CHAPTER EIGHT

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

This chapter contains operating principles, serv- NOTE

ice procedures and test procedures for all electrical Where differences occur relating to the
and ignition components. Information regarding the United Kingdom (U.K.) models they are
battery and spark plugs are covered in Chapter identified. If there is no (U.K.) designa-
tion relating to a procedure, photo or
Three.
illustration it is identical to the United
The electrical system includes the following sys- States (U.S.) models.
tems:
a. Charging system.
b. Ignition system. NOTE
c. Starting system. Most motorcycle dealers and parts sup-
d. Lighting system. pliers will not accept the return of any
electrical part. When testing electrical
e. Directional signal system. components, three general require-
f. Switches. ments to make are: (1) that you follow
g. Various electrical components. the test procedures as described in this
Tables 1-5 are located at the end of this chapter. chapter; (2) that your test equipment is
 working properly; and (3) that you are compound should fill the entire inner area of the
familiar with the test equipment and its connector. On multi-pin connectors, also pack the
operation. If a test result shows that a backside of both the male and female side with the
component is defective, have a Suzuki compound to prevent moisture from entering the
dealer retest the component to verify backside of the connector. After the connector is
your test results prior to purchasing the fully packed, wipe the exterior of all excessive com-
new part.
pound.
Get into the practice of cleaning and sealing all
ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS electrical connectors every time they are unplugged.
This may prevent a breakdown on the road and also
The Suzuki Interceptor is equipped with many save you time when troubleshooting a circuit.
electrical components, connectors and wires. Corro- Always make sure all ground connections are free
sion-causing moisture can enter these electrical con- of corrosion and are tight at various locations on the
nectors and cause poor electrical connections leading bike.
to component failure. Troubleshooting an electrical
circuit with one or more corroded electrical connec-
tors can be time-consuming and frustrating. BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL
When reconnecting electrical connectors, pack
them in a dielectric grease compound. Dielectric Some of the component replacement procedures
grease is especially formulated for sealing and wa- and some of the test procedures in this chapter
terproofing electrical connectors and will not inter- require disconnecting the battery negative (-) lead
fere with the current flow through the electrical as a safety precaution.
connectors. Use only this compound or an equiva- 1. Remove the bolt and disconnect the battery nega
lent designed for this specific purpose. Do not use a tive (Figure 1) lead.
substitute that may interfere with the current flow
2. Reach into the battery case and move the negative
within the electrical connector. Do not use silicone
lead out of the way so it will not accidentally make
sealant.
contact with the battery negative terminal.
After cleaning both the male and female connec-
3. Connect the battery negative lead to the terminal
tors, make sure they are thoroughly dry. Pack one of
and tighten the bolt securely.
the connector halves with dielectric grease com-
pound before joining the 2 connector halves. On
multi-pin connectors, pack the male side and on
single-wire connectors, pack the female side. Use a CHARGING SYSTEM
good-size glob so that it will squish out when the two
halves are pushed together. For best results, the The charging system consists of the battery, alter-
nator and a solid-state voltage regulator/rectifier
(Figure 2).
Alternating current generated by the alternator is
rectified to direct current. The voltage regulator
maintains constant voltage to the battery and electri-
cal loads (lights, ignition, etc.) regardless engine
speed and load.
A malfunction in the charging system generally
causes the battery to remain undercharged. To pre-
vent damage to the alternator and the regulator/rec-
tifier when testing and repairing the charging
system, note the following precautions: 1. Always
disconnect the negative battery cable, as described
in this chapter, before removing a component from
the charging system.
2. When it is necessary to charge the battery, remove Leakage Test
the battery from the motorcycle and recharge it as
described in Chapter Three. Perform this test prior to performing the output
3. Inspect the physical condition of the battery. test to determine if some electrical component is
Look for bulges or cracks in the case, leaking elec remaining on and draining the battery.
trolyte or corrosion build-up.
NOTE
4. Check the wiring in the charging system for signs
Due to the location of the battery and
of chafing, deterioration or other damage. its leads it is necessary to remove the
5. Check the wiring for corroded or loose connec battery from the motorcycle to per-
tions. Clean, tighten or reconnect as required. form this test.

CHARGING CIRCUIT
Ignition
switch
Color Code
Y Yellow
B Black or Black/white O
Orange or Orange/black R
Regulator/rectifier Red or Red/white

Load

AC generator Battery
1. Remove the battery as described under Battery bike while you work on the right-hand
Removal/Installation in Chapter Three. side along with the meter while having
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. access to the throttle grip. This will less-
en the possibility of getting burned on
NOTE one of the HOT mufflers.
Make sure there is a good electrical con-
nection at both ends of the jumper wire. 1. Start the engine and let it reach normal operating
Otherwise the test results may be faulty. temperature. Shut off the engine.
2. Connect a portable tachometer following the
3. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive manufacturer's instructions.
(+) lead and the battery positive (+) terminal. 3. Remove the screw (A, Figure 3) securing the
4. Connect an ammeter between the battery nega battery positive (+) cable terminal protector, remove
tive (-) lead and the negative (-) terminal of the the protector (B, Figure 3).
battery. 4. Restart the engine and let it idle.
5. The ammeter should read less than 0.1 mA. If the
amperage is greater, this indicates there is a voltage WARNING
drain in the system that will discharge the battery. The exhaust system is HOT. Protect
6. Install the battery as described in Chapter Three. your hands while connecting the test
leads to the battery terminals.

Charging System Output Test 5. Have the assistant connect a 0-20 DC voltmeter
positive test lead to the positive (+) test lead to the
Whenever a charging system trouble is suspected, battery positive terminal (Figure 4) on the left-hand
make sure the battery is fully charged and in good side of the bike.
condition before going any further. Clean and test 6. Attach the voltmeter negative (-) test lead to the
the battery as described in Chapter Three. Make sure negative terminal (Figure 1) on the left-hand side of
all electrical connectors are tight and free of corro- the bike (Figure 5).
sion.
7. Increase engine speed to 5,000 rpm. The voltage
NOTE reading should be between 14-15 V. If the voltage is
This procedure requires the use of an less than 14 V or greater than 15 V, inspect the
assistant due to the location of the bat- alternator no-load performance and voltage regula
tery. Have an assistant attach the posi- tor as described in this chapter. The voltage regula
tive test lead on the left-hand side of the tor/rectifier are separate from the alternator and
either component can replaced individually if faulty
8. If the charging voltage is too high; the voltage
regulator/rectifier is probably at fault.
9. After the test is completed; shut off the engine
and disconnect the voltmeter and portable tachome
ter.
10. Install the battery positive (+) cable terminal
protector (B, Figure 3) and tighten the screw se
curely.

Charging System No-load Test

1. Remove the rider's seat and the frame side covers

(A, Figure 6) as described in Chapter Thirteen.
2. Start the engine and let it reach normal operating
temperature. Shut off the engine.
3. Connect a portable tachometer following the
manufacturer's instructions.
4. Locate the alternator's 3 individual electrical 3. Locate the 3 individual electrical connectors con
connectors containing yellow wires (B, Figure 6) taining yellow wires (B, Figure 6) and disconnect
and disconnect all 3 wire connectors. all 3 wire connectors.
5., Restart the engine and let it idle. 4. Set the pocket tester to the x Ik ohms scale.
5A. On 1985-1991 models, refer to Figure 8 for test
NOTE connections and values.
In Step 7 connect the voltmeter test leads 5B. On 1992-on models, refer to Figure 9 for test
to the alternator side of the electrical connections and values.
connectors disconnected in Step 4. 6. If any of the meter readings differ from the stated
values, first check the condition of the battery in the
6. Increase engine speed to 5,000 rpm. multimeter; an old battery can cause inaccurate read
7. Connect a 0-150 V (AC) voltmeter between two ings. If the readings are still incorrect with a new
of the yellow wire connectors as shown in Figure 7. battery, replace the regulator/rectifier unit as de
Voltage should be above 65V (AC). Move one of the scribed in this chapter.
voltmeter probes to the other (3rd) yellow wire 7. If the voltage regulator/rectifier check out okay,
connector and check voltage again. Voltage should install the frame side covers and the rider's seat and
again be above 65V (AC). as described in Chapter Thirteen.
8. If any test indicates less than specified voltage,
the alternator is faulty and must be replaced.
9. Shut off the engine. Voltage Regulator/Rectifier
Removal/Installation
10. After completing the test, disconnect the volt
meter and portable tachometer. 1. Remove the rider's seat and the frame side covers
11. Reconnect the alternator's 3 individual yellow (A, Figure 6) as described in Chapter Thirteen.
wire electrical connectors going to the voltage regu
lator/rectifier. Make sure connectors are corrosion
free and tight.
12. Install the frame side covers and the rider's seat
and as described in Chapter Thirteen.

VOLTAGE REGULATOR/RECTIFIER

Testing

Suzuki specifies the use of a specific multi-meter for

accurate testing of the regulator/rectifier unit. The
specified meter is the Suzuki Pocket Tester (part No.
09900-25002). Because of the different resistance
value characteristics of the semiconductors used in this
meter, the use of another meter may give you a different
reading. This meter can be purchased through a Suzuki
dealer or you can remove the regulator/rectifier unit
and have the dealer test it for you.
1. Remove the rider's seat and the frame side covers
(A, Figure 6) as described in Chapter Thirteen.
2. Disconnect the regulator/rectifier unit 6-pin elec
trical connector containing 5 wires. On 1985-1991
models the wire colors are; 2 red, 1 orange and 2
black/white. On 1992-on models the wire colors are;
2 red/white, 1 orange/black and 2 black/white.
2. Disconnect the battery negative (-) lead (A, Fig ALTERNATOR
ure 10) as described in this chapter.
3. Disconnect the regulator/rectifier unit 6-pin elec
trical connector containing 5 wires. On 1985-1991 The alternator is a form of electrical generator in
models the wire colors are; 2 red, 1 orange and 2 which a magnetized field called a rotor revolves
black/white. On 1992-on models the wire colors are; around a set of stationary coils called a stator assem-
2 red/white, 1 orange/black and 2 black/white. Also bly. As the rotor revolves, alternating current is
disconnect the 3 individual yellow wire electrical induced in the stator coils. The current is then recti-
connectors. fied to direct current and is used to operate the
electrical systems on the motorcycle and to keep the
4. Remove the bolts located under the voltage regu
battery charged. The rotor is permanently magnet-
lator/rectifier (B, Figure 10) which attach regula
ized.
tor/rectifier to the frame.
5. Carefully pull the electrical wiring harness out
through the frame, noting its path and remove the
voltage regulator/rectifier assembly from the frame. Rotor Testing
6. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting
the following:
The rotor is permanently magnetized and cannot
a. Tighten the mounting bolts securely.
be tested except by replacing it with a known good
b. Make sure all electrical connections are tight one. The rotor can lose magnetism from old age or
and free of corrosion. a sharp hit. If defective, the rotor must be replaced;
c. Connect the battery negative (-) lead. it cannot be re-magnetized.
 ALTERNATOR

1. Rotor 6. Metal clamp

2. Woodruff key 7. Metal clamp
3. Rotor bolt 8. Metal clamp
4. Allen bolt 9. Stator assembly
5. Ignition pulse generator
Stator Testing 6. Use an ohmmeter set at R x 1 to check continuity
between ground and each yellow terminal on the
1. Remove the rider's seat and the frame side covers alternator stator side of the connector.
(A, Figure 6) as described in Chapter Thirteen. 7. Replace the stator assembly if any yellow termi
nal shows continuity (indicated resistance) to
2. Start the engine and let it reach normal operating
ground. This would indicate an short within the
temperature. Shut off the engine.
stator coil winding.
3. Locate the alternator's 3 individual electrical
connectors containing yellow wires (B, Figure 6) NOTE
and disconnect all 3 wire connectors. Prior to replacing the stator assembly,
check the electrical wires to and within
4. Connect an ohmmeter set at R x 1 (to check the electrical connector for any opens
continuity) between two of the yellow terminals on or poor connections.
the alternator stator side of the connector (Figure
11). Move one of the probes to the third yellow 8. If the stator assembly fails either of these tests, it
terminal. must be replaced as described in this chapter.
5. Replace the stator assembly if any yellow termi
nal indicates no continuity (infinite resistance) to the Stator Assembly
other two yellow terminals. This would indicate an Removal/Installation
open in the stator coil winding.
The stator assembly and the ignition pulse gener-
ator^) are attached to the back side of the alternator
cover.
Refer to Figure 12 for this procedure.

