Galicias Ways

he Camino de Santiago, or Way of Saint James, is the Europes oldest pilgrimage

route and also the most travelled. We propose seven different and unique experiences
along the seven historic itineraries that make up The Way. But we will discover them in
an unusual manner: by bike, on a 4x4, on horseback, on a catamaran, and on foot.
We will be crossing small mountain hamlets, villages overowing with history and
shing towns. Along the way we will taste Galicias cuisine accompanied by its excellent
wines, we will relax in thermae, stroll along endless wild beaches and witness the many
unusual phenomena that the natural landscape has to offer.
In Santiago pleasant surprises await us. In the square known as Praza do Obradoiro
we will marvel at the cathedrals fascinating faade, while inside we will discover its
hidden treasures and carry out all the traditional rites. From the rooftop we will have
the whole city at an arms reach. We will discover its old quarter and go tapas-dining
and wine-drinking along its most typical streets. We will become immersed in the
smells and avours of the Fresh Produce Market, or Mercado de Abastos, and we
will discover a wealth of natural areas.
T
PUBLISHED BY_
Turgalicia. Estrada Santiago-Noia, km 3.
15896 Santiago de Compostela
Tel. 902 200 432 I 981 537 588 I [email protected]
COORDINATION_ xxxx
DESIGN AND LAYOUT_ Va Lctea Comunicacin, S.L.
PHOTOGRAPHY_ Turgalicia Archive
PRINTING_ xxxx
LEGAL DEPOSIT_ xxxx
IMPORTANT NOTICE_
With the aim of promoting its tourism products, Turismo de Galicia carried out an open
tender procedure (arms length principle) aimed especially at travel agencies.
The itineraries included in this brochure are the outcome of the package holiday proposals
created by the winning agency.
4

The way of Saint James 5

The way of Saint James
index
5 The Portuguese and the
Way of Saint James by boat
This week-long adventure
begins in Tui. At O Grove we
will go on board a catamaran
to travel the sea-river route
along the Ria of Arousa and
river Ulla, paying homage to
the arrival in Galicia of the
Apostle Saint James body.
From Padrn, we will continue
The Way to Santiago.
1 The Route to Fisterra by bike
A bike tour along the only
Way of Saint James route
that begins in Santiago de
Compostela. It ends in Fisterra,
at the place that pilgrims
considered to be the end
of the world, while they
witnessed the spectacle of the
Sun sinking into the Atlantic
Ocean. This is a route to enjoy
the landscape, the artistic
heritage, the gastronomy
and the sea.
4 The English Way on a sail
boat and on a mountain bike
This is one of the most
travelled Saint James Way
routes that was used in
medieval times to get to
Santiago de Compostela.
From Cedeira, where we
will see the highest cliffs in
Europe and will visit Santo
Andr de Teixido, we will sail
to Ferrol. And from there we
will continue the journey to
Santiago by bike.
38 p.
2 The Northern Route in a 4x4
This is the route with most
historic content. The adventure
in a 4x4 sets off in Ribadeo.
Mountain surroundings,
valleys, rivers and a great
variety of ora and fauna
will accompany us on our
journey all the way to the
city of Santiago.
18 p.
6 The Primitive Way in a 4x4
The greatest part of this
itinerary is above a height of
800 metres, and continually
goes uphill and downhill.
But the harshness of the
trail is compensated by the
beauty of the landscape, for
it is surrounded by nature,
crossing forests, mountains,
rivers, streams, farm elds
and charming hamlets.
60 p.
8 p.
48 p.
3 The French Way on horseback
This is the most famous of the
Saint James Ways, a Cultural
European Itinerary and World
Heritage Site that offers us an
exciting week-long experience
on horseback. From the village of
O Cebreiro, of prehistoric origin,
we will pass through numerous
sites that will reveal their most
treasured wealth to us.
28 p.
7 Wine-drinking along
the Va da Prata
For a whole week we will enjoy
a fascinating landscape that
is decorated with medieval
bridges, churches, monasteries,
fortresses and pazos (stone
manor houses). We will cross
wine-growing lands, we will
visit the regions wineries and
taste wines and we will relax at
one of its spas.
70 p.
6

The way of Saint James 7

The way of Saint James
experiences The way of Saint James
66
EXPERIENCE
The Primitive Way in a 4x4
day 1
I
A Fonsagrada Baleira Begonte Friol Guitiriz Curtis
Sobrado dos Monxes Arza
day 2
I
Arza O Pino Santiago de Compostela
day 3
I
Santiago de Compostela
day 4
I
Santiago de Compostela
77
EXPERIENCE
Wine-drinking along the Va da Prata
day 1
I
Vern Monterrei Vern
day 2
I
Trasmiras Xinzo de Limia Vern
day 3
I
Xinzo de Limia Sandis Allariz Ourense Cenlle
day 4
I
Amoeiro Vilamarn San Cristovo de Cea Ribadavia
Leiro Cenlle
day 5
I
San Cristovo de Cea Dozn Vila de Cruces
day 6
I
Boqueixn Santiago de Compostela
day 7
I
Santiago de Compostela
22
EXPERIENCE
The Northern Route in a 4x4
day 1
I
Ribadeo Mondoedo Vilalba
day 2
I
Vilalba Guitiriz Curtis Sobrado dos Monxes Arza
day 3
I
Arza O Pino Santiago de Compostela
day 4
I
Santiago de Compostela
day 5
I
Santiago de Compostela
33
EXPERIENCE
The French Way on horseback
day 1
I
Pedrafita do Cebreiro
day 2
I
Pedrafita do Cebreiro Triacastela Samos
day 3
I
Samos Sarria Paradela Portomarn
day 4
I
Portomarn Monterroso Palas de Rei
day 5
I
Palas de Rei Melide Arza
day 6
I
Arza O Pino Santiago de Compostela
day 7
I
Santiago de Compostela
day 8
I
Santiago de Compostela
day 1
I
Santiago de Compostela
day 2
I
Santiago de Compostela Ames Negreira Mazaricos Dumbra
day 3
I
Dumbra Cee Corcubin Fisterra
day 4
I
Fisterra
11
EXPERIENCE
The Route to Fisterra by bike
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
3
7
7
7
7
7
7
7
7
7
7
7
7
7
7
7
7
3
3
3 3
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4 4
4
4 4
4
5
5
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6
6
6 6
6
6
6
6
6
5
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5
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5 5
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3
3
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3 2
2
1
2
2
TOLL MOTORWAY
MOTORWAY
HIGH-CAPACITY NETWORK
NATIONAL ROAD NETWORK
BASIC AND COMPLEMENTARY REGIONAL NETWORK
REGIONAL ROAD NETWORK
BROAD-GAUGE TRACK
NARROW-GAUGE TRACK
NATIONAL/NATURE PARKS
day 1
I
Tui
day 2
I
Tui O Porrio Mos Redondela
day 3
I
Redondela Soutomaior Pontevedra Poio
day 4
I
Poio O Grove Ra de Arousa y ro Ulla Pontecesures
Padrn Caldas de Reis Padrn
day 5
I
Padrn Teo Brin Teo Ames Santiago de Compostela
day 6
I
Santiago de Compostela
day 7
I
Santiago de Compostela
55
EXPERIENCE The Portuguese Way and
The Way of Saint James by boat
day 1
I
Cedeira Valdovio Ferrol
day 2
I
Ferrol Narn Neda Fene Cabanas Pontedeume Mio
day 3
I
Mio Paderne Betanzos Abegondo Mesa Ordes
day 4
I
Ordes Oroso Santiago de Compostela
44
EXPERIENCE The English Way in a sailboat
and on a mountain bike
9

The way of Saint James
1
The Route to Fisterra by bike
FURTHER INFORMATION_
> Cathedral of Santiago: www.catedraldesantiago.es
> Hostel of Santiago de Olveiroa. Tel_ 658 045 242
> Fisterra Pilgrims Hostel. Tel_ 981 740 781
> Castle of San Carlos. Fisterra Fishing Museum
open from 10:30am-1:30pm and from 4:00pm-7:00pm
START_
Santiago de Compostela
END_
Fisterra
DAYS_ 4
1
EXPERIENCE
Dumbra
Mazaricos
Ames
Santa Comba
Brin
Tordoia
Outes
Noia
Lousame
Rois
Padrn
Muros
Carnota
Muxa
Vimianzo
Quintns
Meanos
San Vicente
Vilar
Vento
Bembibre
O Pino
O Outeiro
Zas
Castelo
Vilarmide
O Pindo
Lira
Lario
Serres
Esteiro
Entrerros
Pedreira
A Escravitude
Pousada
Pontevea
Bastavales
Bertamirns
Trasmonte
O Milladoiro
Os Tilos
Cacheiras
Pedreira
Portosn
Bustelo
Ra de
Muros y Noia
Ro Tambre
Ro Ulla
Club de Golf
Val de Rois
Fisterra
24_ Beach of Langosteira
25_ Neighbourhood of San Roque
26_ Cross of Baixar
27_ Public hostel
28_ Church of Santa Mara das Areas
29_ The Siren
30_ Lighthouse
31_ Port
32_ Fish market
day 4
I
Fisterra
33_ Castle of San Carlos
day 1
I
Santiago de Compostela
1_ Praza do Obradoiro - square
2_ Cathedral
3_ Old quarter
4_ Ra do Franco and A Raa - streets
day 2
I
Santiago de Compostela
1_ Praza do Obradoiro - square
5_ Convent of San Lourenzo
de Trasouto
6_ River Sarela
Ames
7_ Village of Augapesada
8_ A Ponte Maceira
9_ Pazo da Chancela - stone manor house
Negreira
10_ Pazo de Cotn stone
manor house and chapel of San Mauro
11_ Bridge over the river Barcala
Mazaricos
12_ Raised stone granaries of As Maroas
Dumbra
13_ Village of Ponte Olveira
14_ Parish of Olveiroa
day 3
I
Dumbra
15_ Village of Hospital
16_ Sanctuary of As Neves
Cee
17_ Chapel of San Pedro Mrtir
18_ Stone cross of A Armada
19_ Town of Cee
Corcubin
20_ Church of San Marcos
21_ Seafront boulevard
22_ Beach of Quenxe
23_ Hamlets of Vilar - Amarela
Estorde Sardieiro
The Route to Fisterra by bike
e propose biking along the only pilgrims
route that does not end, but that actually
starts in Santiago de Compostela. And
nishes in Fisterra, the true end-of-the-
world for the pilgrims who long ago used
to observe the magnicent spectacle of the
Sun sinking into the Atlantic Ocean. This is
a way that is full of legends, myths, history
and tradition, with green landscapes and the
seaside towns of the Costa da Morte.
W
I
> Praza do Obradoiro
Ro Xallas
1-4 5-6
7-9
10-11
20-22
31-33
25-28
29-30
Santiago de
Compostela
Negreira
12
13
14
15 16 17
18
19
23
24
Cee
Corcubin
Fisterra
AC-550
C-545
N-550
C-550
C-552
CP-5201
CP-9202
CP-1603
CP-9203
CP-7701
CP-0702
CP-7804
CP-5702
CP-2904
DP-1914
CP-2303
CP-2301
CP-2302
CP-4501
CP-4502
CP-6202
CP-3404
CP-5604
CP-5603
CP-0202
CP-5602
CP-7402
CP-4203
CP-4201
CP-7401
CP-6502
CP-1302
CP-1301
CG-1.5
AC-440
AC-441
AC-404
AC-402
AC-403
AC-443
AC-452 AC-444
AC-450
AC-841
AC-300
AC-453
AC-543
AC-301
AP-9
AG-56
AG-59
CP-1104
11

The way of Saint James The Route to Fisterra by bike
11
10

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE
A stroll through Santiagos old quarter
We recommend you devote the rest of the afternoon to
explore the historic centre of Santiago, declared World
Heritage Site. Let the art of the stones surprise you. After
observing the faades and squares around the cathedral,
you will be captivated by the streets of medieval origin,
such as Ra Nova and Ra do Vilar, Preguntoiro, Algalias
(de Arriba and de Abaixo) or Casas Reais. And you will also
discover the charm of squares such as Toural or Cervantes.
Tapas dining along the Ra do Franco
and A Raa
As this is your rst night in Santiago, we suggest that for dinner
you choose the typical Galician helpings. This is a good way
to enjoy a bit of all the essential dishes of the Galician cuisine,
such as octopus cooked feira style, stewed meat (ao caldeiro),
Galician pie (empanada), thinly sliced seasoned meat (raxo),
sausage lling (zorza), pigs ear; shellsh from the Galician
rias, such as mussels, cockles and clams; or seasonal products
such as Padrn green peppers or xoubas (small sardines). You
can try all these delicacies in the many taverns and restaurants
located in the old quarter. The Ra do Franco and Raa streets
house the majority of these establishments.
We suggest arriving in Santiago de Compostela in the
evening. The city, open and hospitable, offers all types of
lodging: hostels, charming country hotels, inns or lodging
houses. The jewel is the state-owned hotel Parador Hostal
dos Reis Catlicos.
Visiting the cathedral is a must
Our rst encounter with the cathedral from the square known
as Praza do Obradoiro is very exciting. The square is given
this name because it was under construction for almost 100
years and it was here where the quarrymen who chopped
rocks day in day out had their workshops (obradoiros). It is
thanks to them that today we can marvel at the majestic
Baroque facade, built between the 17
th
and 18
th
centuries,
presided by the gure of the Apostle Saint James, wearing a
pilgrims robe and cape and holding a staff.
The Apostle is represented in each of the buildings that
surround the square. You can see him portrayed as a
I
day 1
I
Santiago as the starting point
The Prtico da Gloria,
sculpted by Master Mateo,
is a masterpiece of Spanish Romanesque
warrior mounting his white horse, as the Apostle or as
Saint James the Pilgrim. In order to nd him you must look
closely at the neoclassical facade of the Pazo de Raxoi,
the faade of the Hostal dos Reis Catlicos and the
facade of the Pazo de San Xerome.
To discover the interior of the temple we will climb its
magnicent staircase, which is in fact two, one inside the
other. As we enter we rst see the famous Prtico da
Gloria, a masterpiece of Spanish Romanesque carved by
Master Mateo. It consists of three arches, whose sculptures
symbolically represent the heavenly Jerusalem.
The Apostle Saint James can be found again in the
central marble column, where the genealogy of Christ is
represented and, halfway up, the hand prints of the pilgrims
that traditionally leaned on this pillar can be seen. One of
the most typical rituals is embracing the Apostle in the
shrine of the Main Altar. After this ritual we will then stop
before its relics, kept in a silver urn, inside the crypt.
I
> Prtico da Gloria
I
> Plaza de Cervantes
11
12

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 13

The way of Saint James The Route to Fisterra by bike
I
day 2
I
From Santiago to Dumbra
We have breakfast at the hotel and set off early on our bikes,
either our own or rented, to begin as soon as possible the
only pilgrims route that starts in Compostela. This pilgrimage
dates back to the early stages of the Way of Saint James,
when pilgrims felt the need to continue all the way to
Fisterra, to the Finis Terrae, the most western point of the
world known to them.
We leave the Praza do Obradoiro and head
to the town of Ames
The itinerary begins at the Praza do Obradoiro square.
Between Pazo de Raxoi and the Hostal dos Reis Catlicos,
where the ancient Pilgrims Gate was located, the trail goes
downhill along streets such as Ra das Hortas and continues
through Poza de Bar and San Lourenzo, nally reaching
a beautiful hundred-year-old oak grove, which Rosala de
Castro immortalized in her work Follas Novas. Behind it, the
ancient convent of San Lourenzo de Trasouto is located,
of important artistic and botanical value. The cloister houses
a large and lovely hundred-year-old boxwood hedge, carved
with geometric patterns of religious symbolism.
We then go down toward the river Sarela, where green
begins to take over the stone. We travel along the pathway
by the riverbank, crossing narrow boardwalks. We then
cross small rural towns, forests and hills until we reach
the main road to later head down to Augapesada, in the
municipality of Ames.
The unique beauty of the village
of A Ponte Maceira
We soon begin climbing up to the summit of Mar de Ovellas,
where we can stop to contemplate the valley of A Maa.
Then down to A Ponte Maceira, one of the most interesting
points along this stretch. It is a monument ensemble whose
key element is the bridge over the river Tambre, dating
from the 13
th
century. The early settlement also stands out,
together with the mill, the reservoir, the chapel and the
modern Galician-style manor house, or pazo.
On the other side of the bridge we follow the course of the
river along a cobbled path and we come across the Pazo da
Chancela. It is surrounded by an oak grove and part of it is open
to visitors, so we can get a closer look. Pay attention to its coat
of arms, that shows a broken bridge. It represents the bridge
that, according to the legend, fell and stopped the Roman
soldiers who were chasing Theodore and Athanasius, disciples
of Santiago, as they returned after requesting the Roman legacy
at Fisterra for authorization to bury the Apostle.
We stop for lunch in Negreira,
famous for its meat
We go down to Negreira, which has a wide range of
accommodation. We cross the towns main street passing
below one of the three arches that support the crenellated
and balustraded gallery that connects Pazo de Cotn
with the chapel of San Mauro, from the 17
th
and 18
th

centuries respectively. We can take a closer look at its
twelve shields after having had a bite to eat and a rest.
The area is famous for its livestock and dairy activity, so we
suggest that you choose a dish of roast veal or farmhouse
chicken, typical of the area.
The day ends in Dumbra
We leave Negreira crossing a small bridge over the river
Barcala. The route concurs with some stretches of the Royal
Road of Fisterra. Here we nd interesting examples of popular
architecture, such as the ensemble of raised stone granaries
of As Maroas, in the municipality of Mazaricos.
At certain times the Way runs along areas of high plateau,
providing excellent views. From the foothills of Monte Aro we
can see part of the river Xallas, its reservoir and valleys. We
arrive at Ponte Olveira, whose medieval bridge welcomes
us to the municipality of Dumbra. We end the day in the
parish of Olveiroa. Next to the hostel there are several
accommodations to dine in while we chat about the stage
that we have just completed and get our strength back.
I
> A Ponte Maceira
I
> San Lourenzo de Trasouto
11
14

