soon cut up for
roads. The house was now brought forward so as to stand nearer the road,
and the tea-gardens were sold for building. {37b} The present Royal Oak
public-house, standing more forward than its predecessor, is 89, Bishop’s
Road and No. 1, Porchester Road.
In the thirties and forties the Bayswater district was full of small
tea-gardens, one of which, the Princess Royal, {38} ‘opposite Black Lion
Lane, now called Queen’s Road,’ may be mentioned. It was kept in the
forties by James Bott, previously of the Archery Tavern, Bayswater. Mr.
Bott had a bowling-green and tea-rooms, an elegant fish-pond well stocked
with gold and silver fish, and ‘an extensive archery ground, 185 feet
long, and wide enough for two sets of targets.’ His advertisements hold
out two special attractions—one that any gentleman fond of archery might
practise there from nine o’clock in the morning till two in the afternoon
for ten shillings a year; the other that the grounds led by the nearest
way to the Kensal Green Cemetery.
CHALK FARM
THIS was a favourite tea-garden from the latter part of the eighteenth
century till the fifties. An inn, originally called the White House, had
long existed near the foot of Primrose Hill, and probably first gained
custom by its proximity to the hill, which (about 1797) is described {39}
as a ‘very fashionable’ Sunday resort of the modern citizens, who usually
‘lead their children there to eat their cakes and partake of a little
country air’—a truly idyllic performance. Chalk Farm had also its more
martial customers, for towards the close of the eighteenth century the
St. Pancras Volunteers used to march thither to fire at a target at the
foot of the hill for a silver cup. The duels, moreover, for which a
field adjoining the inn was notorious began at least as early as 1790,
and lasted till the twenties. As they are hardly to be reckoned among
the amusements of the place, I need not record their painful details.
The famous interrupted duel of Tom Moore and Francis Jeffrey—when ‘Bow
Street myrmidons stood laughing by’—occurred in 1806. Byron treats it as
ludicrous, but the meeting was not without its pathos. ‘What a beautiful
morning it is!’ said Jeffrey, on seeing his opponent. ‘Yes,’ answered
Moore; ‘a morning made for better purposes.’ To which Jeffrey’s only
response was ‘a sort of assenting sigh.’ Another famous duel took place
on February 16, 1821, by moonlight, between John Scott, the editor of the
_London Magazine_, and Mr. Christie. Scott was badly wounded, and was
carried on a shutter to the tavern, where he died in a fortnight. This
was practically the last of the Chalk Farm duels, {40a} and, curiously
enough, it is the _London Magazine_ {40b} that about a year later
furnishes a long and most philosophical account of the tea-drinking at
this very garden. What the writer notices is the _seriousness_ of the
ordinary frequenter of the garden, who drinks and smokes with no approach
to the least flexibility of limb or feature. There are three plain
citizens sitting stolidly in one alcove without uttering a word. In
another box, over a glass of punch, are a prim tradesman and his wife and
a sickly-looking little boy, who wants to play with the other children on
the lawn, but who is not allowed to ‘wenture upon the nasty vet grass.’
The same observer also notes the occasionally successful efforts of the
Cockney sportsmen to shoot wretched sparrows let out of a box at twenty
yards’ distance.
The tavern (the successor of an older building) was pulled down in 1853,
and the present public-house—No. 89, Regent’s Park Road—was built. The
open fields which formerly led from this site to the slopes of Primrose
Hill are now covered by houses at the back and front of the present
building, and the row of tall houses in Primrose Hill Road would
effectively shut out the view, even if the tavern had still preserved its
garden. A water-colour drawing of about 1830 shows Chalk Farm without
any building intervening between itself and its grassy mount. One side
of the tavern is provided with many windows, and a veranda looks towards
the hill, and close by is the flower-garden. At the back of the house
are fields and a road leading to the lower slopes.
Views: Water-colour, _circa_ 1830, showing Primrose Hill and the tavern
(W.); drawing by Matthews, 1834, Crace Cat., p. 671, No. 89; drawing by
T. H. Shepherd, 1853, _ibid._, p. 569; Partington’s _Views of London_,
ii. 181; a view in Dugdale’s _England and Wales_, and water-colour
drawings from this.]
THIS tavern on the New River, between Highbury and Hornsey Wood House,
was well known to Cockney visitors from early in the nineteenth century
till its demolition about 1867. {42}
It was famous for its tea and hot rolls, but still more for its excellent
pies made of eels, which were popularly supposed to be natives of Hugh
Myddelton’s stream, though they came in reality from the coast of
Holland. Unambitious anglers of the Sadler’s Wells type frequented the
river near here, and on popular holidays in the twenties and thirties
‘the lower order of citizens’ (as an Islington historian politely calls
them) had breakfast at the Eel-Pie House on their way to gather ‘palms’
in Hornsey Wood or more distant regions. The house had a pleasant garden
till its latest days, but little in the way of gala nights or ballooning.
In the strenuous era of prize-fighting even this quiet place was not
without its excitements. Thus, we read that on one day in January, 1826,
a wrestling-match was announced between Ned Savage and another. Savage’s
opponent (Mr. Pigg) was not forthcoming, and the ‘fancy coves,’ not to be
disappointed, retired to a large room in the Sluice House, and soon
formed a temporary ring with the forms and tables. A dog-fight and a
rat-killing match were then exhibited, and, something ‘of a more manly
character’ being called for, a purse was collected, and Bill Webb of
Newport Market and (an unnamed) Jack Tar were soon engaged. ‘About
twenty rounds were fought; both men received heavy punishment, and both
showed fair game qualities.’ The sailor’s courage was particularly
admired, but he, alas! had to strike his colours, and Bill Webb ‘pocketed
the blunt.’
There are several views showing in the foreground the wooden Sluice House
standing over the river, and close behind it the Eel-Pie (or Sluice)
House Tavern; in the distance, Hornsey Wood House (on the site of the
present Finsbury Park). There is a drawing by Mr. H. Fancourt of the
Eel-Pie House Gardens, made in 1867, and kindly presented to the writer.]
THIS garden in the present Highgate Road had a brief existence _circa_
1858–1865, under the management of Edward Weston, the proprietor of
Weston’s (afterwards the Royal) Music Hall in Holborn. A good deal was
crowded into a small space, for besides the choice flowers, shrubs, and
fruit-trees, there was a conservatory, a cascade, a racquet-court, a
small dancing-platform and orchestra, and a panorama 1,600 feet long,
representing ‘the sea-girt island of Caprera, the home of the Italian
Liberator’ (Garibaldi). This encircled the garden, and was lit at night
by variegated gas-jets, stated—but the garden illuminator always
exaggerates—to be 100,000 in number. The admission was usually only
sixpence.
There were complaints about the way in which this miniature Cremorne was
conducted, and the Sunday opening was particularly objected to by its
respectable neighbours. It appears to be the unnamed ‘Retreat’ which
James Greenwood in one of his books describes in scathing terms. {44b}
Thus, when the Midland Railway Company appeared on the scene, there were
many who welcomed its purchase of Mr. Weston’s pleasure-garden. In
October, 1866, the trees, orchestra, gas-fittings, tea-cups, and
everything belonging to the place, were sold off by auction.
The Retreat was in Fitzroy Place, the entrance being between the present
houses numbered 93 and 97, Highgate Road.
The assembly-room, connected with the tavern by a covered way, and the
extensive grounds, were much frequented during the last century till the
forties. The grounds consisted of an upper and lower bowling-green—one
of them sometimes used for archery—and an umbrageous ‘dark walk’
encompassing the kitchen-garden, which was on the west side of the brook
which divided the grounds.
Ballooning was for many years a feature of the place, especially in the
thirties. {46b} In September, 1837, Mrs. Graham tried an experiment with
two parachutes: one, a model of Garnerin’s, was found to oscillate
greatly when released from the balloon; the other, Cocking’s parachute,
descended slowly and steadily. A month earlier (August 9, 1837) Mrs.
Graham had delighted the frequenters of the Mermaid Tea-Gardens by an
ascent in the ‘Royal Victoria,’ accompanied by Mrs. W. H. Adams and Miss
Dean. A lithograph of the time shows these ladies, ‘the only three
female aeronauts that ever ascended alone,’ in their best dresses,
cheerfully waving flags to the people below.
The old tavern was pulled down at the end of the thirties, and several
houses were built on its site. The assembly-room and gardens continued
in existence for many years later, but are now also built over.
EARLY in the eighteenth century, in the days when the London archers shot
at rovers {48a} in the Finsbury fields, there stood near Hoxton Bridge
(at the meeting of the parishes of St. Leonard, Shoreditch, and St. Mary,
Islington) an ‘honest ale-house’ named the Rosemary Branch, {48b} which
was doubtless ofttimes visited by the thirsty archer for a mug of beer
and a game of shovel-board. The place has no history for many years,
though in 1764 it emerges for a moment in a newspaper paragraph: {48c}
‘On Sunday night [August 5], about eight o’clock, as a Butcher and
another man were fighting near the Rosemary Branch, the Butcher received
an unlucky blow on the side of his ribs, which killed him on the spot.