NOTE
Some of the photos in this procedure are
shown with the engine removedfrom the
frame and partially disassembled for
clarity. It is not necessary to remove the
engine to perform this procedure.

1. Remove the rider's seat and the frame side covers

(A, Figure 6) as described in Chapter Thirteen.
2. Remove the front footpeg assembly (A, Figure
13) as described under Front Footpeg Assembly
Removal!Installation in Chapter Thirteen.
3. Remove the bolts securing the secondary drive
cover (B, Figure 13) and remove the cover.
4. Locate the alternator's 3 individual electrical
connectors containing yellow wires (B, Figure 6)
and disconnect all 3 wire connectors.
5. Remove the starter motor as described in this
chapter. The alternator stator electrical harness is
routed under the starter motor and cover.
6. Remove the bolts securing the alternator cover
(Figure 14) and remove the cover and gasket. Note
the following:
a. Carefully pull the electrical wiring harness out
through the bottom of the starter motor cavity
in the crankcase and through the opening in the
side of the crankcase (Figure 15).
 b. Don't lose the locating dowels.
c. Note the location of the gasket under the upper
rear bolt on the cover. This gasket must be
reinstalled in the same location during installa
tion of the cover.
d. Note the location of the wiring harness clamps
(Figure 16) under the cover bolts.
7. Place several shop cloths on the workbench to
protect the chrome finish of the alternator cover.
Turn the alternator cover upside down on these
cloths.
8. Remove the screws and small metal clamps (A,
Figure 17) securing the stator assembly wiring har
ness to the alternator cover. Note the location of each
of these metal clamps because they must all be
reinstalled in the same location.

NOTE
The 1985-1987 models are equipped
with 2 ignition signal generators. On
1988-on models there is only one signal
generator.

9. Remove the other screw(s) securing the ignition

signal generator(s), (B, Figure 17) to the alternator
cover.
10. Remove the bolts securing the stator assembly
(C, Figure 17) to the cover. Carefully pull the rubber
grommet (D, Figure 17) loose from the cover and
remove the stator and ignition signal generator as
sembly from the cover.

NOTE
The stator assembly and the ignition
signal generator(s) are removed as an
assembly, but they are 2 separate parts
and can be replaced individually. The 2
separate wiring harnesses are covered
by a single insulating tube as they exit
the cover. This insulating tube can be
removed and the individual parts re-
placed. Carefully wrap the 2 wiring har-
nesses with a quality electrical tape
after replacing one of the parts.

11. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting

the following:
a. Tighten the bolts securing the alternator stator
assembly securely.
b. All small metal clamps (A, Figure 17) securing
the stator assembly and ignition signal gener
ator^) wiring harness to the cover must be
reinstalled and must be installed in the correct
 location. These clamps secure the wiring har-
ness to the cover and away from the spinning
rotor. If these wires come in contact with the
rotor they will be damaged.
c. Install the gasket (A, Figure 18) under the
upper rear bolt on the cover. Failure to install
this gasket will result in and oil leak.
d. Make sure the rubber grommet (B, Figure 18)
is installed correctly in the cover and seats
tightly up against the surface of the crankcase.
e. Make sure the electrical connectors are free of
corrosion and are tight.
f. Install the locating dowels (A, Figure 19) and
a new gasket (B, Figure 19).
g. Be sure to install the wiring harness clamps
(Figure 16) under the cover bolts in the correct
location.

Rotor
Removal/Installation

Refer to Figure 12 for this procedure.

NOTE
This procedure are shown with the en-
gine removed from the frame and par-
tially disassembled for clarity. It is not
necessary to remove the engine to per-
form this procedure.
1. Remove the alternator stator assembly as de
scribed in this chapter.
2. Remove the starter idler gear No. 2 and its shaft
(Figure 20).
3. Withdraw the No. 1 idler gear shaft (A, Figure
21) then remove the No. 1 idler gear (B, Figure 21).
4A. If the engine is still in the frame; shift the
transmission into gear and have an assistant apply
the rear brake. This will prevent the alternator rotor
from turning in the next step.
4B. If the engine has been removed; place an open-
end wrench onto the hex fitting (A, Figure 22) on
the rotor to prevent the alternator rotor from turning
in the next step.

NOTE
In Step 5, do not remove the rotor bolt.
Break it loose, then loosen it several
turns and leave it in place (A, Figure
23). The bolt must remain installed be-
cause it is used in conjunction with the
rotor remover tool in Step 6.
5. Loosen, but do not remove, the alternator rotor 13. Inspect the rotor key way (Figure 26) for wear
bolt (B, Figure 22). Loosen it several turns and leave or damage. If damage is severe, replace the rotor.
it in place. 14. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting
the following:
CAUTION
Don't try to remove the rotor without a. Use an aerosol electrical contact cleaner and
a puller; any attempt to do so will clean all oil residue from the crankshaft taper
ultimately lead to some form of dam-
age to the engine and/or rotor. Many
oftermarket pullers are available from
motorcycle dealers or mail order
houses. The cost of one of these
pullers is low and it makes an excel-
lent addition to any mechanic's tool
box. If you can't buy or borrow one,
have the dealer remove the rotor.

6. Install the rotor removal tool, Suzuki special tool

(part No. 09930-30720) onto the threads of the rotor
(B, Figure 23).
7. Hold the rotor remover tool (A, Figure 24) with
a 36 mm open-end wrench and turn the center bolt
(B, Figure 24). Turn the center bolt until the rotor
disengages from the crankshaft taper.

NOTE
If the rotor is difficult to remove, strike
the end of the puller (not the rotor as it
will be damaged) firmly with a hammer.
This will usually break it loose.

CAUTION
If normal rotor removal attempts fail, do
not force the puller as the threads may
be stripped from the rotor causing ex-
pensive damage. Take the bike to a
dealer and have the rotor removed.

8. Unscrew and remove the rotor puller from the

rotor.
9. Unscrew the bolt from the crankshaft and remove
it from the rotor.
10. Reach behind the rotor and hold onto the starter
clutch gear and remove the rotor and the starter
clutch as an assembly from the crankshaft.
11. It is not necessary to remove the starter clutch
from the back side of the rotor. If inspection is
necessary, refer to Starter Gears in this chapter.
12. Inspect the inside of the rotor (Figure 25) for
small bolts, washers or other metal "trash" that may
have been picked up by the magnets. These small
metal bits can cause severe damage to the alternator
stator assembly.
 where the rotor slides onto it and the matching As the alternator rotor is turned by the crankshaft
tapered surface in the rotor. This is to assure a the raised tab passes the pickup coil(s) and a signal
good tight fit of the rotor onto the crankshaft. is sent to the ignition unit. This signal turns the
b. If removed, install and center the Woodruff key ignitor unit transistor alternately ON and OFF. As
(Figure 27) in the crankshaft slot. the transistor is turned ON and OFF, the current
c. Apply red Loctite (No. 271) to the rotor bolt passing through the primary windings of the ignition
coil, is also turned ON and OFF. Thus it induces the
threads prior to installation.
secondary current in the ignition coil secondary
d. Tighten the rotor bolt (A, Figure 23) to the windings to fire the spark plugs.
torque specification listed in Table 1.

Transistorized Ignition System Precautions

TRANSISTORIZED IGNITION SYSTEM
Certain measures must be taken to protect the
The Intruder is equipped with a solid-state, tran- ignition system. Instantaneous damage to the semi-
sistorized ignition system that uses no breaker conductors in the system will occur if the following
points. The ignition circuit is shown Figure 28. precautions are not observed.
The signal generator consists of a raised tab on the 1. Never disconnect any of the electrical connec
alternator rotor and signal generator(s), attached to tions while the engine is running.
the alternator cover next to the alternator stator coil 2. Keep all connections between the various units
assembly. clean and tight. Be sure that the wiring connectors
are pushed together firmly to help keep out moisture.
Also pack the connectors with dielectric compound
as described at the beginning of this chapter.
3. Do not substitute another type of ignition coil.

Troubleshooting

Problems with the transistorized ignition system fall

into one of the following categories. See Table 2.
a. Weak spark.
b. No spark.

Ignition Signal Generator

Testing

NOTE
The 1985-1987 models are equipped
with 2 ignition signal generators. On
1988-on models there is only one signal
generator.