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 15

The way of Saint James The Route to Fisterra by bike
I
day 3
I
From Dumbra to Fisterra
After a nice breakfast we leave Olveiroa and soon reach the
nearby village of Hospital, where the Way forks towards
Muxa and Fisterra. We take the road to Fisterra and soon
get to the Sanctuary of As Neves and then to the popular
shrine of San Pedro Mrtir, that has a miraculous
fountain that is said to cure a number of illnesses.
From here the road goes uphill. At the top, next to the
stone cross of Cruceiro da Armada, we can, for the rst
time, look towards the still faraway Fisterra, bathed by
the Atlantic. The road then goes down to Cee, a typically
seaside town, that we enter through Campo de Sacramento
and Ra da Magdalena.
At the public hostel
we will receive the Fisterrana,
the credential that certies
our pilgrimage to Fisterra
I
> Aerial view of Corcubin and Cee
I
> Cruceiro (stone cross) in Fisterra
I
> Church of San Marcos. Corcubin
I
> Corcubin
In Corcubin
we can go to the beach for a swim
From Cee we can get a glimpse of our next destination,
Corcubin, declared a Historic-Artistic site because of its
manor houses and its popular shing town architecture.
As we enter the town we nd the church of San Marcos,
a good example of maritime-gothic and neo-gothic
architecture, declared Cultural Interest Site.
We encourage you to stop pedalling and thoroughly enjoy
a tour along the seafront promenade, with its beautiful
houses with spacious galleries and balconies overlooking the
estuary. Along the promenade there are bars where you can
taste delicious tapas. And weather permitting you can even
go for a dip in the beach of Quenxe, across the villa.
We arrive in Fisterra, our journeys destination
After dessert and a rest we set off again towards Fisterra,
which is now quite close. After passing through the villages
of Vilar, Amarela, Estorde and Sardieiro we say
goodbye to Corcubin from a lookout point that gives us
a view of Fisterra and its cape. We get there after skirting
the dune formations of the long and beautiful beach of
Langosteira for approximately two kilometres. Although
the road runs parallel to the dunes, we recommend that
you walk this stretch of beach, as pilgrims usually do.
We enter the seaside village of Fisterra through the quarter
of San Roque. We pass by Cruz de Baixar, the century-
old stone cross that bears a carving of Christ on one side
and a carving of the Virgin Mary with the infant Jesus on
the other. Next to it we have a beautiful view of the Dunes
of Langosteira. We then go down Catalina street and A
Real, where the public hostel is located and where we can
request the Fisterrana, the credential that certies our
pilgrimage to this villa.
11
16

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 17

The way of Saint James The Route to Fisterra by bike
I
> Lighthouse in Cape Fisterra
I
day 4
I
We say farewell to Fisterra
with a visit to its castle
The castle of San Carlos can be reached by following the
port road, along the Paseo Corveiro. It is a castle-fortress built
in the 18
th
century, although it was rebuilt after it was burnt
and partially destroyed when the French attacked Fisterra
during the War of Independence. It houses the Fishing
Museum. After the visit we suggest heading to Santiago
de Compostela, as its excellent services and communications
network makes the way back much simpler.
The church of Santa Mara das Areas,
focus of Fisterras Way of Saint James
The route ends at the lighthouse. On the road that leads to
it, we nd the church of Santa Mara das Areas, epicentre
of the Way of Saint James tradition of Fisterra. A beautiful
archway, which is believed to have been part of the
medieval pilgrims hospital, no longer standing, welcomes
us into the temple.
Here the venerable Holy Christ of Fisterra shines with a
light of its own. This gothic carving is surrounded by legends,
for it is said that it washed upon the coast after falling from
a boat into the sea during a storm. At Easter the Festivity of
the Holy Christ (Festa do Santo Cristo) is held and it has been
declared Galician Festival of Tourist Interest.
Camino del Cabo,
The Cape Trail (Camio do Cabo), from where
the Romans watched the Sun set into the sea
After the visit we continue uphill along the same road.
Halfway up we come across the medieval sculpture of a
pilgrim. Farther on, the zero kilometre marker welcomes
us to the lighthouses surroundings. At the entrance we
are received by The Siren, a building from the end of 19
th

century and used for tourism purposes, where credentials are
sealed, statistics are gathered and where we can get all the
information we need.
We are in the place where ancient Greek-Roman
geographers located the Promontorium Nerium or Ara
Solis, an altar to worship the Sun, built by the Phoenicians
and which according to the legend, the Apostle Saint
James destroyed shortly after his arrival. Here the Romans
and the earlier inhabitants approached the end of the
world to attend the amazing spectacle of watching the
sun sink into the ocean.
Dinner in the port area
We recommend dining in the area of the port of Fisterra,
the towns busiest point. Its restaurants prepare fresh season
seafood from the boats that dock here.
Then we can visit the sh market, a modern blue aluminium
and glass building that is easy to nd. We can enter it, for it
is prepared to receive tourists. And as for accommodation,
Fisterra has a wide offer that includes inns, hotels both
charming and rustic , hostels and lodging houses.
I
> Santa Mara das Areas. Fisterra
I
> Interior of Santo Cristo. Fisterra
19

The way of Saint James
Ferrol
As Somozas
Guitiriz
Aranga
As Pontes de
Garca Rodrguez
Ro Tambre
Freixeiro
San
Sadurnio
Murgados
Mio
Monfero
Bergondo
Cambre
Culleredo
Arteixo
A Laracha
Tordoia
Ordes
Oroso
O Pino
Touro
Boqueixn
Melide
Guntn
Portomarn
O Pramo
Lncara
Baralla
O Corgo
LUGO
Castroverde
Pol
Meira
Riotorto
A Pastoriza
Abadn
Cospeito
A Pontenova
Barreiros
O Valadouro
Muras
Xermade
Foz
Baleira
A Fonsagrada
Becerre
Monterroso
Toques
Friol
Rbade
Begonte
Boimorto
Mesa
Abegondo
Carral
Cesuras
Curtis
Oza dos
Ros
Palas
de Rei
Outeiro de Rei
Casto de Rei
Betanzos
Paderne
Sada
Oleiros
Ares
Vilasantar
Parque Natural
Fragas do Eume
Serra do Xistral
Serra do
Caren
A Marronda
Parga-Ladra-
Tmoga
Ro Eume
Ro Ulla
Ro Eo
As Catedrais
Veiga
Sueiro
Pontepedra
Sigeiro
Frades
Santiso
Carral
Nadela
Muimenta
Cabaneiro
Vilanova
Pastoriza
W hat could beat spending ve thrilling
days on a 4x4? We will still be in the
surroundings of the Northern Route towards
Santiago de Compostela and will visit the
landmarks that can be found along this
route, which begins in the rst Galician
village of the Bay of Biscay: Ribadeo.
Mountain landscapes and a Biosphere
Reserve offer scenery and ora and fauna
with tremendous environmental value. The
wading of the rivers, watercourses and other
landforms will test the skill of the drivers and
will offer experiences that are both exciting
and educational.
22
EXPERIENCE
day 3
I
Arza
29_ Fervenza das Hortas (waterfall)
30_ Museo Vivente do Mel (Live Honey Museum)
31_ Portodemouros reservoir
O Pino
32_ Pedrouzo
Santiago de Compostela
33_ Monte do Gozo (hill)
34_ Old quarter
day 4
I
Santiago de Compostela
35_ Cathedral
36_ Ra do Franco and A Raa (streets)
37_ Alameda (tree-lined boulevard)
38_ Park of San Domingos de Bonaval
day 5
I
Santiago de Compostela
39_ Fresh Produce Market
day 2
I
Vilalba
13_ Bustelo
14_ Ponte de Meire (bridge)
Guitiriz
15_ Xestoselo
16_ O Vilario
17_ Saa
18_ Leisure area of San Xon
19_ Mountain range of Cova da Serpe
20_ O Sanguiedo
21_ Pardias
Curtis
22_ A Pedreira
23_ Foxado
24_ A Baica
25_ Teixeiro
Sobrado dos Monxes
26_ Monastery of Santa Mara de Sobrado
27_ Lagoon of Sobrado
Arza
28_ Town of Arza
day 1
I
Ribadeo
1_ The town of Ribadeo
2_ Park of O Cargadeiro
3_ Pazo de Ibez (stone manor house)
and Torre dos Moreno (tower)
4_ Ra de San Roque (street)
5_ Villages of Vilaosende, As Anzas, O Valn,
Covelas, Ferreiras and O Castro
Mondoedo
6_ Cathedral-basilica of A Asuncin
7_ Seminar of Santa Catarina
8_ Hospital de San Paulo
9_ Sanctuary of Os Remedios
10_ Villages of Curros, Miravales, A Valia,
Monte Maior, Suarriba, Penas, Fabs,
O Areal and A Moura
Vilalba
11_ Old quarter
12_ Parador Torre dos Andrade (state-owned hotel)
The North Way in a 4x4
The North Way in a 4x4
1-4
6-9
11-12
13-14
20-21
23-24
26-27
29-31
15-16
5
10
18
19
28
32
33
22
25
17
Ribadeo
Mondoedo
Vilalba
Teixeiro
Sobrado
dos Monxes
Arza
34-39
Santiago
de
Compostela
Narn Neda
Fene
Pontedeume
A CORUA
N-550
N-651
N-547
N-640
C-535
C-630
N-640
C-641
N-547
N-540
PO-905
PO-840 PO-260
C-646
N-VI
E-70
E-70
E-1
N-VI
N-634
C-540
N-634
AP-9
AG-55
AP-9F
AC-14
AP-53
AP-59
AG-64
A-6
A-8
A-6
AC-542
AC-230
AC-224
AC-231
AC-413
AC-461
AC-240
AC-234
LU-231
LU-232
LU-233
LU-234
LU-232
LU-612
LU-622
LU-710
AC-401
AC-110
AC-121
AC-152 LU-170
LU-540
LU-160
LU-132
LU-122
LU-120
LU-750
LU-760
LU-111
AC-564
AC-101
N-640
START_
Ribadeo
END_
Santiago de Compostela
DAYS_ 5
FURTHER INFORMATION_
> State-owned hotel Parador Torre dos Andrade (Vilalba). Tel_ 982 510 011 /
www.parador.es/es/parador-de-vilalba
> Museo Vivente do Mel (Live Honey Museum) (Arza).
Tel_ 981 508 072 / www.abelleiro.com
> Cathedral of Santiago_ www.catedraldesantiago.es
> Santiago Fresh Produce Market_ www.mercadodeabastosdesantiago.com
22
20

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 21

The way of Saint James The North Way in a 4x4
Towards the historic city of Mondoedo
After a rest we set off for Mondoedo, a historic city
on the Northern Route and one of the seven former
capitals of Galicia. We should try to get there early in the
afternoon to discover its architectural and artistic wealth,
that is very well preserved. The cathedral-basilica of A
Asuncin, a National Monument, is the emblem of its
historical past as an Episcopal city. Inside, it is surprising
the way the light is tinted by an array of colours as it
passes through the stained-glass ogive arch windows that
decorate its 14
th
century faade. During our tour we will
discover other valuable buildings such as the seminar
of Santa Catarina, the hospital of San Paulo or the
Sanctuary of Os Remedios, among others.
The mudfats will test the drivers skills
If you have booked a package holiday, at mid-morning you
will be met by your guide and 4x4 driver. From Ribadeo we
will pass the villages of Vilaosende, As Anzas, O Valn,
Covelas, Ferreiras, Curros and O Castro. The route runs
along tracks that are suitable for this type of vehicle.
The route begins among landscapes of large green meadows,
pastures and farming elds with plenty of cattle and sheep.
But little by little the trail becomes steeper, while we drive
parallel to the coast, with fantastic views of the Bay of Biscay
and the sandy beaches of Reinante.
As we move away from the coast, the meadows give way
to forest areas and the domestic fauna is replaced by the
wild. In this part, the mudats will test the skill of the driver
at the wheel if the vehicle gets stuck. This circumstance will
gives us the opportunity to learn and practice the self-rescue
techniques mastered by the experts who accompany us.
After the exciting experience we continue our journey until
we nd the ideal place where to stop and savour our picnic
lunch in typical countryside surroundings.
We should keep in mind that we are in the territory of
the Biosphere Reserve of the River Eo, Oscos and
Terras de Burn, with an important environmental and
landscape value, that in Galicia is focused around the river
basins of the Eo and Mio.
I
day 1
I
The adventure starts in Ribadeo
Ribadeo is a town in the province of Lugo and a strategic
and tourist locality on the Galician Bay of Biscay, separated
from Asturias by the narrow and sheltered estuary, or ria,
of Ribadeo. We recommend arriving at the town the day
before and lodge at any of the hotels, lodging houses,
rural houses or apartments from the wide range of
accommodation offered in the town, that can be accessed
from the Autova del Cantbrico motorway (A-8), the
N-634 and N-640 roads.
The town lies on the mouth of the river Eo by the sea and
its port is important for the Way of Saint James. If you are
an early riser, in the park of O Cargadeiro, to the north
of the bridge of Os Santos, you can enjoy a spectacular
view of the town with the lighthouse of Illa Pancha in
the background.
The town is a historic-artistic ensemble and its emblem is the
18
th
-20
th
century civil architecture . The centre of the town
boasts the best examples, such as the neoclassical stone
palace Pazo de Ibez, which today houses the Town Hall.
And, across from it, the Tower of Os Moreno, a modernist
style building, and one of Ribadeos most representative
ones. Two blocks away we can also see the Colonial style
houses that line the street Ra de San Roque.
I
> Ribadeo
I
> Ribadeo
I
> Mondoedo
I
> Cathedral of Mondoedo
I
> Tower of Os Moreno. Ribadeo
23

