INTRODUCTION

work

is

of

such character that

It is

it

cannot be held between

centres.

attached to the live-spindle by the screw on

is

the end, and

used in
as

turning cups,
require
tools

balls, disks,

and such other pieces

that

turning-

be

used

on

one

end.

The

piece

being
Fig. 7

operated on is not fastened directly to ft\t faceplate, but

is

held in a wooden disk that

of screws.

is
is

fastened to the
called a chuck.

face-plate

by means

This disk

Face-plates are made in various diameters to suit the

size
of

the

work.

When

they are
in

made more com-

character, as with plex raised rims and attachments

of adjustingare themselves screws, they called chucks. of a lathe
is

in

the

form

Fig.

The swing

twice the distance from the

centre of the front end of the live-spindle to the nearest point of the shears.

The
is

size of a lathe

determined by the swing and the length

of the shears.

The
shown

Gouge,
is

in Fig. 9,

the

Fig. 9

tool of greatest use to the wood -turner. Any piece to be turned

is first

rapidly

dressed to a rough approximation to the desired form by

WOOD-TURNING
of the

and most surfaces having compound curves are shaped by its use. In the hands of a skilful wood-turner it may be made to do most of the work done in the lathe. The edge should be a smooth curve of the elliptical form shown, and the bevel should be straight, as it is the guide by which the depth and outline of curves

means

gouge

are

regulated.

The
is

elliptical

form

necthat
in a

essary
it

in

order

may be turned

Fig. 10

small space. The handle ought to be long in large sizes, in order

during a heavy cut. The size is determined by the width across the concave side, and varies from a quarter of an inch to three inches by eighths
to give of the tool of

command

an inch.

The

Skew

Chisel, shown in Fig.

10, is

used in

finish-

ing straight outlined work, such as the cylinder and cone, and for making convex curves and beads. It is bevelled

from both sides

at a right

to the cutting edge, which, instead of to

being

angle

the

side of the tool, as in the

carpenter's
"

chisel,
slightly.

is

skewed

"

This
Fig. ii

gives better command of the cutting edge, because

of a better position of the handle.

The edge ought

is

to

be

straight and the bevel flat, as by these depth of the cut. The size is determined

regulated the by the width of

the blade.

The

larger sizes ought to have proportionally

long handles.

The

smaller sizes of chisels having straight edges are

INTRODUCTION
such manner that the edges are at right angles with the sides, to avoid the necessity for re-

sometimes ground

in

versing them

when

in use.

The
is

Round-nose
in Fig.
1

Chisel, shown
usually

1,

made by

grindFig. 12

ing the edge of a carpenter's chisel to the elliptical

form of the gouge. This tool is used in cutting recesses where the use of the gouge would be dangerous. Skilful
turners frequently use the
for

gouge

which

Fig. 12, is used for cutIt has, however, a greater use, in ting off finished work. conjunction with the calipers, in regulating the outline of

this tool is commonly The Parting-tool, shown in

for nearly all the used.

work

work, by making a narrow groove that will have a diameter at the bottom equal to som.e principal dimension of the
work, and to which the general outline will, later, be reduced. The seventh exercise involves this use of the
parting-tool.
Its size
is

determined by the width of

cutting edge.

its

Sharpening TurnWhen ing -tools.

sharpening these tools, one is liable to spoil the

shape of the cutting edge

unless great care is exer-* cised, and as the shape
fig- 13

determines the ease with

which the cutting edge

is

guided, an irregular shape

will

render the management

of the tool

much more The operator takes

difficult.

position with the stone turning tow-

10

WOOD -TURNING

ards him, and applies the tool in the position shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 1 3, and at once carefully draws it back
to the position

shown by the

solid ones, with

The chisel the bevel resting on the stone. the danger avoid manner to in this applied of touching the cutting edge against the reis

Fig. 14

volving stone, and so making it duller than The bevel is held square across the before. face of the stone, as shown in Fig. 14, where
the solid lines

show the

position

when one

side

being ground, and the dotted lines when the other The^tool should be moved slowly across the face of one. the stone, so that the whole of the face may be used, and
is
it

must not be allowed

to rock, as that

would round the

bevel.
of

The
in

position
is

the

operator
Fig.

shown

15.

The grinding
complete when

is

the

ground
edge, and
it

surface
this

reaches the cutting

can
that

readily be seen by

holding

so

the light from a window falls across it.

*If

the grinding be continued after this,

the extreme end, be-

from the grinding, bends away from the stone, producing what is

coming

thin

Fis

I5

INTRODUCTION
called a
"

I I

ken
is

It

The wire edge will have to be brocan be properly sharpened, and this usually done just before it is applied to the whetstone. may be done by drawing the cutting edge in the direcwire edge."
off before the tool
its

tion of

length across the grain of a piece of soft wood.

Fig. 16

The edge

left

by the grindstone

is

too rough for use in

turning, so to secure the necessary smoothness and to further sharpen the tool the whetstone is used. The chisel is

applied to the whetstone with the was applied to the grindstone.

position shown by the dotted to that shown by the solid lines, and is then moved steadily back and forth on

same care with which

It is
first

it

lines in Fig. 16,

placed then raised

in the

the

stone;

being

operation performed on both

it is

this

bevels until

sharp.

The
the
Fig. 17

manner

of

grasping

chisel during the operation of whetting is shown in

Fig. 17.

The

chisel

fingers of the left

held in the right hand, and the hand used to steady it. When the
is

sharpening is nearly complete, the tool is frequently turned over from one bevel to the other and given a few rubs on
each.

Any

fine wire

edge now formed may be removed,

12

WOOD-TURNING
as

drawing the edge through a piece of wood, or it may

before,

by

off by rubbing the edge on a leather strap or on the palm of

be

"

buffed

"

the

left

hand.