The cause of the quarrel was this: Some boys having a skiff with which
they were sailing in a pond near the aforesaid place, the Butcher
endeavouring to take it from them, a well-dressed man that was passing
expostulated with the man, and putting the question to him, how he should
like to be served so if he was in the lads’ stead? On which the Butcher
struck the gentleman, who defended himself, and gave the deceased a blow
on the temple, and another under his heart, of which he died. His body
was carried to Islington Churchyard for the Coroner to sit on it, and
yesterday the said gentleman was examined before the sitting Justices at
Hicks’s Hall touching the said affair, and admitted to bail.’
In 1783 the old inn was demolished, or was, at any rate, absorbed in the
premises of some white-lead manufacturers, who erected (1786–1792) two
mills—conspicuous as _wind_mills—in the vicinity. A new tavern was built
in front of the mills, with small grounds—about three acres—attached to
it. The Rosemary Branch was now frequented as a tea-garden, one of the
attractions being ‘the pond near the aforesaid place,’ which was used for
boating and skating till, to the disgust of the Sunday visitors, it
suddenly dried up about the year 1830.
John Cavanagh, the fives player (died 1819), whose exploits have been
commemorated by William Hazlitt, sometimes found his way to the Rosemary
Branch, though most of his matches took place in the neighbourhood at
Copenhagen House. By trade he was a house-painter, and one day, putting
on his best clothes, he strolled up to the gardens for an afternoon
holiday. A stranger proposed to Cavanagh a match at fives for half a
crown and a bottle of cider. The match began—7, 8, 10, 13, 14 all. Each
game was hotly contested, but Cavanagh somehow just managed to win. ‘I
never played better in my life,’ said the stranger, ‘and yet I can’t win
a game. There, try that! That is a stroke that Cavanagh could not
take.’ Still the play went on, and in the twelfth game the stranger was
13 to his opponent’s 4. He seemed, in fact, to be winning, when a
new-comer among the bystanders exclaimed: ‘What! are _you_ there,
Cavanagh?’ The amateur fives player let the ball drop from his hand, and
refused to play another stroke, for all this time he had only ‘been
breaking his heart to beat Cavanagh.’ {49}
A view of about the middle of the forties depicts the gardens as entirely
surrounded by alcoves and trees, with two rope ascents and a pony race
{50} going on in the arena simultaneously, like Barnum’s Circus. An
admiring youth, a lady in an ample shawl and hat, and two gentlemen posed
in the manner of tailors’ models, occupy the foreground, while a crowd of
onlookers stand in front of the circle of boxes. Festoons of coloured
lamps, a minute balloon, a small theatre, and an orchestra, are also
symbolic of the attractions of the Islington Vauxhall.
On July 27, 1853, the timber circus caught fire, and an ill-fated troupe
of trained dogs and seven horses perished. I do not suggest that these
seven horses constituted the whole of the garden stud, but after this
time we happen to hear little of the Rosemary Branch as an open-air
resort. It was always a place for visitors of humble rank, the admission
being sixpence or a shilling. A ticket of 1853 notifies that persons not
‘suitably attired’ will be excluded. It was, moreover, announced that
the M.C.’s (Messrs. Franconi and Hughes) ‘keep the strictest order,’ and
a policeman or two hovered in the background. All, therefore, should
have gone well.
The banks of the New River at this time—and, indeed, till near the middle
of the nineteenth century—were lined with tall poplars and graceful
willows, and were frequented by anglers, young and old. Hood, in his
_Walton Redivivus_ (1826), describes Piscator fishing near the
Myddelton’s Head without either basket or can, sitting there (as Lamb
expresses it) like Hope, day after day, ‘speculating on traditionary
gudgeons.’ The covering in of the New River in 1861–1862 ended the
Sadler’s Wells angling for ever.
The house was the favourite haunt of the Sadler’s Wells company, and old
Rosoman, the proprietor of the theatre; Maddox, the wonderful man who
balanced a straw while dancing on the wire; Harlequin Bologna, Dibdin,
and Jo. Grimaldi, smoked many a pipe in its long room or in an arbour in
the garden. In the fifties, a parlour denominated the ‘Crib’ was set
apart for certain choice spirits, who, according to Mr. E. L. Blanchard,
were so uncommonly select that they demanded ‘an introduction and a fee’
from all newcomers.
The tavern, having fallen into decay, was replaced in 1831 by a plain,
ugly building, surmounted by a bust of Myddelton. The ‘grounds,’ chiefly
from the twenties to the fifties, formed a miniature tea-garden with
‘boxes,’ shrubs, and flowers. They were improved in 1852 by Deacon, who
succeeded Edward Wells as proprietor. The house, which stood at the west
end of Myddelton Place, close to Thomas Street and opposite Arlington
Street, was swept away for the formation of Rosebery Avenue.
Now, when these historic dust-heaps were carted off to Russia—the story
is a true one—and utilized in rebuilding the walls of Moscow, they left a
void which even the London builder could not immediately fill. In the
twenties there was still a large vacant space near the corner of Gray’s
Inn Lane, bounded by (the present) Liverpool, Manchester, and Argyle
Streets, and reaching nearly to the Euston Road. This space became the
property of a company which, in 1829, invited the public by prospectus to
subscribe about £20,000 for its development. {54} The worthy historian
of Clerkenwell describes this company as the ‘Pandemomium’ (_sic_), but
as a matter of fact it called itself the Panarmonion, and had nothing
demoniac in its objects, but rather the laudable purpose of converting a
dusty wilderness into a garden and temple of the Muses. The promoter was
a certain Signor Gesualdo Lanza, who presided over a school for acting
and singing in the neighbourhood. Lanza proposed to establish—and
displayed in lithographic plans—a great ‘Panarmonion Institution,’
consisting of a theatre, a concert-hall, a ‘refectory,’ a reading-room,
and even an hotel. These buildings were to rise in a pleasaunce
encircled by trees and alcoves, and adorned with a great fountain and
cascade.
In March, 1830, the place was opened, but the dreams of the prospectus
were never realized. A shilling was charged for admission to the
gardens, but it does not appear that they were ever properly laid out,
and the only attraction was a tour of the grounds in a peculiar
‘Suspension Railway,’ the invention of Mr. H. Thorrington. This railway
consisted of a boat-shaped car suspended from a substantial level bar,
along which it travelled on small wheels set in motion by a wheel in the
car worked by hand. {55a} For the more adventurous visitors,
hobby-horses (rudimentary ‘cycles’) were likewise suspended from the bar,
and worked in the same way as the boat. The theatre, of which a noble
elevation by ‘Stephen Geary, architect,’ {55b} had been shown in the
prospectus, turned out to be a small and narrow building, originally
erected for an auction-room, which Lanza opened in March, 1830, with an
amateurish performance of the opera of _Artaxerxes_. The enterprise was
a failure from the first; the lease of the theatre was offered for sale
in August, {56} and we hear no more of the gardens.
It seems likely that the vanished gardens gave a hint for the laying out
of Argyle Square, which covers a considerable portion of their site.
THE Eagle tavern and Grecian theatre which stood till lately at the
corner of the dreary City Road and Shepherdess Walk were developed out of
a quiet eighteenth-century pleasure-garden known as the Shepherd and
Shepherdess, which had its arbours, skittle-ground, and small
assembly-room. {57a} About 1822 a rather remarkable man, named Thomas
Rouse (born in 1784), came into possession of the premises. {57b} He is
said to have begun life as a bricklayer; at any rate, he had a turn for
building, and in later days indulged himself in saloons, pavilions, and
Cockney gardening. He rebuilt the tavern, or, at any rate, renamed it
the Eagle, and from 1824 onwards the Eagle lawn was the scene of some of
Green’s balloon ascents, and of annual tournaments of the Devon and
Cornish wrestlers and single-stick players. One of the earliest balloon
ascents, on May 25, 1824, gave a melancholy advertisement to the place.
A balloonist named Thomas Harris ascended from the grounds, accompanied
by a young lady named Sophia Stocks, who was described by the journalists
as ‘an intrepid girl’ who entered the balloon ‘with but slight appearance
of fear.’ The balloon took the direction of Croydon, but by its fall to
the earth in Beddington Park, Harris was killed and his companion
severely injured. {58a}
The coronation of William IV. in 1831 did not pass without influence on
the Eagle, for in October the proprietor bought up the fittings of the
Abbey entrance and robing-rooms and erected them as an entrance to his
gardens, advertising them not only as the identical fittings, but as
re-erected by ‘the identical mechanics.’ In this year, also, the famous
Grecian Saloon came into existence. It was furnished with an organ and
‘a superb self-acting piano’; also with a superb gas chandelier, and with
classic paintings by Philip Phillips, a pupil of Clarkson Stanfield and
‘scene-painter to the Adelphi and Haymarket.’ {58b}
The Eagle reopened in the spring of 1832 with many of the attractions
that long continued to characterize it. In the garden was an orchestra
of Oriental type, variously described as Moorish or Chinese, and the
Pandean Band from Vauxhall Gardens was engaged to perform. Dancing took
place, generally once a week, in the ‘Grecian tent’ or in the
assembly-room, and the gardens were adorned with Chinese lanterns,
cosmoramas, fountains, and dripping rocks. In the Saloon there were
concerts and ‘vaudevilles’ every evening, with sacred music (in Lent)
from Handel and Mozart. The admission was no more than a shilling or
sixpence, and it is pleasing to find that the ‘junior branches of
families’ were admitted at threepence a head. One has a tender feeling
for these junior branches, some of whom must have sat there with their
fathers and mothers rather wearily from 7.30 to near 11, enlivened at
times by the conjurer and the lady on the elastic cord (Miss Hengler or
Miss Clarke) but caring little for the excellent glees and the vocal
efforts of Miss Fraser James—bright star though she was of the London
tavern concerts {59a}—or for those of Miss Smith, ‘the little Pickle’ of
Drury Lane, of whom the critics remarked that it was miraculous that so
young a person should be able to sing so high and so low, and excel in
such songs as the ‘Deep, Deep Sea’ and ‘The Wolf,’ which she was
understood to sing in private. How many people at this period visited
the Eagle, or, indeed, any other place of open-air amusement, it is hard
to determine; but the newspapers speak of 5,000 or 6,000 persons being
present on one night in May, while others give the more modest total of
1,000 or 1,300 at sixpence each. The frequenters of the Eagle were
people of humble rank, and at this time we hear of no distinguished
visitors, except, perhaps, Paganini, who, going there with his friends to
amuse himself one August night in 1832, was considerably mobbed, the
remarks on his appearance being doubtless gems of Cockney sarcasm.