The way of Saint James The North Way in a 4x4
22
22

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE
We stop for lunch in Teixeiro:
stew or baked cod
We continue to approach the A-6 motorway, but rst we
pass through O Sanguiedo, and in Pardias we cross
the A-6 and ride parallel to it until we reach the N-634. We
immediately leave it and circle Teixeiro through A Pedreira,
crossing the AC-231 in the village of Foxado and, passing
A Baica, end up in Teixeiro. We stop in this town to eat
a nice stew or baked cod for lunch, with delicious feixs
(pancakes or crepes) for dessert, both specialties that can be
enjoyed at the local restaurants.
From Sobrado dos Monxes to Arza
The afternoons route is quieter but not exempt of
emotions, because we will have to wade through a
river to get to our destination. The first stop is Sobrado
dos Monxes, at mid-afternoon, where we can visit the
Monastery of Santa Mara de Sobrado, a National
Monument founded over a thousand years ago. A short
walk from here is the lagoon of Sobrado, surrounded by
meadows and the occasional alder and pine in mountain
and farm land environment of great beauty.
At the end of the visit, back in the 4x4, you get to Arza. We
can stay at any of its hotels, lodging houses, or the nearby
country guesthouses and dine at the accommodation or at
any other establishment in the town.
In Vilalba we taste its typical smoked cheese
After the visit we climb back into the 4x4 to go travel
other unpaved tracks with very interesting landscapes. The
itinerary is as follows: from Mondoedo we return to Curros
and then head towards Miravales and, in A Valia, drive
up to Monte Maior. After Suarriba we go down to Penas
and pass through Fabs, O Areal and A Moura. From here
we head towards Vilalba, capital of A Terra Ch, where we
will arrive at dinner time.
I
day 2
I
De Vilalba a Arza
After breakfast, we leave Vilalba early to head towards
Bustelo along road LU-6517 and cross the river Labrada
in Ponte de Meire. If the frequent ooding of the river,
especially during the rainy season, has cut off the usual
way, we may have to vary our route. The snow or the rivers
formed due to the thawing will be our travel companions,
depending on the time of the year.
From here to Xestoselo, we cross the LU-170 to O
Vilario and continue to Saa. The mountains that
we cross are more than 800 meters high, granting us
splendid views of the valleys. We start to go down and,
after passing a wind farm, we can stop in the leisure
area of San Xon and its reservoir.
Later, we continue descending until we cross the A-6
motorway, the N-VI road and the railroad tracks, using the
old and deteriorated asphalt road from the early N-VI, and
we enter the mountain range of Cova da Serpe. Wild
boars, foxes and wolves live in this mountain range, but
its not easy to see them. We will probably be able to spot
rabbits, partridges, squirrels and other small animals such
as shrews, eld mice and snakes. It is also common to
catch sight of ravens and falcons. As we continue going
down toward Teixeiro the pine forests give way to pastures
and their natural inhabitants; cows, for this is an area of
high milk production.
We recommend you to eat tapas at the inns, taverns and
bars in the old quarter and that you taste their excellent
products, such as the fantastic smoked cheese with
Denomination of Origin San Simon da Costa. And do not
let the Tower of Os Andrade out of your sight, as it is
the symbol of the villa, now a Parador (state-owned hotel),
which is part of the citys offer of quality hotels.
In the mountain range of Cova da Serpe
we can see rabbits, squirrels,
shrews and even falcons
I
> State-owned hotel Parador de Vilalba
I
> Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes
I
> Mountain range A Cova da Serpe
25

The way of Saint James The North Way in a 4x4
22
24

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE
I
day 3
I
From Arza
to Santiago de Compostela
A 32-meter high waterfall
and a honey museum
In the morning, when youre ready, we suggest visiting a
natural resource of great beauty, very close to the village of
Dombodn. The Fervenza das Hortas is a waterfall from
the river Saimes, just before it meets the Ulla with a 32-meter
double-drop.
Portodemouros is also nearby, where the Museo Vivente
do Mel (Live Honey Museum) is located. This is a lovely visit
for lovers of beekeeping or of honey products, or if we are
interested in ethnography. Here we can see how our ancestors
produced honey. Outside is a model of an alvariza (hive)
containing the parts of the hive: cortizos, trobos and covos
and a traditional larder. In contrast we will see a modern
apiary, and inside we can follow the extraction process,
decanting and packaging of honey. In the shop there are all
types of products related to bees: honey, pollen, royal jelly
and even cosmetics.
We eat rooster in O Pino
On the stage of The Way Arza-O Pedrouzo and from here
to Santiago it is possible to travel the route in 4x4 along wide
and accessible trails that run close to the old route. We will
stop for lunch at O Pedrouzo, in the municipality of O Pino;
where the specialty is Galo Pieiro, a breed of indigenous
rooster which can be prepared either baked or stewed. The
towns culinary festival is held early in August.
We reach Santiago de Compostela
In the afternoon we hop back into the 4x4 to begin an itinerary
that passes through the environs of A Lavacolla and brings us
closer to Monte do Gozo, a low hill from where the pilgrims
get their rst glimpse of the towers of the cathedral. Since
Holy Year 1993 it has turned into an area equipped with all
kinds of services for pilgrims: shelters, a hotel, restaurant and
cafs. If we want to feel the atmosphere of the pilgrimages
before reaching Santiago, this is the ideal place.
We reach Santiago de Compostela in the evening, therefore
we need to postpone the visit to the cathedral for the
following day. But we can enjoy a tour of the lively streets of
the old quarter mingling with pilgrims, university students,
tourists and local inhabitants. For dinner, we suggest going
tapas dining in the streets of the old town, where you will nd
the typical helpings of Galician empanada, octopus feira,
meat stew ao caldeiro, cockles, mussels, thinly sliced meat
(raxo), sausage lling (zorza), Padrn green peppers, small
sardines (xoubas) or even pigs ear, among other delights.
They can be accompanied by wines from the different Galician
denominations of origin, not forgetting the typical Santiago
almond cake for dessert. As for accommodation, Santiago has
a wide range of hotels to suit all tastes and needs.
Along the Way of Saint James,
pilgrims have been raising
clouds of heroic dust
for many centuries.
Camilo Jos Cela
I
> Honey Museum. Arza
I
> Fervenza das Hortas waterfall
I
> Monte do Gozo hill
22
26

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 27

The way of Saint James The North Way in a 4x4
I
day 5
I
We say farewell to Santiago at
the Fresh Produce Market
To say farewell to the city, a visit to the Fresh Produce Market is
an enriching experience. It is a lively place visited by many locals
and that offers all that Galicias sea and soil products. Fresh
sh and seafood from the ria, excellent meats, homemade
cheeses, honey, owers and even farmhouse poultry or
other products from the nearby vegetable gardens are sold in
this market. Within its premises some of its restaurants offer
to prepare the products we have purchased in the market for
a reasonable price.
I
day 4
I
We discover the hidden treasures of the Cathedral of Santiago
Visit the rooftop
After breakfast we propose you discover the cathedral from
a different perspective, by going up to its rooftop. There is a
guided tour that includes two consecutive itineraries. First, the
Pazo de Xelmrez, one of the main civil construction buildings
of Spanish Romanesque architecture and centre of feudal
power exercised by the church in Santiago. Youll be amazed
by the great 32-metre long vault in the Synodal Hall, whose
corbels are decorated with scenes from a lively banquet.
We then climb up the narrow stairs of the Palace tower to
tour the full length of the temples tiered rooftop, which will
give us a much better understanding of the different ages of
the cathedral and their respective styles. The towers, domes
and spires of the cathedral are just an arms reach away, and
we can see rooftops of Santiago all the way across to the
surrounding hills.
We enter the cathedral from the square known as Praza do
Obradoiro, with the impressive baroque faade presided
over by the Apostle Saint James portrayed as a pilgrim with
cape and staff. We climb the double staircase of the temple
and inside we are greeted by the magnicent view of the
Prtico da Gloria, masterpiece of Spanish Romanesque
sculpture. Again the Apostle Saint James can be found in the
mullion, where halfway up we can also see the handprints
of previous pilgrims sunk into the marble. Many are the
treasures that are kept inside the cathedral, as many are the
rites, including embracing the Apostle when we climb up to
the shrine of the main altar or stopping before his relics, kept
inside a silver urn inside the crypt.
We have lunch in the old quarter
and explore the gardens
At lunchtime, we suggest trying the sh, excellent in stew
or Galician style (with olive oil and paprika), and the seafood
from the Galician rias, steamed, grilled or accompanied
by different sauces. You can nd these delicacies at the
restaurants along the streets Ra do Franco, A Raa and
others in the old quarter.
In the afternoon we encourage you to discover the parks and
gardens of the old quarter. The most popular is the Alameda,
the citys lung. The tree-lined boulevard known as Paseo dos
Lens offers the best front views of the cathedral, especially
under the light of the setting sun. Century-old camellia trees,
ancient oaks, giant eucalypti, fountains and even one or two
churches will grab our attention along the way.
Another splendid lookout point is the Park of San Domingos
de Bonaval, located on the western slope of Monte da
Almciga. It offers singular areas of great beauty, such as a
desecrated cemetery, which because of its special acoustics
is used as a venue for musical performances.
For dinner we propose trying any of the dishes created by
the Galician nouvelle cuisine chefs in the citys signature
restaurants.
The remains of the Apostle
are kept in a silver urn,
in the cathedrals crypt
I
> Rooftop of the Cathedral
I
> Fresh Produce Market
I
> Park of San Domingos de Bonaval
I
> Cathedral
29

The way of Saint James
FURTHER INFORMATION_
Ro Tambre
Oroso
O Pino
Touro
Boqueixn
Paradela
Guntn
O Pramo
Lncara
Baralla
O Corgo
Lugo Baleira
Becerre
Monterroso
Toques
Taboada
Agolada
Silleda
A Estrada
Vedra
Teo
Sobrado
Boimorto
Antas
de Ulla
Vila de
Cruces
Serra do
Caren
Ro Ulla
Sigeiro
Frades
Dodro
Santiso
Pior
Nadela
A Proba
1-3
5-6
7-9
10-12
29-30
31-36
21-23
4
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
24
25
26
27
28
Pedrata do
Cebreiro
Triacastela
Samos
Sarria
Portomarn
Palas
de Rei
Melide
Arza
Santiago
de Compostela
N-640
N-640
N-630
N-633
N-535
C-535
N-VI
AP-53
AP-9
A-6
AC-260
AC-240
AC-905
LU-231
LU-221
LU-212
LU-612
LU-622
LU-642
LU-621
LU-710
LU-722
LU-631
LU-611
LU-232
AC-234
E-1 N-634
N-550
AG-59
N-525
PO-841
PO-213
PO-260
PO-905
PO-204
PO-205
PO-212
PO-840
N-547
N-547
N-540
START_
O Cebreiro
END_
Santiago de Compostela
DAYS_ 8
> Ethnographic Museum of O Cebreiro. Tel_ 982 369 025
> Monastery of San Xulin de Samos_ www.abadiadesamos.com
> Regulating Council of the P.D.O. Arza-Ulloa_ www.arzua-ulloa.org
> Pilgrims Office (Santiago)_ www.oficinadelperegrino.org
> Cathedral of Santiago_ www.catedraldesantiago.es
A week-long group trip to go on an
exciting horseback trail along Galicias
French Route. This ancient path is the most
well-known of The Way of Saint James. It
is a World Heritage Site and First European
Cultural Itinerary. In 2004 it was awarded
the Prince of Asturias award for Concord.
Our journey starts in O Cebreiro.
The French Route on Horseback
The French Route on Horseback
33
EXPERIENCE
day 1
I
Pedrafita do Cebreiro
1_ Village of O Cebreiro
2_ Ethnographic Museum
3_ Church of Santa Mara A Real
day 2
I
Pedrafita do Cebreiro
4_ Village of Liares Alto de San Roque summit
Hospital da Condesa Alto do Poio summit
Triacastela
5_ Town of Triacastela
6_ San Cristovo
Samos
7_ Chapel of O Ciprs
8_ Monastery of San Xulin de Samos
day 3
I
Samos
9_ Town of Samos
Sarria
10_ Ra Maior street
11_ Bridge of A spera
12_ Church of Santiago
13_ Barbadelo
Arza
26_ A Castaeda Ribadiso Arza
day 6
I
Arza
27_ Church of A Magdalena
O Pino
28_ Salceda Arca
Santiago de Compostela
29_ A Lavacolla San Marcos
Monte do Gozo (monument to the Pilgrim)
day 7
I
Santiago de Compostela
30_ Monte do Gozo
31_ Praza do Obradoiro - square
32_ Pilgrims Office
33_ Cathedral
34_ Ra do Franco - street
35_ Old quarter
day 8
I
Santiago de Compostela
36_ Cathedral rooftops
Paradela
14_ Ferreirs
Portomarn
15_ Belesar reservoir
16_ Church of San Nicolao
day 4
I
Portomarn
17_ Hamlets of Castromaior
Ventas de Narn A Previsa
Os Lameiros (chapel of San Marcos)
Monterroso
18_ Ligonde
Palas de Rei
19_ Monastery of Vilar de Donas
20_ Pambre castle
day 5
I
Palas de Rei
21_ Campo dos Romeiros
22_ Villages of Aldea de Riba and San Xulin
23_ River Pambre
Melide
24_ Hamlet of Leboreiro
(cabazo and church of Santa Mara)
25_ Furelos bridge
I
> Pilgrims resting in O Cebreiro
33
30

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 31

The way of Saint James The French Route on Horseback
In O Cebreiro we visit the typical pallozas
In the afternoon we reach O Cebreiro, a hamlet of
prehistoric origin at an altitude of 1,300 meters between
the mountain ranges of Os Ancares and O Courel, declared
National Historic-artistic site. We will have time to explore
this magical and ancient fairy tale-like village that is nestled
in the middle of the mountains.
Here the pallozas (traditional mountain dwellings) are
preserved, living examples of mans adaptation to the
environment. Their thick thatched roofs can bear the
weight of snow and the force of the mountain wind.
And their low stone walls have small windows and the
necessary doors to provide service to animals and people,
who in the past all lived in under the same roof. One of
them houses the Ethnographic Museum, which we can
visit to see how people lived here for centuries and until
quite recently. Others have been renovated and turned
into charming inns for pilgrims to stay.
A reliquary donated by the Catholic Monarchs
During the tour we can also visit the pre-Romanesque
church of Santa Mara A Real. Inside, it is the chapel of
the Holy Miracle. A glass cabinet holds the Holy Grail,
the chalice and paten, both Romanesque jewels, which are
believed to have performed the Eucharistic miracle of the
conversion of the consecrated bread and wine into the body
and blood of Christ. You will also see a reliquary donated by
the Catholic Monarchs in which to keep the relics.
For dinner we recommend that you taste the local gastronomy,
based on local products, both farmhouse poultry as sausages.
For dessert tasting the traditional cheese of O Cebreiro,
with Denomination of Origin, accompanied by honey from
the area is a must.
I
day 1
I
Meeting the participants and transfer to O Cebreiro
Experts evaluate our experience as riders
Organised horseback-riding trips are a good and original
option for you to enjoy the French Route, the most well-
known of the pilgrimage routes to Santiago. We will leave
the logistics required for taking care of the animals to
the experts. They will also be responsible for providing
a guide, all the necessary material and assistance along
the way, accommodation, meals, transfers to the starting
point and back to our destinations, support vehicles and
luggage carrier necessary during the stages.
The pilgrimage lasts seven days and includes six overnight
stays. It is distributed in ve horseback-riding stages
lasting between six and seven hours each day. Visits to
places of interest along The Way, or of historical, artistic,
architectural or landscape signicance are included. The
horses can be Spanish, English or Arab breed, of a gentler
or more spirited nature, depending on our preference
and depending on our experience as riders, which will be
evaluated by the experts.
I
> Sanctuary of O Cebreiro
I
> Alto de San Roque summit. O Cebreiro
I
> Pallozas (traditional mountain dwellings). O Cebreiro
33
32