The gouge may be ground by

being held against the grindstone in
Fig.
1

the

manner shown

in Fig. 18, a

man-

skew chisel. It must be slowly rolled on the

contact with the stone
It will
is

ner similar to that for holding the must not be held in one position, but
bevel, so that the part in

constantly chang-

pass from the position shown by ing. the solid lines in Fig. 18 to that shown by the dotted ones, and then back again and
;

this

should be continued during the process

of grinding.

its

grindstone having a groove made in face is used where there are many gouges

to

be ground. The groove may be made near one side, as shown in Fig. 19.

Fig. 19

An

oil-stone slip

is

used to whet the

gouge, and is applied to the bevel in the manner shown in After the bevel on the outside of the gouge has Fig. 20.

been whetted, the round edge

of the slip

may be rubbed
inside,

against

the

but care
slip

must be taken that the

has contact along its whole edge with the inside of the

gouge.

The round -nose made from a narrow

ter's chisel,

tool

is

carpen-

and

is

ground and

INTRODUCTION
whetted in nearly the same manner as the gouge, so no special instruction is necessary to do it.

The

parting -tool

is

sharpened as the skew chisel

is,

except that the edge is not to be skewed. The lathe ought to come fitted with the following parts:

a fork-centre, cup-centre, cone-centre, face-plate, tee-rest, and, when it is driven by mechanical power, a countershaft with cone-pulley, and fast and loose pulleys. The following tools will be found to make a satisfactory
set,

and must be bought apart from the lathe

i
i

skew

chisel
"

and

turner's-gouge, each

inch wide.

"i
chisel,

round-nose

i inch wide.

cutting-off tool, i inch wide. pair-wing calipers, 6 inches.

pair-wing dividers, 6 inches. wooden mallet light weight.

oil-can.

following table of speeds exercises

:

The

may be used during

the

14

WOOD-TURNING

In each case the speed ought to be slower by one change on the cone-pulley when the work is started and
until
it

has been turned to the round form.

the

turned plankwise, the starting speed would be slower by yet another change.
is

When

work

FIRST EXERCISE
Material.
x x Poplar or pine, 3" 3" 8".

Exercise.

To turn

a smooth cylinder and across it i inch apart.

mark spaces

Use the fork-centre in the head-stock and the cup-centre in the tail-stock.
Find the centre
of

both ends of the

wood, either by drawing diagonals, as

Fig. 21

Fig. 21, or by "setting the dividers to as nearly one-half of the least

in

shown

diameter as they can be taken without measuring, and then, resting the faces of the stock in succession on some flat surface,
in the

drawing
ends

lines across the

way shown in Fig. 22. These lines

willshowasinFig.23, and the centre of this

smaller figure may be
easily guessed,
will
Fig, 22

and

be nearly the centre of the end of the block.

Now place

the centre, so found, against the point of the fork-centre and drive the stock against the fork with a few
light

blows of the mallet until the fork pen-

etrates the

wood

for a short distance,

and

Fig

23

then advance the cup-centre against the other end, and force it in also for a short

i6
distance.

WOOD -TURNING
Put a few drops
of oil

on the wood where

it

has contact with the cup-centre. If the dead-centre be forced too strongly against the wood, it will pinch the livecentre against its bearings and stop it from turning or cause it to heat. The pressure

can be tested by revolving the live-spindle by hand.

Start the lathe, and. adjust the belt to the position that will give

Fig. 24

the proper speed of revolution usually the speed next to the slowest.

When it is desired to change

the position of the belt on the cone-pulley, it must first be " " to the smaller and then to the larger of the steps shifted

on which
amination
stretched.

it

is*

to

run

ex-

will

show

that

otherwise the belt would be

The wood

is first

to be

turned to a rough cylinder with the i -inch gouge. To

do

this, adjust the rest to the position relative to the wood shown in Fig 24, so

that the cutting tool

may

have its handle slightly lower than its edge, and the edge above the centre of This makes the the work.
action of the
ting

gouge a
if

cut-

one, whereas,

the

edge were lower, the action would be scraping.

FIRST EXERCISE

The
gouge

general position of the operator

when using

the

hand grasps the movement by The left hand presses resting against the side, as shown. the gouge firmly on the rest and moves the cutting edge
is

shown

in

Fig. 25.
is

The

right

handle near the end and

steadied in

its

along the work, regulating the depth of the cut by keeping contact with the-rest.
It will
if

be found that
side
lose
of

the

the

hand
with

contact
rest,

the

the

depth of the cut cannot be regulated so

Fig. 26

nicely.

position of the hands is further a view of the hands from above.

The

shown

in Fig. 26

Advance the cutting edge cautiously, and start a light cut near one end of the wood, and carry the cut out to the end near which it was started. The end of the rest ought
to be outside the

end

of the

wood, as shown in Fig.

first

27.

Start a second cut a short distance inside the

and

continue
is

it and repeat this until the end tp the end also round and 2f inches in diameter. The end will appear as in Fig. 27. The diameter is measured between the
;

points of the calipers, used as

shown

in Fig. 28.

If

the

points of the calipers are not held

square across the work, the measurement cannot

be
ken.
27

correctly
I twill

ta-

be found

i8

WOOD -TURNING
better to stop the lathe when using the calipers

during
they
the
Fig. 28

the

few

first

exercises, though, later,

may be used
is

while

revolving. the position of the rest to the other

work

Change

end

of the

as the

wood, and turn that down in the same manner first, after which place the rest at the centre, and

turn the centre to the same diameter as the ends, using There will the ends as guides in determining the size.

be no need of the calipers.

Finishing with the Skew Chisel. In using the skew chisel, the rest is set higher than when using the
gouge
the height is determined by the stature of the operator, the rest being so set that it can be most conveniently used.

The manner

of grasping the chisel

is

nearly the

same
an

as with the gouge; it is applied to the work, however, in entirely different manner.