A graphic sketch by ‘Boz’ brings back to us the evening when Mr. Samuel
Wilkins, the journeyman carpenter of small dimensions, accompanied his
sweetheart, Miss Jemima Evans, to the Eagle. On their way from a distant
suburb, they stopped at the Crown{59b} in Pentonville, to taste some
excellent shrub in the little garden thereto attached, and finally
arrived in the City Road. The Eagle garden was gravelled and planted,
the refreshment-boxes were painted, and variegated lamps shed their light
on the heads of the company. A Moorish band and military band were
playing in the grounds; but the people were making for the concert-room,
a place with an orchestra, ‘all paint, gilding, and plate glass.’ Here
the audience were seated on elevated benches round the room, and
‘everybody’—and this is a touch of the later Dickens—‘was eating and
drinking as comfortably as possible.’ Mr. Wilkins ordered rum-and-water
with a lemon for himself and ‘sherry-wine’ for the lady, with some sweet
caraway-seed biscuits. There was an overture on the organ and comic
songs (let us add by the famous singers Henry Howell and Robert Glindon
{60}), accompanied by the organ.
This must have been in 1835 or 1836, and Dickens would have been pleased
at the all-embracing sympathies of the proprietor of the Eagle, who, a
little later, organized so many charitable benefits. Thus, there was a
benefit for the Blind Hebrew Brethren in the East, and a ball ‘for our
friends of the Hebrew nation.’ On another night, a benefit ‘to relieve
decayed Druids and their wives and orphans,’ and yet another night ‘for
clothing the children of the needy.’
The new Saloon was opened on January 1, 1838—for the Eagle was a winter
as well as a summer resort {61a}—with a concert and an appropriate
address by Moncrieff the dramatist. A programme of this year includes an
overture by Weber, an air from Rossini, ‘Tell me where is Fancy bred,’
‘All’s Well’ (duet), and ‘It’s all very well, Mr. Ferguson,’ one of
several comic songs.
At the Christmas of 1844, pantomime, which was to make the fame of the
later Grecian theatre, found its place in the programme, and Richard
Flexmore, a really agile, inventive, and humorous clown, made his
appearance. A more remarkable actor, who joined the Grecian company
about this time, and remained with it for five years, was Frederick
Robson, who was given parts in the farces and vaudevilles. Robson’s
great reputation dates from his performances at the Olympic from 1853
onwards, but at the Grecian he had already given an unmistakable taste of
his quality. His famous song ‘Villikins and his Dinah’ was first heard
at the Eagle. A man of strange physique, with a small body and a big
head, he could do what he would with his audience—convulsing them with
laughter by some outrageous drollery; thrilling them with ‘an electrical
burst of passion or pathos, or holding them midway between terror and
laughter as he performed some weirdly grotesque dance.’ {62a} In
burlesque and extravaganza he displayed such passionate intensity that he
seemed to give promise of a second Kean—yet a Kean he never became. A
playgoer who saw him often has acutely suggested that ‘the very
opportunity of exaggeration afforded by burlesque elicited the display of
a quasi-tragic power which would have ceased if the condition of
exaggeration were withdrawn.’ {62b}
March 1, 1851, was memorable at the Eagle as the last night of the
proprietorship of old Thomas Rouse. He died at Boulogne a year later
(September 26, 1852). During his twenty-seven years of management he had
done much to deserve the title of ‘Bravo’ Rouse, with which his audiences
were wont to hail him. For one thing, he was never bored by his own
entertainments, but used to sit, night after night, in a box or other
conspicuous place—a symbol of order, armed with a big stick, which one
fancies he would have used if necessary.
His successor was Benjamin Oliver Conquest {63} (born 1805) a comic actor
of ability, endowed with plenty of animal spirits, which had carried him
from the part of a coach-builder or (according to others) of a bootmaker
in real life to the stage part of a witch in _Macbeth_, and finally
supported him through a twenty-eight weeks’ repetition at the Pavilion
Theatre of a song, ‘Billy Barlow,’ which made a sensation something like
‘Jim Crow.’
He inaugurated the first night of his management at the Eagle, March 31,
1851, by the production of _A Midsummer Night’s Dream_, with an opening
address by E. L. Blanchard. On another night Blanchard’s burlesque,
called _Nobody in Town_ was produced with a part for Sam Cowell
(1820–1866), the comic singer, famous for his clear articulation and
finished style. The great feature of Conquest’s management was the
production of ballets, only surpassed by those of Her Majesty’s Theatre.
It happened that Mrs. Conquest, his wife, was a fine dancer and a
singularly skilful teacher, who trained a long succession of pupils,
including the graceful Kate Vaughan. The Miss Conquests, moreover, his
daughters Amelia, Laura, and Isabella, formed in themselves a small
troupe of capable dancers. In the gardens, too, the public dancing
became more prominent, and a ‘monster platform’ was erected for the
accommodation of 500 people. The masked ball was also occasionally
tried, an experiment, as Vauxhall had shown, likely to be fraught with
rowdyism, though the Eagle sternly refused admittance to clowns,
harlequins, and pantaloons. One sensation of Conquest’s management was
the ascent, in 1852, of Coxwell’s balloon, with the acrobats H. and E.
Buislay suspended on a double trapeze from its car.
In the last years of the fifties, pantomime and drama, romantic and
sensational, figure largely in the bills. From 1857 George Conquest, the
proprietor’s son, began to take a prominent part as actor and
stage-manager, and finally made the Grecian pantomime one of the features
of the minor stage. In conjunction with H. Spry, the younger Conquest
wrote or produced more than twenty-one pantomimes at this theatre, and
was always to the fore in the performance itself. Unsurpassed in daring
feats of the trap and trapeze kind, he was no less remarkable for his
wonderful make-up and changes. In the _Wood Demon_ (1873–1874), for
instance, he presented the title-rôle as a tree, appearing next as a
dwarf, an animated pear, and finally as an octopus. He became sole
proprietor on his father’s death (July 5, 1872), and built a new Grecian
theatre, {64a} opened in October, 1877, with Harry Nicholls; George
Conquest, junior, and Miss M. A. Victor in the company.
In 1879 Conquest sold the Eagle property to Mr. T. G. Clark, taking his
farewell benefit on March 17. He migrated to the Surrey Theatre, where,
as lessee, he continued the traditions of the Grecian pantomimes. He
died on May 14, 1901.
Mr. Clark, the new proprietor, {64b} had made money in the marine-store
business, and would have been better qualified to command the Channel
Fleet than to manage the Eagle. He had, it is true, been for a short
time the lessee of the Adelphi, but he had no eye for theatrical
business, and his new venture, chiefly in the regions of melodrama, was
once more disastrous to his pocket. Perhaps the failure was not entirely
his own fault. Tastes were changing, and the Eagle garden, with its
public dancing—now that Cremorne had passed away—seemed something like a
scandal or an anachronism. In the time of the Conquests there had been
complaints of the company that frequented the Eagle. Such charges are
too often exaggerated, because they are often made by well-meaning people
who really know nothing _at first hand_ of popular amusements, and who go
to the garden or the music-hall to collect evidence, as it were, for the
prosecution. At the same time, there is generally something in
complaints of the kind, nor are managers quite the immaculate beings that
their counsel represent them to be when licences come on for renewal in
October. It is right to say that George Conquest seems to have done his
best to keep out notoriously bad characters, and that he warned mere boys
and girls off his monster platform and his concert-hall.
Mr. Clark’s difficulties and the belief, well founded or not, that the
Eagle was an undesirable public influence formed the opportunity of
‘General’ Booth and the Salvation Army. The Army wanted a barracks and a
headquarters for their social and religious work. That they should have
obtained these—and largely by public subscription—few will complain. But
it is not quite clear that it was imperative to make an onslaught on the
Eagle, being, as it was, a centre of amusement in the colourless life of
the district. A new theatre might well have arisen under a new Conquest,
even if the garden and the dancing had to go.
In June, 1882, the Eagle was purchased by the Army. In August the stage
appliances were sold off, and the Army entered the citadel in triumph.
In September the public were admitted. A great tent for religious
services took the place of the monster platform—the pernicious spot on
which, as Mr. Booth’s friends declared, so many ‘had danced their way to
destruction.’ Curiously enough, though one object of the movement was to
annihilate the Eagle tavern, that stronghold of beer-drinking and
spirit-drinking, Mr. Booth discovered that the law compelled him to keep
up the drinking licence, and beer is sold in the Eagle public-house at
this very moment. Unfortunately, also, for its funds, the Army got
involved in litigation about alterations and repairs—a costly business
which was carried up to the House of Lords.