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 33

The way of Saint James The French Route on Horseback
I
day 3
I
From Samos to Portomarn
From Sarria one can achieve the Compostela,
a document of medieval origin that certifes having completed The Way
I
day 2
I
From O Cebreiro to Samos
We get up early in the morning and after a hearty breakfast we
saddle our horses and hit the road. We pass through Liares,
ride uphill past the houses to the Romanesque church at Alto
de San Roque, where we nd the statue of a pilgrim looking
out over the landscape; the Hospital da Condesa, crossing
its attractive cobbled path; and the Alto do Poio. These are
all places of great beauty and scenic wealth.
We stop to have lunch in Triacastela
At around lunchtime we arrive in Triacastela, which also
appeared as eleventh stage of The Way in the Calixtine
Codex. It is a small village that lives from the pilgrimage
tradition, and in the centre we can see where the pilgrims
lodgings are located. We stop to have lunch and rest at an
inn by the towns exit.
Early in the afternoon we continue our journey following
the route to Samos, which turns off along the environs
of the river Sarria. We nd several examples of popular
architecture and landscapes that consist of indigenous oaks
and soutos (areas with chestnuts), geographic features, and
rivers. We reach San Cristovo and go down bordering the
river Oribio, crossing two small bridges, while trotting
among leafy chestnuts.
We reach Samos,
where we can dine trout and eel
We pass several villages until we reach Samos, the end of
this stage. We visit the Mozarabic chapel of the Cypress,
declared a National Monument and that gets its name
from the stout tree that stands next to it. And we also visit
the famous monastery of San Xulin de Samos, declared
of Cultural Interest Site, which offers a hospice where we
can relax, rest and get our strength back. Its enormous
size and the variety of styles are surprising, both due to
the fact that its construction lasted for many centuries.
At dinner we can taste the famous trout and eel from the
rivers Oribio and Sarria.
After breakfast we saddle our horses again and leave behind
us the beautiful and fertile valley of Samos in order to reach
one of the most important cities along The Way: Sarria. If
it is early, along the main street Ra Maior we will see a
mass of pilgrims, for those that come from previous stages
meet with those who start the journey here. From Sarria
pilgrims can already earn the Compostela, a medieval
document that certies having completed The Way, and
which can only be obtained by claiming religious grounds.
If the motivations are not religious, pilgrims get a different
Pilgrims certication.
We leave the village and go down to cross the beautiful
bridge of A spera and then continue through an old
oak grove until we reach Barbadelo, where we can visit
the Romanesque church of Saint James, a National
Monument. In the village we stop for lunch.
After a rest we continue riding while we pass different
locations until we get to Ferreirs, the rst village of Lugos
Ribeira Sacra. The landscape is a mixture of typical hamlets
with houses with slate roofs and meadows with cows grazing.
Further on we get our rst glimpse of the river Mio at the
Belesar reservoir, which we cross over the bridge until we
get to Portomarn, an important reference on The Way.
In Portomarn the Galician eel pie (empanada
de anguila) and grape eau-de-vie are typical
products
The former town of Portomarn was ooded when
the reservoir was built, but rst several buildings were
transferred stone by stone, including the church of San
Nicolao (formerly of San Xon). It is special due to its
structure, that resembles a fortress, and its rich exterior
decoration. The ruins of the old town and of the old bridge
can sometimes be seen when the level of the water is low.
There are a number of lodges and inns in the town. For
dinner dont forget that the eel empanada (Galician pie)
and the almond cake, accompanied by the famous grape
eau-de-vie from Portomarn are typical dishes.
I
> Monastery of Samos
I
> Facade of the Monastery of Samos
I
> Church of San Nicolao. Portomarn
I
> Ancient bridge and chapel of As Neves. Portomarn
33
34

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 35

The way of Saint James The French Route on Horseback
I
day 5
I
From Palas de Rei to Arza
We have breakfast and saddle our horses at the lower part of
the villa of Palas de Rei, known as Campo dos Romeiros, next
to its livestock unit, where the horses spend the night and where
the famous livestock and agricultural products fairs are held.
We leave the villa and pass through the lovely hamlets of
Aldea de Riba and San Xulin, scored by streams and under
the shade of old oak trees. We are crossing the lands that
Emilia Pardo Bazn immortalized in her novel Los pazos de
Ulloa. Taking a deviation of several kilometres from The Way
we cross the landscape of the basin of the river Pambre,
with its castle; with the river bathing its foundations, and
where water mills, wooden bridges and the riverbank
vegetation can be found.
I
day 4
I
From Portomarn to Palas de Rei
Early in the morning, after a good breakfast, we set off on
horseback and soon enter trails that run among masses of
pines and oaks. We pass the villages of Castromaior, Ventas
de Narn, A Previsa and Os Lameiros, where the chapel
of San Marcos is located, among century-old oak trees.
We arrive at Ligonde, where Charles V and his son Philip II,
The Ways most distinguished pilgrims, spent the night back
in the 16
th
century. Its hospital was of great importance,
and today an ancient pilgrims cemetery and a large
cruceiro, the most representative stone cross on The Way,
can still be seen. In this village we will stop to have lunch;
we can enjoy a Galician stew, a beef or lamb barbecue and
a dessert made with the creamy cheese with Denomination
of Origin Arza-Ulloa.
In Palas de Rei we visit the Pambre castle, the
only fortress that withstood the attacks of
the Irmandios in the Middle Ages
In the afternoon, taking a deviation from The Way, we nd
the monastery of Vilar de Donas, very near Palas de
Rei. The donas were two noblewomen that sponsored its
construction. They can be seen in the murals from the 14
th

century that hang in its interior. Around the temple we nd
the tombs of the knights of the Military Order of the Knights of
Saint James, who were in charge of protecting The Way.
Palas de Rei keeps many treasures and valuable Romanesque
churches, stone manors and medieval castles, such as
Pambre castle, the only fortress to withstand the attacks by
the Irmandios during in the Middle Ages. We must then choose
a place to have dinner from among the many restaurants and
taverns in the town, making sure to taste an appetizer made
with cheese with Denomination of Origin Arza-Ulloa,
either farm fresh or cured. The town has several hostels and a
complete offer of accommodation.
In Ligonde King Charles V
and his son Phillip II spent the night.
They were the most
distinguished pilgrims to travel
The Way in the 16
th
century
We reach Melide, famous for it octopus cooked
feira style feira
Later, in the village of Leboreiro, we nd the ideal place for
a group photo next to a cabazo, a circular granary similar
to a basket with thatched roof, and the medieval church
of Santa Mara.
Soon we arrive in Melide, crossing the medieval bridge of
Furelos, one of the jewels of civil architecture on The Way.
The village is famous for its octopus cooked in the traditional
feira style, which is worthy of its fame, and for this reason
we must stop to taste it together with some rye bread.
We exit Melide, downhill, through streams and a eucalyptus
grove. We arrive in A Castaeda, where the lime kilns for
the construction of the Cathedral of Santiago are located and
which pilgrims fed with lime stones that they carried in their
backpacks from the mountains of O Cebreiro and Triacastela.
We pass Ribadiso, a village where one of the loveliest
pilgrims hostels along The Way is located, consisting of
restored cottages, a lareira (traditional Galician kitchen) in
the dining room and a garden with a staircase that leads
straight to the river Iso. In Arza we nd all kinds of services
for pilgrims. Here we have dinner and spend the night.
In the parish of A Castaeda,
in Arza we nd the lime kilns
that were used for the construction
of the Cathedral of Santiago
I
> Pambre castle. Palas de Rei
I
> Leboreiro. Melide
I
> Monastery of Vilar de Donas. Palas de Rei
I
> feira style octopus
37

The way of Saint James The French Route on Horseback
33
36

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE
After breakfast we ride to the holy City of Santiago. The
municipal regulations stipulate that the arrival of pilgrims on
horseback must be before nine in the morning. We enter the
majestic Praza do Obradoiro square, surrounded by art
made from stone. This is the moment for the last photo with
the animals in front of the cathedrals magnicent baroque
faade, before the organisers take them away.
At the Pilgrims Ofce we are given
the Compostela
We recommend that you then visit the Pilgrims Ofce, very
near the cathedral, in Ra do Vilar, to get the nal seal on the
pilgrim credentials and the traditional pilgrimage certicate
known as the Compostela, if we claim religious grounds.
Otherwise we will only be granted the pilgrims certicate.
We take advantage of the opportunity to explore the
cathedral faades before the Pilgrims Mass that is held in
the temple at noon. Inside we can follow the tradition of
embracing the Apostle, at the main altar; visit his relics that
are kept in a carved silver urn in the crypt; and wonder at
the masterpiece of Romanesque art, the Prtico da Gloria.
I
day 7
I
We must enter the city of Santiago before 9:00 am
I
day 6
I
From Arza to Monte do Gozo
We leave Arza after breakfast, which can consist of delicious
rosquillas (donuts), melindres (biscuits) and some of its
famous cheese. We will also say farewell to the church of A
Madalena, to a lovely plantain tree-lined boulevard and to
the monuments in honour of the famous tetilla cheese.
We cross leafy groves, passing through Salceda and Arca,
in the municipality of O Pino. We stop here to rest before
tackling the nal stretch up to A Lavacolla, where long
ago pilgrims washed themselves in the river before entering
Compostela. We have lunch and get ready to enter San
Marcos and Monte do Gozo.
Monte do Gozo is a place of ineffable emotions. From this
hilltop we get our rst glimpse of towers of the cathedral.
Since the Holy Year 93 the area has been redeveloped with
lovely leisure areas and it also offers a wide range of services
for pilgrims: hostels, restaurants, hotels, bars, a chapel and
fountain. It is the perfect place to share all the anecdotes
and experiences of the journey with colleagues and other
pilgrims. And, of course, the high point of the day is a group
photograph in front of the monument to Pilgrims, before
having dinner and resting.
During the Pilgrims Mass
we can witness the spectacle
of the botafumeiro (giant censer),
swung by eight tiraboleiros
If your arrive on specied liturgical dates, then you may
witness the unforgettable spectacle of the botafumeiro, a
giant censer that hangs from the ceiling and swings from
one end of the transept to the other, almost touching the
vault, thanks to the strength and ability of eight experienced
tiraboleiros (those in charge of swinging the censer).
And, for lunch, Galicias best fsh,
meat and seafood
At lunchtime, Santiago offers the best of Galician gastronomy.
In the nearby Ra do Franco there is a display of the nest
meat, sh and seafood kept in refrigerated showcases and in
tanks at the entrance of the different restaurants.
In the afternoon we encourage you to explore until dinner
time the cobbled streets of the old quarter, lled with
monuments, museums, exhibit halls and wonderful urban
parks that youll love. Santiagos nightlife is also quite a
revelation when the stones and buildings are caressed by
the light from the streetlights, which immerse us in an
unreal atmosphere.
I
day 8
I
We see Santiago from
the rooftop of the cathedral
After breakfast we suggest you take advantage of your
last day in the city to discover Santiago from the unusual
perspective of the rooftop of the cathedral. Then you can
end your stay relaxing from the effort of the journey at an
urban spa. Many of the spas offer thermal circuits specically
designed for pilgrims, to go back rested and recovered.
You will see the wonders of The Way,
on route to the longed for Compostela
-Oh violet and golden hill!- pilgrim,
on a plain, among slender poplars
Antonio Machado
I
> Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
I
> Botafumeiro
39

The way of Saint James
44
EXPERIENCE
FURTHER INFORMATION_
Ortigueira
Cerdido
As Somozas
A Capela
Man
Guitiriz
Aranga
As Pontes de
Garca Rodrguez
Ro Tambre
Freixeiro
San
Sadurnio
Mugardos
Monfero
Bergondo
Cambre
Culleredo
Arteixo
A Laracha
Tordoia
Ordes
Oroso
O Pino
Touro
Arza
Melide
Muras
Xermade
Toques
Friol
Boimorto
Abegondo
Carral
Cesuras
Curtis
Oza dos
Ros
Palas
de Rei
Paderne
Sada
Oleiros
Ares
Vilasantar
Sobrado
Parque Natural
Fragas do Eume
Serra do
Caren
Ro Eume
Ro Ulla
Veiga
Sueiro
Pontepedra
Sigeiro
Frades
Carral
Teixeiro
Pastoriza
Valdovio
2
3
5
6
7
8
35
36
37
38
49
50
12
22
17
8
> Tower of Os Andrade (Pontedeume). Tel_ 981 430 270
> Bruma hostel (Mesa). Tel_ 981 687 001
> Pilgrims Office (Santiago)_ www.peregrinossantiago.es
START_
Cedeira
END_
Santiago de Compostela
DAYS_ 4
Santiago de Compostela
51_ Tambre industrial park
52_ Meixonfro
53_ Park of Pablo Iglesias
54_ Xon XXIII - avenue
55_ Convent of San Francisco
56_ Faculty of Medicine
57_ Hostal dos Reis Catlicos - hotel
58_ Praza do Obradoiro - square
59_ Pilgrims Office
60_ Cathedral
61_ Ra do Franco - street
62_ Ra do Vilar - street
day 4
I
Ordes
41_ Lugar de A Ra
42_ Trabe - mill
43_ O Cubo - bridge
44_ Outeiro de Abaixo - hamlet
45_ Church of San Xulin de Poulo
46_ Villages of A Senra - Carballo Casanova de Pereiro
47_ Ponte Pereira
48_ Village of Carrs
Oroso
49_ Baxoia
50_ Bridge over the river Tambre
W e will experience a fast-paced adventure
just like the pilgrims from northern Europe
and the British Isles did in the past. Before
travelling by land to the holy City of Santiago
they disembarked in the north of Galicia.
This coastline boasts some of Europes
highest cliffs, in the mountain range Serra
da Capelada, where the beautiful sanctuary
of Saint Andr de Teixido is located. We will
sail to Ferrol, where we will begin the English
Way to Santiago de Compostela by bicycle.
The English Way on a sailboat
and on a mountain bike
The English Way on a sailboat and on a mountain bike
day 1
I
Cedeira
1_ Town of Cedeira
2_ Garita da Herbeira - hut
3_ Sanctuary of Saint Andr de Teixido
4_ Port of Cedeira
Valdovio
5_ Beach of Pantn
6_ Punta Frouxeira
Ferrol
7_ Cape Prior
8_ Beaches of San Xurxo and Donios
9_ Port of Curuxeiras
10_ Beachfront of A Maria
11_ A Madalena quarter
day 2
I
Ferrol
12_ Castle of San Felipe
13_ Port of Curuxeiras
14_ Recemil and Caranza quartersa
Narn
15_ A Gndara industrial park
16_ Bridge over the river Xubia
Neda Fene
Cabanas
17_ Beach of A Madalena
Pontedeume
18_ Pontedeume bridge
19_ Praza do Conde square
20_ Tower of Os Andrade
21_ Churches of As Virtudes and Santiago
22_ Church of Breamo
Mio
23_ Bridge over the river Baxoi
24_ Town of Mio
day 3
I
Mio
25_ Ra Real - street
Paderne
26_ Bridge of O Porco
27_ Town of Paderne
28_ Villages of O Porto Chantada
Betanzos
29_ San Martn de Tiobre
30_ Os Remedios
31_Church of Santa Mara de Azougue
32_ Church of San Francisco
33_ Praza dos Irmns Garca Naveira square
34_ Park of O Pasatempo
Abegondo
35_ Limin bridge
36_ Presedo bridge
37_ Villages of Francos Bocelo Valardel A Malata
Mesa
38_ Bruma hostel
Ordes
39_ Villages of O Seixo Carreira Mmoas -
A Carballeira - A Ra
40_ Church of San Paio de Buscs
A CORUA
1&4
15-16
18-21
23-25
9-11&13-14
Narn
Neda
Pontedeume
Cabanas
Cedeira
Ferrol
Fene
26
Mio
27-28
29-34
39-41
51-56
57-62
46-48
42-45
Betanzos
Mesa
Santiago
de Compostela
I
> Cedeira
AP-9
AC-401
AC-413
AC-240
AC-234
AC-224
AC-231
LU-232
LU-233
LU-231
AC-230
AC-232
AC-862
AC-103
AC-110
AC-121
AC-152
AC-153
AC-151
AC-564
LU-861
LU-170
AC-101
AC-113
E-1
E-1
N-550
C-540
N-634
N-547
AG-55
AP-9F
AC-14
AG-64
N-VI
E-70
A-6
A-8
C-646
AG-56
44
40