\. Remove the seat and the frame side covers (A,

Figure 6) as described in Chapter Thirteen. 2A.
On 1985-1987 models, disconnect the 4-pin
electrical connector containing 4 signal generator
wires (1 green, 1 blue, 1 black and 1 yellow wire)
from the ignitor unit (Figure 29). 2B. On 1988-on
models, disconnect the signal generators 2-pin
electrical connector (1 green and 1 blue wire) from
the ignitor unit.
IGNITION CIRCUIT

Color Code
B Black B/W Black/White
W White B/Y Black/Yellow
R Red R/W Red/White
G Green O/W Orange/White
Y Yellow
L Blue
O Orange

Color Code
W White B/W Black/White
R Red B/Y Black/Yellow
G Green R/W Red/White
L Blue O/W Orange/White
O Orange
3. Use an ohmmeter set at R x 1000 and check the 5. Install the alternator stator as described in this
resistance between the following wires in the signal chapter.
generator side of the electrical connector.
a. 1985-1987 models: between the green and blue Ignition Coil
terminals and between the black and yellow Testing
terminals.
b. 1988-on models: between the green and blue The ignition coil is a form of transformer which
terminals. develops the high voltage required to jump the spark
The specified resistance is listed in Table 3. plug gap. The only maintenance required is that of
4. If the resistance shown is less than specified or keeping the electrical connections clean and tight
there is no indicated resistance (infinite resistance) and occasionally checking to see that the coils are
between the 2 wires, the signal generator has an open mounted securely.
or short and must be replaced as described in this If the condition of the coil(s) is doubtful, there are
chapter. several checks which may be made.
5. If the signal generator(s) checks out okay, recon
nect the electrical connector. Make sure the electrical NOTE
The spark plug must ground against a
connector is free of corrosion and is tight.
piece of bare metal on the engine or
6. Install the frame covers and the rider's seat. frame. If necessary, carefully scrape
away some of the engine paint.
Ignition Signal Generator First as a quick check of coil condition, disconnect
Removal/Installation the high voltage lead from the spark plug. Remove
one of the spark plugs from one of the cylinder heads
The alternator stator assembly and the ignition as described under Spark Plugs in Chapter Three.
signal generator(s) are removed as an assembly, but Connect a new or known good spark plug to the high
they are 2 separate parts and can be replaced individu- voltage lead and place the spark plug base on a good
ally. The 2 separate wiring harnesses are covered by a ground like the engine cylinder head. Position the
single insulating tube as they exit the alternator cover. spark plug so you can see the electrodes.
1. Remove the alternator stator as described in this
chapter. WARNING
2. Remove the covering from the electrical har If it is necessary to hold the high voltage
nesses and separate the 2 harnesses. lead, do so with an insulated pair of
pliers. The high voltage generated by
3. Replace the ignition signal generator(s).
the signal generator could produce se-
4. Carefully wrap the 2 wiring harnesses with a rious or fatal shocks.
quality electrical tape after replacing one of the parts.
Turn the engine over with the starter. If a fat blue
spark occurs the coil is in good condition; if not
proceed as follows. Make sure that you are using a
known good spark plug for this test. If the spark plug
used is defective the test results will be incorrect.
Reinstall the spark plug in the cylinder head and
connect the high voltage lead.

NOTE
In order to get accurate resistance
measurements the coil must be warm
(minimum temperature is 20° C [68°
F]). I/necessary, start the engine and let
it warm up to normal operating tem-
perature. If the engine will not start,
 warm the ignition coils with a portable 4. Disconnect the primary leads (A, Figure 31)
hairdryer. from the ignition coil.
1. Remove the rider's seat as described in Chapter 5. Disconnect the high voltage lead (B, Figure 31)
Thirteen. from the spark plug.
2. Disconnect the battery negative lead as described 6. Remove the bolts (C, Figure 31) securing the
in this chapter. ignition coil to the frame and remove the coil.
3. Remove the fuel tank as described under Fuel 7. If necessary, repeat Steps 4-6 for the other igni
Tank Removal!Installation in Chapter Seven. tion coil.
4. Disconnect all ignition coil wires (including the 8. Install by reversing these removal steps. Make
spark plug leads from the spark plugs) before testing. sure all electrical connections are free of corrosion
and are tight.
NOTE
In Step 5 and Step 6, the resistance
specification is not as important as the Igniter Unit Testing
fact that there is continuity between the
terminals. If the ignition coil windings
are in good condition the resistance val- Complete testing of the ignitor unit requires a
ues will be near those specified. special Suzuki electronic test tool (Ignitor Checker)
and should be tested by a Suzuki dealer as these tools
5. Use an ohmmeter set at R x 1 and measure the are expensive. If the ignition signal generator(s) and
primary coil resistance between the positive (+) and the ignition coils are working correctly, then this
the negative (-) terminals on the top of the ignition simple test can be run to confirm that the ignitor unit
coil (Figure 30). The specified resistance value is is working properly.
listed in Table 3. The dealer will either test the ignitor unit with the
6. Use an ohmmeter set at R x 1,000 measure the special tool or perform a "remove and replace" test
secondary coil resistance between the spark plug lead to see if the ignitor unit is faulty. The "remove and
and one of the primary coil terminals (Figure 30). The replace" test is expensive if you purchase a new
specified resistance value is listed in Table 3. ignitor unit and it does not solve your particular
7. Repeat Step 5 and Step 6 for the other ignition ignition system problem. Remember, you cannot
coil. return the ignitor unit for refund. Most motorcycle
8. If the coil resistance does not meet (or come close dealers will not accept returns on any electrical
to) either of these specifications, the coil must be component since they could be damaged internally
replaced. If the coil exhibits visible damage, it even though they look okay externally.
should be replaced as described in this chapter. Make sure all connections between the various
9. Reconnect all ignition coil wires to the ignition components are clean and tight. Be sure that the
coil. wiring connectors are pushed together firmly and
10. Install the fuel tank as described in Chapter
Seven.
11. Install the rider's seat as described in Chapter
Thirteen.

Ignition Coil
Removal/Installation

1. Remove the rider's seat as described in Chapter

Thirteen.
2. Disconnect the battery negative lead as described
in this chapter.
3. Remove the fuel tank as described under Fuel
Tank Removal!Installation in Chapter Seven.
packed with a dielectric compound to help keep out WARNING
moisture. If it is necessary to hold the high volt-
1. Remove the rider's seat and the frame side covers age lead, do so with an insulated pair
as described in Chapter Thirteen. of pliers. The high voltage generated by
the ignitor unit could produce serious
2. Test the ignition signal generator and both igni or fatal shocks.
tion coils as described in this chapter prior to per
forming this test. If any one of these units is faulty, c. Turn the engine over rapidly with the starter
this test will not provide any usable test results. and check for a spark. If there is a fat blue
3. Test the ignitor unit's ability to produce a spark. spark, the ignitor unit is working properly.
Perform the following: d. If a weak spark or no spark is obtained and
a. Disconnect the high voltage lead from one of the signal generator and ignition coils are
the spark plugs. Remove the spark plug from okay, have the ignitor unit tested by a Suzuki
the cylinder head as described under Spark dealer.
Plugs in Chapter Three. e. Reinstall the spark plug and connect the high
voltage lead onto the spark plug.
NOTE 4. If all of the ignition components are okay, then
The spark plug must ground against a check the following:
piece of bare metal on the engine or
frame. If necessary, carefully scrape a. Check for an open or short in the wire harness
away some of the engine paint. between each component in the system.
b. Again, make sure all connections between the
b. Connect a new or known good spark plug to various components are clean and tight. Be
the high voltage lead and place the spark plug sure that the wiring connectors are pushed to
base on a good ground like the engine cylinder gether firmly to help keep out moisture.
head cover. Position the spark plug so you can
see the electrodes.
Ignitor Unit
Replacement

1. Remove the rider's seat and the frame side covers

as described in Chapter Thirteen.
2. Disconnect the battery negative lead as described
in this chapter.
3. Disconnect the electrical connectors (A, Figure
32) from the ignitor unit.
4. Remove the screw and washer (B, Figure 32) on
each side securing the ignitor unit. Remove the
ignitor unit (C, Figure 32) from the mounting
bracket on top of the rear fender.
5. Install a new ignitor unit onto the mounting
bracket and tighten the screws securely.
6. Attach both electrical wire connectors to it. Make
sure both electrical connectors are free of corrosion
and are tight.
7. Connect the battery negative lead.
8. Install the frame side covers and rider's seat.

STARTER SYSTEM

The starter system includes an ignition switch, a

starter switch, clutch interlock switch, sidestand in-
STARTING CIRCUIT
terlock switch (1987-on models), starter relay, bat-
tery and starter motor as shown in Figure 33. Each
component of this system is covered separately in
this chapter except for the battery that is covered in
Chapter Three.

ELECTRIC STARTER

Removal/Installation

1. Drain the cooling system as described under

Coolant Change in Chapter Three.
2. Disconnect the battery negative (-) lead as de
scribed in this chapter.
3. Remove the battery case (A, Figure 34) as de
scribed under Battery Case Removal/Installation in
this chapter.

NOTE
Some of the following photographs are
shown with the engine removed from the
frame and partially disassembled for
clarity. The starter motor can be re-
moved with the engine in the frame.

4. At the fitting at the back of the crankcase, loosen

the clamping screw (Figure 35) on the water pump
outlet hose. Move the clamp back onto the hose and
off of the neck of the fitting, then remove the hose
(B, Figure 34) from the crankcase fitting.
5. Remove the bolts (Figure 36) securing the metal
coolant inlet pipe to the rear cylinder.
6. Remove the metal coolant pipe (C, Figure 34)
away from the cylinder.
7. Remove the metal coolant pipe and rubber hose
assembly from the engine and frame.
8. Remove the screws securing the starter motor
cover and remove the cover (Figure 37).
9. Slide back the rubber boot (Figure 38) on the
electrical cable connector.
10. Remove the nut and disconnect the starter elec
trical motor cable (A, Figure 39) from the starter
motor.

NOTE
Only 1 of the starter motor mounting
bolts (B, Figure 39) is visible in the
figure. Be sure to remove both bolts.

11. Remove the 2 bolts (B, Figure 39) securing the

starter motor to the crankcase.
STARTER MOTOR ASSEMBLY (U.S. MODELS)

1. Case screw
2. End cap (right-hand)
3. Nut
4. Nut
5. Bushing
6. O-ring
7. Insulator
8. Brush holder assembly
9. Case
10. Washer
11. Armature
12. End cap (left-hand)
12. Partially lift up and pull the starter motor toward b. Install all components removed.
the right-hand side to disengage it from the idler c. Refill the cooling system with the recom
gears. Remove the starter motor (C, Figure 39) from mended type and quantity of coolant. Refer to
the top of the crankcase. Coolant Change in Chapter Three.
13. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting d. Start the engine and check for leaks.
the following:
a. When installing the water pump outlet hose Preliminary Inspection
onto the rear cylinder, install a new O-ring seal
(Figure 40) into the receptacle in the cylinder The overhaul of a starter motor is best left to an
and apply a light coat of clean engine oil to the expert. This procedure shows how to detect a defec-
O-ring. tive starter.
Inspect the O-ring seal (A, Figure 41). O-ring
seals tend to harden after prolonged use and heat and
therefore lose their ability to seal properly. Replace
as necessary.
Inspect the gear (B, Figure 41) for chipped or
missing teeth. If damaged, the starter assembly must
be replaced.

Disassembly
(U.S. Models)

Refer to Figure 42 for this procedure.

1. Remove the case screws and washers (A, Figure
43), then separate the left-hand end cap (B, Figure
43) from the case.
2. Withdraw the case from armature coil assembly
and right-hand case.
3. Remove the both nuts, bushing and insulator (A,
Figure 44) securing the brush holder assembly to the
right-hand end cap.
4. Withdraw the threaded stud of the brush holder
from the right-hand end cap and remove the end cap
(B, Figure 44). The insulator and O-ring seal will
usually stay on the threaded stud.
5. Remove the washer (A, Figure 45) from the end
of the armature.
6. Carefully pull the brush holder assembly (B,
Figure 45) from the armature.

CAUTION
Do not immerse the wire windings in the
case or the armature coil in solvent as
the insulation may be damaged. Wipe
the windings with a cloth lightly mois-
tened with solvent and thoroughly dry.