In using the skew chisel for straight outline work three conditions relative to the position of the chisel must be borne in mind: first, the chisel must have contact of its bevel with the
cut, as

surface
Fig.

being

in

29;

second,
kept
clear

the

acute

angle of the edge

of cut-

must be
the
ting

^ork, and

the

done
as

between
in
;

the

corners,

Fig.

29
Fis
.

and Fig. 30

and, third,

29

FIRST EXERCISE
the
chisel

must

have contact with

the rest, as in Fig.

29 and Fig. 31.

That the bevel

of the chisel

may

brought into without position

be

danger

of the

edge
first

Fig. 30

catching in the revolving wood,

in

lay

it

Fig. 32 and Fig.

33,

on the work in the position shown and then draw it back, swinging
it

the handle to the

right, until
ar-

rives at the posi-

tion
Fig. 31

shown

in

Fig. 29 and Fig.

30.

In these sketches the

is

left

not shown, that the position of the tool may be

hand

shown more

clearly; the hand,

Fig- 32

however, grasps the tool as in

End

Fig. 34, the right hand holding the end of the handle, as when using the gouge.

The

bevel

of

the
rest

chisel should

now

on the revolving work

in the direction

shown
in Fig.

from [x] to [y]

35.

Raise the handle

slightly until the edge cuts into the surface

'side

about TJ of an inch.

By

20

WOOD -TURNING

advancing the chisel for a short distance a smooth surface is produced where the chisel cuts, and this smooth surface may be used as a guide in
regulating the depth of the cut as the cutting edge is advanced to the end of the

wood.
about
2

Start the cut

inches from

the tail-stock end and

produce
er end.

it

to the oth-

Now turn
el
Fig- 34

the chisFig. 35

over and bring the other bevel into con-

tact with the surface, as the first

one was, except that the

Fig. 36

handle must be swung to the tail -stock end of the-

left,

and

finish the cut to the

wood.
the

The position of hands when cutting

end
is

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
j,
|

*H

to the tail-stock

shown

in Fig. 36.

*/** /"#

Repeat these cuts un-

FIRST EXERCISE
til

21

to

work is reduced end and the surface

the

to 2% inches in diameter
is

from end

smooth, and then mark the sur-

face of the work, with the dividers, to the divisions

in Fig. 37.

shown

Set the dividers to

inch between points, and placing one point at the

end

of

the

just, clear of

wood, and it, advance

scratches
lightly,

the other point until it the surface

holding the
in

diFig. 38

viders

the

position
in the position

shown by the solid lines in Fig. 38. If held shown by the dotted lines, they may catch

into the

wood

and be thrown from the hand.

Next, set the dividers to 2 inch-

Fig- 39

and mark that dimension and increase the opening of the dividers by i inch for each of the remaining dimensions.
es,
;

To
"

finish

move

the

"

burr

raised

by the dividers.

Do

the exercise, rethis with the

first

acute corner of the skew chisel, as shown in Fig. 39, placing the chisel in the position

shown by the dotted

lines, and

then

raising the handle until the corner cuts off the burr. The burr on one
side
is

chisel

in the

removed by holding the position shown by

the dotted lines in Fig. 40, and, on the other side, in that shown

by the

solid ones.

Fig 4o

SECOND EXERCISE
Material.
sions

Poplar or pine, 3"x 3"x 8".

Exercise. To turn a piece of the form and dimenshown in Fig. 41. Turn a smooth cylinder 2^ inches in diameter in the same manner that the cylinder was turned in the first
exercise.

Make
it

divisional

marks around
/

with the

dividers, using the

dimenfor

w
Fig-

sions given the spaces.

in

Fig. 41

Recesses are

to be cut in the alternate

spaces between the marks. skew chisel in the position shown

in

Start a recess by holding the

Fig. 39, the acute corner down and a little inside the mark, and

with

the

bevel

on the side on
is

which the cut

started,

having

the direction in which the cut will

be made, as shown

in Fig. 42 'and

the handle Fig. 39. and force the corner of the chisel
raise

Now

a short distance into the wood, and

repeat this on the other side of Remove the the space to be cut.

SECOND EXERCISE
material between these two cuts in the

same way

as Jthat in

which the surface was made smooth, except that now the obtuse corner
of the chisel is

instead of
corners.

the

used in the cutting, edge between the

of

Use the acute corner

the

chisel in cutting the sides, and take care that the obtuse corner is clear

of the

take
side

the edge the position relative to the

in Fig. 42

wood by making

shown

and Fig. 43

at [a].

Keep

the corner of the chisel

not in use clear of the

work when
Fig- 43

removing the material between the

sides.

Finish the central recess

first

and then the

others.

THIRD EXERCISE
Material.
Poplar or pine, 3" x 3" x 8".

Exercise. To cut the beads and fillets shown in Fig. 44, on a cylinder. Turn a smooth cylinder 2% inches in diameter, and mark it off to the dimensions shown in Fig. 44.

44

It will

be found better to

of division, as

shown

cut grooves at the points in Fig. 45, as this helps to define the
first

beads and keeps the size more nearly right.

are cut in the

These grooves

same manner

that the recesses in the second

exercise were cut

with the acute corner of the chisel, the

obtuse corner being held clear of the surface being cut. Use the obtuse corner in cutting the convex curves. Place

___

^^
45

the chisel in the position for smoothing the work used in the previous
exercise, except that the obtuse cor-

IT

ner

is

now

to be used instead of the

THIRD EXERCISE
edge between the corners. Cut the curve by passing the chisel from the position for cutting across, shown in Fig.
46, to

that

'for

cutting

in,

shown

in

Fig. 49, passing

it

Fig. 46

through the positions shown movement must be smooth

part of

in Fig.

47 and Fig. 48. The and continuous, and must

not be hurried, the tendency being to hurry the latter

it.

Fig- 47

Take care that the handle is swung around and same time raised slightly, as shown in the figures.

at the

This

Fig. 48

keeps all of the edge but the cutting corner free of the work, and keeps it from cutting into and tearing the surThe chisel passes from the position shown in plan face.