At last the ancient domain of the Shepherd and Shepherdess was deserted
even by the Salvation Army. In September, 1899, the newspapers announced
that the Eagle premises were in the hands of the house-breakers. A few
old frequenters hastened to revisit the place, and some others, no doubt,
who had only heard of the Eagle as a somewhat low resort associated with
that enigmatic song of their childhood, ‘Pop goes the Weasel,’ must have
been surprised to find the buildings—rather handsome in their way—still
in existence. The Eagle garden presented itself to such visitors as a
large paved square, which, judging from its two surviving trees, could
never have been truthfully described as thickly wooded. Conspicuous
features were the large rotunda opposite the entrance, with its pit, now
floored over, and the ‘new’ theatre (of 1877), adjoining Shepherdess
Walk, practically unaltered, though dingy and dirt-begrimed beyond
description.
The Oriental orchestra in the garden still showed traces of its gaudy
colouring, and a melancholy brick wall displayed remnants of primitive
grotto-work. One could trace near the centre of the grounds the
concrete-covered circle where many a light-hearted couple had danced
before the days of the Conquests. {66} The rows of alcoves, with the
balcony for promenaders above them, were still there, though no longer
brightly painted, but mostly boarded up and filled with headless Venuses
and Cupids—pagan deities of the gardens who nourished _circa_ A.D.
1838–1882.
Soon after this, the huge Eagle tavern, surmounted by its proud stone
bird, was demolished, and a smaller public-house of neat red brick
(opened August, 1900) now covers part of its site. On the site of the
theatre and its entrance, which faced Shepherdess Walk, and was adorned
with two more stone eagles, we have now a police-station. Though all the
old buildings have been destroyed, much of the garden space is still
unoccupied, and in due season a solitary tree puts forth its leaves.
At the end of 1838 Bradley began to adorn his gardens somewhat in the
manner of the Eagle, surrounding them with boxes, alcoves, and panoramic
views, and building the new saloon for concerts and plays which became
well known as the Albert Saloon. He opened the gardens on Easter Monday,
1839, announcing that they would accommodate 10,000 persons, of whom
4,000 were sure of shelter from the rain. Concerts, vaudevilles, and
melodramas were for several years the staple of attraction, and the
admission was usually not more than sixpence. Tom Jones, a mimic and
comic singer, was the manager, and something was done in the way of
fireworks, ballooning, and weekly dances.
At the gardens of this period the mild attraction of a balloon ascent was
often heightened by suspending from the car some living object—a pony, a
donkey, or a man. The balloonist Gypson, who ascended from the Standard
gardens in 1839, varied this device by attaching to his night-balloon ‘a
model of the late Royal Exchange.’ Unfortunately, as the balloon was
rising, the ‘late Royal Exchange’ caught fire and was burnt to ashes in
the grounds, though the aeronaut cut the rope and soared on high in
safety.
The Albert Saloon had also its pantomimes, and for several years the
noted clown, Paul Herring, was in its company. Herring had begun life,
like other famous artists, by performing daily—and innumerable times
daily—in Richardson’s show at Bartholomew Fair. He came to the Albert
Saloon in 1839, and was afterwards clown at the Victoria and other
theatres. In his later days he subsided into the lean and slippered
pantaloon, a part that he played in the Drury Lane pantomime of 1877, the
year before his death.
The glory of the Albert appears to have waned at the end of the forties,
and the place was closed about 1857, and the Royal Standard, a
public-house numbered 106, Shepherdess Walk is now its only
representative. {69}
[The newspapers, and bills and posters of the Albert Saloon (W.);
Colburn’s _Kalendar_, 1840, pp. 14, 163.]
THE New Globe tavern, No. 359, Mile End Road, was and is (though somewhat
altered)—a substantial building, with a fine golden globe still keeping
its balance on the roof. From the twenties or thirties {70a} till the
sixties it had some spacious grounds in the rear, entered from an archway
beside the tavern. These grounds contained fine trees, and were prettily
laid out with many fountains, statues, and rustic boxes. On the west of
the grounds was the Regent’s Canal, and the whistling and puffing of the
Eastern Counties Railway in the background were, for a time, looked on as
amusing novelties. Houses in Whitman Road and Longfellow Road (at the
back of the tavern) now cover the site of these grounds.
In 1831 the Mile End New Globe Cricket Club was formed here, and in 1835
we hear of its beating the fashionable Montpelier Club. {70b} The garden
had its concerts and occasional ballets, and its ballooning, of which a
tale is told by Henry Coxwell, aeronaut, who made a series of ascents
from this place. On a summer day in 1854 he received an unexpected
summons for a balloon display. It was the benefit night of Francis, the
manager, and Coxwell was anxious to oblige. But his balloon had just
been oiled and it was a warm evening—too warm for the safety of the
balloon. Yet a balloon had been promised and fireworks. About eight
o’clock an anxious consultation took place in the gardens, and the
concert, on Coxwell’s suggestion, was prolonged till it was pitch dark in
the grounds. The gardens were now crowded, and there were impatient
cries for lighting up. At last, after a little more delay, the reluctant
balloonist was seen to enter—or rather to be pushed headlong into—the
car. But all went well: the balloon ascended, its occupant bowed and
waved his flag, and in a burst of fireworks was quickly lost to view.
While all this was in progress a man, evidently suffering from a terrible
cold, for he was greatly muffled up, and wearing whiskers—could they be
false whiskers?—might have been seen anxiously skirting the edge of the
crowd and making the best of his way to the Mile End Road.
Mr. Francis’s benefit was a success, but the next day there arrived at
the New Globe a worthy farmer, bearing in a basket Coxwell’s duly
ticketed balloon, which had descended in his field. ‘Greatly obliged to
you,’ said the proprietor. ‘No lives lost, I hope?’ ‘No lives,’ said
the farmer; ‘there was none to lose. The fellow found by my man Joe was
thought to have expired, yet all the life he ever had was out of him; but
_you know_ and _I know_ that he never had any, mister.’ The farmer spoke
the truth: _the Globe balloonist was a dummy_!
TO picture the Red House and its surroundings, one must put out of sight
the fine park of Battersea, and go back to the first fifty years of the
nineteenth century. At that time there stood near the riverside, facing
the south end of the present Victoria (or Chelsea Suspension) Bridge, a
picturesque tavern of red brick, with white pointings and green-painted
shutters. On a summer day the pleasantest place for alfresco refreshment
was a small jetty in front of the tavern, beneath the elm-trees and the
flagstaff that flew the colours of the house. On the east side was a
garden with spacious boxes and arbours.
The Red House was the favourite goal of many Thames races, but in the
twenties, thirties, and forties its fame was chiefly due to its
shooting-ground, an enclosure about 120 yards square, where the Red House
Club and the crack shots of the Metropolis were accustomed to meet.
Pigeons were sold for the shooting at fifteen shillings a dozen,
starlings at four shillings, and sparrows at two shillings. When
sportsmen like Mr. Bloodsworth and Mr. ‘O.’ were on the spot the
execution was deadly. Thus, in 1832, in the first match at 30 birds
each, each shot 28; in the second, B. killed 25, O. 23; and in a third
match B. killed his 25, and O. his 22.
At one time a half-witted man called Billy the Nutman drove his little
trade near the Red House, and for a few pence would stand in the water
while sportsmen of the baser sort took shots in his direction. Here, at
any rate, pigeon-shooting did not encourage humanity or a sense of
humour.
A nicer habitué of the Red House was the raven Gyp, the treasure of the
landlord, Mr. Wright. {73} Gyp was not, indeed, universally beloved,
especially by the prowling dogs of the neighbourhood, on whom he pounced
with beak and claw. He was, moreover, not inexpert in thieving, and had,
in many hiding-places, deposited the spoons and pairs of spectacles
snapped up in leisure moments. He had also formed a coin collection by
swooping down on the sixpences and shillings placed on the bar by
customers paying their reckoning. He was a talking bird, but indulged
neither in fatuous endearments nor horrid oaths. He was, in truth, a
practical joker of the finest feather. His human ‘What’s a clock?’
elicited an answer from many a Cockney oarsman as he passed the Red
House; and his ‘Boat ahoy! Our Rock, over!’ could be heard across the
river. Now, at the White House (opposite the Red) was stationed a
ferryman named Rock, and even Mr. James Rock was sometimes deceived.
Twice on one day he had crossed to the Red House to answer the call of a
non-existent passenger, but the third time he caught the raven in the
act, and flung the handiest missile—a pewter pot—at the mischievous bird.
The landlord was enraged, though Gyp escaped; but it was probably owing
to this incident that Gyp was removed to a Midland county, where, in the
absence of Cockneys and ferrymen, he pined away and died.