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 41

The way of Saint James The English Way on a sailboat and on a mountain bike
We stop along the way to swim
in an idyllic beach
We say farewell to this place full of myths, legends and
rituals and suggest walking 12 kilometres to Cedeira,
along a trail full of magnicent natural beauty. To emulate
the ancient pilgrims from the north of Europe and from
the British Isles who long ago travelled to Santiago and
arrived at this shore by boat, at mid-morning we propose
boarding on a sailing boat in the port of Cedeira to sail
all the way to Ferrol.
The journey can take from three to four hours, depending
on the winds. We will see the rugged and wild coastline
that we had previously seen from land and we can
participate as novices manoeuvring the sailboat. Weather
permitting, we can drop anchor in small coves that are
otherwise inaccessible to take a dip, or else we can swim
in other more famous beaches such as Pantn, considered
a genuine surng paradise.
We recommend staying overnight in the environment of
Cedeira to make the best of the following day. The region of
Ferrol offers wide range of hotels of up to four stars that coexist
with country guesthouses and other charming lodgings.
Europes highest clifs
After breakfast we head off to a place known as Garita de
Herbeira that we access from Cedeira. Along the way it is
common to see wild horses grazing freely on the hills. The
Garita is a spectacular lookout point on the north coast of
the Atlantic, nestled in the heart of the mountain range
Serra da Capelada. The small granite masonry hut offers
a magnicent panoramic view of Europes highest cliffs, at
an almost vertical drop of 600 metres above sea level.
I
day 1
I
Sailing from Cedeira to Ferrol
Close by is the sanctuary of Saint Andr de Teixido. A
popular proverb holds that those who do not go there
during their lifetime will do so after their death. The
chapel is in a small white village that stands among the
cliffs, in the only point where the mountains are smooth
enough for it to t. Inside the chapel there is an original
altarpiece that houses the mannerist image of the Apostle
Saint Andrew. Pay attention to the votive offerings left in
the chapel by those hoping for the miraculous intercession
of the saint; or the sanandresios, colourful gurines
made from bread dough that represent the symbols of the
arrival of Saint Andrew to these lands.
Going for tapas in Ferrols old quarter
Either on board or at a beach we can enjoy a picnic
specially prepared for the occasion. Keep your eyes open
at sea because it is not unusual to sight moon sh and
schools of pilot whales or dolphins. Leaving behind Punta
Frouxeira, Cabo Prior and the sandy beaches of San
Xurxo and Donios we enter the narrow estuary of Ferrol
all the way to the port of Curuxeiras, in Ferrol Vello (Old
Ferrol), which for centuries has welcomed pilgrims arriving
by sea. We can also see the non-stop coming and going
of vessels from and to Mugardos, a small sea town on the
opposite shore.
After landing and settling into our chosen accommodation
we can visit the Old Ferrol at a more leisurely pace for the
rest of the evening. Just behind the promenade known as
Paseo de A Maria the streets still preserve the typical
seaside avour. At dinner time we suggest that you do as
the locals from Ferrol, who love to go tapas-dining in the A
Madalena quarter, declared a Historic-artistic Interest Site.
A popular proverb claims that to
Santo Andr de Teixido
vai de morto o que non foi de vivo
(those who do not go there during their
lifetime will do so after their death)
I
> Garita de Herbeira hut and view of A Capelada mountain range
I
> Sanctuary of Saint Andr de Teixido
I
> A Madalena quarter. Ferrol
44
42

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 43

The way of Saint James The English Way on a sailboat and on a mountain bike
We have lunch in Pontedeume
and stay the night in Mio
In Pontedeume we stop to explore the centre and have
lunch. In the main streets of Santo Agostio, Os Ferreiros
and Real you will nd restaurants to satisfy your appetite.
Do not forget to order some of the typical desserts, such
as the cake from Pontedeume, melindres (pastries), sponge
cake (proia), or the sponge cake ring (manguito eums).
The Praza do Conde square, the tower of Os Andrade,
that completed part of the towns wall, the church of
As Virtudes and of Santiago are some of the towns
key sightseeing points. We get back on the road and,
leaving Pontedeume, we recommend taking a detour to
the church of Breamo, where in addition to visiting this
Romanesque temple we can get a splendid panoramic
view of the rias of Betanzos, Ares and Ferrol.
Farther on, an unusual medieval single-span bridge over
the river Baxoi will lead us to the nal stage in Mio,
where we nd inns, lodging houses and rural houses
where to dine and spend the night.
We visit the castle of San Felipe,
built by order of Phillip II
Before setting off on the English Way on our mountain
bikes, either our own or leased, we cannot leave Ferrol
without visiting the majestic castle of San Felipe, in the
narrowest part of the estuary. It was one of the points of
a triangle that defended the city against enemy attacks,
together with the castles of San Martn and A Palma,
located to the other side of the estuary. That was king
Phillip IIs idea when he ordered it to be built. Visits start
at 10:00 am and its interior reveals the 32 most interesting
points of this enormous building, while we can also
learn the military terminology as we observe batteries,
hornworks or caponiers.
I
day 2
I
We bike out of Ferrol and head towards Mio
From Ferrol to Pontedeume
After the visit we are ready to begin the first stage of the
English Way on two wheels that will lead us to Mio. We
leave from the port of Curuxeiras, where we landed
the previous afternoon. This Way of Saint James route
is perfectly signposted in all its stages and also in the
city, so we will easily find our way through the streets
and squares to the neighbourhoods of Recemil and
Caranza, in the outskirts.
From here we reach the industrial park of A Gndara,
very close to Narn. Then comes Neda, after passing
the tide mill and the bridge over the river Xubia. The
itinerary continues through Fene and Cabanas. In the
estuary of the Eume, passing the beach of A Madalena,
we follow the seafront promenade to Pontedeume,
which gets its name from the 14
th
century bridge, one of
The Ways symbols that we will be crossed. The bridge
originally had, in addition to a pilgrims hospital, a total of
68 arches, of which today only 15 remain.
I
> Castle of San Felipe. Ferrol
I
> Pontedeume
I
> Ferrol
45

The way of Saint James The English Way on a sailboat and on a mountain bike
44
44

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE
We stop for a bite in the hostel of Bruma,
in Mesa
We leave Betanzos taking a picnic lunch with us in our bike
saddlebags so that we can stop for a bite whenever we get
hungry along The Way. The trail goes uphill to the town of
Abegondo, where it is crossed by the bridges of Limin
and Presedo and continues towards Francos, Bocelo
and Valardel. The itinerary enters the hills and reaches
A Malata. Eventually we reach Bruma, where there is a
hostel for pilgrims and we can stop to rest and eat.
The road crosses the Praza dos Irmns Garca Naveira
square, which can be considered the centre of the town.
A regal fountain stands in the centre, with a bronze
sculpture of Diana The Hunter made at a Parisian workshop
in the 19
th
century. We suggest you visit the park of O
Pasatempo, not far from the town centre and that will
surprise you with its tremendous originality. You can see
the ruins of the Encyclopaedic Garden, consisting of mazes,
fountains, canals and statues of up to 265 Popes, literati
and emperors. It was built between 1893 and 1914 as
required by the brothers Garca Naveira, the towns Spanish
colonial benefactors, as a pioneer theme park that was
already mentioned in the travel guides of the period.
I
day 3
I
From Mio to Ordes
After a good breakfast we leave Mio through the street
Ra Real where we are once again come across the sea.
Following the coast line, we continue on to the medieval
bridge of O Porco, which crosses the river Lambre. At the
foot of the bridge you will see the carved sculpture that
represents the wild boar, symbol of the noble house of the
Andrade family. Crossing the hills we will pass Paderne,
followed by O Porto and Chantada.
We visit Betanzos
and its unusual squares and parks
Here we begin a downhill stretch towards Betanzos, capital of
one of the provinces of the ancient Kingdom of Galicia. This
descent offers beautiful panoramic views over the estuary
and marshlands until we enter the villa that was formerly one
of Galicias main towns in the era of the Catholic Monarchs.
The road enters San Martn de Tiobre, where Betanzos
o Vello (the Old) is located, passing the area of Os
Remedios, and from there we enter the old quarter through
one of the gates of the medieval wall that is still standing.
It is well worth visiting the churches of Santa Mara do
Azougue and, especially, the church of San Francisco to
see the medieval tombs which it houses.
The Encyclopaedic Garden of Betanzos
had statues of 265 Popes,
literati and emperors
I
> Betanzos
I
> Church of San Francisco. Betanzos
We end the day in Ordes
After a rest we hit the road again towards the town of Ordes.
The route passes through O Seixo, Carreira, Mmoas
and A Carballeira, where there begins a stretch through
rolling hills that leads us to the hamlet of A Ra. Here
there is a country guesthouse, an example of the traditional
farmhouses from the region of Ordes, where we can have
dinner and spend the night. Its origins are thought to be
linked to the nearby church of San Paio de Buscs, that
we can visit. Another option is to take a detour toward the
town of Ordes, right on the crossing of the N-550, which
offers all the services necessary to dine and relax.
44
46

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 47

The way of Saint James The English Way on a sailboat and on a mountain bike
I
day 4
I
From Ordes
to Santiago de Compostela
We recommend getting up early and after a hearty
breakfast continuing the route from A Ra. We leave the
mill of Trabe and the bridge of O Cubo behind us and
then continue toward Outeiro de Abaixo, where we take
a tree-lined path that leads to the church of San Xulin
de Poulo and then to A Senra.
The Way reaches the towns of Carballo, Casanova de
Pereiro and crosses the bridge of Ponte Pereira, that
could be of medieval origin, and leads to Carrs, an area of
springs that can sometimes make crossing rather difcult.
We then continue toward Baxoia and arrive at Sigeiro,
where we cross the bridge over the river Tambre. Its
blend of styles is unusual, for it has four Romanesque
arches and a gothic one, due to repair works carried out
in the 14
th
century. Currently the N-550 makes uses of it to
cross this river, which is famous for its trout.
We reach Santiago de Compostela
From here onwards the trail runs almost parallel to the N-550
until it reaches the industrial park of Tambre. Then we
enter Meixonfro and shortly after we nd the beautiful
park of Pablo Iglesias, now in the city of Santiago.
We are getting closer and closer to the cathedral and only
have to follow avenue Xon XXIII. Under a large canopy
held up by large pillars shaped like inverted cones stands
the north campus of the University and its parks; behind
it is Monte Po, and behind it, Monte do Pedroso. This
communications network links the outskirts of Santiago
with its old quarter.
We approach Compostela
as if we were approaching a miracle.
lvaro Cunqueiro
I
> Prtico da Gloria
The historic Praza do Obradoiro square
and the cathedral
In the monument area the rst majestic building that we
get a glimpse of is the convent of San Francisco, and on
its right, the Faculty of Medicine followed by the Hostal
dos Reis Catlicos. Between this old pilgrims hospital, to
the right, and the magical arch of Pazo de Xelmrez, to the
left, we behold the Praza do Obradoiro square.
Now we can nally celebrate the successful completion
of our pilgrimage before the breathtaking faade of
the cathedral, a magnicent baroque backdrop for this
Romanesque temple. Under the gaze of the Apostle
Saint James, who stands dressed as a pilgrim with staff
and cape, anked by the great 74 metre-high towers that
stand sky-high, we can share the excitement along with
many other pilgrims.
Before entering the temple we recommend you visit the
Pilgrims Ofce in Ra do Vilar, next to the As Prateras
square, in the area of the cathedral. It provides a baggage
locker, bike parking and bike forwarding service. Our
credentials will be sealed and we will be given the
Compostela, a document of medieval origin that
certies having completed The Way.
At twelve we can attend the Pilgrims Mass in the
cathedral, embrace the Apostle and visit his relics by
going down to the crypt below the Main Altar. We can
contemplate the Prtico da Gloria, the Romanesque
masterpiece carved by Master Mateo, showing us the
apocalyptic vision of the heavenly Jerusalem.
Time to have lunch. Almost directly linked to the Praza
do Obradoiro is the street Ra do Franco, that gets its
name from the fact that in the past it was the place where
the French pilgrims lodged. Today its culinary offer is
enormous, with signature restaurants and tapas bars. It is
interesting to note that many show their products off by
their entrance in sh tanks and refrigerated showcases.
Guided tour or audio guide
If you spend the afternoon in Santiago de Compostela,
walking around all the squares and streets of the old
quarter is a must. In the street Ra do Vilar there are two
tourist ofces that provide useful material and guidance
and where we can request a guided tour or an audio
guide, which enables us to discover the city at our own
pace without missing a single detail, anecdote or legend.
The street Ra do Franco
owes its name to the fact that
in the past it was where the French
pilgrims lodged
I
> Church of San Francisco. Santiago de Compostela
49

The way of Saint James
day 1
I
Tui
1_ Old quarter
2_ Convent of As Clarisas
3_ Cathedral
day 2
I
Tui
4_ Parroquia de Rebordns (cruceiro, Ponte da Veiga,
chapel of A Virxe do Camio, Ponte das Febres)
5_ Hamlet of A Madalena
6_ Ribadelouro
O Porrio
7_ Chapel of San Benito
8_ Church of Santa Mara
Mos
9_ Church of Santa Eulalia
10_ Pazo of the Marquesses of Mos - stone manor house
11_ Stone cross Cruceiro dos Cabaleiros
12_ Alto de Inxertado - summit
Redondela
13_ Roman milestone of Vilar de Infesta
14_ Meseta de Chan das Pipas - plateau
15_ Convent of Vilavella
16_ Viaduct of Pedro Floriani
day 3
I
Redondela
17_ Viaduct of Pontevedra
18_ Chapel of Santa Maria
19_ Setefontes
Soutomaior
20_ Arcade
Pontevedra
21_ Ponte Sampaio
22_ A Canicouva
23_ Sanctuary of A Peregrina
24_ Old quarter
25_ Marismas da Alba - marshes
26_ Island of As Esculturas
27_ Provincial Museum
Poio
28_ Monastery of San Xon
day 4
I
Poio
29_ Combarro (San Roque square,
beach of Padrn, stone granaries)
O Grove
30_ Port
Ra de Arousa and river Ulla
31_ Catamaran tour
Pontecesures
32_ Town of Pontecesures
Padrn
33_ Church of Santiago
34_ Fountain of O Carmo
Caldas de Reis
35_ Town of Caldas de Reis (spas)
Padrn
36_ Town of Padrn
The Portuguese Way and
the Way of Saint James by boat
e propose discovering the suggestive
path of the Portuguese Way from Tui to
Santiago in a week. During the journey will
we recreate the legend of the Translatio
Sancti Jacobi (the transfer of the remains
of the Apostle) on an attractive sea-river
journey that includes the largest estuary in
Galicia and goes up the river Ulla. We will
come across towns bathed by sweet and
salt waters that house a cathedral-fortress,
medieval bridges and even a set of raised
stone granaries standing by the sea shore.
W
The Portuguese Way and the Way of Saint James by boat
55
EXPERIENCE
START_
Tui
END_
Santiago de Compostela
DAYS_ 7
FURTHER INFORMATION_
> Provincial Museum of Pontevedra_ www.museo.depo.es
> Monastery of San Xon de Poio. Tel_ 986 770 244 (monastery) /
986 770 000 (lodging)
> Museo do Pobo Galego (Santiago)_ www.museodopobo.es
> Centro Galego de Arte Contempornea (Santiago)_ www.cgac.org
day 5
I
Padrn
36_ Town of Padrn
37_ Sanctuary of A Escravitude
38_ Village of Angueira de Suso
Teo
39_ Ra de Francos - street
Brin
40_ Castro Lupario - ancient settlement
Teo
41_ Villages of Osebe Casalonga Pedreira
Ames
42_ O Milladoiro
43_ Agro dos Monteiros
Santiago de Compostela
44_ Ruins of the castle of A Rocha
45_ A Choupana
46_ Chapel of Santa Marta
47_ Avenue Rosala de Castro
48_ Avenue of Xon Carlos I
49_ Porta Faxeira
50_ Ra do Franco - street
51_ Praza do Obradoiro - square
52_ Cathedral
day 6
I
Santiago de Compostela
53_ Old quarter
54_ Cathedral
55_ Park of Bonaval
56_ MuseodoPoboGalego(Museumof theGalicianPeople)
57_ Centro Galego de Arte Contempornea
(Galician Contemporary Art Centre)
day 7
I
Santiago de Compostela
57_ Fresh Produce Market
Touro
Melide
A Estrada
Forcarei
Cuntis
Moraa
Barro
Portas
Cerdedo
A Lama
Beariz
Ponte
Caldelas
Cenlle
Ton
Ribadavia
A Caiza
Meln
O Covelo Mondariz
Crecente
Cortegada
Cartelle
A Merca
Ramirs
Celanova
Vilamarn
OURENSE
Bande
Ponteareas
Salceda de
Caselas As Neves
Arbo
Carballeda
de Avia
San Cristovo
de Cea
Leiro
PORTUGAL
O Carballio
Maside Amoeiro
Silleda
Boqueixn
Brin
Ames
Noia
Lousame
Rianxo Boiro
Catoira
Laln
Agolada
Rodeiro
Vedra
Teo
Vila de
Cruces
Cambados
Meao
Marn
Bueu
Moaa
Cangas
Vigo
Nigrn
Baiona
Oia
Sanxenxo
Vilagarca
de Arousa
Vilanova
de Arousa
Campo
Lameiro
Palas de Rei
Serra do
Caren
Ro Ulla
Ro Lrez
Ro Mio
Ra de Vigo
Ra de Pontevedra
Ra de Arousa
Ro Tambre
Serra do
Candn
Serra do
Cando
Santiso
20
21
22
28
30
31
32
35
29
1-3
4-6
7-8
9-12
13-19
25-26
37-38
39-41
42-43
44-47
48-57
Tui
O Porrio
Redondela
Mos
Soutomaior
23-24&27
33-34&36
PONTEVEDRA
Poio
O Grove
Pontecesures
Padrn
Caldas de Reis
Santiago de
Compostela
AP-9
A-55
A-52
AC-543
AC-305
PO-534
OU-902
LU-201
OU-213
OU-212
OU-540
OU-411
OU-301
AC-240
AC-260
N-550
N-541
N-120
N-559
N-525
N-540
N-640
N-640
PO-841
PO-213
PO-260 PO-840
PO-212
PO-204
PO-205
PO-201
PO-905
PO-220
PO-300
PO-320
PO-222
PO-902
PO-230
PO-232
PO-240
PO-244
PO-252
PO-254
PO-403
PO-351
PO-552
PO-234
PO-224
N-550
C-531
AG-57
AG-31
AG-53
AG-41
AG-56
AG-11
55
50