7. Clean all grease, dirt and carbon from all compo

nents.
8. Inspect the starter motor components as de
scribed in this chapter.
Assembly
(U.S. Models)

1. If removed, install the O-ring seal into both the

right-hand (Figure 46) and left-hand (Figure 47)
end caps.
2. Push all 4 brushes into their holders and carefully
install the brush holder assembly (B, Figure 45)
onto the armature. Push it down until it stops.
3. Install the washer (A, Figure 45) onto the end of
the armature.
4. The locating tab (A, Figure 48) on the brush
holder must align with the raised boss (B, Figure 48)
on the case during installation (Figure 49).
5. Make sure the O-ring and insulator (C, Figure
48) are still in place on the threaded stud of the brush
holder.
6. Install the threaded stud of the brush holder into
the right-hand end cap (B, Figure 44).
7. Install the bushing and nuts (A, Figure 44) secur
ing the brush holder assembly to the right-hand end
cap. Tighten the first nut securely, then install the
other nut only finger-tight.
8. Install the case onto the armature coil assembly
and right-hand end cap.
9. Correctly align the case screw holes in both end
caps and push the caps onto the case until they
bottom out.
10. Apply a small amount of blue Loctite (No. 242)
to the case bolt threads prior to installation.
11. Install the case screws and washers (A, Figure
43) and tighten securely.

Disassembly
(U.K. Models)

Refer to Figure 50 for this procedure.

1. Remove the case screws and washers, then sepa
rate the right-hand and left-hand end caps from the
case.
2. Remove the negative (-) brush holder (Figure
51) from the case.
3. Withdraw the armature coil assembly (Figure
52) from the case.

NOTE
Before removing the nuts and washers,
write down their description and order.
They must be reinstalled in the same
order to insulate this set of brushes from
the case.
 STARTER MOTOR ASSEMBLY
(U.K. MODELS)

1. Case screw 9. Nut

2. Brush spring 10. Lockwasher
3. End cap 11. Nut
(right-hand) 12. Outer bushing/
4. Brush holder flange
assembly (negative) 13. Gasket
5. Brush holder 14. Case
assembly (positive) 15. O-ring
6. O-ring 16. Armature
7. Inner bushing 17. End cap
8. Bolt (left-hand)
4. Remove the flange nut, outer bushing (Figure
53) and O-ring (Figure 54) securing the brush posi
tive and negative brush sets.
5. Remove the bolt (Figure 55) and the inner bush
ing (Figure 56).
6. Remove the positive (+) brush holder (Figure 57)
from the end of the case.

CAUTION
Do not immerse the wire windings in the
case or the armature coil in solvent as
the insulation may be damaged. Wipe
the windings with a cloth lightly mois-
tened with solvent and thoroughly dry.

1. Clean all grease, dirt and carbon from all compo-

nents.
8. Inspect the starter motor components as de-
scribed in this chapter.

Assembly (U.K.
Models)

1. Install the positive (+) brush holder (Figure 57).

2. Install the inner bushing (Figure 56).
3. Install the bolt (Figure 55) and install the O-ring
(Figure 54).
4. Install the outer bushing and flange nut (Figure
53) securing the brush assembly to the case.
5. Insert the armature coil assembly (Figure 52)
into the left-hand end of the case.
6. Release the springs from the brushes (Figure 58)
in the negative (-) brush holder.
7. Move the positive (+) brushes out so the negative
(-) brush holder can be installed over them. Care
fully align the positive brush wires with the notches
in the negative brush holder.
8. Install the negative (-) brash holder into the end
of the case. Align the notch in the holder with the
locating tab (Figure 59) in the case.
9. Install the positive (+) brashes into their recepta
cles in the negative brush holder.
10. Rotate the end of the spring counterclockwise
and index the spring end into the backside of the
brash. Repeat for all 4 brushes.
11. Inspect the O-ring seal (Figure 60) in the right-
hand end cap; replace if necessary.
12. Install the right-hand end cap.
13. Inspect the O-ring seal (Figure 61) in the left-
hand end cap; replace if necessary.
14. Align the raised tab on the negative (-) brash
holder with the locating notch (Figure 62) in the
right-hand end cap and install the end cap.
15. Align the raised marks on the right hand end cap
with the notch on the left-hand end cap (Figure 63).
16. Apply a small amount of blue Loctite No. 242
to the case screw threads prior to installation. Install
the case screws and washers, then tighten securely.
Inspection (All c. If the unit fails either of these tests, the starter
Models) assembly must be replaced. The case/field coil
assembly cannot be replaced individually.
1. Measure the length of each brash (Figure 64)
with a vernier caliper. If the length is 9.0 mm (0.35 6A. On U.S. models, inspect the bearing (B, Figure
in.) or less for any one of the brushes, the brush sets 65) for the armature coil assembly. It must rotate
must be replaced. The brushes cannot be replaced freely with no signs of wear. If the bearing is worn,
individually.
2. Inspect the commutator. Refer to A, Figure 65 for
U.S. models or A, Figure 66 for U.K. models. The
mica should be just below the surface of the copper
bars. On a worn commutator the mica and copper
bars may be worn to the same level (Figure 67). If
necessary, have the commutator serviced by a dealer
or electrical repair shop.
3. Inspect the commutator copper bars (Figure 68)
for discoloration. If a pair of bars are discolored,
grounded armature coils are indicated.
4. Use an ohmmeter and perform the following:
a. Check for continuity between the commutator
bars (Figure 69); there should be continuity
(indicated resistance) between any two of the
bars.
b. Check for continuity between the commutator
bars and the shaft (Figure 70); there should be
no continuity (infinite resistance).
c. If the unit fails either of these tests, the starter
assembly must be replaced. The armature can
not be replaced individually.
5. Use an ohmmeter and perform the following:
a. Check for continuity between the starter cable
terminal and the starter case; there should be
continuity (indicated resistance).
b. Check for continuity between the starter cable
terminal and the brash wire terminal; there
should be no continuity (infinite resistance).
replace the armature coil assembly. The bearings
cannot be replaced individually. 6B. On U.K.
models, inspect the bearings (B, Figure 66) at each
end of the armature coil assembly. It must rotate
freely with no signs of wear. If the bearing is
worn, replace the armature coil assembly. The
bearings cannot be replaced individually.
7. Inspect the oil seal (Figure 71) in the left-hand
end cap for wear, damage or deterioration. The oil
seal cannot be replaced. If damaged, replace the
left-hand end cap.
8. Inspect the right-hand end cap for wear or dam
age, replace if necessary.
9. On U.S. models, inspect the right-hand end cap
bushing (Figure 72) for wear or damage, replace the
end cap if necessary.
10. Inspect the case assembly for wear or damage.
Make sure the field coils (Figure 73) are bonded
securely in place. If damaged or any field coils are
loose, replace the case assembly.
11. On U.S. models, inspect the brash holder assem
bly (Figure 74) for wear or damage, if damaged;
replace the assembly.
12. On U.K. models, perform the following:
a. Inspect the positive (+) brash holder and brash
springs (Figure 75) assembly for wear or dam
age; replace any damaged parts.
b. Inspect the negative (-) brash holder and brash
springs (Figure 76) assembly for wear or dam
age. The springs are the only replacement parts
available for this assembly.

STARTER CLUTCH AND GEARS

The starter gears can be removed with the engine

in the frame. This procedure is shown with the
engine removed for clarity.
Refer to Figure 77 for this procedure.

Removal

1. Remove the alternator stator assembly as de

scribed in this chapter.
2. Remove the starter idler gear No. 2 and its shaft
(Figure 78).
3. Withdraw the No. 1 idler gear shaft (A, Figure
79) then remove the No. 1 idler gear (B, Figure 79).
4. Remove the alternator rotor assembly as de
scribed in this chapter. STARTER GEARS

NOTE
The starter driven gear may come off
with the alternator rotor in Step 4 or
stay on the crankshaft.

1. Starter idler 5. Starter driven

gear No. 2 gear
2. Shaft 6. Retainer
3. Starter idler 7. Bolt
gear No. 1 8. One-way
4. Shaft clutch
5. If still installed on the crankshaft, remove the
starter driven gear from the crankshaft.
6. If removed, install the starter driven gear into the
backside of the alternator rotor.
7. Try to rotate the starter driven gear (Figure 80).
It should rotate freely in one direction and be locked
up in the other direction.
8. If the starter driven gear will rotate in both direc
tions or is locked up in both directions, replace the
starter clutch as described in this chapter.

Inspection

1. Inspect the starter idler gears (Figure 81) for

wear or damage. Replace if necessary. Insert the
shaft into its respective gear and rotate the gear.
Suzuki does not provide specifications for the shafts
nor the inside diameter of the gears. If there is a
noticeable amount of play, replace the gear(s) and
shaft(s) as a set.
2. Inspect the starter driven gear (Figure 82) for
wear, chipped or missing teeth. Replace if necessary.
3. Inspect the starter driven gear inner bushing (Fig
ure 83) where it rides on the crankshaft and the outer
surface (Figure 84) where it engages the one-way CAUTION
clutch. If either surface is damaged, replace the gear. When disconnecting the starter electrical
4. Inspect the rollers (Figure 85) of the one-way wire from the starter solenoid, do not
clutch for burrs, wear or damage. Replace if necessary. touch the other electrical terminal of the
starter relay—this would result in a short.

Installation 2. Disconnect the electrical wire (A, Figure 88)

going from the starter relay to the starter. Leave the
1. If removed, install the starter driven gear into the other electrical wire connected to the relay.
backside of the alternator rotor (Figure 80). 3. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL.
2. Install the starter driven gear and alternator rotor
4. Turn the ignition switch ON.
assembly onto the crankshaft. Tighten the rotor bolt
5. Pull in on the clutch lever until it bottoms out.
as described in this chapter.
6. Press the START button.
3. Install the No. 1 idler gear (B, Figure 79) then
install the No. 1 idler gear shaft (A, Figure 79).
4. Install the starter idler gear No. 2 and its shaft
(Figure 78).
5. Install the alternator stator assembly as described
in this chapter.

Starter Clutch Replacement

1. If still installed, remove the starter driven gear

from the backside of the alternator rotor (Figure 80).
2. Hold onto the center of the rotor with a 36 mm
offset wrench.
3. Remove the 6mm Allen bolts (Figure 86) secur
ing the starter clutch assembly to the backside of the
rotor.
4. Separate the starter clutch one-way clutch and
retainer from backside of the rotor.
5. Install a new one-way clutch with the flange side
going on first.
6. Install the retainer, align the bolt holes and turn
the assembly over.
7. Apply red Loctite (No. 271) to the 6mm Allen
bolt threads prior to installation.
8. Use the same tool set-up used for removal to
hold the alternator rotor stationary while tighten
ing the bolts. Tighten the Allen bolts in a
crisscross pattern to the torque specification listed
in Table 1.