The frequenters of the Red House were not all pigeon-shooters. Around it
extended the drear and marshy waste of Battersea Fields, abounding in
plants many and curious, but also in strange specimens of humanity. In
the early years of the nineteenth century an informal fair was held at
Easter in the Fields; in 1823 it was prohibited, but the spirit of
fairing was not dead, and from 1835 onwards the fair became perpetual,
and especially vigorous on the Day of Rest. A Battersea missionary, the
Rev. Thomas Kirk, states his recollections of this fair as follows: ‘If
ever there was a place out of hell which surpassed Sodom and Gomorrah in
ungodliness and abomination, this was it.’ ‘I have gone,’ he says, ‘to
this sad spot in the afternoon and evening of the Lord’s Day, when there
have been from 60 to 120 horses and donkeys racing, foot-racing, walking
matches, flying boats, flying horses, roundabouts, theatres, comic
actors, shameless dancers, conjurers, fortune-tellers, gamblers of every
description, drinking-booths, stalls, hawkers, and vendors of all kinds
of articles.’ It would be impossible to describe the ‘mingled shouts and
noises and the unmentionable doings of this pandemonium on earth.’
[Picture: Barry, the Clown, on the Thames. (Cf. Red House, Battersea.)]
This is graphic enough, but perhaps a trifle severe, for it will be noted
that in the worthy missionary’s indictment the donkeys and the
roundabouts are hardly less heinous counts than the gambling and the
unmentionable doings. However this may be, Battersea Fields for years
not only outraged the notion of a quiet Sunday, but in the summertime
attracted by thousands the choicest specimens of the loafer, the
‘gypsey,’ and the rowdy. It might have been left to the local builder to
cover the objectionable fields with bricks and mortar, but a better way
was found. In 1846 an Act of Parliament empowered the Commissioners of
Woods and Forests to form a park in the Fields, and in 1850 the Red House
and its shooting-ground were purchased by them for £10,000. But the
landlord (James Ireland) and the fair people had still two years to run.
Mr. Ireland, on his part, considerably forced the pace, and made his
garden into a minor Vauxhall, where we hear of balloons and fireworks, a
ballet, a circus, a dancing-platform, and a tight rope. All this must
have been on a humble scale, for sixpence and threepence were the highest
charges. It was in 1852 that Mr. John Garratt raced Mr. Hollyoak from
the Old Swan to the Red House for £5, their boats being washing-tubs
drawn by geese. Nothing is new in ‘amusements,’ and even this silly
contest was as old as 1844, when John Barry, the clown of Astley’s, had
conducted (in full canonicals) a similar craft from Vauxhall to
Westminster. {75} As another attraction Ireland introduced the
pedestrian Searles to perform the dismal feat of walking 1,000 miles in
1,000 consecutive hours. Mr. Searles walked for six weeks, from July 7
to August 18 (1851), and an ox was roasted whole in the grounds to
celebrate his achievement. A monster loaf, a plum-pudding weighing a
hundredweight, and a butt of Barclay’s best, were at the same time
presented to the public. A calf, a fat sheep, and a prime pig were
promised for future Sundays.
The fair was suppressed by the magistrates in May, 1852, and from this
time the formation of Battersea Park went slowly on till its formal
opening on March 28, 1858. It occupies 198 acres of the old Fields, and
has absorbed, besides the Red House, some other places of resort—the
Tivoli Gardens on the river front, and the Balloon tavern and gardens in
the marshland.
There are several lithographs and water-colour drawings, all showing the
front of the house and the jetty. A similar view (an oil-painting) in
Mr. Gardner’s collection is reproduced in Birch’s _London on Thames_,
Plate XVII.
‘The resort of Royalty’ to the gardens was legitimately inferred from the
fact that the grounds were at the back of Brunswick House, the former
residence of the Duke of Brunswick. The local resident entered his
pleasure-garden from the Wandsworth Road, and respectfully skirted the
house and its private grounds till he reached a spacious lawn at the
back. This was bordered on two sides by rustic boxes and refreshment
bars, and by an orchestra and assembly-room. The pleasantest feature of
the garden was a promenade platform erected on piles over the Thames.
Close by was the river entrance and the pier of the Vauxhall Hotel, at
which the steamboats from Hungerford Market and the City landed visitors
at about seven o’clock.
Brunswick House, an ugly but spacious brick mansion (No. 54, Wandsworth
Road), is still standing, and is now used as a Club for the employés of
the London and South-Western Railway. The garden space is absorbed by
yards and wharves.
THESE gardens, entered from the Wyndham Road, Camberwell, had a brief but
lively existence from 1849 till about 1857. A central walk, adorned with
fountains and lawns on either hand, led to a ball-room on the right, and
on the left to a maze described as ‘the nearest to that of Hampton
Court.’ This maze was intricate and verdant, and provided with a
competent guide, while in the middle—in which respect it surpassed ‘that
of Hampton Court’—it had a magic hermitage inhabited by a learned
Chaldean astrologer.
Concerts and dancing took place every evening in the summer, the
admission being sixpence. On special occasions there were costume balls
with a large band. From 1851 to 1854 James Ellis, the former lessee of
Cremorne, was manager. He gave a ball _à la Watteau_, and in 1854
repeated Lord Chief Baron Nicholson’s ‘1,000 guineas fête,’ {79} which
had the genuine, and slightly risky, Nicholson flavour. It lasted three
days, and included a steeplechase by lady jockeys, a Coventry procession
by torchlight, with Lady Godiva and other characters sustained ‘by
artists’ (presumably not R.A’s) ‘from the Royal Academy.’ There were
also Arabian Nights’ entertainments, and a mock election for Camberwell,
in which the candidates addressed the free and independent voters from
the hustings.
In July, 1796, the newly formed Montpelier Club played their first match
in their cricket ground at Montpelier Gardens; and on August 10 and 11 of
that year the same ground was the scene of a match of a rather painful,
if curious, character. The game, like all the cricket of the period, had
high stakes dependent on it—in this case 1,000 guineas—and the players
were selected (by two noble lords) from the pensioners of Greenwich
Hospital: eleven men with one leg against eleven with one arm. The match
began at ten, but about three a riotous crowd broke in, demolished the
gates and fences, and stopped the proceedings till six o’clock, when play
was resumed. On the second day the elevens reappeared, being brought to
the scene of action in three Greenwich stage-coaches, not without flags
and music. The match was played out, and the one-legged men beat the
poor one-arms by 103. {81b}
In the first thirty years of the nineteenth century the place had
considerable local reputation as a tea-garden, and was noted for its
maze. It did not become extinct till the end of the fifties.
The gardens were to the west of the present Walworth Road, a little to
the south-west of Princes Street. The Montpelier tavern and Walworth
Palace of Varieties (No. 18, Montpelier Street) is on part of the site.
The ‘Zoo’ which found a home in a beautiful garden in the south of London
was for some time no mean rival to the Zoo _par excellence_ in Regent’s
Park, while, as a place of public entertainment, the Surrey Gardens had
something of the popularity of Cremorne, with which they were, in fact,
nearly coeval. But here the resemblance ends, for the Surrey Zoo had no
dancing-platform, {83} no alcoholic drinks for more than thirteen years,
and rarely furnished to the police-court reporter any copy worthy of his
notice. The gardens were generally closed at 10 p.m., and the addition
in 1846 of two new constables to the permanent staff was advertised as an
effective terror to evil-doers. The gardens were by no means solely
frequented by South Londoners, though they were far from the luxurious
west, and on the wrong side of the Thames. Fireworks, promenade concerts
and ballooning were a bait for the shillings of the sightseer, but for
more than twenty years at least these attractions never quite
sophisticated the simple recreation afforded by the Zoological Garden.
The founder, and for many years the proprietor, of these gardens was
Edward Cross, whose menagerie at Exeter Change was once a London sight
and the abode of the famous elephant Chunee. But Exeter Change, as old
views of London clearly show, projected itself in an obstructive way
across the pavement of the Strand, and in 1829 was removed for the
formation of Burleigh Street. Mr. Cross then moved his animals to a
temporary home in the King’s Mews (the site of Trafalgar Square). In the
autumn of 1831 the menagerie found itself in South London. The
Manor-House, Walworth, had attached to it a fine garden of fifteen acres
and a lake of three acres, {84} which was not only a picturesque feature,
but, as we shall afterwards see, a valuable theatrical asset as ‘real
water.’ The owner of the Manor-House had already spent several thousands
on his grounds, and it was not difficult for Cross to make the necessary
alterations. The gardens were remodelled or laid out anew by Henry
Phillips, author of _Sylva Florifera_, with flower-beds, walks, and
undulating lawns, and an early guidebook to the gardens gives a list of
its two hundred varieties of hardy trees. Aviaries were soon put up for
the singing birds, and swings and cages for the parrots. The water-birds
readily took to the little ponds, and the swans and herons were soon at
home in the Great Lake, where they found an island haven overhung by
drooping willows. The lions and tigers were caged in a great circular
conservatory of glass (something like the palm-house at Kew), 300 feet
long, and constructed nearly in the centre of the grounds. A still
larger octagon building with enclosed paddocks was erected for the
zebras, emus, and kangaroos.
The _Companion_ to the gardens, issued in 1835, duly sets forth the
catalogue of the animals and birds, and many numbers of the _Mirror_
magazine give neat woodcuts of the ‘latest additions,’ at that time
apparently rare or curious, though now sufficiently familiar. The
greatest popular successes were the three giraffes—the first ever seen in
England—brought over in 1836 from Alexandria; the orang-outang; the
Indian one-horned rhinoceros (1834); Nero, the lion who cost £800, and
was stated to be twenty years old; and a gigantic tortoise, which small
children used to ride.