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 51

The way of Saint James The Portuguese Way and the Way of Saint James by boat
I
day 2
I

From Tui to Redondela
After breakfast we begin to walk the rst stage in Galicia of
the Portuguese Way, between Tui and Redondela, consisting
of a gentle path that follows the course of the river Louro,
alternating asphalt roads with paths. We begin at the exit
of Tui, next to the imposing 18
th
century stone cross of
Rebordns and its Romanesque church, whose capitals
show scenes from Herods dinner.
The route moves on toward the chapel of the Virxe do
Camio, after crossing Ponte da Veiga on the river Louro.
Farther on, along a forest track, we reach Ponte das Febres
on the river San Simn. The bridge gets his name because it
is said that here Saint Thelmo became fatally ill. You can read
the reference to the event on a plaque.
Sheltered by the riverbank vegetation of the river Louro we
arrive at the village of A Madalena. As we leave we nd
a calvary consisting of ve stone crosses and then a beautiful
slab bridge on the Louro. We continue toward Ribadelouro
leaving Gndaras de Budio, a wetland of great ecological
and archaeological value to the west.
We recommend arriving in Tui early in the afternoon, through
the AP-9, A-55, the N-550 or PO-552. It is a beautiful villa
enriched by the river landscape of the Mio, that serves as
the natural frontier with Portugal. It was one of the capitals
of Galicia until 1833 and boasts the only cathedral in the
whole province of Pontevedra. These are more than enough
reasons for us to wander along its streets, after having
checked-in to our chosen accommodations chosen from
among a wide range of possibilities, including the Parador
(state-owned hotel) located one kilometre from the towns
centre, opposite the International Bridge designed by
Eiffel, that connects with Portugal.
We begin the visit by going up to the promontory which is the
villa of Tui. We will feel as if time had stopped in the Middle
Ages as we go up the streets Ra Canicoba, Entrefornos,
do Corpo Santo or when we pass through the tunnel de
Encerradas. This is a vaulted passageway that runs below
the convent of the Claire Nuns and that connects the high
part of the villa with the area inside the walls. The hands
of the nuns that inhabit the convent knead the dough for
the pececitos (little sh), delicious almond pastries. Their
recipe is a secret that is well-kept within the walls of the
convent, but this does not stop us from tasting them, for
they can be purchased at the convent or in pastry shops.
At the top of the villa we can visit the Cathedral of Tui, a
beautiful building that is a mixture of temple and fortress. Its
western gate is famous for being among the most beautiful
I
day 1
I
The charming villa of Tui welcomes us at the start of our journey
of Spanish Gothic architecture and provides unusual images
such as that of the Virgin Mary lying on a bed, representing
the Nativity. From this point we can see the basin of the Mio
river with all its luxuriant vegetation, with its river forests and
fertile valleys, dotted with orchards and large vineyards.
Eel or lamprey,
accompanied by wines from O Rosal
At dinner time, bear in mind that Tui is known to be
the capital do meixon (eel capital), with a gourmet food
festival on Easter Sunday. This delicacy is served in small
clay pots with the typical mollo (spicy sauce). The Mio
estuary also provides its famous lamprey or shad. The
wines of O Rosal, with Designation of Origin Ras Baixas,
are ideal companions for these dishes.
The walls of the convent of the Claire Nuns
hide the secret of the recipe
for pececitos,
delicious almond pastries typical from Tui
I
> Tui
I
> Boulevard Paseo da Corredoira. Tui
I
> Cathedral of Tui
55
52

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 53

The way of Saint James The Portuguese Way and the Way of Saint James by boat
I
day 3
I
From Redondela to Pontevedra
After rising early and having an energizing breakfast we are
ready to begin a new stage of the journey, which connects
Redondela with Pontevedra. We leave the town by passing
under the viaduct of Pontevedra, which follows one of
the models made popular by Eiffel. Not in vain is Redondela
known as the villa of the viaducts, that add to its charm
and that have seduced many illustrious gures; including
Lorca, who once said: I have travelled through a village that
fell out of heaven. After observing the baroque faade of
the chapel of Santa Maria and with the town behind us,
our path enters a forest and goes down to Setefontes.
We taste the oysters of Arcade
We walk into the municipality of Soutomaior through
Arcade, a town famous for the quality of its oysters, where
we can stop to taste them, accompanied with a few drops
of lemon. After a rest we go back to our path, that further
on crosses the historic bridge of Ponte Sampaio on the
river Verdugo, where a battle was held that caused the
French to retreat during the War of Independence. At A
Canicouva we cross an evocative cobbled path towards
Pontevedra and its sanctuary of the Pilgrim Virgin,
where this stage ends.
We stop for lunch in O Porrio
And nally we reach the town O Porrio, where we are
met by the chapel of San Benito, the church of Santa
Mara and the town hall, am astounding, capricious and
huge work by the architect Antonio Palacios, a native of
the town. We stop for lunch in the town, famous for its
bread with thick crust and abundant crumb that makes
the perfect companion for a dish of tripe, whose culinary
festival is held here at the end of summer.
We pass through Mos
and have a cuttlefsh (chocos) stew for dinner
in Redondela
After lunch and a rest we continue our route to the centre
of Mos, that we cross passing by the church of Santa
Eulalia, the Pazo of the Marquesses of Mos and the
polychrome stone cross of Os dos Cabaleiros (the two
knights) decorated with two lanterns. Then the road climbs
up to the Alto do Inxertado, passing next to the Roman
milestone of Vilar de Infesta and crossing the plateau
of Chan das Pipas.
From here onwards the itinerary coincides with the
N-550 road until we enter Redondela, where we nd
the convent of Vilavella and then we pass under the
eye-catching viaduct Pedro Floriani. For dinner we
can try the cuttlesh (chocos) stewed in their own ink
that are so popular in the town, which also offers good
accommodation, either in hostels, hotels or lodging
houses, or in excellent pazos and country guesthouses.
I
> Redondela
I
> Town Hall of O Porrio
I
> Pontevedra viaduct. Redondela
I
> Oysters
55

The way of Saint James 54

The way of Saint James The Portuguese Way and the Way of Saint James by boat
55
EXPERIENCE
I
day 4
I
We go out to sea in O Grove
On this day we will experience one of the oddest stages of
this pilgrimage; the one that reproduces the Translatio
of the Apostle Saint James. As it begins at the ria of Arousa
and follows a sea-river route, we will spend the morning
on a fun tour along the coast until we reach O Grove, the
boarding port for this maritime route
We visit the charming town of Combarro,
carved out of the rock
To reach O Grove we recommend taking some means of public
transport that will take us closer to the main points of interest
on this stretch of coastline of the Pontevedra estuary. The rst
stop will be in Combarro. It is a captivating town due to its
shing village architecture, its stone granaries, stone crosses
and its interesting location, sloping on the ria of Pontevedra
and carved out of the rock. We suggest following an itinerary
that leads from the Praza de San Roque square, in the old
quarter, up to the beach of Padrn. From there we get a
breathtaking panoramic view of the town, where we will see
about thirty raised stone granaries standing right by the sea.
O Grove, the seafood capital
After the visit we continue along the same road toward
O Grove, known as the seafood capital, where we
will arrive at lunchtime. The seafood restaurants that are
gathered around the harbour all display the delicacies in
their natural state or cooked, in pies, served in cocktails,
paellas or accompanied by juicy sauces.
We can have dinner and stay the night
at the monastery of San Xon de Poio
Another essential place to visit is the monastery of San
Xon of Poio, about three kilometres from the city,
in the nearby town of Poio and located on a beautiful
hill that dominates the estuary. There are many art and
bibliographic treasures kept in this building, whose origins
date back to the 6
th
century. As pilgrims, do not miss the
huge mosaic The Way of Saint James, by the Czech artist
Antoine Machourek. Also, the monastery has a hostelry
where to dine and sleep.
The old quarter of Pontevedra
is one of the best preserved in Galicia
You will see that Pontevedra has plenty to offer and we
encourage you to stroll through the streets of its old
quarter, which boasts being amongst the most beautiful
and best preserved in Galicia. Its inns, taverns and
restaurants provide good products from the ria and wines
with Ras Baixas Denomination of Origin.
If its a nice day we recommend you take a stroll along the
banks of the river Lrez that will lead you to the marshes
of Alba, catalogued as a Community Interest Site, or up
to the island of sculptures, or Illa das Esculturas, that can
be accessed through a number of bridges and walkways.
Here you will not only nd works of art with the common
denominator of granite, but you will also mingle with the
locals, who enjoy this area to play sports, read, walk or
have picnics. The water games of ducks, swans, herons
and kingshers will entertain you during your stroll.
But if the weather does not permit it, nothing beats nding
shelter in the Naval Rooms of the Provincial Museum. In
the Numancia Chamber you will be surrounded by the life-
like feeling of being in Spains rst armoured ship.
I
> Praza da Lea square. Pontevedra
I
> Monastery of San Xon de Poio
I
> Monastery of San Xon de Poio
I
> Combarro
I
> Santuario da Peregrina. Pontevedra
55
56

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 57

The way of Saint James The Portuguese Way and the Way of Saint James by boat
We reach Santiago de Compostela
The old medieval road leaves the ruins of the archiepiscopal
castle of A Rocha Vella on one side and then reaches the
neighbourhood of A Choupana, now near the chapel of Santa
Marta, in the centre of the city of Santiago de Compostela.
We continue along the avenue of Rosala de Castro and
Xon Carlos I, leaving the Alameda to the left. We enter
the old quarter through the Porta Faxeira, one of the
seven gates to enter the citys medieval wall that today no
longer exists. We cross the Ra do Franco, one of the most
lively streets in the old quarter, where a large number of
restaurants are located and that show the good quality
Galician products, mainly meat, sh and seafood by the
entrance in sh tanks and refrigerated showcases.
We end the journey at the Praza do Obradoiro square,
seeking the rewarding sight of the cathedrals faade and
its towers in all their splendour. The evening light will give
a special aura to the snapshot that no pilgrim should miss
taking with the majestic temple in the background. For
dinner we recommend checking out some of the many
nearby restaurants. In addition to hostels, Santiago also
offers a wide range of quality accommodation.
I
day 5
I
From Padrn to Santiago de Compostela
We imitate the Traslatio on board a
catamaran, from O Grove to Pontecesures
The catamaran that travels The Way of Saint James Route of
the Sea of Arousa and River Ulla, emulating the Translatio
leaves the port in the afternoon, recreating a legendary journey
like the one carried out by the disciples of the Apostle Saint
James, transporting his remains in a stone boat from Jaffa
(Palestine) to Iria Flavia (Padrn).
We sail the wide ria of Arousa, with varied landscapes that
provide stunning views of beaches, coves, capes, islands, towns
and shing villages. Towards the mouth of the Ulla we graze the
banks of the archipelago of the Malveiras, where we nd the
rst of the stone crosses that constitute the marine Via Crucis to
Pontecesures, the town located upstream, while we leave the
pastures of Lestrove and the meadows of Lao behind us.
We continue following
the trail of this legend in Padrn
On the other side of the great stone bridge of Pontecesures is
Padrn. Here you will be able to follow the trail of this legend
in the neoclassical church of Santiago, whose interior
houses the Pedrn, an ancient Roman altar that, according
to legend, the stone boat which carried the remains of the
Apostle Saint James was moored to. In the area of the Paseo
do Espoln you must nd the fountain of O Carmo to discover
a beautiful stone relief of the Translatio.
After breakfast we begin the nal stage of the Portuguese
Way between Padrn and Santiago de Compostela. At the
exit of the villa a sculpture represents a pilgrim walking.
This is the starting point for a stage that leads almost
in a straight line to A Escravitude where its magnicent
baroque sanctuary with artistic towers and staircase are
worth highlighting. Inside is an altarpiece painted in gold
with images and murals.
After a stretch of forest the route crosses the railroad
tracks at the hamlet of Angueira de Suso and we head
down to the street Ra de Francos, decorated with a gothic
stone cross. A detour leads to the ruins of Castro Lupario,
home to the legendary Queen Lupa (the Wolf queen) who,
according to the tradition of The Way, offered the oxen
to pull the cart carrying the remains of the Apostle to his
place of burial.
We pass a series of little villages such as Osebe, Casalonga,
Pedreira, each increasingly more populated, until we
reach O Milladoiro, a town that provides a wide range of
services and where we can stop for lunch. After resting
we continue our journey towards Agro dos Monteiros,
from where we get the rst glimpse of the towers of the
Cathedral of Santiago.
Queen Lupa
offered the oxen to
pull the cart that would
transport the remains of the Apostle
I
> Padrn
I
> Pontecesures
In Caldas de Reis we can enjoy
its thermal springs
If you still have some time left in the evening we propose
taking some means of transportation to Caldas de Reis,
famous for its thermal springs. This is a good way to round
off the day by relaxing in its spas, enjoying the benets of
its mineral-medicinal waters or signing up for a repairing
massage. If before returning to Padrn to spend the night
you decide to dine at Caldas de Reis, try its exquisite
lamprey pie or the trout from the river Umia, with a roscn
(sponge cake ring) for dessert.
55
58

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 59

The way of Saint James The Portuguese Way and the Way of Saint James by boat
I
day 7
I
The fresh produce market and
its paisanas (peasant women)
We cannot say farewell to Santiago without visiting its fresh
produce market in action. It is the citys main market and
the most traditional. We encourage you to explore all the
aisles of this magnicent stone building, where your senses
will be ooded by countless aromas, colours and sounds.
The shopkeepers will continuously invite you to check the
quality of their products.
One of its most unusual features is the gure of the paisanas
(peasant women) that still survives, selling the products from
their vegetable gardens, honey from their hives, eggs from
their hens and even live chickens from their coops. The most
famous are the pementeiras (green pepper sellers) from Padrn.
In addition, within the market premises some restaurants
prepare the products we have purchased for us to eat.
The cathedral and its spectacular surroundings
After breakfast we will rst explore the historic old quarter,
declared World Heritage Site in 1985. We recommend you
postpone the visit to the interior of the cathedral until
the hour of the Pilgrims Mass. Meanwhile, you can take
some time to carefully observe the various facades of the
temple and visit its surrounding squares and streets to
better appreciate their beauty and artistic value.
At the stroke of noon with the deep C tone of A
Berenguela, the largest bell of the cathedral tower
housed in its Clock Tower, we will head to the interior
of the temple. In order to embrace the Apostle we must
climb up to the shrine of the main altar, where his efgy
is located. Then we can go down to the crypt and stop
for a moment before the silver urn where the remains of
the Apostle and his disciples Theodore and Athanasius are
said to be kept.
On certain liturgical dates the botafumeiro, a giant censer,
swings in the transept of the cathedral, almost touching
the vault. Thick incense mist oods the atmosphere with
its scent and magic and provides images and sensations
that we will not easily forget.
The park of Bonaval with its desecrated
cemetery will astound us
At lunchtime we can choose a restaurant, inn, steakhouse,
seafood restaurant or tavern, for Santiago has all this to
offer. We will spend the afternoon strolling through the
citys green areas. We recommend heading up to San
Domingos de Bonaval, from where well get fantastic
views of the city and where we nd a desecrated cemetery
whose charm and special acoustics make it an ideal stage
for occasional musical performances.
I
day 6
I
A day in Santiago, among stones and gardens
Tradition and modernity face-to-face
On one side of the way up to Bonaval Park is the Museo
do Pobo Galego (Museum of the Galician People), which
houses the most important collection of Galician culture
and ethnography. Inside you can marvel at the famous
triple spiral staircase, designed by Domingo de Andrade,
a masterpiece of harmony and balance. On the other side
is the Centro Galego de Arte Contempornea, which in
addition to its content is also interesting because of the
building itself, by the Portuguese architect lvaro Siza.
After dinner we must not miss Santiagos nightlife. We
can have a quiet drink in one of its classic pubs and
stroll along its streets, which are captivating when the
yellow light of the streetlights caresses the stones on the
pavement and buildings.
I
> Centro Galego de Arte Contempornea - Galician contemporary art centre
I
> Porta Faxeira. Santiago
I
> Fresh produce market. Santiago
61