STARTER RELAY

Testing

1. Remove the rider's seat and frame left-hand side

cover (Figure 87) as described in Chapter Thirteen.
7. Have an assistant connect an ohmmeter between tors are on tight and that the rubber boot is properly
the positive and negative terminals (B, Figure 88) installed to keep out moisture. 12. Install the side
on top of the relay and check for continuity. If there cover and seat.
is continuity (low resistance) the relay is okay. If
there is no continuity (infinite resistance), the relay
may be faulty, proceed to Step 8. Removal/Installation
8. Disconnect the battery (+) wire and the ground 1. Remove the rider's seat and frame left-hand side
(-) wire from the large terminals on the relay. cover (Figure 87) as described in Chapter Thirteen.
9. Disconnect the relay coil wire 2-pin electrical 2. Slide off the rubber protective boots and discon
connector containing 2 wires (1 yellow/green, 1 nect the large electrical wires from the top terminals
black/white) from the harness. of the relay (B, Figure 88).
10. Connect an ohmmeter to the terminals in the 3. Disconnect the relay coil wire 2-pin electrical
relay side of the 2-pin electrical connector and check connector containing 2 wires (1 yellow/green, 1
the resistance. The specified resistance is 2-6 ohms. black/white) from the harness.
If the resistance is not within specified range, the 4. Remove the bolt and nut securing the relay to the
relay coil is faulty and the relay must be replaced. frame and remove the relay and coil wiring and
11. If the relay checks out okay, install all electrical connector from the frame.
wires to the relay and to the large terminals tighten 5. Replace by reversing these removal steps, noting
the nuts securely. Make sure the electrical connec- the following:
a. Install all electrical wires to the solenoid and
on the large terminals tighten the nuts securely.
b. Make sure the electrical connectors are on tight
and that the rubber boot is properly installed to
keep out moisture.

LIGHTING SYSTEM

The lighting system consists of a headlight, tail-

light/brakelight, directional lights, indicator lights
and a speedometer illumination light. Table 4 lists
replacement bulbs for these components.
Always use the correct wattage bulb as indicated
in this section. The use of a larger wattage bulb will
give a dim light and a smaller wattage bulb will burn
out prematurely.

Headlight Bulb and Lens Replacement

Refer to Figure 89 for this procedure.

1. Remove the screw (Figure 90), on each side, at
the bottom of the headlight case.
2. Pull out on the bottom of the headlight trim ring
and disengage it from the headlight case. Remove
the trim ring and headlight lens unit assembly from
the case.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector (Figure 91)
from the backside of the bulb.
4. Remove the rubber cover (Figure 92) from the
back of the headlight lens unit.
 HEADLIGHT

1. Trim ring 7. Mounting unit 13. Spring

2. Lens assembly 8. Bulb 14. Nut
3. Screw 9. Rubber cap 15. Rubber grommet
4. Washer 10. Electrical connector 16. Bulb (position light)
5. Collar 11. Adjust screw 17. Socket (position light)
6. Rubber grommet 12. Screw
 CAUTION
Carefully read all instructions shipped
with the replacement quartz bulb. Do
not touch the bulb glass with your fin-
gers because any traces of skin oil on
the quartz halogen bulb will drastically
reduce bulb life. Clean any traces of oil
from the bulb with a cloth moistened in
alcohol or lacquer thinner.

5. Unhook the clip (Figure 93) and remove the light

bulb (Figure 94). Replace with a new bulb (Figure
95).
6. To remove the headlight lens unit, perform the
following:

a. Remove the adjustment screws (Figure 96).

b. Remove the screws, washers and spacers (Fig

ure 97) securing the lens unit to the mounting
ring and remove the mounting ring and trim
ring from the lens unit.
7. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting
the following.

a. Install the rubber cover with the "TOP" arrow

(A, Figure 98) facing upward.

b. Make sure the electrical connector (B, Figure

98) is on tight and that the rubber cover is
properly installed to keep out moisture.

c. Adjust the headlight as described in this chap

ter.
Front Position Light 6. Replace the bulb (A, Figure 104) and install the
Bulb Replacement lens and gasket; do not over-tighten the screws as
(U.K.Models) the lens may crack.

1. Reach up under the headlight case and remove

the socket/bulb and electrical connector from the License Plate Light
headlight case. Bulb Replacement
2. Remove the bulb from the socket.
3. Replace the bulb and install the socket assembly. Refer to Figure 102 for this procedure. 1.
Working behind the license plate assembly, re-
move the nuts and lockwashers securing the light
Headlight Case assembly.
Removal/Installation

1. Remove the headlight bulb and lens assembly

from the headlight case as described in this chapter.
2. Disconnect the electrical wire connectors (A,
Figure 99) within the headlight case and withdraw
the wires from the case (B, Figure 99).
3. Remove the nuts (Figure 100) securing the head
light case to the lower fork bridge and remove the
case assembly.
4. Install by reversing these removal steps.
5. Adjust the headlight as described in this chapter.

Headlight Adjustment

Adjust the headlight horizontally and vertically

according to Department of Motor Vehicle regula-
tions in your area.
Turn the screws on the bottom of the trim ring,
until the aim is correct. To adjust the headlight
horizontally, turn the left-hand adjust screw (A, Fig-
ure 101). To adjust the headlight vertically turn the
right-hand adjust screw (B, Figure 101).

Taillight/Brakelight
Bulb Replacement

Refer to Figure 102 for this procedure.

1. Remove the screws (Figure 103) securing the
lens and remove the lens and gasket.
2. Wash out the inside and outside of the lens with
a mild detergent and wipe dry.
3. Inspect the lens gasket and replace it if damaged
or deteriorated.
4. Push in and turn the bulb (A, Figure 104) coun
terclockwise and remove the bulb.
5. Carefully wipe off the reflector surface (B, Fig
ure 104) behind the bulb with a soft cloth.
TAILLIGHT/BRAKELIGHT AND LICENSE PLATE LIGHT

1. Screw 11. Collar

2. Washer 12. Nut
3. Lens (tail/ 13. Collar
brakelight) 14. Rubber bushing
4. Gasket 15. Bracket
5. Bulb 16. Plate
6. Reflector 17. Housing
7. Base 18. Bulb
8. Nut 19. Gasket
9. Rubber cushion 20. Lens
10. Collar 21. Cover
2. Remove the cover (Figure 105) and the lens
(Figure 106) from the housing on the license plate
bracket. Don't lose the mounting hole collars in the
bracket.
3. Wash out the inside and outside of the lens with
a mild detergent and wipe dry.
4. Inspect the lens gasket (Figure 107) and replace
it if damaged or deteriorated.
5. Push in and turn the bulb (A, Figure 108) coun
terclockwise and remove the bulb.
6. If necessary, remove the housing and plate (B,
Figure 108) from the bracket.
7. If removed, install the housing and plate (B,
Figure 108) onto the bracket.
8. If removed, install the gasket onto the housing.
9. Replace the bulb (A, Figure 108) and install the
lens and cover.
10. Make sure mounting hole collars are in place in
the bracket.
11. Install the lockwashers and nuts securing the
assembly. Tighten the nuts securely.

Directional Signal Light

Bulb Replacement
1. Remove the screws (Figure 109) securing the
lens and remove the lens.
2. Push in and turn the bulb (A, Figure 110) coun
terclockwise and remove the bulb.
3. Wash out the inside and outside of the lens with
a mild detergent and wipe dry.
4. Carefully wipe off the reflector surface (B, Fig
ure 110) behind the bulb with a soft cloth.
5. Replace the bulb (A, Figure 110) and install the
lens and gasket; do not over-tighten the screws as the
lens may crack.
Speedometer Illumination Light
Indicator Light Replacement

1. Remove the screws and washers (A, Figure 111)

securing the speedometer assembly in the case.
2. Carefully pull the speedometer housing (B, Fig
ure 111) up and out of the case.
3. Carefully pull the defective lamp holder/electri
cal wire assembly from the backside of the speed
ometer housing.
4. Pull the bulb straight out of the holder and replace
the defective bulb.

NOTE
If a new bulb will not work, check the
wire connections for loose or broken
wires. Also check the bulb socket for
corrosion. Replace as necessary.

5. Push the lamp socket/electrical wire assembly

back into the housing. Make sure it is completely
seated to prevent the entry of water and moisture.
6. Make sure the gasket (C, Figure 111) is in place
and install the speedometer housing (B, Figure 111)
into the case.
7. Install the screws and washers (A, Figure 111)
securing the speedometer assembly in the case.

SWITCHES

Switches can be tested for continuity with an

ohmmeter (see Chapter One) or a test light at the
switch connector plug by operating the switch in
each of its operating positions and comparing
results with the switch operation. For example,
Figure 112 shows a continuity diagram for the
ignition switch. It shows which terminals should
show continuity when the ignition switch is in a
given position.
When the ignition switch is in the PARK position,
there should be continuity between terminals
red/white and brown. This is indicated by the line on
the continuity diagram. An ohmmeter connected
between these 2 terminals should indicate little or no
resistance and a test lamp should light. When the
ignition switch is OFF, there should be no continuity
between any of the terminals.

Testing

If the switch or button doesn't perform properly,

replace it. Refer to the following figures when test-
ing the switches:
a. Ignition switch: Figure 112.
b. Engine stop switch and start switch: Figure 113.
c. Sidestand switch: Figure 114.
d. Clutch switch: Figure 115.
e. Headlight switch (U.K.): Figure 116.
f. Front brake switch: Figure 117.
g. Rear brake switch: Figure 118.
h. Dimmer switch: Figure 119.
i. Directional signal switch: Figure 120.
j. Neutral indicator switch: Figure 121.
k. Horn switch: Figure 122.
When testing switches, note the following:
a. First check the fuses as described under Fuses
in this chapter.
b. Check the battery as described under Battery
in Chapter Three; charge the battery to the
correct state of charge, if required.
c. Disconnect the negative (-) cable from the
battery, as described in this chapter, if the
switch connectors are not disconnected in the
circuit.

CAUTION
Do not attempt to start the engine with the
battery negative (—) cable disconnected or
you may damage the wiring harness.

d. When separating 2 electrical connectors, de

press the retaining clip and pull on the electri
cal connector housings and not the wires.

NOTE
Electrical connectors can be serviced
by disconnecting them and cleaning
with electrical contact cleaner. Multi-
ple pin connectors should be packed
with a dielectric compound (available
at most automotive and motorcycle
supply stores).

e. After locating a defective circuit, check the

electrical connectors to make sure they are
clean and properly connected. Make sure there
are no bent metal pins on the male side of the
connector (Figure 123). Check all wires going
into a electrical connector housing to make
 sure each wire is properly positioned and that
the wire end is not loose (Figure 124).
f. To properly connect electrical connectors, push
them together until they click and are locked
into place (Figure 125).
g. When replacing handlebar switch assemblies,
on models with electrical wiring external of the
handlebar, make sure the wiring is routed cor
rectly so that it is not crimped when the handle
bar is turned from side to side. Also secure the
wiring to the handlebar with the plastic tie
wraps.