Vesuvius was repeated in 1838, and henceforth the Surrey Zoo was never
without an exhibition of the kind. It is a good rule always to see a
panorama or a big model whenever one has the opportunity, but the reader
will perhaps be contented if I set forth the chronology of the Surrey
panoramas in a footnote. {86a} However carefully painted the canvas
might be, a subject was preferred that lent itself to treatment by
gunpowder and fireworks. Thus, Vesuvius was followed by Mount Hecla; Old
London was burnt in the Great Fire of 1666; Gibraltar was besieged;
Badajoz stormed ‘with effects of real ordnance’; and the taking of
Sebastopol was truly terrific.
The city of Rome (covering five acres) was a favourite subject. The
scene showed the bridge over the Tiber, St. Peter’s, and the Castle of
St. Angelo. At night-time Southby’s fireworks legitimately reproduced
the Roman Girandola of Easter Monday:
From 1839 to 1844 orchestral concerts, without vocalists, were one of the
principal attractions. A good band, under C. Godfrey, performed music of
the promenade-concert type—operatic overtures, dance-music by Strauss and
Musard, with an occasional ‘classical’ first part, when Handel and
Beethoven had their turn.
The gardens were now taken in hand by the Surrey Music-Hall Company, who
had a working capital of over £30,000, and rented the gardens for £346.
The chairman of this company was Sir W. de Bathe, but Jullien had a
considerable stake in the enterprise. At a cost of £18,200 a music-hall
(in the classical sense of the word) was erected near the lake, on the
site of the circular conservatory. This building, by Horace Jones, was
on a great scale, and would hold an audience of 12,000 and an orchestra
of 1,000. Its general appearance was not ineffective, but a critic
described its style as degenerate Italian relieved in the French taste.
It was opened on July, 15, 1856, with a performance of ‘The Messiah,’
with Jullien, Clara Novello, Sims Reeves, Miss Dolby, and Piatti.
In the autumn the new hall had a strange tenant in Mr. C. H. Spurgeon,
who, finding Exeter Hall and his own chapel too small, hired the building
for four Sundays for a payment of £15 each Sunday. On the evening of
October 19 there was an enormous congregation. While Spurgeon was
engaged in prayer an extraordinary panic occurred. Some mischief-maker
raised a shout of ‘Fire!’ or, according to another account, there was an
agonized cry of ‘The roof! The roof!’ A mad rush was made for the
doors, some of which seem to have been locked to prevent people strolling
in and out of the gardens. Spurgeon kept calm, and, when the terror
subsided, some of the congregation found their way back to the hall, but
seven persons had been killed and about fifty injured in the crush.
The new company was soon in difficulties, and in August of 1857 the
directors were behindhand with their rates. At a meeting of the
shareholders Jullien complained bitterly that, though a profit of £1,000
had been made, he was given no money to pay his band. He had lost—as he
put it—£2,000 by his unpaid salary, and £2,000 by his worthless shares.
In 1859 there was a more modest orchestra of sixty, and the Surrey
Gardens Choir performed madrigals; but in the background there were
proceedings in Chancery, and in April the gardens—now described as of ten
acres—were advertised for sale. In June, 1861, the music-hall was burnt
out, and though in the following year a picture of the Bay of Naples was
offered to the public, the life of the gardens was wellnigh extinct. It
happened that at this time (1862) the authorities of St. Thomas’s
Hospital had to leave their old home in Southwark, and needed a temporary
resting-place. They had the music-hall rebuilt, and used it for the
reception of patients until 1871. Then the new hospital was opened on
the Albert Embankment.
In 1875 the lessees were Messrs. Poole and Stacey, who produced comic
opera and ballet. Captain Boyton this year exhibited the life-saving
apparatus with which he had crossed the Channel. In 1877 a new manager
or lessee, John Reeves, offered for a sixpenny admission an open-air
dancing-platform, a variety entertainment, and the sight of a Canadian ox
of 400 stone. The last regular entertainment took place in the theatre
on August 14, 1877.
In March, 1878, the theatre was hired for a single performance, a boxing
match between Rooke and Harrington. A rough company of 800 people were
got together, and the prize, a splendid silver vase valued at £100, was
ostentatiously displayed to the audience. An old ‘Surrey’ waiter who was
present is said to have recognized in this noble trophy a capacious
_leaden_ vessel which had stood on one of the refreshment counters in the
water-drinking days of the Zoological Gardens. {91}
Views: Plan of the gardens prefixed to the _Companion to the Royal Surrey
Gardens_, third edition, 1835. Lithograph published by Havell in 1832
(W.). Lithograph by Alvey, 1836. Views in the _Mirror_, 1832.
_Illustrated London News_, July 19, 1856 (view of gardens in 1856). The
annual panoramas were regularly pictured in the _Mirror_ and the
_Illustrated London News_.]
ADMIRAL KEPPEL, Chelsea.—Now No. 77, Fulham Road. The gardens lay
between Marlborough Road and Keppel Street, and extended to Albert Place
at the back of the tavern (1790–1856).
SIX BELLS, NO. 197, King’s Road, Chelsea.—Still preserves a small garden
and bowling-green. (View in P. Norman’s _London Vanished_, etc., p.
264.)
THE SWAN, Chelsea.—Old Swan House (No. 20, Embankment Gardens) is on part
of the site (_circa_ 1780–1873). (Blunt’s _Chelsea_, p. 116; _cf._ p.
119 for the older Swan (_circa_ 1780) in Chelsea.)
HOOP AND TOY, Brompton.—Now No. 34, Thurloe Place, S.W. (_circa_
1833–1860).
KING’S ARMS, Pimlico.—Now No. 68, Ranelagh Road. The gardens were near
the river, between Claverton Street and Ranelagh Road (_circa_
1820–1850).
II.—BAYSWATER, ETC.
NEW BAGNIGGE WELLS (or ‘CROWN’ GARDENS), Bayswater Road.—Now Crown Hotel
(_circa_ 1819–1840).
THE MAZE, Harrow Road.—Now No. 6, Chichester Place, Harrow Road (_circa_
1842).
THE PLOUGH, Notting Hill.—Now No. 144, High Street, Notting Hill (_circa_
1834).
III.—NORTH LONDON.
For White Conduit House, Belvidere Tavern, Canonbury Tavern, Hornsey Wood
House, Highbury Barn, and Kentish Town Assembly-House, see _London
Pleasure-Gardens_, Group III.
THE THREE COMPASSES, Hornsey, by the New River (1824 and later). (Hone,
_Every-Day Book_, ii., p. 1311; Sherington, _Story of Hornsey_, p. 43;
Thorne’s _Environs_, _s.v._ Hornsey.)
BULL AND GATE.—Now No. 389, Kentish Town Road (1801 and later).
CASTLE.—Now No. 147, Kentish Town Road. Garden site in Castle Place and
Castle Terrace (_circa_ 1830–1851).
MOTHER RED CAP.—Now 174, High Street, Camden Town (from end of eighteenth
century to early nineteenth century).
ABBEY TAVERN, St. John’s Wood.—Now No. 8, Violet Hill Abbey Gardens, N.W.
(from _circa_ 1844).
EYRE ARMS, St. John’s Wood.—Now No. 1, Finchley Road. The space behind
the tavern and the adjoining Wellington Hall is now Hannay’s
Riding-School (chiefly 1820 and 1830).
SWISS COTTAGE, St. John’s Wood.—Now 98, Finchley Road. Has still a small
garden (_circa_ 1844).
V.—EAST LONDON.
NEW VICTORIA GARDENS, Mile End.—The Victoria Tavern, No. 110, Grove Road,
Arbery Road, and Medhurst Road, mark the site (_circa_ 1840–1850).
VI.—SOUTH LONDON.
NINE ELMS TAVERN.—Now 33, Nine Elms Lane, S.W. The garden site now
occupied by the wharf of John Bryan and Co. (_circa_ 1840).