The way of Saint James
day 2
I
Arza
9_ Fervenza das Hortas
10_ Museo Vivente do Mel (Live Honey Museum)
11_ Reservoir of Portodemouros
O Pino
12_ O Pedrouzo
Santiago de Compostela
13_ A Lavacolla
14_ Monte do Gozo
15_ Old quarter
66
EXPERIENCE
START_
A Fonsagrada
END_
Santiago de Compostela
DAYS_ 4
FURTHER INFORMATION_
> Fonsagrada Regional Museum. Tel_ 982 340 507
> Hostel of O Cdavo (Baleira). Tel_ 982 354 057
> Museo Vivente do Mel (Arza)_ www.abelleiro.com
> Cathedral of Santiago_ www.catedraldesantiago.es
> Fresh Produce Market (Santiago)_ www.mercadodeabastosdesantiago.
com
The Primitive Route in 4x4
The Primitive Route in 4x4
e propose a thrilling experience on a 4x4
to travel the Primitive Way to Santiago, the
most ancient and legendary route that leads
up to the city of the Apostle Saint James.
We will take the 4x4 through trails that cross
pine forests on the high eastern mountains
of Galicia, which will treat us to spectacular
landscapes. Trails blocked by watercourses
will test the drivers skill at the wheel,
increasing the thrill of the experience.
W
day 3
I
Santiago de Compostela
16_ Cathedral
15_ Old quarter
17_ Alameda - tree-lines boulevard
18_ Park of Bonaval
day 4
I
Santiago de Compostela
19_ Fresh Produce Market
day 1
I
A Fonsagrada
1_ Town of A Fonsagrada
2_ Fonsagrada Regional Museum
Baleira
3_ O Cdavo
Begonte
4_ Baamonde
Friol Guitiriz
Curtis
5_ Teixeiro
Sobrado dos Monxes
6_ Monastery of Santa Mara de Sobrado
7_ Lagoon of Sobrado
Arza
8_ Town of Arza
O Pino
Touro
Boqueixn
Sarria
Melide
Guntn
Portomarn
O Pramo
Lncara
Baralla
O Corgo
LUGO
Becerre
Monterroso
Toques
Vedra
Boimorto
Vila de
Cruces
Palas de Rei
Serra do
Caren
A Marronda
Ro Ulla
Sigeiro
Frades
Santiso
Nadela
A Proba
Ro Tambre
Oroso
Guitiriz
Aranga
Tordoia
Ordes
Castroverde
Pol
Meira Cospeito
Rbade
Begonte
Friol
Mesa
Abegondo
Carral
Cesuras
Curtis
Oza dos
Ros
Outeiro de Rei
Casto de Rei
3
4
5
1-2
6-7
A Fonsagrada
Baleira
Sobrado
dos Monxes
9-11
13-14
15-19
8
12
Arza
Santiago
de Compostela
AC-412
AC-413
AC-240
AC-234
AC-233
AC-231
AC-461
AC-224
AC-840
LU-170
LU-111
LU-232
LU-234
LU-760
LU-750
LU-751
LU-740
LU-231
LU-612
LU-710
LU-722
LU-723 LU-622
LU-631
N-550
PO-905
PO-260
PO-840
N-525
N-547
N-640
C-630
C-641
N-540
N-634
C-535
N-634
A-6
N-VI
E-70
AP-9
AP-53
AG-59
66
62

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 63

The way of Saint James The Primitive Route in 4x4
We rest in O Cdavo
and have lunch in Baamonde
Some time before mid-morning we jump back into the
4x4 and leave A Fonsagrada to tour the territory of this
municipality while heading to O Cdavo, always along trails
that are authorised for our type of vehicle. The land is hilly
with sloping landscapes and contrasting heights between
the valleys and peaks.
In this area we can enjoy spectacular mountain landscapes.
The roads blocked by the watercourses caused by the
water will test the mechanics of our car, adding thrill to the
experience. They are not easy to see, but this area is home to
wolves, wild boar and deer. It is easier to spot eagles, falcons
and other birds of prey.
Our rst stop to rest will be in O Cdavo, where there is a
modern hostel and where one of the stages of the Galician
Primitive Way ends. It is said here that a legendary battle took
place where Alfonso II The Chaste defeated the Muslim armies,
opening the way to Compostela. Place names such as Campo
da Matanza (Slaughter Field) and several ndings of swords
and armour remains continue to feed the legend. Later, as we
descend to the area surrounding the capital of the province,
the landscape becomes more humanised. The road continues
to border Lugo. We can stop for lunch in Baamonde.
I
day 1
I
We set of from A Fonsagrada towards Arza
In A Fonsagrada we see what life in a mountain village is like
We recommend arriving the previous evening to A
Fonsagrada, Galicias largest municipality and also the
municipal capital with the highest altitude in the whole
autonomous community, standing nearly one thousand
meters above sea level. It is located at one end of the province
of Lugo, forming a mountain range that constitutes a natural
border with Asturias, with which it shares the Biosphere
Reserve River Eo, Oscos and Terras de Burn.
Its main access road is the LU-530, which connects it with
the provinces capital. In the town there are hotels and
lodging houses and a large number of country guesthouses
as well as some manor houses (pazos) where you can stay.
If you havent had dinner along the way, we recommend
tasting some of the rich local gastronomy, such as the
botelo, delicious traditional sausage made from pork ribs
seasoned with garlic and paprika, accompanied by boiled
potatoes, which are of excellent quality in this area. And,
for dessert, the tasty pie from A Fonsagrada, made with
almonds and custard.
We recommend getting up early to stroll through the village
before hopping on the 4x4s accompanied by the guide and
driver. You can visit the Fonsagrada Regional Museum,
next to the tree-lined avenue known as the Alameda, which
offers a good example of the ways of life and labour in a
typical mountain county. We will see the reproduction of
a cellar, a blacksmiths forge and a lareira, or traditional
Galician kitchen. There is also a section dedicated to
popular architecture that uses drawings, scale models and
photographs to show the materials, construction features
and types of houses typical of the area.
The botelo is a traditional
sausage made from pork ribs
I
> A Cortavella leisure area. Baleira
I
> A Fonsagrada
I
> A Fonsagrada
I
> Museo Comarcal - regional museum. A Fonsagrada
66
64

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 65

The way of Saint James The Primitive Route in 4x4
I
day 2
I
From Arza
to Santiago de Compostela
A 32-metre double waterfall
and a honey museum
When youre ready to go in the morning we suggest
visiting a beautiful natural site, very close to the village
of Dombodn. The Fervenza das Hortas is a waterfall
on the river Saimes, just before its meets the river Ulla,
with a 32-metre double-drop.
Nearby is the town of Portodemouros, where the Museo
Vivente do Mel (Live Honey Museum) is located. Here we
will discover how our ancestors farmed honey. Outside there
is a reproduction of an alvariza (hive) containing cortizos,
trobos and covos and a traditional larder. In contrast we will
see a modern apiary and inside we can follow the processes
for honey extraction, decantation and packaging. The shop
sells all types of products related to bees: honey, pollen, royal
jelly and even cosmetics. It will be mid-morning by the time
we nish the visit, so, weather permitting, we can go for a
swim in the nearby reservoir of Portodemouros.
In O Pino we taste roast or stewed rooster
In the stage of the journey Arza-O Pedrouzo and between
here and Santiago we can drive the 4x4 along wide and
accessible trails that run close to the historic route. We will
stop to have lunch at O Pedrouzo, in the municipality of O
Pino. Here the specialty is galo pieiro, a breed of indigenous
rooster that we can taste either baked or stewed. Its culinary
festival is held at the beginning of August.
Dust, mud, sun and rain
is The Way of Saint James.
Thousands of pilgrims
and over one thousand years
Fragment from an anonymous poem
written along The Way
We visit Sobrado dos Monxes and
end the stage in Arza
After a rest we go back on track, passing through trails that
cross beautiful indigenous oak and chestnut forests in the
area of Friol, on the way to Guitiriz. As we go down to
Teixeiro, the pine forests give way to pastures and their
inhabitants; cows, for this is a major milk-production area.
In the afternoon, the route, though quiet, is not exempt of
thrills, for we shall have to wade across one or two rivers in order
to reach our destination. Our rst stop will be in Sobrado dos
Monxes by mid-afternoon. We can take the opportunity to
visit the Monastery of Santa Maria de Sobrado, a National
Monument, founded over a thousand years ago. From here a
short walk leads us to the lagoon of Sobrado, surrounded by
meadows and dotted with pines and alders in a mountainous
and agricultural landscape of great beauty.
At the end of our visit, back in the 4x4, we pass close to
Arza to complete our journey and stay in any of its hotels,
lodging houses, or in the nearby tourist guesthouses, where
we can also dine or else we can choose any of the many
restaurants that the town has to offer.
I
> Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes
I
> Cloister of the Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes
I
> Live Honey Museum. Arza
67

The way of Saint James 66

The way of Saint James The Primitive Route in 4x4
66
EXPERIENCE
After breakfast we propose discovering the cathedral from
a different perspective, by climbing up to its rooftop. The
visit consists of a guided tour that includes two consecutive
itineraries. The rst one is the Pazo de Xelmrez, one of the
main civil works of Spanish Romanesque architecture and
centre of the feudal power that was exercised by the church
in Santiago. You will marvel at the great 32-metre long vault
in the Synodal Hall, whose corbels are decorated with scenes
from a lively banquet.
I
day 3
I
The jewels of the cathedral and the gardens of the old quarter
A surprising tour of the cathedrals rooftop
We then climb up the narrow stairs of the Palace tower to
tour the whole area of tiered rooftop, which offers a much
better understanding of the different ages of the cathedral
and their respective styles. But the greatest sensation will be
to have the towers, domes and spires of the cathedral at our
ngertips and to see the citys rooftops all the way across to
the surrounding hills.
From the Monte do Gozo we can get a glimpse
of the towers of the Cathedral of Santiago
In the afternoon we hop back into the 4x4 and begin a route
that passes near A Lavacolla and brings us closer to Monte
do Gozo, a small hill from where pilgrims can see the towers
of the cathedral for the rst time. Since Holy Year 1993 the
area has been upgraded and it is now equipped with all
types of services for pilgrims: shelters, a hotel, a restaurant
and cafs. To feel the pilgrim atmosphere before reaching
Santiago, this is the ideal place.
Tapas dining in the typical streets of
Santiagos old quarter
We reach Santiago de Compostela in the evening, so we have
to postpone the visit to the cathedral until the following day.
However, we can enjoy strolling through the lively streets of
the historic old quarter and mingle with pilgrims, university
students, tourists and locals.
We recommend tapas dining in the streets of the old
quarter, where you will nd the typical Galician helpings
with the essentials from its cuisine: empanada (Galician
pie), octopus feira style, stewed meat (ao caldeiro), cockles,
mussels, raxo, zorza, Padrn green peppers, sardines (xoubas),
and even pigs ear. Do not miss tasting the Tarta de Santiago
(almond cake) for dessert, as well as the wines from Galicias
different denominations of origin. As for accommodation,
the city holds numerous hotels to suit all tastes and needs.
I
> Fonseca
I
> Santiagos typical almond cake
I
> Hostal dos Reis Catlicos - hotel
66
68

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 69

The way of Saint James The Primitive Route in 4x4
I
day 4
I
We say farewell to Santiago at
the fresh produce market
As a nal farewell to the city, a visit to the Fresh Produce
Market is an enriching experience, since it is a lively place
where you can mingle with the locals and nd everything
that Galicias sea and land produces. Fresh sh and seafood
from the ria, excellent meat, cheese, honey, owers and
even live chickens and other farm products in the market
gardens close to the city are sold in this square. The markets
premises hold many restaurants that offer to prepare the
products we have just purchased at a reasonable price.
From the Alameda (tree-lined boulevard) to
the Park of Bonaval
An option for the afternoon is discovering the parks and
gardens of the old quarter. The most popular is the Alameda,
the citys lung. The boulevard Paseo dos Lens provides
the best views of the cathedral, especially with the light of
the setting sun. Camellia trees, giant eucalypti, ancient oaks,
sculptures, fountains and even some churches will entertain
us during our tour.
The Park of San Domingos de Bonaval, located on the western
slope of Monte da Almciga, offers another splendid view of
the city. As we climb up the hillside we begin to see buildings
and their rooftops. This park has unique and beautiful sites,
such as a desecrated cemetery, which because of its special
acoustics and atmosphere is sometimes used as a venue for
musical performances.
In the evening we suggest grabbing dinner and trying any of
the dishes created by the chefs of the new Galician cuisine in
any of the citys signature restaurants.
We embrace the Apostle and visit his relics
We enter the temple through the Praza do Obradoiro,
with the impressive baroque facade presided over by the
Apostle Saint James portrayed as a pilgrim with cape and
staff. We climb up the double exterior staircase and inside
we are met by the magnicent view of the gate Prtico da
Gloria, a masterpiece of Spanish Romanesque sculpture.
Again the Apostle Saint James is portrayed in the mullion,
where halfway up we also nd the sunken handprints of
pilgrims in the marble. There are many treasures and rites
kept within the cathedrals walls. One of the main rites is
embracing the Apostle when climbing up to the shrine by
the main altar. We can also stop to visit his relics, kept in a
silver urn in the crypt below the main altar.
We try the fsh and seafood
from the Galician rias
It will be almost lunchtime when we nish the visit, so on
the second day we suggest tasting the excellent sh stew
(caldeirada), prepared Galician style (with olive, oil and
paprika) and seafood from the Galician rias, steamed, grilled
or accompanied by different sauces, which we can enjoy in
the restaurants or seafood restaurants that line the streets
Ra do Franco, Raa and other neighbouring streets.
I
> San Lourenzo chestnut grove
I
> Park of Bonaval
I
> Fresh produce market
71