WOOD -TURNING

Fig- 49

at [a], Fig. 50, to that

shown

at [b]

the blade at the time

being

rolled

on

sketch.

The

lower edge, as from [c] to [d] in same cut is started near the centre of the space,
its

and
as

terminated at the bottom of the groove already cut. When cutting the other side of the curve, start the chisel
is

Use the movements cutting to the tail-stock end. from left to instead of from right described, just only right
to
left.

when

In cutting curves of this description the chisel must be well ground, the edge straight, and the bevel flat, or the
If necessary support and guidance cannot be given to it. the but the of corner in used be any part edge cutting

allowed to

come

into contact with the wood,

to tear the surface.

it

will

be likely

to catch into

and

Ui

i/

Fig- 50

Fig- 5i

The aim should be

that the cut will

combine the features shown be a smooth and continuous one.

to so

The curve

at the centre

the grooves at the sides of it beads several cuts should be taken, as

greater than the others, so In forming large are deeper.

is

shown

in Fig. 51.

FOURTH EXERCISE
Material.
Poplar or pine, 3^" x 3J" x
8".

Exercise.
in Fig. 52.

To

cut

compound curves

of the

form shown

-.

52

Turn the wood to a smooth cylinder 3 inches in diameBoth ter, and mark it to the dimensions shown in Fig. 53.
concave and convex curves are to be half -circles in outline.

The concave curves

first,

are to be cut
divisions

in the

marked

[a],

with the i-inch gouge. The material between

the lines
is

2?

a series of

removed by cuts, as shown

in Fig. 54.

The

exact

>S3

28

WOOD -TURNING

height at which to place the rest cannot be given, as it should be that which will be found most convenient. It ought to be above the centre of the work, as when

using the skew chisel.

Start the cut on the right-hand side of the middle division by

placing the gouge in

the

position shown in Fig. 55, the cutting portion of the

fig- 55

edge being square across If the cutting edge the work.

Fig- 54

is

not

square across the

it

work when

it is

pressed

into the wood,

as
it

will

run

off to

may have been

gouge
a

started,

one side or the other, and so mar the stock. Force

into
it

the
in

short

distance

the

work, as

shown

Fig. 54,

aad then withdraw

and repeat the operation

on the left side, as shown in Fig. 56, forcing the gouge farther into the wood, however, as shown in Fig. 57, and
gradually turn
it

over on

its

back during the

cut, as

shown

Fig. 56

Fig-

58

arrives at the position shown in Fig. 59. The cut is again started on the right-hand side, but with the edge nearer the boundary-line for the hollow, and the
in Fig. 58, until
it

bevel

more nearly a

right angle with the axis of the work,

FOURTH EXERCISE
as

29
left

shown

in

Fig. 60.

Finish this cut from the

side

one was, and so continue the cutting until the the position shown in Fig. 61, and the cut has taken gouge The sides are straight is of the right depth and shape.
as the first
for half the depth.

Fig. 59

Fig. 60

Fig. 61

Next cut the convex portion of the curve by placing the gouge in the position shown in Fig. 62, and using it in nearly the same manner
that

the

skew

chisel

was

in the last exercise.

The

handle
in

is

swung around

nearly similar manner, but must be elevated

a

to a greater extent than the chisel handle was. The

Fig. 62

whole movement
is

is

so near-

ly similar to that of the

skew

chisel that

more

detailed de-

not necessary. scription The small concave curves near the ends are cut in the same manner that the larger ones are, the i-inch

gouge

being used.

FIFTH EXERCISE
Material.
Poplar or pine, 3" x 3" x 8".
to the

Exercise. To cut the material sions shown in Fig. 63.

form and dimen-

"M

s
First turn

Jj

Fig. 63

the material to the form and dimensions

shown

in Fig. 64, using the

skew

chisel.

Next cut the part

FIFTH EXERCISE

marked
in

[a] with the J-inch gouge.

Start the cut on the

right-hand side, holding the gouge in the position shown Fig. 65, and keep the cutting part of the edge supthe cut proback in such manner that the
it.

ported on the bevel directly behind

ceeds, roll the

As

gouge on its cutting portion of the edge changes from the right-hand side to the left-hand side, where the cut finishes, as shown in Fig. 65, Fig. 66, and Fig. 67. During this cut each portion of the cutting edge is successively brought into use^as shown. Take care to have the portion of the edge that is

Fig. 65

Fig. 66

Fig. 67

being used supported, by having the part of the bevel directly behind it in contact with the revolving stock, and
tact with the tee

the corresponding part of the back of the chisel in conThe rest, as shown in the sketches.
firmly,

gouge must be grasped quite

slightly during

and the handle raised

is

the cut.

The

cut

shoulder on the right-hand side and one on the left-hand side of the curve to be cut.

started against the finished against the

curve marked [b] is cut in a similar manner, the direction of the cut, however, being from left to right instead

The

32
of

WOOD -TURNING

from right to left, as here the cut starts against the shoulder on the left-hand side and finishes against the one on the right-hand side.

Cut the curve marked [c] by starting the cutting edge against the shoulder on the right-hand side in the same manner that it was started when cutting [a], and roll the gouge on its support from right to left,
as before, carrying it slightly farther in the movement, and drawing it a very
little

way backward towards

the

end
in

of the cut.

The
the

cut starts against the

shoulder

on

right-hand

side,

shown in Fig. 65, and finishes against the cylinder on the lefthand side, in the position shown in Fig. In this cut the handle of the gouge 68.
the position

swung around extent than when

is

a slightly greater cutting the curve [a].

to

The

part

marked

[d]

is

cut in a similar

manner

to [c], the

movements, however, being from from right to left.

left to

right instead of

SIXTH EXERCISE
Material.
Hickory or
ash, 2 'x 2
/

//

x8

//
.