NOTE
On some models, the switch electrical
wires run through the interior of the
handlebar. The wiring enters a opening
in the handlebar adjacent to the switch
(Figure 126) and exits at the base of the
handlebar by the speedometer. On these
models, if the electrical wiring cannot
be disconnected at the switch assembly,
the electrical wiring must be pulled
through the handlebar during removal
and again during installation.

Ignition Switch
Removal/Installation

1. Remove the rider's seat and frame left-hand side

cover (A, Figure 127) as described in Chapter Thir
teen.
2. Disconnect the battery negative (—) lead as de
scribed in this chapter.
3. Follow the wiring harness from the ignition
switch to the wiring harness.
4. Disconnect the ignition switch 4-pin electrical
connector containing 4 wires (1 red/white, 1 orange,
1 gray and 1 brown).
5. Remove the mounting screw and washer (B, Fig
ure 127) securing the ignition switch to the frame on
the left-hand side.
6. Remove the switch assembly (C, Figure 127)
from the frame.
7. Install the new ignition switch onto the frame and
tighten the screw securely.
8. Reconnect the 4-pin electrical connector. Make
sure the electrical connector is free of corrosion and
is tight.
9. Connect the battery negative (-) lead as described
in this chapter.
10. Install the side cover and seat. portion of the switch is faulty the entire switch
assembly must be replaced.
1. Remove the seat as described under Seat Re
Right-hand Combination Switch and on moval/Installation in Chapter Thirteen.
1985-1987, Front Brake Light Switch
2. Disconnect the battery negative (-) lead as de
(Engine Start and Stop Switch and on U.K.
scribed in this chapter.
Models the Headlight Switch)
Removal/Installation 3. Remove the fuel tank as described under Fuel
Tank Removal/Installation in Chapter Seven.
The right-hand combination switch assembly
contains both the engine start, engine stop switch NOTE
and on U.K. models the Headlight Switch. If any The location of the electrical connec-
tors, and the color of the wiring, vary
with the different type of handlebars,
different years and with the country the
bike is sold in. Therefore the exact loca-
tion of the connector(s) is not shown in
this procedure.

4. Follow the right-hand switch electrical wiring

either on the exterior of the handlebar or where the
internal wiring exits at the base of the handlebar by
the speedometer. Follow these wires to the area
along the top of the frame rails. The electrical con
nectors are located either by the front air filter case
(Figure 128) or by the rear air filter case (Figure
129).
5. Locate and disconnect the electrical connec
tor^).
6A. On 1985-1987 models, remove the screws and
disassemble the front brake light switch. The elec-
trical connector is part of the switch assembly and
will be removed along with the rest of the wiring
harness.
6B. On 1988-on models, disconnect the electrical
connector (Figure 130) from the front brake light
switch. This wire goes from the start switch to the
front brake light switch.
7. Remove the electrical wire harness from any
clips on the frame and carefully pull the harness out
from the frame.
8. Remove the screws securing the right-hand com
bination switch together and remove the switch as
sembly (Figure 131).
9. Install a new switch and tighten the screws se
curely. Do not over-tighten the screws or the plastic
switch housing may crack.
10. Reconnect the electrical connector(s)
11. Make sure the electrical connector(s) are free of
corrosion and are tight. Install a tie wrap to hold the
electrical wires to the front of the frame. The wires
must be retained in this manner to allow room for 7. Remove the electrical wire harness from any
the fuel tank. clips on the frame and carefully pull the harness out
12. Connect the battery negative (-) lead as de from the frame.
scribed in this chapter. 8. Remove the screws securing the left-hand com
13. Install the fuel tank as described in Chapter bination switch together and remove the switch as
Seven. sembly (B, Figure 132).
14. Install the seat as described in Chapter Thirteen. 9. Install a new switch and tighten the screws se
curely. Do not over-tighten the screws or the plastic
Left-hand Combination Switch and Starter switch housing may crack.
Interlock Switch 10. Reconnect the electrical connector(s)
(Headlight Dimmer Switch, Directional Signal
Switch, Horn Switch and on U.K. Models
the Passing Switch)
Removal/Installation

The left-hand combination switch assembly con-

tains both the headlight dimmer switch, turn signal
switch, horn switch and on U.K. models the Passing
Switch. If any portion of the switch is faulty the
entire switch assembly must be replaced.
1. Remove the seat as described under Seat Re
moval/Installation in Chapter Thirteen.
2. Disconnect the battery negative (-) lead as de
scribed in this chapter.
3. Remove the fuel tank as described under Fuel
Tank Removal/Installation in Chapter Seven.

NOTE
The location of the electrical connec-
tors, and the color of the wiring, vary
with the different types of handlebars,
different years and with the country the
bike is sold in. Therefore the exact loca-
tion of the connector(s) is not shown in
this procedure.

4. Follow the left-hand switch electrical wiring

either on the exterior of the handlebar or where the
internal wiring exits at the base of the handlebar by
the speedometer. Follow these wires to the area
along the top of the frame rails. The electrical con
nectors are located either by the front air filter case
(Figure 128) or by the rear air filter case (Figure
129).
5. Locate and disconnect the electrical connec
tor^).
6. Remove the screws and disassemble the starter
interlock switch (A, Figure 132) on the clutch lever.
The electrical connector is part of the switch assem
bly and will be removed along with the rest of the
wiring harness.
11. Make sure the electrical connector(s) are free of Front Brake Light Switch
corrosion and are tight. Install a tie wrap to hold the (1988-on Models)
electrical wires to the front of the frame. The wires Removal/Installation
must be retained in this manner to allow room for
the fuel tank. NOTE
The front brake light switch on 1985-
12. Connect the battery negative (-) lead as de 1987 models is removed along with the
scribed in this chapter. right-hand combination switch assem-
13. Install the fuel tank as described in Chapter bly as previously described.
Seven.
1. Disconnect the electrical connector (A, Figure
14. Install the seat as described in Chapter Thirteen.
133) from the switch.
2. Remove the screws securing the front brake light
switch to the front brake lever housing and remove
the switch assembly (B, Figure 133).
3. Install a new switch and tighten the screws se
curely.
4. Reconnect the 2 individual electrical connectors.
5. Make sure the electrical connectors are free of
corrosion and are tight.

Rear Brake Light Switch

Removal/Installation

1. Remove the rider's seat and frame right-hand

side cover (Figure 134) as described in Chapter
Thirteen.
2. Remove the trim panel (Figure 135) at the rear
of the rear brake pedal.
3. Disconnect the return spring (A, Figure 136)
from the switch.
4. Remove the switch (B, Figure 136) from the
frame mounting bracket.
5. Remove any tie wraps securing the wiring to the
frame.
6. Follow the 2 electrical wires (1 white/black, 1
orange/green) from the switch to where it connects
to the harness.
7. Locate and disconnect the individual electrical
connectors.
8. Remove the switch and electrical wires from the
frame.
9. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting
the following:
a. Make sure the electrical connectors are free of
corrosion and are tight.
b. Adjust the switch as described in this chapter.

Rear Brake Light Switch Adjustment

1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

2. Depress the brake pedal. The brake light should
come on just as the brake begins to work.
3. To make the brake light come on earlier, hold the
brake light switch body and turn the adjusting nut
clockwise as viewed from the top. Turn the adjusting
nut (Figure 137) counterclockwise to delay the light
from coming on.

NOTE
Some rider's prefer the brake light to
come on a little early. This way, they can
tap the pedal without braking to warn
drivers who are following too closely.

Neutral Switch
Removal/Installation

The neutral switch is located on the left-hand side

of the bike next to the clutch slave cylinder (Figure
138).
1. Remove the bolts securing the secondary drive
cover (Figure 139) and remove the cover.
2. Disconnect the sidestand check switch electrical
connectors (Figure 140) from the neutral switch
electrical harness.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector (Figure 141)
from the oil pressure switch.
4. Remove the starter motor as described in this
chapter. The neutral switch electrical harness is
routed under the starter motor and cover.
5. Remove any tie-wraps securing the electrical har
ness to the frame.
6. From the neutral switch, follow the electrical
harness to the electrical connector in the upper por
tion of the frame and disconnect the electrical con
nector.
 NOTE
Steps 7-9 are shown with the engine
removed from the frame and partially
disassembled for clarity. It is not neces-
sary to remove the engine from the
frame for this procedure.

NOTE
Note the location of the electrical wire
strap (A, Figure 142). It must be rein-
stalled in the same location during in-
stallation.

7. Remove the screws securing the neutral switch

(B, Figure 142) and separate the neutral switch
assembly from the crankcase.
8. Remove the O-ring seal (Figure 143) from the
receptacle in the crankcase.
9. To avoid the loss of small parts, remove the
switch contact plunger (Figure 144) and spring from
the end of the gearshift drum.
10. Carefully remove the electrical harness from the
frame noting its path through the frame. The harness
for the new switch must follow the same path.
11. Install the switch contact spring and plunger
(Figure 145) into the end of the gearshift drum.
Make sure they are completely seated (Figure 144).
12. Apply a light coat of oil to the O-ring and install
the O-ring seal (Figure 143) into the receptacle in
the crankcase. Make sure it is seated correctly.
13. Install the neutral switch (B, Figure 142), the
electrical wire strap (A, Figure 142) and screws.
Tighten the screws securely.
14. Continue the installation by reversing these re
moval steps, noting the following:
a. Be sure to reconnect the electrical connectors
to the oil pressure switch and the sidestand
check switch.
b. Make sure all electrical connectors are free of
corrosion and are tight.
c. Secure the electrical harness under the wire
strap as shown in Figure 138.
d. Attach any tie-wraps securing the electrical
wire to the frame.

Sidestand Check Switch

Removal/Installation

1. Place the bike on the sidestand.

2. Remove the bolts securing the secondary drive
cover (Figure 139) and remove the cover.
3. Disconnect the sidestand check switch electrical 4. Unscrew the oil pressure switch (C, Figure 149)
connectors (Figure 140) from the neutral switch from the crankcase.
electrical harness. 5. Apply a light coat of gasket sealer to the switch
threads prior to installation. Install the switch and
NOTE
tighten securely.
The sidestand check switch is attached
to the front footpeg bracket assembly. 6. Connect the oil pressure sending switch wire and
tighten the screw securely.
4. Unhook the wire wrap (A, Figure 146) securing 7. Move the rubber boot back into place on the
the wiring harness to the footpeg assembly. switch. Make sure it is installed correctly to protect
5A. Using an off-set Phillips screwdriver, loosen the switch from moisture and corrosion.
then remove the screws securing the switch (B, 8. Refill the engine with the specified type and
Figure 146) to the footpeg assembly and remove the quantity engine oil.
switch.
5B. If you don't have an off-set Phillips screw-
driver, perform the following: ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS
a. Remove the clips (A, Figure 147) from the
This section contains information on electrical
bolts securing the front footpeg assembly (B,
components other than switches. Some of the test
Figure 147) to the frame.
procedures covered in this section instruct taking a
b. Remove the bolts and lower the footpeg as
meter reading within the electrical connector while
sembly.
c. Remove the screws (Figure 148) securing the
switch to the footpeg assembly and remove the
switch.
6. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting
the following:
a. If the front footpeg assembly was removed,
tighten the bolts to the torque specification
listed in Table 1 and install the clips (A, Figure
147) on the 2 outboard bolts on each side.
b. Make sure all electrical connectors are free of
corrosion and are tight.
c. Secure the electrical harness under the wire
strap as shown in Figure 138.