The way of Saint James
day 1
I
Vern
1_ Parador
Monterrei
2_ Monterrei castle
Vern
3_ Casa do Asistente - house
day 2
I
Trasmiras
4_ Village of Trasmiras
5_ Church of Santa Mara de Zos
Xinzo de Limia
6_ Boado
7_ Xinzo de Limia
Vern
8_ Vilaza
9_ Pazos
day 3
I
Xinzo de Limia
7_ Town of Xinzo de Limia
Sandis
10_ Vilario das Poldras Couso de Limia Sandis
Allariz
11_ Augas Santas
Ourense
12_ Old quarter
13_ Fountain of As Burgas
14_ Cathedral
Cenlle
15_ Laias spa
day 4
I
Amoeiro
16_ San Paio de Bveda
Vilamarn
17_ Tamallancos
18_ Sobreira
19_ Manor house of Vilamarn
San Cristovo de Cea
20_ Faramontaos
21_ Biduedo
Ribadavia
22_ Town of Ribadavia
23_ Jewish quarter
24_ Counts of Ribadavia castle
Leiro
25_ San Clodio
Cenlle
15_ Laias spa
day 5
I
San Cristovo de Cea
26_ Town of Cea
27_ Monastery of Santa Mara a Real de Oseira
Dozn
28_ Alto de San Domingos
Vila de Cruces
29_ Town of Vila de Cruces
77
EXPERIENCE
START_
Vern
END_
Santiago de Compostela
DAYS_ 7
FURTHER INFORMATION_
> Vern Parador. Tel_ 988 410 075
> Laias Spa (Cenlle). Tel_ 988 280 409
> Monastery of Oseira (San Cristovo de Cea)_ www.mosteirodeoseira.org
> Bread from Cea_ www.pandecea.org
> Collegiate Church of Sar (Santiago)_ www.colegiatadesar.com
Wine-drinking along the Va da Prata
Wine-drinking along
the Va da Prata
his specic pilgrimage combines the
captivating Galician landscapes of the Va
da Prata with the wealth of the wine lands
it crosses. Stone manor houses, towers
and fortresses, monasteries and churches
are there to greet us, together with wine
cellars with up to three of the ve wine
denominations of origin that exist in Galicia.
We will discover and enjoy the excellent local
wines that they produce.
T
day 6
I
Boqueixn
30_ Lestedo
Santiago de Compostela
31_ A Susana
32_ Paradela
33_ Ra da Ponte do Sar - street
34_ Collegiate church of Sar
35_ Castrn Douro
36_ Santo Antonio - fountain
37_ Old quarter
38_ Mazarelos - arch
39_ Praza da Universidade - square
40_ Costa de Xelmrez
41_ Praza das Prateras - square
42_ Praza do Obradoiro - square
43_ Cathedral
44_ Ra do Franco - street
37_ Old Quarter
45_ Tree-lined boulevard (Alameda
46_ Park of Bonaval
37_ Old quarter
day 7
I
Santiago de Compostela
47_ Cathedrals rooftop
48_ Preguntoiro - street
49_ Praza de Cervantes - square
50_ Acibechera - street
51_ Fresh Produce Market
37_ Old quarter
I
> Monastery of San Clodio
Touro
A Estrada
Forcarei
Cuntis
Moraa
Cerdedo
A Lama
Beariz
Ponte
Caldelas
Fornelos
de Montes
Cenlle
Ton
Meln
A Caiza
O Covelo Mondariz
Crecente
Cortegada
Cartelle
A Merca
Taboadela
Ramirs
Celanova
Allariz
Maceda Montederramo
Esgos
Coles
Dozn
Sober
A Peroxa
Bande
Lobeira
Muos Baltar
Cualedro
Sarreaus
Laza
Entrimo
Ponteareas
Salceda de
Caselas As Neves
Arbo
Carballeda
de Avia
Rairiz de
Veiga
Vilar de
Barrio
Calvos de
Randn
Baos de
Molgas
Monforte
de Lemos
Castro
Caldelas
Redondela
PORTUGAL
Mos
O Carballio
Maside
Silleda
Laln
Sarria
Melide
Guntn
Portomarn
O Pramo
Monterroso
Agolada
Taboada
Rodeiro
Chantada
Bveda
Vedra
Teo
Campo
Lameiro
Palas de Rei
Serra do
Caren
Ro Ulla
Ro Tmega
Serra do
Candn
Serra do
Cando
Santiso
1&3
4-5
12-14
31-51
22-24
8
9
10
11
15
25
16
17
18 20
21 26
27
28
30
29
19
6
7
Vern
Trasmiras
Xinzo de
Limia
2
Monterrei
Sandis
OURENSE
Amoeiro
Vilamarn
San Cristovo
de Cea
Ribadavia
Leiro
Vila
de Cruces
Boqueixn
Santiago de
Compostela
AC-240
AC-905
OU-902
OU-212
OU-536
OU-110
OU-304
OU-540
OU-411
LU-612
LU-611
LU-546
LU-201
LU-212 N-525
N-541
N-550
N-559
N-525
N-640
N-540
N-120
PO-840
PO-222
PO-232
PO-234
C-531
PO-252
PO-201
C-535
C-546
AP-53
AG-59
A-52
AG-31
77
72

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 73

The way of Saint James Wine-drinking along the Va da Prata
I
day 2
I
From Vern to Xinzo de Limia
After breakfast we continue towards the village of Trasmiras,
set in the region of A Limia, and from there we begin the
walk along the stage of the Va da Prata that leads to Xinzo
de Limia. We pass the village of Zos, where we nd the
lovely doorway with three archivolts of the church of Santa
Mara, that still preserves its entire Romanesque structure
and the south gates original tympanum.
Next comes Boado. As we walk we discover a landscape
with great ecological value and that serves as shelter to many
birds, whereby it is not uncommon to nd stork nests or
other bird nests. We arrive in Xinzo de Limia at lunchtime.
In this town we can taste our way through delicacies such as
the excellent lacn con grelos (pork shoulder with greens)
or beef, lamb or kid, as always nicely accompanied by the
famous potatoes with Denomination of Origin that are
produced in the region.
We visit several wince cellars with
Denomination of Origin Monterrei
After a rest we return to the area surrounding Vern to discover
some of the wineries with Denomination of Origin Monterrei,
their vineyards and their wine production process. In the village
of Vilaza we can stroll through the vineyards of treixadura
grapes and will learn to distinguish the godello grape variety,
touching the vines, the leaves and the grapes. Then we taste
their wines. And in the village of Pazos we visit another of
the wineries representing the denomination and its vineyards,
which spread out over the valley with a mountain backdrop
and watched over by the fortress of Monterrei. At the end of
the tour you can have dinner at one of the towns inns where
the specialty is the barbecued meat.
We recommend arriving in Vern in the afternoon. This
is a villa of legendary entroidos (carnivals), in the valley
of the river Tmega and in the districts capital. It is one
of the main towns in the province of Ourense, close
to Portugal, located on one of the turnoffs along the
Southeast Way-Va da Prata. The villa offers a wide range
of accommodation, boasting the Parador, at the foot of
the medieval fortress of Monterrei. Both are signposted
on the N-525, the road that brings us to the town and that
can also be accessed from the A-52.
After settling in at our chosen accommodation we can visit
this acropolis, Galicias largest according to many authors
and that for 800 years has watched over the frontier with
neighbouring Portugal and dominates the valley. From the
Parador we can go uphill by foot, which is the best way of
observing the triple wall and all the buildings of the imposing
fortress, built between the 12
th
and 17
th
centuries.
I
day 1
I
The Way starts in Vern,
a town reigned by the castle of Monterrei
In the parade ground we nd the so-called green well,
surrounded by legends of indelities and suicides, such
as that of the wife of Peter the Cruel. Do not miss the
opportunity to climb up the Homage Tower, an impressive
22-metre high stone structure, offering a view of several
kilometres of landscape dotted with vineyards, orchards,
small villages and Vern at its feet.
For dinner, octopus feira style,
cod or androlla (sausage)
At the end of the itinerary, we come down from the villa. If
you love heraldry you will be impressed by the coat of arms
that decorates the facade of the house Casa do Asistente,
next to the bridge that crosses the river Tmega. At dinner
time we recommend its famous octopus feira style, the cod
or the delicacies resulting from the slaughter of the pig, such
as the androlla a sausage typical from the area. We can
accompany the meal with wine from the Denomination of
Origin Monterrei.
I
> Castle of Monterrei
I
> Casa do Asistente - house. Vern
I
> Parish church of Vern
77
74

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 75

The way of Saint James Wine-drinking along the Va da Prata
We end the day relaxing at the Laias spa
In addition to its wine culture, the lands of O Ribeiro are
also rich in thermal spas. To take advantage of both we can
move on to Laias, in the municipality of Cenlle, where we
can also nd accommodation. A perfect way to spend the
rest of the afternoon is relaxing in the spa, surrounded by
the river landscape of the Mio river and we can round off
the day with a nice dinner accompanied by wines with
Denomination of Origin O Ribeiro. To spend the night we
can stay in the spa or return to Ourense, that offers a wide
and varied range of hotels and lodging houses.
I
day 3
I
From Xinzo de Limia to Ourense
After breakfast we walk a new stage of the Va da Prata,
beginning at Xinzo de Limia. From here we will walk the
stretch that crosses the town and the villages of Vilario
das Poldras, Couso de Limia and Sandis, where we can
climb up to the nearby tower that stands over an ancient
settlement (castro) that was located at the foot of Lagoa de
Antela, a lagoon that is now dry.
A wide panoramic view dominates the plains that are
covered by potato plantations and small rural nuclei in the
area that was formerly part of the lagoon. We get a glimpse
of the towers of A Pena and A Porqueira, high up in the
mountains. Originally they were four towers and it is said
that they were connected by passageways, where, according
to the elders of the town, there are dark dungeons.
In Augas Santas we taste its typical sheeps
cheese and cofee liqueur
We end the tour in the village of Augas Santas, close to Allariz,
where we nd one of Galicias loveliest old quarters and the
perfect place to grab a bite. We suggest ordering dishes that
include the best of the territorys rich gastronomy, beginning
with an entree of Queixo do Rexo (sheep cheese) and local
sausages. Dont miss the delicious empanadas (Galician
pies) For dessert let yourself be seduced by the almendrados
(almond pastries), the famous Torta Real (cake) or the typical
melindres (biscuits) accompanied by the delicious locally
made coffee liqueur.
We head towards Ourense,
Galicias thermae capital
An excellent plan for the afternoon is taking some means
of transportation to Ourense, to visit the thermae capital of
Galicia and stroll through its old quarter. One of its symbols
is the fountain of As Burgas, from where smoky medicinal
water springs at 67 degrees from the spout of its neo-classical
fountain. We can ll a bottle with water to take home with
us, like the locals do. A legend fosters two versions about the
spring: one says that it comes from a volcano that rests under
the city and another that it is located below the chapel of the
Holy Christ, in the cathedral, which is a must-see.
I
> Augas Santas
I
> River Arnoia. Allariz
I
> Centro Cultural Marcos Valcrcel - culture centre. Ourense
I
> As Burgas - hot springs. Ourense
I
> Tower of A Pena. Xinzo de Limia
I
> Entroido - carnival. Xinzo de Limia
77
76

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 77

The way of Saint James Wine-drinking along the Va da Prata
We have lunch in Ribadavia,
wine capital of O Ribeiro
At lunchtime we recommend hiring some means of
transportation to get to Ribadavia, the wine capital of the
Ribeiro wine Denomination of Origin. There are interesting
wine cellars with restaurant that serve ne wines from the
local denomination to accompany the menu. For dessert
we suggest trying some tasty Jewish sweets from the old
Jewish quarter.
This villa is rich in art and history. An interesting visit are
the ruins of the castle of the Counts of Ribadavia, where
the greatness of one of Galicias most important fortresses
can be perceived.
I
day 4
I
First part of the stage San Paio
de Bveda-Carballeda
We visit the Pazo de Vilamarn
After breakfast we continue our own special pilgrimage
by completing the rst part of the stage San Paio Boveda-
Carballeda. From San Paio, in the Ourense municipality of
Amoeiro, we continue to Tamallancos and Sobreira.
Here we can take a detour to visit the Pazo de Vilamarn,
whose structure is that of a castle-fortress. It is located
in a completely rural environment, next to the village of
Fondevila, on a hill inside a large estate. Entrance is free
and we can even access the turrets. Inside, one of the most
interesting elements is the traditional Galician kitchen,
or lareira, with a huge smoke stack resting on two pillars
with moulded capitals. After the visit we continue to
Faramontaos or Biduedo, if we are up to it.
We tour a wine cellar
and sign up for a spa session
We can round off the afternoon by discovering one of the
wineries with the local wine denomination, San Clodio,
in the geographical birthplace of these wines, in the
neighbouring municipality of Leiro. We will have the chance
to stroll through its large vineyards of treixadura vines and
then taste its wines. After the visit we round off the day
signing up for a thermal spa session or massage at the Laias
spa before dinner.
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> Pazo de Vilamarn - manor house
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> San Francisco. Ribadavia
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> Jewish quarter. Ribadavia
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> Spa of Laias
77
78

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 79

The way of Saint James Wine-drinking along the Va da Prata
We discover the vineyards by the riverbanks
of the Ulla, land of grape eau-de-vies
We propose discovering how wines and liqueurs are processed
in the valley of the river Ulla a land of great tradition in
grape eau-de-vie and quite close to Santiago at a wine
cellar with Ras Baixas Denomination of Origin, in the
municipality of Vila de Cruces. We suggest having lunch at
one of the several country guesthouses that offer good cuisine
and accommodation for the night. We can request that they
prepare their famous baked farmhouse rooster for us.
Good cuisine goes hand in hand with spectacular landscapes
carved by water and it is no wonder that these lands are
part of the River Network Ulla-Deza . After a rest we move
on to the riverbanks of the Ulla to get to know its vineyards
and learn more about the real granite viticulture , known
as such because of the composition of this soil, where the
albaria grape also grows.
At the end of the visit we return to the rural
accommodation for dinner. We recommend fish, given
that this river basin is plentiful in salmon, although there
are also good trout and eels.
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day 5
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From Cea to Vila de Cruces
We taste the bread from Cea and the special
liqueur produced by the monks of Oseira
After a hearty breakfast we continue along the Va da Prata.
As a reference we can use the stage Biduedo-Carballeda, but
we suggest starting before that, in Cea, a town famous for its
bread that today boasts the protected geographical indication.
Pilgrims from long ago already sought shelter by the heat of its
ovens and then took their bun with them to nibble on along
the way. Today you can easily stock up on bread, for there are
many signs that lead to the towns bakeries.
The story of this bread runs parallel to that of the monastery
of Santa Mara a Real of Oseira. Back in the 13
th
century
the villa was the main supplier of bread in Galicia thanks to
the monks from the Cistercian monastery, that we can get
to from Cea. Its size, artistic value and its natural location,
between mountains, will amaze us. There we suggest you
try the Eucaliptine, a special liqueur made by the monks
out of eucalyptus leaves. At the end of the visit we go back
to the road and head towards Dozn and climb up towards
Alto de San Domingos or as far as we can make it.
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> Monastery of Santa Mara a Real de Oseira
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> Bridge in Ledesma, on the river Ulla
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> Bread from Cea
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> Chapter room. Monastery of Oseira
77
80

The way of Saint James EXPERIENCE 81

The way of Saint James Wine-drinking along the Va da Prata
We stroll through the citys gardens and go
wine-drinking in the old quarter
We spend the afternoon strolling around the monuments area.
We nd many buildings of different styles that can be visited.
And if what we really want is to be out in the open, Santiagos
gardens will delight us. The elegance of the nineteenth century
boulevard Paseo da Alameda or the spirituality of the park
of Bonaval are only a few of the many options that the centre
of city has to offer.
By evening we will have worked up an appetite. A very deep-
rooted tradition is to go to wine-drinking around the streets
of the old quarter, accompanying Galician wines with the typical
helpings or pinchos (bites) to suit all tastes.
Compostela as a World Heritage city, open and hospitable, has
a wide and varied range of accommodation. A lodging house
or a charming hotel in the old quarter can be a good option to
continue enjoying the city the following morning.
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day 7
I
We visit the cathedrals rooftop
After breakfast we propose going up to the rooftop of the
cathedral, which will offer us a whole new perspective of
the city; practically a birds eye view. Afterwards we can
venture around streets such as Preguntoiro, the Praza de
Cervantes square, Acibechera or even the Fresh Produce
Market if we want to do some last-minute shopping. To
round off the morning we can rest at one of the charming
cafs in the historic area.
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day 6
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From Lestedo to Santiago de Compostela
A Berenguela,
Cathedral of Santiagos Clock Tower bell,
calls to the Pilgrims Mass
at noon
After breakfast we will be prepared to walk the last
stretch of the Va da Prata. We start off at Lestedo, in the
municipality of Boqueixn, from where a little over ten
kilometres separate us from the Cathedral of Santiago. As
we walk we will leave the shadow of the Pico Sacro, focal
point of many Way of Saint James legends behind us.
Further on we cross the villages of A Susana and Paradela,
reaching Santiago de Compostela through the Ra da
Ponte do Sar, while to the left we see the Collegiate Church
of Sar. Its clearly visibly slanting walls are stunning. To really
get a good look you must visit its interior, where you will see
why there are thick buttresses on the outside, that were later
added to the building, between the 17
th
and 18
th
centuries.
We fulfl all the rites inside the cathedral and
grab lunch in the popular street Ra do Franco
In the interior of the cathedral we can full all the rituals
associated with the pilgrimage, such as the tradition of
embracing the Apostle or visiting his relics by going down
to the crypt below the main altar, where they are kept in a
silver urn. When we are through we will take a tour to see
the other cathedral facades and squares, all different and
extremely beautiful.
At lunchtime, the street Ra do Franco, that communicates
directly with the Praza do Obradoiro, is a showcase for
the best of Galicias cuisine: seafood and meat. And, for
dessert, the traditional Tarta de Santiago, a delight made
from almonds.
We then have to tackle the hill to Castrn Douro, a street
that is as beautiful as steep. We cross the Fonte de Santo
Antonio and enter right into the almond the old
quarter of Santiago through the Archway of Mazarelos,
the only gate of the medieval city wall that is still standing.
Behind the Praza da Universidade square, we go downhill
along Costa de Xelmrez and reach the Praza das
Prateras square, with multiple and varied stone treasures,
such as the Casa do Cabido or the Clock Tower. This
tower houses the cathedrals largest bell, the Berenguela,
that at noon announces the Pilgrims Mass. Then we go
down and turn the corner to the Praza de Obradoiro, the
longed-for destination for pilgrims.
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> Collegiate church of Sar
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> Cathedral. Prateras facade