Exercise. To make a chisel-handle dimensions shown in Fig. 69. It is sometimes

necessary to turn a

of the

form and

number

of pieces to

be precisely alike of such things as han'

dles,

balusters,

and

avoid the necessity for frequent adjustment of the measuring tools a "templet" of the form shown in Fig. 70 is made. The templet may consist of a
similar articles.

To

Fig. 70

34

WOOD -TURNING

piece of sheet-iron, or of wood and iron, as shown in the The principal dimensions sketch, or be entirely of wood.
for length are notched on one edge, and the caliper sizes to correspond are cut out of the other, as shown in Fig.
70.

To Make

the Handle.

First turn the stock to the

diameter represented by the largest opening in the templet, and then hold the notched edge of the templet against it, and mark lines around it to correspond to the notches on
the edge of the templet, as

shown

in Fig. 71.

Next, with

parting -tool, cut grooves into the wood where

the

the

marks

were

made,
the
Fig. 71

using the notches cut from

edge
.

of

the

templet, instead of
the calipers, to de-

termine the diameter of the work, as shown in Fig. 70, using the opening that corresponds to the notch whose

mark is being cut. After the grooves have been cut, the work will have the form shown in Fig. 72. Next, using the skew chisel and gouge, finish the work tp the desired
form, referring frequently to the pattern, to be sure the wood is assuming the correct outline.

After the

wood has been

it,

cut to the desired form,

it

may

have a coat

of oil given to

and then be polished by rubbing

Fig. 72

SIXTH EXERCISE
it with a rag while be given to it.

35

it is

revolving, or a coat of varnish

may

Good

results

may

be gotten in this and the succeeding

exercises by using a shellac varnish made by dissolving amber shellac in alcohol and applying a thin coat with a

The wood ought then to be put away for an hour and harden, when it will be found that the varnish has caused small particles of the wood to project from the These may be removed with a piece of fine sandsurface.
brush.
to dry

paper, care being taken that the sandpaper is applied with only enough pressure to remove the hard particles and not
to scratch the surface.

The

surface

is

then wiped clean of

is

dust and another coat of the varnish applied, and this continued until the desired effect is obtained.

the varnishing and polishing are complete, trim off the ends by which the piece was held in the lathe;

When

Balusters and other similar pieces this way, a way used when there are

may be turned many pieces to

in

be

turned that are to be alike.

SEVENTH EXERCISE
Material.

Gum
To

or cherry disk,

5$-"

diameter, i" thick.

Exercise.
sions

turn the disk to the form and dimen-

shown

in Fig. 73.

Fig- 73

Fasten the disk to a face-plate with f-inch screws, placing the centre of the plate over the centre of the disk,

and selecting such a face-plate that the holes left in the disk by the screws will be cut away in the subsequent turning that is, the holes made by the screws must come in some place where a recess will be turned in the disk. Screw the face-plate easily on the spindle of the head-

SEVENTH EXERCISE
stock
;

37

if

screwed
it

on
"

tightly

will
dif-

jam," and be
of

ficult

removal.

Adjust the drivingbelt

so

that

the
Fig.

proper speed will be gotten, and with

the i-inch

74- Top

skew

chisel used as

shown

in

Fig. 74

that

is,

as

stead
tool

of

scraping ina cutting

turn the edge

of the revolving disk

true,

making the

di-

ameter to be 5 inches.

Next "face "the disk by holding the same

chisel in the position

shown by the views

of Fig. 75,

one corner of the chisel

Fig. 75

Front

having contact with the work, and make the face flat and

smooth by advancing the chisel across the work in the direction of the corner

having contact. The chisel must be sharp,

or the work will not

be smooth.

Next make two

WOOD -TURNING
one i inch back pencil-marks around the edge of the disk and the other inch back from the face. Make face, |
another on the face
in

from the

inch

from the edge. These marks are shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 76. Now, with the chisel held as shown in Fig. 74, and using the pencil-marks
recess
as

guides, cut a
as

around the edge,

in Fig. 74.

shown
recess,

On

this

and

i inch back from

the face of the disk, make another pencil-mark, and with

this

mark and

the one

made

on the face as guides, cut the edge of the disk to the form

shown
the
Fig
.

in

Fig. 77.
left

Round

fillet

on the corner

76

with the i-inch skew chisel,

held as shown in Fig. 77;

and then, after varnishing and polishing, remove the work from the face-plate.
Instead of the disk just removed from the face-plate, fasten to it one of pine, i inch thick and 6 inches in diameter. True the edge of this disk, and then same way that similar operations have been already performed. Next mark a circle that will be a very
little

face

it

in the

less

than 4 inches in diamof the disk, and,

eter

on the face

using
recess

this circle as a guide, cut a

-J-

inch in depth in the face.

Fig

77

SEVENTH EXERCISE
This
is

39

done with the skew

chisel held

cutting the edge of the first disk. be very carefully enlarged in diameter until the projection that was turned on the first disk will fit tightly into it,

and used as when This recess is now to

when on pressing appearance shown

"

the disks together they will have the The first disk is said to be in Fig. 78.

chucked," the second being the chuck.

Fig. 78

Next mark on the face of the outer disk a circle 4 inches in diameter and another f inch in diameter, and cut a recess i inch in depth between these marks with the skew

ig-

79

Top

section

4O
chisel.

WOOD -TURNING

the bottom of this recess, i inch from the sides, circles, and with these as guides cut another recess, of the form shown in Fig. 79, into the disk.

On

make two more

the sides of this recess are rounded, use the round-nose chisel to cut it. The round-nose chisel is used as a scraping tool, as the skew chisel was during this exercise, and its
position

As

when

in use is

shown

in Fig. 79.

Varnish and polish from the chuck.

this face also,

and then remove

it

EIGHTH EXERCISE
Material.

Gum

or cherry disk,

$'

diameter, f" thick.

Exercise. To turn a sions shown in Fig. 80.

the kind

rosette of the

form and dimen-

Fasten the disk to a screw-plate of

shown

in Fig. 89,

and turn

it

Fig. 80

.to

the form

shown

in Fig. 81.