Oil Pressure Switch

Removal/Installation

1. Drain the engine oil as described under Engine

Oil and Oil Filter Change in Chapter Three.

NOTE
In the following steps, the engine is
shown removed from the frame and par-
tially disassembled for clarity. It is not
necessary to remove the engine nor dis-
assemble it for this procedure.

2. Pull the rubber boot (A, Figure 149) off the

switch.
3. Disconnect the oil pressure sending switch wire
(B, Figure 149).
it is still attached to a specific part. Under these b. Check each female end of the connector. Make
conditions make sure that the meter test lead has sure that the metal connector on the end of each
penetrated the connector and is touching the bare wire is pushed in all the way into the plastic
metal wire not the insulation on the wire. If the test connector. If not, carefully push them in with a
lead does not touch the bare metal wire the readings narrow bladed screwdriver.
will be false and may lead to the unnecessary pur- c. Check all electrical wires where they enter the
chase of an expensive electrical part that cannot be individual metal connector in both the male
returned for a refund. Most dealers and parts houses and female plastic connector.
will not accept any returns on electrical parts. d. After all is checked out, push the connectors
together and make sure they are fully engaged
If you are having trouble with some of these and locked together.
components, perform some quick preliminary
checks and they may save you a lot of time.
Battery Case
a. Disconnect each electrical connector and Removal/Installation
check that there are no bent metal pins on the
male side of the electrical connector. A bent pin Refer to Figure 150 for this procedure.
will not connect to its mating receptacle in the 1. Remove the battery as described under Battery in
female end of the connector causing an open Chapter Three.
circuit. 2. Remove the trim panel (Figure 135) at the rear
of the rear brake pedal.
3. On the left-hand side of the bike, remove the bolts
securing the voltage regulator/rectifier (A, Figure
151) and tie it up out of the way.
4. Remove the bottom bolt (B, Figure 151) from
each side that secures the battery case to the frame.
5. Remove the top bolt (Figure 152) from each side
that secures the battery case to the frame.
6. Lower the battery case down and out of the frame.
7. If the battery case is corroded by electrolyte
spillage, thoroughly clean with baking soda and
water and rinse thoroughly. Then clean with solvent
and dry completely. Repaint any areas of bare metal.
8. Install by reversing these removal steps.

Speedometer and Indicator

Lamp Housing
Removal/Installation
Refer to Figure 153 for this procedure.
1. Remove the fuel tank as described under Fuel
Tank Removal/Installation in Chapter Seven.
2. Disconnect the battery negative lead as described
in Chapter Three.
3. Remove the screws securing both the right- and
left-hand frame head side covers (Figure 154). Re
move both side covers.
4. Remove the bolts securing the fuel tank mount
ing bracket (Figure 155) and remove the bracket.
5. Remove the headlight case (A, Figure 156) as
described in this chapter. Move it out of the way.
 BATTERY CASE

1. Screw 8. Cushion
2. Positive terminal 9. Cushion
cover 10. Case
3. Vent tube 11. Rubber grommet
4. Negative (-) cable 12. Collar
5. Positive (+) cable 13. Bolt
6. Cover 14. Bolt
7. Cable connector
 SPEEDOMETER

1. Speedometer housing 10. Speedometer case

2. Gasket 11. Rubber grommet
3. Speedometer gear box 12. Wiring harness cover
4. Lockwasher 13. Wiring harness
5. Bolt 14. Lens case
6. Bulb 15. Lower lens set
7. Socket 16. Lens plate
8. Water temperature 17. Indicator light cover
warning unit 18. Gasket
9. Washer 19. Upper lens
6. Unscrew the speedometer drive cable (B, Figure
156) from the left-hand side of the speedometer case.
7. Remove the screws and washers securing the
wiring harness cover (C, Figure 156) from the base
of the case.
8. Follow both electrical wiring harnesses back
through the top of the frame and disconnect the
multi-pin and individual electrical connectors.
9. Carefully pull the wiring harnesses out through
the steering head area.
10. Remove the screws and washers securing the
headlight and indicator lamp assembly to the base of
the upper fork bridge.
11. Remove the speedometer and indicator lamp
assembly and wiring harnesses from the frame.
12. Install by reversing these removal steps.
13. Make sure the electrical connectors are free of
corrosion and are tight.

Fuel Pump
Resistance Check
1. Remove the rider's seat as described under Seat
Removal/Installation in Chapter Thirteen.
2. Disconnect the battery negative lead as described
in Chapter Three.
3. Turn the fuel shutoff valve (Figure 157) to the
OFF position.
4. Remove the bolt securing the frame left-hand
side cover and remove the cover.
5. Disconnect the 2-pin electrical connector on
1985-1986 models or 4-pin electrical connector on
1987-on models.
6. Connect an ohmmeter between both terminals of
the fuel pump electrical connector. The specified
resistance is 1-2 ohms. If the resistance shown is
infinity or lower than specified; replace the fuel
pump.
7. Install by reversing these removal steps.
8. Make sure the electrical connector is free of
corrosion and is tight.

Fuel Pump
Fuel Pump Flow Test
The electromagnetic fuel pump pumps fuel from
the fuel tank to the carburetors. When the ignition
switch is turned ON the electromagnet is energized,
pulling the armature and the diaphragm up. This
causes a vacuum and pulls fuel through the inlet
check valve. As the armature reaches the limit of its 2. Connect a short section of fuel line to the fuel
upward travel, the contact points are opened in the pump fitting that goes to the carburetors. Place the
switch and the circuit is broken. The electromagnet loose end of the fuel line into a graduated beaker.
is pushed down by the return spring which in turn 3. Connect another piece of hose to the fuel pump
pushes the fuel through the outlet check valve and fitting that goes to the fuel tank. Place the loose end
to the carburetor assembly. This continuing up and of the fuel line into the container of kerosene.
down movement moves or pumps the fuel from the 4. Connect jumper wires from a 12V battery to the
fuel tank into the carburetors. fuel pump electrical connector as follows:
Figure 158 is a schematic of the fuel pump circuit. a. Connect the battery positive (+) lead to the
1. Remove the fuel pump as described under Fuel black/brown terminal.
Pump Removal/Installation in Chapter Seven. b. Connect the battery negative (-) lead to the
black/white terminal.
5. Allow the fuel to run out of the fuel line (into the
WARNING graduated beaker) for 1 minute.
Perform this test with kerosene. Do not use 6. Disconnect the battery from the fuel pump.
gasoline due to the extreme fire hazard.
7. The fuel pump specified flow capacity for one
minute is over 600 ml (1.27 U.S. pints) of fuel in 1
minute.
NOTE
8. If the fuel pump does not flow to the specified
The fuel pump should pump over 600 ml
(1.27 US. pints) of fuel in 1 minute. capacity, install a new pump.
Have sufficient kerosene in the con- 9. Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel pump and
tainer and use a graduated beaker large drain out any residual kerosene from the fuel pump.
enough to contain this amount of fuel. If Any kerosene remaining within the fuel pump will
you have a smaller graduated beaker, not harm the carburetor nor the engine.
run the test for only 30 seconds and 10. Install by reversing these removal steps.
multiply the amount of fuel delivered by
11. Make sure the electrical connector is free of
2 to achieve the same results.
corrosion and is tight.

FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT

Color Code

B/Y Black/Yellow
O/W Orange/White
Y/G Yellow/Green
Br/B Brown/Black
Fan Motor Thermo Switch 2. Disconnect the fan motor thermo switch black
Removal/Testing/Installation electrical connector (Figure 161).
The fan motor thermo switch controls the radiator 3. Place a jumper wire between the fan motor
fan according to engine coolant temperature. This thermo switch black electrical connector and a good
switch is attached to the upper rear side of the ground.
radiator next to the inlet hose. 4. Turn the ignition switch ON, the cooling fan
Figure 159 is a schematic of the fan motor thermo should start running.
switch circuit. 5. If the fan does not run, either the fan or the wiring
to the fan is faulty.
NOTE
If the cooling fan is not operating cor- 6. If the fan now runs, the fan motor thermo switch
rectly, make sure that the cooling fan may be defective; test the fan motor thermo switch
fuse has not blown prior to starting this as follows.
test. Also clean off any rust or corrosion
from the electrical terminals on the NOTE
thermostatic switch. The fan motor thermo switch is located
in such a cramped work area that it is
1. Remove the screws securing the radiator cover easier to first remove the radiator, then
(Figure 160) and remove the cover. remove the switch from the radiator.

FAN MOTOR CIRCUIT

Color Code
B Black
O Orange
B/W Black/White
B/R Black/Red
7. Remove the radiator as described under Radiator perature there should be no continuity (infinite re-
Removal/Installation in Chapter Nine. sistance).
11. Suspend the fan motor thermo switch in a small
8. Pull back the rubber boot (A, Figure 162) and pan of 50:50 mixture of distilled water and anti
disconnect the electrical connector from the fan mo freeze. The fan motor thermo switch must be posi
tor thermo switch. tioned so that all of it's threads are submerged in the
9. Unscrew the fan motor thermo switch (B, Figure coolant.
162) and O-ring from the radiator. 12. Place a thermometer in the pan of coolant (use
10. Attach ohmmeter leads to the electrical connec a cooking or candy thermometer that is rated for
tors of the fan motor thermo switch. At room tem- temperatures higher than the test temperature). Do
not let the switch or the thermometer touch the pan
as it will give a false readings.

WARNING
Wear safety glasses or goggles and
gloves during this test. Protect yourself
accordingly as the coolant is heated to
a high temperature.
13. Heat the coolant slowly until the temperature
reaches 110° C (230° F).
14. Maintain this temperature for at least 3 minutes
before taking a reading. A sudden change in tempera
ture will cause a different ohmmeter reading. After
this 3 minute interval is completed, check the ohm-
meter; there should be continuity (low resistance).
15. Turn the heat off and keep the ohmmeter test
leads attached. When the coolant reaches 104° C
(219° F), check the ohmmeter; there should be no
continuity (infinite resistance).
16. If the switch fails either of these tests the switch
must be replaced. If the fan motor thermo switch
tests okay, it can be reinstalled.
17. Allow switch to cool and remove it from the
small pan.
18. Make sure the O-ring seal in place on the fan
motor thermo switch.
19. Apply a light coat of silicone based sealant to
the threads of the fan motor thermo switch and
install the switch in the radiator.
20. Tighten the fan motor thermo switch to the
torque specification listed in Table 1.
21. Install the radiator as described in Chapter
Seven.
22. Refill the cooling system with the recom
mended type and quantity of coolant. Refer to Chap
ter Three.
23. Attach the electrical wires to the fan motor
thermo switch. Make sure the connections are tight
and free from oil and corrosion.
24. Install the radiator cover.
Thermo Sensor 11. Connect the electrical connector and rubber
Removal/Testing/Installation boot onto the thermo sensor. Make sure the connec
tion is tight and free from corrosion.
The coolant thermo sensor is attached to the
12. Refill the cooling system as described under
thermostat housing and controls the temperature
Coolant Change in Chapter Three.
gauge on the instrument cluster.
1. Remove the fuel tank as described under Fuel 13. Install the cylinder head trim cover (A, Figure
Tank Removal!Installation in Chapter Seven. 163) on the left-hand side and tighten the bolts
securely.
2. Partially drain the cooling system as described
under Coolant Change in Chapter Three. Drain just 14. Install the fuel tank as described in Chapter
enough coolant to lower the coolant level in the Seven.
radiator to below the radiator upper hose. This will
reduce the amount of coolant lost while removing
the sensor.
3. Remove the bolts securing the cylinder head trim
cover (A, Figure 163) on the left-hand side.
4. Pull the rubber boot and the electrical connector
(B, Figure 163) from the end of the thermo sensor.