* * * * *
INDEX
ABBEY TAVERN, 95
Acrotormentarian Society, 40
Adelphi Theatre, 64
Amburgh, Van, 69
American drinks, 7
Anerley Gardens, 97
Angling, 42, 52
Arban, J., 90
Archery, 38, 48
Audrian, 19
Bagnigge Wells, 96
Baldwin, vocalist, 67
Balloon Tavern, 75
Ballooning, 3, 5, 9, 16, 17, 30, 46, 47, 50, 51, 57, 58, 63, 68, 70, 71,
77, 87, 88
Barrett, Oscar, 67
Barton, William, 50
Bathe, Sir W. de, 89
Battersea, 72–76
Battersea Park, 75
Battle Bridge, 54
Bayswater Tea-Gardens, 94
Beaufoy, H., 47
Beckwith family, 16
Bedford Arms, 95
Belvidere Tavern, 95
Bermondsey, 97
Bethnal Green, 96
Beulah Spa, 97
Bishop, James, 14
Blackmore, rope-walker, 85
Blewitt, musician, 77
Boleno, H., 67
Bologna, harlequin, 53
Booth, ‘General,’ 65
Borini, bandmaster, 7
Bosjesmans, the, 8
Bouthellier, 9
Bower Saloon, 58
Boyton, Captain, 91
Braehem, Mlle., 77
Brecknock Arms, 95
Britannia Saloon, 95
Byron, Lord, 39
Cabinet Theatre, 56
Canonbury Tavern, 95
Caroline, Mme., 15
Castle Gardens, 95
Chabert, 8
Chelsea manor-houses, 25
— Rotherhithe, 97
Chinese Exhibition, 51
Christie, Mr., 39
Clerkenwell, 52, 96
Cochrane, Lord, 2
Cocking’s parachute, 46
Connop, J., 35
Conquest family, 63
Core, Cristoforo, 8
Coronation Pleasure-Grounds, 60
Coveney, Harriet, 67
Cremorne Gardens, 1–24; plan of, 6–8; sale of, 22, 23; site of, 23, 24
Cremorne House, 1, 2
Creole choristers, 10
Cricket, 70, 81
Cruikshank, George, 2, 24
Cumberland Gardens, 96
Cushine, Thérèse, 67
Cyder Cellars, 4
Dancing at Cremorne, 7, 17
Darby, fireworker, 3, 77
Deacon, manager, 53
Dean, Miss, 46
Debach brothers, 30
Delamarne’s balloon, 17
Deulin, 10, 67
De Vere, conjurer, 19
Dolby, Miss, 89
Doughty’s dogs, 19
Dowling, Isaac, 67
Duelling, 39, 40
Edwards, Lambert, 10
Evans’s Supper-Rooms, 10
Ewing’s waxworks, 82
Exeter Change, 83
Eyre Arms, 95
Finsbury Fields, 48
Fitzgerald, Percy, 22
Fitzwilliam, Mrs., 56
Fives-playing, 49
Flexmore, Richard, 7, 62
Flower-shows, 6, 8, 85
Forde, Miss, 67
Franconi, 8, 51
Garibaldi, 44
Garnerin’s parachute, 46
Garratt, John, 75
Geary, Stephen, 55
‘Geneive,’ Mme., 14
Genvieve, Mme., 14
Gieulien, Miss, 77
Grimaldi, 53
Grover, Russell, 61
Gypson, balloonist, 68
Hackney, 46, 47
Hampstead, 95
Handel, 88
Harrington, boxer, 91
Harroway, musician, 67
Hazlitt, William, 81
Hengler, 29, 59
Highbury, 42
Hogarth’s ‘Evening,’ 52
Hollyoak, 75
Hornsey, 95
Hoxton, 48
Hoxton Tea-Gardens, 95
Huddart, Miss, 89
Huntingdon, Lady, 1
Ireland, James, 75
Ireland, T., 5
Islington, 48, 95
‘Islington Vauxhall,’ 49
Jackson’s racing-grounds, 94
Jefferini, clown, 82
Jeffrey, Francis, 39
Jullien, 89, 90
Kensington, 30–33, 93
Lambeth, 97
Lanza, Rosalie, 56
Latour, Henri, 9, 10
Laurent, bandmaster, 7
Lauri family, 17
Leclercq family, 67
Leotard, 16
Littlejohn, manager, 5
Lovarny, Mlle., 89
Love, Miss, 10
Lumber Troop, 50
Lusby’s Pleasure-Gardens, 90
Maddox, equilibrist, 52
Maginn, Dr., 4
Manor-House, Walworth, 84
Marimon, Mme., 91
Marionettes at Cremorne, 7
Marriott’s band, 7
Matthews, Fanny, 5
Middlebrook, T. G., 95
Milano, harlequin, 67
Millbank, 28
Moffatt’s circus, 51
Moncrieff, W. T., 67
Mortram, fireworker, 8
Musard, 77
Natator, ‘man-frog,’ 16
Nicholls, Harry, 64
North Pole, 95
Novello, Clara, 89
O
Old King’s Arms, Southwark, 96
Paganini, 59
Paget, Lieutenant, 49
Pandean Band, 58
Paragon Theatre, 96
Parsons, organ-builder, 61
Patey, Madame, 91
Pavilion Theatre, 63
Penn, Granville, 2
Penn, William, 1
Pepper’s ghost, 44
Pereira, Mme., 16
Piatti, 89
Pigeon-shooting, 72
Pilton, James, 25
Pimlico, 29, 94
Pitt’s Head, 96
Plimmeri, Signor, 28
Poitevin, Mme., 9
Polytechnic Institution, 44
Primrose Hill, 39
Pugilism, 42, 43
Punnett, P., 61
Racing, 34–36
Ramo Samee, 85
Rivière, Jules, 17
Robson, Frederick, 62
Rock, James, 73
Rooke, boxer, 91
Rosherville Gardens, 97
Rosoman, 52
Russelli family, 80
Samee, Ramo, 85
Scott, John, 39
Searles, pedestrian, 75
Sharp, J. W., 10
Southampton Arms, 95
Southwark, 96
Soyer, Madame, 32
Spry, H., 64
Spurgeon, C. H., 89
Stanfield, Clarkson, 58
Stepney, 96
Strange, Frederick, 90
Strombolo House, 94
Swiss Cottage, 95
Sylvester, A., 44
T
Thatched House, Islington, 95
Thorrington, H., 55
Turnour, fireworker, 26
Union Tea-Gardens, 94
Van Amburgh, 69
Vaughan, Kate, 63
Wandsworth Road, 78
Wellington Restaurant, 13
Whitfield, George, 1
Whyte, John, 34
Wilberforce, William, 32
Yorkshire Stingo, 94
Young, Selina, 14
* * * * *
FOOTNOTES
{2a} On the owners of Cremorne House, built _circa_ 1740, see Beaver,
_Chelsea_, p. 156.
{3} In 1836 fireworks by Duffell and Darby. In 1837 a music and dancing
licence was granted to ‘Charles Random.’ In 1837 and 1839 John Hampton’s
balloon ascents and parachute experiments (_cf._ the _Mirror_, June 15,
1839). A _fête-champêtre_ and Mrs. Graham’s balloon, June 16, 1838. ‘A
_fête-champêtre_ to the Foreign Ambassadors,’ July 21, 1838. Admission
5s. to 10s. 6d. Fête for the benefit of the Poles, 1840 (_Bell’s Life_,
August 23, 1840).
{4a} See note by Cecil Howard and Clement Scott in Blanchard’s _Life_.
Some details are differently given by Boase, _Dict. Nat. Biog._, art.
‘Nicholson.’ But I am not attempting a critical biography of this
worthy.
{5} It is sometimes stated that Simpson bought the property in 1846, and
put in James Ellis to act as manager. But other accounts speak of Ellis
as the real lessee, 1846–1849, and this seems to be correct, because,
when Ellis became bankrupt in 1849, execution for £8,000 was levied upon
Cremorne. Ellis’s unsecured debts amounted to over £16,000, of which
£250 was due to a confiding Cremorne waiter. The rent of the gardens had
been £582 per annum, and there was an unpaid gas-bill for £665. Simpson
was certainly proprietor from 1850 onwards to 1861.
{8b} Among the miscellaneous amusements of this period are: 1849, circus
from Astley’s; storming of Mooltan, military and pyrotechnic spectacle.
1850, dahlia show. 1851, Franconi’s circus; the Bosjesmans, the bushmen
of South Africa.
{10b} Creole choristers under Cave and Mackney in 1846. Miss Love also
sang in 1846. In 1851 Lambert Edwards became popular as a comic singer.
He published a _Cremorne Song-Book_, which, both for matter and metre, is
trying reading.
{14b} A married woman named Powell, who called herself ‘Madame Geneive
(_sic_), the Female Blondin,’ was killed by falling from the rope on July
20, 1863, at Aston Park, Birmingham. The occasion was a Forester’s fête,
and she was paid £15. The incident was a particularly shocking one, for
the rope is said to have been old and decayed, and the poor woman, for
certain reasons, ought to have been anywhere at the time rather than on
the tight-rope.
{15} Under Ellis in 1849 there had been a less elaborate ‘Eglinton
Tournament’ managed by Batty, of Astley’s.
{16a} A good account in _Illustrated London News_ for July 18, 1863,
apparently by Sala; also _Illustrated Times_ of same date. In 1864 Smith
gave a monster Belgian fête to the members of the Garde civique of
Belgium. On the afternoon of July 14, 1866, there was a pretty juvenile
fête, during which a number of miniature balloons were sent up to please
the children.
{16c} G. Bryan, _Chelsea_ (1869), p. 169; Walford, _Old and New London_,
v. 86. In July, 1864, Eugène Godard’s huge Montgolfier balloon ascended
from Cremorne, and came down in the East Greenwich marshes. It was
heated by air, there being in the centre of the car a stove filled with
rye-straw compressed into blocks. An earlier London ascent of a
Montgolfier balloon took place at the Surrey Zoological Gardens (see
_infra_). For Godard’s balloon, see _Illustrated London News_ for July
30, 1864; Coxwell, _My Life_, second series, p. 207 _f._, with picture of
the balloon. In August, 1865, Delamarne’s sailing balloon, L’Espérance,
was shown. It was about 200 feet long, and had screw propellers and a
rudder set in motion by machinery.
{19} Entertainments under Baum: Simmons’s balloon ascent, June 29, 1874;
Audrian the dog-faced man, and his son, from a Russian forest, 1874;
Boisset family, gymnasts, 1874; De Vere, conjuror, 1877; Doughty’s
performing dogs, 1877.
{25b} About 1809 the Manor-House had been occupied by James Pilton,
manufacturer of ornamental works for country residences (fences,
summer-houses, etc.), and the grounds were neatly laid out as an open-air
showroom, with a small menagerie and aviaries. A view of the garden and
house from the _Gentleman’s Magazine_ is here reproduced. See also
Faulkner’s _Chelsea_, 1829, ii., p. 215.