This
is

chisel,

except the recess that

done with the skew inch in width, and this

is

WOOD -TURNING
latter
tool.

may be cut with the partingThe work is next cut to the

in Fig. 80, the curves be-

form shown

ing cut with the skew chisel and the round-nose chisel, the operations being similar to those already performed.

remove

Varnish and polish the work, and it from the screw-plate.

a

When

number

of rosettes of this

character are to be turned, a templet, similar in its use to that employed in

the Sixth Exercise, may be prepared and used. Only the principal dimensions,

such as those for the steps in Fig. 81, need be marked on it, and from these di-

mensions the operator can produce a sufficiently close

Fig. 8 1

degree of similarity in the

successive pieces to serve his purpose.

NINTH EXERCISE
Material.

Gum

or cherry disk, 7^" diameter, i" thick.

to the

Exercise. To turn the material sions shown in Fig. 82.

form and dimen-

Fasten the disk to a face-plate with i-inch screws, and

then turn the face smooth and the edge true, making it to be 7 inches in diameter. Next,

Fig, 82

44

WOOD -TURNING

in depth, plate.

turn a recess in the face 4! inches in diameter and f inch and when this is done remove it from the face-

Put on instead
5

of the disk just turned a pine inches in diameter, and turn from

one
it

chuck
in

to

the

tightly into the recess turned first disk. Put the disk on the
fit

chuck, and turn

the form

its

in Fig. 83, after

edge to the form shown which round the fillet to

the dotted line, using Next cut the recess

shown by

the i-inch skew chisel.

shown

at [A],
at [b] in Fig.

The curve shown

with the
tool.
tool,
i

84

is

cut

When

-inch gouge, used as a scraping using a gouge as a scraping

have the cutting portion of the edge supported on the rest. If, while the gouge
is
Fig. 83

in the position

shown

in Fig. 85, the cut-

ting is done with the part marked [a], the tendency will be to press [a] down, and so roll the cutting edge into the work, rendering the edge unmanage-

Undercut the inner curve able and tearing the work. with the i-inch round-nose chisel, held as shown in Fig. 86,
where the manner in which it is supported by the After the undercut portion has is also shown. been turned, round the fillet left on the inside and then cut the opentee rest

Fig. 84

Fig.

Fig. 86

NINTH EXERCISE

45

ing at the centre through, using the parting-tool. Next cut the bead around the edge of the disk with the acute corner
of the i-inch
'of

these cuts are

skew chisel, using it as a scraping tool. All shown in Fig. 86. Varnish and polish the work, and then remove it from

the chuck.

Turned pieces of this character are used principally in making wooden patterns for metal castings, and in cabinet work and the interior finishing of buildings.

TENTH EXERCISE
Material. Walnut or cherry disk, 3" diameter and 2\" thick, and a piece of same stock 2%" x 2%" x 4".

Exercise. sions shown in

To make
Fig. 87.

a cup of the form and dimen-

Prepare a chuck by attaching a piece of

pine wood, four or five inches in diameter and

one inch
face-plate,
it

thick, to

and turning round and smooth

which, with
still

after

the

face-plate
ed,

attach-

remove it from the lathe and fasten to it the 'disk from which
the bowl of the cup
to be
is

made.

This

may

be done by inserting a screw from the back

through
Ffc
g7

the

opening

for the lathe-spindle, as

in Fig. 88.

A
used.

face-plate

shown having the form shown in

Fig. 89

may be

TENTH EXERCISE
Turn the outside of the bowl and the tom, as shown in Fig. 89, and then remove it from the chuck. Next fit the
chuck
to the

47
recess in the bot-

bottom

of the bowl, as

shownin
Fig. 90,

and cut

the
cess

r e-

shown

in
Fig- 89

the front, using

the J-inch

skew

chisel,

and
re-

make
in

the

cess if inches

diameter

Finish the bowl to deep. the i-inch round-nose chisel.

and 1 1 inches the form shown in Fig. 91 with

Fig. 91

48

WOOD -TURNING

All of these operations are similar to operations already performed. Varnish and polish the bowl, and then remove it from the chuck.

01+

Put the second piece of stock between the lathe-centres, and turn from it the stem to the form and dimensions shown in Fig. 92. Varnish and polish it before taking it from the lathe.

The stem may be

fastened to the bowl with glue.

ELEVENTH EXERCISE
Material.
Cherry or maple, 2"x2"x8". To turn a cup of the form and dimensions
material

Exercise.

shown

in Fig. 93.

Place

the

between
it

the lathe-centres, and turn

to

the form shown in Fig. 94, taking measurements from Fig. 93. Reterial

an amount of mafrom the bottom of the bowl as may be done and have

move

as small

the shape well defined, as shown When turning the in Fig. 94.
part [a], that is to be fitted to the chuck, turn the sides straight

and
it

parallel, as

on

this

being done

depends the

possibility of fitting

to the chuck.

Make
2

a chuck from material

inches in thickness,

and exer-

cise the

same care in turning the hole for the end of the bowlpiece that was exercised in turning the end of the bowl- that is, have the sides parallel and perpendicular to the face, and the opening of such size that the work will be a tight fit

50

WOOD -TURNING

and not quite reach to the bottom. The shoulder turned on the bowl-piece ought to rest against the face of the If it be found on chuck, as shown in Fig. 96. starting the
lathe, after fitting the

a
i

.K/PTW

work
true,
it

into the chuck,

that the

work runs unbe better to

will

Fig

94

fit

another chuck rath-

er than try to correct it When the bowl-piece has been fitted to the chuck so that it turns true to its axis, cut a small shaped opening

in the centre of the

acute corner of the

is

shown in skew chisel to make

end, as
twist-drill,

Fig. 95, using the

it.

This opening

used to start a bored hole into the bowl.