NOTE
Figure 164 is shown with the engine
removed from the frame for clarity.

5. Unscrew the thermo sensor from the coolant inlet

fitting (Figure 164) of the front cylinder head.

WARNING
Wear safety glasses or goggles and
gloves during this test. Protect yourself
accordingly as the coolant is heated to
a very high temperature and can result
in severe burns if not handled properly.

6. Suspend the thermo sensor in a small pan of

50:50 mixture of distilled water and coolant. The
sensor must be positioned so that all of it's threads
are submerged in the coolant.
7. Place a thermometer in the pan of coolant (use a
cooking or candy thermometer that is rated for tem
peratures higher than the test temperature). Do not
let the thermo sensor or the thermometer touch the
pan as it will give a false readings.
8. Heat the coolant slowly and check the resistance
readings as shown in Figure 165.
9. If the sensor readings do not correspond to those
listed in Table 5 during any of the temperature
ranges the sensor must be replaced.
10. Apply a light coat of a silicone based sealant to
the threads of the thermo sensor and install the
sensor in the thermostat housing. Tighten the thermo
sensor to the torque specification listed in Table 1.
Sidestand Check Switch a. The transmission in NEUTRAL and the
(1987-on Models) sidestand DOWN.
b. The transmission in GEAR and the sidestand
The sidestand check switch system is provided on UP.
1987 and later models. This system prevents the
engine from being started with the sidestand down
and the transmission in gear. A special circuit be- Diode testing
tween the battery and ignition coil consists of a relay,
neutral indicator lamp, diode and switches decides 1. Remove the seat as described under Seat Re
whether the ignition circuit can be completed to moval/Installation in Chapter Thirteen.
allow starting of the engine. 2. Locate the diode on top of the frame rail adjacent
Figure 166 is a schematic of the sidestand check to the rear air filter case.
switch circuit. 3. Disconnect the 3-pin electrical connector con
The ignition circuit is completed under the 2 fol- taining 3 wires (1 blue/white, 1 blue, 1 green) from
lowing different situations: the diode.

SIDESTAND CIRCUIT (1987-ON)

4. Use an ohmmeter and check for continuity be there should be continuity (indicated resis-
tween one of the end terminals on the diode and the tance).
center terminal. There should be continuity (low 4. If the relay fails either one of these tests it is
resistance) in one direction and no continuity (infi defective and must be replaced.
nite resistance) with the test leads reversed. 5. Reinstall the relay into the mounting bracket
5. Repeat Step 4 with the other end terminal and the under the seat.
center terminal. 6. Reconnect the electrical connector to the relay.
6. If the diode fails either of these tests, the diode is Make sure the electrical connector is free of corro
defective and must be replaced. sion and is tight.
7. Attach the electrical connector to the diode and 7. Install the fuel tank as described in Chapter
make sure the electrical connector is free of corro Seven.
sion and is tight.

Switch testing

1. Remove the seat as described under Seat Re

moval/Installation in Chapter Thirteen.
2. Disconnect the sidestand check switch electrical
connector.
3. Use an ohmmeter and check for continuity be
tween the 2 terminals (1 green, 1 black/white) on the
switch side of the connector as follows:
a. With the sidestand DOWN, there should be no
continuity (infinite resistance).
b. With the sidestand UP, there should be conti
nuity (low resistance).
4. Either replace the switch as described in this
chapter or reconnect the electrical connector to the
switch. Make sure the electrical connector is free of
corrosion and is tight.
5. Install the seat as described in Chapter Thirteen.

Relay testing

1. Remove the seat as described under Seat Re

moval/Installation in Chapter Thirteen.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector and remove
the relay from the mounting bracket under the seat
(Figure 167).
3. Refer to Figure 168 and perform the following:
a. Connect an ohmmeter between terminals No.
1 and No. 2. There should be no continuity
(infinite resistance).
b. Connect a 12 volt battery positive (+) cable to
the No. 3 terminal and the battery negative (-)
cable to the No. 4 terminal.
c. With battery voltage applied to the No. 3 and
No. 4 terminals; reconnect an ohmmeter be
tween terminals No. 1 and No. 2. This time
8. Install the seat as described in Chapter Thirteen. Horn
Removal/Installation

Horn Testing 1. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the

hom.
1. Disconnect horn wires from harness. 2. Remove the bolts, washers and nuts securing the
2. Connect a 12 volt battery to the horn. horn (Figure 169) to the steering stem. Remove the
3. If the horn is good it will sound. If not, replace it. horn.
3. Install by reversing these removal steps. Make
sure the electrical connectors are free of corrosion
and are tight.

FUSES

The fuse panel is located under the frame left-

hand side cover.
Whenever the fuse blows, find out the reason frn
the failure before replacing the fuse. Usually, the
trouble is a short circuit in the wiring. This may be
caused by worn-through insulation or a discon-
nected wire shorted to ground.

CAUTION
Never substitute metal foil or wire for a
fuse. Never use a higher amperage fuse
than specified. An overload could result
in afire and complete loss of the bike.

CAUTION
When replacing a fuse, make sure the
ignition switch is in the OFF position.
This will lessen the chance of a short
circuit.

Fuse Replacement

1. Remove the rider's seat as described under Sea

Removal/Installation in Chapter Thirteen.
2. Remove the frame left-hand side cover.
3. Remove the screw (A, Figure 170) attaching the
fuse panel cover and remove the cover (B, Figun
170).
4. Remove the fuse (Figure 171) with your fingers
and inspect it. If the fuse is blown there will be a
break in the element (Figure 172). Inside the covei
is a spare fuse (Figure 173).
5. Install the new fuse and push it all the way down
until it seats completely, then install the cover and
screw. Tighten the screw securely but don't over-
tighten it as the cover may fracture.
6. Install the seat.
Fuse Panel
Removal/Installation

1. Remove the rider's seat as described under Seat

Removal/Installation in Chapter Thirteen.
2. Remove the frame left-hand side cover.
3. Remove the directional signal relay (A, Figure
174) from the mounting bracket on the frame.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector (B, Figure
174) from the base of the fuse panel.
5. Remove the screw securing the fuse panel (C,
Figure 174) to the frame and remove it.
6. Install by reversing these removal steps.
7. Make sure the electrical connector is free of
corrosion and is tight.

CIRCUIT BREAKER

The wiring harness is protected by a circuit

breaker. The circuit breaker protects the electrical
system when the main circuit load exceeds the rated
amperage. When an overload occurs, the red button
pops out on the breaker face panel and the circuit is
open. The circuit will remain open until the problem
is solved and the breaker is re-set.
The circuit breaker is located just behind the fuse
panel (Figure 175).
To reset, wait approximately 10 minutes for the
circuit breaker to cool down, then push the red
button in. If the red button pops out again—the
problem still exists in the electrical system and must
be corrected.

WIRING DIAGRAMS

Wiring diagrams for all models are located at the

end of this book.
 Table 1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TIGHTENING TORQUES
Item N.m n.-ib.
Alternator rotor bolt 140-160 101.5-115.5
Starter clutch retainer
6 mm Allen bolts 23-28 16.5-20.0
Front footpeg assembly bolts 15-25 11-18
Fan motor thermo switch 10-15 7-11.0
Thermo sensor 12-15 8.5-11.0

Table 2 IGNITION TROUBLESHOOTING

Symptoms Probable cause
Weak spark Poor connections in circuit (clean and retighten all connections)
High voltage leak (replace defective wire) Defective ignition coil (replace coil) No spark
Broken wire (replace wire) Defective ignition coil (replace coil) Defective signal generator (replace
signal generator assembly) Defective ignitor unit (replace ignitor unit) Faulty engine stop switch
(replace switch)

Table 3 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS

Regulator/rectifier Transistorized, non-adjustable
Regulated voltage 1 4-1 5 V at 5,000 rpm Alternator
no-load voltage More than 65 V at 5,000 rpm Battery Type
designation YB16B-A Capacity
12V/16amphour Starter motor Brush length limit 9
mm (0.35 in.) Commutator under cut limit 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)
Starter relay resistance 2-6 ohms Ignition signal
generator resistance 50-200 ohms Ignition
coil resistance Primary resistance 2-6 ohms
Secondary resistance 10,000-25,000 ohms Stator coil
resistance 1985-1989 0.2-0.5 ohms 1 990-on
0.1-1 .0 ohms

Table 4 REPLACEMENT BULBS

U.S. and Canadian Models Item
Voltage/wattage
Headlight (high/low beam) 12V 60/55W
Taillight/brakelight 1986-1987
12V8/23W 1988-on 12V 5/21 W
(continued)
 Table 4 REPLACEMENT BULBS (continued)
U.S. and Canadian Models (continued)
Item Voltage/wattage
Directional signal
1986-1987
Front 12V8/23W
Rear 12V23W
1988-on
Front 12V 5/21 W
Rear 12V 21W
License plate light 12V8W
High beam indicator light 12V 1.7 W
Instrument and all other
indicator lights 12V3W
Other than U.S. and Canadian Models
Item* Voltage/wattage
Headlight (high/low beam) 12V60/55W
Parking light
E-02, E-24 12V3.4W
E-15, E-16, E-18, E-22 12V4W
Taillight/brakelight
E-02, E-15, E-16, E-18, E-22 12V 5/21 W
E-24 12V8/23W
License plate light
E-02, E-15, E-16, E-18, E-22 12V5W
E-24 12V8W
Directional signal
E-02, E-15, E-16, E-18, E-22 12V 21W
E-24 12V23W
Speedometer light 12V 21W
High beam indicator light 12V1.7W
All other indicator lights 12V3W
* E-02= England, E-15= Finland, E-16 Norway, E-18= Switzerland, E-22= West Germany, E-24= Austria

Table 5 TEMPERATURE GAUGE THERMO SENSOR READINGS

Temperature Resistance (ohms)
50°C(122°F) 156
80°C(176°F) 53 28
100°C(212°F)