NEW RANELAGH AND MINOR VAUXHALL, MILLBANK.—These gardens were near the
river, and occupied a small space between the Belgrave Docks Wharf and
Ranelagh Road. Part of the engineering works of James Simpson and Co.,
Limited (101, Grosvenor Road, Pimlico), now covers the site. They were
advertised from about 1809. In the summer months (1809, 1811) there were
‘grand galas’ and balls, with concerts, and fireworks by Signora Hengler,
the fireworker to Vauxhall Gardens. The admission tickets for the balls
were neatly executed (see pp. 27, 28), but cost only 2s. 6d., and the
dancers can hardly have been of the rank of the famous Chelsea
‘Ranelagh,’ which had come to an end in 1803. In 1810 and 1811 the
proprietors gave a silver cup for sailing matches. The gardens retained
some popularity till about 1829 (_Picture of London_; tickets, cuttings,
etc., in the writer’s collection).
THE FLASK, EBURY SQUARE.—An old tavern, of which there are various
mentions in the eighteenth century (Crace, _Catal._, p. 311, No. 59;
Beaver’s _Chelsea_, p. 307). In the thirties it had a tea-garden with a
colonnade overgrown by creepers running round two sides of the garden,
and a fine fountain. A skittle club played in the garden or in a covered
pavilion adjoining. The tavern seems to have been demolished about 1868,
when Ebury Square was partly rebuilt. There is an engraving of ‘The
Flask Tavern,’ showing the garden, published in 1837 by J. Moore, from a
drawing by H. Jones.
{30} Hampton’s balloon, and Graham’s, which came into collision with the
Exhibition, June 16, 1851 (Turnor’s _Astra Castra_, p. 220).
{37a} In 1828 Pickering Place and Terrace, close by, were built.
{42} The site is near the filter-beds of the New River Company.
The Eel-Pie (or Sluice) House Tavern has sometimes been confused with the
Sluice House proper, a wooden building contiguous to it. The New River
Company had one of their sluices here, and the house was tenanted by two
of their walksmen or inspectors; view in Hone’s _Every Day Book_, 1826,
p. 696.
{44a} Sylvester (or Silvester) was one of the claimants to the invention
of the optical ghost illusion well known as ‘Pepper’s Ghost’ at the
Polytechnic (Frost’s _Lives of the Conjurors_, pp. 314, 329).
{46a} Boyne’s _Trade Tokens_, ed. Williamson, ii., p. 817, No. 61. An
eighteenth-century proprietor named Holmes died in 1744.
{47} On August 29, 1811, Sadler ascended from the Mermaid with Mr. H.
Beaufoy; _cf. Tyssen Library Catalogue_ (Hackney, 1888), pp. 6, 8,
_Journal of Aerial Voyage_, etc.
{50} There were already pony races for silver cups in August, 1836, when
2,000 people on one day visited the gardens (_Bell’s Life_).
{51} _Cf._ Frost, _Circus Life_, p. 143.
{55b} Geary was the designer of the absurd statue of George IV.—the
‘Griffin’ of its day—that formerly stood at King’s Cross. He also
designed one of the first gin-palaces in London (his name still appears
cut in conspicuous letters as the architect of the Bell public-house
(built 1835), No. 259, Pentonville Road), but afterwards repented and was
one of the enthusiastic teetotallers who welcomed J. B. Gough on his
visit to England, and planned a bazaar for a temperance fête at the
Surrey Gardens in 1851 (Miller’s _St. Pancras_, p. 69).
{56} When Lanza became bankrupt. He was the father of Rosalie Lanza,
the operatic singer, and had some pupils who became well known. See
Boase, _Biog. Dict._, _s.v._ Lanza.
{57b} I find Rouse first mentioned as landlord of the Eagle in 1824, but
the Eagle tavern was already in existence in November 1822, when a dinner
took place there to welcome Henry Hunt, M.P., on his release from prison
(_Jackson’s Oxford Journal_, November 16, 1822). A noisy crowd assembled
in the neighbourhood and insisted on Hunt making a speech from the
dining-room window.
{58a} A letter from Harris written the day before his ascent, and
enclosing a ticket to his balloon-makers to witness his ascent, is in the
writer’s collection.
{58b} He was the first proprietor (1837) of the Bower Saloon in Stangate
Street, Westminster Bridge Road—a small theatre which nearly degenerated
into a ‘penny gaff’ (Blanchard’s _Life_, p. 40, and bills of the Bower
Saloon). There is a fairly common lithograph, ‘The Bower, Duke’s Arms,
Stangate Street,’ showing a sort of garden entrance.
{59a} On this lady and some of the tavern-concert singers of the time
there is a rather breezy article in _The Town_ for August 18, 1838.
{59b} Now No. 128, Pentonville Road. Till about the seventies it had a
garden space beside it, facing the road. Another place in the City Road,
the GREEN GATE TAVERN (now No. 220), preserved almost up to the nineties
a small garden with its boxes and ‘a few old trees that still, in spite
of fog and smoke, struggled into life as the summer came round, and
formed a pleasant contrast to the dingy neighbourhood by which they were
surrounded’ (H. Fancourt in the _Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News_,
May 9, 1891). In the early fifties the Green Gate had a concert-room and
a stage. A rough woodcut in the _Paul Pry_ journal for 1854 shows a
theatrical performance going on. Tall-hatted gentlemen are seated in the
stalls, but in the pit or ‘promenade’ behind the audience is of a coster
character. There is a water-colour drawing of the Green Gate by T. H.
Sheperd, 1852, in the Crace Collection, _Catalogue_, p. 607, No. 4.
{60} Glindon was famous for his ‘Biddy the Basket-woman’ and his
‘Literary Dustman.’
{61a} It was generally open on Sundays for ‘promenading.’
{62b} Westland Marston, _Our Recent Actors_, ii., p. 261. Mr. Sala says
that off the stage he was shy and sensitive.
{64a} This was on the site of an older building in the Eagle grounds,
known at one time as the Olympic Pavilion, and opened in 1840.
{64b} He is said (Baker, _London Stage_) to have given £21,000 for the
Eagle, but I believe the sum paid was nearer £14,000.
{67} SOME SINGERS AND ACTORS AT THE EAGLE.—Miss Tunstall sang in 1838,
etc. Sims Reeves sang for a fortnight only—in 1839—at the garden
concerts, under the name of Johnson.
Thérèse Cushine (_d._ 1856), the dancer, appeared first at the (old)
Garrick and afterwards at the Eagle. She married Milano, the harlequin
and ballet-master, who was at the Eagle _circa_ 1847.
Harriet Coveney, from _circa_ 1840; Miss Carlotta Leclercq and other
members of the Leclercq family; Harry Boleno, the pantomimist; Miss C.
Parkes, columbine, 1851; T. Mead, the actor, 1859; Herbert Campbell (_d._
1904) in pantomime in the seventies; Baldwin, baritone singer (from 1833)
was chorus-master.
{70b} The Globe club was still active in 1840 (Colburn’s _Kalendar_,
1840, p. 164).
{75} The woodcut on Ireland’s bill announcing the race was taken from an
old block representing, not Garratt, but Barry.
{81b} The Montpelier Club afterwards (from 1840, or earlier) had their
ground at the Beehive, Walworth. In 1844 the Beehive ground was required
for building purposes, and the club obtained a lease (March, 1845) of the
Oval, and in a year or two was merged in the Surrey County Club. The
Beehive public-house, now 62, Carter Street (on the east of the site of
the Surrey Gardens), represents an old tavern (1779 or earlier), which
had about five acres of ground attached to it, with a tea-garden. In
these gardens the balloon of the ill-fated Harris (see _supra_, p. 58)
was exhibited in 1824 (_cf._ H. H. Montgomery’s _Kennington_, p. 169
_f._). The old Beehive tavern was a long, low building with a veranda.
In the garden was a maze and the original proprietor’s cottage, connected
with the adjoining fields by a bridge over a stream. Mr. Wemmick’s
Walworth residence in _Great Expectations_—a toy-house with a bridge—may
be reminiscent of this (_cf._ H. H. Montgomery’s _Old Cricket and
Cricketers_, London [1890], p. 44 _f._).
{82} At one time, apparently in the forties, there was a theatre in the
gardens, at which Jefferini (Jeffreys), the long-legged clown, performed
(Blanchard’s _Life_, p. 51).
{83} Except in its last year (1877). A ball-room was built in 1850.
{86a}
{91} SITE.—The Gardens were soon built over, but the site can be made
out with little difficulty. There were three entrances: (1) (approached
from the Walworth Road) in Manor Place; (2) and (3) (approached from the
Kennington Park Road) in Penton Place and in New Street. The Manor Place
entrance was about where that street is now crossed by Penton Place. The
_continuation_ of Manor Place is now on the site or boundary of the
gardens.
The Penton Place entrance was about where that street is met by Amelia
Street.
The New Street entrance was at the end of the street where it meets the
continuation of Manor Place.
Part of Delverton Road, Suffield Road, Tarver Road, and Berryfield Road
are also on the site. The Surrey Gardens Hotel, at the corner of
Delverton Road and Manor Place, alone commemorates the vanished Zoo.
***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CREMORNE AND THE LATER LONDON
GARDENS***
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