The
j||

hole

may

be made with a

used as shown

in Fig. 96 that is, with the cutting end in the small opening in the bowl, and the other end in contact

with the cone-centre held in the tail-stock.

the
drill, is

The

bowl, not

revolved during the* boring, and this is done with the driving-belt so placed as to give the slowest speed.

The

drill

is

forced into the

is

wood by advancing

the

tail-

stock spindle, and

prevented from turning by holding

Fig. 96

its

end in a wrench. The depth of hole in the bowl is measured on the drill, and may be marked before starting to bore. The inside of the bowl is finished to shape with the i-inch round-nose chisel used, and supported by the

ELEVENTH EXERCISE
tee rest in the
safer to

51
It will

manner shown

in Fig. 97.

be found

have the cutting edge a small distance above the

centre of the cup.

Fig- 97

After the inside of the bowl has been finished, turn

the stem to the form shown, without removing the cup from the chuck, and then varnish and polish it. It may be cut

from the chuck with a parting

tool.

TWELFTH EXERCISE
Material.
Maple,

3f xsf'xs".
Care must be taken in the preliminary steps to have the dimensions as given. Turn the material to the form

Exercise.

To

turn a sphere $\" in diameter.

and dimensions shown

]

in Fig. 98,

Fig. 98

and with a pencil mark the lines one in the centre first, and the other two at the same distance

shown

on each side
material to the form
lines

of

it.

Next, cut the

and Find the centre

of

Fig. 99, using the outer the corners at the stem as guides.
in

shown

of

each
faces,

the

sloping

and then mark

three faces the

on

all

lines

99.

in Fig. stem cut the Next,

is

shown

on which the work

revolving to
eter
of

a diaminch,
as

shown

in Fig. 100, and corner where the using the stem joins the body

Fig 99
,

TWELFTH EXERCISE
and the
faces
as
lines

53

on the

guides, cut

work to the form shown in Fig. 100. Use the skew chisel
the
as a scraping tool, as in Fig. 77, and dress
off the corners,

makto

ing

the

work

be

as nearly spherical as possible, as shown in

Fig. 100

Fig. 101, taking care to leave the centre of each face untouched.

Next, cut off

Fig. 101

the stems on which the

ical

work revolved, keeping the spher-

form

at the ends.

Prepare
chuck
of the

form

shown in Fig. 102, and fit it to the ball, as shown.

The

ball

may

be

held in place by putting a small

piece of thick leather against

54

WOOD -TURNING

the outermost end and bringing the cone-centre into contact with the leather. The ball may be pressed into closer contact with the chuck by advancing the cone-centre.

same position it had while it was revolving between the centres, and remove the eccentric portions with the skew chisel, used as a
Place the
ball

with

its

axis in nearly the

scraping tool then change the position of the ball in the chuck by a small amount and again scrape off the eccen;

tric places,

and so continue until the ball Varnish and polish it before removing

is
it

a true sphere. from the chuck.

THIRTEENTH EXERCISE
Material.
Pine or poplar, 3*" x
JJ-"

x 5".

Exercise.

To

turn a ball 3 inches in diameter.

Turn

the material to the form

shown

in Fig. 98,

making

the two principal dimensions, those of length and diameter, to be 3 inches. Next, with the skew chisel cut it to the form shown in Fig. 101, keeping the proper dimension by

frequent use of the calipers. Turn the ends as small as possible, and then varnish and polish it, and, when this is done, remove it from the lathe and cut off the ends with a knife, taking care to preserve
the spherical outline.

Next, varnish the ends.

SUPPLEMENTAL EXERCISE
(FIRST)

Material.

Poplar or pine, 3

//

x3 x8
//

//
.

Exercise. eter, and then

To

to cut

turn a plain cylinder 3 inches in diamtwo angular grooves in it, as shown

in Fig. 103.
I

Turn

the cyl-

inder and

mark
same

the divisions on
it

in

the

manner
ilar

that sim-

were
in the regular first exercise, after

operations performed

which

start a cut at the

through the first space. As the cut progresses, slightly raise the handle of the chisel and force the cutting edge deeper into the wood. The amount the cutting edge is forced into the wood ought to be small
left-hand

end and continue

it

during any

cut,

and the necessary depth gotten by a

suc-

cession of cuts.

operation is repeated in the opposite direction through the next space, and the two cuts made to second cut is started on the left meet at the centre.

The

A
;

side

and is carried also to the centre, and this is met by one from the right side the work is continued in this manner until the groove
straight.
is

\ inch in depth, the sides being kept

is

The second groove

made

in the

same manner.

SUPPLEMENTAL EXERCISE
(SECOND)

Material.

Maple, s^'xs

12

Exercise. eter, and then

To

to cut

turn a plain cylinder 3 inches in diamit to the form shown in Fig. 104.

Fig. 104

The
and the

cylinder

is

turned, the divisions are

marked on

it,

recesses- are cut in the

manner the corresponding

operations were performed in the regular second exercise. This exercise differs from the regular one in having the
of vibration

recess at the centre larger, and so giving greater likelihood if the chisel be pressed too strongly against it.

There is no material difference between the operations and those already described.

SUPPLEMENTAL EXERCISE
(THIRD)

Material.

The turned

piece

made

in the

second supdi-

plemental exercise.

Exercise. To turn a dumb-bell mensions shown in Fig. 105.

of the

form and

Turn make it

the handle
i

using the |-inch skew chisel, and inches in diameter and J- inch at the sides.
first,

\
Fig. 105

Next, find the centre of each of the larger parts, and mark it around with a pencil, and, using these centre lines as the

form starting-places for cuts, turn each end to the spherical shown in Fig. 97, operating in the same manner that the

convex curves were made in the regular third exercise. Turn the inside first and then the outside, cutting the ball a small amount inside the'outer corner, that the spherical

SUPPLEMENTAL EXERCISE

59

form may be retained. When the balls have been turned on each end, the surplus stock outside of them may be cut off by being first turned quite small in diameter and then
cut off with a knife or chisel.

Though
the
to cut.

these curves are larger than the curves

on

regular exercise, they will

be found more

difficult

SUPPLEMENTAL EXERCISE
(FOURTH)

Material.

Poplar or pine,

33."

3" x 8".

Exercise. sions shown in

To

turn a piece of the form and dimen-

Fig. 106.

Fig.

06

Turn a plain cylinder 3 inches in diameter, mark on it the lines that determine the convex curves, and reduce the
remainder of the stock to a diameter of
cut the convex curves.
2

inches,

and then

concave curves and cut

Next, mark the position of the them in the same manner that the

concave curves were cut in the regular fourth exercise.

SUPPLEMENTAL EXERCISE
(SIXTH)

Material.
lected.

Cherry, size determined by the handle se-

Exercise.
Fig. 107.

To

turn

one of the handles shown

that

in

Use only the

largest
size of ferrule

principal dimensions

is,

the length,

diameter, and

on the

end.

The remaining
Fig. io 7

dimensions to be taken
as a matter of judg-

ment, and to be such that the handle will have the apIn the screw-driver handle the octagonal pearance shown.

Fig. 107

Fig. 107

portion

made by leaving that part untouched during the and afterwards planing off the corners. turning
is

SUPPLEMENTAL EXERCISE
(NINTH)

6i" diameter and Black-walnut disk, 3f" diameter and y thick. " Black-walnut disk, 2" diameter and thick. Black-walnut,
disk,

Material. -- Black -walnut

i" thick.

f"xf'X4". Exercise. shown in Fig.

To
108.

turn the pieces composing the stand

The
Fig. 109,

base,

shown

in

shown
to the

in Fig.

and the standard, no, require

instruction

no special
the

as

manner of turning: piece shown in Fig.

in

a quarter of a ring may be turned from the

2-inch disk by fastening it to a wooden chuck with a

screw, and turning one side

of
it,

then changing
is

it

on

the chuck so that the oth-

outermost, and turning that face, and so completing the ring, which
er face

may
108

then be sawed to the

required shape.

The piece

SUPPLEMENTAL EXERCISE

shown in Fig. 113 is made from the larger

disk
to

by fastening

it

a face-plate

or to

wooden chuck and

turning the back, then turning it over and

fastening
it

to

the

same plate or chuck by screws that do not

pass quite through it, and then cutting the
front
side,

using the
for get-

Fig

io9

same methods

ting the proper form that were used in the regular sixth The holes left in the back by the screws used exercise.

CEO
Fig.

no
Fig.

in

Fig. 112

to hold

chuck may be filled with small plugs same material as that of which the piece is composed.
it

to the

of the

The

Fig. 113

64

WOOD-TURNING

pieces shown in Fig. 112 are glued in place, as are also the other pieces.

Fig. 114

Front

Where turned work

furniture, this

used in the construction of house method of turning the parts separately and
is

then fastening them together is freely used. An illustration of combined sawed and turned work is shown in Fig. 114.

SUPPLEMENTAL EXERCISE
(ELEVENTH)

Material.

Cherry, 3" x 3" x 8".

Exercise. shown in Fig.

To

turn a vase of the form and dimensions

Turn

1 1 5 and Fig. 1 1 6. the outside and fit it to a

wooden chuck

in the

Fig. 115

Fig. 116

that similar operations were performed the The inside may be during regular eleventh exercise. *bored and then turned with the round-nose chisel, or the

same inanner

work may be done wholly with the skew -chisel.

skew-chisel

The

may be used to finish the square corners. Varnish and polish it before removing it from the chuck.
5

SUPPLEMENTAL EXERCISE
(TWELFTH)

Material.

sphere turned as in the ninth exercise.

turn
a
ball

Exercise.
turned.

To

inside

the one already

Fig. 117

Over the wooden chuck used in turning the ball fit a wooden disk, and turn a hole in the centre of it, so that it may
be fastened to the chuck with screws, and have a portion of = the ball project through the _^, -__.t .-

front, as

shown

in Fig.

1 1

7.

The

fit 'to

the ball

must be
be

close, so that the ball will

held firmly in any required

position.

SUPPLEMENTAL EXERCISE
Procure two tools of the form shown in Fig.
119.
1

18 and Fig.

The

curvature of

the end must be the same as that of the inside ball. These may

be made from old

files

by grinding.

Mark the extremities

of the three axes of the

another.

This may

sphere that are perpendicular to one be done by setting the sphere in a corner
of a square box and marking the points of contact, and then finding

a point on the sphere opposite each one of the three so found by means
of the calipers.

When

the points

are found, fasten the sphere in place in the chuck in such position that

one
Fig. 120

of the points is exactly in the centre of the opening r O in the disk

that covers the chuck,

tool

shown

in Fig. 118 cut a hole into

and with the the ball in the man-

Fig. 121

68

WOOD -TURNING
ner shown in Fig. 117. of the hole should be
this

The depth
inch,

and

may be

mark on the corner

regulated by making of the chisel

before starting the cut.

Next, loosen

the front part of the chuck and move the ball until a second mark
Fig. 122

in the centre of the opening, and cut in again, and so continue until
is

the six marks have been used and the ball has the ap-

Fig. 123

SUPPLEMENTAL EXERCISE
pearance shown in Fig. 120.
in the

69
tool

Now, using the second

manner shown

in Fig. 121,

tween the holes so cut

the outer shell, as

until

remove the material bethe inner ball is free from

shown

in Fig. 122.

The

last

cut taken

must be made with great care, or the freed inner ball will catch on the tool and break the outer shell. The lathespindle would better be revolved by hand during the latter
portion of the cut.

This

is

but one of

many

solids

that

may be turned
and the
skilful

inside the sphere in nearly the

manner

indicated,

turning of which
turner.

is

most fascinating work for a

THE END